Evening Star Newspaper, October 18, 1931, Page 57

THE SUNDAY § TAR, WASHINGTON, D C, OCTOBER 18, 1931—PART Five O’Clock Frock Features Sheer Crepes, Satins and Laces Black Gowns Remain First in Popularity. New Sleeve Interest in Formal Daytime Attire—Suitability of Hats and Shoes Is Important. < and marcasite claspe are the most pop- ular afternoon bags at the moment. Velvet, too, is a good materiAl. Small pouches or envelope shapes are im-| portant, and it is good fo remember, when choosing the formal bag, that it should not be too large, only large enough to contain the lipstick, purse, handkerchief and compact, the cigarette case and lighter, without Wwhich hardly any one would dare to stir abroad The large handbag, into which any amount of junk may be loaded, is only for morning and street use. ‘The old-fashioned gold and silver mesh bags are again being carried by smart women. and b>aded purses also are well liked. ALLING gowns they were termed in the '90s. but now they are Sunday night dresses, cocktail frocks, or little dinner dresses— according to the vocabularies of their wearers. Regardless of name they are dresses of a type much in demand 4n American social life. Consequently & great many of them are of Amer- iean design. Despite all the talk of velvets, buy- ers in New York shops report that the materials in greatest demand for dresses of this type are silks such as canton crepe, crcpe marocain, satins and the so-called semi-sheer crepes. | crepe roma, crepe moravian and the like. These materials are good used alone, and also when combined in a variety of ways with lace. Black satin is of greater importance than might have been expected, con- | sidering the pace at which it was mak ing its way last August. One usually expects those styles that get an early start and run swiftly to finish easly, but sgtin has not proved this to be true Velvets are not to be ignored. and the velvets with trimmings of metal cloth are high in favor. ~Worthy of consideration, too. is the fur-trimmed formal gown. but that this combina- tion has been seen to such an extent in the semi-formal gown and the tai- Jored velvet dress may in part explain the reason that dresses for luncheon, bridge and late afternoon affairs in combinations of silk and lace are pre- ferred by many. * ox % % SLEEVES are of extreme importance %9 It seems that every type of sleeve has been introduced into the afternoon dress, which is, after all. a very good place for the large and fanciful sleeve. Tucks, tiers, ruffies and puffs, all are in evidence, and invariably there is fullness. The placing of the fullness appears to be 3 matter of no great style importan: It may be at the Wrist, the elbow or the shoulder. Underslecves off>r opportunity to introduce color contrasts and various lacy lingerie effects which have been fully utilized by gners. It is surprisin to see the number ©f women who remain faithful to black in a season when there has been so much talk of color. Black is most in demand, they told us at one of Fifth avenue's smart shops, followed by the greens and the wine shades. Brown is fourth on the list for this type of dress, and there is beginning to be a demand for gray and purple shades. * K ok % IT behooves the well dressed woman to be ever so careful in the choice of her hats to wear with these dresses, At first glance it would seem that the very npicturesque hat with swirling ostrich plumes would b» the perfect accompaniment to the formal aftor- noon frock. And it is true that if it is to be worn anywhere it should be worn then. But these very elaborate hats have been much overdone this 8eason, one sees them in the subway at 8:30 in the morning and worn with wool sports frocks at lunch time. And. having seen them thus. the smartest ¥omen are dropping them from the list of costume possibilities and buying instead hats of more tailored type, but formal because they are made of lustrous. expensive looking fabrics and trimmed discreetly with ribbon bows, With tiny tightly curled ostrich tips or with a veil which droops bewitchingly over the eves. Thus, wi the perfect hat to wear with the formal dress is entirely formal too. it is not blatantly £0. It forms an accompaniment to the dress but never eclipses either the dress, its wearer or the occasion of its wearing, >N % JEVVELRY holds an important place in the afternoon mode in this season of afternoon formality. Pearls are, as al- ways, in the best of taste, especially with black dresses. But since your handbag for formal wear is more than ' likely to have a silver and marcasite clasp it is very smart to impart some- thing of the ensemble feeling to vour accessories and wear a pendant of neck- lace or marcasite. The best of these are in delicate designs, almost cob- ‘webby in appearance. #nd are effective against the. dull surfaced fabrics of which so many of the afternoon frocks are fashioned. Marcasite braceiets and clips are other j ¢ pieces weil liked for afternoon wear. i iede and kid are pre-eminently the leathers for foolwear to accompany dresses for late afternoon. Suede shoes may rely upon an unobtrusive trim- ming note of kidskin or patent leather, or may have small rhinestone or mar- casite buckles. Huge cut-steel buckles also are smart on opera pumps, and if