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THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C. JULY 19, 1925—PART 5. Dress to Your Age and Fisure When You Reach Maturer Years BY MARY MARSHALL. OME prominent in the milli ner rked b that the sin all be visited upon the children unto the third and fourth generation, now « adays the sins of the children are vis ited upon their parents, at least as far conc Mothers, possibly great-grand: seen wearing hats 4 designed for w of youthful form and bearing that quite, quite wrong when worn by older women The very first and best thing for the older woman to do in solving this problem of suitable clothes has pos sibly more to do with diet and exercise and daily habits than it has to do with clothes he whole vexed ques tion becomes almost simple when the ¢ older wc has not put_on many pounds since her twenties. Tt is better to be siizRtly underweight than even a pound overweight, according to the life insurance authorities, and with this the makers of fashion agree. You an get & without curves now adays, but you'l have a hard time loc and fashionable if you | no straight, slender lines about 3 So really, quite serfously, why n the very t ning in well and looking very smart after 45 or 50 or 60 or 65 or so, and take off all extra weight. Your doctor will be atified as you maker. e - kers have - women of ath of war hen the slender This is not ap: soli is a per n is sup sme. parently a condition that prevails else - in Europe. The story goes that n a celebr ench dressmaker owed i 1 not long ago to his new clothes with a flock of ng mannequins of fashionable pro- ions he created quite a sensation ov n fraus watched nequins haps with Dity pparently had But it did em nor to the pe an dressn who sought in fon in this fashion show that these overweight ladies should not be dressed in the same styles. Surely clothes were never before ite so trying to the fat woman, and nearly all women gain welght as they grow older, it follows that the present mode is often very trving for en of mature ve e new do look dowdy if they are not . ind snug, but there is always when a of seeming ridiculous v t slender wears one cks that Is skin tight * K ok X course the only answer to the is that the older woman lender and youth: problem whose figure is not ful simply must apply moderation— but only as much moderation as is necessary. The very long skirt or the frock that is too full only attracts attention to her disqualifications. The boyish hair cut, while popular with many older women, is most ex acting. No woman with a fat neck should ever make the mistake of adopting this fashion. However, there are some older women with well shaped heads and graceful necks who look very, very well in this rather trying mode. sver before has the problem of making frocks and hats for the older ren received so much attention as does at the present time, and this s becauge most women nowadrys re use to be old women when in Yeality they still feel the enthusiasm ahd ani- mation and ambitions of youth. They won't solve their clothes problems by wearing hats that are just a few vears out of style, because they know that this gives them an unfair handi cap. One thing that the older woman should bear in mind is' that her goal in most cases should be smértness rather ' than prettiness. Very few women past 35 are really - prett: though very often they are reali; ‘Things Which Are of Interest to Younger ad- | THE SURPLICE CLOSING 1S WELL LIKED BY OLDER WOMEN WHO WISH TO MAKE THE LEAST OF THE ACCUMU- LATION OF EXTRA POUNDS AROUND THE MIDDLE OF THE BODY. THE FROCK SHOWN BELOW IS IN NAVY BLUE, WORN WITH A SMART LITTLE BERET OF BLA VELVET. better looking when properly dressed at this age than when they were younger. For this reason it is rather wise to avoid the purely pretty hat, but here, again, applies the truth of the rule of the golden mean. While the older woman must avoid the pretty hat, she should likewise avoid the hat of bar: ren smartness. Usually the girlish little poke shape that has been so much worn by young women in Paris this Summer is not suitable for the woman of matronly years. This is the hat that is quite brimless at the back, with a coal- scuttle curve to the brim at side and front. However, there is a sort of modified poke, with narrow crown in ack gradually widening toward the Put on Puppet Show; Make Outfit_Yourself F you want to have a lot of fun d learn something, too, get to- gether with some boys or girls in your neighborhood and make a puppet show. You can make as o puppets as you need. With little practice you can put on all sorts of plays and g ular shows » which you can invite our