Evening Star Newspaper, July 25, 1926, Page 79

Both Designers and BY MARY MARSHALL. PARIS. ASHIONS change by a process of evolution. The survival of the fittest and the elimination of the unfit take place in the natural history of clothes even more obviously than in the history of plant and animal life. Now is the time—during July and August—when these evolutionary processes are most potent. Adaptation and elimination are evervwhere going on. During the short days and the long nights of the Winter the great de- signers were working out new ideas for women's Spring and Summer clothes. They were making guesses concerning what women would like to wear and would find convenient to wear six months later. The changes in fashions that were manifested In the frocks and wraps and hats they produced might be compared to the natural ‘variations that the old-time evolutionists talked so much about. Later, when buyers and manufac- turers began to buy models from the great dressmakers, the selective pro- cess wa® beginning. It continued when the women themselves made their selections. It was not until ENSEMBLE OF GEORGETTE IN BEIGE, TRIMMED WITH FINE TUCKS. WITH IT IS WORN A LARGE HAT AND A BLACK TAFFETA PARASOL. these processes were at their height. Some of the new fashions produced by the designers were nipped in the bud—in their own showrooms. Others lingered for a while in the hands of the clothes manufacturers who still had faith in their ultimate survival Others persisted through the ear weeks of the Summer—but the warm, vital holiday season has brought and 1= still bringing the final test of fitness. There are always some hats and some frocks even in the wardrobe of the woman of limited means which are worn only a few times. They look well enough and seemed sultable and | wearable when they were bought, but | when holiday time comes they are | neglected. Sleeves have been the subject of | much speculation all Summer. Many | of the dressmakers felt that the time | was ripe for A return to fashion of | elaborate arm coverings. Frocks wece | made with wu varlety of sleeves— | sleeves that were close 4nd tight ail | the way down, sleeves that were| puffed from the shoulder to the wris sleeves that were close to the elbo and flared of puffed below, sleeves | with flaring cuffs at the wrists and | sleeves with flares somewhere be- | tween wrist and elbow. No type of | sleeve was ignored, | Certain shrewd French dressmakers felt that the time was not ripe for all | this elaboration of sleeves. Perhaps | reassured when women ordered at all. They were numbers of smart sleeveless frocks. In England there has been a per- | mistent effort to bring back the | gleeve. T.ots of well dressed women | want to wear sleeves, But the French | i dressmakers — most of them hold the opinion that an elabe sleeve does not go with the sort of frocks we are wearing. And this matter of sleeves is being put the test—with the result that sleeveless frock for day: almost as much wor Many women are h; taken out of their to want to cover their arms ‘There has been an interesting duel | this between large hats and small hats Early in_ the Summer the brimmed hat was decidedly rare in Paris. Certain smart women wore them but the majority of Wwomen clung to the small, close hat. Fnglish in wide-brimmed garden-party anyway, greeted the larger hat instant approval. English women trimmed hats, i0o, and the wide hrimmed hat seemed to offer more opportunity for trimming than the 1ttle cne. It frequently happens, you with e now | barous wide- | women dld not want to wear sleeves | Women, who always fancy themselves | pats| | HE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. now | know. that an English woman will buy ate | a. hat in Paris, take it home acro: hannel and add trimmings—a bar- | procedure according to the French modiste who has made the hat the the | French women, on the other hand ime wear is | seem to think that in order to hold | 'n as it ever was. | fts own beside the trim, small hat a aving the’ sleeved | large hat [must be supremely rocks—because | A single flower or two, a dr they find that after-all they do not : feather, or hetter still, a band of rib: | bon with a loop or how at one side dmple. is all_the trimming that large hat should have. ] There hag