Evening Star Newspaper, January 25, 1925, Page 67

Lingerie Is Reduced to a M BY MARY MARSHALL. HERE was a time when the very mention of winter under- wear brought to mind repel- lent visions of shapeless flan- nelette nightgowns, horrible, mdhesive woolen garments that ex- tended from the neck to the ankles and the wrists; worsted petticoats, black cashmere stockings. To wear anything else was to invite pneu- monia or rheumatism. Ladlies of the old school—your grandmother, no no doubt—could point to stones in the family graveyard that bore witness 10 the untimely demise of Cousin Sue or Sister Bella, who took off her long- sleeved unders before the first of June. Anyway, practically every wo- man fn_northern climes wore those things during the mid-Victorlan era, and we are wont to think that the esent generation is the only one that has worn lighter, more at- tractive lingeri But there was a time when under- things were even mors negligible than they are now, if that 1s possible. About a hundred years ago women used to find amusement In welghing the clothes they wore, and the one who the fewest number of pounds or ounces bragged a bit Not only, in those days, did women forego the wearing of corsets; they gave up petticoats as well, and what- se they could well get along thout. They wore silk tights, and chemises of the thinnest sort—and thin frocks over that. They used to call themselves well undressed, rather than well dressed—or rather commentators on the foolishness of fashions used to do that, perhaps not the women themselves. ever wore Even in winter cotton. W then came an epidemic dubbed muslin disease—a .bad out- break of Influenza. It is said that sixty thousand persons became ill in Paris In a sin day women wore frocks was taboo. And of what was The this outbreak the women to the thin clothes of Immediately heavier clothes bec the vogue. Women donned for underwear what they called English flannels. And that episode of diaphanous underwear was closed. 3ut the pendulum has swung back again. We now wear thin and few underthings. And we have flu. But 70 doctor has the temerity nowadays to suggest English flannels as a cure for the afiction, _— present there simply is not any mode far is concerned xs fashionable lingerie o be sure, the shops that sell rts of underthings do have to take into consideration prudent souls who still cling to thelr warmer Winter underclothes, but they have nothing to do with the fashion From time out of mind February have been the months when oughts of fine underwear seemed most appropriate. In some well regu- ated households the late Winter wak considered especlally appropri- ate for the making of such things 1t was then that the family seam- stress spent weeks at time hem- ming, tucking, shirring fine white cotton and linen petticoats, chemises, ete, for the following Spring, and In those days when Lent still had a sIg- nifica the social calendar even the *“ladi of the hou found am- ple time on their hands to assist with this fine handwork. It was In these late Winter weeks that the Easter bride devoted her thoughts to her trousseau—dozens of everything, but always pure white and, if possible, handmade Nowadays women do not find so much time to devote to the making of their own dainty lingerie. But the shops supply the want with January and ors of the time attributed | alon THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. O, inimum, TWO INTERESTING BRASSIERES, ONE OF LACE, THE OTHER OF CREPE DE CHINE EDGED WITH LACE. of all quantities = sorts of alluring The lingerie set still consists in many instances of chemise, drawers, slip nightgown. The drawers with at the walst are, of course, pulled on over the chemise—then comes the slip, and that Is all there is it as far as the young girl goes. Stockings are rolled or fastened with round gar- ters, feet are slipped into pumps or strap slippers, a shake of the head and a few strokes of the brush and the shingled head is in order—and she s all dressed but her frock. Compare this with the ordeal of dressing when high-buttoned shoes were worn, when a corset.had to be adjusted and carefully laced every morning, when corset covers had to be buttoned and tled into position, when there were petticoats of sundry sorts and when a well groomed po padour required a half hour of close attention. Getting dressed in the morning has indeed