friends nd families, The s the first thing to make. veal theater, wooden box This you in a Use a feet in size. It is like THIS 1S HOW YOUR PUPPET SHOW STAGE SHOULD LOOK et at the grocer's. Have | off on two sides and set it so open at the front ind top. TF ou e the floor sides and back of your stage. The op must be left open so the people who work the puppets may stand above and work the dolls. Hang Drop. Actoss the front of yourstage hang . which is a piece of cloth 9 to s deep. Furnish the room with doll furniture, but do not use much furniture, as the strings will tangle. For your curtain, set your stage on the table in a doorway be- ween portieres which are pinned to- cer just over the stage. This hides -k the puppets, for they must stand on the back of the able and make the dolls act and talk A= to the marionettes or puppets, themselves, they must be so limber #\: they will double up at every jurX except when they are held up- Yitlii by their strings. Keep this in 1@ when making them Make Stuffed Tubes. Ten to fourteen inches high ls about ht for a doll. For the body stuff a piece of stocking or tube made of koftted underwear matertal 5 inches * Tor Arms and legs, too, are made f ‘stuffed tubes of stockings or un lerwear, two for each arm . ‘Weight the feet with shot, c comething else that is fairly heavy Bew the astuffed. tubes. jogether yery, e people who w | and each | | firmly, but very loosely. at the knees and elbows, using strong thread, then sew to the top and bottom of the body same way. Be sure they are lim- The head may be either a real doll's head or a stuffed head. Sew it at the neck to the body like the arms and legs. Attach Strings. Attach strings to the doll at each wrist and each knee and on each side of the head, at the ears. Heavy linen thread is best. Fasten the strings of the head and arms, and one from the middle of the back, 10 2 wooden cross- plece which moves back and forth easily. The knee strings are fastened to a separate strip of wood. To make the puppet walk, twist the wood piece back and forth. To make it bow, move the head and arms with the crosspiece held in the other hand. To make it sit down, lift the knee e HERE IS HOW YOUR PUPPETS SHOULD BE PUT TOGETHER. AN. THE ONE AT THE LEFT _ TURER YEARS THE LONG GEORGETTE COAT GIV] ETTE FROCK. THE NEAT LITTLE HAT IS 1S A TWO-PIECE PURPLE CHIFFON FROCK—A GOOD DESIGN FOR THE TALL WOMAN OF MA- S SLENDER, STRAIGHT LINE IN BEIGE, WITH SCARF ATTAC OF BEIGE FELT WITH SEL 7% NEEDED BY THE MATURER WOM- ED, WORN OVER BEIGE GEORG- TRIMMING. AT THE RIGHT front. This is a shape that is often most becoming to the older woman whose face still slender. The wide ‘ UEER WORDS l [ you know that many wox'd.si D® have a geography as well as a history? This is especially true when it comes to names for different kinds of_cloth. There's that common word “calico,” for instance. It comes all the way from Calcut, India. The cloth was | woven there and was probably called | “Calcut_cloth” by the early traders. | Sradually the name became twisted | wbout until it took on the form it | has today. | The same thing happened to cash- | | mere, which takes its name from its native city of Kasimir, also in India And muslin, that common material | which has so many household uses, | boasts a name from the romance of | | the East. “Muslin” was originally “Mosul.”" the city on the Tigris, not | far from Bagdad, where the cloth was | woven from the long silky cotton of | southern Mesopotamia. Another cloth from the East is gauze, which comes from Gaza in Palestine. And Europe gave damask its name because Damascus was the city most famous as the source of a particular kind of cloth. Towns in France have stamped their names on several sorts of cloth. There’s that lovely fabric tulle, which comes to us from the city of Tulle. The town of Arras was famous for its beautiful woven hangings, and now that word “arras” has come to mean a certain kind of tapestry. “Gingham” is a word that is supposed to have come from the town Guingamp, in Britany, a part of France. The word “silk” takes its name from old China, both words coming from the word “S the early name for the people of China Next time you go shopping, see how many other names of cloth have spe- cial meanings. There may be some that aren’t in this list, and have a romance all their own. THE FUN BOX. At Last. strings. After a bit of practice you can make your puppets move about in the ryost-lifelike way. You will have fun figuring out just how to work them in a way that will seem almost human. Light Your Stage. Nothing should be seen by your au- dience but the stage. A.person in front should draw_the curtains aside and close them. You tan make the room dark, all except the stage, by a light at the end of an extension cord, fastened at the top of the stage. Start in by making your puppets act out some of the simpler stories, like “Cinderella” and ‘“Red Riding- hood.” If there are some future play writers in your crowd it will be good practice for them to work up some plays of their own for your puppets to perform. All Right. “Pa, it's raining.’ “Well, let it rain.” Y WAS EOINE 10, Pda, ... Captain—Right about face. Rookie—Thank goodne: I'm right about something. Style. First Hobo—Say, wot would do if yer had a million er twe cond Ditto—I'd buy me a freight rivate use. car fer me own All ofr. “This weather doesn't agree with me.” “That's not surprising. It doesn’t even agree with the weather man.” Didn’t Count. Sambo was all dressed up and said to his boss: “Boss, I'm celebratin’ my gelden wedding.” “But fsn't yqur wife celebrating it with you?" “Oh, Mandy? to do with it. wife.” | Found! Pete (after heinz badly | election)—Did you vote for m She ain't got nothin® She's jes’ my third beaten in brim casts a shadow that hides hard Contrary to over the face ines and wrinkles. the opinion of m older women, the perfectly brimless toque ought never to be worn by the older w nor should the little hat THIS BOY THE 1S TAKING 3 DER THE WATER, HE IS SSON. WITH HIS FACE G THE ARM_MOVEMEN?Y L i AND CONTINUING THE KICK LEARNED LAST WEE! HIS ARMS MOVE ALTERNATELY, SOMETHING IN THE MANNER THE ARMS OF . BY JACK GIHON. This is the third article of a series in which Jack Gihon. nationally known swim- ming teacher. is showing boys and girls how to teach themselves to swim. Another will be published next week. E ought to feel thoroughly at home in the water by this time. Last week. you will recall, we learned not to be afraid of ducking our and learned the kick that en- us to swim without using our heads abl hand This week we are going to use: the arms, too—providing we have all prac- ticed until we know the leg moventent pretty well. My idea of swimming is that we should learn the elementary movements first, and let the fanciness come later. The up-and-down leg move- ment we learned last week, for in- stance, is what, in_time, will develop into the “flutter” kick, which is the whole secret of the crawl stroke. In perfecting the leg movement we must have our ankles loose, so that they will almost flop back and forth. The faster we can do this the better. Most speed swimmers get eight kicks to one complete arm stroke, but one cham- pion swimmer has recently developed his kick until he has a 12-beat flutter— 12 kicks, or 6 with each leg, to one complete arm stroke. Perhaps we will be able to do that if we practice real hard. Keep Face Down. We are going to continue to nrac- tice with our faces down in the water. We will begin just where we left off last week, when we were point! ing our arms over the head and Kick- ing. I am presuming that we are all able to do that—if we cannot, it is because we have not practiced enough. After all, it is only practice that is going to perfect us. I can write vol- umes telling you what to do, but it is not going to do you any good at all, unless you try it for yourself. ‘When we have a good start, kick- ing our way through the water, we will then bring our right arm down through the water, letting it come | out of the water when it reaches the waist. Just as it is rising, the same movement must be gone through Repeat—YXes, J was the ones _. dWith the left arma Do a2l A WINDMILL V JLD TURN. stand that? It is very easy—slmply a matter of revolving the arms, al- ternately, down through the water. The elbows can be bent a little, but the entire movement should come from the shoulders. Don't Stop Kicking. In moving the arms we do not stop kicking for a second. It might be a little difficult, at first, to make the legs move faster than the arms do, but 1 know we are all able to do it, if we practice. Now let's get a fresh start. We take a good, deep breath, and plunge forward through the water, ar over our head. We begin kickin +-e way we learned last week. Whan we are going good we begin the arm movements, this time taking four strokes ‘instead of two. Then we stop and come up for air. Let us try six_strokes this time. And then eight. T have known boys and girls to take as many as 18 strokes when they are learning, but it is not wise to take so many. If we can take eight strokes, continuing the leg movement all the time, we will be getting along fine. We must practice this steadily, so that next week .we can learn how to take our heads out of the water, for this will be the hardest step of all—to do it correctly. T hope the