Evening Star Newspaper, February 23, 1930, Page 47

7 CARDIGAN OF BROWN ORION CREPE WITH APPLIQUE TRIMMING OF OSSR SRR S roiek e SN ED PLEATS OF THE SKIRT GIVE THE EFFECT OF SOFT FULLNE! ED BLOUSE IS BLOCKED WITH BROWN CREPE. FORMAL ‘WITH SHORT JACKET FASTENED WITH A LOOSE BOW AND BY A BLUE FOX COLLAR. THE BLOUSE IS OF FLESH-COLORED CREPE. Mannish Suitings, Worsteds of Sharkskin Order, Coverts and Serge Are Found. Sports Selections 1 nclude Combination of | Three Woolens—Flare at Sides Emphasized in Many Skirts — C on Short as Well Jackets. BY HELEN DRYDEN. HENEVER _the conversation turns to clothes it is sure to light on the return of the And great is the re- Jjoleing ‘at_this swing of the fashion pendulum. For the tailor-type sult has long been considered an Ameri- It is especially becom- ing to our American women, is practical and economical, and solves the problem of choosing the right costume for every suit. can institution. day-time occasion. There is a sirangely familiar look to their variety has been greatly increased until this Spring there are strictly business- like suits, the more formal afternoon While there s much overlapping of types, it is noticeabls that sports clothes are more | and more restricted to country and the 1930 versions, although sults and the sports suit. actual sports wear. Por the strictly tallored suit, of the sort that we have always associ- ated with suits—mannish ~ suitings, worsteds of the sharkskin _order, coverts and even some serge. For the more formal suit. there are suede cloth, wool crepe, chiffon kashmir, chiffon broadcloth, or light-weight ‘woolens. There are suits of the sports sort in which three woolens are combined. finer tweed for the skirt and jacket more loosely woven, nubbier tweed for the the blouse. It is in the jackets of these suits that the material is gathered in other 8t the natural waistline with a narrow trimmed with fur, but more often it is|use a small can of ready-mixed paints, belt of the tweed. * * * ¥ Tln wrist-length jacket, cutaway in front and possibly longer in the back, nipped in at the waist with a the one in which we shall greet the Spring in town, there are many of the woolens | ape of Some Sort Used as Three-quarter-length single link-button fastening, and a skirt of circular cut or with pleats let in at the front or sides—that is our picture of the 1930 tailored suit. But there are so many variations—straight coats, belted coats, peplums and cuta- ways. Even in the strictly tailored class there are the single-breasted jackets with notched collars and cutaway fronts competing for favor with double- breasted jackets showing a shawl collar. | The siraight unbelted bolero type originated with Augustabernards. Patou |favors the slightly flaring peplum with | flare at the sides accented in similar flares at the sides of the skirt. O'Rossen suit—and it has become al- buttons, four pockets and a notched | collar. "The skirts of his more taflored sults have some varlety of pleating while | those of his more dressy suits are cut circular and lapped over in the front. %% A FLARE at the sides is emphasized in many new skirts. There is usually a yoke and from it the skirt diverges either through seamed or flared | treatments, retaining straight lines in | the front and back with flares at each side, sometimes accented by the addi- tion of godets. Without exception the | hemline is even and from four to six inches below the knee. When pleats are let in they are very often left un- pressed 5o that the effect of soft fullness | is gained. You will find a cape of some sort on | t and ® patterned jersey for | short as well as three-quarter length |always have her paints mixed by the | jackets. Sometimes it is a mere cape- | let, little more than an ambitious collar | an all-around cape swinging to the elbow, or split in the back and flaring | over either shoulder. Capes are often | used on the dressier type of suit, of the | ] lighter weight fabrics. | (Copyright, 1930.) | | Health in Daily Use of Salads Selections for This Pur- pose May Be Tempt- ingly Varied—Cirisp Greens Are Most Important in Regu-| lar Diets—Tomatoes in One Home. BY BETSY CALLISTER. F course you make out menus date house wife does nowadays. It may be that you find it helpful to follow some pre- ou do you will almost surely wish to ;nllc lg;lo! revisions of the original in order to make it applicable to your own meals, be sure that you have a salad & day. If you do not have salad for dinner have it for luncheon. not include a salad, then be sure to have a good salad for supper. It seems to bé the consensus of opin- in the breakfast bill of fare. To be ture some le eat raw tomatoes for breakfast, and grepefruit, bananas and ahead of time. Every up-to- viously worked out set of menus, but if family needs. Now, as you go about If you have a midday dinner, and do S=n that salad should not be included many of the fruits used for salads are likewise commonly taken for breakfast. | But lettuce or other salad greens seems to be out of place at the first meal of the day. s So your salad meals are either the | middle meal or the late evening meal. | Some housewives simplify the matter | | by having some sort of salad every | | luncheon and thus eliminate the salad | course at Hinner. Others have a salad | | every dinner, but never a salad at lunch- | eon. If all members of your family are | at home for luncheon it is a good plan | to have the salad then. | I know one woman who throughout | the tomato season invariably has lettuce and tomato with mayonnaise salad, whole wheat bread and butter and tea { for luncheon. After fresh tomatoes have gone by she Nas fresh pear salad, and later :pg!‘ and celery salad, finally substituting banana salad or date salad, until she can afford fresh tomatoes again. This makes luncheon a rather | simple meal for her, but she does not | find it monotonous. If you have your salad at night din- { ner you may find you like best a plain | lettuce or “endive salad served with French dressing. Or you may like to top off your meal with a pineapple salad or other salad sweet enough to | satisfy your craving for dessert. But whatever you do, plan to have a salad a da Economy Sauce. One tablespoon cornstarch, few grat- ings lemon rind, one-half cup sugar, one cup bolling water, two tablespoons lemon juice, two tablespoons butter, few gratings nutmeg, few grains salt. Mix cornstarch, lemon rind and sugar; add water gradually, stirring constant- ly, and boil five minutes. Remove from fire; add lemon juice, butter and sea- | sonings. Serve hot, ? AFTERNOON most & classic—has four low placed | | With her talent for painting she was | sible through some searching to fin | it has been cooked, is better fresh than THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, FEBRUARY 23, 1930—PART THREE TWEED. THE UNPRESS- AND THE EGGSHELL COLOR- UIT OF BLACK MOUSSA RPLICE CLOSING EMPHASIZED |Gloves Are Called For in Evening For the months that remain before really warm weather gloves for evening | tinue to play an important role in the wellddressed woman's wardrobe. It is fair now to say that no formal evening ensemble is complete without its pair of long gloves, which are usually worn loosely drawn up to within an inch or 50 of the elbows. Many of the younger women choose black gloves—suede or. glace—for wear not only with black dresses, but with light-toned ones as well. ‘The more usual choice is the suede glove of white or very light tint, which may be of the pull-on sort or with a buttoned | opening at the t. At the formal | dinner_the gloves may be removed ar, if the buttoned sort are worn, the hand | section may be drawn off and tucked neatly in at the wrist. e Y g | Paint Will Do Most Anything “There’s nothing she can't do with a can of paint and a paint brush,” said | one young woman enthusiastically about |another. “And she has a perfect pas- sion for doing it, too. She'd rather paint things than eat or dance.” What this young woman liked to paint, we learned, was not miniatures, | or. portraits, or even decorations on | china, but such things as wicker furni- | ture, window sills, porch floors and even | the family automobile when it needed it. able at very small expense to transform a rather ordinary sort of sun parlor | and some odds and ends of wicker fur- niture into one of the most delightful rooms of the sort. One thing that this young woman in- sists_on, however, is that she should professional paint dealer. If she is going to do a ver small job, she will but otherwise she goes to a paint dealer who can be trusted and gets him to mix the desired quantity of paint for her, She insists that she owes much of her success to this precaution. She has also been able to furnish several rooms in her house at rather small expense by using unpainted furni- ture which she has painted to suit herself. Now many persons