Evening Star Newspaper, December 22, 1929, Page 55

-Clothes for Tea, Brid — COLLAR AND GAUNTLET CUFFS OF HANDMADE LACE AND BATISTE GIVE A FLATTERING, FEMININE BLACK CANTON CREPE GOWN. UALITY - TO THIS A JABOTLIKE DRAPERY AT ONE SIDE CREATES THE IRREGULAR HEMLINE AND THE ONE- SIDED BOLERO EFFECT BREAKS THE ENSEMBLE IS COMPLETED INGS AND BLACK PUMPS. THE SEVERITY OF THE BODICE. BY SHEER GUN METAL STOCK- ’ lattering ' and Feminizing Treatments of Neckline Have Added Both Elegance and Charm—Much Attention Given to Sleeves of Formal Type of Gown—Velvet Becomes . » | Favorite and Contributes to Handsome | Afternoon Ensemble Appropriate for _Vari-_ ous Occasions. BY HELEN DRYDEN. LOTHES for formal daytime wear have attained a definite place in the wardrobe of today. We should recognize and clas- sify them just as wz do our evening or street clothes. When we at- tend a bridge, a tea cr go out to dinner it is an occasion and we should dress up for it. W2 have assumed a more formal attitude toward soclety. Why not ex- press it in our cloth=s? ‘With this classification we should in- clude the clothes we wear for dinner or the theater whem we know that the men will not wear formal evening clothes, and the dreses we wear on Sundays 'hlelnd we don't want to ap- pear in regulation evening dress. Longer skirts are just as much in e with forcks of this type as they are with formal evening dress. They need not be longer than the regulation six inches below the knee, in which case they are even all round. Many broadcloth and velvet ensembles are of this length. Afternoon are usu- ally lengthened to midway between the knee and the ankle, or they may fall in points even to the ankles. It is in the formal afternoon skirt that we find the irregular hzmn:m‘ 5 FMTI'ERING and feminizing treat- ments of the neckline have added both elegance and charm. For this purpose the cape is used in varjous ways. The fact that it adds a certain the way of trimming or color on the frock is given by lace, jeweled or spangled cuff-like ments.. Since the (mng‘o the afternoon occasion varies, so types in ‘clothes vary from the simple little crepe frock. with perhaps lace yoke and -cuffs, to lame gowns in color and fab- “1;} lEvrn es are treated very simply. N’:Ll and laces are often used, espe- clally coarse fishnet.and cire laces. While black is the first choice, brown and dahlia are close seconds. Here m "2124 ".'l;: fullness, gnp’“wd ces well below the snugly fitting hiplin Many of these black net frocks are made sleeveless and worn with gay short Jjackets, one of black chiffon, With red velvet flowers ed over it, serving for :oth & black net and a red chiffon frocl L WVET, in the dark tones with *" black in the lead £nd brown, hunt- er's green, and royal blue, all favorites, carries with it a dignity and elegance which rank it & prime favorite, espe- cially when it is softened by Alencon lace in the yoke and sleeves. A short coat of velvet with fur blending in the tones of the lace makes a handsome afternoon ensemble appropriate for every occasion. Fashioned wfllgx full youthfulness to the dress is the chief | pear] reason for its enthusiastic reception. It may be detachable, tying at the neek, or it may be a part of the frock as panels dropping at the back or over the arms. Again it may be attached at the waistline, the section below form- ing & peplum which is one of the hall- marks of this Winter's go 3 times it reaches just over the shoulders, again it extends to the waistline, veiling the arms of the sleeveless dress. Most attention is given the sleeves of this formal type gown. They can only be dispensed with when a scarf or cape vells the arms, but they are some- times shortened to the elbow, even is picturesque. fon, both the plain and the and the heavier crepes, can be easily draped to fall in long, graceful panels and godets, flounces and tiers. Here bright tones are well liked, light dahlia, tomato red, emerald green and lavender blues. In all of these filmy fabrics we find much tucking, One of the newest mod- els designed for Palm Beach is tucked horizontally from the neck to just above the knees where the flounces are ap- rl!.d.lhlpedwd.