Evening Star Newspaper, November 30, 1930, Page 63

-Wearable Gifts Now Chosen May Solve Christma Gloves and Stockings Are Appropriate, If Givers Can Obtain Information as to Needs — Jewelry Suited to Every Age. Old-Fashioned Types to Be Worn With Picturesque Dresses. BY MARY MARSHALL. O you are planning to give her something to wear? What shall it be? That depends, to begin with, on whether you already know her sizes, or can learn them srranged Christmas giving that makes | the gift an old story by December 25. ood fortune you know the size you buy three. * kK K you choase service weight, silk net, silk chiffon with lace clocks, silk and wool or a fine quality lisle depends on whether this girl you have in mind is 15 or 50, fond of outdoor sports or interested chiefly in dancing. If you are not quite certain of her taste in stockings, remember that a good quality sheer silk stocking of one of the darker, duller beige tones s ity sure to be acceptable. g gloves are still something of a luxury and you may be sure that almost any girl of your acquaintance would be glad to find a pair tucked away in her . Sixteen-button length white @lace gloves are conventional for formal evening occasions, but many women m suede and present custom sanc- them even for most important oe- § easions. Dark evening gloves have, of course, enjoyed great favor, but white is a better v inexpensive ' costume ven the women 15, rubies and jons, 144 L e evening dress other to the side of the belt. (Copyright, 19%0.) Adoption of Right Reducing System Half the women one meets nowadays | will tell you that they are reducing, and -~ @ good many of the other half will tell you that they intend to reduce within a week or two. There are women mani- ly overweight who,go right on re- ducing month after month and still re- main as plump and rotund as ever, un- tl finally you come to the conclusion that reducing cannot do much good and that all the so-called thinning diets are ‘worthless. ‘The trouble really is that women &Illt much confidence in certain unim- t phases of the diet and overlook essential requirements. They care- | fully eat all the things included in the diet and reward themselves for good be- havior by indulging now and then in| $*things not included in the diet. gEe g t to adopt a reducing sys- be most likely to k shown some re- slices you eat each day, reducing the number of lumps of Ilfl.l' you put in your coffee or tea, reducing the amount of candy and sweets you eat and the amount of rich g5 you put on salads and lunch- eon sandwiches. Let us say that you habitually take two lumps of sugar in tea and coffee, W and that you eat a piece of bread at you will be able to & surprising number of pounds. New Sheets. the most precise housewifes indulge in hand-hemmed and there is small economy i@ | machine hemming them at home, Ho ApJrs: figure out the problem for your- . Price sheets ready hemmed of a | eertain size and quality. Then price | the same material by the yard and fig- | e'netl&’ what you would save by em at home. If you have a deal of time on your hands may find that it is worth while; if not, .a-'fll probably buy them ready hem. ‘The housewife who is really interest- od in )u"r‘ h:‘n:;ehold probllelms marks new shee! very small indelible marks to indicate the date of urchme. this way she can com) the len; umethnlhuuddlg::mquauiu fully measure your beds before sheets and never try to econ- by getting sheets that are too or too narrow. Handbagsj :;u-nw:mm daytime and evening both. For ; they are made princy) of leather of nm m of them are , giving an ‘im- of really beautiful simplicity. them have buckles of marca- site, some have buckles of metal. These buckles are attached to straps that ef- have their owner's ittle {ame on ‘hrysoprase and carnelian used, on the more expensive Initials and {‘c‘rz clasps, THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, NOVEMBER 30, 1930—PART THREE, I stripes diagonally placed in to @ pair of skating shoes. s Present Styles Encour- age Use of Orna- Types of Beauty Con- sidered — Treatment of Bob for Evening Is Suggested. ‘The long-short bob and long hair both encourage hair ornamgnts this ‘Winter. If you haven't already p least one shining some! your crowning glory whes to loflr Ld y §0 parti- fled, you should lock to your style laurels. You can suit your type and style in this business of dressing up the hair for a grand party. If you happen to be very demure- looking and still wear your hair bobbed and yet have a yen to be very elegant of an evening, you can get one of the scintillating headbands that reach from ear to ear, across the top of the