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ARG il BOTH THE PRINTED CHIFFON AND THE DRAWN-WORKED BEIGE CREPE DE CHINE PICTURED ABOVE SHOW THE MOLDED THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C., JUNE 30, 1929—PART 3. Dresses of Decided Princess Outllne Gaining Fashion’s Favor SILHOUETTE WITH NORMAL WAISTLINE. BY MARY MARSHALL. OMEN who had looked for- § ward to a return of the more B rounded silhouette as a time when they would at last have P an advantage over the wom- en of slender proportions have found less reason for rejoicing than they ex- pected. Because, as it happens, the “ mew type of molded silhouette demands ‘slender contours as well as a curve or two. In any group of representative, ‘well dressed women you will find that those who are slender are wearing the more closely molded gowns and the raised waistline, while those that are not wisely realize that straight lines and longer bodice effects are much mmore favorable to their type. . _Of all new fashion tendenci - the one that is spoken of with most confidence is that of the raised waistline and the ,more molded silhouette. The question of skirt lengths is one that has not been so0 definitely settled., The new dresses ‘seen in Paris at present show longer _jskirts, but at the same time there is & 4 reaction on the part, of some women ‘against the very long evening dress. The uneven hemline with a skirt that mhnn mlm th: hflk.dur at one nd; ‘has _ce) ly nof ined any groun - among street or dly?lfl‘l! dresses. There are new dresses of a decided cess outline, with bodice well fitted rom shoulder to a low hipline. Some- times the molded outline extends well down to the knees. A charming new French dress shows | is & full circular skirt with the fullness fllflningrsdullly from just below the waistline to a hemline 5 or 6 inches below the knees. Over this is worn a bodice made with rounded neckline and a peplum rounded upward at either side like a little jacket. There are | three ribbonlike bands of the materiel —one circling the normal waistline, another passing around the bust, and konz between. Each is finished with a Your Baby and Mine BY MYRTLE MEYER ELDRED, * It is quite enough to have to bear the ¢Arritation of extreme heat. If, in addi- tion, one shoulders the work of keeping & large house and several children clean ‘and provide them with meals and s amusements, one can be forgiven for “being short-tempered. { Adults feel let down and ambition- jleu, and just to be civil is & burden, fumuch less active and amusing. We un- ‘flerlnnd those emotions in ourselves, “but we become annoyed and aggravated £ when children, for no reason at.all, “burst into gusty sobs and refuse to be “.comforted, or brother whines and baby oArets, and we say petulantly: “I don't Y why you can't try to be good and ¢hel~ poor mother when it is so hot.” ‘What we should know is that heat is £no respezter of age, and the children Jare just as miserable and uncomfort- sable ‘and irritable as the adults, with- ¢out ability to relieve themselves except Dy _crying. “_ Bometimes on a hot day an accumu- lation of these anno-ances will drive a gwther to the breaking point. She 4blows up, smacks the poor, hot chil- dren, slaps baby's hand and barks at them all the world like a cross dog snapping at flies. ‘This is the time to take one's self Airmly in hand. Sit down. View t'e . distorted universe and deafen one’s ears 1o the children’s wails. Other days are coming—days that will be cool enough to prevent work and crying and heat from snarling dispositions into knots. Nothing has to be done except to try 10 keep cool. Undress the fretting baby and sponge him with cool water until his temperature is lowered and his tem- per smoothed out. Put a large tub of ‘water on the lawn cr in the 'ment and let the children frolic in it until they have forgotten their irritability. Lie down for 15 minutes until your own back stops screaming. Realize how perfectly senseless it is to hate the heat, and spank tired, hot children. If we can't have a day that suits us, .make ourselves suit the day. Be lazy. Allowing one's self to become frenzied because the temperature won't drop adds several degrees to our own tem- rerlmres. Getting all “het up” is more han a slang phrase. Houses need not look like tombs full of sheeted forms just because it is hot ‘weather, but living should be mate- rially simplified. Everv object which mirht cause useless work should be discarded. Curtains should come down. “They or'* grow dirty and limp and Jeeep out the breezes. Heavy mohair and welour furniture should be shrouded ‘with cool ll:fl-eoun. s0 one doesn’t stTer in the sticky and itchy em- brace. Every ornament, every extra piece of furniture should be put in the ‘attic for the Summer. Bare spaces are soothing. Bare floors are cooler, and even the 5-year-old will adore using the . dust mop on them. With no orna- ments to lure baby's clutching hands. ‘one more cause for irritation will be expelled. Bright covers and empty will make the housc seem novel bow precisely in the middle of the front. ‘The evening silhouette that is smart- est_at present in Paris is described as molding the figure almost to the knees, and there breaking out into flares or flounces or drapery. For warm-weather wear gowns of this sort made from printed georgette or chiffon, with un- even drapery of a slinky sort, are con- sidered decidedly smart. imagined that the break away from the straight line silhouette would detract from the slenderness of the silhouette have but to see one of these wispy little evening gowns as worn by a graceful French mannequin. A type of street dress which, accord- ing to all recent dispatches from Paris. has gained favor much more rapidly on that side of the Atlantic consists of a rather close-fitting, hip-length tunic, worn with a wide belt, placed ever so slightly below the normal waistline. The effect is that of the Russian blouse. Sometimes the peplum of the basque is made so that it flares a trifle, though this, I understand, is becoming only to the very slender. The belt usually is a good 3 inches wide, has a large buckle of metal or covered with leather, and is fastened at the front, side, or even at the back. The end, usually showing two or three punch holes, is left to hang down a trifle beside the buckle. T e belt is fastened so that the bodice above it may be drawn up in a slight blouse. ‘Tunies of this sort are sometimes drawn on over the head, sometimes there is an opening part way down the side of the front, and sometimes there an opening right down the front. Quite. often the side slit or front open- ing is provided with patent slide fas- tenings, so that the effect of the tunic when worn is very flat and smooth. A tunic of this sort, worn with a scarf arranged bib fashion at the front and tied or knotted at the back, and slip-on gloves worn with cuffs drawn over the wrists of the closely fitting sleeves, gives an effect of tremendous smartness. (Copyright, 1929 some certain sort of vegetable, Food Tastes Begin In Our Childhood Did it ever occur to you that one of the most important bits of education that a mother has to assume in con- nection with her children is the train- Those Who |40 of their taste in food? This is quite as important as train- ing them to speak with something like correctness. In fact, a little neglect in the latter may be mended by close at- tention, but the badly trained appetite is something that often clings to a man or woman through life. So 1t is really up to you. ‘The fact that you must impress upon yourself from the start is that to a great, degree likes and dislikes in food are a matter of ining. There are exceptions to this rule that it is well to bear in mind. For instance, a child may show some marked dislike for Now if you make up your mind to make the child eat this vegetable in spite of a natural dislike you may prejudice him against vegetables entirely. In training a child to like vegetables, which is one of the most important matters in train- ing the appetite, make the most of vegetables that a child really likes. Most children like asparagus, fresh or canned. Fresh green peas are general favorites and most young children like carrots. Spinach seems to be one of the wholesome vegetables that many children dislike. Flavor Garden On Window Sill Did you ever try the experiment of having a large flower pot or window box containing parsley, mint, pepper- grass and other greens that add flavor to meats, soups and other dishes? Such a miniature kitchen garden need not be at all unattractive. You may even grow these things in_your living room or in a sunshiny window in your dining room. If the tiny garden is planted in a neat flower pot set in a jardinere or in a tidy window box, the herbs and flavoring o Y o527, % : THE PRINC| GETTE SILHOUETTE 1S REVEALED IN A BEIGE GEOR- AFTERNOON FROCK TRIMMED WITH BROWN LACE SHOWN AT THE LEFT. THE MOLDED FROCK OF BLACK CHIFFON HAS FLESH COLORED SHOULDER STRAPS, WHILE THE SASH MARKS THE NORMAL WAISTLINE ON THE FROCK OF THE CO] SPOTTED CHIFFON. AT THE RIGHT 1S SHOWN A FROCK OF BLACK SATI FOLLOWING THE PRINCESS LINE, WITH FULL- NESS GATHERED AT THE BACK. Odd