Evening Star Newspaper, November 10, 1929, Page 53

Youth, Slenderness and Sophistication Are Chief Characteristics to Be Observed— Far - Seeing Choice Favors Four - Piece Model on Which to Build Practically All of Daytime Ward. robe— Formal En- semble of Broadcloth or Velvet. - BY HELEN DRYDEN, HE debutante has fashion on her side this season when she de- mlnd; & complete new ward- robe, for how is she to remodel any old to give the very new, sleek, elongated, birdlike look? The new clothes, of which youth, slen- derness and sophistication are the chief characteristics, are too smart on the lithe, long-limbed young girl to be re- sisted or even questioned. Even sports clothes, which have changed the least, have dropped their skirts from 2 to 4 inches, raised the ‘waist line to the normal marked by belt or tuck-in blouse and display the hall- marks of the season in line and fabric manipulation. Although two and three- piece ensembles are correct, the far- seeing debutante will select a four-pi model on which she can build practical- 1y all of her daytime wardrobe. A short jacket, fitted into a belt at the waist like a lumber jacket or one of the new glorified fur-edged cardigans, may be worn with a wrap-around or sec- m‘lly Ppleated skirt to make a correct ‘The three-quarter or seven-eighths coat may be worn as a topcoat or as the partner of a tallored dress. The newest of these tweed topcoats are fur lined, many being reversible, and all of them are trimmed with fur, usually of the informal sort such as kid, earacul, raccoon, wolf and badger, ‘To make such an ensemble comfort- able for foot ball games and other sports events there are sweaters. The newest are of the lacy tweeds or wool lace with lingerie touches. Every debutante will want a velvet to wear to the teas of her sister debutantes. Here again there is the re- strained fullness at the hemline, ema- nating from the gores, godets, bias flounces or circular cut, the higher waistline achieved by tucks, shirrings or belt, and the softening touch of lace in collar, jabot and on the sleeves. Er- E:no lfi:n'mmu nuhn.l&u"u for the lace, collar extending orm & narrow Tever o the waistline. * x ox % 02 wear for the more formal of these ning dress is not required, there are THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C. NOVEMBER 10, 1929—PART THREE. his Season Will Require Complete New Wardrobe occasions and to dinner when eve- and two-piece dresses of metal cloth and lovely pnrt net frocks, in tulle, coarse fish net and jersey tulle. ‘Worth shows one in brown jersey tulle with the flare supplied lets. 2ued princess nldppm & el cara- two the front, the %flu by a belt, and pleated, white pigue col- Br and cuffs, g g The formal ensemble may be of broad- ¢cloth or of velvet, or may even consist of a wool velour coat of bright emerald green, star or deep red with any of the Jjust described. The coat may show a tendency to flare— from the circular cut, from gores inset at the sides and back, or from the flounces which mount upward in front. Such tunies are generously furred. Dyed lynx or the blond tones of badger. lapin, beaver, blue fox or dyved white fox, Persian lamb, astrakhan or galyak appear in shawl collars extending as facing to the hem, tuxedo and pouch collars or novel cuff trimmings. Hem Tow ro dcup“:a:x’:tah." < 5 > the Tows or mount| waistline, e g Tulle in white, sky blue, clover pink or a pale Nile green is the first choice of the debutante for her gown of gowns—the coming-out frock—which Iater serves as the premier dancing Metal embroidered, printed and plain chiffon, satin, panne velvet, in white or pale pink, sheer metallic brocade, moire and taffetas, are appropriate. Thes> gowns s&re made with the very long skirts, many just escaping the floor. Some of the skirts hang in petal points, others are even all around, while still others are short in the front and slope toward the back where they spread out in peacock fashion, suggesting and even forming & train. * k% % TH! upper parts of these gowns are close fitting to the knees in the princess molding, with the higher waist- line defined by a narrow belt, or by tiny tueks or shirrings. All of the va- rious methods for introducing fullness are seen in the skirts, including circular flounces depending from smooth fitting yokes, layer upon layer of petal-like