Evening Star Newspaper, March 1, 1925, Page 83

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, MARCH 1, 1925—PART 5. ‘Two-Piece Suits and Ensembles in the Latest Fashions for BY MARY OME of the dressmalkers a single tw: Spring eince velopedias an article of apparel for women and consequently brought into existence the two-plece suit, some time in/the nineties of the last cen- tury, has such a state of affalrs ex- isted. A few years ago the two-plece suit for women seemed as well established the conventfonal three-piece sult for men. There seemed about as 1uch chance for one to pass out as or the other. And, of course, the two-plece suit has not passed—not v a very long chance. The situa- tion only is that among certain I'rench dressmakers there seems to be little use for it. The ensembls costume has so completely taken pos- session of the fancy of women— French women especially—that there really is good reason for this atti- tude. On the other hand, several of the smartcst of French dressmakers and tallors have made the two-plece suit e important. Cyber has many of consisting of short, stralght ts and boylsh jackets of hip | me of them belted and straight as a man's coat. To go with them there neat little overblouses that fit tight around the hips. The suits are of the lighter woolens—more pliant than the English tweeds that seem 1o have become suddenly quite strong f s in some quarters. Cyber rather, soft poplins and fine MARSHALL. celebrated French have not shown -plece suit in thelr Never, rs ve he the two-piece suit coats or| the ensem- Madeleine e 1c reserved Madeleine een showing little suits hip-length jackets with ars, worn with flowing | wted skirts the tailor in Paris whose ost often quoted in connec with the strict taflleur, shows | ength jackets well as the | sth sort. The preference for length is undoubtedly due t that this conforms to the »ns of the masculine contour. little belted suit jackets resembl the masculine nd several smart tallors aking tailored suits con- ck cloth jackets over rk gray striped cloth, tak- from afternoon | fonable Frenchman P [NTERESTINGLY enough, O'Rossen ha r the 1l tailored suits, the | uit affected by | boy. This self when worn by Summer nd polite French nd in it in- his most success- | taken odel of one of spirat ful products. Martial et the bina Arn | tailored suit s contribution situation 1is a| on of a short, flat jacket of | worn with a short, rather ded skirt, and Jean Mangin | his customers t pred suits ugh wool and light gray here in Ar has mad not without ‘models to select from. Probably the strictly tailored are the smartest, for | the more te treatment better ac- cords with the < ed ensemble costume. The ilored type that . highest favor American girl mannish as well | disguising or notched collar -fitting sleeves that both smart follows the rule | that all fullness must the mind | suit for interesting g Things | tailors and ar. | better to give comfrotable | 2 3-1 AT LEFT, sBROWN VELVETEEI COAT. WORN WITH WHITE CREPE DE CHINE FROCK WITH BROWN BELT. AT RIGHT, EN- SEMBLE OF WHITE AND PLAIDED KASHA. THE FROCK, OF WHITE, IS TRIMMED WITH THE PLAID, AND THE COAT, OF PLAID, TRIMMED WITH WHITE COLLAR. is turned by the well known pleat at the front. Inverted pleats at the Side are seen in some the new tailored suits—the rule b ing apparently all costs be scant. cant and suits remain left perfectly flat the backs of these but with clever sheping and the advantage of the front or side box pleats there is none of that ugly tendency' to draw across the back that was so usual a season or so ago. What more, the American makers have learned the French—that it is little t00 much room cross the back than too little, and in the ready-made suits of this season you will find—as you perhaps did not last season—that through generous a trick from Which Are of Interest to Younger Hyena Zippers Give Speed Thrills. These speedsters are called hyena zippers because they are put together slantwise, like a hyena. The reason they are constructed slantwise is to give 'em more speed and it also makes them trickier to handle and easier to build. Better get on the job and build the first one in your neighborhood. They do travel! First, take five pieces of 2-inch by 4-inch board, 18 inches long, and put them together with two other 2 by 4-inch board “stringers.” ilustration shows how it's Now, take another bit of 2-inch by i-inch board, 20 inches long, and clamp half an old roller skate on ne end of it—and clamp it tightly > it will not come off. If you haven't old skate you can find one in the nefghborhood. 