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THE BLACK FELT HAT ABOVE AT THE RIGHT HAS A PIPING OF STRAW AND IS TRIMMED WITH ARTIFICIAL BLOND CURLS, WHICH ARE CAUGHT UP ON T! HE HAT IN FRONT. BELOW IT, RED FEATHERS ARE SHOWN APPLIED TO A HEAD BAND OF RED STRAW WITH NATURAL CURL BACK. N is this season. There. is an almost endless variety of shapes to choose from and almost as many sorts of material. ‘While black hats are decidedly smart and hats of natural straw tone are highly favored, milliners have used col- ors more lavishly this Spring than they have for years. There are close little hats that give piquancy to well formed features, hats with medium brims that are stamped with'the approval of fash- ion here and abroad, and wide-brimmed hats that will be increasingly important as Summer approaches. One of the most interesting things about this business of buying hats this season is that hats that we are now considering for warm-weather wear are often so entirely different from those that we considered a few months ago for early Spring wear. Trimmings are often used more lav- ishly on the Summer hats. There are flowers or feathers to give them the added femininity that light, airy Sum- mer frocks require. There are still | many hats that extend well down at BY MARY MARSHALL. OT since ante-bellum days has the business of choosing a new hat_been so stimulating as it S SHOWING BENEATH AT THE | the nape of the neck, some of them | actually resting on the shoulders, but | there are very new hats that are cut off short at the back.to give greater j comfort on warm days and inciden- 'ully to show the neatly arranged curls of the longer bob. | The brims of ‘our hats no longer. eclipse our personalities. Though they often droop and the front of the hat comes down to hide an evebrow, almost all hats are so draped or slashed or rolled as to give a fairly good glimpse of the face. Useful as the light-weight felt hat still is for sports wear and for practical traveling and motoring use, the felt hat has had to move over to make room for all sorts of straw and fabric hats. To go with dresses of linen and cotton there are interesting shapes of stitched linen, pique or organdie. The time has gone when a woman might wear some sort of simple felt hat for practically every occasion and with every costume. This season fashion de- mands a special hat for every ensem- ble, or if not actually a separate hat, at least a hat that has been chosen with regard to the color and lines of the dress with which it is to be worn. (Copyright. 1929.) Your Baby and Mine BY MYRTLE MEYER ELDRED. ‘The discovery that the good old sun, to which we have been used all our lives and from whose intense rays we have been taught to.protect ourselves, has now become a therapeutic agent, guaranteed to cure almost anything under it, has given rise to a peculia: situation. We have no intention, we say hastily, to subtract anything from the sun’s glory or from any of its right- ful claims, but people should stop swal- lowing half-digested statements and do & little personal thinking. The sun is just the same sun it always was. Chil- dren sent out-into its blazing splendor, dressed in however fashionable a sun- suit, are just as liable to sunstroke or to being burned to a state of torture as they ever were in the good old days when the last warning we heard as we stepped out of doors on a hot day was to “Stay out of the sun!” Just because we call this exposure to sunshine sunbaths, just because we lie on expensive beaches and coat ourselves with brown, doesn't make the dangers of overdoing this fad one whit less obvious. When we take expensive ultra- violet ray treatments from a quartz lamp in a doctor’s office we are warned of the dangers of over-exposure to it. But when we throw innocent children out in the hot sun and dress them in nature’s garments we temporarily anesthetize our good sense and forget or refuse to know when to call a halt. Sunlight has legitimate uses as a curative agent. Growing human bodies, just the same as growing plants, can't get along without it. We have far too much of it in the Summer time, and not half enough of it in the Winter, hence our cod liver oil and sunbaths have a real place in the Winter regime. But in Summer we have to turn about and protect ourselves from the sun, knowing that the air is full of the diffused ultra-violet rays and that a child can hardly get too little of them if he goes outdoors at all. So instead of putting him out like a small chicken on a spit and rolling him round and round until well browned we take off as many of his clothes as pos- sible, leaving face and hands and legs bare, even in the early Spring, and take him out in the air. “We know that in the air he will get the ultra-violet rays. We likewise know that if he is dressed Millinery ‘The color of the hat follows the color of the dress or wrap with which 1t is to be worn. If it does not match the dress should at least match the ac- cessories. Black hat or hats of natural- toned