Evening Star Newspaper, January 19, 1930, Page 51

" Only Formal Skirts Have U 4 ) LEFT: SMART EVENING (;szu(‘lg PALE WATER GREEN FLAT CREPE. G S| . C IN THE BACK FOLLOWING THE HEMLINE OF THE SKIRT. AND GODETS IN THE LON LUM DIPPIN Straws in Season’s Whirlpool Settle Sufficiently | RIGHT: TAFFETA DA NG to Point to Definite Tendencies—Fitness of Clothes to Time and Occasion Beginning| to Be Recognized—New Materials Give Evidence of Types Which They Are Ensembles. BY HELEN DRYDEN. OMEHOW it makes Spring seem a little nearer to prepare for it. A new frock, gay in design,| bright in colorings, brings Spring into the wardrobe, even though it must still be worn under a fur coat. But what ere these frocks? Already the straws in fashion’s whirl- paol have settled sufficiently to point the direetions which fashion will un- doubtedly take. Out of the war of the modes certain conclusions have de- veloped. The silhouette over which there has been so much hysteria has been modified and accepted. We know that the longer skirt is here and to stay, but—with the reservations which | the 'Paris couturiers always intended. For sports and for daytime wear on the street, the 4 to 6 inches below the knee is very little longer than the more conservative women of the coun- try have been wearing their skirts, It sounds much longer than it looks. | Preferably the hemline should be even | all around. Some of the new ensem- | bles are showing a very slight dip in the back, even in the tailored suits, but this dip is questionable. Only in the more formal afternogn costumes is it really permissible. And here is where we don with our clothes our more for- mal manners. Finished with the busi- ness of the day, we are expected to re- member that we are women and from us the world expects charm, sophistica- | tion, grace and femininity, and this we | should provide in our clothes as ex- pressive of our personalities. It means that we are beginning to of Costumes for Intended—Smart New ja.lckeu are emphasizing this higher e. line. These two mooted points settled, the attention of clothes creators has besn focused on sleeves, necklines and other details. With the result that our clothes are growing more intricate as well as more feminine all the time. ook % ECTIONAL troatments of the skirt are repeated on the bodice and even on the jacket. The yoke which so often gives the snug hipline to the skirt appears in a similar version on the blouse. Or the shaping of the skirt yoke will be repeated in the shaping of the jacket, or the seaming of the blouse. The curves of the cape, for example, will be carried out in stitching or seaming on the skirt., The same close association of trimming ap- pears with neckline and sleeves. All of which proves that our clothes today are not the hit-or-miss combinations of & few years ago, but thoughtfully studied-out” designs, each line of Whlch-‘ has a definite meaning. This same thought is reflected in fabrics. Just to look at the new cloths is to vision the type of costume for which they are intended. They have been woven to take the crisp, definite tailored lines in suits or dresses or have the soft suppleness to fall in drapes and lend themselves to the various fabric manipulations, This fitting of fabric to type has brought back many of the old weaves such as the serges, twills, tricotines and man- ize the fitness of the clothes to the time and occasion. For more for- | nish suitings for street wear, the cot- tons in the heavier weaves for sports THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C. JANUARY 19, 1930—PART THREE. WITH BOLERO BACK FROC WITH FLARING PEP- overblouse, is of a lighter shade of raspberry and black check tussah. Kk T is in the wool as well as the silk crepe ensembles that you will find many _variations of the popular cardi- gan. The latest is the -adaptation of a man’s tuxedo. It is the one button closing at the waistline which gives it }n.s similarity, for the collar may be squared or notched as well, or it may show the slender roll of the tuxedo. The rounded fronts give the raised-in- the-front movement. With the plain fabrics, the woolens and the silks, crepes and failles you will find many blouses of the prints. And here the dots, checks and plaids seem to be preferred to the floral designs, which will have their innings later Many of them are sieeveless or have the little puffed sleeves. Some show a deep pleated cape collar which falls over the round of the arm and serves as an apology for a sleeve. One very interest- ing blouse of navy and white checked | tussah_extends below the waistline in | the front, in & deep rounded V finished with a 