Evening Star Newspaper, December 15, 1929, Page 69

‘Costume Jewelry Is Among Most Acceptable of H Must Be in Keeping With Type of Cos- tume With Which Tt Is to Be Worn— When an Accessory Is Chosen by Giver, It Must Have Prop- er Relation to Whole Ensemble — Various Groups Are Favored —Gloves, Blouses, Scarfs and Other Articles Are Con- sidered. it to supply the color accent to her costume. Yet many of us hesitate to buy it for ourselves, think- ing other accessories more essential to the ensemble. The first requisite in selecting cos- tume jewelry is that it shall be in keep- ing with the type of costume with which it is worn—whether for sports, for street, for formal afternoon wear or for the evening. There are chokers of jersey beads to wear with jersey and tweed suits such as green jersey beads with appliques of green, brown and gold flowers. A neckpiece of that sort can be matched to a flower of the same Jersey with gilt leaves. ‘There are new sports pieces of leather. One consists of thongs of braided leather interrupted by leather covered balls placed at intervals, in one and two-color combinations. Gal- alith is also used extensively in this very informal type of jewelry. A choker of three strands of silk cords is caught by motifs of contrasting galalith and completed by a carved galalith pendant incorporating the two colors. To this you may match a bracelet. £ ke 'O COMPLEMENT the street costume there are effective gold and silver pleces which may be had in sets. One in old mesh consists of a necklace with ringed ends caught by a buckle. This 18 matched with bracelets, shoe buckle and belt buckle. More elaborate pieces in both gold and silver have chased motifs as pendants and clasps. Brace- Jets are made up of alternating links of these chased pieces and plain mesh. fiurflngs are designed along the same nes. Quite unusual is a collar-and-cufl set composed of baguette cut crystals. The collar is adjusted so that it fits around the base of the neck, just like a flat collar, only that it is narrow at the back in order that it may be worn with a collared dress. In the evening the same set may be worn as necklace and bracelet. There is another ingen- fous day or night necklace of simulated fi‘lr]& with crystal baguette pendant. is necklace may be detached at the sides and worn as a double strand dur- ing the day and as a single strand in * front with looped effect weighted with the pendant il’: t}l‘u evening. K TH! Christmas gilft that is at the same time useful and beautiful may well be something to wear. And since the ensemble idea is supreme in fashion today. the various parts that go to make the ensemble have taken on new importance. ever, that any ome accessory must be selected with a thought of its relation to the whole. If we think of a bag there is the color to consider—whether it will o with the shoes, the fur, or some =omlnunt note of the costume. It may mean that we shall have to include the shoes, a gift over which we 1pight once have hesitated. There are such good looking sets of shoes and bags, pumps of calf with rep- tile buckle pieces matched to the same kid with appliques of reptile leather in dark greem, navy blue or deep red as well as black or brown. There are evening slippers of metal ~~~Pprocade with gold or silver trim to be matched to bags of pearl and gold bead embroidery mounted on gilt frames. Bags of black or brown antelope or black and beige calf are pretty sure to blend with either the tailored street costume or the more formal afternoon ensemble. A muff bag of checked tweed with a Lalique crystal clasp and one of caracul designed by Patou are new and smart. The caracul muff bag may be worn with a felt hat with an ear flap of the same fur. Then there are combinations of bag, Here again a set in BY HELEN DRYDEN. OSTUME jewelry is one of the most acceptable of Christmas gifts. Every woman depends on belt and gloves. black suede would please any woman. The ornamentation of the bag matches the buckle of the belt, while the gloves are of the same leather. Separate belts of unusual color combinations make good looking presents which any woman might find useful in defining the new waistline. g oty o LOVES have long been a favorite remembrance, and this scason there is a wide variety from which to choose. Chanel’s tea hour glove piped with si ver with tiny colored