straw are best for general wear, | since they look well with almost any ensemble, There are wide-brimmed straw hats of black .for beach and country wear that are smart and un- usual, Straw or light felt hats of capucine | or nasturtium shades are sometimes chosen to wear with dresses of those tones. Buttercup yellow is smart for wear with dresses in which the yellow note occurs. Some of the new fine straw yellow hats are trimmed with & soft brown. Chartreuse hats have met with con- siderable approval among well dressed women for wear with printed silks in which the chartreuse tone occurs. Lip- stick red has been spoken of within the last few days and so have Monet and Persian_blue < Especially attractive are ‘some of the wider brimmed shapes of fine straw in soft brown tones. Small white apple blossoms trim one of the most_attractive of these. , Natural-colored lace is used to trim tome of these fine brown straws and pink-and- | and set in a sunny room with the win- dows closed he ‘'won't, because ultra- violet rays do not go through ordinary window glass nor do they go through clothing. In the Summer the strength and potency of the, ultra-violet rays are intensified. The hotter the climate the stronger these particular rays, so to turn a child out minus clothes or in- adequately covered on a hot, hot day is just as cruel a procedure, and just as censurable a one, as if we held him too close to an open fire in order to warm him up. Moderation in all things. We need sunlight; we can use sunbaths and still not utterly lose our reason. The tiny baby must be accustomed to sun’s rays very slowly. His skin is ten- der and burns easily. His eyes are sen. sitive to its brilllant light. A sunburn {iIs still a sunburn. The infant should | be kept outdoors for as many hours as is possible, but he need not be in the direct sunlight and his head and eyes should always be shaded. ‘The small runabout needs no particu- lar sunbath ceremony. He is to be sent out to play in the early morning and the clothes he has on can be counted on two fingers, a suit and a pair of sandals. Dressed thus, he neither out- rages sensitive neighbors nor does he stand the chance of losing most of his skin through sunburn. In the hot parts of the day he should be kept in the shade or even in the house, with just the same precautions to keep him cool as existed long before sunbaths, We are far too prone in our en- thusiasm for the preventive and cura- tive effects of sunbathing to remember that in some climates the sun shines all the year round. That even in our temperate zones the farmer gets sun- light eight hours of the day. And there are still diseases and ailments and sick- ness abounding in both places. Looking at those entrancing ac- tresses sunning themselves on the beach and becoming maudlin over this sun cult, we are expecting that just to be in the sunlight will work some miracle and cause all our ills to vanish and be no_more. ‘The real miracle, if we followed such a policy in hot weather, would be wl lescape a sunstroke. Rainbow \Is also used on black straw or erin. A trimming arrangement ascribed to Re- (boux is that of placing gardenias at |the back of the hat. A small shape of fine black straw has flat feather | rimming of chartreuse. Rough straw of the sort that were worn this Winter at Palm Beach and other resorts frequently have colored linen ribbon bands and bows to match the linen dresses with which they are! worn. Sometimes a band of pique is used in this way when a pique dress is to_be worn. |visca, milan, tuscan are some of the | straws most ‘highly spoken of this sea- |son, Crin, which is light of weight, ,crisp and transparent. is often com- bined with crowns of more substantial material. Leghorn in natural tone in | wide-brimmed, picturesque shapes has | come into favor in parts of the country where shade hats have been called for. Hospital for Animal | AUCKLAND, N. Z. (#.—A fully ~quipped hospital, with an isolation | ward, operating amphitheater and dis- {ecare of animal pets and birds. Al nperations are performed under anes- | thetics, | The only excuse for not doing it is that |you might have expired in the interv: | In general all invitations, once ac | cepted, are binding to the extent that | one -would not be free to accept another | will be free to | should refuse; that | your refusal till your other possible en- Bakou, bangkok, ballibuntl, sisol, perle ! pensary, has been opened here for the | AY STAR. WASHINGTON, D. C A WIDE-BRIMMED HAT OF HAIR STRAW WITH BROWN VELVET RIBBON TRIMMING IS SHOWN ABOVE IT AT THE RIGHT, A HEAVY CREAM LACE AND BLACK B/ THIS 1S A NAVY BLUE BAKOU HAT WITH MEDIUM BRIM, TRIMMED WITH WHITE LINEN. BLACK HAIR STRAW HAT WITH WHITE LACE AT ONE SIDE. WITH GROSGRAIN RIBRON AN D THE LAR Once Accepted, And You Must Go | Attending a dinner after you have accepted an invitation is something like | returning your partner’s lead in whist. invitation later for another apparently more important event and then crave to be excused from the first. But a dinner invitation is particularly sacred. You may refuse it if you like and you need not even explain why, save for the in- definite “previous engagement.” But | once having accepted it you should | make it a sacred duty to attend. | If you are in doubt as to whether you | attend a_dinner you | is. unless you are | extremely well acquainted with your hostess and she urges you to postpone gagement shapes itself. 