Evening Star Newspaper, October 12, 1930, Page 55

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Furtrimmed coat sleeves show all the new devices used to make sleeves attractive as Last Century Fur- nishes Models for Present Season, and These in Turn Were Inspired by Styles of Historic Periods. As a Whole They Are Simpler in Con- struction, Less Fussy and More Graceful Than Their Proto- types. BY MARY MARSHALL. LEEVES wide at the elbow, sleeves wide above the elbow and sleeves wide below the elbow. Sleeves with long, tight cuffs, sleeves with flounces near the shoulder, sleeves with flounces or ruffies near the wrists. Leg o' mutton sleeves, Bishop sleeves, Angel sleeves, Dolman sleeves. Evening dresses with long sleeves and daytime coats with elbow sleeves. This is indeed a season of varied arm coverings and there is not a sleeve fashion of the nineteenth century that has not been tried by some important French dressmaker or another in this thirtieth year of the twentieth century. ‘When you recall the fact that the fashion history of the last century was marked by a continuous series of Te- vivals of all the romantic periods of the past, you can readily see that there is very little in the way of sleeve de- sign that has not been brought into play in shaping sieeves for the present season. Experiments had to be made, because 80 many seasons had passed since slecves _had been elaborated in a way. During all the seasons when we were preoccupled with skirt lengths slecves remained practically un- changed. There seemed to be no one type of sleeve that was naturally duc for revival. ‘The only well-defined feature of the situation was that sleeves should be- come elaborate. And in launching the new era of arm coverings the dress- makers have been most generous. They have given us practically every type of sleeve that can be imagined, taking * Lyelet-embroidered silk crepe tunic dress details, |(h£m. as we have seen, from the days {in which -they were revived in the last | century. * % o % 'ROM the Directoire and Empire fashions of the first part of the | nineteenth century have come the sleeves that show short puffs or ruf- fles near the shoulder. From 1830- 1840 period they have taken sleeves full from the elbow to the shoul- der, and from the same period the drooping sh line. From the 1850-1860 period we have the leg o' mutton sleeve and from the 1880 period come sleeves that are snug from the shoulder to below the elbow with marked fullness above the wrist. And |50 on through the century. | . If you want to get this sleeve situa- tion well in mind, glance through the pages of a book dealing with the his- tory of costume in the last century and compare the sleeves with those seen in | the smartest of the new dresses. You will realize that each of these is in fact | & revival, but despite their diversity you | will observe t there is something about them all that marks them dis- tinetly with the date 1930 As a whole they are simpler in cori- c! less fussy and more grace- their prototypes. If the full- ness occurs above the elbow, then the lower portion of the sleeve is closely fitted to reveal the slender lines of the lower If the fullness occurs below the w. then the sleeve is closely fitted or draped above the elbow. There is never anything bulky or over-elab- orate about even the most ambitious | of these revivi * * % AMONG the most clever of the de- | gns are the new double sleeves that give the effect of light gloves with | a dark dress. Here the sleeve is made to conform to the lines of the arm from the shoulder to a line a few inches below the elbow, where a flare or cuff of the da aterial indicates a sleeve of a threc-quarter length, Below this is a closely fitted, long, undersleeve of light-toned crepe, usually to match the collar or vestee at the neck of the ress Dolman sleeves are unquestionably coming to the fore and have already been noted. not only on coats and street dresses but on afternoon dresses as well. As most of us can readily recall, & Dolman sleeve is made with a deep arm- hole, the material of the upper part of the 'sleeve usually being continuous with the material of the dress. As a coat sleeve this has decided advantages, since it provides enough room in the leeve abow the elbow to accommodate of the new dress sleeves that are bove the elbow. With the evening dress made with flounces near the has deep silk cuffs on loofe sleeves. UNDAY THE Elaboration Is Required in shoulder, an evening wrap with this type of sleeve has obvious advantages. x % % JLONG gloves have established | ¥~ place in the evening mode and are | bidding now for favor in the daytime | wardrobe. There are new fur jackets with sleeves that end in a slight flare below the elbow, to be worn with elbow- length gloves. Under a fur coat of that sort one wears a dress with long sleeves, the gloves being drawn over the dress sleeve. Small buttons, usually covered with the fabric of the dress, are used to or- nament many of the new sleeve:. These buttons may extend in a straight line from the center of the shoulder to the wrist on the outside of the sleeve, over two dozen