crystal drops is well liked. Chanel also 'stripes her flared glove cuffs with brown. red, gray or beige. But if you select them you should include the glace scar{ which is striped on its pointed ends in the same ‘way. Then there are the Worth gloves with cords on the cuffs forming wrist We must remember,-hows | GIFT. STONES AND JET. GOLD METALL RHINESTONE NECKLA( CLAS CRI1 straps. These gloves may be matched to a bag with gold frame, clasp and chain. There are black kid gloves with appliqued design of red and gunmetal kid which are linked to suede pumps with the seme applique trimming. Now o | that evening gloves-are a necessity, im- agine the delight at recetving one of the 20-inch powder-pink ~ mosquetaires, or the 16-button length beige suede or pinky gray suede pull-ons. Long black gluv?, as well as shorter pull-ons for the formal afternoon costume, are an- other happy Christmas gift for which you can generally purchase a “bond” if you are in doubt as to the size. The something new In stockings in- cludes the clock stockings that every one who plays golf or tramps is wearing. These may be of tan to match the silk stockings with which they are worn or in a vivid contrast. Dark brown, deep tan and gunmetal are the favored hades for day-time with complexion tones highlighted for evening. * ok ok % (OF SYARFS there is an endless array, ranging from wool to chiffon, printed or painted, or gay from con- trasting appliques. ' Very appropriate as Christmas gifts are lace berthas and shoulder collars, the former longer in back for evening gowns and the latter to give a new and demure look to the long-sleeved afternoon dresses. There are also vestees and sleeveless blouses of lace and chiffon, satin and handkerchief linen. Pique collar and cuff sets with notched or shirred col- lars are favorites. They can be matched to_pique flowe With blouses so strong in fashion's favor either a tuck-in or overblouse { would be heartily welcomed on Christ- mas. Jersey blouses buttoning right up | the front o a collar are smart with | tweed and knitted suits. y (Copyright. 1929.) Margaret Pays the Bills They All Come Her Way While Other Persons Keep Their Pocketbooks Intact and Express Grati- tude for Her Great Aid in Emergencies. BY HELEN WELSHEIMER. MARGARET usually pays her bills. The laundry bill, the dry cleaner’s pill and the tea room check fall into her hands as naturally as rain water came down the spout to your grand- mother's treasure barrel. “Let Margaret pay,” her sister Cath- erine will murmur sweetly when the last spoonful of whipped cream, ice cream, maraschino cherries and nuts has been eaten and the girls are beginning to open their pocketbooks. “See, she has @ bill ready T1l pay you later,” some one will suggest. “I haven't the. right change.” “It’s lovely of you to do this,” another wvoice will add, quite as though it is the expected thing. broke as usual. I guess you know that.” Catherine always ends as a final touch, The others continue to open their pocketbooks—to remove their compac Margaret takes the check and pays, the bill. It's been that way for a long time now. Margaret, as it happens, has a position which carries with it a great deal more respormibility, and, inciden- tally, a better salary, than that of her sister and the half dozen girls with whom she chums. Therefore, they have organized an alllance to see that she does her duty by them. Catherine is i president of the club and officlates very ably. | *Here's the paper boy, Margaret, dar- | ling, and I haven't any change. Will you pay him?” she will call. Or, “There's a youngster at the door with magazines and I promised to buy, but I'm broke. Give him some money, Margaret, honey.” Perhaps: “My dress is here from the cleaner and I don't want to break into a big bill. T'll get change from your pocketbook, Margaret.” So Margaret pays and pays and pays. “Why don't you buy more things for vourself?” people ask her sometimes. “If T had as much money as you do I'd have the things I liked. You must have a splendid bank account.” Margaret could tell them that it is a very small one. Besides, by the time Catherine has borrowed all she wants there isn't enough for the lingerie and frocks she would like. It's rather a bur- den, this business of supporting Cather- ine, and she doesn't get any credit for it. Today, when girls are frequently