boys and girls who take this “correspondence” swimming course are going to write to me, in care of this paker, and tell me how they are getting along. I would like (to be with them, and have a plunge, too, but of course that isn’t possibl so the only way I will know if they are succeeding is for them to write and tell me about it. Their lettere cannot be answered. though. unless a stamped and self-addressed envelopé is inclosed. Well, good-bye until next week. And practice! PR Bumped. Storekeeper—I want a boy who will be partly indoors and partly out- doors. Boy—Where will 1 be when the door slamaz FOR_,THE SLENDER FIGURE A NAYY BLUE TWO-PIECE SUIT IS ALWAYS A GOOD SUGGES- TION. THIS ONE IS WORN WITH BEIGE STOCKINGS AND BLACK PUMPS, BEIGE DOE- SKIN GLOVES AND ECRU- COLORED STOCK. with a brim that turns up abruptly from the face. X x INJECKLINES are quite as important as hat lines in the clothes of older women. The Roman collar line and the collar that suggests the Chinese mandarin coat should not be included in the wardrobe of the older woman. On the other hand, the new deep V neckline is very good, especially if thi collar rises up at the back of the neck 1f added years have left you with a lean or sagging neck, then you should rejoice in thesreturn of high collars to fashion. If your face is not too full, then you can wear some of the new draped or smooth collars that fit snugly up to the chin. Less try. YOUR NAME IERES a list of Christian names | beginning with “I.” There aren’ very many of them, are there? isn’t one of the favorite letters of the | alphabet when it comes to beginning | names. ! Boy’s Names | Ichabold (Hebrew): inglorious | Ignatius (Latin): fiery. | Ingram (Teutonic): a raven ! Ira (Hebrew): vigilant, watch. | Isaac (Hebrew): laughter. Isador (Spanish): firm. Girls’ Names. 1 Ida (Teutonic): happy Imogen (English): well-born Inez (Spanish): star of the sea Tola (French): soft-haired. | Tone (Greek): delightful. | Irene (Greek); peace. Irma (Moorish): innocent, pure. Isabel (Teutonic), Isabella (Italian), Isobel (Gaelic): God in her oath. Isolde (Italian): my only one. How Cow Country Came Into Being. ID you ever hear the story of how the cow country came to be? It all came about through an ac- cident. You see, all the country which later came to be the great cattle rais- ing land was once looked upon as be- ing of no use for anything. Nearly every one lived in the country east of the Mississippi, and some lived in California. The country in between was look upon as just waste land through which the wagon trains had to pass to connect the two sections of the country. Then it chanced that in the Au tumn of 1866 a bullock team run by one of the express companies was freighting some goods from the Mis- souri River when an early snow stall- it on the plains of Western Nebraska. The drivers struggled in vain to get the team started again, and finally gave up hope of getting their cargo through before Winter. Turned Oxen Loose. They set about to dig a pit in which the goods could be left safely, piled their wagons together, and then, sadly, turned their faithful oxen loose, e ting them to perish in that wild Peteland, ‘When the drivers returned in the Spring, with a new team, to pick up their goods, there they found their old oxen, looking sleek and healthy. They were startled to find that cattle could not only live through the Win- ters on these plains, but could thrive as well. They told their story, and at once cattle raisers started moving into the ‘“‘cow country.” . Not Wasting It. Mrs. Jones—Have you given the goldfish fresh water, Janet? Janet—No, mum; they ain't fin- ished the water I gave them yester- day, yet. Taking No Chances. Salesman—This is the type of car that pays for itself, sir. Mr. Shrewd—Good! As soon as ft '1hat Jou can send. Lt-alons- | ing are the high coliars that are pro- duced by the foldings of a scarf drawn round the neck and left to hang in loops or ends at the shoulder. One of the fallacies regarding the proper apparel for older women that ought to be dispelled is that they should always don black for street wear. This is often a very lazy way out of your difficulty, And as a mat ter of fact, black, especially all black, is often very“trying to the sallaw skin. Many authorities on such matters sure us that a soft shade of brown is far more becoming because it tones In better with the brownish cast of the skin the right sort of beige is the b lection 0od results are sometimes gained for the sallow older woman by a black frock Sometimes ju: worn with the relief of ecru collars and cuffs in some sort of fine lingerie. Sometimes the introduction of a right contrasting color will relieve the unfavorable contrast between the sallow skin and the deed black. (Copyright. 