tlers, godets applied in points, tralling draperies, blas seeming from which drop long ‘nnel.s and poufs and bows posed at hipline, The V-shaped decollgtage still remains the favorite, although it may be squared, rounded or treated diagonally in front, and may be or softened by a scarf in the Flowers and a discreet use of are the only additional trim- gs. horter evening wraps, that can be gathered tight around the hips, are rn- rred to the longer ones. If the lu: fous fur eollar is not desired, there May be & much shirred and puffed col- lgr of the material which is generally lvet, While the wrap may not be of e fabric or even the color of the wn, it will link with it in some way, generally through the lining. Some eyening wraps are made reversible, vel- vet combined with lame, so that they may at least match two gowns. * k% ""3 debutante, who is fashion wisc, | realizes that to be well dressed she ust exercise just as much care n buy- g the accessories to complete her cos- me as the dress or coat. With her tweed ensemble she will nt one of the tweed hats. It may be ® beret or one of the bonnet shapes. And it may be matched to searf and g, one of the frameless shapes with Since bags should be to ghoes, it Is interesting to w that the shoes also may be not ly tweedy in appearance, but actually the same tweed with kid pipings. As a change there are the soft felts th the off-the-face, long sides and ug fitting backs to stamp them as of season. Bnlmll l"l:h" fancies in rontrasting color, such as orange on wn, may hold back the upturned t euff or nestle at the side of the rts jewelry is smart. balls are covered with r and separated by a series of | wooden beads in the natural col- or gilt. There is also a feather ique of duck feathers worked on beads. The sets of necklace and Jet of brown wood and gold beads | 7, an be matched to bags of small brown ?h tnulal! beads strung into the handle. * For more form: on square wooden frames | ym, al town wear with the | LAYER UPON LAYER OF YELLOW TULLE HANGS IN PETAL POINTS TO FORM THE FULL SKIRT OF THE DRESS AT THE LEFT. THE SNUGFITTING YELLOW TAFFETA BODICE 1S BELTED AT THE NEW HIGHER WAISTLINE. RED ROSES FASTEN THE BELT AND ARE SCATTERED OVER THE SKIRT. Those Who Shine Among Friends Are So Dressed That Per- ‘sonality Is Enhanced, Though Observers May Not Realize the Cause. BY HELEN WELSHIMER. “Ruth was certainly the life of the party, wasn't she?” Harry remarked as e and Grace started home. his wife agreed readily enough. “Her clothes did it.” “Her clothes? Absolutely not! It was personality. She sparkled.” He wrinkled his forehead in perplexity. “I haven't the least idea what she was wearing and yet you think cicthes turned the trick. It was blue, wasn't “It was black, beautifully made, and wonderfully becoming. It's the first new dress she's had for ages and how she got it out of her husband, when he y will give her carfare, nobody "Rnows. But that dress was responsible for her sudden flash.” “That dress didn’t have anything to 1do with the way she acted,” Harry still insisted. “‘Anyl you u)_um that woman. “They do! Don't you think every Hm knew that Ruth was the best ressed would think that clothes “make the woman in the room? Don't you think we were envying her the dress — fact, they may even be linked to the | belt'and halr ornament through & tiny siar marcasite ornament. With black antelope shoes black suede gloves—the four-button length that wrinkle over the wrist—are permissible even to the debutante. But with the velvet or crepe afternoon dress, beige suede gloves would be a wiser choice. And these may be slip-ons or gauntlets, Here brown or black moire oxfords are new and right and can be matc to a frameless pouch . The stockings might be the new copper tone and might have & simple clock design. LI O JFOR the evening the debutante has & wide selection of the white stone jewelry now so much in demand— | rhinestones, s, crystal or the new crystal, and ettes. The whiteness is sometimes broken by the bright col- ored stones. Shoulder pins and rings, as well a3 necklaces of varyinz lengt! and strands, cuff or link brace!2ts and ear-} .gnhnmndlnumuny of Footwear for the evening frocks may h«'m.unmwmuhumuut with the frock. e, SR, - B or bla g i . tehed to jewelry l:‘:g y with gold or silver kid colorful ribbon brocade. The stockings