Diario las Américas Newspaper, January 20, 1957, Page 22

ombia city clin Costumed Chirimia serenaders are Popayén holdover from the past. Above: Exquisite eighteenth century image ef Our Lady of Bethlehem, AT CHRISTMAS TIME in Popa- yan, the church is still far more important than the market place. The central thread of the birth of Christ has not been lost in the complex of local customs and Spanish traditions that make up the holiday celebrations, Deep in this paradisaic valley of the Colom- bian Andes all thirty-two thou- sand residents of the city’ parti- cipate in the month-long observ- ance — and much of it is pure, unadulterated fun. Families begin planning their pesebres, which are much like the Nativity Scenes or créches in other parts of the Hemisphere, during the first weeks of December. Some pesebres are small, with only a few simple figures depicting the manger scene, but most are quite elaborate. A hundred or more pieces may oceupy an entire reom. The figures may be carved, model- ed in clay, or made of plaster, cloth, erude rubber, paper, or ever plastic. ‘The stable with the Holy Family inside is always the focal point, but the entire cast of Wise Men, angels, shepherds, sheep, and eamels is usually present. In the large peseobres there are more Scenes and more characters; the most ornate include little villages, bridges, hills, carts, roads, and people, all put together with imag- inatien but sometimes with a hap- py disregard for scale or historical consistency. Figurines from other parts of the world, exotic animals, models of historical personages or legendary heroes dot the miniature ‘landscapes, which the children endlessly explore, finding birds hidden in tiny bushes and burros peeking from behind fences. Since these pesebres are family projects, everyone collects pieces for them, on visits to other countries, on va- cations, or wherever they happen to be. Moss is used to decorate the pe- sebres, and at about the same time the figures are taken from their storage places, women start selling It door-to-door. Many families go picnicking in the mountains and gather their own, plus lichens and small plants for additional coler. Finally the eye-catching display is ready to serve as the focus for the whole celebration and to be admir- ed by neighbors and friends. PAG. 10 published the Pan American Union in English, Spanish and Portu- guese, The Christmas season officially opens on December 16 with the no- vena, the nine-day ritual that pre- cedes the celebration of Chirst’s birth. Evenings young people gather at friends’ homes for an ob- servance that is a delightful com- bination of religious fervor and fiesta. They begin by singing three or four villancicos, the traditional Spanish carols, and then pray to- gether at the pesebre, The devo- tion ends with one of the older members reading the special pray- ers, and both parents and children adjourn to the street or patio te wave sparklers, shoot off Roman candles, and dodge exploding fire: erakers and whoosing rockets. When the noise has subsided and the children have been put te bed, the young people dance under the casual glances of their chaperones, until the fiesta ends with simple refreshments. Small parties are ‘held throughout the novena and people visit back and forth to watch the fireworks or stroll through the candle-lit churches ~ worship at the elaborate pese- es, Groups of wandering minstrels called Chirimias, which-today are popular only in Cauca Department lend a distinctive note to the Pe- payan Christmas season. They her-. ald the yuletide with a rumble of drums that rolls through the nar- row, dimly lit streets and sets the children running toward the sound. The word chirimia actually refers to an ancient sort of oboe or flag- eolet, which was originally the solo instrument of these groups. It has been replaced by a flauta-de carri- £0, or cane flute, and the name has lingered on to designate the entire ensemble. Usually the flute is the only melodic instrument in the Chirimia and its shrill, rollicking notes pierce a solid curtain of rhy- thm from three or four large wood- en drums baten on the head and sides, maracas, two or three tri- angles, and guiros or carrascas, large striated gourds that are rasp- ed with sticks or bones. Most Chirimia groups. are made up of young boys who play in the streets for pennies. Often they are accompanied by a red?suite danc- er in a devil mask with horns and a fearsome hooked nose. He car- ries a small bag to collect the coins, wields a whip, and chases the neighborhood children who taunt him through grilled win- dows or dart boldly from behind the impassive musicians to shout “Diable, diablo” and rush away in- to the dark. Some adult Chirimias are rewarded with swigs of fiery aguardiente instead of pennies. Consequently, their music becomes more energetic and strident as the evening wears en. They usually end up morosely in front of some bar, trying dispiritedly to keep the flute player awake long. enough for one last tune. Special -games, associated only. with the yuletide, delight the children, though everyone joins in. These aguinaldes. — literally, “Christmas. -gifts” — are stylized Jokes with traditional names. Te play Pajita en Boca (Straw in Mouth), for example, am uncle gives his small nephew a straw, which he is supposed to keep in his mouth until the day after Christmas. Whenever they happen to meet, the straw must be in evi- dence. The uncle will ask surprise qustions, wich must not be ans: wered, and offer gifts, which must not be accepted. If the youngster can manage to pop the straw into his mouth the moment his uncle approaches, and if he is mot caught off guard by a trick question or gift, he will end up with a prize, Otherwise, he will have to pay a forfeit, anything from a small coin to a piece of candy or perhaps a kiss. The most exciting game of this kind — aguinaldes. gritados or “shouted Christmas gifts” — is ex- clusively for adults, Dressed as ghosts, pirates, Indians, and the like, they split inte two groups, One challenges the other to e night meeting on a certain street At the appointed time, corner. Rear view of old San Francisco Church. Religious theme maintaing: Primary importance in Popayén yuletide celebration... lice acai aiid HEMISPHERE SPITE T ee ao SUNDAY, JANUARY 20, 1957