\pllmutmfiuflmr n back, and the long, straight archi- apove it. so that they appear like little caps. Very often the only contrast in BY MISSIS PHYLLIS. when you are going out for dinner at a favorite restaurant, | you decide before ever you look at g8 B i?ass il i P | 5 B % P ¥ 85 2 f ] lit i § : gfi i g LS i 1 tectural lines are gained through ver- tical bands of lace. (Copyright, 1929.) to | med hats give width. She arranges her as | 8re long-cuffed, aiways £ THE SUNDAY STAR, WASH | LEFT: YOKE AND Cl THE LONG, F C. Cl IN TF OF THE SKIRT GIVEN TO THE-BODICE FFS OF CRYSTAL BEAD EMBROIDERY 'PROVIDE A FLATTERING TRIMMING RM-FITTING SHEATH IS BROKEN AT THE SIDES BY SHIRRINGS INDICATING i NEW BLACKBERRY TONE WAS CHOSEN FOR THI TITCHING GIVING THE EFFECT OF QUILTING. THE ARE CROSSED IN FRONT AND DIP WITH SMOOTH-FITTING HIP YOKE, FROM WHICH D. C, DECEMBER 22 IN THE BACK. FALLS A DEEP CIRCULAR FLOUNC . THE PR BY SHIRRINGS, AND THE SLEEVES ARE MADE CLOSE FITTING AND LONG BY SHIRRIN Every Person Should| Dress to Her Height Very often the directions to the talll woman as to how to dress seem all to | be aimed toward making her shorter. The short weman is ad to wear up and down str trimming on her hat, high h { shoes, skirts as long as possible—all’| with an effort to add a ‘cubit te her stature. Just as if there was but one standard or type of beauty, and all our efforts were to be directed toward mak- ourselves appear as nearly as pos- e of that proportion. If you are a little woman, don't try to look tall. There is need enough for pretty little women in the world. ‘The tall woman, too, has her special charm, and she is far more apt to look charming 1if she dresses to her type, accentuating the long graceful lines, than if she wears stripes running round and round, perfectly flat hats and heel- less shoes. These things make her look shorter, but at best only a little shorter. If she put as much thought and time into an effort to look geniinely pretty she would be spending her tim® to bet- ter advantage. 5 Remember, too, that -plumpness, short of excessive obesity, ‘Is not ‘ab- normal _and is therefore not unattrac- tive. Likewise slenderness, short of emaciation, is not a sign of disease and is therefore consistent with beauty. It is undoubtedly wise for the woman of Mmu]x_lve lennnes&o(:‘r fatness to camon- er proportions according to -cer- tain well established principles of de- sign. Certain colors are in themselves “large” and certain others diminish the apparent size of the one who 1ears them. Black and navy blue are among the latter, while tan and gray are the “largest” shades on the list. 4 The excessively stout or excessively thin woman—in’ fact, any woman ,of abnormal appearance—has to depend more on her personality than women of more regular and hence more beautiful proportions. Struggle as she may the very stout woman can never charm any one by hér figure. But she can charm by her face. Her face may appear so beautiful that you forget her dispro- portionate figure, her personality can te so much good cheer and mag- netism that she is the dominant per- son in any nthmnr!. ¥ Often in an effort to minimize her stoutness the fat woman ‘arranges. her hair unbecomingly and selects hats that make her look old. small toques because she has been told that these give height, whereas brim- hair high because it takes a little from the effect of dumpiness. Yet with a. hat that shaded her face with a little brim, and with hair arranged in a youthful manner, albeit low on her ears and forehead, her face wauid be far &r:mer than in the severe manner She wears | bo, line. variety. Let the woman who has for dresses indulge herself to the fullest for this is certainly her season. everything will be changed and th Well Groomed Person Attention to This Branch of Personal E x p en s e — Shoes, Suits and Coats Re- quire Added Amount for Keeping Them in Condition. S it a matter of practice as well as principle with you never to wear a pair of shoes that is worn over at the heels? Do you always take time to see that the seams of your stockings are pre- cisely straight and even at the back? Do you keep faithfully to the rule never to wear any bit of jewelry that does not harmonize with your costume in color and in typs? Do you always wear hats to match your coats, or else of ?u cTolorr deliber- ately chosen to harmon Do you always carefully brush your hat before putting it on or before putting it away in its dust-proof hat X2 1If you wear tail~-ed suits, do you see to it that they are pressed with the regularity with which most men send their suits to the tailor's for*p: ? If you have lingerie collars and cuffs in any of your dresses do you inspect them carefully, having them cleaned or washed 1f they show the slightest sign of grime? Do you inspect your dresses with an it seems consistent with her general effort to appear less broad. Fur-Lined Gloves For ?ru wear fleece-lined, fur- cuffed gloves are much in vogue. They are so cleverly fashioned that they are fnot bulky. The fieece linings, though warm, are soft and supple. The gloves but ‘they are