are the sheerest of silk in the it the felt hat still holds first place. velvet and felt or all velvet h m'a mw the tmu preferred v ensem| may match the color. Buede or kid formal shoes should and crepe the dress s o goves.” T skin tone. ‘The evening bag may be of gold and col beads on gold cloth with coral handle or a woven pearl pouch Recognize Clothes Value [!ecfl be RIGHT. THE CIRCULAR SKIRT FLARES IN LENG THENED POINTS AT A PLEATED PEPLUM AT THE HIPLINE. A DEBUTANTE MIGHT CHOOSE FOR HER COMING-OUT THE TAFFETA FROCK AT THE THE SIDES AND THERE IS and slippers and hose? And she knew it, too. That made her feel free to get out her little box of arts and use it on all you dear, dumb, masculine things who don’t even know the color of her gown. What ocould I do in a three- year-old dyed crepe or )n;&net mn a dress that started to be orchid and had to stay in the game so long it's adopted lavender? If you can't keep your own sex interested, you needn’t bother about its masculine appendages.” “You were the hit of the evening,” Jack was telling Ruth at exactly the same time. “What was it? Why don’t you always act that way? Honestly, lately you've been like a church mouse.” “My clothes did it,” Ruth answered promptly. “When you look like a church mouse you are inclined to act like one, There is nothing in life that is given away, not even popularity. It has to be dressed.” “If you acted that way just because you bought a new dress, when nobody there knew what you were wearing, you could act as lively in your old clothes, her husband lectured with calm assur- ance, “Honey, do you remember: that Cin- derella couldn’t go to the party just because of her clothes? Or don't they tell that fairy story to little boys?” Ruth asked him, secure in her new- found self-respect which a clhange in raiment had given her. men may sey what they please. but every woman knows that if Cleo- patra hadn’'t worn one more bracelet than the ladies-in-waiting along the sun-tan Nile, she couldn’t have flaunted her superiority before Msre Antony: and if Helen of Troy hadn't had the exclusive use of the best Spartan dress- maker, she wouldn't have paossesse: enough of that sufficient-unto-thyself ;s‘!:l‘:lnce to suggest an elopement to! The importance which women attach to clothes is not a mere subterfuge to attain added charm. It is a necessary armor against the inferiority complex Which a better dressed woman can give them. Husbands would realize on their matrimonial investments if they pro- vided their wives with a dress allowance compatible with their income and ceased to remark at every purchase. Men may not notice clothes, but they notice many other things that result from clothes, and it reflects on a man's glory if his wife is a subdued candle, even as it does if his automobile needs painting. ‘To fall short is as salt in an open wound to any son of Adam. It tells the world that the one whom he has asked to bask in his reflected glory doesn't have a 100 per cent gleam. Hats; Bags, Shoes Match Raincoats d | putting. Housewife Can Control Colds Did it ever occur to you that the habit of having colds in the Winter is usually & matter of bad housekeeping? Or did it ever enter your head that one reason why colds always seem contagious and seem to “go right through a family” is because all mem- bers of the family are subject to the same conditions that gave the cold to the first member who had it? In & measure it is possible for the housewife to create conditions in her household that are unfavorable to colds, just as truly as through carelessness the house- wife and mother can keep her family in a state of almost perpetual colds. In the Summer, windows are open, every one is out of doors much more and so colds disappear. Doctors tell us that diet has a good deal to do with colds. That is, properly nourished people are less subject to colds, generally. Often a child is made subject to a cold because of overeating, The overeating is a tax on his system which renders it less able to throw off cold bacteria when they are present. ‘Thad isn't a scientific explanation, but 1t 1s true none the less. Fresh air is necessary at night, but it is also necessary to have sufficient warm bedclothes when the custom pre- vails of sleeping in cold ooms. Persons are more susceptible to colds who live in houses that are