2-inch pleated frill. This line | is repeated on the navy blue flat crepe | skirt by a deeper pleated frill. But the | unusual feature of the blouse is the 6- inch band of the checked silk attached at either side of the blouse underneath to keep the overblouse from riding up in front. The pleated collar is brought out over the collarless cardigan jacket to serve as a coat collar. While you will find ‘wool crepes in the muted tones and the more subtle pastels, flat crepes are smartest in rich colors, a bright billiard green, Inde- | pendence blue, tomato red. There are also the tones which Lelong has grayed of which biue and green are favorites (Copyright, 1930.) Me: Now i(now There are still some men, no doubt, dignity to help clear off a table, wash or own children. is getting smaller. “At last our husbands, brothers and mal occasions, teas and concerts, bridge | and heach and sheer, gossamer textures men friends are beginning to realize rties and small dinners, skirts have | for the picturesque garden party type | that there aren’t any servants, en lengthened. Not to the extreme | even of the Winter, for skirts have been | slightly raised for Spring. In front| they reach midway of the calf of the leg and either graduate slightly into a dip across the back or fail in points only long enough to give the irregular | hemline. A8 the day wears into evening, how- ever, skirts continue to lengthen 8o that for the more formal dinner and dancing gowns they have reached the ankles. And for the most formal of gowns may touch the floor or even | sweep it in trains. Here again the oc- | casfon should determine the choice, for trains are not easy to manipulate while dancing. It means that we are beginning to recognize the fitness of the clothes fo | the time and occasion. For more for- | mal occasions, teas and concerts, bridge | arties and small dinpers skirts have | en lengthened. Not to the extreme even of the Winter, for skirts have been slightly raised for Spring. In front they reach midway of the calf of the leg and either graduate slightly into a | dip across the back or fall in points | only long enough to give the irregular ‘hem!ine. AB the day wears into evening, how- | ever, skirts continue to lengthen 8o that for the more formal dinner and | dancing gowns they have reached the | ankles. And the most formal of gowns | may touch the floor or even sweep it in trains. Here again the occasion should determine the choice, for trains are not | ¢ oy o manipulate while dancing | he change to the normal waistline | has been attained far more easily than | that to the longer hemline. ‘The ransition has heen made easy hy 'fabric manipulations, seamings and {tuckings, so that the princess molding Jn our more formal gowns is as be- icoming and easy to wear as the belts | ©f our street and sports clothes. Now | g . | * K K K | of gown. * WHEN ‘Winter il lags and it is difficult to believe that Spring is just around the corner, the happlest way of anticipating its arrival is with a new frock. The Spring colorings and the gay, bright, quaint, animated designs bring a little of the Spring cheer into the drab Wintery picture. Besides, it is smart to wear these costumes under the fur coat. Your choice is a wide one. select _dresses sportslike type in the lacey tweeds, fer- seys and wash silk. Or you may antici- pate the first Spring days with one of the severe tailor suits which often make their Spring debut under the fur coat. You are more likely, however, to fall captive to one of the new wool or silk- and-wool ensembles. These fabrics are so light in weight that you can wear the ensemble comfortable in steam- heated houses. And then there are silk ensembles, both in the plain, colorful crepes and in prints. It is in the ensembles of the light- welght woolens and heavier silks that we find the feminine touches so dis- tinctive of the Spring modes. You may have your choice of dress, cape and dress, and jacket suit in these fabrics All of them will bear the hallmarié of the coming season in their intricate cut and clever seaming. It's a personal choice whether you select these sheer woolens in the off shades or one of the vibrant colors. There is a lovely raspberry tone—the same shade you find in the newest tweeds—in a three-piece ensemble. The skirt is cut circular with godets let in to accent the flare. The jacket is a glorified bolero reaching to the hip. It ties, as so many of these so-called dressmaker's suits do, in & soft, floppy bow over one hip. The blouse, which may be worn a5 & tuck®in or short You may and ensembles of a) ‘What cheerfully take off their | coats, roll - ; their