small buttons being used for a single sleeve. Or there may be a line | of them from wrist to elbow on a tleeve that shows fullness at or above the el- bow. Or this line of buttons may cx- | tend only three or four inches up from the elbow. (Copyright, their 1930 {Maps as 'Charmifig D, O, Wall Decorations, To many persons there is something | irresistibly fascinating about maps ) Those showing rivers, cities, mountains | and boundary lines of far-off lands re- | call past journeys or journeys on which they dream of going. Maps of anci:nt countries and cities carry with them the allure of old romance and history Maps of countries near at hand sug- gest possible motor trips and broaden | the horizon of every day living. Within the past f=w years maps and globes have come into importance | among interior decorations. Old maps | rank with old prints among interesting | wall decorations and copies of these | quaint old maps are used on lamp | shades and wastepaper baskets and are |put to a half dozen other decorative uses. New maps that are made are as decorative as the old ones—maps for | children, maps for lovers of romance, | maps showing the routes taken by | adventurers. By all means take advantage of this present vogue for maps. A large map may be framed and hung in a book room or in the book corner of a living | room. If the map is large the cost of | framing is rather high. because the frame must be heavy enough to bear | the weight of a large piece of glass. But it is possible to have the map mounted {on heavy pasteboard, sheilacking the |surface of the map to protect it from dust | Sometimes maps arc: merely pasted to | the wall as wall paper 1s pasted. Deco- rators sometimes have panels arranged | in_the library of precisely the right size | for the maps chosen French Toast. In one interesting old cookery book | the dish that most of us know as French toast is described under the heading of “Queen Elizabeth's Toast.” It would be interesting to know how this name orig- inated and whether this greatest of English Queens had a_predilection for | this toothsome dish. Toothsome it is when properly made, and only the one who has actually tried to make it knows { what difficulties attend the task. | Like poaching eggs, however, it seems a simple enough thing to do when you | have the knack. At the high-class res- | taurants the price of French toast is out | of all proportion to the simple ingredi- ents of which it consists. The infer- ence is that the making of it demands the attention of a high-prired cook. Of course, you know how to go about it. Take medium thick slices of bread that is a trifle stale. Have ready in a soup plate one or two eggs beaten up with milk in the proportion of a cupful | to every egg. Dip the slices of bread in this. allowing them to soak up the egg and milk without becoming soggy. Much | depends on this. Meantime have ready a griddle greased with a tablespoonful | or so of butter and hot enough to fry | the bread quickly, but not too quickly. | Turn as soon as browned on one side | brown on the other, and serve at once. 1 Color by Night | Some women seem to follow the gen- eral rule never to wear bright colors save for evening or for very bright sun- light. For street wear and daytime wear generally, save at the seashore or country, they choose dark or neutral tones. Thus there are French women of good taste who habitually choose black or navy blue or beige, according | to the fashion, for daytime frocks, in |and about Paris, but don bright and vivid colors for the months they spend at some seaside Summer resort. The fact is that in the cold penetrat- | ing light of our cities it is difficult to wear bright colors and still to look smart. This is especially true of older women. One ‘authority on such matters says that the woman with blue eyes should wear blue in the evening. Of course the blue-eyed woman would hardly be ex- pected always to wear blue, but she should certainly not miss the opportu- nity of sometimes wearing a_color that 50 becomes her, especially this season, when the blue evening frock is so smart. OCTOBER 12 Top, left, winered silk crepe shows flaring cuffs on sleeves, velvet petals at wrist; top, right, green cloth coat has held ‘with buttons, slecves slashed in points, the points Center group of sleeves shows wrinkled black velvet cuff with narrow band of fur, a puffed sleeve with fullness gathered into frilled cuff and a puffed sleeve with fullness held in Ly a shaped cuff, n velvet after- noon coat sleeve short at the front to show the glove, n long, tight sleeve with puff at the top, a sleeve that gives a many-caped effect and a sleeve with a pointed overdrapery. petal. At left, below, et of silver and rose paillettes: at ening dress with short sleeve made of right, below, a sleeve made of narrow tulle Yuffles, and center, a black velvet dress with sleeves puffed at the top and trimmed with bands of bead embroidery like the yoke. Well Costumed Hands Just Plain Gloves Are Not Sufficient This Season to Achieve Harmony With Styles — Day Glove Likely to Combine Two Colors. (GLOVES are an index to good groom- ing this