'In the middle of the center board »t your five “two by fours” bore a hole, at one end. Do the same thing with the middle of the free end of the “two by four” which has the skate fastened on it. A strong, hefty carriage bolt is now run through these two holes and the nut is put on the bolt. Do not bolt the boards to- gether tightly—there must be some play” between them. When this is ione, shear the threads on the bolt » the nut will not shake loose. The wheels on the rear of the hyena zipper are to be taken from some old wagon and mounted with the usual supports. (The illustration shows this, too.) Everything is now ready except the seat and rudder bar. A seat is necessary because the ma- chine slants down and you don’t want o slide off. Make this seat to suit your own pleasure—just 5o it gives you something to sit on Now put the rudder bar in place and nail it on tightly. You see, the machine coasts with the little skate wheel end going first and is steer- ed with the feet on the rudder bar. Yarns of the BY ART CHILDS. (Up in the great lonesome woods of the North the old guides have made up many yarns which they tell over and over to the tenderfeet from the sitles—their own wWay of explaining the strange tracks and weird noises. Mr. Childs, who used to be a game den in the woods of northern Wis- consin, collected these stories himself from the ‘“old-timers.”) Of all sad words of tongue or pen, The saddest are these: ‘Bait's gone again! " When you pull up vour hook and find that the bait is gone, and then it keeps on disappearing as fast as vou put jt on—well, the old fisher- man in the North woods will tell ou that the bait robbers have moved into that piece of water. These bait robbers are round, light, alry creatures, almost like bubbles, only larger than the largest bubble. Another way in which they differ om the bubble is that they have arms, eye nose, mouth and horns. They haven't any legs, but they don’t need them, as they live under water all the tim Their favorite trick is to catch your ifle just above the hook, raise it you can’'t feel any pull on it, and steal the bait piece by plece| fe it to the small fish that are ble to get it from the hook. Fins the fish, bug hard on the fishe erman! HYENA ZIPPER HALF OF ROLLER KSKATE RUDDER She's a tricky machine, and if you don’t watch yourself it means a spill the first few times you use her. But it's worth it. CAP'N ZYB. Big Woods. When they have finished taking your bait they give a hard, quick Jerk on the line and you haul it up, thinking you've lost a big fish. Then you rebait your hook and try again, but the balt robber is waiting for you, and like as not he'll trick you again. Couldn’t Keep Up. “Funny thing about these 15-cent sock “Wassamatter?”’ Every time 1 walk they run.” Answer to Yesterday’s Puzzle. [A[D] TIRIA[PIRFIEEID] box |seams or liberal box pleats there is box | | the that the back must at| plain and [FIGIRIETI [CINTE[R] ’ no chance of skimpiness. flat, straight siihouette seems much straighter and flatter when there is enough, and just enough, ma- terial. ‘WE Americans seem to share with the British a considerable fond- ness for striped cloth. The French, you know, do not. If you like that sort of thing, why not choose a striped woolen material for your Spring suit? If you have no appetite for the more striking stripes, select one that com- bines harmonizing tones, henna, rust and yellow. The mannish tailored t makes stricter demands upon the wearer than ever before. It demands abstemious- And really * xR in the selection of accessorles. you know, when Miss Flu might wear a strictly lored two-piece suit with billow: Irish lace trimming the jabot or frill In the front, worn where a turkey wears his gobble. A dainty hand-embroidered and lace- trimmed collar might be lald over the collar of the suit. There was a flow- ing chiffon veil, despite the severely mannish sallor straw hat, set above an elaborately waved pompadour, and there were a number of elaborate and scintillating hatpins. Possibly a jew- eled chain was worn outside the e tucked in at the front where the w was tucked into the belt. You may be old enough yourself to recall the picture. But now! for a mannish shirt & mannish haircut. mannish shirt has high in front with a conventional cravat. A plain silk or wool scarf is all that ought to be added by way of further neck covering The mannish suit calls a mannish >referably ollar that your PUZZLE NO. 1. . Employ. . Mire. . 