sleeves and set to | work 't ».'n Eve with the dishes. And all this without being asked ‘These | words are quoted from a writer in a popular English woman’s magazine. | " "And Englishmen before the war were | of all men the least willing to help with | any sort of housework. The point now | seems to be with the well bred American | that if he cannot afford to provide his wife with enough money to hire serv- ants then he should make up to her by helping with the work. If he cannot give her enough money to hire a washer woman, or to send the washing to the laurdry, then he must help do it him- | self, and a surprisingly large number of | the younger generation of young mar- | ried men does help in this way. though | you'll notice that they mind it much fess when there is an electric washing machine. If there is any disgrace about the matter anywhere, it must be in not being able to earn enough money to send clothes to the laundry or to hire a laundress. Certainly the idle dignity gained by letting a wife do the heavy work is of little value to the consider- ate American husband nowadays. One of the best results of this, ac- cording to reports, is that now men are finding out that housework is not such nice, cozy, easy work as they have thought. Many a man goes eagerly | back to his regular job on Monday | morning, willing to admit that looking after a 2-year-old child is no invalid's job, or that getting and ungetting meals is really not the dainty occupation it has long been considered by the sterner sex. | 15 more, the 237,000,000 Bibles Sold. In the last 30 years 237,000,000 Bibles have been sold by the British and For- eign Bible Society. according to its re- | cent report. The Bibles have been dis- tributed throughout the world, and tne | Good Book is still the best seller in all | leading ccntr s, About Housework| | pair ‘of gloves changed and you'll have who feel that it is beneath their precious | | stamping around. LEFT: BLACK FLAT CREPE JACKET DR TUCK-IN BLOUSE OF FLAT C EPE WHICH CONT! TREATMENT AND HAND-TUCKED BLOUSE WITH JABOT. Harbingers of Spring MODERATIONI have been longer this Winter, ‘That is something one should contemplate. Skirts and while many of the dresses have been so right, many of them have been so wrong. Or was it the girl or woman who selected them that was wrong? the latter. In most cases I fear it was For the evening, long, sweeping skirts are lovely and we all have enjoyed wearing them. But what horrors one has seen on the streets! Long points reaching almost to the another color, All wrong. Generally skirts should be several ground coming from under a coat of inches longer than last year. For street wear the even hemline is correct. Some of the early Spring things are now shown. They are so pretty, so feminine! Skirts are about the same length that we have had during the Winter and waistlines are still normal. clothes before you buy. for walking, for business? simple, of light-weight" wool or plain evening wear, points, yes, but remember after 5 o'clock. But do put thought into your Is it to b~ n runabout dress, a dress for shopping, Having sett d this question, select something t crepe. For afternoon or informal hat they should not be worn until HELEN DRYDEN. When Children Are Lost BY OLIVE ROBERTS BARTO «)\/JOM. I'm going over to Art’s and show him how to make some- thing out of this erector set—an oil derrick. He can't get it right.” “Say, look here, young man, welfare work begins at home. If you're looking for some one to rescue, here's your little_ brother. He's been waiting™ for you for hours.” “Aw, he's only a baby! I can't have any fun with him.” “Oh, so it’s fun you're after. Well, I guess your friend can't drill for oil today. I have to go down and get a to stay at home and take care of Brother. I've been cleaning and I haven't had time to take him out, and | he ought to have a little fresh air. dry a dish or dress or bathe one of thelr | But the number of them | You can take him for & walk. I won' be gone long.” “Oh, doggone it, mom! I don’t wanta take him out. He just pokes along and he cries every time he falls down, and then he gets his leggins dirty and T ger heck and everything.” “Mom” was thoughtful at this. Jimmy, looking out of the tail of his eye, noticed. Say, he was getting pretiy good, wasn't he!' That certainly was an inspiration about the leggins. He knew how his mother fussed over wash- ing them. Suddenly, however, that lady has an inspiration of her own, “You can take him in his cart, then. No, don’t make such a face, and stop You ought to be ashamed. I'd think you'd be proud of | a nice little brother like—-" “Oh, I