held in at the wrists with a shirring—on. the pulse side. . During a performance of “Salimine” At the Paris Opera House a girl, be- eagle eye for spots and grimness—mak- ing a rule never to wear anything on the supposition that small spots will not be noticed? Do ybu adjust your hats even when they are no longer new with the same interested attention that you did when you wore them for the first time? Not long ago in a budget that won a prize in a contest for dress budgets there was a very substantial sum set aside for cl:aning and repair bills. And that is really the only sensible way to work things, out, if you would always bear that distinguishing look that we call well groomed. Wien you buy a new pair of shoes lleved to be an Italian, went from the sudience to the stage ing while the tenor singing, and began dmc-l was don’t put down the price as five dollars, or eight or ten or twelve as the case may be, but add from two to four dol- ‘Wh Must Give Special |} Elegance For Late Afternoon ‘With the return of longer skirts there is again the formal afternoon dress. Now one does not live in the sports type the morning, yes, but for late afternoon there are velvet, crepe or supple metal brocade. They usually have the uneven hem- As to colors, there is much black, but green and some of the softer shades of other colors are also worn. With the return of this sort of dressing there is more elegance, more femininity, more allure for the masculine eye. To many women this is a joy, that, look far better in more feminine clothes of clothes all day. In lovely svelte dresses of for there are certain types than they do in the sports the past few years been craving such extent of her 0 can tell- e formal imagination and purse, | Cleaning and Repair Budget lars for repairs. You will save money in the long run, and more than that you will look well in the meantime. ave the heels straight:ned as soon as they wear down with a rubber lift, and have the shoes soled when they wear thin, And k them clean and well polished. Possibly you can do this your- self, and so {0\! can cut down your repair and upkeep bill. The only cost will be a bottle or can of shoe polish. If you get expensive shoes, more money is worth while for their upkeep. Two soles are needed for some heavy walking shoes. They are really worth wearing through two new sets of soles. And of course that costs money. ‘When you buy a sult or coat, put by something for ‘cleaning and pressing. You needn't, of course, put aside the actual moncy, but put it aside men- tally, anyway. For a light chiffon frock, for instance, mentally reserve, and add to the original price, enough for at least two cleanings. Nothing is ;iowgler than a dirty light chiffon rock. You may be able, of course, to clean your own frocks. In that case the price for a few galions of gasoline is all you need reserve for them in addi- tion to the 1 price. And heat for the flat iron, of course, when you press them. Flow;_Fim Table Effective ‘Towering bouquets are out of place on the dinner table, and the hostess Wwho wants to put her guests at ease and assure general conversation takes pains to make the center decorations of her table as low as possible, so that there will be no barricade, no matter how lovely, to keep those at opposite sides of the table from seeing each other. Water lilles lend themselves excel- lently to flat arrangements and so do nasturtiums, pansies and old-fashioned Toses. When gladiolus and other tall fiswers are used they are sometimes laid fiat on the table and not arranged in vases at all, A clever thing to do is to keep the flowers in water until just before time for dinner. Then a ‘small piece of water-soaked cotton should be placed at the end of the flower stalk, which should be wound for several inches with tinfoll. When this is done the flowers ‘kneep It:uh q:flc h‘: well as if they welie water, and when arranged on a pol- ished table with lace Golics the efect charming. THE NORMAL W. S BRIDGE FROCK, WITH HIG) D SAME TRIMMING FORMS THE DEEP CUFFS. THE CIRCU- RIGHT: COARSE FI. 1929—PART THREE ON THIS BLACK CREPE FROCK. LI CENTER: AlS' HER WAISTLINE AND HIP NET MAKES A PRACTICAL ) CESS MOLDING 1S GS. Wash Sweaters in Lukewarm Water It is always a mistake to start washing sweaters or other woolly garments untilq the dust has first bzen removed as much possible by shaking or light beat- ing. A good plan is to have a light cane for this purpose—or a yardstick will do. Remember that wool should be washed in water that is not very hot, as extremes of temperature are harmful to wool. If the water is at all hard add a teaspocnful of ammonia