overheated. However, it is also a mistake to let your kouse become chilly. Have a ther- mometer placed in a central place in your living room, 5 feet from the floor, and try to keep it at a good even tem- perature about 68. If you have a convenient place to keep rubbers, umbrellas and other rainy day apparel you will find that members of your family will be less careless in these things on when the weather demands than is the case when to find them means a search through a dozen passible o Hunter’s Green, Dahlia and Red Hunte n is often mentioned this seasox, it has been used success- fully for the formal afternoon ensemble. Mixed green tones are to be found in tweeds for sports and informal day- time wear, and jade or sometimes a greenizh blue of the turquoise sort is combined with black or used alone for evening gowns. Among reds one sees less lacquer red than last season, but there are rusty tones that are combined effectively with browns and beiges in some of the new tweeds. Dahlia—which is & soft plum shade— u‘ J‘lvored for formal ll?:r&.:n ‘wear, with & stronger appeal matron than her daughter. One of the season’s novelties is a two- plece, rainy day sult consisting of & Tubberized jersey skirt and cost of three-quarter length rather than the usual full-length raincoat. The wrap- skirt buttons pro- over ing. It the left side of the front, by means of three buttons, Th be quickly s i studded with blue brilliants, seed pearls and silver TOP, LEFT: THIS VELVET COAT MAY SERVE AS PART OF THE FORMAL AFTERNOON ENSEM- THE SIDE FLARE 1S DERIVED FROM THE CIRCULAR CUT AND BLE OR AS AN EVENING WR THERE IS A SLIGHT NIP-IN AT THE TEN N ) 8, F. SN, RAISED WAISTLINE. THE AT THE CHINCHILLA COLLAR 1S EX. LEFT SIDE." THE SLEEVES ARE FURLESS, BUT TUCK- BOTTOM, LEFT: TO WEAR UNDER CLOTH OR FUR COAT FOR FOOT BALL OR IN TOWN THERE IS THIS WOOL JERSEY DRESS, STRIPED DIAGONALLY IN TAN, RED AND BROWN. THE DIAGONAL TREATMENT AT THE NECK IS EMPHASIZED BY A FLAT BOW, WHICH IS REPEATED ON THE SLEEVES, THE BANDING OF THE SKIRT SIMULATES A YOKE AND WRAP-AROUND SKIRT HAS A FLARE AT ONE SIDE. A BROWN FELT HAT PIPED WITH RED LEATHER COMPIL THIS DEEP RE THE, SNUG-FITTING HIPLINE RIGHT: THIS TAN TW FOR ALL DAYTIME OC THE WAISTLINE. ONE E .TES THE COSTUME. EPE DRESS IS CORRECT FOR FORMAL LUNCHEONS AND TEAS. S GIVEN BY THE GYPSY GIRDLE, ACCENTED BY A BOW OF RED VELVET, BELOW WHICH THE FULLNESS BREAKS FORTH IN TWO BOX-PLEATED FLOUNCES. THE SLIGHTLY FITTED BODICE BLOUSES A LITTLE- AT THE BACK AND A VELVET BOW IS DRAWN THROUGH A STRAP AT THE POINT OF THE V-NECK. THE MATCHING RED HAT HAS A FLAT BOW OF GALYAK AND THE BAG CARRIES OUT THE RED AND BLACK COLOR SCHEME. BOTTOM, ED COAT 1S APPROPRIATE FOR SPORTS EVENTS AND IS ALSO CORRECT SIONS IN TOWN. THE NATURAL LYNX SHAWL COLLAR EXTENDS TO D OF EACH DEEP CUFF WINDS UP OVER THE ELBOW. How to Keep Curtains Clean Here's an idea for keeping your lace or scrim, net or swiss curtains clean: Make one extra pair when you make the curtains. Then each week or each two weeks as necessary, take down one ir of curtains that are beginning to fo‘ox sofled, and put up the extra pair instead. Wash the soiled pair, and have them ready to put up at another window the next week, or the second week after, as necessity indicates, so that another soiled pair may be washed. ‘Thus you always have clean curtains, you never have more than one pair to wash at a time, and you don't have that ugly spectacle of a curtainless house for three or four days while the cur- tains are laundering. ° ‘The only hitch in this plan is that your windows may not all be the same length. In this case you would have to have all the curtains made for the red | longest window, and then when they were used on the shorter windows you could turn over an extra fold and baste it at the top. Or you could have two extra palrs, one for the short windows and one for the lnmr ones. Either way would work out satisfactorily. DEBUTANTES BIOAUII the debutante's life is & continual succession of going and she as if she had been caught between the two, Her hair gets a bit wild, her hat head oes do not look any too well cared for. It is all of these and her pushed too far on the back of her details that affect the appearance of neatness, and the debutante should never neglect even the most minute of these, because no matter how pretty her