been smart competition | batween plain fabrics and figured fab. | rics nd the competition is still on. It seems probable that it will end in a tie. Some of the smartest French dressmakers assure yvou that the fig ured material is no longer really shionable. Little Summer froc are made of crepe de chine charm- ingly but simply adorned with fine hand hemstitching, or of georgetie more elaborately embroidered with | silk stitches, with wouden or crystal | your | m "o C., JULY 2 o AT LEFT. RED VELVETEEN~ JACKET WITH BRASS BUTTONS 1S WORN WITH WHITE CREPE DE CHINE FROCK. AND AT RIGHT IS A NAVY BLUE AND WHITE _CREPE DE CHINE FROCK WITH WHITE COLLAR AND BLUE BELT. The mark of real-distinction, ay, consist® of the fine hand- It is only for those who can- v afford this handwork that the printed materials are used. On the other hand, there are some delightful frocks of figured materials to be seen at some of the best estab- lishments and many women of good taste wear them. Bordered materials are still used and these are a godsend to the woman who wants to add a frock or two to her wardrobe at small expense, She can put one together in | a few hours. You will find these of cotton voile—quite inexpensive, More expensive but very attractive are the materials of embroidered de chine, beads. they work. crepe i3 lace by the yard—| ade with a flare at one end—and this shows heavy ‘embroidery in silk match the lace. Just now these laces ip htavy mesh jn string color or in a light bois de rose are much admired en « for frocks that quite simply. wool in green h | dark and light gra hottom. b horder | front you buy a length containing There are light-weight wool- | the same horder with , 1926—PART 5. je=——m PINK CHIFFON FROCK EMBRO CAPE IN THE SAME SHADE. TRIMMED WITH A F BLACK LACE FROCK OVER BLACK SLIP, WITH SASH AND TRIMMINC CHIFFON, IDERED IN PINK AND CRYSTAL 'R COLLAR DY BEADS. Wearers of Paris Garments Decide Fashion wrlse 23 THERE 1S A TAFFETA AT RIGHT. THIN IRT OF WHITE TO MATC ON materials for cooler weather or resorts made up into lengths ean he put together coarse, light-welght a tapestry design in and green at the Sometimes one length is hought for the back containing only a ornamentation, while for the “ooler A an elahorate em- | | broidered design extending from the bodice down the skirt. Combinations of hlack and white | have proved to he ve yod for Sun | mer wear. _One or two leading French dresmakers always use two fabrics for | this purpose—avoiding the printed | effects in black and white. That is, they will use black crepe de chine with panel, border or lining of whit jowever, there are lovely printed ma- V | terials from which the magpie gowif? | can he easily constructed. Whitmnt crepe de chine with a black bordef™ {lends itself to many smart arrange- ments, The printed cotton voiles in Par show enormous rose designs and these have turned out to be extremely well | liked for Summer afternoons and ever; mings at the holiday resorts, 2 (Conyrizht, 1026.) women went off on their holidays that Things Which Are of Interest to The Puzzlers BY CECILLE LYON. Jocko, come in and bow! “Who is Jocko?" the puzziers ask. He is the first character, representing an ape, to join our Cross Word Puzzle Zoo. Every week we will fmport from the wilds of Africa another animal— selecting one to represent every let- ter in the alphabet. The name of this animal will be concealed in the puzzie. 1 This 1s Number Two Horizontal. Definitions. Horlzontal. | Ananimal. Ahove, A 8hurt term transportation. 0. Study 10. A g o 12, Consamed, 14, snakelike fish. Pertaining to the Navy. Chemicals. Package of yarn I Toward. Upon. Printer's meusure. Pigpen. Mining product. Vertical. for a means of drawing A site. To make as required. Thinnet than air. Belonging to us. Foxy. Insect. Before. To stres Finish. 1 anind To ling . i s No. 17 vertical. name. City in northern > P rth America Ghiess ‘t)ils seven-word diamond. 