Evening Star Newspaper, September 15, 1929, Page 67

Maria Gay Offers Black With Brown in Notable Example of Latest Type in Hats—Paris Reports Show Present Ten- ‘dencies Abroad, Indicate Matching and Dresses. BY HELEN DRYDEN. ODAY you can't buy just a hat. For today the ensemble is su- preme. And the hat is just a factor therein that can't be se- T lected without consideration of L- 'mble. e degree of formality or informal- of the ensemble must be consid- d first, for it determines the type of hat. A velvet turban and suede mps are an excellent . selection if ey are to be worn with an afternoon pbstume, but they should not be substi- ted for low-heeled oxfords and felt ret when a sports or street suit is orn. Once you have decided on the type | vour hat, the problem of color arises. he hat may harmonize or blend with e dominant color note, or it may atch the shoes, bag and furs. ‘Whether the new lines, the some- hat uncompromising off-1 face flare for even the hats with brims reveal uch of the forehead and all of the rebrows—and the out - of - the - side idth are becoming, is of secondary pnsideration, For deft fingers can inch in brims and adjust the sculp- ral drapings until they defy the years Ind accent the best features. Hats, day, are so flexible, made so often hout linings and mounted on bands hich can be made to conform to the pntour of the face, that they may be lightfully individualized. P "HE beret, istpeaie -the-eyebrow line. banishing the softening effect f the hair, requires ingenious manipu- tion to meke it flattering to any ex- pt the young and pigquant and those ho carry a baby face through the ‘True. the angle at which it is —and this may be rakish because f the nonchalant type of the hat— oes help to make it more wearable. Agnes_was the first to introduce erets. This season she is interpreting jhem in tw strips crocheted to- ether. Others are made of felt—one { the simplest being of black with atin ribbon encircling the bandeau and atching up the brim over one eye. pometimes the felt is stitched to look ike tweed or embroidered in wool. ere are also jersey berets. Chanel akes them to complete jersey suits. PPith them for sports and the street, atching scarfs are worn. Tweed shoes nd bag may he wom with matching jweed beret. 'As type hats, demanding a eertain bersonality to carry them off. we may lassify tricornes and bonnets with perets. The felt tricornes which are ade on rather irregular lines must be orn with a certain dash. The bon- ets made of ting or satin ribbon. | nd fitted close to the head, are some- imes softened by a V cut just over [he left eyebrow. A bow placed at the ape of the neck gives becoming width. | Since we have been deprived of the attering effect of a brim across the | ront of our hats, the designers have ecognized the need for much brim at he sides or other devices. such as " and outstanding loops, to give Probably the greatest of all changes hat fashions his, season is seen in he crown. It Has become very shal- pw in the front and deep in the back, that it gives an on-the-back-of-the- ead effect. The treatment of the back of the at depends on the collar of the coat jth which it i to be worn. If the ollar is built to stand out, the back f the hat will continue to show the lape effect. With a fur collar that ows a tendency to hug the neck one | ould wear a hat shortened and fitted | s snugly to the neck as it is to the rehe: Milliners have taken advantage of | e return of the feminine and formal | clothes. They have succeeded in | ringing back the more formal sort of | t which is usually of velvet, including . nne, or of soleil. R 'HE most formal hat is turban made entirely of velvet. When it is ombired with felt or soleil, it loses bme of its formality. That the fabric, ther than the type, determines the gree of formality is shown by Suzy's ret. developed in turquoise velvet. atou’s beret. although of tan felt. is jven formality by a veil over the eyes. | In bringing back the trimmed hat | e designers have wisely shown much‘ testraint. Many hats depend on their | and| other factors which make up the | 1 haping for their chic. Others feature combination of two fabrics or con- | rast the reversible surfaces of solell | r vis-a-vis, Still