Evening Star Newspaper, March 30, 1930, Page 53

Smart Street Dress LOHG skirts, uneven hemlines, points, draperies, trains and what you will for the evening, but for the Street clothes are standardized dress revolution of September, It is true that the general lengt] 1t was a year ago. be straight around. For the past few years it has street—no, no, no. A\t as much as they were before 192] h 18 from 4 to 6 inches greater than For day wear the hemline of suits and dresses should been comparatively easy to be well dressed because there was not the difference between street and “dress” clothes that there is now Thre is more opportunity now more thought should be given to to do the wrong thing. Therefore selection. Dresses are designed for certain occasions and if they are worn at other times they are inappro- priate. For instance a crepe dress, hanging almost to the ground on one side, is very lovely at tea time at home or for dining in a restaurant. That is what such a dress was int shopping or, worse still, to wear in ended for; it was never meant for an office. A good many women have gone a bit too far this Winter on the clothes question. They have felt that all_traditions were dashed aside— that it was a scrt of free-for-all ra ce. But it is not. There are still rules pertaining to street clothes and if one wants to be considered “in the know" one mu: New Designs Are| Either Very Mascu-| line or Very Fem-| inine—latter Is Very Much in the Picture, This Season—Every| Dress Must Have An| Outer Wrap of Its Own — Even Furs Are More Formal. BY HELEN DRYDEN. \HE new suits are either very masculine or very feminine in their make-up, and there are many variations of each type. | If you go back to the days when the suit was the one and only well regu- lated street costume, and if you have kept your figure under control, you may rejoice in the strictly tailored suit. To be regulation it should have the padded shoulders of the English coats with the waistline well defined. It may be either single or double breasted, but usually has several buttons, instead of the one link clasing of the Jess tailored suit. Notched collar, mannish cuffs, wrap-around or slightly skirt achieving just the merest at the hem—all are e‘:lunn“z of this, the most e suits. novelty light-weight 0ld | cashm shirt as precisely tailored and trim as & man’s, made of silk shirting, shan- tung, sudanette, linen or pique. Some even have the tucked bosoms the men affect for informal evening dress. One may. however, want something more feminine and wear a frilled blouse. thicknesses of chiffon represent the newest idea, and plaids, checks and dots are preferred. * % ¥ % IP you haven't diseiplined your figure and there are defects o be slurred over, the dressmaker type of suit will appeal to you. it is the fem- scarfs, and revers, fur and other un- usual touches which add to the pret- tiness of the costume. Here in the skirt you will find pleats —sometimes concentrated to give move- ment to the front, l'fih in both the front and back with sides stry it, and still again combined with ts res. These pleats are of many ranging from wide box pleats to unpressed pleats, which are so effective and soft in the more supple fabrics. ‘While these pleated sections are kept well to the bottom of the skirt, there is & tendency to start the fullness from the waistline. This permits some of the | new skirts to be mounted on elastic | | rics, also taffetas, of navy, st abide by these rules. HELEN DRYDEN. bands with sufficient fullness allowed so_that they are adjustable. These suits you may select either in wool or silk and later on in cotton, for cottons are coming to town this Spring by way of tailormades for the street. The more loosely woven, sup- ple tweeds, light-weight woolens such as wool crepes and novelties, soft cash- meres and certain silk and wool novel- ties, all are used for suits with these softening, feminine touches. e w T is in silks, either plain or printed, that suits are seen at their best. Crepe is the favorite medium. There are a few failles among the fab- black or brown, and some shantumgs. Suits of printed silks are quite as | numerous as those of solid colors. The | three pieces, skirt, blouse and jacket, | may be of the same print, or the blouse | may be of a companion print, a white background dotted in black to be worn with skirt and jacket of the black | ground sprinkled over with white dots. Other companion print ideas show the same d in different textures, crepe and chiffon, for example, and in reverse color cmobinations. One still sees that popular combination of printed silk in the blouse matched to the lining of the | coat. | * ok x % | WI-HLE the suit is new and dominant, it has not by any means banished the dress and coat combination. For | every dress this Spring must have an | outer wrap of its own. It may be & long coat, a short jacket, a cape, or ;;en :Rg:‘:chlb:e bolero, but €0 must appesr on The one exception is the coat this Jooks so much like & it can pass for one. As es are more formal than suits, for the dress is formal than the skirt The fabric, too, is woolen, ere, or silk. Very wool are combined, as where a printed with a long coat of a matching in color the print. These coats may be three-quarters or even They are somewhat fitted, cut on princess I flare, produced by And there i fit 1 1 i 2, JEE il serve ms sleeves, thus giving ment all the jauntiness of & caj * %% % PHE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, MARCH 30, 1930—PART THREE. Two Types of Suits Contend for Favor, With Many Variations A light-weight wool, such wool crepe, in the new bright blue, is a preferred fabric for the dressmaker type of suit. Inverted pleats gi the right flare to the skirt. - The jacket fastens casually with a tie belt, revealing the bloute of blue and white eyelet embroidered batiste. The formal street costume has a fulllength coat of black broadeloth with shoulder cape reaching to the elbows. The diagonal closing produces a slight flare at the hem. The American broadtail scarf is detachable. The two-tone print in shades of purple is featured in this dressmaker suit consisting of dress and capelet jacket. ‘All the Powers of the Fashion World Are Out to Contribute to Beauty of Spring Brides of 1930. Clothes That Reflect - Latest Modes Are to Be in Good Style for Many Months. BY MARY MARSHALL. T 1S the bridegroom, not the bride, to whom one should murmur words TheA "B &' of ‘wedding icuetin 's of W etiquette, based, of course, on the cherished belief that the bridegroom has finally succeeded in leading his lovely bride to the altar as the result of surmounting all sorts of protests and obstacles. Still we offer the bride con- gratulations, not, of course, on the fact that she is heing married—we merely offer her felicitations about that—but on the fact that she is being married this Spring of 1930, when designers and experts and all the other powers that be in the fashion world seem to have conspired to make bridal dresses lovely and to make the bride's trousseau all that it should be. From a practical standpoint, this sea~ | son’s bride has an advantage over the | bride of last season, who now finds that | not a stitch in her whole trousseau can be worn without drastic alterations this season. This season’s bride may rest | assured that clothes that reflect the latest fashions now will be in good style for many months to come. She is, a8 | it were, coming in on the ground floor | of the new mode. Skirts are not ex- | pected to change either in length or silhouette for some time to come, and | the raised, well defined waistline still is | too new to be cast into the discard of The skirt flares from the waist in the mew way, repeating the flare of the jacket. back, that we find the signs of the more formal the garment. Bows, elbows and three-quarter featured on short capelets, boleros, peplums, Bree sleeves, all are Jackets, which the flare of the bolero repeated in the fullness of the peplum or the peplum of the jacket accented by a tiaring tier on the skirt of the dress. Many of these 1 little jackets are collarless, the lingerie collar of the dress serving as a finish to the coat. (Copyright, 1930.) Mother’s Patience Needed Doris and Her Music! Lesson Prove to Be Household Problem.| Rushing Dinner While Daughter PracticesWithout Interest in Her Work. BY OLIVE ROBERTS BARTON. DORIS sat down to practice her music | lesson—rather, she flopped down with a bang that sent the exercise book | toppling over on the keys with a crash. | “Doris! Aren't you ashamed!"—voice from the kitchen—“acting like that!"” “I didn't do it on purpose. That was the old book that fell.” “All right, but don’t sit there all day now trying to get up courage. BStart right in. I've got my eye on the clock out here and it's right. It's a quarter after four now and you sit there till a uarter after five.” b Doris sat for a minute letting her thoughts trail off to dinner. She was hungry. Gee! She'd meant to go down to the cellar and get a aice cold Spy to eat, and she'd forgotten, “Dor-ris! What on earth are you 7 Five minutes are gone. Now we'll have to count from 20 on. It's 20 after now. Hurry!” “Do-me-sol-do-sol-mi-do!" echoed out to the kitchen. about 10 times over. The lady of the house nodded com- tly. This time she had propped the door open. The