hair, with some hair for bangs in front and all your hair in the back sticking up around it. It is a sweet and very ;‘;gmy Wway to dress up your bob for evening. If you have a long-short bob and still like the idea of a headband, you can ‘wear it from temple to temple, with just a little hair below it in front, at about the line your new Winter hats hit r hair. lese come in colored stones, usually, turquoise, imitation rubles, emeralds or topazes. Of course, they have some chief with a printed design of bird or flower in the corner. ments — Individual | For the child there are always lovely bits of wearing apparel that make suitable Christmas gifts. some of them. A furtrimmed coat for the little girl or, if your pocketbook is at the other end of the scale a handker- For the small boy there is anything from a necktie—and right colors still please the small boy—to a leather windbreak or a pair of skates attached 1If you have a long-short bob and the ends are just long enough to fluff out at the nape of the neck, there are some | enchanting back-of-t| ead bands of | jewels that stretch from the back of one | ear across the nape of your neck to the | back of the other ear. These are very tricky, often come in the form of the links of old-fashioned slave bracelets and can be had in such elegant form as | platinum set in small diamonds. | Since these are over the head of most | folks, there are others to consider that are quite as pretty. Tiny stones in‘a mul&mde of colors, set in sliver. They give the impressions of a kaleidoscopic view of all kinds of gems. And they are md:eontlve with a whit- “gess or a one. A third kind of hair ornament is the handsome barette that you attach to your hair above one ear. This is made for the girl who parts her hair on one side. e barette holds the longer side in place perfectly and adds its quota of elegance, too. This kind of pin is apt to be in the form of an arrow, a spear, an elongated oval or same other geometric design, usually several times as long as it iIs wide. Usually this type of pin has a sl.ngle color in it, or is made of pearls and rhinestones. If your hair is long enough to wear in a snood at the back, the world is yours as far as ornaments are con- cerned. You can grow a bit Oriental and wear a carved ivory comb in your black tresses and look pretty dangerous- ly exotic. Or there is nothing the mat- ter with a& modified Spanish comb. Quite different and a lot more 1930, however, is the dainty winged pin of brilliants made to pin into the hair above the knot. The loveliest of these taper off to brilliants scattered in between. White Bunny Wrap Solves Problem of Evening Covering. Produced in Three Lengths, With Vari- ous Kinds of Collars. Black Velvet Coat. ‘The short jacket is no longer a mat- ter of controversy. It is here to stay— at least long enough to make the pur- chase of one of these smart little wraps worth while. Usually they are not v expensive, 850 you need not stop to asl ;l’};ezlher it will still be in good style in The belted lapin jacket of beige or rosewood tone is appropriate for all save the most formal daytime occasions and is just the thing to wear with a jumper dress or separate tweed skirt and blouse. Then there are short belted jackets of kid caracul within the reach of almost any purse, that are ap- yropn-u for every day, even of the lormal sort. The white bunny wrap that has solved the problem of evening covering for so many women continues to be decidedly smart in spite of its wide popularity. ‘These bunny wraps are quite cheap— if you wish to buy the cheap kind.' You can also buy them in expensive quality. But be it sald right here that the cheap ones are very becoming, very attractive. They come in three lengths — hip length, finger-tip length, knee length. ‘They are lined, sometimes with white, sometimes with color, Some of them are made with high, standing collars. Some are made with wide rolling col- lars. Some are made with , tri- angular turn-back rever collars. Some of them are held together at the waistline. them are . Some of them are tied by means straps slipped through big slits. If you do not like short wraps for evening you can, of course, buy the longer sort. Equally lovely. And many women, quite apart from the matter of exg:nu, like the short kind better. { me Of the expensive wraps are | trimm- . with collar and cuffs of fine, dark hwes, Some of them are made long sleeved. Some are made short sleeved. | Of course, there are evening coats that are neither short nor white. lma ones of richly colored velvet. Or black velvet. One of black velvet mv:g quality, fitting elosely sbout and flaring