ele- vated to positions which carry with them a salary which exceeds that of the average girls, there is a growing ten- dency for others to impose on them. The Margarets wish sometimes they had been born Catherines, and the Cather- would do if they had Margaret’s money! ’1{151)' itl‘li’llly can't see what she does wi ! s Beans Withfilt/leat. Three cups navy beans, two shank salt pork. the beans, wash most carefully and re- move skin and part of fat. (This fat can be fried out by cutting up and heating in a dish in the oven and used for drippings.) Add meat to the beans, cover well with boiling water, cook slow- ly four or five hours, adding more water if necessary until both meas beans are tender. ‘This may be e 10 & er, unds { Pick over and wash } THE SUNDAY. STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C., DECEMBER_15.' 1929—PART THREE.: METAIL Fi ND JET DROP AT THE BA TOP, LEFT: LONG EARRINGS O DAYTIME WEAR. BOTTOM. LEI AFTERNOON WEAR. CENT BL TOP, LEFT: LOTUS FLOWER PERFUME IN BOTTLE THAT MAKES IT AN ESPECIALLY CENTER, LEFT: LONG DROP EARRINGS FOR EVENING, CONSISTI BOTTOM, LEFT: GOLD AND ORANGE TABS FOR THE FORMAL AFTERNOON WITH CRYSTAL BAQUETTE CL. WEIGHTED WITH RHINESTONES : j T: VANITY FOR 1OOSE POWDER AS WELL ! MSON OR JADE, WITH LIPSTICK IN THREE SHADES TO MATCH. KID SC K ANTELOPE BAG WITH GRAY CRYS CCEPTABLE OF PEA RHIN BROCADE OVERBLOUSE WITI'{ NSEMBLE. TOP, RIGHT: PEARL. JET AND M WHICH DEPENDS A SECOND DOWN. B LONG CHAIN TONES WITH A BAGUETTE COMPACT WITH MOTIF IN s3> SRNDRD R TOP. LEFT: CHASED LINKS A . | LET TC LEFT: BAG OF BROWN C GLOVES SHOWN ABOVE TE| TOP, SWEATER WITH YELLOW.B CHIEF. =R/ D MESH WITH FRIN: 1 CRUS SHED CALF BA F, TO BE HAD IN GRAY, TAN OR BLACK / BOTTOM, RIGHT: PERFUME IN MODERN SILVER CONTAINER. L RING HANDLES >1 S OF DARK BROWN CALFSKIN WITH T. ETS. Cl A DOUBLE COMPACT.POWDER AND ROUGE IN VARYI WITH LIPSTICK IN A SMALL COLORFUL LEATHER CASE. BOTTOM, RIGHT ANDS WHICH MAY BE WORN STITCH EDGED WITH BLACK, YELLOW AND RED STRIPES MATCHIN %Y . U RIGHT: FACE POWDER IN COLO AND BR WITH A 15 "HOKER MADE OF SOLID LINKS OF GOLD MESH ALTERNATING WITH FINELY ) C| | F FINISHED WITH A GOLD FRIN ) MATCH THE CHOKER MADE OF ALTERNATING MESH AND CHA ALFSKIN WITH TAN AND BROWN BRAIDED TRIMMING ENTER, LEFT: BRACE- ASED LINKS. BOTTOM, TO MATCH RFUL CONTAINER. SECOND 'WN BRAIDED BRACE! SHADES COMBINED RAY CROCHET JARD! N. A SIMILAR: THE CROCHETED KER- e N S, WHICH CAN BE MAT 3 WITH SLIDE FAST \ FE._ AND BRACELET FOR DBS SUITABLE FOR E WITH ANY SUIT. TOP, Plan for a House Well Beforehand | ‘There are very few married folk who, if they make up their minds when they are first married that they want sometime to live in their own little home, may not sometime achieve that ambition. It may not be for the first 10 years, but if money is saved and energies are bent in that direction, the little house may come sooner than you expect. ‘There is one advantage in not build- ing your own home during the first few | years The longer you have experience in keeping house the better ideas you, wifl have as to what sort of house you want, the better will be your sug- gestions to the builder. For don't imagine that every one who is an archi- tect or builder has ideas as to the way to make a house most convenient for you. He has other things to think of, and often the convenience of a house is something that results entirely from the owner’s revision of plans. ‘Think it over. Keep a little book in_which you jot down ideas that you wduld like to carry out. Consider the question of bungalows as compared with houses buflt on two or three floors. Plan your kitchen, incorporating points you see in other people’s kitchens that have proved convenient. Try to make your house an all-year-round proposi- tion. So often a house is planned all in oné season. It is theh either a warm-weather house or a cold-weather house. Have your plans in mind for several years and then maybe you | can_incorporate points in your design that will make it good for all the year. See that your living room is sunny, that there are no dark rooms. If pos- llble.mplln s llzglnl up‘orch.”i: % only big enough for 8 bed-or two, need not be made 8o that/ you can use- it all the year round—just some \ | porch adjoining your bedroom that can be screened and netted off, where you can sleep when the nights are warm. This is something that