seem to be of the opinion that unpainted fur- niture is so expensive that it is not worth the trouble of painting it for themselves. However, it really lldpos tractive pieces of the unpainted sort at small cost. Don’'t imagine for a minute that painting is easy. One reason why this young woman likes the work 's because it really is difficult and therefore well worth her best efforts. | | Our Layer Cake. [ Most of us when we say cake mean layer cake. One of the things that the American traveler in Europe finds dis- appointing is the lack ef this American delicacy. The French, by cake, usually mean_small very richly frosted cake; the English mean rather dry loaf cakes. And some Americans go from tea shop to patiserie looking for a piece of luscious chocolate or cocoanut layer cake. Foreign visitors to the country Some- times think our cake is indigestible and over rich. However, even a rich choco- late layer cake is a perfectly whole- some dessert if it is well made. Purther- more it should be eaten alone and not an adjunct of a rich ice cream. There seems to be a general objec- tion to fresh baked things, and yet food specialists have pointed out that fresh cake, if it is thoroughly masti- cated, is more easily digested than cake a couple of days old. The butter, once after it has stood and this makes fresh cake more easily digested. Of course children must be taught | to masticate any freshly baked bread or | cake very thoroughly. If they do this | it will not hurt them unless & s too m or they have very delicate diges- of utility bags to be had. of useful they are for dressy purposes, the better. and formal afternoon wear will econ- | THE SKIRT AND SEAMIN STRIPED TWEED, SHOWING FASTENING. RED, BLACK AND WHIT MBROIDERY USEI DIAGONAL MOUSSA. THE CUTAWAY JACKET HAS SHOU ATED SKIRT AND THE BLOU A STR T. HIP.LENGTH 3 E IS OF POLKA OVELTY KNIT: YELL:OW:- SWEATEK. NAVY BLUE CREPE SUIT WITH THE LONG.FITTED COAT FEATURED BY PATOU. GIVES THE FASHION.WISE ‘STRUCTURAL LINES TO (& OUGHT TO THE SIDES BY THE CIRCULAR CUT OF THE SKIRT. ) &S Y/, 7 &7 » N 77 o ////////////////;;/.7;// _ 7777 '///{é//////////////////// -DOTTED ¢ THE HIP-LENGTH JACKET MAY B! Luxury in New Pocketbooks IniReintionships, They| D sesisiieunte et cn Are Twins in Fabrici%‘m‘}ffii’.ffifi;fi&i'@m&&;fifi? the to Hat' Shoes and estive spor purse. rd, e more Sgarf — Fashion De- clegant and dignified bag for dressy mands Every Woman daytime things, such as luncheons of importance, matinees, teas and recep- Have at Least Four Purses. tions. Fourth, the evening bag. If one travels, a dull green, calfskin rt bag, with five compartments Wm"nl their uses, such as one for passport, one for express checks and so on, is proving popular. It has & double clasp. For sports purposes, one may use the same tweed or silk as one's sult or frock, or one may have a jaunty beret, scarf and purse set in the gayest of nts from georgette to hand-blocked inen and challis. Triangle challis purse and scarf come in amber, purple and beige tones. The purse has an amber frame, as shell or silver frames are very much the vogue, A beige antelope bag from Paris is | decorated with modernistic carved and |inlaid wood. The inlay gives an ex- tremely smart and trim effect. ‘The dignified and elegant purse takes to embroidery this Spring. One French printed bag in royal blues and many | grays has an expensive platinum clasp, in keeping with the penchant which 80 many people are feeling nowadays for the ornate. Often there are hand- bags, with the frames handsome ham- mered silver, a finely jeweled metal, with chain handles. Wool is a popular and fitting decora- | tlon. Lovely colored flowers in some conventional or mogdernistic design on fallle are a g ice. Rich bits of embroidery make some Shakespeare, of course, never saw this Spring’s collection of pocketbooks or he never in the world could have written the famous line, “Who steals my purse steals trash!” More than that, handbags have de- veloped a relationship theme. They are no longer the Orphan Annies of one’s wardrobe. They are twins in fabric to one's hat, one’s shoes, one's scarf. And they are first cousins to one's ensemble and frock. In colors and material they belong to the same family as the toute ensemble. Generally speaking, the envelope §5 smarter than the handbag, after lunch. For momings, sports and travel, many women still ‘cling to the bag with leather handle, with bracelet or single strap by which to hold it. Therefore, there are infinite varieties of the type “ For sports, for shopping, for the beach, one's purse may be large enough to pack a number hings in. -But the smaller There Are Suits for .Every Type IN Paris the women'walk every morning in the Bols, ‘They realize how 8ood it is for the health and figure. .