Evening Star Newspaper, May 4, 1930, Page 57

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGT D. G MAY 4, ‘1930—PART THREE. -Demi-Season Fashion Problem Requires Much Care in Planning BY HELEN DRYDEN. that are truly | a problem, as far as assem- | bling of clothes is concerned. Such a short time this demi-sea- | son lasts, too—yet with its at-| tendant social affairs—that the ward-| robe that efficiently covers all | for serious thought and planning. { Fashion as it is this season seems more Summer day in town. For all frocks seem airier and cooler—not so uncom- | fl:""“‘ and tallored as they have , consequently more adapted to gay party moods, as well as the role they! play In our serious moments. It is really an absorbing problem, this one of | the in-between season wardrobe, and | to consider the various ways of con- uering it should prove an exciting liversion. * % % % N the first place, there are any num- B of vivacious little frocks that are ral light in color to wear now under & ocoat. Yet they are so bright and summery-looking that they are quite as fitting for wear later, and also fit into the country picture perfectly. And that last phase of their usefulness is something well worth considering. These frocks are to be seen now in all smart| shops, and a delightful array they are. Some are in bright floral prints, two-tone patterns are of the newest and | smartest, and lend themselves to the| ensemble idea with far more distinction | :l‘mnmthe multi-colored flower gardens old. ‘Then there are plain-colored frocks | in heavenly pastel shades. There are bright colors with a fresh, almost trans- t quality that are quite cool look- | Efi?«nhded. grayed colors that are mar- | vels of lubtlety& - * | WHLTH!:R they are done in print or | plain color, many of these new frocks have short sleeves. They have capes, cape sleeves, bolero jackets, and are semi-formal in effect. Crisp, frilly| bits of lingerie in light colors or white give them a refreshingly cool air. A/ clever touch is & circular white organdy | coliar, or a short bell-shaped sleeve | with an under ruffie of organdy. The! Tesult is l.mlnn.lfinehh! | The fitted hip line hug\-'en wm the softly flu or draped i belted at the no waist line with a/ narrow belt of self-material. Along with the fashions for this in- between season there comes the silk| suit frock, a costume that has in itseif | all the smart correctness of an ensem- | ble and eliminates the necessity of a coat with no loss of that well dressed | air. But the silk sult frock really shines | ‘lg!u!dn:mmu;. Mwnrtn'mmlt,l:‘ most_comfortable thing imaginable, for it is really no more than a cool silk frock, but so cleverly designed, with its separate jacket or bolero effect, that the completeness of the suit is pre- served for smartness’ sake, * k% | A:(hz‘ for instance, the dress shown own on this in a large ¥ flotud mn%fl. b“ihe“ veless bolero & mere e, certainly has a " Iot of dash as & suit.’ Dresses of this | Socans L an w t.l::moblml ot £ e, and solve being quite correct and quite ‘without the possibility of melting y. Then there are .suits with long- sleeved jackets and short-sleeved dresses | —some that have capes, often detach- i able. Of course, as many of them are H mfl;& -'n plain and All“ln df:xi ly chic for season, & it { Seliet Tor the hot weather, i | . With each new season’s fashions there ds an attendant host of accessories de- signed particularly to complement the style trend. They are quite as impor- tant as the new suit, coat or frock; for 's acoessories take away the portance from the newest and give it a decidedly old (Copyright, 1930. § Becomes Greatest Fashion Gift for Present Spring. Various Collars Per- mit Dress to Assume Large Number of| Disguises, Suggesting Moods. 'ASHION'S great gift to women this 8pring is the chic of the lingerie o T el e 2 e e you learn t art of de that there masqueras is n a ehange of collar. If you haven't tried the flattery of a soft pale pink chiffon neckline to your + frock, you will ha believe what it | does for the face and feelings. | If you haven't learned the fashion | facts of collars and cuffs, take an afterncon off and linger over the counters in some of the department There are white touches, beige fouches, pale green, pale gray, blue, pink and multi-colored touches. Take that navy blue dress you have been wearing, or the black one. Try out a neat little white silk pique round- ed collar and jabot made in one, with ouffs in the same cut. Or perhaps you might look better if you use some of the blas folds of pale pink