am! I am! Put on his things and I'll take him. But let him walk I ¢'n manage. I hate that old cart. All the fellows call me ‘nursey’ when I go shovin' it around, and I get so dog- gone disgusted I c'd just— immy Jones! And don’t you ever say ‘doggone’ to me again. You're going to take Baby in his cart—and like it, do you hear? "Ana stop at the baker’s and get half a dozen cream puffs for supper. I haven't time to make any dessert. The rest of the dinner’s in the oven.” Mrs. Jones unlocked the front door as the clock struck 6. Mr. Jones had not come home yet and the house was pitch dark. She smelled the savory, warm odor of the roast—thank goodne: it wasn't burned. But where was Jim- my—and the baby? ‘She switched on the lights and called loudly: “Jimmy! Are you home? An- swer me, Jimmy! Junior! Ooco, hoo! Anybody here?” No answer. She opened the door again and looked up and down the street anxiously. It was getting cold angd windy, with'little spits of snow. Where could those chil- dren be? She thought of the cream puffs. The baker might know. BShe went to the phone. Yes, Jimmy had been there and gone Hush this minute! | most intimate neighbors. Ne, no one had scen Jimmy or Junior. Mr. Jones came home and was told the shocking news. “Oh, they’re all right,” sald Mr. Jones, who was very tired and very hungry. “They'll come home and bring their tails behind them.” “Don't be a brute! Doesn't anything ever worry you? Go out this minute and find them.” Mr. Jones went out. In 15 mintues he was back. No news of the children. But suddenly there was a clatter and a bang on the front porch. Both parents flew to the door in one jump. “Where have you been?” “Why, at Art’s! We made a grand oil derrick. You just oughta seen if. Wasn't_it, Junior? I thought you wouldn’t mind after we started. And, mom, don't get mad. But I bought those cream puffs on the way over, and we got hungary and Art's got a sister and we ate them all up. We were starving!” ‘Then Mrs. Jones remembered. - She'd forgotten about the distant Art, who was only a school name to her. “Come on and eat your supper,” she said, peeling off Junior's outer layer. She felt that Jimmy needed a smack- ing, and yet something told her that he_didn’t. But father said: “Young fellow, don't you ever let me catch you worrying your megher that way again.” Most_parents realize how precious their children are when they become frightened over their welfare, and the fact that the child has been responsible in many cases does not lessen the affection. Shall Heels Be Lower or Higher? Experts disagree concerning the proper sort of heels this season. While on the one hand there are those who insist that with the new slimmer, longer lines in dresses, the heels worn in the evening should be only moderately hlgh there are others who hold that the longer the dress the higher should be the heel. Those opposed to the higher heels say that they cause the body to tilt forward in a way that detracts from the graceful lines of the new drapery and those who favor- high heels say that the new long lines demand them in order to give added height to the figure and daintiness to the foot. It is quite possible to Set shoes that will satisfy either demand, as there are new evening and afternoon slippers with the shorter high heels and others with heels a full three inches in height. Probably the rarest creature known fo man is the notornis, a variety of bird which s unable to fly. Only four speci- mens of this flightless bird have ever some time ago. After that she call® up six of her been secured, all of them during the Vibrant Hues Are Chosen for Sports ‘There is no one outstanding color indicated for Spring. Instead there are several groups, each expressive of a type of costume. For instance, bright, vibrant, animated colors are intended for sports at the resorts where the col- orings of nature, even the houses with their gay contrasting awnings, are so intense that any but vivid colorings would seem pale and insignificant in comparison. But these brilliant colors are also in good fashion standing for evening in addition to pastels. Among pastels there are the soft and the strong tones., The former we find in evening and formal afternoon cos- tumes, and the latter in woolens and for daytime wear. These muted tones are the so-called ‘“off” or “linen” shades, because they are grayed and thus made more subtle and sophisti- cated. For daytime, also, we have the peren- nial navy blue. It heralds a return to fashion favor of all the blues, with the accent on a dark rich blue known as independence blue and a new tone called Monaco, which shades from pale lilac to