Evening Star Newspaper, September 8, 1929, Page 51

Tweeds Are To Be Autumn Favorites in Smart Campus Wear By Helen Dryden. SPORTS suit may be made the lege girl's wardrobe, for on it all of the daytime wardrobe may be built. It may serve for sports; although for hiking, golf and lgllng a special outfit is advisable. hile coverts and worsteds are strug- one of the tweeds, a three and even five-color mixture, or black and white dashed with a bright color. The dom- blouses, sweaters and lining of the coat to be worn over the suit The skirt may be a wrap-around, but yoke and restrained fuliness gained through pleats or gores, or a combina- tion of both. It is sure to be longer, e disappearéd behind least ~three inches more of material. The short, finger-tip length jacket will be worn, ful, but because it can be worn later in the season under a cloth or fur coat. The jacket may be collarless or made be worn with a scarf of fur or a gay, two-tone wool scarf. : For classroom use the suit may be and appropriate is the tuck-in blouse made with an inverted box pleat in the back, a yoke and turn-over collar weather, jerseys, striped, flecked and plain, with geometric appliqued designs in the colorings of the tweeds will be foundation stone for the col- traveling, for trips to town or for [gling for recognition, the usual choice is inant color schould be repeated in s more likely to be made with a hip- for, even in sports skirts, knees h: not only because it is new and youth- with & narrow, notched collar and may worn with a blouse of tub silk. Smart fitting close to the throat. For colder favored. Newest of‘all are jumpers of novelty knit fabrics and angora pull- which give the suit a sportslike air. There are also sleeveless jumpers of these knit fabrics to wear with the tai- Jored blouses. Useful and appropriate for the col- lege girl are simple, teilored crepe biouses, made with bandings, appliques and pipings of a contrasting color, & well as blouses of silk printed in tweed designs. For more formal occasions the blouse, which’may even take on the length of a tunic, may be of satin or crepe satin, the reverse surfacc serving as trimming Many blouses have a hip band, | sometimes run with elastic, so that | they may be worn as overblouses with separate skirts, giving the effect of tuck-ins. The idea is practical when the effect of a one-piece dress is de- sired. The skirt should be made of the material of the crepe or satin blouse, matching the color of the top-coat lin- ing, thereby providing a dress and coat ensemble. | The topcoat may be of tweed in & blending color mixture, but heavier than the suit, or of llama or camel’s hair in a harmonizing color. A tan or brown coat may be worn with a suit of bro beige and orange tweed mixture. Wita stitched yoke in the back, inverted pleat, possibly raglan shoulders, the top coat is roomy enough to slip over the suit. It may carry & shawl collar of beaver, raccoon, wolf or badger, but it will be just as correct if it depends on a scarf for throat protection. ‘The more formal topcoat in the vel- vety woolens or broadcloth, to be worn with silk, velvet or wool crepe dresses, may be luxuriously furred with either the curly pelts like caracul, or the long- haired fox or lynx. Often there are| fur cuff trimmings, ranging from bar- rels to bandings over the elbow of the | sleeves. This type of coat should re. flect soft handling, with flares placed | low at the back, ripples and fabric | workings, to differentiate it from the straightline sports coat. | For the girl who can afford a fur eoat, either the inevitable raccoon or the far newer lapin or goat is well| Some women cling to the belief that they never look really smartly dressed | save when in sports clothes, and on the other hand there are women who insist Between-Season Clothes BY MARY MARSHALL. PLEAT. HARMONIZED WITH THE BEIGE AND BROWN FELT HAT. TWEED IN GREENS, GRAY AND WHITE WAS DUC THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C. SEPTEMBER 8, 1929—PART 3. 7= .