Evening Star Newspaper, June 7, 1931, Page 43

Travel Clothes Double-Duty Dresses Reduce Luggage to the Minimum. Practical Fabrics Used—Brown Ideal Color—Blue Also Favored. complexions, no longer desirable from a fashion point of view, the dusky hues of sunburnt things are seen in clothes. They enhance the Vic- torian pallor of the newly fashionable door girl, who has kept her nd-cream complexion under a ossal breadth while she sunned herself at spring resorts. Brown is a good practical color for travel clothes. Those who create new styles have done some serious thinking on economics, and therefore there are practical developments in dress to re- port. Boucle woolens. RAVELERS this Summer will have a brown appearance. In the absence of deep sun-tanned and other rough- surfaced, spongy cloths, are chosen for travel coats in clear browns, brown and white mixtures, and, as second choice. the blue and white 1 s | Little attention need be given to coats made from cloths such as thesz. and the tailor’s and cleaner’s bill is nil on a trip, | as far as the coat is concerned. Coats | of these new woolens are indispensable | for steamer and motor travel. You may throw them about as you like | amount of hard usage or stormy weather | can make them wrinkle, and further- more, they are smartest type of coat for gentler wea | P | TTRAIN & in Summer requires 1 different tvpe of coat, and for this purpose the long silk coat is st e as being the bast. It is a good idea to have two or three dresses that look as if they were made to go with this coat one the same color as the coat. another of printed silk, because it has some of the same qualities as the wool coat sug- gested above, and a third dress of pastel colored silk. Eggshell color is smart with a dark coat. and may be worn with brown, blue or black. The latter frock should be of fairly heavy silk and tai- Jored. If made to look like an afternoon dress i: loses its smartness in the traveler's wardrobe. Lace has gained favor as the fabric of at least one of the evening gowns of the voyager since the introduction of the non-crushable laces in bold, smart patterns that look almost as #f worked in linen threads. The lace dress need be neither black nor white, those two standbys of the unimaginative, since there is every shade under the sun in these new laces. | Even smarter than the all-lace dresses are those of satin, chiffon or | sheer crepe in combination with lace, | the latter in the form of a deep lace ! ruffie or a series of curved flounces. R #T"RANSATLANTIC voyages may be made quite comfortable by carry- ing only two evening gowns, although it is desirable to have three as well a5 one in-between dress consisting of a very informal evening gown or a dress | that we in America refer to as formal afternoon dress. With a little jacket to wear as part of the ensemble you will find use for this costume, especially if You cross on one of the smaller boats, where you will wear it on Sunday night and perhaps the night before vour ship docks. when most of vour packing is done if you are an efficient traveler. Elimination is important in deciding on the number of pairs of shoes you will carry with you, and reverse your tactics in the choice of gloves. Choose each pair of shoes with the thought of having them serve as many purposes | as possible. and take fewer than you | think you will need. | Most_of your gloves should be wash- able. One Fifth Avenue shop is show- ing some smart 8 and 12 button kid | gloves that are washed as easily as you wash your hands and that need not be | soaked through w'*h water. Washable | plgskin gloves are for rougher wear, | and in between are the suede and, if | you like them, the fabric gloves, so Well done that they look like doeskin. B which, because of its lightness, is de- sirable for any traveler. and bags are made on frames of im- ported basswood, covered with canvas treated with a paint that makes it | waterproof and washable. The trim- | mings are russet or black cowhide, and | gay painted stripes in different color combinations make the baggage easily identified. All hangers in both the small cases and the trunks are alum- inum. Long Velveteen Coats. PARIS (#).—Velveteen full-length coats are the “dernier cri” for sports wear. Mme. Rene Revillon, who is among sponsors of the Vogue, was seen at the races at Longchamps recently in | agbeige velveteen model worn over a | sforts frock of light-weight brown wool. | Other fashionable women are choosing | velveteen coats of a new raspberry red. | They are. designed along _simple, | straight lines and worn witnout belts. | Knitted Sport Ties. PARIS (#).