organdy. They stand up pertly, especially inside a rounded neckline, ang give dash to a frock. r work or school, get lflntflllfl{ that washes—not just material tha ‘washes, but consider the way the collar ' i3 made. Pleats never can be pressed in in just the same way. Fluting is out of the question. ‘The newest collars and cuffs for day- time wear have ruffies, jabots, ties or bows at the front. If you want to be quite individual, choose a one-sided collar-and-cuff set, such as a rounded collar of georgette curving from the left shoulder across the back, the right side and the front and ending on the left, side in a diamond-shaped, long- in-the-center jabot. Cuffs to match it §0 around the wrist, point up on the outside and at the top have a little fluting. It takes a young girl, beautifully pro- rtioned, to wear a square collar. -necked ones are better for most'girls, for there is something flattering about the V neck. Bowknots of batiste and lace can be elther sewed at the V front of a plain- collared neck or at high-cuff position on_sleeves One very delectable collar-and-cuff set of pale green, rose and soft beige flat crepe uses the three colors in rib- bons to round the neck and spread into # kind of shamrock at the end, to make a jabot. If you have any knack for sewing, u can make cute little sets from ndkerchiefs; or, for that matter, from plain, fine linen, organdle, chif- fon, georgette, flat crepe or any other of the fine materials. » Perhaps the newest thing is & capelet eollar of lovely pink Alencon lace and chiffon that slips over the head of & sleeveless frock. It has a V neckline of the lace and the little epaulets of the pleated chiffon, lace edged. Quite the most original collar is one that stands up inside the neck of a tailored frock. It is made of organdie " The dress that is complete and cor- rect as a street cocstume finds a smart exponent in this simulated bolero frock with a clever underblouse of white. There are white touches at the neckline end cuffs, too, and buttons and a belt buckle of crystal. A sleeveless bolero jacket makes this dress above an ideal costume for Spring and Summer town wear. The dress itself is long sleeved and made of a large whit. polka dotted material. The soft draped collar and cuffs have a flattering manner. A duotone print makes this delightfully feminine frock. Quite large bows tie the waistd line belt and are at the meck and short puff sleeves. For the rest of its graceful line there are diagonal seams on the blouse end hip, and a full circular skirt. overlook these little gestures to fem- inine charm. They are coaxers to beauty. We all need them. Look them over and get some ideas! ‘The number of disguises which & dress may assume the use of various oollars is surprising. It may be in turn coquettish, de- mure, gaminlike, or ladylike. The same dress may serve for the office and the dinner following work, by the change in the neckline. Once upon a time | collar and cuffs followed one or two set designs, and those who wore them had no opportunity to practice indi- viduality. Today, when they are as varied as the flowers of a Summer garden, and as colorful, no one may nlg':auu this necessary accessory of mo- n; y. A black dress becomes an entirely different garment when a white collar and cuffs break the sameness. Fre- quently brunettes who hesitate at black because of a fear that they can't com- Efll with their golden-haired sister- ood change their minds decidedly when they add a white collar and cuffs to_the black dress in question. ‘While a yellow head is always strik- ing above a black dress, the addition of the collar and cuffs adds a certain chic that makes a dark one equally effective. Pink, used in this manner, is equally striking and will add a warmer flesh tone to many faces. ‘The material used and the style of the collar naturally are determining factors in the effectiveness of this im: portant accessory. But with such v riety as is offered this Spring there is » good touch for every one's style. > (Copyright, 1930.) o Pick-Up Work Is Too Attractive Did it ever occur to you that if yeur | so-called pick-up work 1s too attractive it will cease to be pick-up work and will become the absorbing interest of the day? That is, if you have & sweater in the making you may decide you will leave | it where you can do it in leisure mo- | ments, when the duties of your house | do not call you. But you find the work- | ing out of the patfern so absorbing that | you linger over it, and it serves as a| temptation to keep you away from the regular routine of your