away at the lo For, | above all things, the stars in your crown | made of | must shine brightly! | silver, and it 1s & charming accessory. Short Jacket Is Smart e) , tol of | Cassis—or _hlack currant—is. & shade mm«nhmmm&um wer daytime weals nnthln!nn each end and are slightly wider the center. One of these is| graduated rhinestones, set in | edge, longer in back than in front, lined with white satin, richly collared with white fur, is truly a lovely choice for the smart young woman. As always, she likes black, and appreciates its | smartness tn contrast o ner youthful | good looks. |, For daytime wear as well as evening | fur coats are both long and short. The short fur coat has a very definite day- time advantage. It is much easier to carry about than the long coat. There- fore many women choose it, to wear over @ warm wool frock. Over the thin crepe daytime frock the long fur coat is, of course, more scrviceable. And as fur coats are made nowadays the welght 15 80 nicely hung from the | shoulders that they are seldom burden- some. They are cut to get a maximum Zr weight at a minimum of bulk and rag. Evening Ha; Ar; Vastly Becoming | The dinner hat is something quite | diverting in the way of head cc \'fgmz. It is a small, close-fitting hat that is | worn with evening dress for restaurant | dinners. It is made of many fabrics land is devised in many Ppicturesque styles. But it 18 always simple. Therein lies its charm. It suggests sophisticated demureness, and really | adds much to the appearance of its wearer. Moreover, it is light of weight and light of line and protects the coiffure without burdening the head. Sometimes the little hat is made of maline folded closely about the head, | stitched, perhaps, with gold or silver | threads in a little decorative border | that holds out sharp, perky points | above the ears. | . Sometimes it is made of the softest kind of chiffon, much draped and fold- |ed. Sometimes it is of net to match | the frcck or to match the hair. Some- times it is made of feathers, that look as if they grew over the sleek head they cover. Sometimes it is made of the softest sort of metallic cloth. It is never heavy or thick, however, and of metal cloth must be of the thinnest sort. Correct Colors For the colorful velvet evening wrap empire blue, flame, canary yellow or orange may be chosen. These colors may be worn correctly with white or | black, with matching colors or with | pastel tor s of the same color. Among greens that are spoken of in fashion circles must be mentioned duck’s ef n, glade green, ruby red, Deach pink, tomato ‘and . hyaetnth | about 35 minutes. The sketch shows For the young man in school or college there are leather jackets and warm sweaters that are sure to find favor. Boston Cream Pie ‘Two eggs, one cupful flour, one and one-half teaspoonfuls baking powder, three-quarters cupful sugar, one-eighth teaspoonful salt, one-half cupful boil- ing milk, one-half teaspoonful vanilla ex{rlct or other flavoring. Beat yolks and white separately, add beaten Isg olks to stiffly beaten whites and gradually add flour, baking pow- der, sugar and salt which have been sifted together three or four times; add hot milk very slowly, add vanilla. Bake in deep layer-cake tin in moderate oven ‘When cool split and put between layers the following cream filling: Sprinkle powdered sugar on top of cake. Cream Filling. — One-half cupful sugar, two tablespoonfuls corn starch, one-eighth teaspoonful salt, two eggs, one cupful scalded milk, one teaspoon- ful butter, one-half teaspoonful vanilla. Mix together sugar, corn starch, salt and beaten eggs; pour on gradually scalded milk, add butter, cook in double boller for at least 10 minutes or until thick and smooth, stirring constantly; add flavoring, cool and spread between layers of cake. e P Books Demand Our Most Kindly Care A’ valuable book cleserves to be care- fully really fee! even an ive tha probably never have any great intrinsic value, 18 worth keeping carefully. After you have read it and en. it, means more to you than a mere volume of printed pages. And even if books don’t mean much to you, you should try to keep those in your bookcases in good condition merely as an act of housewifely attention. If the cover of the book is becoming loose and is in danger of separating, cut inch-wide strips of whif linen or heavy white cotton and paste between end papers of the front and back covers. Be sure that no paste remains 1! Lapin jacket made with sleeves that are long and snug, but @are cold indoors. Pair of fabric fur gloves, made in pullon fashion, shirred and never was lingerie daintier than it is this