\‘ SRR R WA RN RN W THE BACK OF THE BROWN TWEED COAT SHOWN AT THE LEFT HAS A STITCHED YOKE WITH INVERTED | THE CLASSROOM DRESS AT THE LEFT MAY BE OBTAINED IN PLAIN OR FLECKED JERSEY OR WOOL A BROWN CAPUCINE AND BEIGE STRIPED ASCOT AND TAN PURSE STRIPED WITH BROWN | CREPE. THE SLIGHTLY RAISED WAISTLINE IS DEFINED BY A LEATHER BELT 'AND FULLNESS IS INTRO- ) AT THE FRONT OF THE SKIRT BY APPLIED BOX PLEATS. THE DRESS OF CAPUCINE FLAT reindeer gloves to wear with the suit USED FOR THE SUIT SHOWN AT THE RIGHT, WHICH MAY SERVE FOR BOTH TRAVEL AND SPORTS. IT{ CREPE AT THE RIGHT HAS FULLNESS INTRODUCED AT THE SIDE BY MEANS OF A CIRCULAR GODET. SHOWS SHAPED HIP YOKE AND INVERTED PLEATS AT THE CENTER FRONT. THE JACKET OF FINGER. TIP LENGTH MAY BE FASTENED BY TWO LOW-PL OVER A SLEEVELESS KNIT ZEPHYR JUMPER. CED BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLE ’lZO\TA HAS THE NEW BACK RUF chosen. Lapin coats, both short and in three-quarter length, lined with tweed, are serving as coat partners of many of the tweed dresses. When | trimmed with leather they have such a truly sportslike air they may substitute for the leather coat. It would be well to add to the col- lege wardrobe a raincoat of Jap silk which comes neatly packed in a silk envelope with a patent slide fastening; or a more pretentious garment of rub- | berized tweed, printed velvet, checxed woolen, heavy satin or crepe. It may be matched in color to & snug-fitting waterproof hat and galoshes. (Copyright, 1929.) o ‘The same evening you meet her at dinner or a dance, and she is completely transformed. By some magi¢ touch she that they cannot wear sports clothes to|has made the smooth, sleek hair of the advantage. morning wave. Eve from her erything A definife line is drawn between the | softly curling hair to her high-heeled |- requirements of sports clothes and the | slippers contribute to this magic change. requirements of clothes of the more for- lowadays a girl must not only have mal sort. As a matter of fact, any an entirely different wardrobe and kit woman who takes ordin; pains in |of for sports wear, for, busi- dressing and who selects her clothes ness and street wear, for dance and with care can present a smart and at- tractive appearance in sport clothes, just as any woman who will take the trouble can wear the more elaborate sort possibly for - formal Wear as well, but she must have different sports wear for the various seasons of the year. The actual cost of her Summer sports of clothes to advantage. Variety cer- | clothes may be very small indeed if she tainly plays an important part in the is a judicious buyer and manages to sum total of any woman's charm, and make some of her things herself, but by restricting herself to any one type everything must be chosen with refer- of dress a woman assumes an unneces- ence to the season and the occasion. sary handicap. Unless she plans to spend the Winter The reslly up-to-date young woman |in the South, she must remember in masters the art of dressing to different | making dress plans for the year that types of clothes. You meet her on the there will be need in’ midwinter of a tennis court or golf course in the morn- | warm outfit for Winter sports. ing with her hair brushed as smoothly | back as her brother’s; low-heeled sports shoes—everything about her trim and sportsworthy. And you say to yourself that there is a girl who has really mas- tered the art of wearing sports clothes. Sclentific beauty schools—the kind that train operators for beauty shops— are very definite in their instructions about manicures. There is nothing mys- terious about having beautiful nails. They are merely the result of intelligent care, and plenty of it. For the complete manicure you need, in addition to an orange stick, emery board and buffer that should be used daily, four otner tools—a professional file, nippers, cuticle scissors and cuticle knife. The materials you need are per- oxide to bleach the nails, olive oil or & good cream to soften the cuticle, finely ground pumice for pulling back the cuticle, nail-white to remove stains from under the nail, and gloss for the first polishing; and toilet water containing a large per cent of alcohol for the final polishing. These should be placed upon a clean towel, along with a bowl of warm water and a small brush. That may sound like a lot of equip- ment, but, remember, it will enable you after a little practice in the technique to give yourself a real professional man- eure. An efficient manicure requires 35 min- utes, divided among these four proc- esses: Filing, 10 minutes; cleansing, § minutes; cuticle treatment, 15 minutes, and polishing, 5 minutes. flling the nails the professional manicurist begins with the little finger | of the left hand and files across to the thumb of the right hand. This proce- dure should be followed. Then allow the left hand to soak in the bowl of shampoo water while the right-hand nails are being filed. Always file from the corner to the center, and use the full length of the file, holding it by the smooth portion only. Bevel the.top edge and the inside edge of each nail three times and shape the nail to