pianist who had played for the club that momning Cchanged features, There was Doris up on the platform smiling and bowing when it was over, and all the club ladies applauding. “Do - mi - sol - do - sol - mi - do!" Say, wasn't that just the review, the old les- son? It certainly was. She glanced at the clock. Half-past! Well, perhaps it was all right, only when the child knew it, why didn't she go on with the new lesson? Miss Skinner had positively said that the scales were the most important and the next lesson was scales with that fingering you had to watch so., There! She'd stopped. Now she’d be at it right. “Do-me-sol-do-sol-mi-do!” The same :hing over again, only different. Oh, she was trying it a scale higher. Experi- menting. That was being original, wasn't it? Perhaps Doris would be a composer. More money in that. “Do-me-sol-do-sol-mi-do.” This time a music box tinkle. Doris still explor- ing. “Dor-ris! It's 20 to and you haven't touched that new lesson.” | “I'm just commencing. I'm looking ‘IOT the—Oh, mother, I forgot! Miss Skinner didn’t give me a new lesson in this big book. It was a special little paper book I brought home. Did you see it? I put it right on the table here ” “Lands! Among all those old maga- zines! I threw most of them out this morning and I suppose it went, too. You look while I get these potatoes on. No, | T'll look. If you're ever going to get any practicing in before supper—itll have to | turn up in a hurry. Well, here it is. I | declare! That's luck! Now hurry up, | dear, and try to get in a good half hour. There {sn't much more time left. Dad has to go to lodge and he wants supper on_time sharp.” | " In the 20 minutes following Spot had | to be let out, Doris made a trip or two to the second floor, the light wasn't right and a lamp had to be dragged nearer to the piano, and the plug inci- dentally attached to another switch, all of which took much, inuch time; and that wasn't the half of it, my dear. At dinner Mr. Dunkle asked, “Practice today, Doris?” “Yes, sir!” | «How long?” ! “An heur!” seid Doris piously. Color Emphasis in Jewelry JIW!LR-Y is the little chameleon in the world of dress. It changes its color, shape and gen- eral appearance each time fashions change. A season ago, blatant, gaudy modern- istic jewelry splashed its colors, deco- rative motif and its jazzy tone right down the front and around the wrists of the plain, unadorned costumes of those days. Earrings jangled, and everything was obvious. Now, with the lady era in, jewelry artistic, delicate, rather lacy and tel-colored, when it is not black or te. Spring costume jewelry is apt to be colored, instead of gold, and floral motifs are quite the most appropriate. TWO are better than one, in mmLtm ces. An eveningnecklace has half pearls, half jet, with the black- white meeting in the center front and . Pearls combine with rondelles of marcasite and ruby or em- erald-colored stones, and for suit wear a very new twisted rope necklace is made of beige and brown wooden beads. Pastel-colored glass jewelry is very smart h Summer costumes and for evening. Crystal, cut in make some of the sweetest of these, and baby blue and flesh pi ar preferred colors. ‘Two bracelets are better one, O & |6 0 <24\ : ALY \' Left: A short flaring jacket is worn on the street with the dress of black, orange and beige printed crepe. The bodice is joined to the skirt, giving the appearance of a tuck-in blouse, and is softened with a ruffie of the print. Circular seetions applied in points lend flare to the skirt. Center: Flat crepes in plain colors are the popular choice for the dressmaker type of suits. Pleats bring the fullness to the front of the skirt, and the circular ruffle, which serves as a capelet, adds softness to the straight belted jacket. Right: Black is still smart for the street. With this flat crepe suit is worn a white flat crepe blouse, femininized by drawn work. Pleated gores show the new idea of achieving the flare in the skirt. also, and the chic woman wears both on the same wrist, one above the other. Bracelets are the coming jewelry, urged to more diverse forms by the new three- quarter and elbow sleeves. A neat pair |red of bracelets for evening is made of marcasite and emeralds in one, and pearls and rubies with some rhinestones in the other. A ruby ring edged with baguettes is used with a m‘:fi. vanity case with black and diamond trim. of jewelry include “clips,” wmmm&uufi.mu Earrings have grown demure, with hoops of real stones quite the idea of smart women, but delicate hoops of rhinestones and colored stones take th | their place in most instances. A pair of these hoops features diamonds and rubles and they