Evening Star Newspaper, April 6, 1930, Page 55

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D, C, APRIL 6, 1930—PART . THREE. 18 Smart Simplicity as Important as Femininity in New Clothe %Y 2, 7, . 7 __ 7 7 AT N WY 77, 7 A . & \ 7 7 _ 7. . . ) 7 7/ 7 7 77 7722 A N o5 NP 272 IrI s Harmony of Line and Color as Vital as Ever to Woman of Innate Good Taste—Ornate Styles Fail to Make Headway—Tailored Suit and Product of Dressmaker So Mingled That Various Examples Defy BY HELEN DRYDEN, Classification—Fur NDOUBTEDLY too much has been sald about the mnew feminine and romantic element in clothes. It is all very well to realize that certain fashion revivals of the season go back to the days when women led more sheltered, more secluded and supposedly more feminine lives than they do today and it is perfectly obvious that there is very little suggestion of mannishness or boyishness in_woman’s dress at the present time. But it is a different thing—and a dangerous thing from the point of view of good style in dressing— to confuse femininity with fussiness and romance with overelaboration. ‘The_woman of innate good taste in dress has experienced iittle change of heart or taste in choosing her new ‘wardrobe for the Spring of 1930. Sim- plicity, smartness, harmony of line and color are as vital to her as ever, She chooses the simpler dresses, hats, suits and wraps in order to be well , and discards those that are ornate and fussy in order to avold being “dressed up.” * ok kX the jacket suit was first heralded as the street costume for Spring, a sharp line was drawn between the tailored suit and the suit of dress- er origin or suggestion. The dividing ine between these two classes of suits has beoome less clearly defined as the season has advanced and among the smartest of the new suits for Spring and early Summer there are many which defy classification. Their sim- plicity, fine workmanship and careful fitting suggest the tailored suit. In dis- tinctiveness and originality they belong to the other group. Some of the smartest of these suits are made of wool .with'.hajmkfi Sometimes only the front of the is lined. ‘There are important to consider when buying a suit that is NOT quite indispensable desirable as an sult or street dress for is the fur scarf. Cross fox or silver fox for the Jarger scarf and sable, baum marten or fisher if you desire a’smaller fur. Guimpes are among the interestin revivals of the season, and we mi wel expect to see more of them. A - less dress of navy blue silk crepe is worn with a long-sleeved guimpe of figured hat her at the of the new Scarf for Spring. checked silk has a fine white lin guimpe with finely pleated frills at the neck and sleeves. The important dinner or dance dress for Spring is very often black. Silk crepe of soft, light texture lends itself to the long lines of the and the shirring or drapery of the bodice. Black taffeta, rather crisp but light in weight, makes a strong appeal to the girl of 18 or 20. Black tulle, alone or combined with lace, is a better choice for the older woman than taffeta or plain black crepe. The newest black lace dresses show small flower patterns of early Victorian suggestion. (Copyright, 1930.) Table Setting May Be Much Simplified It is an old-time trick of overworked housewives to keep the table partly set from one meal to the next and to re- move the tablecloth and various perma- nent accessories of meals—such as sugar bowl, vinegar cruet, pepper box and salt cellars—only when a clean tablecloth is to be spread. And in many a household '.hl.skoc:um only two or three times a week. And, of course, most housewives who do their work without help, and look after a family of children, are over- worked. You cannot expect them to miss any chance' of saving steps and trouble that are so apparent as this. Still, the fastidious woman firmly disapproves of this trick of leaving the table set. It is synonymous to her with rusticity and bad breeding, lack of taste and general carelessness. ‘The task of setting and unsetting the You Should Know Cost of Servant If you have a maid or have had one, did you ever stop to consider and to ‘work it out in black and white just how much she costs you? You should not simply consider the wages you pay her. If possible compare food bills, bills for light and fue) a month when you have a maid with those of a month when you have none. You will see that expenses €0 | here differ very much. Then you must also consider that when you have no maid you have to have outside work done. There is per- haps & woman by the day and outside skirt | laundry. Moreover, when you have a maid you can perhaps do all your own mending and sewing, but when you have none you have to have a sewing woman in to do this. By dint of considerable figuring you ought to be able to tell just what your mald costs. Now stop and consider whether this is worth while. One sensible housewife the other day, when a last maid had just departed, sat down io figure just how much a maid cost her for a year. She then how much capital this repre- sented, and what she discovered sur- prised her, as it would probably sur- I‘.’nflu you if you made the same figur- 8. Many a housewife has discovered that