the man who plans and bullds his house in the Winter usually forgets. Cream Cups. Bake sponge cake in gem pans. Hol- low out the centers and fill with whipped cream mixed with beaten egg white sweetened and flavored. Decorate with candied cherries, grated cocoanut, or grated chocolate. For a change, these cups could be filled with cocoanut cus- tard, covered with meringue and browned in the oven. [Articles to Wear- as Christmas Gifts There is nothing very new about giv- ing articles of apparel as Christmas presents, though some of the manufac- turers of ready-made clothes are push- ing the idea now as they never have before. The object, of course, is to stimulate the buying of ready-made apparel. In making up your Christmas lists it would be possible to make all your Christmas presents_consist of some sort of apparel. But your selection should be made with tact and care. Merely serviceable apparel is generally Accessories for Christmas The habit of giving pretty one to adopt. presents at Christmas is a good To receive some lovely little thing that is a luxury one would not buy oneself gives joy to most women. Time was when the purely useful present was the thing. It 'was usually some monstrosity that for some strange reason had to do with keeping the recipient warm. But now first of all one wants to give something—it may be only a trifle—that is truly lovely. It may be something to wear, and, if so, all the more reason why it must enhance rather than detract from the wearer. You wait eagerly until Christmas morning to open your gifts, all beautifully tied up, for nowadays a Christmas pack- age must be just as lovely on the outside as the inside. Which would you rather find within the wrappings—a smart piece of costume jewelry or bedroom slippers knit of helvi/ an exquisite bottle of perfume or a bed jacket knit dark blue wool? red wool; of heavy Our grandmothers may have kept warm, but they cer- tainly did not look very alluring. Today women understand how to make themselves appear to advantage at all times and they want pretty things that are appropriate. Never have accessories been 80 umelnfl ing the question ful. When one goes sh * tobuy” but * at not to buy.” so really beauti- no longer “what best bestowed on members of your own family. Sometimes if you give an extremely serviceable but not particularly ornate ! present to somebody that really needs it, you find that you have given offense. | distinctiveness as well as serviceability, | do so. A little hand work always gives distinctiveness, especially if it is your own. | If you can buy a thing from a limited { stock you also have gained distinction | in the gift. For instance, it is possi- ble to buy very good quality woolen material at certain establishments where hand-woven goods are sold. And the fact that such things cannot be :x;;:lght everywhere gives them special | value. Always beware of giving the wear-! able present if it is not the sort of thing you are quite sure the person to whuin it is given will want to wear.! Don't take it for granted that every young girl wears heavy woolen stock- ings ‘just because they are popular. | Don't assume tha every young man | likes ceckties, save of his own choosing. | Don't Touch Hair It used to be a rule of good form that the well bred man or woman did not touch his hair “in polite society.” When you read in a novel that the hero “combed his fingers through his hair” in a rage of passion, you somehow felt that he wasn't quite a thoroughbred. Because the thoroughbred didn't touch his hair. But this old rule of good form must | have been forgotten by many a _young woman. or perhaps the temptation to stroke and fondle and pat a new bob is too great. At any rate, there are always women about you who seem to delight in fingering their bobbed hair. They seem to want to feel whether it is still there, just as a child keeps in- new to be sure that the Mglw A e Fig Cake Filling. One-half pound chopped figs, two ta- blespoonfuls sugar, three tablespoonfuls boiling water. one tablespoonful lemon Jjuice. Cook in double boiler until thick enough. Spread between cake layers and ice top with white icing. oliday Gifts When Santa Claus Has Clothes in Stock, There Must Be Some Knowledge of the Taste of Each Per- son Who Is to Be Fa. vored—Habit of Giv- ing Precisely the Right Thing Is Worthy of