others are entirely | ade of panne velvet, satin or belting ibbon. - Again a two-color combination bt ribbon serves as trimming. | The hand touch is emphumd in ts as well as dresses. Shirrings just | s close as it is possible to make them brims, while clusters of shir- ings afe used to draw the brims ciose the head, to fit the hats at the ck, “or to indent them at various boints and thus break the too severe ine. Inverted seams, done by ofer- | asting, are also effective. A few feath- br fancies and quills are used to strike | color note. Monnier .has numerous clever ideas insets of contrasting materials, bspecially of flat fur, She invariably hooses galyak because it is the least furry in appearance and, therefore, n't have to match the furs of the Fast. On a beige felt hat the fabric cut out in the shape of butterflies the openings filled with matching l ak. Panne velvet is used in the | e WAY. & & k X | ()N some of the aressy hats there are inner brims that hug the heeks like the lace caps under the | \lde hats of the eighteenth centvry . be gray, black or beige geluchnnu or hru;m eolored vei- et—orange, turquoise o |As the aajority of ‘the Fall sults and ts are brown, brown hats are im- bortant for Autumn. Various shades bt beige and tan to match the furs Il also be favored. The browns nave ired or russet tinge, although browns h the purple cast are becoming | * arter, Many red bats are keyed to ke red note ln the tweeds, with wluc}: re nud:;d is u;e mmt. color, bown tan for Black is ‘always good. Green hats srmonize with tweeds and also with eh hunter’s and bottle gresns of silk wool ensembles. The bright tones velvm, such as the lum and shades used by Reboux, are mart lar the afternoon hat. * ik Kk ‘Afll the new hats becoming?” is a | face. quuunn we naturally ask on see- ng those with the brims turned abruptly b kmu&umnmum kind. We have so long hidden h cloche that to present a strikes us as & bit star- TRIMMED WITH DARK BROWN VELVET. TOP. LEFT—BROWN FELT HAT WITH BAND AND FACING OF BLACK FELT AND BUCKLE TOP, RIGHT—RED FELT HAT TRIMMED WITH DEEPER RED RIBBON. M?THER-O‘F-PEARL BUCKLE. BOTTOVI RIGHT— MUI, HAT OF DARI\ BROW‘J l AT FRONT. T. SECOND DOWN, LEFT—BLACK FELT WITH FEATHER BRUSH. BOTTOM, LEFT—ALMOND GREEN FELT TRIMMED WITH SIMULATED QUILLS IN TONES OF BROWN, RED AND DARK GREEN. TOP, CENTER--DEEP BEIGE HAT OF A NEW THIN FELT CALLED PEAU DE VACHE. SECOND, CENTER—BLACK FELT HAT WITH ORNAMENT AT FRONT. THIRD, CENTER—BEIGE FELT TRIMMED WITH BEIGE AND BROWN RIBBON. SECOND DOWN, RIGHT--GREEN FELT WITH HALFINCH BAND OF THE SAME FELT. THIRD DOWN, RI(,HT-BLACK FELT WITH THIRD DOWN, LEFT—BEIGE FELT | these new hats are essential to | may not need to All the Various Types Which Are - Popular. May Be Classed as Bonnets. Many Ways in Which They May Be Made Individually - Becoming. BY MARY MARSHALL. HETHER you spend $5 & sea- one thing is certain, and that is that you eannot wear s last season’s hat and hope to look up-to- jdate. Scme. one has said that one might as well wear a hat 10 years out of date as last year's hat—so great are the changes that have taken place within six months in millinery fashions. That is a slight exaggeration, of course, | but the- fact is that even hats that we | bought last Spring or in Midsummer | begin to look a trifie old-fashioned. Not only are the nmew hats different, but the way of wearing them is dif- ferent. The woman who does not make a clean break with the past as far as hats are concerned will have a hard time of it this season. In reviewing the new hats we speak of toques, berets, turbans and even of cloches, but essentially all new hats are bonnets—in that they are soft and light and are worn with shallow, close- ly drawn erown brought down on the back of the hesd. To attempt io wear one of the new hats drawn down over the forehead would be as disastrous as trying to wesr one of the new draped dresses up to the knees or one of the ‘lr;;w princess dresses with a low waist- e. ‘The important thing is to realize that amart- ness and then to get a visual impres. sion through sketches and actuslly see- ing the displays in the millinery All the important Prench ‘milliners have added interesting variations of the new mode, and when