been reduced to the minimum of effort, In place of the chemise drawers found in some of the soma women incline to the chemise “silk vest"—worn with bloomers. The latest preference seems to be in favor of a one-plece garment to take the place of the chemise and drawers, or bloomers. This goes by several different names. You may call it combination if you like. The dis- tinct advantage it possesses is that it eliminates the slight bulk at hips and walst caused by the drawers or and possibly elastic to and knickers. And since the trend of fashion seems to be in the direction of a closely molded silhouette, there is good reason to belleve that this one-piece garment will continue in favor. Just that combination, a slip and a pair of stockings—and the young girl of today is ready to don her frock and slippers. No wonder she's waiting for her mother, who still clings to corsets, brassieres and numerous other little accessories that are essential to her peace of mind and general air of trimness. x k ok % OR the sleeping garment pajamas and gowns seem to divide the honors, with little chance that either type will ever supersede the other entirel But though the idea of Things Which Mr. Monk, Jungle Detective. 1t was hair restorer, along with a little pluck, that enabled me to cap- ture one of the most hardened crim- inals I ever met He was a powerful lion eaten up half the police of land without even getting tion for it. tree top, down fo tree. When he was fast asleep I poured a bottle of lightning halir re- storer over his mane, and when his ane was long enough I tied the scoundrel to the tree without disturb- who had Jungle- Indiges- But I walted for him in P and one day he settled | his In a while he woke up and was furious at finding himself securely tied up and me calmly smoking my favorite pipe in front of him. He sald 1 was degrading the King of Beasts, but I promptly told him he may have been a king once, but his reign was now over. Chen he tried to get around me snooze at the foot of a|by promising to come quietly if only I would release him—he said he'd a tender scalp and couldn't bear to hava hair pulled. “No, I retored sharply; “Ill certainly not release you—you must think I'm as big an idiot s I look!" Lucy Leopard and Beauty. The vounger set of Jungleland was all exciteed! “Here, let me see it!” “It's my turn.” They were pushing and crowd- ing around something white lying on the ground. ‘“What's all the .excitement over there?” asked Grandpa Elephant as he stamped by “The girls have found a beauty magazine,” grinned Freddy Kangaroo. “Some exploring party passing through Jungleland just dropped it. They’ reading about how to fm- prove their looks. Goodness knows, some of them need it.” Little Lucy Leopard was looking heartbroken. It was no wonder. Lucy had been worried for some time be- cause she was getting fat. Every one teased her. Even Mrs. Hippo, whom the graceful Lucy just couldn’t stand, had remarked that Lucy would soon be In her class. As for Gertle Tiger, Luoy’s worst. enemy, her smile be- came broader every time Lucy was weighed Now poor Lucy had just read in the beauty book, on page 15, “Advice to the Stout,” that polka dots always made you appear larger than you really were. On the same page she had also read that stripes were just the thing to keep you looking thin Lucy glanced up to catch little Gertle Tiger grinning at her. “What's that saying about a leopard can't change its spots?” she teased. Lucy, tears in her eyes, didn't answer. She merely looked enviously at Gertle's nice, thinning stripes. “What's the matter with little Lucy Leopard? She seems to avoid eve one. She goes around by herself, looking half sick,” said Grandpa Ele- phant, several days later. “I'm sure I den’t know,” answeved |1aughed old Grandpa Elephant, Freddy Kangaroo. “Whatever is the matter, it's too bad. She always used to have such a sunny disposition.” “Mother,” said Lucy one morning, “i= it quite true that a leopard can't change its spots?” “Of course it is,” her mother an- swered, sharply. “And yvou ought to be mighty glad of it. Surely no one in the jungle is more prettily dressed.” Nevertheless, Lucy went out and rolled awbout in the mud She had read, you see, that darker shades were becoming to stout people. She came out of her mud bath gray all over, but it did her no good, for her angry mother made her go