Cultiva. tion—Reflects Taste of Giver and Re- cewver. BY MARY MARSHALL. OME people protest against the Ppractice of giving things to wear at Christmas time. Their argu- ment is that clothes and jewelry, gloves, handkerchiefs, scarfs and other accessories are so personal that a woman or young girl who has any in- dividuality whatever likes to choose them herself. Lacking the powers of & mind reader, they say, it is impossible for the giver to know what to choose. But then—any gift worth giving must be selected with a knowledge of the taste of the reciplent. If we give sweets we must know whether to choose chocolates or bon- bons or candied fruits and nuts or an assortment of all four. Certainly to at- tempt to choose a book without s very intimate knowledge ot the taste of the one who is to receive it is & hasardous procedure. Besides half the pleasure of Christmas giving comes from the fur- tive inquiries that we must make con- cerning the preferences of those we in- clude on our Christmas lisf This game of selecting just the right present at Christmas time is one that may be carried through the entire year, and a hint dropped last July or last January may serve as & clue in choos- ing the most acceptable present for Christmas. LA TH! habit of giving precisely the right present at Christmas is one that is well worth cultivating. Not only must your gift reflect your own good taste, but even more it must reflect the taste. of the one to whom it is given. To give a friend amber when she pre- fers amethyst, or a lace-trimmed hand- kerchief when she has expressed her preference for untrimmed handkerchiefs, ‘| is to make a very poor investment of your Christmas funds, and there are few women who can look without & pang of disappointment at & Christmas gift that shows disregard of their per- sonal preferences. 8o if you have a friend who has re- cently gone modern in the furnishings of her apartment, don't make the mis- take of giving ‘her a Colonial candle~ stick, because if she is consistently mod- ernistic she won't want candlesticks in any form, least of all in Colonial de- sign. And if you have a friend who is a crank on perfumes don't give her any scented dressing table dainties without knowing the scent that she pre- fers this season. * K ox % ND be very sure, if you are giving something to wear, te have a good idea of the color scheme of the Winter wardrobe of the friend for whom you are making the selection. Granted that you are qualified to make the right selections, there is noth- ing better that you can give another woman or girl of your acquaintanee this year than some really attractive bit of apparel or an accessary, use | fashion demands more accessories than most women feel that they can possibly buy for themselves and the recent dras- tic changes in styles have left most of us with a rather depleted wardrobe. Scarfs, handkerchiefs, gloves, stockings, dainty pieces of underwear, purses, cos- tume jewelry, artificial flowers—what woman can truthfully say that she has all of them that her heart desires? (Copyright, 1939.) War of Hemline Continues Opposing Champions Appear, Respective- -y, for Tall, Slender, Folks and: - Short, Plump Ones. BY HELEN WELSHIMER. “I detest the new fashions,” Polly said in a rebellious voice. “I adore them!" Geraldine answered in a joyous one. “They are utterly ridiculous,” Polly continued. “Next thing we’ll be going back to the dear, dumb days when a leg was a limb, for the ankle-length skirts are doing a lot to remove all knee revelations. Think of the yards of goods we'll need and the corsets that put princess lines in shape. No, thanks! Down with the hemline, by which I mean up!” “Down with it!” Geraldine insisted. “Drapel dresses are more feminine and intriguiig_and beautiful and—-" “Cost three times as much,” ‘Polly cheerfully supplied. “Escaping curls have more charm, too,” Geraldine continued, admiring her own coiffure in the mirror while Polly scowled at her short, straight hair. Polly is short and plump and looks like a fat, dumpy little girl masquerad- Jng when she tries the queenly styles. ‘And though she does have nice knees, nobody is going to know it. Geraldine, on the other hand, is tall and slim and graceful. She was made to be a silhouette. have her inning. “You'll Jook the part of a woman who wants to be worshipped all rlzht.' But men get tired of