they make hats for individua’ women they vary - them in a hundred different ways to make them individually The hats offered in this wunlrv are copies or modifications of these French creations and ‘never before has there been such a wide variety. If you choose to buy your hat ready-made, your prob- lem is to find a shape that is most be- coming. Some of the milliners take the partly formed shipes of velvet or felt and mold them to your individual head —a simpler process than having the hat cut and shaped entirely to measure. | Even if you buy your hat all finished there aré ways of pinching it and drap- ing it a little here and there so as to make it individually becoming. Let me suggest to the olaer woman that” she is really making » mistake when_she =hows too great conservatism this season in selecting her new hats. She may think that the new hats are suitable only to younger women—yet she may adopt with willingness the new, more closely molded Il’e‘_ with higher waistline and longer skirt. As a matter of fact, the new hats show s becoming and’appropriate possibili- ties to the eonservative older woman as they do to vounger women, and new more feminine dresses most cer- tainly demand the new, more feminine type of hat. - The time when a simple. felt eloche might be worn with every and any sort of costume has paseed, Infl mnun- e spend one hat, we will doubtiess "Teer the need of more hats. For sports clothes nothing is more appropriate than one of the new berets. lwl’:u'h are also appropriate with tweed | suits, | sometimes shirred around the hrim teo ‘There are simple felt dupu give them the desired close adjustment that may also be worn with suits, nnd | for formal afternoon there are hats ef solell or soleil and velvet with upturned brims on one side and downward Spite Should . Have N Place in Parents’ Atti- tude Toward Mistakes of Children Due to En- thusiasm. BY OLIVE ROBERTS BARTON. “I'm not taking the car to work to- dly. gl';‘c I'll go out to the shop with er.” 1 rt'hl ‘Get, r mother to give you som nickel polhh and wipe out the 1nlM¢. Looks like a nice day tomorrow. No school, en?” 'l wash it.” deep in the bagk, may be adjusted to fit the shape of the head by tiny in- verted tucks in clusters at front, sides or back. The shallow front brim bri with it the long back brim; and.wi this is in some eases shortened o0 as not to interfere with the coat collar it must_cover the hair line and balance the front brim in the framing of the Anholuh veils have been worn ex- undvelrh Paris, it is doubtful fl they Afl m of ingenious tricks are re- b R et successful are the m: o wiot of thems tme| o necessary is the wi of these sides that many turbans have brims; bul they are so closely turned up in front cuff that they give what is' known as the turban line. This has called forth the statement that all hlu are mhm- of the turban, and there is & turban for practically mvy ‘There are side flares, bow trims, feather fancies such as pads, quills, brushes, the soft folds, all nddmc width at one or both sides, toward the front quire, " the cloches have this the brim. crown, shallow in the front and mmlththgnluk.nllm ppearance of the hat specially fif lothal.lfllvlflull‘ e | the day. or at the back, as your face may re- | kne Justice in Punishment ‘‘Nope, never is Thursday of Fair week."” Dave's father lit a cigarette and crossed the street to his neighbor's | house. - And Dave went back and fin- ! ished his breakfast, then went to school. ‘Wednesday of Fair week in Septem- ber was as exciting as the day the cir- | cus came in in May. Every boy knew what scenes the rallroad station at the end of Main street was presenting. The fair and carnival men were busy unloading ou Who could study? At noon every kid in the school in- cluding Dave ran to the station to catch a glimpse of any possible linger- ing thrill Dave stayed and didn't go home to lunch. After school he lnd tha boys it off lickety split to the hill. They could hang ’round and peep through me fence even if they couldn't go in. morrow was their day. All the fun- illes went then, with lunch and supper baskets, in clean washed cars to spend School closed, shops: closed, stores closed, everything closed but the fair. Thundly ‘was