work. The fact that it keeps you is not so bad as the fact that anything that keeps you from your regular work becomes a source of annoyarce and irritation. You are an- noyed with yourself because you do no: get your regular work done, and yet {0\1 cannot resist the temptation to eep at work on the sweater. Of course, the sweater is soon fin- :ll("l"ed and you have no pick-up work e Now, there is one sort of pick-up work that will never tempt you to negw lect your other work. That is the weekly mending. Yet there will always be on hand just enough of it to take up your idle moments. If you make a habit of putting it in a large mending bag to be kept somewhere on the ground floor, on the porch in Bummer, you will see that it is not difficult to get through with it every week. ‘There is never good sense in spend- ing an entire day mending once a month, or every six weeks. The best sort of mending is a little done every week. Another sort of good pick-up work consists of the buttonholes to be put on new clothes that you have made. They, like mending, will probably not offer | structure, |tic may indicate, more or less, indo- | dining-room buffets and sideboards, as Dos Your Ch'n Tell About You? The bony formation of the chin does not always agree with the muscular or fleshy form and persons whose chins are soft are inclined to be more easy- going than those whose chins are hard and bony. Projecting chins are said to indicate avaricious and stingy disposi- tions, but this applies only when the projection is actually part of the bony otherwise the characteris- lence, love of pleasure or a pronounced sense of humor. Markedly receding chins are said to indicate weakness and lack of force of character, but many very able and brilliant men and women have had chins that receded from a perpendicu- lar line from the lower lip. A reced- ing chin should therefore be considered & sign of weakness only when it is also flat or relaxed. The receding chin habitually held in a drooping position is certainly an undesirable feature. Chins indented in the center indicate # steady, resolute nature. Long, broad chins often indicate pride and lack of feeling. Unusual length of face from the mouth downward is said to indicate gluttony. Most singers have chins that are fairly wide and not short. Narrow, pointed chins have long been said to indicate feeble digestion. Per- sons with broad, plunt chins are said to have unusually god chances of long life. Built-In Furniture More and More Used It is an interesting situation that makes a clothes closet a part of the house in which we live and a bureau an article of furniture that we carry about in a van when we move from one house to another. More and more houses are coming to contain as part of their permanent fixtures articles that one were carried about from one house to another when their occupants moved. Permanent washstands set up by the plumber have about taken the place of the old-fashioned washstand that was a part of the bed-room set. Set laun- dry tubs have taken the place of the tubs that had to be lifted every time they were used. Electric lighting fix- tures have taken the place of lamps that were part of the movables of the house. There is now a tendency to push this | movement even farther and to make well as dressing tables and chests of drawers, part of the original equipment of the house. conceived as part of the woodwork and finished to match. This makes moving day simpler, but when one has so many things attached to one's house, moving days are less popu- lar. The more of your furniture is at- tached to your house, the more attached you become to the house yourself. One young woman, whose dream house is now being realized, discovered that she could have a buffet built in her dining room that would comé up to her high standards of practicability and real beauty for $50. Built-in furniture is especially desir- able in the children’s rooms and in the nursery. Shelves or drawers that are part of the woodwork offer much space and few crevices for the collection of dust. A low, fairly broad window seat in the children's room or nursery will do away with most of the chairs. Bread Crumias. Add dried brown bread crumbs when terial could fashion it, for it is its htness that gives it chic. ‘There is by fiwmu out for washing. No other no reason why you should enough stimulation to tempt you to ng vanil neglect your other work, they are not unpleasant and are up| best to make and put down again, making vanilla ice cream snd you will find the result delicious. » Prench this—that s, ane