a maid costs much more than an auto- mobile, and there are housewives who would rather do their own housework alone and have a car than to have & maid and no car. Sometimes the amount of money that a maid represents may be spent in elec- to make housework electric washers, And sometimes it happens that the ‘housewife simply looks upon the amount her own work as more ey . And if she likes these things they prob- ably repay her for the amount of work she does to make up for the work of the maid. Curtains Let in And Keep Out Light g when required to do so. Windows were constructed to let in air and then made to A MOBT mothers take a real satisfac- - X 5 Left— Dull green tweed knit suit with scalloped collar and sleeveless blouse of fine white pique. The closely fitted cut-away jacket is distinetty new. Center— One-piece dress of printed silk on which black and two tones of green are pleasingly blended. The soft green felt hat bas a black band and the scarf of cross fox completes the ensemble. Right— Afternoon dress of printed chiffon with crisp white organdie at neck and STy, . P Sy T s > W v S 5 s T -, 7 SSSeN W~ L. I ,_m. BT )Pt Left—Black flat crepe dress for formal evening wear, showing a diagonally cut skirt yoke and uneven flowing drapery. Onyx and rhinestone jewelry and long white kid gloves are correct accessories. Right—Anothér formal evening dress of black flat crepe. The flaring pleats extend into a train and the draped blouse is cut into a deep U-shaped decolletage at the back. “ man’s thoughts he should have written a companion young lady’s thoughts. We do not have to ask where they nor wouldthenmehtmeflmhwmuflu—cmtumegmdpnton& For at this season young and old have a universal thought—clothes. There is no doubt that humans, like all the rest of nature, go some of & metamorphosis in Spring. There is a joyous feeling that takes hold of all of us, llnd with the “female of the species” there is one main way of expressing it—clothes, gmoe Christmas, college and boarding school girls have been think- ing of Easter. Home and the family? Yes. ‘But with most of the has been another thought that came first—clothes. It handed down to us through the ages. Primitive 'mple 8ho by bedecking themselves with all the new flowers came Modern woman wants even more herself attractive. Competition is stronger. A fresh garland for may have been all right when man was not so knowing, but today it is Wiser to have the flowers scattered over chiffon and made up into the smartest dress to be found. And thus do fancles lightly turn in Spring. HELEN DRYDEN. Neatness in Small Child Means Much in Achieving the Well Dressed Appear- anc e—Meeting the Clothes Problem of the Rapidly Growing Child on a Moderate Income. faded garments at home at a trifling expense. Never buy or make clothes for chil- dren over five or six without consulting their tastes. It is a good plan, too, to visit the child’s school occasionally so as to get an idea of what other children wear. Nothing makes a child more uncomfortable thun to be dressed in a manner that makes him conspicuous to his associates. You may learn from a high-class outfitter for a of suit is te for school children, and it may be in certain places, but this does not mean that your child will feel or look lepro or E Of course, it would be folly to follow ldren’s whims entirely in choos- tion in seeing their children neatly and smartly dressed. It is & satisfaction, too, to feel that real for children consists in nothing in the world but neat, simple clothes that fit well. And these re- quirements can be met without areat expense. ge’he things that make for untidy, dowdy dressing in children are matters such as broken, knotted shoestrings, petticoats or bloomers that sag, shirc sleeves the siceve of coat or frock, clothes that are strikingly too large or too small, clothes that are faded or ragged. thers insist that it is not and ly it is nearly always possible for mother and to strike a compromise and find something that suits both. The Prench middle-class mother puts a black satine smock on her son and to school. 'This . ; i b i i i 5 g : ; & £ gk E.E £ B i 5 i : sgég i EEE ¢ i g H tages. nt!pu'!ecflypouihlebmgpood for children that certain 11 sort highly appropriat dressed in that selfsame suif ggckly i e a u ften wish | potal s inpptopris ; children sul he the gives ‘The b ~smocked ldren. e Blatk & ite In of but she — usually starched — e aa W, had At however, additional th of warmi speeches—and to push m Maidless Dinner Skillfully Planned ‘When you give a little dinner with no maid or with only an inexperienced maid it is a good plan not to have any dish in your menu that demands much last-minute attention. For this reason whipped cream dishes, though delicious and not difficult, are not a good selec- tion as it is annoying for the hostess to have to excuse herself to whip cream before the dessert course. ‘There are desserts of the sort that we know as charlottes, however, that make use of whipped cream in another way. That is the cream is whipped and added to the rest of the dessert hours before it is used, as it is set on ice to chill with the gelatin mixture that holds the cream. When possible it is desirable