or a little borax. If you use soap flakes, they should be dissolved in a few cupfuls of boiling water and then added to the lukewarm water. Whatever soap you use it should be dissolved and made into soa;:sud: and not rubbed directly on the wool. Sozzle th: sweater up and down but on no account rub it on a board, as this mats the wool and stretches it unevenly. It you have a washing machine you | eloth may find this the best method of wash- ing sweaters, provided of course that you use lukewarm soapy water, After the dirt has been well loosened and as much as possible taken out in the first water you will want to get as much as possible of the water out. Again if you have an electric washer, you can best proceed by using the electric wringer, only you should unscrew the rollers until they are far from tight. Have ready a rinsing water of luke- warm water slightly soapy. If your sweater is white you should put it through a sccond rinsing water, still soapy, the last one having a litt'e bluing in it. If you have no wringer then the woolen sweaters should be dried by patting them on a flat surface and pressing as much of the water out as possible. Do not hang them on a line, as this will pull them out of shape. Dry out- doors if possible, but not in the sun, choosing a brisk, dry day. A good plan is to place the garment on a clean towel in a protected, airy place. Chinese Beads Are Effective Gewgaws ‘The fad for wearing decorative beads of little intrinsic value is still with us and will be probably for a long time. We are naturally, most of us, bar- barians at heart, and the feel of los chains of gaudy beads seems to some outworn, primitive instinct of pleasure to our subconscious minds. At least, that may be the reason why beads are the most popular form of jewelry. Anyway, we are still going in for beads. One kind that we like is the Chinene wooden beads. They are not expensive, costing from perhaps 6 to 20 cents apiece. Nevertheless, when we get a long chain of them strung on a *knotted silk cord, the cost is not negli- gible. And the effect is very good. A cord of blue or purple or green or yellow or red may be used. The yellow- ish tone of the wooden beads and the brownish tone of some of them har- monize well with any of those colors and, moreover, the bright cord will go well with almost any frock. Many of these beads are mode in the form of little heads, and some are tiny, dumpy men, with arms and I folded into the bodies so that they do not take from the irregular contour of the bead. It is a good plan to end the head chain with one of these little ng::‘, and you can string the other either symmetrically or else in & hit-or- miss fashion, b} 11 THE CIRCULAR SKIRT DIPPING LINE MARKED BY A BELT, HIP YOKE, COWL NECK AND NOVEL SLEEVE ARRANGEMENT ALL PROVE THIS DARK BROWN CAN. ge and Dinner Have Become More Formal AT THE SIDES, NORMAL WAIST. ! TON CREPE GOWN TO BE A 1930 VERSION OF THE FORMAL AFTERNOON COSTUME. THE NECKLACE OF OLD AMBER BEADS, BROWNISH BEIGE STOCKINGS AND BROWN STRAP PUMPS CARRY OUT THE COLOR SCHEME. Gay Clothes Are Most Appropriate for. Holiday Festivities — Combination Afters noon and Evening Dress Wise Choice for Christmas Party—Black Dress May Be Set Off by Glittering Rhinestone or Crystal Ornaments—Long Skirts to Remain Winter Season. BY MARY MARSHALL OMETHING old and something new; something borrowed—if you have an indulgent sister or chum; and surely ‘something showing the red or green of holly. That is what yow will doubtless wear at the various festivities on your ddte bock from now until after New Year. Let us hop: that the world is so rull of good cheer and generosity at this time of the year that no one may be made to feel self-conscious or downhearted’ for the lack of appro- priate party clothes. At _this season of the year when in old English manor houses and castles cook danced with master and mistress danced with the gardener and the bui- ler, the necessity of wearing old clothes should keep no one away from parties. ‘The fact remains that gay clothes make gay hearts and the most effective sort of decoration that we can have for any party is the decoration of attractive es. You may not want to deck yourself in red and green like a Christmas store window, but you should at least see that your costumes do not swear at the pre- vailing color scheme of the season, nor should you fade into insignificance i & dress of too subdued tone. * k% % black dress, if set off by glittering rhinestone or crystal ornaments, is not out of harmony. White is sugges- tive of gleaming snow that is part of the traditional picture. Almost any shade of green is appropriate and, of course, any clear tone of red. Metallic fabrics of gold, silver or bronze tone add to the brilllance, and for the younger members of the family there are clear, light pastel tones. It is the ted, in-between tones that seem to e mdfi!