race day. All the fast horses in six surrounding counties came to race. Dave got in at 6 and met his father at the door. The car still stood there in the little side alley with its face to the wall, , like & child with | e b e areat y's heart gave a Jump— umn san| He'd forgotten all -bmlt On_his father’s sheer t.. Dave could see it -na knew he'd pay up some way. He hoped it would only be a licking. His fatheér turned on the light in the garage and worked all evening. He { wouldn't allow Dave to help and when he passed Dave's dark room on his way to bed he 3 < “You stay ‘tomorrow. leave you in charge arge of the house, ms'iayh-nm-mmn got nhhmnh things that would make your eyes pop |° ‘We'll | The young | fabric Must Be Chic and Becommg HATS continue to be small, either wiih narrow brims or with none at all. The brimless hats . have the off-the-forehead line and are long on one or both sides. These are extremely smart and youthful, but a trifie hard to wear. For a woman who is not really young the hat with . @ narrow brim will be far more flattering. A well made hat that fits the head and is correct with the rest of the costume is a really good investment. Proportionately one may well spend more on one’s hat than on anything else one wears and yet not feel guilty of extravagance, for the reason that it is the first thing to be noticed, and if it is a good hat it will help to set off the whole costumte. A woman feels much more confident of herself if she knows her hat is chic and becoming. She realizes she is &t her best, and what woman is there today who will not strive to accomplish that? HELEN DRYDEN. best things would start to leave. It was sort of like the Fair's funeral. Nobody went then. Besides therz was school. Dave lay tossing and miserable all night. He didn’t sleep a wink. The. family left him just as his father had said they would. Some white and hot kept searing his heart all day. Hate for his unjust parent. He was young but-he knew that the punishment he received 'was far too cruel for his crime. Parents should make allowance for the uncontrollable - impulses and ab- sorbing interests of youth that leud them to forget sometimes. Punishment should be kept within reason. Becoming Color . Selected For Hat| Some women base the color scheme of their wardrobes on the hats they choose for the season, while others buy hats to meet the color requirements of dresses and coats. Either method is satisfactory. It is the woman who buys dresses and hats without thinking of their ocolor nlm who is likely to come to grief. Mustard color, tete de negre, English green, turtle green, rust color, Spanish red, black and rust, black and green— these are colors that you may. see 'in the smartest of the new models are at their in black. Many well dressed women _this season—who cannot afford than two hats to start vllth—llll select a ‘practical shade of brown wear with brown tweed suit or cout and a more formal black hat whlgh has the. virtue of combining with almost any There are new tweeds that show a mixture of blue and gray, brown and green or brown and russet color, and Lingerie Laundering Almost every woman who doesn't keep a personal mlld ‘washes her own dltnflflt of Jingerie and often washes silk erepe or g tte dresses and blouses instead of sen: them to the cleaners, Beauty School Insists on This as the Woman’s| First Step in Learning How to Give Proper Care. Beauty schools of the type that trains professional beauticians emphasize & knowledge of the structure of the hair |.as a first step in teaching how to cave | for 1t properly. The hair is composed of two por- tions, the shaft and. the raot. The shaft extends beyond the sur- face of the epidermis and the root is below the surface of the skin. ‘The hair. shaft consists of several layers of cells, each one being well-de- fined and having & purpose. There are the inner la] which con- tain the pigment and natural col- oring matter. Destroy these and gray or white hair results. The outside of the hair has cells corresponding to a shingled roof that overlap each other, and lke the fin- ger nalls contain a hotny substance that gives them strength and elasticity. Oil glands are an important part of the scalp just as they are of the