dresses are she will not wear them to advantage. And there are, by the , some lovely dresses this season that are just the right thing for for vening skirts s0 much thing °f the past, longer than they have been recently, the debutante has gained in dig- has une ‘beauty and charm natural to American girls. There is no place in the world where young girls make Duu lovely picture that they do in this country. RYDEN, Gratitude May Be Taught Favors Done for Self- ish Reasons Con- trasted With Those by Persons Who Show Proper Spirit Toward Others. BY OLIVE ROBERTS BARTON. One day young Amos said, “Mother, I'd like to take Miss Jones a bunch of gladioli tomorrow.” “Very well, only leave me enough !orbn nice bouguet. I'm having the eh The next day: “Amos, you're late. I wanted you to take some ice cream over to grandma. Where on earth have you been?” “Oh, I just stayed in to help Miss Jones. She wanted a lot of old books taken down to the 1 for | the next mother a pink vase from the 5 and| . that was very faithful in his attentions. The refrigerator gave up its choicest fruits. ‘The last handful of bachelor buttons, snatched hastily from the path of a killing frost, and set triumphantly on the dining room table, disappeared sus- fldouuy the next morning at break- ast. Everything the boy could lay hands on was taken to the new teacher. The family was comple mother knew, but she her time. Lessons harder. Night work was shorter and| is light enough Miss Jones' influence, his mother noticed, was getting a bit thin. Au- tumn advanced and now the fruit in the refrigerator lay unmolested. One sad night Amos slid down in his chair, stuck out his lips, and de-|to clared that “old Jones made him sick!" Now, decided his mother, is the time and the place. She laid down her book and spoke. ‘“Take your backbone off that chair seat and prop it up where it belongs and listen. I have some- thing to say to you, young man. “At the ing of the term you always storm & new teacher with your attentions at a time when you are a complete stranger to her and she to you. “Later, after she has worried and worked over you for weeks, you begin call names. “I'm here to tell you before you get any older that there are two kinds of mplu in the world, One does favors ause he wishes to ingratiate himself with others—to get into their good graces. The other kind of persons does favors out of gratitude. "T’n" which class do you want to be- result was rather amaszing. For afternoon Amos brought his 10 cent store, “You do more for me than any one,” he said awk: “Thanks!” and he 't astonished R Children do a lot of thinking for themselves about things lve them a tip as Amos’ wise mother did. > Just what is dahlia color, anyway? Every one knows that it is fashionable, but few have a definite idea of what the real dahlia tone is. The truth of the matter is that there are many authentic dahlia ant sometimes it is a rich plum, again al- most a Burgundy shade. Sometimes it to be accurately de- Wools Are Taken Lightly in Present Styles — Tweed and Jersey Are Favorites for Season — They Come in Thin Weaves for Dresses. Broadcloth Is Also in the Mode—Selec- tions for the Woman Who Still Prefers Silk. BY MARY MARSHALL. HE Autumn of 1929 may well be remembered as the season of tweeds, and doubtless the su- remacy of tweeds will last the Wln},er‘lntd spnn.'l. possibly ust at present, however, fashion seems to be possessed with s sort of tweed complex. Not only does she prescribe tweeds for almost every occasion short of evening wear, but she gives a tweed aspect to other materials. Silks and jerseys bask in the reflected glory of tweeds when they are printed or flecked to look like tweeds. There are heavy, very warm tweeds for Win- ter coats, somewhat lighter tweeds for suits, and thin tweeds, sometimes run with a thread of sjlk, for blouses and dresses. ‘There are tweeds that follow the tradition of the old-time tweeds, so far as coloring and weave are concerned, only that they are softer and more pliant. There are tweeds that de] comp’~tely from the old traditions, tweeds of three or four color tones, and tweeds of solid color. All-black tweed has come into great favor. ‘You may buy two tweeds of the same design, one heavy for the coat and the other lighter in weight for the dress or suit, to used together in making a Winter ensemble. There