made from Has Consuming Curiosity Child of 4 or 5§ May Ap- pear To Be Destruc- tive, But Merely Ex- hibits Natural De- sire to Investigate. BY OLIVE ROBERTS BARTON. an.na a flower, Betty.” “A flower!” Betty looked pleased and regarded her small son with affec- tion. “Yes, certainly, dear.” The bouquet of roses and fresia with three calla lilies her father had sent in honor of her anniversary that morning was too wonderful a thing to spoil, but she was too curious and too pleased by this request of her rowdy young son to refuse. She extricated a rose and a spray of fresia and held them out. “Thank you,” said Jack, putting them to his nose and sniffing loudly. “I want one of the big white ones, too. Betty hesitated. But Jack had been problem and she would do almost anything that might bring out the “bet- ter” side of his nature. “All right,” she asquiesced. It was a nice morning. Jack went to play, the flowers clutched in his hot little fist. The feed store wagon with its team of mules had lwpg.d next door. Jack was on the sidewalk regard: ing them intently, The driver was get- ting a slip signed. Lunch time! “Come on in, Jackie. Oh, where are your pretty flowers? Did you lose them?” Jackie had to think. Then he volun- teered: “The man's horse ate them. He spit one out. The big white one. It didn’t smell. He liked the rest.” “Jack!” You didn't feed those hor- rible mules my precious flowers! Oh, you're hopeless!” She jerked his bib into place and spread his bread. ‘“‘Here, you can eat this lovely big ap- ple outside. Mother wants you to be out another hour before nap time. What? Oh, you want that big giant ap- le instead. I was saving it for daddy, ut I'm glad you're hungry. Now run " She kissed him, and the door mmed. That night Tom came in. He had been rolling the lawn. “Betty, this drain pipe's got to be kept clear. There's something in it. I noticed it's clogged. Where's my 3. flash? uh! It's a big red apple. Say, kid!” He looked at his son. “If you didn’t want that. why sneak it in here?” “It wouldn't go down till I took two bites off. Then I pushed and pushed,” said Jack. His parents looked at each other hopelessly. All his life Jack will hear about what & holy terror he was when he was little. He wasn't a terror at all. Just as nor- mal, nu;"e l( little fellow as :‘vt{' hudd, possessed of a oonsuming curiosity an experiment that go with all normal development at 4 or 5. They say he “sneaked” about the ap- ple. If they had listened to his answer they'd have known. He didn't throw it away deliberately. It wouldn't go down whole, so he bit it until it fitted. He wanted the apple to put down that hole. For days he'd been looking for some- thing the right size. He was_more impulsive about the flowers. t is, he took the flowers for som experiment, he didn't know wha . Later he began to wonder what mules ate. Did they eat flowers? Yes, all but calla lilies. ‘We should watch those little people of 4 or 5 and try to analyse their ap- parent destructiveness. Explanation and talking will do a good deal. Whipping and‘scolding won't. Hamburg Roll. It is possible to make numerous adaptations of this dish. Freshly chop- ped round steak should be purchased from the butcher and wrapped carefully in wax paper until one,is ready to use it. The meat is then made either in flat cakes or, as in this case, formed into a long sausage-shaped roll several inches deep. This roll may be flattened out and broiled in a well greased wire broiler. As prepared for this menu, it is cooked in this fashion: Have ready & well ofled dripping pan and heat this sizzling hot. When the beef roll is firmly shaped, this should be carefully seared and the juices retained. This roll is then placed in the dripping pan and one may pour around it either brown gravy madeé from a little of the beef dripping, nicely flavored sauce of | strained tomato juice or any ired | gravy or sauce that will lend itself to | this type of cooking. The sauce is then | placed in a rather hot oven and the ;mnt is cooked, with occasional basting 80 that it keeps its moisture without \losing its shape. That Well Dre_ssed Look orate dresses, ermine coats, fancy shoes made to order, heaps of , wearing bright colora and being very extreme?” “Stop,” I said, “you sre wrong from start to finish. It is none of Je these things. with spoke, and indeed she looked it. “And how can I acquire this knowledge?” “It can be learned with time and patience reading. start; you' are young, pretty and have a lovel E few years and there develop your taste until it is really good. You have a Concentrate