rest of the body. - If th:se do mot function properly the hair is enher too olly or is why you learn the same con who dem and scalp. "Advising sunshine does not mean And the girl Study Structure of Hair are two kinds, those with the bristles set in bunches and those with nxu’ bristles, and your thoughtful hair- dresser uses the aingle bristled one | with open back because it is easily cleaned, The brush selected for tender mlm has soft bristles although hard bristl for healthy hair and scalp are very beneficlal for brushing and keeping the hair clean. Brush the hair well daily, ‘beginning at the hairline on the forehead. Take one lmrd of hair In‘: a tilm and hnnh it from its beginnl ing the scalp at the start. By mrnln the brush mduully over the hair f.hn oil is distributed. Comb the hair lflcl‘ brushing to remove snarls be, at the bottom of a strand of Massage the hud with Totary movement, working from the umpn toward the crown and then down to \eurtain fashion, at the | felt. draperv on the other. well o3 the more demure honnet s (€opyright. 1 Maria Guy 7Sbo‘nsors Black With Brown PARIS. France.—Nicole Grouit shows hats with her costumes, a navy-blue ‘moln beret matching a dress of that silk. Patou emphasizes the wearable types, mostly in plain felts with an occasional hat of velvet or a togue ef black salin. Off-the-face shapes and dahlia colorings predominate. Meria Guy combines brown black, notable in a turben of hllek felt draped with brown galyak. Marcelle Lely favors vis-a-vis. the ' two-surface fabric showing a Justrous soleil face and the dull felt reverse. ‘The front brim is rolled back on the | crown and tucked to break the line. and the sides are longer and )olmd Many hats turn their hacks to shew their trimmings. Reboux ties & b folt bow across the ‘back of a red fi hat. Mado takes red and yel;low bcnl- ¢ 0 3 ing vibbon, fringes it, and . . back of xhnk Agnes places a soft satin resstie the back of a cafe creme soleil ID. with upturned front brim. Reboux also has a formal beret of tan velvet, dr jped low on one side while er three yellow carnations “ h‘;(h on c:e orown. o enny and Agnes hats alone or combined with felt. vivid tones of velvet, such as mandarin - red, American beauty, turquoise blue and capucine, are featured. Marle Christiane achieves a !Amrr- ing line by lengtheni the sides of a mapila brown felt with soft drapes. adding s chou of velvet in the same shade over the left ear. Germaine r.gmfi:dxu inverted tuckings in the ' upt mmor-m;erenum softness around the face, LWhy Not Have a : Company Night? A young housewife who Ilikes to systematize things and likes also to do the base ot the skull. !Ju only the balls of the fingers which should be hznmmmnmmmt . A sigsag or ahuttle done In the same direction s u'l\‘ll h one els> than of the nnnu nptmmmummum erown, neplu the fingers about an lneh r fitting hats, beautfelans agree. c-uu = great many hair ills, If you wear a hat during the day, or during a congiderable part of it, the crown should be well ventilated. ‘Too-tight hats and unmassaged short hsir will beget a race of bald-headed women if they don't watch out, heauty experts’ warn. Men's troubles lhn. to cutting their hair short and wi ing snug-ftting hats. Cheap Dlsh Towel. If you need a very cheap dish towel to be used & few times and do not wish to spend enough for linem, (¢ is better to get & piece of cotton cheese- cloth. This is absorptive, and because it is “gives up the-dirt ' usefuln hed quickly and ir | this line began only after they teok her share of entertaining has hit upon the scheme of - having one .ug » week that she calls ht.” On that night she is always NI to: receive dinner guests. She arranges her work lo that she will always be free then to prepsre s dinner with just & few more fiourishes Likewise she has her pai m.ut .""3‘.2" muh i ny " 18 ev of gen cleaning day. a certain good woman {in every “company night” to wuh the ishes. " 1 there s mo com; .t“ the nousewife's tasms ua’:tlfin l ) the usually maEw guests for dinner s wial | to thcse who have:no servanis, And lh-no:t1 always there certain | Without nm consulting his knows she welcomes company, as wen as her own, on mmthhnum which always making '.hn m t:o tlu coffee, or in