192 PERSONAL HEALTH SERVICE BY WILLIAM BRADY, M. D. Light on Light. Ultraviolet (invisible) light from di rect sunlight or from the electric arc lamp or the mercury vapor quartz lamp will kill bacteria and some of the higher organisms (protozoa) in & thin layer of clear water in a few seconds; apparatus for this purpose devised by Thresh and Bealle steril- ized from 50 ot 200 gallons of water per hour, depending on the character of the water. Colon bacilll are killed in 15 to 20 seconds, typhold germis in 10 to 20 seconds, cholera germs in 10 to 15 seconds, some of the more re- sistent spores in 30 to 60 seconds, with a Cooper-Hewitt mercury vapor lamp having a quartz lens instead of glass and a current of 6 amperes, 130 volts Ultraviolet r: are the invisible rays beyond the violet in the spectrum or rainbow: they cause the chemical change in the photographer’s sensiti plate or film and the medical or phy ological changes brought about b: exposure of the living organism t sunlight or other source of ultraviolet energy or influence. Sunburn or tan ning is not the only effect of exposure of the body to sunlight. Rollier has shown the world how the ultraviolet rays of sunlight wherever a clear atmosphere occurs will cure tubercu losis, and before Rollier introduced the sun bath treatment at Leysin. in the Swiss Alps, Finsen had discovered the power of ultraviolet rays to cure lupus (skin tuber s) and other bacterfal or protozoal skin ses. Recently our own research workers have demonstrated by animal exper! mentation that the ultraviolet ray has the power to protect animals and man from the tendency to elop rickets when the food is deficient the vitamin which prevents ricke Exposure to ultraviolet light, eith from direct sunlight or from the arc lamp or the mercury vapor quartz lamp, is now a well established method of treating rickets in earliest stage of the disease. Dr. Alfred H. Hess 1o in atrist, has found, with his co-workers | in in this field, th: food substances which ordinarily carry little or none of the essential vitamin may be made able of preventing rickets by ir- radiation with ultraviolet light; even vegatable ofls may be rendered almost as effective against rickets by this means as cod liver ol is. the | | | | w York pedi- | Some research workers of the Great | Britain Medical Research Council re. v| When I get t cently proposed that the mysterious quality of the open air, of fresh air, which _distinguishes pure air from dead, foul, impure confined air, m be a physiological potency acquir from this activation by ultraviolet | light. We have always fancied that the air of mountain regions ha health-giving virtue not so noti present in the air in the valleys. We have long believed that the open air the outdoor air, is more healthful than indoor alir, all other physical or che cal features being equal. This su; tion of the British ph not beem substantiated as ve Dr. J6hn B. Todd of Syracuse, wh introduction of the cloth screen method of ventilation for sc rooms and other rooms some ves- | & 1 iologists has | smoothly eably | indfrectly | brought about the scrapping of many | thousands of dollars worth of me chanical ventilation equipment in New York schools, put forward this same idea of a possible vitami in fresh air ' Readers prior to the British research work allusion to it, I think AND ANSWERS. QUESTIONS No Suspenders or Neckties. Is it the law that a doctor has to make a visit and w in the second call in a confine! case; that i one call free?—J. G. A Answer.—No, is it the law that a merchant has to throw in a pair o suspenders or give - L a pair of pants. Th o over. If a merchant offers free sus penders or f 1 there's something cloth, You had the doctor who premium Ulcerated Ts Infected. explain the difference be tween an ulcerated tooth and an i cted tooth, X negatives shov t T have a number of infected teet which have given me no pain or trou ble, whereas I have walked the fl with an abscessed tooth, 1s there e today we know wrong with his better beware o es free calls as & Please and « becoming . 8. B Answer.—An absce normal again?—Mr s at the root of tooth is commonly called en “ulce: ated” tooth Don’t walk the flo h such an alveolar abscess—wallk > the dentist’s office and have the acted or the abscess other e t plan, and ffering. Infection e tooth or auses suct »out the yoot ess to the de atio In e nce, the mere nreliable for does not always prc gree of abscess f absence of other evi appearance the diagnosis of infection. 