match its base. Be careful not to strike the cuticle, for it may not only be painful but also coarsen it. To cleanse the free edge of the nafl use the orange stick only. Remove the left hand from the water after using the nailbrush on it, and let the right . hand remain in the water while cleans- ing the nail of the lelt hand. Dip the orange stick into the nurl; at least put olive oll or cream around the cuticle 4. of each nail and work it in with the orange stick from the corner down to the center of the nail. If the cuticle sticks, use pumice powder and water to 3 under each nail, being nok.to work past the nail line. Work this bleach from the center' to efch corner of the nail. Nail-whitg is Between the season of Summer sports and midwinter comes a fairly long sea- |son of temperate weather, when the | dress demands of outdoor sports must not be overlooked. (Copyright, 1929.) ty School used in the same manner. off the surplus ofl. ‘The dull side of the cuticle knife, moistened in water, is used to push back the cuticle, working from the cor- ner to the center. Rub off the loose cuticle, lifting the corners with the dull edge of the knife to bring up the dead skin. The nippers may be used if necessary fo Iift hangnails, and the scissors only to cut off particles of the cuticles that remain in the corners. Before the polishing begiris the hands should again be washed. A natural glow, without enameling or varnishing, is the aim of the most expert manicur- ist, and to aid this a powder or paste is sometimes L, After the first polish the nails should again be washed and then repolished, with just the buffer or after applying some toilet water, Beauticians have learned that more than 10 consecutive strokes with the buffer cause a burning sensation that is liable to damage the nail if habitu- ally done. A light, fast stroke is the one to use, and it can be acquired with a little practice. - ‘Time spent in giving your nalis the care they ¢ is never wasted, Nails have a way of responding most readily to intelligent treatment, and the results it is possible to achieve are a real satis- faction to the woman who.would be “groomed to her fingertips.” ‘Then wipe Berets Ap|;eal To College Girl! To wear with the tweed suit or coat i the college girl may well hesitate be. tween a tweed hat made from strips of tweed fagoted together, with a| matehing scarf, and a so-cailed pirate hat of felt with one side long and the other turned sharply back. But she - N 1> A . AT THE NAPE OF THE NECK. THE EVENING WRAP AT THE LEFT IS MADE OF VELVET IN ONE OF THE RICH AUTUMN TONES. IT SHOWS THE NEW CIRCULAR FLOUNCE. WHICH MAY BE HELD CLOSE TO THE FIGURE, FOLLOWING THE SILHOUETTE OF THE DIPPING HEMLINE OF THE DRESS. THE DANCE FROC AT THE RIGHT, MADE OF PASTEL-TONED CHIFFON OR SATIN WITH A FLARE GAINED THROUGH SHIRRINGS IS APPROPRIATE FOR C STRANDS OF CRYSTALS ARE CORRECT FOR FORMAL EVENING WEAR. it = — A P LEGE PROMS. WIDE BRACELE’ A SQUARE-CUT RING AND TWO L- You Can Learn to Sleep at Any Time! Did you ever hear any one rather! boast of inability to take a nap in the daytime? “How I envy you,” says one ‘woman I know, “to be able to make up lost sleep in the daytime. I have never béen able to get a wink of sleep until after dark.” Of course, if you have definitely made up your mind that you can't sleep in the daytime, then the chances are that you will not do so unfil some time when your body is positively crying for sleep. and then when the opportunity comes ‘you will sleep, no matter what o'clock is sure to decide on at least one beret !it is. of soft felt, shirred velvet or novelty suede, and for more formal occasions 2 soleil or velvet with the new off-the- | face line, broken over one eyebrow, the irregular sides much elongated, and a snug-fitting back, " sometimes, accented by & smashing bow or pieated Not only are two fabrics often com- bined, like velvet and felt, but two and | even three colors are blended. Rel 1 does this with & brown felt. The me. | dium brim, turned up at the left front, falls over into a long right side with a rosette of orange and brown velvet rib- bon at the left back. are sometimes used. The hat should match furs, suit, coat or bag and whica it is worn. Several persons whose names are well known have the faculty of -sleeping wherever and whenever the necessity :Imm 'm?n are malz;lm doctors hose regular sleeping rs_are so often broken that they really have no “regular” time to sleep at all, who can make up sleep in & marvelous way—S5 minutes here and 10 minutes there, on a lounge a sitting room, in bed, or boux | even riding in an auomobile, Remark- able stories might be told concsrning the ability of generals and other mili- tary leaders to snatch refreshing sleep In conditions that little suggested sleep to _?