Evening Star Newspaper, May 18, 1930, Page 49

Charming Fashions BY HELEN DRYDEN., E new mode gives spectator’ port clothes their full worth and makes of them a type of dressing, sufficlently chic unto itself. From their first branch- off from mother tree—sport | clothes, which consisted then of & sweater and a skirt—they went through varlous stages of semi-formal fashions. ‘The spectator aspect lent the excuse. but there was little, if any, application | to sport. Now clothes for spectator | sport play a dual role—active as well as pass And because of this very | practicality, they are far more in har- mony with the outdoor picture. The fashions for that activity called | spectator sport are charming this year. | With capes and flares and graceful lines | in general, we have costumes that are | original in design—and bring a chic and sophistication to any smart sport | gathering. They have a meaning, | economically speaking, for that is what | we demand of our clothes now. For all the decorative background they give to | the sport gallery—doff the coat or the | cape, and we find a dress that is ready | to get into the active picture. | o | F course there are suits, but the Jackets to them are oh, so different. Boleros, cutaway coats, sleeveless ones with capes, capes alone, sleeveless long | coats and many more that have just as | ‘much originality and style to recom- mend them. Sleeveless dresses with | circular skirts, free swinging and slen- der, have jackets. Contrasts, too, of many sorts achieve interest—different materials, another color or tone. You will see dresses alone, too, and many of them are as smart as they can be. But still the majority of spec- tator sport costumes add a coat or wrap of some sort—for the distinction that is found only in a complete en- semble. Featherweight woolens are a new | discovery—and a very fortunate one, | too. For they interpret the sport mode | faultlessly. Light in weight, they are | as cool and pliable as silk to the new | drapings and gracefulnesses we are | smartly addicted to. They are better adapted to the out-of-door, softly | tallored clothes—for these ' woolens | lend a character to sport clothes which | soft silkiness could never do. Some are in tweed patterns—and it seems peculiar that with all the femininity of this year's fashions we do so thoroughly subscribe to the rugged, mannish tweed patterns. The white- flacked weave is new—block patterns, knitted multi-color fabrics, one-color | basket-weaves, all o loosely woven, so | light in texture, that they are a part of the family called featherweight. R WXTH the coming of Summer there is always an attendant staff of cottons—and big things have been done in that quarter since we last saw them—and rough, silk fabrics. These bring a lighter color range into prom- inence—soft pastels and blocked prints that are gay in color. There is also & new sharkskin printed cotton material that is cleverly made up in a tailored sult. quite chic. ‘The best of designing for spectator rt achieves a certain dash—a dis- tinction that is very chic and at the same time very practical. Just a two- lece suit may follow the dictate of 'ashion faithfully, but to win honest acclaim a costume must have some touch of genius to make it outstanding. And 1f it is nct the cut and line, than which no more is needed for sleek sophistication, it 1s a color accent, in- troduced in some distinctive way. An unusual combination of color in your costume, a well planned accessory scheme, will do this to an ensemble. But don't run wild with color. Two 4n one ensemble are usually enough— and the simplest way is always the best. A clever girl last year used her dnr;ley browned skin as an accent, wore a sleeveless frock of chartreuse—a hat to match her tanned skin, a chartreuse band on her hat—and her shoes were the white and brown kind. And for all the simplicity of this, she was decidedly smart. So be careful and don't get teo thorough about color. Just one little trick well dmw—m' you have all the chic you need. * x * x 'HE buckskin shoe with contrasting leather trim and built-up wooden heel in ideally fitted for sport clothes— in their inactive moments. They are in the strap or pump type. Scarfs again enter the realm of fash- fop to add dash to many costumes, which they do, and well, too. Mateh a searf, 8 crushed hat band and a pocket book that sure touch - of ~style. ‘There is another combination—much heralded—of a bag, shoe, and beret in linen or tweed mixtures. s With Vinegar. Use vinegar in cakes when you wish to diminish the number of eggs—about a tablespoonful of vinegar for each egg. ‘The eggless cake is heavy, but the cak with one egg and one or two tabl spoonfuls of vinegar is light in texture. Add a little vinegar to the water in which eggs are poached to keep them from breaking. Add a few drops of it to ‘water for bolling eggs that seem to have thin shells to keep the shells from eracking. Add vinegar to the water in which fish is boiled to keep it white and firm. Don't add more than a tablespoonful of it to a kettleful of water. | Use vinegar to bleach the skin if it is spotted with stains from peeling mphl'u and potatoes, and similar kitchen Fair Beauties. Por centuries the ideal of feminine loveliness was the blonde. The angels in the Christian calendar, as well as the goddesses of Roman and Greek| mythology, were all depicted as blue- eyed and light-haired. 