601 (Roman). . Sorfow; lamentation. . Open to view. . Irish Gaelic. . Exclamation of sorrow. . Man's garment. . Stalk of a flower. . Exist. . Stories. . In this manner. . Famous American general. . Proceed. . Strikes with the open hand. . Advertisement (abbr.). . Make a victim. . Plants, . Commotion, . Facts. . Heaps. g . Deep gorge or ravine. A playing card. . Also. . Attempt. [E]D] R] . Unfair. Mre. Smith—How did Harty get on with_his history examination, dear? Mrs. Jones—He failed. can you expect? Wh; What else | they asked him questions about things that hap- | pened before he was born. . More Fun. Professor—I take great pleasure in glving you 81 in economios. John—Aw, make it a hundred and enjoy yourself. my | . A Western Indlan. . Perform a duty. . Comfort. . Manuscript, (abbr.). . Act. Take out; delete. . Packe tightly. . Belonging to it. . Repose. . Large tubs. . Score. . Filters through. . Marsh, . Grass land. . Ancient, 5. Pertaining to the vision. . Dry. . Sodium carbonate. . Famous New York merchant. . Vex. v . Desire. . Mineral spring. One (indefinitely). . Thoroughfare (abbr.). . Company (abbr.). No Chance. Brother—Run upstairs and get my ‘watch. Pledge—Oh, run down. Brother—No, 1t won't. winding. staircase. wait awhile and it'll Ours is a e Figure It Out. Tim—I1 attended a wooden wedding today. Eddie—Who got, married? Tim—Two Poles. hat, | ties | | The long mannish coat is almost never part of a two-piece tailleur. It | is rather the coat section of one of | the new ensembles. The name of the| Prince of Wales has been given now | to a coat for women that may become as generally assoclated with that name s was the formal afternoon coat for men with the name of his royal grand- father when Prince of Wales two gen- erations ago. 'or many years Ameri- cans knew what was meant by a “Prince Albert” coat, though they may | have had only a vague idea of who ‘Prince Albert really was. ! *x ok % | | COMETIMES the ensemble, namead | after the prince, consists of the | | regulation seven - eighths, double- | | breasted mannish coat and a stratght- | line one-piece frock beneath, both | ! made of tweed or some other mannish cloth. But this makes for greater heat | than most women like to contemplate | for Spring. Better suited to most | American climes is the cloth coat with |2 thin, one-piece frock of crepe de PUZZLE . Strong fiber, . Underground part. Indefinite quantity. . Egg-shaped. Subtle emanation. To affirm. Mother of Helen of Troy. Persia. Edible seed. Constructs. Undergarments. Not aifficult. Alloy. Personal pronoun. Conducts. German number. Pronoun. Accordingly. Parrot, Suitable. Italian river. Exclamation to- attract attention. Night before. Trials, Preposition. With outside part removed. In a row. Solled spots. Stableman. Companion. Kind of tree. To attract. To egg on. 63. Minerva's shield. 64. English school. 85. A promontory. 66. Short letter. 67. Remainder. 16. 17 18. 19. 20. 21. 24, 28. 29. | 33. 34, 36. 3 38. 39. 40. 41, 42, 44, 6. 48, 50. 53. 57. 58. 61 62, chine or something of that sort be- neath. Among the ensemble suits so called, which are in the majority this Spring, NO. 2. . Cayity. . At any time. . Manufactured. . Locallties. . To lift. . Belonging to us. . Openings (plural of os). . Coarse herb with yeHow flowers. . One of an ancient Italian people. . Above. . Kind of food. . Eagles. . Exist. . Point of compass. . To strike repeatedly. . Mature. . Insects. . Drinks in small quantities. . A curve. . One who mimics. . Bird, v . Runs on snow. . Preposition, . Command for silence. . Barters. . Bither; else. . Negative. . Bony horn, . A poplar. . Not 8o good. . Twirled. . Female horse, y . Unit of work ‘(plufal), Musical instrument. AT LEFT, NAVY BLUE TWILL, MADE INTO A DOUBLE-BREASTED TAILORED SUIT OF THE REGULATION SORT THAT PERSISTS FROM YEAR TO YEAR. NEXT THERE IS A GEORGETTE BLOUS IT, BEIGE OTTOMAN SILK SUIT. IN THE SAME SHADE TRIM- MED WITH BANDS OF THE SILK. THEN A BLACK COAT WORN WITH A PRINTED CREPE DE CHINE FROCK, IN BLAC D TAN. THE HEM OF THE RED FROCK IS OF THE COAT MATE- RIAL, AND THE COAT IS LINED WITH THE