“oul persons. who | manner. es who feel that|of her indulgence. All a Matter of Taste The shops are so full of good-looking, ready-to-wear clothes that the college girl may have things that are practical, not too expensive and yet just as smart as.those possessed by the woman who spends large amounts each season on an elaborate wardrobe. It is all a mat- ter of taste. The girl who selects clothes that are simple, well cut, made of good muterials and just the right thing for the occasion on which they are to be worn will have the assurance of being well dressed. The requirements of the college girl are limited. She needs really only two kinds of clotheg, those of the sports type in which she prac- tically lives in the day time, and dance dresses, But much thought should be given to acecessories. To have a sufficient number of good accessories is a far better plan than to have a great quantity of things of inferior quality, for these can make or mar a costume. Never before have women paid the attention to details that they do today. HELEN DRYDEN, have this point of view and some who rather boastingly assure you that they have no time for naps. . 1 know of one very busy woman, how- ever, who has accustomed herself to very Mayonnaise A good mayonnaise is made by beat- ing the yolks of two eggs until they Stream % garter of & ub of oie ol & stream & quarter of a ¢ ve oil, & short naps, sometimes not longer than | teaspoon of vinegar, el another quars 10 minutes, niever longer than 20. And|ter cup of ofl, a teaspoon of lemon she can get in one of these cat naps| jujce, a almost any time of the day. She ayolds|of mustard, a shake of cayenne, and havi a definite time for a nap, be-|a saltspoon of black pepper. Then add cause then in case she could not take it ther quarter cup of - ofl, more at that time she would suffer the dis-| acid of either sort if necessary and the comfort of drowsiness. But by means rest of the oil. Beat for tnree minutes occasional little 30 winks she is|after the last of the oil is added, and keep going in & most g. e:lubrn beat constantly » able to Carnelian o rAmber Worn With Brown In her choice of hats, shoes, bags, belts an dthe other accessories, the col- lege girl shows her knowledge of color and color contrasts which count for so much in the fashion world. Wisely se- lected costume jewelry often lends just the fight color accent—coral, carnelian and amber blending with the autumnal browns and lapis lazull supplying the blue note with greens. Woven necklaces of opaque stones, bugle effects in crystals, graduated pearl strands and seed pearls are favorcd. Wide bracelets of baguette and rhinestones, set with the bright color and _semi-precious stones, add the knowing finishing touch to evening costumes. . For Young Girl. A skirt and wash blouse may be worn under the pull-on sweatef, with cuffs and collars out over the sweater instead of with the usual skirt mounted on a washable lining bodice. For a girl of 10 or 11 a pleated skirt is effectiveiy worn with a sleeveless, wash, silk blouse and cardigan sweater. With a wide Peter Pan collar and fous in-hand silk tie this ‘makes a decid- | THE TOP COAT IS OF VELVETY WOOLEN MATERIAL WITH A POUCH COLLAR AND BARREL CUFFS OF BROWN CARACUL AND THE SOLEIL HAT, WHICH _1AY MATCH EITHER THE FUR OR THE CLOTH OF THE | Any condition which deviates from the normal fills the mother with con- cern. She may have been told by many persons that it doesn't mean any- thing when the baby spits up (“Just ate oo much, the little piggy!”) but she worries nevertheless. Some of this worry is wasted, yet in spite of the triviality of the causes that lead to | baby's spitting up, it is better to pre- vent baby fixing the habit. | If baby learns that he can upset the | household by losing his good meal, this |gives him a power over said household that it is just as well he does not possess. The type of harmless spitting up is that which takes place when baby over- loads his stomach, or is fed at too fre- quent intervals. The old-time rule that baby should be fed for 20 minutes is responsible for much of this. Baby is an individual at birth, and he may be a natural dawdler or a busy little eater Who can consume his rations in record | time. Why insist that the hasty fellow shall eat as long as the laggard? The result will be overeating. The shape of the small baby's the baby): and if