right down to the river and wash all the mud off. A few days later Lucy was down at the general store of Jungleland do- ing some shopping for her mother. Along came Gertie Tiger. “Oh, let's got welghed,” teased Gertie. She step- ped daintily on the scales and the crowd that had gathered marked her weight. Next it was shrinking Lucy's turn. She could hardly believe her eyes. She had lost nine pounds _and welghed less than Gertie Tiger. ® “Who sald spots made You fat?" to whom Lucy had told her troubles. “Lucy worrfed so much about hers that they made her thin.” ‘Watchman. “What are your qualifications for the job of night watchman?” the manager asked. “Well, sir, for one thing.” replied the applicant, confidently, “the least noise wakes me up.” 1t the moon had a son,” would the sky rocket? ‘ the pajama was borrowed from man’s wardrobe, there is nothing essen- tially mannish about the new pa- jamas. To be sure, some of them show plain straight lines. But others with low neck, little or no sleeves. AND PLEATING. IN CE! WITH NET EDGES. AT LEFT: NIGHTGOWN AND STEP-IN COMBINATION OF TINTED CHIFFON TRIMMEIDN WITH LACE, EMBROIDERY TER: DIREC- TOIRE GOWN OF TWO TONES OF PINK CREPE GEORGETTE, WITH SCALLOPED COLLAR AND LOWER EDGE. RIGH™. PAJAMAS OF PEACH CREPE DE CaINE JANUARY 25, 1925—PART 5. fancy pockets and ruffies at the an- kles are quite as feminine as the frilliest of gowns. While some women prefer pajamas of white or tinted material, others Acrosn. Serles of events of magnitude. Island in Mediterranean. Twining plants. . Like exceedingly. Solitary. Precious stone. A division of the Mishna. . One who vields. First word of the writing on the wall. Withdrew. . Obtained The president of the Sanhedrin, Famous American colonist. A close embrace. Be in debt. A second time. Set free. Bulging vessel. Vapor. Fortune, wealth (Hindu term used in speaking of divinities). Conjunction. Feline. Small nodule of earth. Ocean. . Bird of the “Arabian Nights.” . A poem. . Pertaining to a collection of Norse heroic songs. Sound uttered by certain birds. . Following. Open for discussion. . Something assumed (plural form). . Entertains with food or drink. Pen for live stock. . Part of a ladder. A twenty-fourth part. Female domestic animal. An African plant. 72. Having wings. 73. Level, uniform. or known 70. 1. 74. Large evergreen trees. 75. Designated. 76. Repose. are attracted by those show bright and unusual colors. Some of the mannish pajamas that appeal es- pecially to the school and college girl are in English broadcloth, show- 7. fllfl"//ffl l-%%%nglfiflu %?flflfl=%gIll PUZZLE NO. 1. Down. . Certain trees. Nonsense! (exclamation). . Above. . Portable covered vehicles, . Pillages. . Malt liquor . Yearly competitive meeting of Highland Association of Scot- land. Unity. Twilled woolen . Home returning. . Unclosed. Square of glass. Vehicle on runmer. Chevrotain of Ja Genus of ducks. | Electrified particle. Wooden pin. W) ker basket. Covered Inslde. | Affixed. . 2. Designating race track. Decree of the Sultan. . Saltpeter. Be sorry for. Confusion. . A very defective piece of lumber. Part of a play. | Scepter. Roman philosopher and patroit. Tdols. Agriculturist. One of an # Performed. . Salver. Formula. Enough (used poetically). 3. Be delirious 63. God of war. 64. Fast of 40 days. 67. According. to (used terms). 68. Male sheep. . Devoured. staff. a famous English ~ient Italian race. in cookery | gowns ing wide bright stripes, and all sorts of printed cotton materials are used. You may have scen, may even pos- sess of the new sashed night- e of these of flfifl& EREE TR\ weave fabric with diagonal lines. . Hoard. Dried grass. Anger. Pastry. . Red cosmetic . Title of address Some. Small live coal. . Small child. To 1ift: Shinbone. Novel. . Tribe of . Friend. 