are uemendomdg effec- tive. To go with these, a ruby rimg with baguettes adds a modern touch in its setting and is twice modern when accompanied by a scarlet enamel vanity running scross [ case which uses black and dlamond it at Anmvm‘ °}l l:.flec:uve and very | trim. i how. § oeh and| Pendants of huge proportions and 8 beit buckle 85 effec- | original design in the shape of jeweled tive and unusual ensemble. hands, jeweled flower ts, modern cathedral design and even doorways, swing from slender black ribbons or from gold or platinum chains. But|And many women now prefer brooches. Some of the new pastel-colored prystal makes effective pendants or brooches for cus- fume gowns that are designed to set off these ornaments. One of the pret- tiest of these is a lavender prystal and onyx pendant, set in white gold, which goes with a smoky lavender chif- fon _gown. There is a lot of costume jewelry in modified modernistic design left, One ttern fre Paris is of pink prystal, modernistic , with gold, which is tremendously effective and Spring Draperies Are New and Unusual. Cretonnes Show Much Variation.| There Is Something | | for Every Taste and| Every Color Scheme. | Shops Hold Array Big, Georgeous Pat- terns, and Others for dgl 2 Differing Tastes. BY BETSY CALLISTER. PRING seems to call for new | draperies and cushions. For two reasons. The heavier things of | Winter seem too heavy when the | weather becomes warm and we | compare them with cretonnes and mus- lins and voiles. And, if the Winter draperies are of expensive silk or velvet, Summer _dust sunshine may do | them harm. Thus can we reason that it is eco- nomical to have different hangings for Winter and Summer. A complete set | of cretonne window curtains, slips and cushions is economy. And, so.reason- | ing, we can start forth with a free con-\ science and an open pufse. | The shops surely hold a tempting as- sortment of cretonnes to choose from this season. They are always attrac- tive, of course. But this year, because it is this year, we Mke them better. Our taste changes with the rest of the world and the cretonne of the moment usually appeals to us. * %k ¥ & NE really good thing about this | year's crop of cretonnes is that they are varied. There are big and little patterns, bright colors and muted | ! colors—as the dressmakers call the | softened, powdery shades of color that| they use this year. So there is some- | thing to suit all taste, all demand. If| your house is b'g and gorgeous, there | are big and gorgeous patterns. If it is| small and dainty, then small and dainty | patterns. If it is modern, you can| find cretonnes printed in the most | modern of designs. And then period | cretonnes of all sorts come for the period rooms. It's a case of pay your money and take vour choice. The wise woman, of course, works out a color scheme for each room, and in some cases, if the house is small, harmonizes the color scheme for the whole house. Not until her color scheme is well in her mind | does she start forth for her cretonnes Then she shops until she finds just the right combination of colors. . | THERE is another way. And that| is to start out with the cretonne | you like as the basis of your color| scheme You can then develop a color | scheme for a room from the colors | harmoniously and effectively used in| your bit of cretonne. Very often the best way to find out | if one design or another suits you is to buy enough of the pattern to make a cushion. Take it home and hang| it at your window, it over a! chair, hang it on the wall. | all lights and all positions, before you | finally decide whether or not to use it.| Then, if you do decide to use it, you have wasted nothing, for you can use the sample to cover a cushion. If you decide not to use it. you have wasted little, for you have spent only the price of a small length of the material. you can use that, doubtless, for work bags or some such thing. (Copyright, 1930.) PSR oL A Clean Phonograph If you want to clean phonograph records never use a damp cloth. Take | a soft cloth and rub on it a littie vase- | line and use this to wipe off :the discs | on either side. Be sure that it is well rubped off. This cleans th&: without | harm 47d is llldl graceful. %’r;vem“tzl:so!old:;y\ | fashion very soon. If there is one time in a woman’s | life when she can make a complete break with the past, so far as clothes | are concerned, it is when she buys her wedding clothes, and there have been few seasons for years when every woman has had more occasion to make a com- plete new start. * ok ok ¥ | 'HERE is not, to be sure, quite such a difference in the wedding gown this season and last as in the other