Sunroom Cushions Sunroom incidentals need not be ex- | Sew one to each corner of your cush- pensive to be attractive. Certain things can be achieved as successfully by the clever woman with a needle as can be purchased in the most modish shops. Cushions, for instance. The newer types of these are riots of color—sunsets with rainbows running through them. There are types that are new and are being sold in New York for $15 to $25 each. You can easily duplicate them for much less than half these sums, depending, of course, on the kind of material you use. If your scrap bag ylelds nothing in the way of a bright bit of cretonne, scour the shops for the most brilliantly colored hue money can buy. There is no danger of getting it too “loud.” Bring your choice home and make it into an ordinary sofa cushion about 215 feet long and 18 inches wide, using no cord, ruffle, boxing or other finish on the edge, but simply making it as plain as possible, Now get four strings of big fon, and there you are! Another odd cushion is made of bright cretonne in exactly the same way as the first one, except that, instead of beads, you will need yards and yards of woolen fringe not over an inch wide. On the cushion we have mentioned this was a soft sage green. Seven inches from either end of the cushion begin to band it with the fringe, the rows running the short way of the cushion and so close together that no material is visible between them. Of course, it is held in place only by stitches on its foundation side, the fringe itself falling loose, but as it is so short there is little danger of its getting seriously out of place. Do not put the fringe on in a spiral, by the way. To get the right effect each strip must be cut separately. It is hard to give dimehsions for these cylindrical cushions, as their length de- pends upon the width of seat or ham- mock. They must, of course, be thick in proportion to their-length. of preventing them is impossible to the tired mother. She can't expect con- sideration from hot children, so she must plan and think out ways of sav- ing: herself work. Life can be pleasant and easy in the Summer, a time when one can thoroughly enjoy rocking on the lawn or being completely and thor- oughly idle, if one makes an effort to have it so. A certain amount of work is a neces- sary evil, but work can be shared with the children, who will be less over- heated scrubbing the porch with hose | and broom and infinitely better enter- tained than if they are engaged in an aimless running the streets. Pager napkins, paper tablecloths— yes, even paper plates and cups—are work savers of which a mother should be guilty in Summertime. The mother who conscientiously runs her home as she did in the Wintertime and then re- lieves her overwrought nerves by screaming shrilly at her (™ildren tnd feeling that they are naughty little pests intent on annoying her needs to pull herself up and realize that patience and a sweet disposition are often gained at the expense of the household ma- chinery. In the Summer we can let it get rusty with a clear conscience, Chintz Frame For Picture A new trick is this: In a chintz-decorated room have plain walls decorated in gray, tan, light blue or green, which is again in vogue in_interiors, Have no pictures, of the conventional sort, on the walls. But instead cut from the chintz, of the large-patterned sort, several panels, of different sizes and shapes, each containing one big motif, and have these framed. In this way, one might contain a big bird. another might contain one group of flowers, a third a second groun of flowers and a fourth perhaps some fruit. ‘These four panels would be hung on the four walls of the room. Of course, two could be made alike, if you wanted more panels, or did not have four separate designs in the cre- tonne. These make really very effec- tive wall decorations and are something new and interesting. i AR Lingerie Touch Adds to Dress ‘The touch of lingerie at neck and wrists which is stressed so often in the new dresses produced in Paris is fre- qut.l{l colored. There really is no rea- son why it should be white or ecru, beige, cream colored or gray. On a printed dress showing black, beige and lime green, the lingerie touches were of lime green. A very rosy beige is sometimes used—and is most attractive with black, while two new shades of blue, known as duck-eggs and verdegris, 4 the added fumistings in ‘:‘h.e Fall S +and lgnote the chil- «dren's wi or think up helpful ways are frequently used for the lingerie collar and cuffs or jabot, of chiffon, mge“t‘te. embroidered lawm, organdie