6. Away from. . Definite article. . Attempt 2. Wharves. Above. Collection of ‘sayings.: Part of a Mohammedan household. To lament. Israel. Answer to Yesterday's Puzzlé. crepe de pleated | other chine—attached to a sleeve- 1 lace yoke—! a ribbon that ties it at a low waistline with a bow of the ribbon at the left side. An- most interesting mode is scant Cross-Word Puzzles That Will Test Your Skill 7 E 7 e 1] Zid il Tnsect. Bird. . Beast of burden. " Observe. . By way of. 9. Negative conjunction. | Sweet watery part of milk. Musical Instrument. Row. . Remnant. . Watering place Vessel for washing. kil Unit of length. To leave out. Vulgar form of gertleman. eck letter. . To bind. 2. Garment worn Singly To barter. Roman date. Preposition. Suitable. Legal claim on property. | Prefix meaning by. . Chief. Country in Asia. . To haul Chopped. . Either. . Behold. Couldn’t Be Helped. Jim—No getting around it—thare's one person you have to take vour hat off_to. Tim—Who's that? by Arabians. Jim—The barber. In the Jungles. Sally—I had a wild lunch today. Tilly—What did you have? Sally—Animal cookies Not Quite. Teacher—What are pauses, Mary? Mary—Thay grow om cat: |atter dark. and further carries out the Directoire note in a ribbon girdle placed well above the normal waistline—also tied at the left side. 7 But Is More Attractive Than Ever ary enough taste to make a steady demand for pure white linen or cot- ton lingerie, finely embroidered or trimmed with lace. These pieces are for all the world like the pieces that women included in thelr trousseaus 15 or 20 years ago, save that they are cut on the most up-to-date lines One exquisite set chosen by a recent bride was of washable satin with lace and very fine white embroidery on_the satin No one color or tint has It &l its own way in the matter of lingerie Varfous tints known as flesh are chosen, season in and season out, by some women, while there are &i- ways women who if left to their own devices will select underthings of a declded pinkish cast. They are women who would not find a bed- room complete without a rose shade on_the bedside lamp. Green seems to be gaining ground and there are many sets of orchid Repellent as the idea of black lin- gerle may seem to some women, there seems to be a steady demand for it, and black pajamas are In spe- cial vogue. A pair of black silk and lace pajamas is the highly prized garment of more than one youns woman. (Copyright, 1925.) A Vain Penman. T is sald that Tomkins, the brated writing master of St School, in London, was the vaines of all penmen. Through life h dreamed that penmanship was one of the fine arts and that a writing master should be seated with his peers in the academy. He bequeath- ed to the British Museum his opus magnum, a copy of Macklin's Bib profusely embellished with the beautiful and varied work of and, as he conceived that both the workman and the work would be darling objects with posterity, he left something immortal with the legacy his fine bust, by Chantrey—unaccom- panied by which the museum was not to receive the unparalleled gift When Tomkins applied to have his bust made the great sculptor gener- ously abated s hing from his usual price, and, considerate of the feelings of the writing master, treated him as a brother artist. This was undoubtedly the proudest day Tomkins' life. An eminent artist and wit, looking at this fine bust of Tomkins, has ex- claimed, “And this man died for want of a dinner” Which remark was in a measure true. The penman had long that he stood degraded in the scale of zenius by not being received at the academy at least in the of engravers The next approach to academic honors he concefved would be that of ap- pearing as a guest at the annual din ner. But unfortuna the academy persisted in considering Tomkins as a writing master, and, in spite of many stratege: and remonstrances, he never received one of the coveted in- vitations. The vain man never ce plore the failure of his hopes and allowed the disappointment to pres upon his spirits until it affected his health. In spite everything, the luckless calligrapher died without having dined at the acader cele- Paul's pen ased to de- Store Within Store. REMARKABLE feat of engin ing has been accomplished in th construction of an addition to a Phil- adeiphia department store. A 14-story structure has been erected inside the original building in the space origi- nally devoted to a rotu The addi-“7 tion was bullt entirely through an 8-foot door, which was the only open- ing used for the introduction of steel beams, machirery and all the other cer- There are still women of reaction- material used Are of Interest to the Younger Readers: Try These Two “Stunts” to Test Your Strength. About this time of the year there are usually som: unpleasant days which do their best to make us feel rotten and keep us indoors. Now these two little stunts which 1 am telling you about today will give you & thing or two to try sometime when you