8o a beautiful woman was known as a “fair” woman. We find repeatedly in old books such expressions as “dark and ugly,” “fair- haired and beautiful” or “dark but besutiful,” and “plain in spite of her| light complexion,” showing quite clearly that once upon a time it was rather , difficult for a brunette to be rated as of first-class beauty. | Times have changed. To be beauti-| ful women no longer need be fair. Flowers Tak Posy on Gown and as| Motif for Jewelry Has Fashion’s Ap- proval— All Kinds of Materials Used in Making Accessories. E A POSY on the gown this Spring is worth ceveral in the garden! For there 18 no smarter-touch you ean add to your outfits than the right kind of flower. Nor should you stop at merely put- ting flowers on your gowns. You might tuek 8 sweet little spray of flowers into the side of your crin hat, or let a beautiful orchid trail along the wide brim of your garden chapeau. Moreover, choose your jewelry with the idea in mind that the floral motif there is just as important as flowers themselves in reality. Paris makes delectable colored necklaces this Spring that have their every link a flower. ‘There are also pendants in the flower motif. ‘Then there are those sweet little | jowerpot pins for the necks of soft hiffon gowns that you should notice, also. Some of them cleverly work in R ARNTES AN = NS RS S SR aamaRaSa= SN S . S S TS RN S e Very soft, pliable, knitted tweed is used for this sleevless frock with its matching ecardigan jacket. A drooping neck is flat- tering and, done in this woolen material, is graceful—not the least bit bulky. The skirt, of course, is circuler and set on an interestingly cut hip yoke. Remedying Defects of Chin Massage May Be Val- uable in Rounding and Softening to Pre- vent Lines Around Mouth and Folds Underneath—Plastic Surgery. BY CHARLOTTE C. WEST, M. D. ’I‘O those who love beauty of form| nothing about the human face is| more regrettable than defects of the| chin, whether congenital er aequired.| The jaws are the bony framework of the mouth. The most attractive jaw is the one that is symmetrically curved. When terminating in an oval chin, it is sig- nificant of normal strength and a taste | for art and beauty. The square jaw is a mark of strength and character. There are many variations from these types. When the jaw protrudes mark- edly, the beautiful lines of the face are destroyed. Disfiguring habits which call atten-! tion to the chin spoil the contour of the whole face. The bony framework of the chin is, of course, dependent upon that of the lower jaw, and there- fore to a large extent it is beyond our control, But here, too, unpleasant habits of thrusting out the ehin or of drawing it in, and so forming lines in | the soft tissue at its base, have much to do with the maturer development of | éms very prominent and important fea- ure. It is, after all, not so much a question | of a long or short chin or of a broad| or narrow chin as it is of the fleshy| | e First Place and when this is done you are doubly | smart. Your slippers, too, can ha summery and very feminine in their coloring and feeling. And of course, the flowers that bloom in your chiffon and even your linen handkerchiefs this Spring_proclaim it & year of many, niany blossoms. Pick your flowers carefully, in the first place, for there are trailing, deli- cate sweet peas, orchids, wild roses, anemones, and sweet alyssum for such fragiie costumes as chiffons, georgettes, organdle and laces. And there are sturdy blooms such as gardenias, pe- | tunias, nasturtiums, pansies and so on | for suits and coats. | You will find all kinds of materials | mlklng this season's flowers. Pique, silks, buttons, beads, painted leather, lacquered feathers and a multitude of other materials go into them. Very new is the suit that has a white grosgrain collar outside its little black or blue coat that ends in an immacu- late white gardenia at one side, prefer- ably the side that has the most hat flare, too. Very good, too, is the dress | that tucks a little flower or two at the | point of its V neck. For evening, if you are lucky, your best beau may send you a nosegay of sweetheart roses, lilies of the valley, orchids and fine ferns. Wear it at your waist, in very feminine manner, and you will be quite the styllff ‘lady this your monogram and some flowers, oo, season, | little | buckles of floral design that are light, | THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON Provided for The white polo coat is an ex- tremely sophisticated thing. Here is one of the best of them —with notched collar, double breasted, and fitted lines that are marvels of good tailoring. A coat such as this, for a top- coat for Summer sport uses is ideal, whatever the informal occasion. contour and the condition of the over- lying skin. chin itself can be rounded and softened by massage to pre- vent ugly lines around the mouth, and/| folds underneath that will develop into| a double chin later on. All habits that originate in acquired | faulty contour must be corrected, and | nothing seems so hopeless as overcom- | ing a fixed habit. Emphasizing one’s| speech with a downward thrust of the| chin, as in disapproval, depressing the chin instead of holding it up and rea- sonably forward, are habits sure to! break down the soft tissues, or in the obese to form a double and even a triple chin in later years. Vigorous massage to break up the super-pboundant tissue, with alternate applications of heat and cold. the latter in the form of ice rubbed into the parts, is extremely efficacious. ‘The chin belt is recommended &s a support when the tissues are relaxed. 