you like this type of shoe, the after- noon is the time to wear it. Antelope purses trimmed with silver New Blouses Are Smartly Lovely ‘The new blouses are so exceedingly lovely that every woman must want at least one, And if one, why not two? Or three? Or four or more? ‘They are least reasonable ones that are attractive can be found. Some of them, of course, cost a lot and can only be bought by the woman with a generous dress al- lowance. Tre weman who can sew cleverly can make them for herself, and so cut down their cost greatly—especially in the more expensive sorts. You know it is always more of a saving fb make expensive clothes than cheap ones. You can buy cheap ready-made clothes £o very reasonably that it hardly pays, sometimes, to make them. But it costs a great deal less to make a blouse of expensive material at home than to buy one. that we have mentioned is made of metal cloth. The new metal cloth is sheer and soft. and lends itself admira- bly to blouses. The blouse in question is made with long. tight slecves. with a little puff at the top, set into low arm- holes. The neck is draped slightly. a sort of cowl drapery. Trere is a nar- Tow belt. with a little jeweled buckle, at_a rather high waistline The new blouses are made with a fairly close-fitting _section below waist. Sometimes it is crossed over and open at the front. Sometimes it i seamed up and pulled on over the head. Usually there is a belt. Though some- times the pinching-in at the waistline is effected by fine tucks. White satin blouses are still in good style, though tea, eggshell, oyster are also much used—the off-white shades So are tan and peach. These satin blouses are sometimes made with turn- back rever collars, and sometimes a searf of the same material passes around the neck and is pulled buttonhole of each rever. most daintily made, are also worn with Autumn suits. Some of the new blouses have three- quarter length sleeves, some shorter sleeves—and some are sleeveless, Are Choice Smart Women Pumps Of Pumps are certainly to the fore this Winter. To be sure, there are smart oxfords for the woman who prefers them—so that she need not by any means look dowdy. These oxfords are cut on shape- ly lines and carrv out all the new de- tails in fabric and detail But by far the greatest number of the new shoes are pumps. ‘They are made with high. slender heels, though it is quite possibie to find them with heels that are not exaggerat- edly high Dull black suede is used for many smart shoes, with fine lines of grosgrain ribbon to meke the shoes look slender and shapely. These shoes are worn with black clothes and sometimes wi of other colors, though these. like almost every other model vou may pick out. come in the so-called “coat colors”— brown and green. Black suede shoes are also trimmed with patent leather, in bleck—and when these pumps are made in brown and green—and sometimes maroon—suede, The seated figure shows a dress of fine black lace combined with black crepe roma. The full pufied sleeves of lace, caught into a deep tight cuff of crepe, are a popular mode at the moment. The jacket dress on the right is of black vel- vet and black lace. Wing sleeves of lace are a feature of the jacket, while the dress beneath has tiny ecap sleeves. not exorbitant in price—at One of the very expensive blouses the | oygh a bound Batiste blouses of the finest quality, | = ~ These three dresses are the kind that smart women are wearing to Iuncheon, to matinees and to tea in this season of formality in after- The dress at the left of the group is of brown flat crepe, with a top and full flowing sleeves noon attire. of brown lace. the trimmings gleaming kid. Alligator is a good deal used as a trimming kid on $he new shoes, and most attractive combinations are made with it. It is used for tips at the toes and for the heels of some very smart black suede shoes. Some of the new shoes have Colonial buckles of leather to match the shoe, set on with ribbon and with a self- colored buckle. These shoes often come are of self-color in Iin bronze as well as in black and the more usual colors. Sleeves Give New Note Smart Women Like T | hem, and Dressmakers Are Only Too Glad to Devise Them in luny Attractive PhflSCSAI)Opulfll‘i(y i ilver spirals of another necklace w BY MARY MARSHALL. (CHANGES in fashion amount to more “ than a mere state of mind. True they reflect our whims and moods. but there are deep underlying reasons at the base of most of them. If one but had time to delve deeply into the matter it would be interesting to discover the rules that govern sleeves. For more than a decade after the war we simply didn't take sleeves into consideration at all. Dresses either. had them or they didh't. They were usually long. straight and plain or else there weren't any slecves at all. And yet almost from the beginning of that era one heard pre- ,dictions. ~ Fachion authorities here and there foretold the revival of interest in ornate sleeves and now and then an important dressmaker wou'd launch an interesting sleeve which attracted some comment and then passed into oblivion. But for some interesting reason sleeves are important this season. One might say, in fact, that there have been the past few months than in anything else. ‘The important business