—The knitted ties which their brothers wcre in prep school d are added as a finishing touch to de- | butantes’ Summer sport togs. Most of and are worn tied in a four-in-hand Gold, crimson and white are a favorie color combination. | ATS should be as becoming as pos- |’ sible, but at the same time they should take up litt® space, and since most hats meet this latter require- | ment, take-as many of them with you as you can afford, because they do | so much toward varying your ensembles. | Large hats are not to be considered. | The hats with small brims should have | soft, crushable crowns, and the knitted and crocheted turbans are a joy to the | traveler. i New this season are the crocheted lisle and cotton hats that are sufficiently | important to wear with any light- colored silk dress that one might wear | on_a country week end. 1o this page we have shown some , Of the best of the airplane luggage, Both trunks | Left to right: Blue camel's hair coat, dark blue georgette suit with striped blouse, brown crocheted wool suit with white crocheted Llouse. Fashion Cable PARIS, May 28. THE Prench national tennis championship s bringing out numbers of broad-brimmed, transparent hats, nsually in pas- tel colors to maich the dresses with which they worn Suits of shantung, rajah silk n, with jackets reaching to the hipbone, are worn with white cotton-mesh blouses, while short, sleeveless dresses, with sleet bolaros or jacke also are po Light green the favored and moss; green are colors, tollowed. in the order tion~d, by vellow, white, usuclly with color ac- cents. blue and vink Raffia sunshades in bright col- ors and a-few Style for Each Type The cotton evening dress differs from the silk one in style and silhouette as well as in material, for there is a defi- nite differc between what one may expect from chiffon or georgette, from satin or taffeta, and what we look in an organdie, a dotted swiss or a batiste. For each type of material there are No |them are made of neavy knitted silk |different styles and generally speaking the cotton styles are more picturesque, more demure and perhaps more youth- ful than the s An unlined coat of brown crepe de chine with threequarter sleeves i worn over a brown and white print dress, Black lace makes a practical evening gown for the ‘wel«. Aviation suit of cadet blue gabardine and cam vas-covered aviation luggage. BY MARY MARSHALL. i F you insist on really long hair, what then? I Your quarrel is not with the hair- dressers—who are willing enough to devise new ways of arranging long tresses. It is the milliners who are holding out against giving us hats that will accommodate longer tresses. For unless you have a very small head you will find that a large quantity of hair is difficult to dispose of. Because any thing like a bulge at the back of the head throws the new hats out of line | entirely. One possible solution of the problem is to arrange the long hair in a soft coil at the nape of the neck below the hat. A young woman with a regular profile has adopted this fashion. She brushes her slightly wavy hair straight back from her forehzad, allowing the hair at he sides to wave slightly over the ears. 'he smooth straight line is continued down the back of the head and at the nape of the neck the hair is twisted in a long coil that is held in place with a flat barette. * x ¥ ¥ A NEW evening coiffure, inspired by Second Empire fashions, is known as the Ninon. Here the very softly waved hair is drawn straight back off the forehead. The ends are arranged in dozens of very small close curls that extend from the top of the head to the nape of the neck at the back. If you like you ‘may simply brush your short hair back from the forehead and apply a postiche of small tight curls to the back of the head. If you use your own hair you will find this a rather difficult arrangement to achieve, but one that is PARIS, May 28. COSTUME which created a real stir of interest was glimpsed in the Bois on Sunday. The skirt was of black flat crepe, while the jacket was of soft of georgette in the same color. The ccat was a clever little fitted cutaway, caught in at the waistline with a single button. The material of the jacket also was used for the hat, a modiried tricorne, given shape by regular rows of silver stitching, which matched the button on the jacket in tone. Chanel again has startled the world of fashion with her jewelry and matck ing bag clasps which look like assem- blies of porcelain beads. but are in reality of galilith. White and the her favorite colors, and make the ac- cent notes of the dark costumes with which they are seen. ‘This light accent note is one to be considered in conection with hand- bags. Everywhere one goes these,days one meets the white leather bag. The rage for light purses has been anticie pated in linens, but had not been ex- pected to invade formal town wear at such an early date. A radiant brunette at the gala open- ing of Ambassadeurs wore a frock of pale lime-green satin, with a full-length coat of ivory satin. The coat d rounded corners at the front, but actually touched the floor in the back. A draped collar of the heavy satin s up to frame the face, while the short sleeves, ending in a turnback cuff just over the point of the elbow, were flat pleated all around the,top and released 0 & puff above the cuff. The dress had a simple bodice, with a square decolle- tage h back and front. A folded drape in the skirt at about yoke depth descended a little in the back and was suggestive of the Greek chiton. The skirt gained its width by circular cut- ting. ¥ine-red velvet made another outfit that attracted a good deal of attention. The hip-length jacket was marked by out-turned seams extending about half an inch for the bottom four inches. The dress