dresses in the trousseau, because even | last Spring the long, full skirt and close- ly molded bodice were to be found in | most bridal dresses. Because fashions as they are possess so much of feminine | loveliness and dignity one finds fewer | wedding dresses of the period sortthis season, however. It was only when skirts | were knee length and very scant that the bride really had to choose a gown o{umid-vlcwrlan or Moyen age sithou: ette. There seems to be less striving for | spectacular effects and novelties in the bridal dresses of the Spring. Pure white satin is still the traditional material— { though it may be chosen in ivory tone or the faintest of faint flesh tones for the sake of becomingness. For the very conservative wedding dress full-length sleeves are chosen, but many brides prefer short cap sleeves or a short capelet falling ‘over the shoul- ders. With these gleeves long .white gloves are worn drawn well up over the | elbows, leaving only a very narrow line | of bare arm showing. * % % % TH! tulle veil is so much more be- coming than lace to most young women that it is not really an advan- tage to have an heirloom in the way of a fine lace wedding veil that must be worn for the sake of tradition. The ar- rangement of the lace or tulle over the head should be quite simple, and the line of the veil at the forehead should be decided with reference to the pro- portions of the features. The very low placing of the cap—hiding the forehead entirely—is, of course, a thing of the | past. but only the girl with a beautifully | shaped forehead should attempt the ex- tremely high-brow effect. Soft pastel tones are chosen for dresses of the bridesmaids and maid of honor—hw&:h a lnv‘;ly shade of leaf green ng an important place for g weddings. Pastel blue has been for several smart ‘wed- dings, and this is sometimes combined with pastel pink by way of trimmings. Or pale pink may be combined with blue. The new aqua blue, which is & lovely soft grayed.tone, may be chosen —with pale grayed pink by way of con- trast. (Copyright. 1930.) Shoes—Nowa:i;s Always Look Well It is an old saying that you can tell @ man's or woman'’s character from the shoes. Doubtless the experienced re- tail shoe merchant does come ‘to some certain conclusions concerning his cus~ | tomers, derived entirely from the looks of their shaes. But it would be a trifle difficult to tell verv much nowadays :ehcmn’use almost every one is so well Do you ever see a shoe with buttons missing, or a shoe worn unlaced? No, because buttoned and laced shoes are practically never worn in this day of low shoes. It is very, very seldom, too, t you see a notably shabby shoe even on girls of very meager circumstances, and the shoe decidedly run over at the heel is getting to be more and more & scareity. There used to be a good many home devices for lengthening the life and improving the appearance of shoes. One oft-repeated bit of advice was to rub the inside of a banana skin over brown or tan shoes. This was said to soften and preserve the leather. No article about the care of shoes world ever have been compleie without thag, One wonders just how many people ever tried it. ~Another trick was o wash off the outside of brown shoes with warm soapy water in which a lite tle turpentine had been dissolved. We were advised to use vaseline on patent leather, which we were told softened and “fed” the leather. ‘These remedies may have worked very well with the old-fashioned sort of shoes—but for the picturesque shoes of today they might be a little too drastic. The best that any one can do for her shoes is to see that they are put on trees promptly when are taken off and left on trees “'.:g worn again. Besides that they should be kept clean—as clean as possible by brushing them off after every wearin Possibly a few other home met! might be uscd, but the best plan is to take shoes to an expert shoe cleaner from time to time. The up-to-date shoe cleaner is now far more than the old-time bootblack He—or she—must know how to take spots and streaks from light-colored suede and kid, how to remove tarnish from metal slippers, how to restore the original color to suede shoes that have “rubbed up,” how to bring back pristine whiteness to all the various sorts of white shoes,. gnduhow to clean metal and rhinestone uckles. Bananas in Crumbs Remove skin from six bananas, cut in halves lengthwise and crosswise. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and lem Juice, dip m flour, egg and crumbs an fry in deep fat, drain on brown paper. Serve with or without lemon sauce. in” cabinets. for keeping food warm while the room ‘: being heated, have appeared in Beriin, Germany.