1 should not permit d t or phy cian to interfere with teeth wk were normal 11l other tests exce the X-ray picture. How to Quit Chewing. Three rs ago 1 rice. u have the fo of prick N root, bound t t of licorire to forr h extra a thick mass 1 harm done if ts swallows chews t ‘the whole pluz we're gonn on chewinz place a tobac it bel Harlequin Ice Cream. pare ice crea; salt anc ce cream When this arrange the spread straw over the b as hardened suf ange upon in soon hardens the p: hanner. I er over salt_and The above d flavors n tom. spri ece of w in the ice for two ation of col ried to suit Little Marjorie Saves The Honor of Jingo MASTILL had been one Jingo's ancestors. That counted for his huge bod his great head with its solemn ey But Marj declared that one of his other ancestors must have been a snail or a tur Only that could account for his re to move anywhere except when absolute- Iy necessary It was very difficult, though. to be ang his utter best worthlessn He had the jisposition in the world, and the Marlatt children had tumbled over him ever since they were babi Mrs. Marlatt had even caught Jack mak ing Jingo pretend he was a dead lion, the while the mighty hunter dragsed him around by the tail. Jingo trying nobly to look as though he was en- joying himself. But a crisis had come in Jingo's life, though he knew nothing about it him- celf. Mrs. Marlatt was planning to go to Europe for the Summer, to take Lucile across to study music. That meant leaving the house in charge of the four other young Marlatts and a housekeeper On the eve of her going there had been a series of robberies in that part of the pretty suburbs in which the Marlatts lived. And Mrs. Marlatt had made up her mind that her family must have a good watch dog. 2 “I'm sure Jingo would make a won- derful watch dog,” insisted Jack, ra- ther hopelessly. ‘‘He's never had a chance to show what he'd do to a sure-enough robber."” “Indeed!" replied Mrs, Marlatt, in the quick way she had. “The idea of Jingo as a watch dog! In the first place, he's too lazy to bother even to turn his head to look at a robber. In the second place, he makes friends with any one who pats him on the head or smiles at him.” The young Marlatss were silent. It was all too true. . Three days before Mrs. Marlatt left, Marjorie was alone in the house. The rest had all driven off to town with their mother to help her shop. And among the things they look for was a watch dog. Marjorie mmummumm:ma@um has-made a mistake again, would | of | § { | | y with Jingo for long, in spite of | er at udden swea comfor- ie heard a alt sound. hedge on the left side of t ted, and a mar stepped t unkempt and shar ling. There was no doubt t he for n d purpose. He eyed ho! el Perhaps he knew, Marjorie thought with a shud she was the only one hom Sio worthless Jingo except a mir ntruder to in the direction of Marjorie. What he saw there made him jump. A young girl him T ssly. She was cli g t the collar of a huge dog, wa rearing up on his hind le; Svident] she & the dog in the ve act at the unwelcome visit fou'd better go,” said the girl, gaspi little. “I don't think { I can hold hmuch longer." The man took one more look at the huge, and then went out as he had c Marjorie sa down in he be greeted by chorus of y Marlatts, who h come up to the house just in time tc witness the last of that scene. And then and there Mrs. Marlatt took back all ad said about Jingo as wa and he was reinstated in her fayc But Marjorie just had to draw her twin, Jack, aside for certain whisper ing and giggling. “Poor old Jing He does hate to be disturbed, but I grabbed him by the collar and yanked him up, clear off his front feet. When I told that tramp I couldn’t hold Jingo much longer, I was right. Jingo is too heavy to hold up very long at time. Care of Leather, 'HAT leather of good quality kept for ten years, under ordinary con ditions, does mot lose more than 15 per cent of its strength was shown by experiments of the Bureau of Stand ards. Belting stored in the laboratory for a decade was found to be only slightly weaker than new material of the same grade, Indicating that articles made from it would be pre- served for an indefinite period if sub jected to normal atmosphere, ventils fon and light, while dampness and sunlight appear to have a harmful effect on the leather. It is believed the results of the studies will enable manufacturers of shoes, luggage and similar goods to alter shipping and storage practices, since such articles may be capable of many years of serv ice even though they might not reach the user until one to three years after they are made e Wrong Bill. Wife—How many fish: was it vou caught on Saturday, George? Husband—Six, darling—all bea: ties Wife—I thought so.° That fsi