he is picked up and | joggled about shortly after a meal, & soaked bib is the inevitable result. Obviously baby’s playtimes should come Your Baby and BY MYRTLE MEYER ELDRED. stomach is conducive to easy emptying | | (perhaps nature's way of taking care an 15" __School Clothes Once classes have begun, the ecoll girl has no time to bother with l?e: clothes, but unless she is assured that they are right she will feel a certain solicitude wkich may become sx-gge= ated, for the girl of today is clothes- conscious. ‘Lo enjoy dividends in the way of clothes security she should ex- pend thought and time in planning and buying her wardrobe now, before the excitement of ccilege life is upon her. There is no standard wardrobe which can be applied 1o all colleges. FPor the college in the North a generous supply of warm clothes must be provided, while the girl who is going South must re- member that tnere will be warm | weather until well into Winter. In some of the colleges many students go away over the week ends and keep up as much as they can their social lvi- ties outside of the dormitogy life, Of | evurse, they require more formal clothes. The selection of the wardrobe be- | comes, therefore, more or less of a per- sonal problem. Here are some of the. things that the college girl will ind & | good_investment: ‘. | Suit, preferably of tweed, with. seve | eral blouses, including one washabie iulloud blouse, . one. one of satin. 3 2 Topcoat of tweed or llams, wjthovt ur. Street coat of velvety wooren or- | broadelots, with fur. " 3 | Raincoat, to be worn with or without | & coat beneath, Jersey suit for sports, with tuck-in blousz and sweaters. drf:lk or wool crepe cardigan suit or Two campus dresses of knitted jersey- or wool etamine. A dinner or semi-formal dance dress. One formal evening gown, and more there is much social activity,~ A beret for the campus. A sports hat. A more formal hat. A pair of dark low-heeled oxfords. { A pair of sports shoes for the campus. | A pair of suede or tent leather | pumps, with metal buckles or tailored bo:l m;rwl;h one strap. pair of evening slippers, crepe de chine. F S P erefolly, A pair of mules or sandals, l?llt‘i?b!"bo:;:;d galoshes. ng if one rides and skii bn;:.l 1:1:112 skis. - - unging pajamas in contrastis vivid tones of crepe satin or erepe. "4 i | A quilted or striped flannel robe. | A tweed bag. with inlaid wood handle, lndwl:mteh olh::\lelope'or shoe calf to ma e shoes, possibl; 2 ey o ly with the new A pair of pigskin, doeskin or brown of flat crepe and |1t |and a pair of suede pull-on gloves, i either light or dark beige, to n‘ll'&h lh: stockings to wear with dresses. White kid evening gloves in 12 and 16 button length, which will be con‘:et for formal dances. J Min Lengthening the intervals between feed- - ings, and reducing the cream eontents }ot the bottle formula, and giving the’ { nursing baby a drink of boiled water should end this type of vomiting. Mean- while, the mother must eat a ‘“leaner” diet and force herself to take more vm_‘?;om exercise. e tough curds of cows’ milk ma; be difficult for the weak digestive julu{ of baby’s stomach to break down.” The result is that long after eating the_ | large, tough curds may be vomited back. When this happens the mother must | take some steps to reduce the curds to | more easily digested proportions. Boil- | ing the milk from three to 10 minutes | will do this, or using evaporated or- dried milk, which, because of its prepa- | ration, has curds more like mothers’ { milk; or the use of lime water or lactic | acid “or lemon juice With the formula. These are all methods useful in Break- ln'lkdown the tougher curds of cows' milk. The projectile type of vomiting (the pyloric stenosis condition) is the most | dangerous of all types. Food'is seldom {at fdult, but a malformation of the stomach, which makes the passage of food from the pylorus to the small in- testine difficult or . almost impossible. | The result is that no matter what kind | of food is given the baby, very shortly | the , stomach begins to make peculiar, | before meals” and his hours of rest | wave-like motions, and then the food afierward. ius shot back with great force. Instead Sometimes too little food may result | of the food being pushed into the small |in vomiting quite as surely as too much. | intestine by the digestive processes, as Babies may nurse vigorously on an |should happen naturally, the pushing, |empty breast, and {hen, for no good compressing motions . simply result in | reason that I have discovered, fail to | expelling it. B | gain in weight