year. always a good choice. For the man, old or young, there are slippers and bahrobe, for the very substantial Christmas ift, a walking stick, g ves, handkerchiefs, neck scarfs, ties and caps, cigarette lighter or match box, and a dosen and one of other things that the men’s wear shop can show. Evening Dress Changes French Styles Show Tendency to Have Back Covered. Other Articles of Dress Respond to New Ideas — More Elab- orate Sleeves. Skirt lengths will remain about what they are. The full-length skirt has been generally adopted for evening and for street wear. There is no chance of the immediate revival of short skirts of any sort, s0 if you have any in your wardrobe that cannot conceivably be lengthened, the best thing to do is to dlfi:e of them at once. smooth, flat hip line will remain in favor at least through the coming Spring. Skirts are getting fuller, but the flare starts from below & well de- fined hip line. The evening dress cut very low at the back will, of course, remain a fa- vorite for the Winter and probably the Spring, but among the newest French dresses there are significant instances of evenin~ dresses made with the back covered. By next Winter it is possi~ ble—barely possible—that we shall wear | in T\.urded and tected. If evening dresses high like books youp:%ubuau 1 m inexpensive book, that will at the back and favorite . Wool low at the front. ‘Wool will surely be & for late Winter and it | and it m spite of its present popularity, has a &mmtlln future. All the heavier silk crepes are fa- v 5 quality georgette appears llk';i to be revived for late Winter. Chiffon still leads among evening fab- rics and taffeta is in line for revival. Tuck-in blouses have come to stay at least for the present, but a new lease of life has been declared for the over- The short overblouss is Brown will remain a good choice for street wear throughout the Winter Black will be its only rival. But as the dlrl begin to lengthen. brighter colors will surely come into favor and dresses of rich jewel tones will take the place of the blacks and browns for wear under the dark cloth or fur coat. Bear in mind that French dress- makers are making a concerted and persistent effort to brighten the pan- orama of smart fashions. They are going to give us every chance in the world to appear in jewel and flower petal colors in 1931. Gradually but surely sleeves are be- coming fuller and more elaborate. The kimono or,dolman type of sleeve has reappeared here and there and long flowing slecves are bidding for favor. Skirt Length ‘Well dressed women here and abroad seem to have accepted the following skirt lengths as desirable for Autumn: Sports skirts are about 14 and 15 inches from the ground. Daytime dresses for town wear are about 12 or 18 inches. Afternoon dresses are 8 inches or slightly longer. Evening dresses vary from those of ankle le: to those that touch or trail on the floor. Adapting these rules to her own Ly i of the sports le a u,’-bmlz 14 inches rrg:z the ground. Fashion Sources ‘There are suggestions of the quaint fashions of the Kate Greenaway de- n in the new fashions, and Molyneux of Paris has made much of this type of dress. Long belted coats, suggestive of Rus- sian costume, have been given impor- tance by Lanvin and other important French dressmakers. Meantime, the evening dress of clas- sic_Greek persuasion is in h favor. The influence of the Directoire pe- riod in fashions. is seen in the slightly shown on new evening afiermoon dressés. as fust below the bust. A lovely warm Mitle garment to sMp on over the evening about the wrists, ideal for driving or walling. Dainty lingerie is You can make it or buy it—if you make it, embellish it with the daintiest of hand The all-leather sort an admirable choice for attractive. And a pair of matching gloves and shoes, such as the fi 11 Problems frock #f you work. Handbags are street wear. Sometimes there are matching umbrellas or belts that make such a gift doubly igure wears, is another lovely gift. Jewelry is a good choice for Christmas. From Tablecloths to Handkerchiefs, They Add Note of Distinction—Rather Severe Letters Preferred, With Few Twirls—Depend for Effect on Line and and Triangles. BY BETSY CALLISTER. MONOGMHS are always deco- rative. _This made or bought all your Christmas gifts, you can do no better than to make some There s soms formal about_the smart monogram of moment. It is not usually made up of pretty letters surrounded by dainty floral scrolls. It is made up of neat, rather severe let- ters with few extra twirls. They de- pend for their effect on their line and mlln.; rather than on their pretty ef Single letters