purple. All of the blues with a purple cast are high lighted, also tur- quoise and ciel. Blue in combination with green is a headliner, also pastel blue with the pastel pink in resort clothes. Of the greens, both blue green and the yellow green are represented, the former in the blue green like Bermuda and jade, and the yellow greens in lgrll. Jettuce and melon, softening to the nile of the pastel group. The 1930 version of the popular chartreuse is known as lime and is particularly well liked in combination with black. Yellow is still one of the leaders, in- cluding butter yellow, lemon yellow and one with a decided gold tinge. Yellow is often combined with red as a typical basque combination. It also is fea- tured with blue, with black and with chocolate brown, ‘There is much yellow in the new reds, tomato being the favorite hue. Also in the pinks which are so strongly featured as Vionnet or azalea pink. There also are some very dark reds and a very pale rose. Raspberry is an- other of the off-red shades which is particularly good in the tweeds and wool-and-silk crepes. Orang_e: Marmalade - Full of Vitamines Recently an authority on dietetics pointed out the fact that orange peel contains a great number of vitamines, more vitamines than the orange itself. He suj ted that children were really only following & wholesome food pref- erence when they chewed a little of the orange skin as they ate oranges. He went so far as to recommend to adults that they always eat a little of the peel as the orange itself. For centuries English folks have had a fondness for orange marmalade, and orange marmalade wouldn’t be orange marmalade without the peel. Its long- continued popularity in_England may depend on ' its real wholesomeness—its richness in useful vitamines. Many persons have the English habit of having orange marmalade always on the breakfast table. We have generally regarded this as entirely unsuitable to young children or delicate persons, but perhaps we were blundering all the time. Marmalade is one of the most satis- factory of bought preserves to buy be- cause it has such splendid keeping ?unlmu. 1t does not readily show any orm of mold, and if kept covered it seems to keep indefinitely after the seal is broken. Marmalade is not hard to make at home. Sometimes the recipes call for a little grapefruit with the oranges, but by most, persons the pure orange mar- malade is preferred. Factory-made orange marmalade usually owes some of its stiffness to the addition of apple Jelly—for apples are richer in pectin, ast century. A NN\t NSNS \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ SSSS <SS 7 2 Elbow Sleeves. BY MARY MARSHALL. HEN _the days begin to lengthen and the wind be- gins to strengthen we may need to wear our warmest clothes but our thoughts turn to lighter, gayer, more springlike clothes. There are days in late Jan- uary or early February when no matter how cold or windy or gloomy the weather may be we feel a need for new clothes of some sart. We are not content to satisfy this Midwinter interest in new clothes merely by making plans for Spring clothes and this is perhaps because plans are carried out more quickly now than they used to be. If we buy clothes ready made—as the majority of women do—much of the prelumm{{ planning is done for us; and even if we make them ourselves we are not content to spend weeks selecting materials and trimmings and more weeks cutting and fitting and sewing. In most parts of the country it is rather foolish actually to_wear Spring clothes before the end of March or the first of April. The sensible thing at this time of the year is to make the best of one's Winter wardrobe as it ac- tually exists—adding to it certain new accessories and a dress or two—possibly a hat—of the between-season sort. A little time and a little money spent in replenishing the Winter wardrobe will satisfy your desire for new things and will provide you with clothes that are really suitable to the season and the weather. i NE of the most useful additions to the Midwinter wardrobe that any woman can make is & practical dress of lightweight silk to wear under the ‘Winter fur or cloth coat. I am sure you will be delighted with the new printed silks, which have already been welcomed with enthusiasm, plrtl{ because of the fact that during the last few months plain materials have prevailed. Many of these new silks show floral patterns, rather small, trim designs with daisies or other garden flowers on a dark or neutral background. There is something youthful and trim about these new printed silk dresses, the smartest of which are made with even hemline and normal