are tweeds with companionate jerseys, identical as to color and general appearance—tweed for the suit and jersey for the blouse. * % ok K POBSIBLY it is because jerseys may be made to look like tweed so suc- cessfully that they have come into prominence this season. For jersey is the favored material for the light-weight - me' 'emur in one or two iece devel ent. 3 Broadcloth has been revived and is decidedly smart for afternoon. The black broadcloth ensemble—with three- quarter cr seven-eighth coat, the new longer skirt—is smartly worn with a white satin blouse for many formal afternoon occasjons. * k k woox.. crepe is another material that has come into prominence and is ly interesting in biack. Inter- materials are smartest in all black, despite the continued comment on return of colors to favor. ‘Woolen materials have won much within recent seasons and many ‘women who once would have refused to wear a dress or blouse of wool have for- tten their prejudices. This is due to he fact that woolens now may be had in the lightest, softest texture and some of the fine jerseys are made with a soft reverse side that is every bit as comfortable as silk. For the woman who still prefers silk —there are crepe de chine never goes out of favor, canton crepe and satin crepe, For evening as well as for the more formal afternoon wear velvets are de- cidedly good, but fortunately there is less of the spirit of velvet at any price this season than there was last year. If you cannot afford a really vel- vet—and the good velvets are ly ex- pensive—there are plenty of other mate- rials to choose from. In evening dress es the mate- there are as 3 many smart fashions that demand silk net or taffeta or satin crepe or chiffon as velvet. (Copyright, 1929.) Get Expert Finish For Boy’s Suit There is an idea for the making of the little boy's suits. Remembe; o m longer. suit, eyelet holes for lacings and buttonholes worked for you at a trimming shop where such things are done. Sometimes the woman not skillful in these particular kinds of trimming hesi- tates about making suits for her little son just because of this fact. She can sew the small seams quite neatly; she can cut and fit and make the little suits as skillfully as those she could buy are made, but she can't do those technical bits of finishing. Here is another thing to remember. Shrink all material before you cut it. Little cotton and linen suits shrink so astoundingly in the course of their first laundering, if they have not been shrunk, that the trouble and delay in attending to this are worth while. Another thing: Never plan to make 8 small boy’s suit of very fragile material, Stout material wears so much better. If you make a smock of thin crepe, at least make the trousers of a he: crepe. With the thin pongee smock there should be heavy pongee suiting trousers. And for many small boys, who are active and cannot remember to be care- ful about their clothes, it is just as well not to make cuffs of white. They are solled the minute after they are put on. d | this season The white collar is all right, but a cuff of the material of the jacket or blouse is better. —_— Easy Mending. The actual mending is only half of the difficulty. Getting the mending equipment together and getting down the mending is the other half. ‘When one wears unmended clothes it is usually because they were over- looked when put away, and forgotten until time to put them on. Then time was limited. To mend them meant to find a needle and thimble, the right color thread, perhaps a but- ton, a hook and eye or a tape. These things would take time, and so the garment has to be worn unmended. Especially if you dislike mending and sewing generally have your mending equipment placed very conveniently. A good idea is to have a mending corner in your room. This should be where the light is good by day or night. A little table or stand should serve to hold your equipment, and there should be a small chair for your convenience. In the top drawer of your stand have a spool case, or the case may rest on top of the s ‘These Ty make ane by driving long. nais may a n e :.na nameling 1:‘ e white or colored enamel. can be on More Squirrels Are Now Needed ‘With longer skirts, enormous collars and the new bell cuffs, it takes con- siderably more skins to make a fur coat than it did last .