greens may be as attractive to the eye as ivy, inch-plant or other greens grown only for appearance. black wooden beads and loop each one into a sort of rough tassel, the irregular loops hanging not more than 6 inches. ‘The end pieces are as long as the circumference of the cushion and are | of date and as sadly in need of reno- shirred into & big bead in the middle. ' A D o Separate Belts Mark Tuck-In Costume To add to the list of accessories al- ready familiar to every woman there are stparate belts to be worn with the new generally accepted tuck-in blouse. The vary narrow belt we have had with us for several seasons to be worn to define a lower waistline with one- plece dresses, overblouses, jumpers and sweaters. Sometimes these narrow belts are worn with the tuck-in blouse, being arranged so that the skirt belt shows above the belt; and sometimes they are held from slipping by means of narrow straps of the material of the skirt placed at either side. But it is the wider belt—from.two to five inches in width—that is the real | novelty and this is chosen by many women for the tuck-in blouse because it produces a defined walstline and be- | cause it has a desirable air of smart- ness and newness about it that makes it extremely attractive. These belts usu- ally have metal buckles or buckles covered with leather to match the belt. Fashion in Dress Not Everything ‘We are prone to think of fashion as having to do merely with matters of dress, and the word “style” suggests to most of use the mode of dress, hats, shoes, stockings, jewelry or hair ar- rangement. But there are women whose style of speech sets at naught the good style of their dress, and whose ges- tures and carriage discount the pains- taking attention they have given to the fashion of their clothes. It is possible to be well groomed as | to dress—and dowdy and untidy as to| speech. It is possible to have one’s hair cut in the latest and smartest mode—and still to be 10 years behind the times in conversation. The line of your dress may be beyond reproach—the last word in chic—yet the line of your small talk may be as out vation as a year-before-last dress. Good Vacation Packing Is Needed BY BETSY CALLISTER. OT only do most people like to travel, but to most of us there is a decided thrill to be got out of the ,various gestures and tasks of Ypacking. We grumble quite a bit about the nuisance of hav- ing to decide what to take and what to leave at home, of arranging our things s0 that they may be transported safely, and of finding how to arrange things so that leas: space will be taken. But, after all, most of us rather like it all, and the woman who has a maid to take entire responsibility off her shoulders misses some of the fun. If you want to get the best results in packing and make unpacking as simple as the actual packing, here are some suggestions that may help you: Always have on hand a pl-ntiful sup- ply of tissue paper. Save the paper that comes around dresses and hats when delivered, or get a roll of the cheapest sort of white tissue paper for the pur- pose. Crumple pleces of the paper up to use as padding under fluffy ruffies, lingerie, etc., and put sheets of the pa- per between dresses, suits and coats. Always pack the corners. Don't sim- ply pack the large things and then stuff Lhedwrne!‘l with small articles after- ward. If you do not have special trunks, boxes and bags for special articles, but must pack everything in the same trunk, always put the heavy things in first. Lay the shoes in the trunk first. Never wedge them in after the lighter things have been packed. Have bags in which to put shoes or wrap them in tissue pa- per. If you do not use shoe trees, then wad the toes with paper or cotton. Unless you have a special compart- ment for stockings, the best results are obtained by packing them flat, not rolled and wedged into corners. Lingerie should also be packed flat. If you have a wardrobe trunk, hang some of the heavier things top down- ward, thus making it possible to get more garments in a given space. Hang- ers of the sorts used for men's trousers may be used to hold separate skirts, belt downward, and heavier coats may be hung in this position £> as not to crowd too much at the top. Buttonhc;le Bows. beH-TVe you seen the new buttonhole ws! They are to be found on the lapels of some of the new ensemble jackets made from light Summer materiais. A picot-edged strip of the material is pulled through a small butwnhn& fllflflmmwnvmunndpl‘uon pel, and is tied ‘with uneven ends hanging down several inches, ALL SORTS OF THINGS TO MAKE TRAVELING EASY