1t also acts as a reminder that the chin must be held up and carried forward.| The rubber chin belt induces heat and | perspiration and acts as a reducing agent. The chin that is composed mainly of | fatty tissue can be wonderfully re-| modeled and reconstructed by means of | plastic_surgery. As a variation of this type of chin,’the soft, globose chin of infaney and immature development is usually small, round and receding. Un- less markedly deformed—in which case | bone grafting must he resorted to—very| little can be accomplished by other| means. The framework of the chin is com- posed of bone, and a well developed | chin should develop a fair share of this| material. The three systems, the body, | the muscular, and the vegetative, assist | in forming this feature. Many chins| that are “double” possess a long and | bony foundation. 1In these instances| cosmetic treatments yield very satisfac- tory results. The muscles of the chin are Inserted | into the lower jaw and are attached to the structures above. Therefore, pres- sure with the palms of the hands, al-| ternating with relaxation and always| with an upward lift, will restore the structures of the chin, removing lines and superfluous flesh, too. When, however, through years of neg- lect, actual age or long iliness, the neck | | has' become hopelessly old, wrinkled | {and sagging, nothing short of muscle| tightening at the hands of a competent operator will restore it to sightliness. It is well to stress the word ‘‘compe- tent,” for irreparable damage may fol- low unskillful work. (Copyright. 1930.) Vegctable Salads. Lemon jelly is a good foundation for many vegetable salads. A good tomato Jelly” is made by stewing two or three ripe, red tomatoes until a thick liquid results, and straining that through fine wire sieve—but not through cheese- cloth, as that keeps out the color—into lemon jelly that is still liquid. When it is cool it may be poured into a ring mold, into individual molds or into a | square pan. If in the square pan, it is |cut in even sized blocks when it is | ready to serve. Diced cucumbers are delicious in this Mixed fresh cooked vege- | tables also are good in this lemon-to- mato jelly. A mixture of either fresh | green ‘peas and diced carrots or string| beans and pickled beets is specially| good. These jellled vegetable salads should be served on lettuce, and usually preferred with mayonnaise dressing, ‘though some persons prefer French : tomato jelly. |inspection of childish treasure trov NN N N A two-piece suit of knitted ma- terial in a very smart tweed weave adds a chic lingerie touch in the pleated chiffon vestee. This is a practical sort of suit to have, for it plays @ dual role in your wardrobe— fine for motoring or traveling— equally well cast for the specta. “tor of sports, - MAY Spectator Sports Clothes There is a lot of style to the: knittad fabrics that have tweed patterns and they make the best of sport suits. Soft, pliable easily fitted to the figure, they adapt themselves perfeetly to new designing. The skirt and s jumper for active sport make good use of this new fabrie, Whether You Play or Watch Amvx and spectator sperts clothes are, as in the past, an all-important subject. are, above all else, practics Last year the sleevel this season at Palm Beach For active sports the clothes do not change 8¢ much. and made for real work. pique tennis dress was generally worn, but jorts” with’ a sleeveless top were the rage. ‘They Spectator clothes give more opportunity for variety as to cut, fabric and color, as this type of thing has never been so well designed as at present. The materials are too enchanting—both in weave and color—and the short cape is just about the smartest thing we have had in many a ‘Who can help becoming interested in moon. to the various events that are taking collection of really perfect clothes from which to choose? The sweet stay- at-home who does not know a tennis racquet from a the urge to dress up and step out to some local 3 And the accessories to go with these costumes!—have you ‘The shoes and bags, and the little rag of a hat that looks like in the hand, but you just wait till you get it on your head! Child Must Hide Treasures Chests and Cupboards Have Charm for Youngsters, Who| Like to Have Privi- lege of Using Lock and Key — Various Types. BY BETSEY CALLISTER. T is as natural for a child to hide away its treasures as it is for & squirrel to tuck nuts away in hollow stumps or bury them in the ground. A good many mothers make the mis- take of not giving their children definite | places where they may hide things | away. Even the smallest child of a | large family ought to have some sort of cupboard or ehest, bureau drawer or box where he may put his belangings and where they will be left without ob- vious disturbance from bothersome grown-ups. Doubtless it is necessary for nurse or mother to make some general sort of Melting milk choeolate or once-tooth- some bits of cooky might mingle un- suspected with the more harmless sort of treasures and become an attraction for mice and ants. The point is, however, that children like privacy of one sort or another, and | that, if you let them have some little | corner of the world for their very own, | they are far more likely to learn to re- | spect and take care of their possessions | than if they must always share shelves | and cupboards with others. There are some convenient boxes in some of the shops called tuck boxes— | unpainted, with padlocks and iron| hinges. These boxes are of the sort | used by En?