of bring- more changes in sleeves within | ing waistlines back to normal had been accomplished 6 or 12 months ago Longer skirts were no longer a novelty The really significant thing that had to be done was to make sleeves more interesting and more individual | And the significant thing is not that dressmakers have created a variety of picturesque sleeves—they would have been willing to do that some time ago if we had given them the slightest en- couragement. What really counts is | that we are all of us ready and eager to wear them. One French fashion reviewer speaks of the return of two old-time elegances | and then refers to picturesque sleeves | and “brides” Brides. you know, are the same thing as sncods, and snoods | are no more nor less than the ribbon | bands about the hair that added so much to the picturesque quality of | fashions in the eighteenth" century. | There are charming little velvet toques | for“;vomng wear. Made with bands of thi sort consisting of roses in two | colors for all the yorld like the fats | that the eighteenth century Watteau | | liked to paint. PARIS, October 8. Four-Piece Costumes In”}\‘Iew Paris Showing the links. To wear to and from the moravia elongated at | | | twice the length of the back. | ssured. of sition, ’I‘HER!: is a new Parisian dressmak- | ciub there is the smartest of light green ing house which gives every indi- | jackets, which fastens on the left cation of being ope of those phenom- ' shoulder with one of those two-toned enal successes which happen once in a | bakelite clasps so popular here, and long time and seem to justify the old | drops in an amusing one-sided rever saying about the perfect mouse-trap When the coat is not closed. and the beaten path. Vera Borea is | White corduroy georgette makes the | | the head of this new house. and she is | blouse of a severely tailored black suit | | confining herself to creating daytime |and the ends of the scarf yoke slip | and evening clothes. for both town and | through slits in the jacket at the left | | gountey. She does not like formal aft- | to tie outside, giving the one relieving | | ernoon dresses. and so she does not | touch of color. This same idea is used in | ‘make them. And by the same token | @ long. dark blue ensemble when the she must like the sports, street and eve- | small half-handkerchief scarf of white ning things she creates, for she does breitschwanz is knotted through the them very well. | same sort of slit at the back of the | Her business is tucked away in the coat collar. This coat is form fitting | Russ¥Artois. and her collection is not | and full length. except in front, where | large, but instead of trying to remem- |it ends abruptly at the waist, letting | ber what was good in a very big col- | the side gores go nonchalantly on their | lection. one is quite as embarrassed by | way to the bottom of the skirt. The | | remembering almost every outfit she | dress is a perfectly simple princess af- | showed as something one would like tq | fair, fastening under the arm, and cut write about. There is an attractive four-piece out- fit, for instance, with a matching hat. | The “long coat is a black and brown tweed mixture, a color combination | favored by the Comtesse Borea. with & | skirt of “a special Italian tweed in | brown with just an odd nubbly effect of black here and there. Then there is | & black jacket which comes to the hip bone and is knitted in a chevron pat- | tern, and bereath it a blouse of cne of the new lace jerseys. which seems to be horizontal lines held together with something like a tatting stitch in | orange. a black and white galalith clasp. The top coat has a wide brown leather belt that shows .outside only across the back panel and then goes through slits to clasp around the waist under the coat. Another four-plece costume has the | skirt, with its deep inverted pleat at | center fropt, and a plain back, and the | little monkey coat which buttons down | the left side, in a reversible nubbly ma- terial, black outside and green inside. The knitted vest is of matching em- erald green, and there is a scarf that tucks inside the Vest, half of the green | side of the suit material and half of seal. The tiny hat, pointed over one | eye. is also of the green with a 3-inch | band of the fur all around. | A new notion in golf ensembles has a dark brown skirt and blouse and waist length playing jacket with a | ribbed finish at the bottom and on the | collar and cuffs. 'The material looks | like a very loosely woven wool, but it is in reality rather firm, and in a square pattern. The brown jacket is buttoned straight down the front and designed to give all the nécessary freedom for It fastens close around the | throat with a little turnover collar with | |In four pieces. but fitted so cleverly | that the mannequin seems to have been poured into it. | Another amusing scarf is an oval of crocheted wool, about five inches wide, Which 1s looped around the throat three times, For more formal wear, there are de- lightful pajamas. pajama dresses and gowns. One of the last mentioned is in | rich ecru lace, molding the body to the | knees, where it escapes in godets. The belt is of brown grosgrain ribbon with green &k across the front, and ties in | {® prim bow in the