4 Fill the blanks in this sentence with two words of different spellings, but like ‘pronunciation “The donkey stopped him so she could —— hair.” b as the milkmaid her Start a Zoo. g GUESS-THIS-THREE \WORD SQUARE and | get Behead twice “to be in fc get u revolt; behead n: help. Answers, The words in the Zle are: Horizontul- 2, 5, onths; 7, up; 8, el; 9 arl {nte: 14, eel; 16, naval; 1 | skein; me; 23, 5 27, ore. ether 12, accent; 13, 17, 18, aw; crors word ap | pu |26, st adapt 1, e loiter: Nome. 2. The word diamond | wiges, fireman. terau, | 3 SR 4l 19, is: n. square is: Af-raid. About 6ur Fets. This Pet Is &n Orator. Frances Zisseler of Delaware, Ohio. possesses a very strange pet. It is a very handsome white cockatoo, at one time a native of Australia. “She has lowned Bobby for four years and| in that time ke haa learned to talk. When any one opens the door to come into the room, Bobby will say. “Get lout of here, you had ho ie also | says: “Good-hy, ‘dear”; “Mother's dear hoy,” and “What are you doin mother?” Tle plays hide nnd see too. nees savs that o when she stands 1ext to his cage and whistles Bobby will dance along on the perch. We have heard of many different kinds of pets, hut Bobby certalnly is 1 interesting and somewhat unusual { one, Caruso Bite Out in Tacoina, Wash., we have an. other great Caruso. He is a canar owned. by Katheriné ‘and Tuth Ma- paffay. When one of the girls comes 1p to the cage .he will fly around and | {peck at her fingers or even her nose. | {if she is ciose enough, fhrough the | bars of the cage. | Katherine and Ruth write that they | ive not afraid of their singing pet and | will let him nite them, as he does not hurt them. The canary will answer it | needed Frogtown Camp Found in Repose As Athletes Rest From Training Old Man Tuftle, coach of the Frog- | frogs town_athletes, de ided that his puy some rest after Theretore today strenuous tradning, we find :sm(“ e in front of air mail Il of he receiving their “taking their tents. 1 pilot, is just campers uare eagerl letters. Old Man Turtle, who is an indus- trious soul, is taking advantage of the lull in ecamp activities to read some heavy litergture, but a couple of the younger frogs, not content to est, are busily engaged in & m catch.” And, thinks Old Mxn tle, If they are overtrained for the great track meet it will be thelr own fault. . until some one. answers it, "The girls say that Caruso makes a very de. Hghtful and lively companton, This Cat Likes Goldfish. Patricin Blizabeth McOwen of Salt Lake City, Utah, is the proud owrier of a black and white Angora cat, Puss, as he is named, i a very un- usual cat: beeanse he will jump up on he window sill, where the goldfish are kept. (1 his paws into the water ney(r ‘v to hurt the little fich. Paeieby goes ot of doors skats Puss. will lle: Qown on the side. walk in front of her. He 'knows she will not harm him’ in any w. The gny one calls to hi and when the telephone rings he WAl whistle and fiy from perch te perch in his cage cat always folds in his claws when he plays with her; so I | Patricia tells us that she de- lights in ‘“showing off” Puss to her friends. A clever playfellow like this is well worth showing off. Meet Brent's Fox Terrier, her, i little fox tervier. He says that his dog is one of the very hest of its kind. It ean sig up, beg for its dnner and A0 all the tricks which’ “ordinar; dogs vah do. At 1 v'clock,” when Brent. comes heme froth sehool for junch, the dpg will scratel on the door until Brent's mother [éts him Brent Robinson of Ogden, Utah, hnnl much the same thing, ‘but he Is sure that Lis little yet is better than “just a dog. Why Reg for a Whipping? Emmeline King of _ Springfield, Mass., has a toy Pomeranian for a pet. ~The dog’s two front paws are tan in color and the rest of her body is black. In the evening when F meline_goes to gét the paper the dog goas with her nhd carries it back to the house in her mouth. If she does something which is not right, she will roll over on the floor two or tHree ‘out, so that can race down the he cannot scratch'! he supposes - everybody’ street to m rent. Brent says that ‘s dog does S times, and Emmeline says that this ja the way she shows that she de- serves a whipping. Bon st Head of the Class. “8tan,” explained the . teachér, ‘“‘means the place of Afghanistan is the placeof the Afghans—where they are located, you see. Ilindustan is the plice of the Hindoos. Can any one give me another example? How about you, James?’ “Umbreliastan,’™ suggested James promptly, “the place for umbrella 5 it Caught Aguin hrflulb—"f)lll. sy, h‘ “pulled Toff some- thing, big last night. Cl"incp——y\i‘m: ‘Younger Readers The Story of The hikers emerged from the needle carpet of the old Indlan trail to find an open space that ended in a flat table rock extending over the valley below. The hoys dropped their Kits ‘and, as twilight fell. they built A roaring fire on the rock and made coffee and roasted steak. As they sat in a circle on the gr rock, munching buns and pickles, Frank leaned out over the edge and peered far below. “There is a road down there!” he exclaimed {can bardly see it in the dar “When the moon comes up yvou can see it plainly.” replied the hi ing leader. “And then vou will h the voice of 4 dead Indian maiden calling to the spirit of her Indian | bridegroom.” | The boys shivered and Frank drew | back cautiously, as if he ‘were afraid of slipping over the precipice. “Tell {us about it,” they hegzed “There was once an Indian hrave, | began the leader, “who lived here in {this countr He wished to | the daughter of the chief of the The old chief suid he might n | his daughter only on the conilition that the youth would rid the nation of the enemy chief who sent war viors to rob and murder the people here. S0 the Indian lad stole to the neighboring nation and killed the chief, were too cowardly to make war the pevple here, but they v ibe. on pledged . marry | 'l The followers of the dead man | B¢ oN. cased Lover’s Leap. themselves to vengeance and a hand of them took refuge in these woods 4 to await an opportunity-at the yourg™® | man’s life. ¥ “One evening as the Indian prin:. | cess was walking here in the twilight® | she spied the™band of enemies making & for the pass at the end of the trail) | below. She knew her lover would saon be passing on the road and. would be met by the band and killed.; {1t was two miles around by the read.s {and she would not have time to cateh 4 {him and warn him. So she crept to the edge of the rock here and waited in the moonlight. She epied the o b emies creeping into the mouth of ie pass. In a few minutes she saw the Indian boy come down the path hé& ™ | low b “What did she do?" whispered tha | boys. - | i*She leaped from the rock and (eI those hundreds of feet and with her”, dying breath warned her bridezroam. that his enemies waited for him?" - 3 “Do you suppose it's true?” askgfles Frank in an voice. iz | “Listent” veplied the story teller; Up in the valley swept the wind and | from the roeks upposite |ing cry. Then there fery as the wind rashe | "It 18 the scream maiden, they say, brave answering. “Then it must be true’ the boys, with round eyes. awed wis olit the her Indian Indtan declared Posers Boys and girls who like tq test their knowledge can find & lot of fun this set of posers. Imagine that these questfons were asked of you in an ex amination—what would your grade he? You ought to answer five or six pass. Let's see what kind of a:grs | you would make; 1, What recent British premier was once a Welsh miner? 2. What early American was killed in a duel by Aaron Burr? 3. Who wrote “Vanity Fair?" 4. How many sheets of paper are there in a qui; 5. What is the largest city on the continent of Europe? 6. What is the alimentary canal? 7. Who was Mars? 8. What city is the capital of Aus, tria? X Answers. . David Lloyd George. Alexander Hamiiton. ‘Willlam Makepeace Thackeray. Twenty-fou! . Parls, Franc i . The muin part of the digestive system, including the mwuth, stotnach and intestines. 7. God of War ology. 8. Vienna. A Mouthful. Mary had & Mttle lamb, You've heard this tale before; But have you heard she passed her plate And had a little more? in Roman myth- The Retort Irascible. Mike (buried in cavé.in)-~Blazes, man, be cavefnl how you handle that shovel. You hit my leg twice. Pat—Say, if you can do this an: better, come up here and dig youl self out, Not a Candidate. An Ttalian, having applied for Amer- fcan eitizenship, was being examined in the naturalization court “Who is President of the El United tr. Conlidge.” Vho is Vice President?” “Mr Daw.™ ‘ould you be President?” b2y Why? “'Mister, you 'scuse me, vera busy works da- mine.” please; 1 e e Caught. She—I'll bet.I know where you got your tie. He—TI'll het my last cent yeu don't. She—Around your neck, you dumb- { bell, I'VE & CAMP(NG TENT S0 WARM 2 (YA0E OF BED CLOTHES CER MV HEAD, NEITHERWINO AAIN CAN AARM Taeir X | TENTS / (™ BEO. J |