for Here are a few im| it rules Be appropriately traveling, golfing, than a number of che glaring. If you will will fade away Bring that sl of us o Appropriateness is the keynote of good dre Aimpllc".y and a sense of line and colur and you have somet ut T never thought of these things,” said the ymlnc girl to whom I for the occasion, overdress, Get a few wy things. Do not wear colors that are too M.Polnll in your mind, and slowly, very slowly, you really well dresged woman. “WHAT is good dressing? Is it having lots of awfully expensive, elab- wel ; to this add g to start she asked. by obssrvation and ly is no reason why you nhomm to remember. B s , dancing, ; i rathe: by wit i There are cape sleeves on this Shantung dress—done in pastel colors. mew decigns for charming frocks for Summer with its high-placed belt, the clever seaming and scalloped edges, the longer skirt with in- serted circular side pieces. Designed particu- larly for these new frocks with short sleeves are the pull-on gloves, longer in length than those of past years. Nails Show Health As Well as Beauty A friend, A foe, A present, A beau, A journey to go. T suppose you have said those lines, or something like them, over your fin- gernails as you examined them for the little white spots which for ages women have regarded with superstitious inter- est. There are young girls I know who laugh at the ides that white marks on the index finger mean foes, who never see a similar blemish on the nails of the ring fingers without sense of satis- faction. But what really causes these little blemishes? Sometimes they are 50 numerous as to detract from the beauty of the nails, Experts agree that they are to the nails what black and blue spots are to the skin—mere bruises. And some nails, like some skins, bruise very easily, If your nails show these white spots frequently, it may be simply that the nails are thin and rather sensitive. Girls of the sandy or blond type, with skins that -freckle readily, are apt. have more of these: “presents” than those whose skin is thicker or more ‘deeply pigmented. Sometimes frequent bruising of the nail indicates impaired health. Nalls that indicate good health and a vigor- ous circulation are smooth and, even when thick, of a pronounced flesh tint. ‘This means that the nails are very much alive, save for the horny outside layers. Sometimes when the circula- tion is poor the nails become brittle, dry and pale. Such nalls bruise very easily. The slightest knock may entirely check the circulation of the underside of_the nail in the bruised portion. 1f that seems to be your trouble, you should take special precautions not to bruise your nails. In the meantime you will find that with a general improve- ment of health, and particularly with more outdoor exercise. the condition of the nails will improve. The Brooms Some housewives seem to forget that brooms ever need cleaning. They should ted after using to see from dust and an ac- cumulation of strings or hairs. And re- member that brooms can be washed. To do this make good hot soapsuds in a pail and put your broom in, lifting it up two or three times, without actuslly mckln[ it. andlet m? btrlmrzr;un"ul:; e open air un rfectly dry. will flpn‘;l that it Ilp:flsp and fresh as when new. o Sparrow-Grass. You will still hear le speak of and ble dealers often " You may not know thet this form, which sounds very provincial to us, was until recently literary It had its b usage. m the idea that the word “aspa-| hy It follows the fullness while slender effect. One of the many smart spectator sport frocks that have a dashing scarf—this ome above is done in Shantung in plain color td accent the vividness of its circular ca, low-placed pleats on the side of the skirt fall from a fitted hip yoke, and_ give it necessary like scarf. The in no way detracting from the Patch pockets have turned-back flaps faced with the contrasting color. Dress for Older Woman Is Considerably More Vital and Significant Than in Other Sea- sons—Keen Interest in Subject Has Been Prolonged Far Past Years of Youth— Question of Color Is One That Should Be Carefully Considered. BY MARY MARSHALL. ASHIONS of today are youthful. ‘They are designed to the advan- tage of the girl of 20 and to the disadvantage of the girl of 40. Young people Have things all their own way. These are commonplace remarks, and we are all inclined to be- lieve them true. On the other hand, never did older women have so important a place in social activities, never has the keen in- terest in dress been tgmlonn(l so far past the years of