}:cordnnt note huh room;; e evergreen, holly an mistlef toe. For the formal evenlng party in tne holiday week we have chosen—by way of suggestion—a red velvet evening dress with full, long skirt, a draped dress of bright’ green satin, a pictur- esque dress with whits tulle skirt and silver lame bodice and a black taffeta made with short puffed sleeves and a ruffie on the skirt that suggests the fashions of the 1880's. * x X % LONO skirts are and will remain for the Winter the smart thing for formal evening wear. If—as has been firedlcted—charwr skirts will come a ttle later there is at least this con- solation, that it is a much simpler matter to shorten a long skirt than to lengthen a short one. 'Some women still hold out against the really long skirt and for them there are draped skirts that hang to the ankles at the back, extending only a few inches be- low knees at the front. Especilally useful at this time of the year are those dresses which may be worn appropriately for late afternoon | parties, for dinner and throughout the evening for all but the most formal parties. The newest of these dresses show ugunhnn sleeves—Ilittle puffs or :‘tnl dru that cover the curve of the oulders. For the formal afternoon party you may wear a dress of this sort with gloves drawn up to the elbow. Black gloves are worn with black dresses, while those of flesh or a very light ecru are ehm‘ :o‘wm‘ with colors. KIRTS of these formal afternoon for the has been retained for afternoon whild it is less favored for eévening. There are, however, wearable afternoon dresses with even hemlines placed mid be- tween knees and ankles. -Skirts of this sv;rt are ideal for the less formal sort of dancing. At least one dress o‘: 'i)]zlz ’mr,-‘um may be worn appropr! y from 4 on through the evening — should ine cluded in every woman's wardrobe. Another useful sort of afternoon cose tume is the one that may be put on before luncheon, appropriately worn ab luncheon and then kept on for teas or bridge. If your day's schedule ine cludes & luncheon followed by bm a tea then you should wear a f this sort. If, on the other hand, our tea or bridge engagement i3 fol lowed by dinner out, then the more formal type of ensemble is the best choice. (Copyright. 1929.) Dougl_muts May Be Made Very Useful Sometimes on these Winter mornings, do you get up with the feeling that you'd like to do some cooking? Make somes thing good just because it's so stormy’ and completely nasty outside? Next time you feel that way, make & batch of doughnuts. Here is a ndp.l for mighty good doughnuts and ones that keep fresh a few days if they aren't all eaten up before the few days are up: Two cups mashed potatoes, two cups sugar, one cup milk, three eggs beaten scparately, one-quarter teaspoon salt, one-quarter teaspoon nutmeg, three tablespoons melted butter, five teaspoons . baking powder, approximately four and one-half cups of flour. Now you won't like that “approxie mately,” perhaps, but flours differ & good deal and the difference is %‘;‘h noticeable when mixing doughnuts. You will want enough flour to make a dough that is stiff enough to roll, but not so stiff that the doughnuts are heavy, The best thing to do is to roll qut & wee F?}l'ei:e an: cut ljxu‘s: t.u lg‘ul’l b:tr!';;m it. it and see ust thterl;n fry a tasty cake and be sure o‘? yourself. Be sure that there are no lumps the potatoes, Better put them the ricer. Add the sugar to the hot po- tatoes, then the beaten egg yolks. Sift the salt, nutmeg, baking powder m about four cups of flour together add it alternately with the milk, Add the stiffly beaten egg white. Add more flour if necessary. Roll to about one-half inch thickness and eut with doughnut cutter. These make nice doughnuts for afternoon tea if they are cut very small. Tea doughnuts are :{\; same as the breakfast variety Now that recipte makes about four tol five dozen, acco! to size. But m may cut it down to one-i amounts, or two-thirds very easily, Hearty Pea Soup. Wash and soak one pint of dried peas over night in water. Cut in pleces one carrot, one turnip and onfon. Into & Kettle put Deas, ham bone, and four quarts of cold wa« ter. Bring to a boll, then add m vegetables, Cook until the vegel dresses may be uneven. The fact is that in PFrance the uneven hemline are tender. Cut off any pleces of hamj from the bone and serve wlth& Season well and serve very X a