PRINTED CREPE. NEXT COMES A TWEED SPORT SUIT, WITH INVERTED PLEATS IN JACKET AND ¢ THE SAME COLOR. IRT. AND AT RIGHT, A PRINCE OF WALES COAT IN GREEN, WORN OVER A CREPE DE CHINE FROCK OF there is usually little strict adherence to tailors’ rules in the making of the coats. Some of them seem to go back | to Persia—the coats being straight and long with low, straight, upstanding | collar and the sleeves often flaring at | Paris dressmakers still set the fash- fon for making the frock to match the lining of the coat. In place of the ensemble consisting of coat, tunic blouse and slip, coat and frock—the frock carrying out whatever decorative idea might For instance, instead of a black cloth plain linen toweling with colored border and patch, or of gray-colored linen with oyster white hem and patch. First of all, trace the design of the basket directly from this paper onto your scrap of linen. Embroider it befors appliqueing the square onto the towel. The three large posies are French knots in two shades of pink —the lighter color being to the out- side. The dainty daisy flowers are blue, with stems and leaves of green The basket and outside blanket stitch may be either a golden brown or| black. It really doesn't matter which | you use. ! the wrist. i | we usually have a| be | suggested by the tunic blouse and slip. ! coat worn over a long pri tunic worn over a costume skirt portion of the cloth, we now have the coat of black cloth and a frock of the printed silk with a band of the black cloth at the bottom. vou gét the unbroken effe cloth when the coat is wor (Coprr When Sunbrooke Holme, a beauti- ful Georgian mans ngland, was in danger of being so0ld to a film producing company to be burned in making a movie spectacle, the City of Lincoln, nearby bought the place. Reacers To Make For You can make this towel either of Gift or Guest. After the patoh is all finished and in place, take your school ruler and draw a line on the towel, starting it a half inch from the top, out an inch, then down to the top of yo basket, then over t inche and in again, as shown in the sketch. If you embroider this line with a double row of running stitches you will add a lot to the striking design of your towel The most attractive littls towel simple and practical to m would be a lovely gift for b ter's hope chest or send church bazaar—that resist keeping it f ALLLARR LA Queer Ways. Heré 18 a little story of one or two of the queer customs of the Eskimes, the Chinese, and the Tibetans, who probably think we are the queerest folk on earth, First, let us take John Chinaman— as he lives in China. All during his {life he is thrifty, frugal, almost mis- erly. O course, he doesn't have very much, but he scrimps and saves care- fully. Why does he do this? So that he may have a wonderful funeral when he dles—a funeral so wonder- ful that all his friends and neighbors will be énvious of hjm. I can't imag- ins many boys and girls in this coun- try wanting to save money all their lives for such a purpose. Now for Alexander Eskimo, When- ever he happens to be coming home from a trip In his boat (kayak) and hits a stormy spot or corner, what does he do? Paddle havder? Go the other way? Be more careful? Not at all, he merely takes out the choicest thing in his boat, preferably a fine bit of seal blubber and heaves it over- board, so as to get the storm gods playing on his team nstead of against him. Away in far-off Tibet (north of In- dia) the people live in high and rug- ged mountains with many narrow dangerous passes which the people must go through. How does Timothy Tibet go about making these passes safer for people to go through? He puts great piles of rockd (chortens) in the middle of the pass so that it is all but impossible to go around With- out falling into the chasm. Each passing traveler, if in a re- ligious frame of mind, tosses another rock on the pile, thereby acquiring merit and “a better chance to get to heaven.” Prayer flags (mantras) are also placed in all sorts of places whers they will flutter in the wind. It is so hard to make any physical effort in Tibet, due to thin air, that almost any form of motion is accepted as a form of prayer. All of these littls prayer flags flutter merrily and thus pray for the one who has placed them. All of them have the same in- scription_on them, which, translated, reads, “The slivery dewdrop slips inte the shining sea.”