was merelxllmpk. fitted to Jewelry and Bag Clasps dove-gray peau d'ange, and the blouse | lightest shades of pink and blue are Hats Govern Coiffures Hair Must Be So Arranged That It Takes No| Room Under Slim Silhouette of New Mode—| Some Possible Solutions of Season's Prob- lem—New Version of Swirl. ‘ , unquestionably flattering to a youthful | face Easier to achieve is the new coiffure |known as the Rolande. which was in-| spired by the hairdressing modes of | the revolutionary period in France. The hair is parted in the middle. brushed smoothly down on either side, where the | front locks are fastened above the ears | with jeweled barettes. The ends are |arranged in neat curls over each ear| while the back hair is brushed smoothly down over the back of the head and curled up at the nape of the neck. * ok % % | WWHETHER you part your hair direct- Iy in the center of the front. brush it straight back or part it at one side depends on which vou find most be- -oming. You may possibly find the back | part becoming. It is at least worth | trying. The hair is parted across the back about four inches up from the | lower hair line and the part is con- | tinued on either side around to the fore- | head. The back hair is brushed down | at the back, and over the ears at the | sides where it is arranged in soft up- | ward turning curls. Meantime the front | hair is brushed forward where it is ar- | | ranged in a softly curling bang that curls upward a little at the front d is spread down over the temples. Or you ma part your hair a trifle |above the right ear. The part should run from the side of the forehead near- |1y to the back of the head. The front | hair is. then brushed over the front | of the head in soft waves and around to the left side. The back hair below the part at the right side is arranged | |in neat curls. This is the new version of the swirl colffure that is flattering to the woman with a too high forehead. | the figure, with a widened skirt, and | | V decolletage both back and front. The | |only ornamentation was an appliqued girdle, with slender points extending to the decolletage both center, back and | front. Lelong’s black met and tulle skirts, headed by a plain sash of black cire ribbon and worn over pastel-colored frocks have been accepted. The skirts are marked by ruffles, ruchings, tucks or gathered bands in various forms. In various types they were noted both at the Ambassadeurs and the Lido gala, over pink and green satin, and in the deepest brown over lovely moonlight ue. Mme. Schiaparelli was noted the other day in a snug little hat of black velvet with rolled bands of white ap- plied like a cord, framing her face. Her black crepe ensemble was marked by a necklace of several rows of white porcelain beads, fastened with a large porcelain clasp. D. L. M. Fichu fietur;s. PARIS (#).—The fichu, favorite frip- pery of Marie Antoltrette, has come into vogue for modish moderns. .Chiffon evening gowns in the new Moroccan red or Algeriau blue are fin- ished with ruffed fi~hus draped softly across the shoulders. Some black satin dinner frocks have fichus of ivory or thell pink net caught in a soft bow at the waist line. Folding Straw Hat. PARIS (#).—Folding hats which can be tucked into a_pocket, handbag or traveling bag are Paris’ latest headgear innovation. The hats, both small and wide-brimmed, are made of pliable transparent straw which does not crease when folded. Many of them have different colored transferable rib- bonmummtmqwhwomi with several frocks, Left to right: Collarless coat of brown rough wool and crocheted hat of tan Lisle, navy blue boucle dress with blue and’ white ttriped sash, coat of rough surfaced wool trimmed with wool flow- er and worn with a brown knitted cap. New Bracelets TINY elephants of translucent glass, as beautiful in color as the glass of rare church win- dows, are the charms that dec- orate the new talisman bracelets that members of the smart young set are referring to at the mo- ment as “perfectly divine.” Eight to ten of the “lucky bracelets” are worn cn one arm at the same time, sounding li tinkling temple bells with every movement of their wearer. One of New York's best rhops intro- duced this fad. In a few days slim, smartly shod fcet had beat- en a path to the shop door and the owners of the feet were buy- ing the bracelets, not in twos and threes, but in dozens, for they are very inexpensive. Cool Combination. NEW YORK (#.