burning incense all the time. They aren't that way. They'll get bored and go play with some girl who doesn’t have to worry about rolling up her skirts. You wait.” Polly wrinkled her turned-up nose. “There won't be any girls like that,” Geraldine argued. “Oh, yes, there will. ing at one right now. flop in the new trailing, clinging, back- to-Queen Victoria models, so I'm being different. I'm preserving my curves and you can take your long skirts and long legs and long hair and long gloves and play hide and go seek. But I won't!” ‘The contemporary warfare that is go- ing on at present really isn't between the opposing fashions. It's between the opposing factions, represented by the tall slender girls who are going to play up their dignity while they can, and the short, plump ones who have to be ridiculous or stick to the tried old way. Modesty has nothing to do with this case. Types have. ‘If you have angles instead of curves, long skirts conceal them, If you have curves, short skirts reveal them. There’s a chapeau controversy in the air, too, Those women who were given cameo features which can do their work without assistance are willing to dis- | pense with stage properties. But those who can't are singing a song of lamen- tation because there is a movement to abolish hair and let the forehead pre- ybe we'll learn to cultivate our Her legs were too | 8o if you can select your presents for!thin for the sports era, but now shell } You are look- | I know I'd be a | individual,” Polly ended the argument. u“But she and Geraldine agree on one Ing. “Down with the hemline,” they are crying. = But each means sométhing exactly opposite. Oatmeal Provides Variety. In Meal We don't make all the use we might of oats. Oatmeal, of course, is no more wholesome than any other sort of cereal, but it is useful, nevertheless, in many ways. And the housewife who likes variety may well learn to use it in other ways than as hot cooked breakfast food. . Like everything else, it becomes monotonous if we serve too much of it. We must vary our diet, if we are to satisfy the demands of our come plicated " makeup. So oatmeal for breakfast every day is a mistake, be- cause we don't like it. By the same reasoning, we can make. oatmeal use- ful by using it occasionally in other forms than breakfast food. Here are some suggestions: One and one-half cups rolled oats, one cake compressed yeast, one and one-half teaspoons salt, two cups warm water, two tablespoons sugar. Place oats in warm water. Dissolve yeast cake in one-third cup of lukewarm water; add two tablespoons of lard and salt. Add one and one-half cups of flour to oats, then add the yeast and salt. Beat well and let rise until light. Add sugar, enough flour to make ja soft mold and knead lightly. Let irise about one hour. Make in one large or two small loaves. Let rise again in pans about one hour to double the size. Bake from 35 to 45 minutes in moderate oven. If started at eight the bread will be done by noon. One cake yeast, one-fourth cup luke- warm water, three tablespoonfuls sugar, two tablespoonfuls butter, one cup hot milk, one cup rolled oats, one- half cup whole wheat flour, one-half cup sifted white flour, one teaspoonful salt. Boil the rolled oats and butter jin milk one minute. Let stand until lukewarm. Dissolve yeast and sugar in lukewarm water and combine the two mixtures. Add flour and salt, and beat well. The batter should be thick enough to drop heavily from the spoon. Cover and let rise until light. about one hour, in a moderately warm place. Fill well greased muffin pans two- thirds full. Lét rise about 40 minutes, 'bake 25 minutes in a moderately hot Baked Apples Good baked apples are a fit dessert for any dinner, You can serve an apple baked with- out skin with alit tle whipped cream oy with a little vanilla ice cream and it ® a veritable delicacy for dessert. Or you can fill the core cavity with nuts and raisine before cooking, and then sweet- en thoroyghly and e‘ek to make an- other delicacy.. You can baste baking applez con- stantly with 4 thick sirup and, » get A still different Teouit. - (19 o bake {he apples rather slowly so that they won't lose their shape. At this time of year the green apples lose shape quw_kga— bake to piecés, as the saying is. y may be placed after they are prepared :o"rn baki m‘ l:.d’l"l:ull custard cups, their ferm. ¥