youth, and never did older women feel more justified in tak- ing an interest in their clothes than at the present time. The fact is that the proportion of older to younger women to | s greater than It ever was before. That is & simple fact, depending on the in-| | creased average span of life as a result of better living conditions and improved health generally. ‘There are actually more women of 40 and 50 and 60 than there ever were be- fore, and women of these dignified ages are, to all intents and purposes, far {:Ilbllier than women of those ages All of which means that the subject of dress for the older woman is con- siderably more vital and significant than it used to be, and that dressmakers spend more time making clothes for ‘women past their first youth than they thought of doing when the chances of reaching middle age were smaller than they are today. * K kX THI idea used to be that a woman should marry & man & good many years her senior. Ten years' seniority was considered ideal. If a woman mar- ries a man her own age, by the time they are 40 she will look like an old woman while he will still be in his youth. That is what some people still llfi and yet as you take account of your middle-aged woman friends who have married men of their own age, or possi bly a trifle their juniors, isn't it true that most of them actually do_look younger than their husbands? I am sure that I find this to be the case, and the reason is that women's clothes can do 30 many inore things to tone down signs of age than men’s. ly also to the fact that women as a rule, in this country at least, are less opposed than men to resos to those little artifices of the toilet which makes for more youthful appearance. xx o x THERI are two ways of going about this commendable business of dress- :l:g to look young—one sound and the| er absurd. A woman I know who| ad been notably successful in choos- ing clothes for her own daughters dur- ing their flapper years opened a small| dress shop, hoping to attract the p of 45 and 50 and 60, grandmothers many of them—women of the class who have chosen the absurd rather than the sound method of dressing for youth. They hoped that by wearing clothes de- for the girl of 16 they might look a little mearer 16 than 60. Just as if a very broadly built woman might make hersel! look slimmer by wearing clothes designed for the very slender! Every one recognizes the fact that clothes for the slender are just the re- verse from clothes designed to make stout women look slender. They are not so quick to realize that clothes for the young are quite different from clothes designed to make older women look young. PR On 'HE question of color is one that | should be considered very carefully |by the woman old enough to be a grandmother. Black is capable of being decidedly smart, and is also ‘a good choice for the woman who has gained weight with the passing of the Sum- mers. But black has for s0 many years been associated with maturity and age that it should be worn with the great- est care. Nayy blue has all the smart- ness and slimness of black and none of the drabber aspects. And navy blue is charming with white or silvery hair. One mignt draw up a very helpful color chart from the colors displayed by nature through the changing seasons. The clear, light pastel tones of early 8, are loveliest when worn by the girl in her teens or early twenties, whils the woman in her late twenties and early thirties wisely chooses the more substantial ‘colors ‘0f June—daisy and buttercup yellow following the tender yellow of the daffodi’. the more vivid Tose tones after the pale pink of the hyacinth. Deeper, richer tones of late July and August might be listed for the woman of the next decade, while for the woman verging on the range of mellow hut still rich tones that we think of as autumnal are good. It is perfectly pos- sible to pick flaws with this fanciful color chart, but it is at least worth considering. * x % x 'HERE are certain adjustments that the woman approaching middle age should make in her selection of clothes. g, she should face and ac- fact that she has need of more e clothes if she expects to maintain the rance of well dressed. The fact that an 18-year-old girl can look charming in a hastily selected little evening dress with a $15 price tag attached is no reason at all why the woman of 50 should hope to. Ol uire all the advantage women req| to be gained with the more Taatoriats nod caretil workmensEiweals of young women whose h.l: able 'Om Instead 0 ber door ladies! clothes, neither good material m ‘work- can be