ARE SHOWN IN THE SKETCH —A FLATIRON AND FOLD- ING IRONING PAD, FOLD- ING SLIPPERS, C! LINE AND PIN; MENDING 1 PASSPORT HOLDER. ‘ Breakfast Manners Are Hard to Find We are no better bred than we would indicate by the way we behave at breakfast in the bosom of our ewn family. For every one's breakfast man- ners are his worst and a good many people forget that manners, like charity, begin at home. There are some othe: wise very well mannered persons who simply can't show much courtesy or consideration at breakfast. They are so constituted physically that they come to breakfast in a sort of daze and don't really entirely awake from their night's slumbers till after the morning meal. ‘There is nothing more discouraging to the cultivation of good manners than the appearance at breakfast of mem- bers of the family in sloppy attire and morning disarray. ‘To be sure, among women of wealth and leisure—whose neglige attire is as fastidiously attended to as is their dress for the opera, albeit more easily donned —the practice prevails of appearing at the breakfast table in neglige attire, But for the woman of many servants to do this is one thing and for the woman who needs must be downstairs in the kitchen betimes to prepare the breakfast it is quite another thing. If there is one thing more than another that tends to discourage the cultivation of courteous family breakfast manners it is the appearance at that time of a carelessly donned breakfast jacket, or other neglige, that has been doing service in the kitchen and a cap that indicates all too plainly that it is donned to conceal unkempt locks. For the woman who must do her own breakfast-getting the only correct dress for breakfast is a neat house dress. Hollanda'ise Sauce. ‘With any sauce made with flour it is important to have it cooked thoroughly. Otherwise there is a raw flour taste and the sauce is not wholesome. Yet in Hollandaise saucé too long cooking is ruinous. . Begin with the beaten yolks of two eggs, beaten until they are creamy. Add to them the juice of half a lemun. In a double boller place half a cup of good butter. Add a saltspoon of salt, a quarter as much cayenne pepper and the egg yolks and lemon. Stir von- nnntlf and gradually add half a cup of boiling water. When the mixturc is m'.h.ll.‘k A CIRCULAR SKIRTED SUIT OF PRINTED CREPE 15 il / 1 N RS 7, v T % i caivs srrdi 41 % g/ DE CHINE SHOWN AT THE LEFT HAS A NARROW BELT AT THE NORMAL WAISTLINE AND ANOTHER AROUND THE HIPS. FOLDS OF THE MATERIAL TRIM THE CIRCULAR FLARE OF THE BLACK CREPE DE CHINE COAT AT THE RIGHT. BY OLIVE ROBERTS BARTON. “Coppy” Herbister held up two fin- gers and wiggled them, at the same time arching his eyebrows inquiringly. Jim Overday slid down behind his geography and grinned assent, as he also inverted two fingers and wiggled them in answer, The wiggling went on all over the room and in about five minutes the grapevine - telegraph - had - wigwagged that 12 boys from Number Eight were “goin’ swimmin’” at 4 o'clock. . . Now in one way it didn't matter, but in another way it did. School was about over, final examinations were on, and the next day was geography exam. It had been a difficult grade and Miss Parker was anxious. “I want every one of you boys to take your books home and study as hard ‘as you can,” she said, sorting them out of line when the gong sounded and sending them back to thfllr se:'-s. s “I got to go away,” protested Coppy. “So've 1" declared Jim. “Do as I say,” said Miss Parker re- lentlessly. “And you'd better not away’ today. You'd better go it hurl‘ne and n.nggy mrd as you can.” ow geograj are books and when the 12 m:;m gathered at the corner below the school they looked like 12 frowning Spartans with 12 stout shields. “Well of all the luck.” growled Coppy. “Wouldn't you just be dog-gonned!” Jim drawled his disgust. “We can't hop trucks with these elephants!” “What'll we do with ’em?” ]dxt was Coppy who had the bright ca. . 