waistline. There are no uneven skirt draperies to hang in untidy ends below the coat and the skirts usually hang only four or five inches below the knees. Cuffs and col- lars of soft, fine lingerie contribute to their becomingness. To wear under your Winter coat for luncheon or afternoon bridge parties, or even for office wear, you may choose one of the new two-piece suits made of silk or light-weight wool. Beneath the 11 neven Hems in Accepted Fashions WITH PINK CHIFFON COLLAR, VESTEE, AND CUFFS. CENTER: BOLERO ENSEMBLE OF NAVY BLUE WOOL CREPE WITH JES THE LINE OF BUTTONS ON THE SKIRT. RIGHT: SPRIG GREEN FLAT CREPE DRESS WITH SECTIONAL SKIRT Midwinter Wardrobes May Need Replenish- ing While Wearers Await Arrival of Spring. Small Flowers Are Used on Silks and Chiffons for Day and Evening—Light- Weight Wool Sweaters Designed for South Furnish Practical Addition—Shorter-Than- signs with colored printed destgllx spaced between or overlapping e woven designs. ‘There are light-weight wool sweaters designed for Southern wear that are a practical addition to any woman's Mid- winter wardrobe. The newest of these sweaters show a round neckline, fin- ished with ribbing that gives it a snug fit and the sleeves ending just above the elbows have a rim of ribbing. ‘The favorite t; of sweater is made in tuck-in lenflm'lth a band of rib- ing at the. waistline. This may be worn beneath the skirt belt or, if you prefer, may be worn in slip-on fashion. The sweater fits snugly across the shoul- ders and just enough fullness through the body to produce a slight blouse effect when worn tucked in, Almost all the sports clothes for re- sort wear show the new shorter-than- elbow sleeves. There are new linen shirts to be worn with linen shorts for beach wear or with tailored sports jackets suit, and these also show the straight, short sleeve. (Copyrisht, 19 Smoot;er Fabfics Appear for Spring ‘Woolens that look like silks, and silks that look like woolens, and cottons which can be substituted for both make the fabric situation at the same time interesting and complicated. There are numerous novelties in which silk and wool are combined, wool and rayon, silk and rayon, and cotton and rayon. An- other striking characteristic of the Spring fabric collections is the wide- spread use of faconne motifs. This means that instead of plain silks and woolens we shall see many with neat self-patterns. In the new tweeds nubbed effects have largely disappeared. The Spring edition has & smoother surface, is thin- ner and more tightly woven. Many of them are woven in the designs of men's suitings. ‘Wool crepes have all the quality, ap- pearance and weight of silk crepes, and lend themselves to the same treatment. ‘The newest versions of jerseys are like wool lace, knitted in many different patterns. Cotton and lisle meshes are enjoying a high rating for sports shirts and short-sleeved tuck-ins. The insistent demand for the taflor- made suit is bringing back with it serges, twills and tricotines. Mannish shirtings are competing with shantungs for the preferred place in sports sifks. Stripes, plaids, checks and dots in self- colorings on & crepe ground are made into & 1930 version of the shirt-waist dress. Shantungs in many variations short jacket you may wear a sleeveless or long-sleeved blouse of the sort that may be washed and ironed. These new suits show even hemlines. If you are fortunate enough to have & new evening gown among the pos- sible additions to your wardrobe at the present time, you may wisely select one of the new printed chiffons. 3 like the silk prints for daytime wear, show flowers designs; only those for the evening are usually larger and more boldly conceived, with graceful handling of leaves and foliage, : EEE MONG the new silk fabrics for late Winter and Spring there are are used for suits as well as sports dresses. Silk is also exploited in the tailor- type suits, especially crepes. The new- est of '.h:crrlnu are lace designs print- ed in black on very light-colored chif- fons, which are eagerly seized upon for formal afternoon and evening costumes. Cottons, too, are woven to look like woolens and are handled like woolens in the same way. Crash tweeds, shan- tungs, piques, both plain and printed, sudanette, and heavy linens are made up in severe tailor-i suits and dresses, Organdie, handkerchief linen, batiste, pnn.lcuhrli/1 evelet embroidered, printed nets and the sheerest and finest of cot- or jelly-fgrming substance, tham are oranges. many printed foconnes. These are materiels ghoei oo nenatans des tons are blossoming forth in picturesque and dainty formal afternoon and eve- ning dresses.