back. There is & bracelet like it for one wrist. The out- fit is completed by a tiny coat of brown velvet, Another frock of pink ribbon has a fichu, and snug fingerless mitts ending just over the elbow, of brown shadow lace. Thep there is the fancy-colored satin costume, skirt iff front and trou- sers in the back, which really is a tre- mendous godet, with a sheath top com- pleting it above the waist, one of the most beautifully cut garments of the season. A black velvet pajama cos- tume, decidedly princess and cut in four sections, had a yoke of white marocain whichsended in flowing anggl sleeves which are either wrapped around the arms or tied back or front as a sash. A pajama_in” bright rust color with gold figures had tiny tab pockets of the same material in green, both back and front as well % at the slit sides at the an- kles. The green stuff makes the sim- ple collarless five-eighths length coat with rather wide elbow sleeves. A word must also be saild about the amusing costume jewelry. A }:llln gold chain had gradusted loops of suede in green to match a green outfit and the ~ Center, a dress of beige georgette crepe trimmed with wide bands of flving squirrel. The tight undersleeves are removable. is a gown of sheer bro and brown silk the front and solid plaques n lace. tucked Here crepe bodice is made over gold lame. sides by A choker of colored composi- tion stood up close around the throat and matched a belt of the same compo- D.L M. Opera Pumps. Opera pumps are still favored. 2 strapped model is chosen the straps should be quite wide. For daytime wear to place flat against the wall, trere is an increasing interest in rather don’t come strictly under the low cut oxfords. : S TS EE L S |Patou Features Pelerines and Capes in Supple- f mentary Opening — Importance of Fur | Accessories by Parisian Designer. ! PARIS, October 8. | models she approves of ruches of ribbon JFOUR openings each year no longer | in the back, glving that pleasantly up- ara enough for ~the designers, |tilted effect. One hat, in black taupe Patou recently showed for the first time | felt, is to have five rows of these ruches | a whole new series of fur scarfs, or |across the back in ruby-colored ribbon, | pelerines or wraps, whichever you prefer | With a picot edge. | to call them. For they are really a| Toques also she sees as exceedingly | cross betwefn scarfs and wraps, that smart, particularly when the fullness | “something different” which always pro- | which might cover the other side of the | duces sygh a flutter. All of the new | head is gathered into a tie of seme | models have one thing in common, | quite different material and color, as in | whether they be made cf ermine, a hat of green velvet tied with & mrp | breifschwanz, or Persian lamb. They | of white breitschwanz. She is com- | all have a narrow little collar which | pleting these hats with the severest of | wraps closely around the throat and will | Jittle scarfs, often of the fur and always be rezlly warm when icy winds blow. | of the trimming material, which slip Most of the collars are straight bands ' through a slot at the center front and fastened on the side with two or three | extend even with the ears. fur-covered buttons. | | Grely Dabija belleves thst there is | ggoThe Test cf the fur plece may be & | going to be a great rage for fur material straight piece that descends from this gng even for the nubbly woolens that | collar band straight down the center |jor Tice' caracui when they are dved | back and is held in place by the belt in colors which never can be found in of the coat or suit—they are designed | g (% PSR MOVEr 8T DO U e {to be worn with both—or it may 80|ghe prefers tones like burnt crange or down the front instead, in which cese | g PrI‘EEs tores flke butnt crange or it is supple enough to drape like ma- | (IRETRIC BYOCR. dosigns to be th terial, but still slips under the belt cf ! - | the garment which it adorns. |, An attractive modified derby had a | A different version of this front plas- | brim that rolled up a little more at tre tron effect fastens at the center front left side than at the right and haél its with the collar band arranged so that band of narrow velvet ribbon tied in a it may turn back like the wings of a demure bow at the center front. Di- man’s dress colar, and there is a single | Tectly in the back, but extending only | rever jutting out from the right hand to the height <f the crown, was an Hde of the perfectly straight front, Orange and brown ostrich feather like Another variaticn, in caroub Persian | & tny, stiff interrogation point. Rather lamb, has the collar band fastening with StUT feather fancies. chicken and a little made bow at the center front w:nl‘:!rnl feathers are her favorites for descends around the shoulders in A ey o elerine with the back _Another original ensemble is in plaid | piece descending to slip under the belt. taffeta, in the clan patterns, the hat One of the knowing milliners to whom built & bit on the Scotch cap idea some- the really fashion-wise women about What like the army fatigue hat and town are going is Grely Dabija. She | Orh with & severe st ck of the same is just beginning her new collection and | taffeta plaid looped over in front. was kind enough to show us new