“lh public school boys for | holding their personal sslons and | are sturdy and satisfactory as a hid- | ing place for any child’s most treas-, ured belongings. Then there are iron-bound and brass- bound treasure chests, sold specially for children. It is quite possible to imi- tate one of these by fitting a cover neatly to a well made box, fastening | it on with iron hinges, fastening a | padlock at the front and strengthen- ing the corners with iron braces. the smi irl & little cedar chest 16'n delight, fof the ¥lcy. fragrance it imparts to its contents is pleasing sports and wanting to go place, when she has this fascinating golf club, must feel ent. them? othing HELEN DRYDEN. and the chest itself is attractive to | young feminine eyes. ‘Then there are secretive little Chi- nese cabinets, with hidden panels and slides, that youngsters, both girls and boys, like. These are made in wood and lacquered metal, and may be of the daintiest sort for the little girl and ot a umfytng;unpllcny and stoutness for the small boy. o) Use of Articles As Gifts or Bribes ‘There are some parents who seem to think that there 1s a sort of moral weakness in giving presents to their children, save at Christmas and on birthday: Sometimes they explain by saying that to give a present out of sea- son” establishes a precedent.” They even frown upon indulgent relativs who never come to pay a visit without bringing some little toy or box of sweets. Then there are fathers and mothe who feel that it is all wrong to give present—just as a present. They maki their children work for their toys. Bobby is promised a bicycle if he gets good marks at school, Jennie is to have a new doll carrigge if she keeps her toys picked up for a month, Mary is to receive a much desired new book if she helps dress the baby sister every morn- ing. Stanley comes in early from play for months to set the. table for supper because that has been the price set upon the new express cart that he wants. Perhaps the idea is a good one. On the other hand, that, too, may be set- ting a precedent, and Jennie may leave her toys all over the house, Mary may neglect beby sister, Bobby may neglect his studies and Stanley may stoutly refuse to set the table when there are no visible rewards in sight. ‘There are some individuals who even in early®childhood learn the power that often lies in a well timed present. They know that a bunch of Spring flowers shyly laid on teacher's desk will help her to overlook the spelling lesson that has not been learned: and, afte there is less of hardship in_picking Spring flowers on a Summer’s day than sitting indoors over the apeller. There are husbands, who put much reliance in the power of a well chosen present. They buy the privilege of playing golf all day Saturday by coming home Friday night with a five- | pound box of candy, or & box of roses. (Gopyright, 1 Month really means “moonth” and ‘ Ijust Yenr’s Dresses | do with last season's clothes is to send | rial thus salvaged with a few yards of originally atood for the time from one full moon to the next. 18, 1930—PART THREE. 11 e o e 4 e Prominent in fashion for top coats in tweed, is this successful design. The searf is jaunty, is crossed and pinned or but- in cut, follow the line of the scarf. Below the leather belt the coat is and pleated. All in all, it strikes a note of ehic g in effect, an. . Cuffs, circular that is most effective. May Be Made Over ‘The only really satisfactory thing to them all packing to the nearest rum- mage sale. This season's clothes have made such a complete break with the past that one might as well try to feel up to date in a dress of 1920 as in one of 1929. But to discard everything that has not been bought within the past few months would be out of the ques- tion with most of us. Certainly there is no chance that short skirts will return to favor within| the next few seasons, and the low waist- | line is even more definitely a thing of | the past. Certainly you cannot wear! the old dresses as they are, and if there| is no simple, obvious way of lengthening | the skirt and raising the waistline— what then? Simply this: mfl them up and make them over. That is what women used to do in the good old days when fash- fons were more capricious than they have been within the past few years, | and it is precisely what many women' are doing this season. What makes this doubly trying nowadays is that it is almost impossibly difficult to secure the services of an ingenious, inexpen- sive little dressmaker who will help you with the task. But we have at least this advantage— that many of the new dresses are de- liberately made from two sorts of mate- rial. And when we eke out old mate- new material we need have no mis- givings. The present fashion for separate blouses worn with skirts of contrasting material also helps. If you cannot make any other use of the material in a last season's dress, you can at least make it into a separate blouse. With a very little material you may make a gilet or sleeveless blouse, se convenient to wear under a jacket suit. With a little more