after nursing and still| When the baby regularly vomits in vomit profusely for a long time after- | this characteristic {aditon, grows. thin, ward. It would appear from this and is habitually constipated (all be- paradoxical situation that the effort to |cause he is getting nothing to eat. all obtain food induces vomiting and not of it being lost at each meal) medical | attention is necessary. To experiment with different kinds of foods, while the baby starves, is cruel and futile. Medi- cines can be used to relax the tight. little opening of the pylorus. or_thick | foods are exceedingly helpful. Some- times an operation is necessary. A doctor who understands the condition should be consulted before definite steps are taken for treatment. the food taken. Sometimes the elements of the food itself are all awry, and these, when cor- rected, will end the vomiting. Too rich | high in fats, may cause baby to spit up long after 'eating. emptying of the stomach and while food is in the stomach any undue ex- ertion may cause it to be spit back. BY ALLENE SUMNER. Jeanne dropped in the other evening to display her new apple-green shoes and little apple-green embroidered silk bag, both to match her apple-green print dress. “I had a harder time getting these than that funny off-chartreuse color to match my evening dress,” said Jeanne, and then reminded us that she also had orchid and blue shoes and bags to match her wardrobe in those respective colors. Jeanne’s nmew green shoes and bag | launched us all into a conversation on the subject of what.it meant to be well dressed today as contrasted with the not so many years ago. 5 Mother reminded us of the day when a good “Sunday or best” dress, espe- cially if of taffeta that would “stand alone,” “Sunday hat” and shoes were considered sufficient wardrobe. “We never thought of matching shoes and hats and bags and stockings to every dress,” she said. “One hat and one coat and one bag and one pair of shoes were our allowance. Green hats for green dresses and orchid hats for orchid dresses were luxuries fit only for the princesses in fairy tales.” But there is no need talking about the extravagance of our modern stand- ard of living in dress. After all, when one applies sound economic iples, the m%r: “things” people have, the more they can have. The more pro- duction that a country engages in, the wealthier it is. But that is a general iple which applies with extreme ity to the individual case, for when the father of several daughters, with an income of $150 & month, finds that he is e: to outfit those daughters the general standard of dr and hats trock, it comes rather hard. Perhaps one reason.parents fight so many school on the subject of whether their chifdren may go te school sans_stockings is simply because are laid so low by the silk stocking cost problem that they are quite willing to have a modern viewpeint about bare And yet dressing a daughter today, with ofir scale of average incomes, may | & breast milk, or the use of cows’ milk. | Fats retard the | Keep Up to Standard be no harder than ‘in the day ‘When it took all the year's oats or wheat to buy the Winter mmp 2 Keeping_ uyp * with standard of living ‘has always ‘been a problem for the average purse. oy New é:)i;;s for New Wardrobes Here are some of the colors that are mentioned when new hats, dresses and accessories ars discussed: Capucine or nasturtium ecolor—used in combination with brown, especially ml sw:"l bl ther & brigh imperial blue, ra E Y it shade. Castilian red. ‘Tobacco brown. Cactus brown--a reddish tone some- thing like russet. - Titian—also a reddish brown used in combination with .yellow for evening. Shagbark tan—another reddish brown. A new beige—favored by Jane Regeny—that has a suggestion of mauve about it, and is obviously. in- spired by the tones of the blue fox, which is, of course, not & blue at all but a lovely soft light brown. Vi;;egar. Fi;or. It is a good idea to prepare bottles t;l'lpeclllly fivmfledfl.vln!nn that will very useful voring meats and making salads. The foundation vine- gar thould be a good guality malt or cider vinegar. specially flavored vinegars, Have a pint jar and in this place the leaves of the flavoring you desire, filling the jar locsely with them. Now ecover ¢ Wi the vinegar and cover the jar. it ;:nd!oxthreeweennndflunq in To make tarragon vinegar you will to [ need tarragon leaves fresh ones if you and shoes and bags to match every | usini gar calls for chervil, and celery vinagar calls for the young white leaves from a head of ecelery. In er gather p of nasturtium seeds and