0 say to a_hostess who invites you to dinner, “I have in a way accepted another engagement for that night, but I shall get out of it if possible. Tl let you know in & day or so whether I | Shall be able to come,” is extremely dis- courteous. It the hostess is not well known to you, simply say that you have another engagement. 1f you are well quainted, tell the hostess just how Garnishes Every good cook knows that much depends on the way she garnishes the food she prepares. Please substitute the masculine pronoun and read the sentence again, for the high-class male cook +is A past master at the art of garnishing. And it is a very good idea for the | woman who would do the thing un- usual- to look about her in the restau- rants and hotels she visits to get tips in this matter of garnishing. Some- times the simplest thing, which may be easily copled at home, is the most ef- fective. Indeed, the overornate garnish is something to be avoided. One interesting tea room does this with its brolled fish orders: It serves two slices of lemon with each order of fish, one covered with paprika, one lib- erally sprinkled with black pepper. ‘These bits of lemon are both useful and decorative. A hotel restaurant serves a fresh leaf, well hed, of course, with each order of halved grapefruit. The leaf, sparkling with water, is placed on top of the half of grapefruit. Another hotel restaurant uses a tiny pyramid of whipped cream, pressed through a tube, as a garnish to tomato bisque. Egg white shredded with a knife is used as a garnish for chicken salad at | matters stand, but leave it to her to suggest that you leave the matter open. a place where this delicacy is & spe- clalty. THE SMALL MAY 12. POKE SHAPE ABOVE | | Give Fillip , | Strips of toast, narrow, crisp and! evenly browned, are used to garnish | | creamed codfish in a business men's | | restaurant. You see, all these garnishes mean something. They add to the taste as| well as the appearance of the dish ' which they accompany. And that is what a real garnish should do. The| purely decorative garnish is not half so | worth while as the one that is also edi- ble and an addition to the taste or food value of the dish. The leaf in the case | |of the grapefruit is an exception. But | | there are always exceptions. | 2 Here’s a Good Standard Dessert| One-quarter pound blanched almonds, one dozen marshmallows, one dozen | candied cherries, one-half dozen almond macaroons. ! Giip all these fine with scissors. Dis- | solve one rounded tablespoon of granu- lated gelatin in one-quarter cup cold water. Add one-quarter cup bolllnl’ water. Then add scant cup sugar. Stir till dissolved. Whip a pint of ¢ream stiff, add gelatin mixture, almonds, cherries, macaroons and marshmallows. Beat till cold and flavor with vanilla. Pour in mold. IT IS ATTRACTIVELY P(IRI_HAT_OF REI)—MI!.A HASA \ARROY GRAY RIBBON TRIMMING. 1929—PART 3 IN THE CENTER OF THE GROUP. 5KOK HAT SHOWS A WIDE BRIM AT THE LEFT SIDE. BELOW IN THE CIRCL AT THE LEFT IS A LARGE TRIMMED Head ; Work On Sandwiches It was intended to be a minced sar- dine sandwich spread tidily on a thin | slice of bread, covered neatly with an- other thin slice of buttered bread, the crusts -trimmed off and the whole cut | triangularly across. | But the guests—the new neighbor | and her husband—came a little early and there was no time to get out the sardine tins and mince them. Oh, well, no matter, that could be done when- ever the hostess happened to be dummy! | But when the tin was brought down from the third shelf of the cupho-rdl it wasn't sardines at all. It was snacks. There was another tin. Snacks, too. She would make toast and perhaps the snacks with a bit of lettuce would | be all right. Heavens! were those sandwich buns, but there weren't enough to feed the four of them. | Two games later, when the hostess | rushed into the kitchen it was with a light heart. She had had such a bril- liant idea when she overtrumped the | new neighbor and took the last_trick. | Luckily there was bacon in the house. | She split the sandwich buns and toast- | ed them—that certainly covered up the | fact that they were getting stale. She spread each with butter and the tinlest smudge of mustard. Then a lettuce leaf. Then half a snack with a bacon curl on either side. It was handsome. The buns, vou see, went twice as far No bread. Of course, there l BY BETSY CALLISTER. ACES never seem to become too civilized or too sophisticated to be interested in beads, and women never seem to grow too preoccupied or Important to | enjoy stringing them. Bead' stringing has become quite