material, a tuck-in blouse, bly with elbow sleeves: while, if you have still more material, you may :\lke an overblouse extending to the ips. Rfio; Bands. Various devices are followed to gnake the ribbon band on the Summer hat interesting. Sometimes two bands of ribbons of two colors are looped together at the front side of the hat, and the double strand of each color drawn firm- ly and smoothly to the back, where the four ends are caught together in a tiny tight bow. Sport Shirts. Shirtings in_most tempting designs are shown in the shops for sports wear. | With a yard or two ef one of them you| can make the most attractive sports irt, with sleeves running the length gamut from nothing at all to full length. Some of these new shirtings are woven in ciffored stripes. self-color designs in faconne style. ir weighs, pliahle 'Here is & smart suit for spectster ov metive sport, that embadiea all the selient points of fashion. It is made of a bright tweed misture, light in nature. A long cireular cape takes the place of a jacket and suspenders hold the in terestingly out skirt in its proper place. French Dressmakers Launch Colors Which Are Both Gay and Distinguished—Laec- quer Red and Other Paint Shades Give Way to Floral Tones in Season’s Selec- tions—Signs of Reaction in Favor of Effects Which Are Becoming and Harmonious. BY MARY MARSHALL. LACK is as much admired and as often worn by the well dressed French woman as ever—and black aways is more of a favorite in France than in this country. White promises to be especially smart this Summer. It is not by departing from these colorless tones that the in- fluential French dressmakers have given the cue for a more colorful Summer, but in breaking away from beige and the endless list of allied neutral tones such as grege, putty and sand that have pre- vailed for so many years. Making the rounds of the well known dressmakers in the Rue de la Paix and the Champs Elysees, the American in Paris is impressed more by the new col- ors than the new silhouette, which is, of course, an older story in nee than in this country, where we e adjusted ourselves more reluctantly to the raised waistline and the more closely molded contours than they have in France. These new colors that the French dressmakers have launched are at the same time gay and il‘dnTIlhefi. Th are fresh without being brilllant, nat- ural without being artless. Color com- | binations are more harmonious than they have been for many seasons and yet they are not obvious. x % GRIS blue and blue rol—gray blue and king blue—are most often seen after navy blue, which Is everywhere accepted as one of the season's smartesi hues. In place of lacquer red and other tones £ & rather “painty” sort that have been in evidence within recent years are fresh flower-petal tones of rose and red. Vert jaune and tileull—yellow, n and linden—have been favored during the Spring and wil undoubtedly continue to be favored throughout the Summer. Saftron, banana, straw and oltron— which is, of course, lemon—are the shades that give yellow an unusually impartant place. All along the line in matters of dress one notices signs of a reaction extremes of moderniam. The new fash- ions, whatever they are, are modern for | good the period when they occur, and no sea- son can ibly be more modern or less modern n another. ok ox % O 1 suppose it would be absurd to say that fashions today are less modern than they were yesterday—but one does notice that in the silhouette of the new hats and dreases, in the designs of the printed materials and in the new eal- ore a less self-conseious striving te be lingness to Some have | borro In colors this striving after novelty sometimes proved unfortunate becsuse after the hundreds of years that paint- ers and figmm makers have been ex- - perimenting with colors almast the only way that one might hope to hit upon & shade that seemed new was by ing one that was essentially un) 3 and the only way of hitting on a color combination for which ne it could be found in the past was by com- | bining ecolors in a definite’> inhar- | monious way. Really we have to congratulate our- selves that the dressmakers this season give us eolars and combinations that are not too unprecedented e be &t once becoming and harmonious. (Copyright. 1930). . Lirs Good Looks Help Get Women Jobs A successful n'g‘ort in scientific begu! culture states that the majority women who come to her for treatment are not women who might be called vain or silly. They are not even society women. A large majority of the women who seek the aid of this expert, whose work consists of eorrec real blem- ishes and not giving o cal treatments,” are professional women or women in public life, many of them women beyond middle age. < hairdresser who makes a specialty of coloring hair—one of the best in her profession—says that many women whom no one could accuse of being vain came to her for hair celoring. they would have somie minor operation perfarmed, If, as the hair turns gray and then grayer or white, a woman finds it is not bcconunoo{‘lnd detracts greatly from her looks, there is ne reason why she should not have it “touched up,” pro- viding she is sure that no injury can be dane by the treatment, and provid- ing she is sure ti the hair will be better looking after treatment. No Seams. Much liked seamless stockings om“::.: bofitcny the usual sea these are made with wrong side, and are side out. ™