de-| Not only are the Fall race meetings | signs and hats now being made which | beginning to blossom out with the lisle have not yet been shown. She believes | and cctton knit gloves which extend very firmly in the shallow-cr wned hat | over the sleeves with a lace stitch o with the narrow brim, dipping over one | the knuckles and again at the wris eve and showing the hair on the op- | but they are frequently seen in various posite side, but she frels that the ex- | colors at tea time. They have been treme Empress Eugenie hat with its| noticed in white with a black outfit, in irailing feathers i< a thing of the past | green with a brown ensemble and green for women who pretend to any chic | hat and in dark brown with one of the Beneath the nzrrow brims of her | very popular cafe au lait coats Mode Comes From Ugliness Occasional Tables Provide Comfort ()CCASIONAL tables, they are called, those smalil tsbles that may be moved from corner to corner, from room to room, to make life more com- fortable and our houses more attractive. They come in every variety, for use- fulness and appearance. In all finishes from early Arnerican maple to the most | Were at their ugliest, and from suck modern French enamel. In all shapes inspiration they have contrived to pro- from the tiny three-cornered tables duce a set of fashions of unusual charm | that tuck inconspicuously but usefully | o4 peauts. : < fal ma- into corners to nests of Colonial ma- | "7 WMUT o nions— hogany or Crinese lacquer. The thing about them that is best the clothes and hats and wraps that is that they take up little space and | women wore in the days of the Em- g v U the e = that they add a hundredfold to the| ' o lorl B Con TET L et comfort and convenience of a room. | _It's fun shopping for these little ta- | bound and trammeled by an age of re-, bles. The shops are full of them, so pression. of inhibitions. They were shopping is the best way to get them, uzly. Women wore deforming corsets for the variety displayed gives you Hoops distorted and hid the graceful | ideas you can't get otherwise lines of the body. A prudish attitude | For ‘the living room ihere are nests on things in general hampered clothes of small tables that may be used for as much as manners | tea o solitaire. for smoking kit or sew- | But from that ugly background the ing basket modern _dressmaker. who is really a \’OL' cannot make a silk purse out of & sow’s ear—but the French dress- makers have done something very much like it. They have gone for inspiration to periods when in many ways fashions These come in every pe- The | riod, including the most modern of the great artist. has chosen and taken those modern—black or silver enamel, three details. those essentials tbat are beau- low stands tucked one under the other, tiful and remodeled them into what we with a rounding line from the base of call Empress Eugenie fashions— becom- one leg, oyer the table top, down to ing. alluring. charming the base of the othar. The newer late nineteenth century Chinese lacquered stands in nests are | fashions, too. have been evolved in the most attractive. In red or green or same way. From the rather ugly origi- black they fit into almost any color nals of 1880, 1890. even 1900—tight scheme. stiff fachions if ever there were any— | There are reacing stands of many tre dressmaker artist has evolved clothes | sorts—one a one-legged stand that | of real beauty rests against the arms of the chair. and From the dav of the bustle, the tig! | serves beautifully to hold the book. high collar: the long. stiff skirt, h: | paper or magazine, or to make a com- come the lovely adaptations of those fortable place to spread cards out for fashions that we like so well today. In If | solitaire. a period of freer feeling. of emancipa- Console tables. semi-circular tables | tion from corsets, from collars, from thaps | pruderv and false modesty, we have ead of | worked out what was beautiful and de- occasional tables. For once placed they | sirable in those fashions into some- are left in position. And they are | thing new and modern, | usually a part of the foundation fur-] nishing of the room, a1y way. | Kerosene Cleans. Kerosene is indispensable at cleaninz Any rusted bit of metal may b= or the kerosene mav be ! 3 Graham Bread. | Mix two cupfuls of grahai r | time. & s pos soaked in it. | ful of white flour. three teaspoonfuls of | poured over the surface and left there | with one-third cupful of sugar, one cup- baking powder and one teaspoonful of | for an hour or so. The nickle pipirz salt. Add two scant cupfuls of sweet in the bathroom thit sometimes turns milk and beat well. Put into a buttered | & dull green color that resist applica- pan and bake in a moderate oven for tlons of soap and water and scouring about 45 minutes. | powders should be well soaked in kero- sene. A cloth dipped in kerosene may be wound around the pipe and left there for some time. A little kerosene in the water used for washing windgws pre- vents streaking when the glass is rubbed dry. Left, dress of black erepe meravia, with embroidery of tiny gold. hlue and white beads. The en¥emble on the right, of coarse thread lace in a violet shade, has a jacket which comes below the waistline and a sash of two shades of violet crepe