an art and there are special sorts of string and special needles to be had to per- fect the art. Fashions in beads change from time | to time and the string of beads that satisfied you last year or the year be- fore may seem just wrong today. You may have liked the short necklace of choker length last year and this year you may feel that the necklace should be just a trifle longer so as to give an | oval line at the base of the neck. If you have a string of real pearls of choker length this may mean that you will have to take it to a jeweler, buy a. few matching pearls and have | the string lengthened. Less expensive chains you may feel inclined to length- en_yourself. of beads—not enough left to make even a tight choker. This gives you the op- portunity to use your ingenuity in re- stringing them with some additional beads to make an entirely new sort of | necklace. A number of large beads may be strung between small imitation pearl beads, in one or two or three strands— the shortest strand of choker length. Strands of fine beads twisted rope fash- ion round the neck are smart at present and these are not difficult to make. You can buy all sorts of interesting beads nowadays—of wood and glass, bone and varjous compositions that give variety to shape and color. ‘When stringing beads, run the thread into the ring at one side of the clasp, and tie it two or three times, leaving a short end as well as a long end. Then string the beads on the long end, and when you get it completed, fasten on the other side of the clasp, then run the thread back into the string of beads for a couple of inches. Now run the short end of thread at the other end of the string back for a couple of inches, to strengthen it at both ends. You can string three strands of beads, and fasten them all in the same clasp, thus making one of the very popular new three-strand necklaces. ~You can make bracelets in the same way. The longer strings of beads, can be made without clasps, for they are long enough to slip over the head. Tassels can be made of strings of small beads. The strings must be strongly fastened at the free end. It is a good plan to run the thread back again, through the beads, to the top of the strand, and there fasten it to the group that makes the tassel. (Copyright, 192 — e course, {Bedroom Caraffes Come In Colors | The most attractive caraffe and glass | sets are sold for the bedroom, and cer- ! tainly one would be an exceedingly Or perhaps you have a broken string | ! good thing for the guest room. The caraffe has a matching glass | fitted over its top, in place of a stopper You can buy these caraffes in all sorts of materials and colors. They come in vacuum bottles, enameled in all the lighter shades that might be chosen for a bedroom. They come, too, in colored glass. Fo: children they come with painted glass tumblers shaped like cats’ or dogs’ | heads. They come in china decorated in many patterna. s, HERE ARE SOME INTERESTING WAYS OF STRINGING BEADS THAT ANY CLEVER WOMAN— WITH THE BEADS AND STRIN ING PARAPHERNALIA — C AN FOLLOW, Bead Necklaces Please All Tastes = / YELLOW AND BLACK FLOWERS ARE USED IN AN ORIGINAL MANNER TO TRIM THE BLACK BENGALE HAT SHOWN ABOVE AT TOP. IN THE CENTER IS SHOWN ONE OF THE SEASON'S NEW SHAPES IN BLACK BANGKOK TRIMMED WITH PINK ROSES, AND BELOW IS MARIA GUY'S LOUIS ¥VI HAT OF NAVY BLUE STRAW WITH NAVY BLUE AND YELLOW RIBBON. [ '| Use of Pepper and Salt | Offers Table Problem Are the salt and pepper boxes a|The shaker has numerous advantages, necessary adjunct of the ceremonious| however. It is dustproof, while the dinner, or of any dinner -hat has been | open cellar Is left on the table or carefully prepared? This is a question | sideboard for even an hour or so and that not infrequently perplexes the must collect dust. Moreover, with the hostess who prides herself on the per- | salt shaker there is no need for & salt fect equipment of her dinner table and | spoon. the correctness of her entertaining. On the other hand, in some sections The argument against placing these | Of our own land there are damp sea- accessories on the dinner table is that | Sons when salt shaker, no matter how such seasoning is unnecessary with a | frequently cleaned and refilled, is bound well-cooked dinner and that they tend | to clog. There is nothing so irritating to “clutter up” the dinner table. ~ Some | 5 & Sllg ;hltk" ‘hfl' g :x;x';‘; ?:; persons place salt and r boxes 1S tempted to resort to vi only at intervals, m-km'p?