“Le footing” they so. amusingly say when they want to be very American, ey take as much time dressing for their morning walk as though they were going to a dinner party. With the French women, dressing is a serious matter never to be done hurriedly. That is the principal reason they always look chic and have won a world-wide reputation for them- selves. ‘It is not only their perfect taste in selecting clothes, but the way that they put them on. And when a French ‘woman goes out for the “footing” she invariably wears a suit. First of all because it is the cor- rect thing for the occasion. It looks better than anything else in the morning. Then, too, one can step out 5o much more freely in a skirt with some pleats than in a long coat wrapped around the body. We have had the separate coat or the ensemble with its own special codt for so long now that we all welcome a change. For months it has been hearalded that this was to be a suit Season. Now 1t is no longer hearsay. We aré in the midst of & suit seasn such as there has not been in years. There is a wide choice—from the classic tailor-made for the more mature woman to the dressmaker suit that has many variations and that is especially good for the young and slender, In selecting a suit one should be very careful to get the right cut, for the suit is not quite so kindly to the figure as the separate coat. For in- stance, a suit having a coat with shoulder cape is only for the tall, slim of these bags. They take any shape the embroidery lends itself to grace- fully. Some are very unusual in shape. Moire in black, mounted with gemrs, makes a handsome afternoon purse. For evening, the latest is the lame one. It may be gold or silver, but if it is colored it should be a little darker than one's frock. For these the envelope shape is the preferred one and to be very chic you have your mono- grem made up in rhinestones on one of the new clip shapes and clip it onto this bag. Incidentally, this same clip may be worn on a perfectly plain black antelope bag to advantage, and it also may be used on a felt turban to hoid back the flared-back brim against the crown. Beaded bags are still excellent for evening, so are brocades, so fire crepe de chine in the color of one's slippers, mmmt'ed in gems. a A few satin bags appear, some them handsomely hand-painted, and a round one in pink satin has a mother- of-pear] centerpiece that is a carved monogram. From being just something in which to carry about a little change and a hanky, purses have graduated into a really important accessory to dress. Nowadays it's this handbag for sports, this for evening, this for shopping. Feminine Manners THER! is no mistaking the fact that the new clothes are cl our manners. You simply can't be hoyden- ish and casual in frocks that can only be described as picturesque and charm- ing. Even suits emphasize this plquant character which is of such a different order from that of the abbreviated short skirt and flapperish coat of yesteryear. ‘The trend is to stress this feminine quality. It is called by different names. One designer refers to it as the Quaker influence, and achieves it in a dress of black flat crepe with a broad collar such as you will see in Willlam Penn’s portraitz. The elbow-length sleeves have a wide flared cuff and an under- cuff of pique. ‘The tendency to fullness in hem also tends to make the skirts more demure. It was well illustrated in an embroidered batiste frock belted at the h waistline with black velvet ribbon ty in & bow with long streamers in the k and a long sweeping skirt with pleated frill around the ankles. The fichu at the neck, outlined with & nar- rower pleated frill, further emphasized the feminine tendency of the new clothes, keep the flare or For Tarnished Gilt. If you have a sofled and tarnished gilt picture frame, you can clean it in an easy and Inexpensive fashion. Just brush it with the partly beat:n white of sorts of cuts and by taking a little time one can young person, as s also the coat cut with flaring g;plum. But there are all AR for figure, age and purse, an egg, to which a big pinch of