3 On the corner stood a grocery store and in the grocery store stood Mr. Peters, a friend. “Pile 'em up on that cracker box, kids. That's all right. Swimmin'l Humph! For 2 cents I'd go along. Close at 6 or a little after. Get 'em any time up till then” Two empty vans delivered the boys 20 minutes later at Adam’s Mills, than which there is no finer swimming in five counties. At 5:50 four of the boys, the first Mr. Peters' father in another town, the card announced, was dead. The store would be closed for three days! As the other boys arrived they were informed of the catastrophe. Oh, no! They weren't worried about passing. It was worse than that. Each day just before an examination the text books of that subject were checked off and piled away in the book cupboard until Fall. It case of put -up- the book or “eough” up leéehe money. -Geogra] apiece. ‘They knew, for hadn’t Jerry White “just caught thunder” for I his? And hadn’t they seen Jerry, a Week's hand over two .crisp $1 bills to the teacher? ‘Whew! Three days! School would be over! The next morning at 9 the principal came in with a boy beside her carry- ing' 12 geographies. Mr. Peters in spite of his hurry on receiving the telegram had remembered the books and had sent them over to the school. mHe thereby made 12 customers for e. This is a story, not for parents, but for business men. If you want to build up trade for the future, or any business friendship, start with the children now. Theyll all be soon and running the world. Anf&;" remember kindness and thoughtfulness. Reducing Powder Whenever you see two or three wom- en engaged in conversation for any length of (ime—and. who doesn't?—the | chances are that sooner or later the tople of fat reduction will be up before the house. We may have Amy, Ruth and Anne deep in such a discussion, “Well,” Anne confides, “I live in & woman’s community club, and what I see there in the line of reducing fads is nobody’s business. Right now reduc# ing baths are all the rage. Several of the girls have bought the powder—at a doilar for a 3 or 4 ounce bottle—and are following the directions religiously.” One of the girls at Anne’s club is a chemist, and, hearing the others en- thuse over the new fad, decided to an- alyze the powder to learn what magic chemical it contained. In this particular case the analysis showed that the reducing powder was composed of ammonium carbonate and starch. In a general way it was a fair sample of such powders, though, of course, the chemical employed may be epsom salt, washing soda, baking soda, Glauber’s salt (sulphate of soda) or ammonium chloride. ‘The milky appearance and smgoth feeling of the bath water into which the reducing powder is dissolved is caused in most cases by the starch with which the chemical is mixed, though the same or similar effect may be pro- duced by using almond meal, oate meal, ete. When the chemist told all this to the girls they were very much interested, particularly when they realized how commonplace and inexpensive the re- ducing chemicals were. Equal parts of starch and of one of the chemicals named will make as good a reducing powder, at a fraction of the cost, as any you may buy under a tradc name. But are these powders really able to do all that is claimed for them in the matter of taking off weight? And how? ‘The directions on most brands of reducing powders instruct the user to place a certain amount of the prepara- tion in hot bath water and to keep the body immersed in this for some time. After 20 or 30 minutes the bather steps out' of the tub, thoroughly dries the body and hops into a warm bed, there to remain another half to three-quar- ters of an hour. ‘Then the pores of the body pour out perspiration. It is a fact that weight mmetumu disappears during this treat- ment. ind creamy it is done. It must st ot Ao “enough " to mi overcook As & general thing it is water from the body tissues, and not fat itself; that is lost through the medium of perspiration. Turkish baths should pro- duce the same results. . However, when the tissues are de- prived of the fluids which are part of their composition the body immediately sets up a fil! thirst. Woe to the re- ducer if sl listens to this demand, for as soon as. sufficient water is taken into the system to replace the deleted quantity she is back again to just where she started! It would seem that the point in using reducing bath powders is to give the too plump person something to think about as she immerses herself in the tub of water for the required number of minutes, Brocceoli Is .Good Green Vegetable Broccoli, which is a sort of second ! cousin to the cauliflower, is making its | appearance in American markets. It is somewhat more delicate in flavor than either cabbage or caulifiower and the fact that it offers one more green vege- table to the list gives it a good chance of becoming as usual and as much liked here as it already is in England and on the Continent. ‘The following practical cooking hints concerning broccoli have recently been glven by experts in the United States Department of Agriculture: ““The lower end of the stalk is trim- med off, so that sometimes there may be considerable waste in with melted butter or Hollandaise sauce.” Floram_i;;e: On New Muslins