{ px:tcessary\ bang the offending container on thel for two or possibly three persons to share | table—even though we may know that the same supply. This is well and good | i 8 transgression of the law of table for an informal meal, but at a formal | flevf‘"mem that bides us dine noise~ dinner it would be most inconvenient. | lessly. Really, why should we have to have sali | 1t i because of the annoyance of d hen all t the clogg-d salt shaker that most per- e e itk 00d has been | (0 “riow use the open salt dishes. By many persons this type of contalner For breakfast it is different—then we | jg regnrpded as “correct.” With the cel- need salt for eggs broken at the table )or these should always be a spoon. If and we may use it on apples or bananas | v,y have no silver spoons and do not or other fruit. The argument is some- | Lich to buy them. very small glass | times made that some persons like more 1adles made specially for that purpose | salt and pepper than others, hence it may be bought for a small sum. Need- is necessary to have these flavoring | jess to say the cellar should be filled accessories on the table. But then some | fresh before every meal. persons like more sugar than othersand | The salt should not be sprinkled some persons like more olive ofl on | over the food. It should be taken in their salad than others, and yet we have | sufcient quantity to last for the entire broken ourselves of having sugar passed | meal and placed at the side of the with our pie and pudding, and salad is | plate. If it is desired for celery it may usually dressed before it is served NOW- | pe placed on the butter plate. It must adays. | never be shaken on the cloth for that purpose. Some persons first open their potatoes and mash them and their other pepper served on dinner tables as | vegetables conveniently on their plate well as on breakfast tables. How then and then shake around the salt and should they be served? | pepper. This, of course, is childish and It is usual in England—probably be- | positively incorrect. cause of the prevalent dampness there | If there is no salt spoon never use —to serve salt in an open cellar. The | the fingers nor a knife or spoon th use of salt shakers is regarded as a |has been used. Use a fresh knife of gross Americanism by many persons. | spoon. However, it is quite likely that most persons will continye to have salt and Styles in Food Have Led to Simpler Meals There are fashions in meal planning |now borrowing culinary ideas from th just as there are fashions in hats and | country quite as eagerly as we ever bord frocks and interior decoration, and |rowed from them. there is no more reason to think that| The word American as applied t 30 years from now we or our children | cookery no longer indicatet. somethin will be planning menus similar to those |overrich and generally indigestible. Wi we plan today than to think that we are as well known in Europe for our de today should plan meals identical to licious salads and ices as for our crulls those served a generation ago. lers and ples—and even our crullers and; The present tendency, in this country pies are far less likely to be condemned at least, is to serve meals that include |as indigestible than they were & gen more and more fruits and vegetables. eration ago. The high cost of meat and the preva- lence of the opinion that meat ought not to be eaten usually more than once & day have done much to change the general plan of luncheons and break- | Real Stones for Hats, Says Pari Word went forth from Paris or tl | Riviera earlier in the season that onl real jeweled ornaments are now worn on hats and that even shoe buckle should be of real diamonds, emeralds,] pearls or other precious stones. That sort of advice is very helpful if you happen to have a flock of ancest: gems just waiting to be set in some |useful form, or if you chance to have] |a pair of real Louis XV shoe buckles| | that you are tired of keeping at a loan] exhibit. But it is not so helpful if] | your only diamond is a rather small | one set in your engagement ring. Even then, that sort of advice h its application and significance to the| majority as well as to the minority, If you can not wear real diamonds in| your hat then wear the smaller sort| of rhinestone or paste ornaments that look as if they possibly might be| | real. Choose the amaller rather than| | the large shoe buckles and clasps and matter of cooking and food preparation = don't make the mistake of wearing) within the past generation, but our | any bit of brilllant ornament every meals are as distinctively American as hour of the day and every day of th they ever were, And Europeans ® week. fasts. The higher cost of food generally has made us plan our meals more thought- fully, and, interestingly enough, has raised the general standard of cookery in this country. G Hut though foods of all sorts are more | expensive, we have them in far greater varfety in all parts of the country, and hence we are far less circumscribed in our planning than women were 30 or 40 years ago. Another tendency plainly to be seen in’ the meals planned in most families is toward a greater formality. We do not load our tables with a lavish sup- ply of this sort of food and the other, bidding members of the family and guests merely to help themselves. In- stead we arrange the various foods in definitely planned dishes, serving defi- nite portions in the form of appetizers, entrees, salads, side dishes and desserts. It is true that we have borrowed much from European countriés- in the