are wondering what to do with Yourself. . The first stunt consists of trving to get arpund the back of a chair without touching the floor or without tipping the chair over. For this stunt I advise you to get an old kitchen chair—one that is put together like the old pig pen on grandpa’s farm and can stand a few bumps, scratches or falls It really isn't so hard to get around the back of the chair (as shown In the illustration), but you simply must learn to keep your balance and move easily if you are going to complete the circuit successfully. There are about eight or ten ways of getting around successfully. See how many of them you can figure out. After you get to be really good, in making the circuit, try to make it “feet first"— no, it isn't so simple. The second stunt is a bit of a strong man exhibition. It calls for three chairs, a budding “strong man” and an assistant. The three chalrs are placed as shown. The strong man's head barely rests on one of them; his ankles barely rest on the other. Some one should brace both of these end chairs. At the start there is a supporting chair under the middle of the strong man’s back, but when he says “Ready,” this is slowly glided out from under him. The idea is to see Whether the boy who Is on the chairs has strength enough to support himself by his head and ankles when the middle chair is removed The whole secret of this stunt is to keep the body quite rigid as the chair is being taken out from under the middle of the back. If you wish to make the stunt really difficult, let the boy who is playing “strong man” take the chair out from under himself * with his own hands, pass the chair upward—across his body, and put it under his back on the other side. 5 Well, try 'em out. They'll give you something to up your spare en-.” ergy on, that's certain —CAP'N ZYB, Killing Ghosts By a New Trick. T've been down in the country kill- ing off ghosts,” grinned Red Fuller, as one of the boys asked him where he’d been over the week end. Killing ghosts! Say, tell us about 1 was visiting my Uncie ' Porter, down near Mayview. He has two kids, both younger than T—a ‘ boy and a girl. I'd been down there a couple of times before during this Winter, and I was considerably wor- ried about those kids. There seemed to be something wrong somewhere. They were both scared of their own shadows. Couldn’t get them outdoors They were nervous as cats, and jumped at the least sound. “I dldn’t think they were natural cowards, and 1 felt there was some- thing queer behind it all. And I found out what the trouble was. They had a hired girl there who was just filling my poor cousins full of blood- curdling ghost stories. She just loved to scare them. Of course, my uncle didn’t know what was going on, and as the kids' mother was dead, nobody stopped that girl from scaring them. “It made gne mad, 1 can tell you. I made up my mind that the next time I went down there I was going to teach her a good lesson. I planned carefully just how I was going to do it. “Luck was with me. - When T went down this last week end I got there Saturday morning and found that the girl had gonme to a funeral and wouldn’t be back until late that eve-' ning. That gave me the whole day to do what I had planned. “When evening came she returned Uncle Porter, it happened, had gone into town. I kept out of sight, so she didn't know I was there. Then the kids got her to come into the living. room, as we had planned. They sat down on the davenport. The only.: light in the room was that from.a. small floor lamp beside the daven- port. That left the rest of the place black, and gave me a chance to sneak £ in. % “Sure enough, she started telling ~ them some wild ghost story. I walt-" ed. She came along to a place where she was saying, ‘And then the people heard a strange and terrible sound—' “Well, just at that point she heard a strange and terrible sound herself Suddenly out of the air came a queer, screeching sound, and then a wom- ~ an’s voice, sounding a long, high wail. It broke off sharpl. “You should have heard that girl vell. She jumped up and ran out of the place. She dashed into the house across the road where a cousin af hers lived, and din't come back until morning. But she'd learned her les- son. “You see, Tuckily I'd put a radio in, and tuned in on a soprano solo.” SR n ‘Do you use India’ ink?” “No, I patronize home industrieg™