—Coolness com- bined with attractiveness seems to have been in the minds of the designers of | this Summer's clothes. A fetching one-piece dress suitable for almost any occasion from morning shopping to afternoon tea combines ecru net with figured brown and white silk. The waist, with its short puX sleeves, is made of the net. A little bolero sleeveless jacket of the silk matches the skirt. S e — —— et YRS = S T Lovely Little Coats. little coats are worm over | Summer evening dress’s. They are made in many fab: many styles Some have short sleeves, some have capelets over the arms. some are really |capes One cape is made of finely | pleated chiffon cut in points around the lower edge. Another cape is made of crisp. stiff taffeta, with tne back shirred in_between the shoulder blades. |~ These little coats and capes are made !in all the colors of the :ainbow, and in | black and white as well. If you sew cleverly, they are not difficult to make. And they certzinly add much to the ef- fectiveness of the Summer wardrobe Some of them have a band of fur around the elbow sleeves. Flower Designs. By the Associated Press White sports suits and dresses seen at country clubs around Washington are blossoming out in gay fower de- signs. Some of the flswers are painted ,and some embroidered. They form deep borders on the pleated or plain whit> skirts, ornament the blouse fronts and sleeves. The white polo coat, popular | several Summers ago, has been revived A lace skirt is a practical note on this ice-green evening gown, with bodice of tucked satin. The black crepe de chine coat has cape small Aat is of white peau dange. es. The |Summer Asks 3 New Curtains Summer is a time to make the most of windows and of all the air we can get. However, most of us have an aversin to a too bright light in Summer. Awd many of us must veil our windows go | that neighbors won't seem too closé.. | So. though we like air, we must have | curtains—to keep out the light on ob- | casion ar to keep out curious eyes.~ | If you live in the country the win- dow curtains should be a frame far the view the window affords. For Sum- mer green met curtains are very Af- tractive. Their color is soft and coel- ing. and in some shade they fit info almost any color scheme. A blue grean or a yellow green—the two shades ate Imost different colors, so far as their adaptability to other color schemes goess 3 If you have windows with good views, make the green net curtains with a heading at the top. and then sew them |on rings and run them over a smgil {rod. This will enable you to pull them back and forth at will. If you wigh to tone down the light. pull the cut- | tains over the window. But if the light is not too bright, pull them back.&n |make a frame at each side for the | view without. ¥ | You can make a room seem larger by substituting the simplest sort -ef | et curtains for one of figured vaile | or cretonne. And this is another ad. vantage in Summer—to make the ap- parent size of rooms bigger. You can help this process by putling away va- | rious ornaments that aren't needed and by rearranging the furniture so that there will be a bigger sweep of space in_your rooms. ‘There are many sorts of attractive material for Summer window curtains other than green net. Net comes in any color. And perhaps figured cre- tonne will be just what you want to take the place of expensive silk Winter curtains, Soft (iul;ls In New Mode Are you taking advantage of the new, more becoming fashions in hair dressing? 3 You have. of course, accepted the new longer skirts and higher waistlines. You have learned how to wear the ngw picturesque evening dresses with suit- able insouciance. You have found the more feminine silhouette decidedly flattering, and you have acquired the knack of wearing your hats off ydur forehead without embarrassment. And | perhaps you have devised a new waylof |arranging your hair that is as up o date and as becoming as your clothes, your accessories and your hats. Buf, if you have not, then this is an excellent | time to go about it. R Remember that the severely simple, | bobbed coiffure is as unsuitable to the | new more feminine fashions in dress.as | an elaborate pompadour coiffure was | with the short skirts and straight g§il- | houette that prevailed a few years ago. | And remember, too, that the most gp- to-date dresses and hats will not make you look smart if you persist in ar- ranging your hair in a bygone mode. From the point of view of the hair dressers, all the world of women is di- vided into three groups—those with short hair, those with long hair and those with hair that is partly grown, and for the time being the third class | has the advantage. It is for them that most of the newest modes of hair dressing are devised. . If your hair is long. you had Best keep it well thinned and trimmed, be- cause there is no place within the | present-day scheme of things for & bulging chignon, and unless your head is exceptionally small. you will e difficulty in wearing ths new hats. as they should be worn if you have a large knot of hair to dispose of. If your hair is still really short, our | advice is to let it grow a little—that is, unless you want to resort to false bair to attain the more picturesque coiffures required for formal aftermoon | and evening wear. Many Prench wom- | en follow this method. . |Summer Furs Return. . g PARIS (#.—Summer furs have re- turned to vogue stronger than ever as & | result of the collarless coat vogue. Ths new Summer furs are larger than former seasons, double silver fox scarfs hanging to the knees being the favar- ites. Astrakan, galyak ana ermine scarfs are also much worn. Hawaiian Mode. NEW YORK (#).—Ostrich feather leis worn lightly around the shoulders as the Hawaiians wear their flower gar- lands strike a smart fashion note for Summer evening wear. ‘They come either in colors to match the gown or in contrasting shades. ‘When the same color as-the gown they are often tipped with biack. x