are also used, but the grouping of three letters, interlaced in true monogram fashion or else ranged one after the other, is preferred. Vionnet, in Paris, is sponsor for a rather elaborate but very modern mono- Expression Gives Evi- dence of Character, but May Be Modified When Thought Takes More Agree- able Channels—Fine Muscles Involved. BY CHARLOTTE C. WEST, M. D. If the eyes can be veiled, the mouth cannot. You must “sink or swim” by the expression which your nature, your character, stamps with relentless cer- tainty day by day upon this feature. Patlent, petulant, weak, indulgent, se« rious, frivolous, callous, kind, cruel, self-reliant, hard, selfish, gentle, mirthe ful, dependable—all these characteris- tics and more are revealed by the ex- pression of your mouth. Note the lines of the mouth of a sweet-tempered, op- timistic woman and compare them with one who is self-willed and fault-finding. One possesses shapely lips, pleasantly upturned at the corners, while the other’s mouth is habitually set in an | ugly expression. It has been scientifically established that human frailties, as well as charm- ing and delightful qualities, are exhib- ited first by the motor features of the face, among which the mouth ranks highest. The extent to which this fea~ ture changes in the course of years, the certainty with which it is molded in accordance with the underlying nature, is really startling. On reviewing the mouths of middle- aged persons, one notes with regret the unsightly lines which have been traced there by habits of tholight and feeling. | Fortunately these lines, these ugly ex- | pressions, which seem indelibly stamped [ upon the countenance can be removed. Of tremendous import and hope to you, if you are desirous of help in this re- spect, is the fact that inasmuch as Spacing—Semi-Circles ature of the e: em for—a let~ pnnd oxmmgmwmmmm an r assimilative caj B Thmumlfl of face and "{hfl)lt are They are attached to the inner of fi that encircle the and mouth. The muscle affecting the u%r lip is one of the lifting muscles, while to the lower lips are attached S T el ia the ‘amiling of grining muscle, and or m deeper down, covering the cheeks, the che muscles. It is these muscles that are brought into play when, on distending the cheeks with air, you forcibly expel it from the lips as in blowing & t. Afternoon Dress Is Most Fetching Lace yoke and sleeves—that is the 'Avmo(mmwu'amom;'gom are made. The long, tight-fitting sleeves make these dresses most becom- \ng most _sa to the wearer. lack suede and gloves—gloves of the pull-on sort, extending up over the cuffs—are often worn in the after- noon. For afternoon one of the interesting mw‘ dark shades is good for stocking oice. For aft:rnoon some women choose & small hat with a feather trimming at one side—sometimes at both sides. The feather sometimes han demurely down over the ear, sometimes it sticks pertly out at the cheek. g, S o e s on a 3 feather is all black. These small feather- trimmed hats are occasionally further trimmed with a tiny, sheer veil that Just comes down over the brows and eyes, As a rtule, however, veils are worn on hats otherwise untrimmed. In the afternoon jewelry of a l'.rlking character is often worn. A chase metal necklace, heavy and picturesque, adorns a simple, long-sleeved afternoon frock very well, Sometimes a ml’tchl.n‘ bracelet is ese qualities leave their impress on the most flexible muscles and soft tis- instincts is followed by_encot uraging results. ‘The very elasticity of the tissues proves that they are susceptible to great changes, It is a fact borne out by sci- entific data that base character lines disappear when higher thoughts' control the play of the features, and that in elevated mien. Even after middle age, the mouth may mold itself to reveal an inner 8 the effort to rise above your lower st almost. tmm = occasions. Tunics of metal cloth, supple, are worn with long, Canton ci to thin and black time the countenance assumes a more | gy mobility of mien. In studying the expressions lofty of characters you will notice that the ugly simply a mechanical effect and doesn’ last long. Just as the lines of face are traced by habits of thought, so they must be erased in the same way. ‘The original contour of the mouth has much to do with its later develop- ment. Straight, firm lips good, square chin have a b:tter chimce to retain their thful lines than puth that curves downward over a weak beny .formation covered with fatty tissue. A small, narrow, chin or o that hollows inward near the under discloses of With Fur Cuffs Coats for formal daytime wear have cuffs made of fur or much trimmed