to have some place to set out the salad plates all ready for the salad course. This should be as cool as possible. There is nothing so confusing in getting a din- ner as not to have enough places to ut things in preparation. It is a really idea to 1 -ve several cutting or card tables in the kitchen and to devote one to each «{ the several courses. When time comes to make changes between courses no time has to be wasted in looking for the essentials of that course. In planning all your dishes for the little dinner that you must serve your- self observe how much can be done in advance and how much depends on last- minute preparation. There are some dishes like chicken pie that can be prepared well ahead of time. The chicken can be cooked, the gravy made and the pastry arranged over the pie in a baking dish. All that need be done when you want to serve it is to take it from the oven, place your baking dish in a silver ring or cover its sides with a folded napkin, and you have a good, old-fashioned dish for dinner. If toes have been cooked in the ple ere is just that much more last- minute trouble saved. Be Appreciative! ‘The woman who always has trouble with her servants is pretty sure to be the woman who hasn't learned the delicate art of paying compliments. usiness man who frequently loses a well trained stenographer right in the middle of his busiest season is the man who hasn’t learned the knack of letting his employes know when he is pleased with their work. ‘The club woman who has the repu- being conceited may not, as & matter of fact, be much of an egotist, never gives other women the satisfaction of letting them know that Junior Miss Likes Many Clothes of Many Colors—Tastes Are Often Good, and Whims Are Always Worth Censidering. School Clan May Choose With Poorer Judgment Than Individual Member, But Individuality Is Achieved—Selection of Suitable Jacket and Skirt Suits. BY MARY MARSHALL. Junior miss, sub-deb, flapper— by whatever name you choose to call the girl between 13 and 17—has clothes problems all her own, clothes problems that are especial- ly important because her interest in dress is decidedly keen. It really is keen, even if the junior miss in ques- tion pretends to be indifferent and pro- tects her dress consciousness by & shell of nonchalance. ~ ‘These facts most mothers realize, but most mothers do not realize that young girls of this age have, as a rule, prej- udices and opinfons in matters of dress that are worth taking into con- sideration, and that they also possess, as & rule, remarkably good taste. An interesting fact with regard to the taste of the sub-deb is that indi- vidually it is very much better usually than when expressed col- . 16-year-old girl who is pound up heart and soul in the sympa- thies and activities of the school clan to which she belongs chooses clothes and colors that she probably would not choose if left to her own devices. * k kX TBI girl of this age needs a variety of clothes, but, thanks to her youth, she does not need clothes of the most expensive sort. The older woman who finds that to make a creditable ap- pearance she needs materials of the finest quality and dresses of expensive finish, may contrive to make a single suit and two or three blouses answer the purposes for all daytime occasions and may prefer to have one very d evening dress to three or four of an priate accessories. An excellent choice is the jacket suit blue flannel—nautical in spirit but ble for street or spectator sports wear. The matching beret need cost but a trifie and the separate wash- o FLANN!L. tweed, and mtmmmm are more appropriate for the girl in her teens than the finer suit materials such as covert or wool voile, which play such an important role in fashions for older women this season. Printed silks for the girl in her teens should be those showing the smaller, neater designs. Large flower designs or strikingly modernistic designs with strong color contrasts are a better selec- tion for the older woman. For warm weather street wear there are lovely printed silks of a soft color combina~ tion with figures arranged so that they give the effect of dots—prints that might seem to be lacking in character for the older woman but that enhance the charm of the younger girl. Brighter prints—preferably in fairly small de- sign—are chosen for resort or indoor wear while for late afternoon and eve- ning the figured silks of soft flower tones are charming. * oK ok ok 'T'HIS is a season of pastels—but while the so-called dusty tones and the new “dirty pink” are usually more becoming to the older woman than the cleaner, clearer tones, the girl in her teens :Ppenn to better advantage in these clearer pastels. Girls of today usually like colors, and they should certainly not be disco aged in this preference. duckling often becomes the the family if allowed to wear esy colors instead of the subdued tones that some mothers choose for them. There are mothers, you know, who keep their daughters in beige and navy blue and white <eeliug that these colors indicate good taste. But this sort of thing is most unfair to the young girl who re- mains drab and insignificant in subdued and darker tones. (Copyright, 1930.) Be a Good Guest