baking soda has been added. Cover the whole mi:. ire and then wash it off with cold water, THE MAROCAIN CREPE BLOUSE. SM. ACKET FITTED AT THE NATURAL WAISTLINE WITH VERTIC. ON THE BLOUSE IS REPEATED ON THE L. LDER CAPELET AND IS BELTED AT THE NORMAL WAISTL our skirts well toward the |This &, ) AN 3 \ NN \ 7/ A & ) ) rares _ 177 77 J 7 N LING SUT E WORN OPEN As Trumps in Fashion nine to Last Detai Suit—Nothing the Shown in Garmen BY MARY MARSHALL. S sults have been declared trumps for we predict that, with them, fashion will score a grand slam when the game is played. One very good reason why suits will succeed this Spring as they could not have succeeded last season or at any time within the past decade is because waistiines have returned. Though not tightly drawn they are well defined and u::z are normal—and the skirt-and- Jjacket suit to be worn with any com- fort or good effect by the majority of women demands definite placing of the All during those years when it was the fashion to ignore the waistline or to locate it first above and then below the place that is called normal, sufts were almost _entirely ignored in this country. In France the tradition of the suit was carried on. The suit appeared there every Spring, sponsored as the favorite street costume by a large num- ber of well dressed women. Possibly this was because French women are willing to take more pains in matters of dress, or possibly because they never felt quite as strongly op- posed to waistlines as we did during the epoch of straightline silhouettes. * % ok x ANOTHEH factor that may have had something to do with '‘the return of the suit is the longer skirt that is now accepted as part of the mode for Spring. Only the very tall, slender woman could ever afford to wear a Jacket suit with a very short skirt. does not mean that suits are to have really long skirts—but four or five inches of material make a world of differences when they are the four or five inches that hide the knee. b woman would look grotesque now who showed her knees, ,” remarked “Knees grotesque,” “only we didn't know it.” One cannot take four or five inches below the knees as a guide for the suit length for every woman, but the rule that practical daytime clothes, in- cluding suits, should Bang about 15 inches from the ground is a good one to tflllw—r‘lfllhly a little shorter for the very tall woman, and just a shade longer for the woman who is exception- ally short. R Tml is nothing the least bit man- nish about the new suit. éven ub ‘with a flannel cRth. il & < INE. A YOKE GIVES THE SMOOTH.FITTING HIP T OF DARK BLUE WOOL CREPE, WITH FLARE TO SHOW THE WHITE GEORGETTE BLOUSE AND = = =S PLEATS, DIVERGING FROM THE FITTED YOKE, GIVE THE FLARE AT THE SIDES OF ART STREET TAILLEUR OF BROWN AND BEIGE AL TUCKS AND FINISHED WITH A SINGLE LI APEL OF THE JACKET. YOUTH /, THREE-PIECE SUIT OF OM| [N] Game, Suits Are Femi- Is of Nipped-in Waist. Longer Skirt Has Been Factor in Return of Least Bit Mannish Is ts, Even When Firm Woolen Materials Are Used. means of a slight npping-in at the watstl et, very often by a alight the sleeves about little flare over the street suit, but not one of them possibly be called mannish, (Copyright, 1930, When We Order. Dishes served “au jus” such as “roast beef au jus,” are served with their own juice—dish gravy as we would say. Au gratin does not really mean baked with cheese, but simply applies to dishes pre- pared with sauce, bread crumbs and 80 on, and then baked in the oven or under the broiler. Dishes “au naturel” are not necésarily perfectly “matural,” but are cooked plainly and simply. Di served “a I " are done in the Scotch style, “a Ia Reine” in the queen’s style, “a la Russe” in the Russian_ style and_“s Is Broche" are roasted before the fire on & Dishes ;nm mmmm for lenten h:!. ld ence app; for an dishes “au gras” are served with a rich fat sauce or gravy. » 2 Before Oranges. Can you imagine life without oranges? . ‘Without those delicious globes of sweetness and wholesomeness that even the poorest car now afford for much ¢ the year? Yet life without oranges, in the weil ern world, endured for many The first mention of them in lm was in 1290, when, in the of Edward I, record says the bought from the of & Spankh ship raisins, dates. 250 pomegranates and seven ora: Te- when they appear in distinctly saflored ver- 'And of course it fa onl tatrly cently that we have had tLu all the year round In our markets,