Autumn. Given an individual type of costume, and you will be doing yourself an in- tice if you do not dress up your hands to match the costume But what the well-costumed hands will wear this Winter depends on you, | your moods and the occasion for which you are dressing. There are such end- less numbers of gloves and so many different types that your glove box or drawer should contain a few ordinary plain slip-one and at least five differ- ent types for day wear on various occasions The plain glove is still excellent. But no one this Winter will be satisfied to wear just plain gloves. The fancy sleeves ask a little help in the matter of eleganc: Is it fair to yourself to have a suit or coat with a most unusual collar and sleeve arrangement, and then not point it up with a pretty hat and lovely gloves? Probably the most important day glove combines two colors. The beige or gray glove takes on tone and indi- wality with pipings, stitchings, but- ns, godets and even ruffies of color But the majority of these all are pull- ons. The old cuff glove is almost gone. The new glove takes fanciness seriously | from the wrist line up. But that upper consists in a sloping, flaring or split ex- tension of the glove itself, and not an added cuff that is stitched on at the | | wrist line. | ack gloves are fine for evening. But the street glove asks that it be fairly light in _color or else a rich navy, green or purple red to match up some of the perfectly stunning suit and coat shades for Winter. For the brown sult or coat there is a neat little brown calfskin glove that pulls on and has a curved open wris portion. It has fine stitchings in_th color of the calfskin, but the cuff is piped in brown and on the wrist is an anchor of brown appliqued kid. It is the perfect glove for runabout shopping or regular street wear. | Should your new outfit be green, then there is a charming glove of beige glace | |kid with green appliques. It is a six- | | button length pull-on, with wide fancy | | stitchings in green, and a rather lacy | design of the green on the wrist por- tion and outlining the tops. ‘When you start out to luncheon, your | gloves will give you a real assurance of erfect grooming, if you choose them |right. There is a novel, one-button glove among the new offerings that is very distinctive for its pale pink kid material and for its ol'h‘nl-‘ Pl | thing, in brown and orange, if you please There is an elegance about this color combination that a well-dressed woman will crave. With your afternoon things. you will ind you need longer gloves. So many of your afternoon costumes have a way of ending their sleeves a bit high. Or there are plain, deep cuffs below the fanciest of puffs, leg-o'-mutton and other shapes, and you really need gloves to carry out the idea Eight and 12-button lengths appear for afternoon with the eight-button probably the most satisfactory. One pair of putty-colored kid gloves of this type has a most unusual decora- tive motif, small buttons uniting with stitchings and applique in brown kid | They are svelte and rich-looking, they make you respect their wearer's taste, whenever you see them. For practical purposes, for the busi- ness woman, the navy kid glove with shirred godets of gray kid or beige kid is an ideal solusion to These gloves stand up under wear and, tear, and like any really handsome they maintain their elegance through the day, an important point for the business woman Autumn Colors Brown - instead - of -blacks and near- blacks are important for Autumn. While black has a perennial appeal to the smartly dressed woman, and while French dressmakers always in- cline to the use of it, a definite effort has been made to make use of shades of brown instead of black for con- ventional street clothes. Callot, of Paris, is in the vanguard of this movement and doubtless we shall see a great deal of brown during the Autumn. At the same time, there are various dark shades of navy blue. of green and purple that are spoken of as near-black or lighter-than-black. There is a “plum black” and a dark burgundy called “ink” that are much discussed at present There is definite smartness in green this Autumn and many of the smartest street costumes from Paris are devel- oped in the darker, richer tones of this color. The sketch shows how embroidery is used to embellish an otherwise plain sleey her problem. | 1930—PART THREE. French Openings Show Revivals| This is apparenfly to be a season of nineteenth century revivals so far as dress fashions are concerned. The French dressmakers have not delved back in remote history or gonie far afield for inspiration, but have drawn from French-born fashions of the last cen- tury for the most significant of their in- spirations. And always it would seem they have done this with a sense of | hurlnm', restrained yet none the less real The period of 1880—frequently be- rated for the extremes to which the bustle fashion was carried—has proved especially inspiring. As reproduced in the present mode we have the satisfac- tion of seeing the pleasing tendencies of the period shorn of their Victorian exaggerations. Chanel has played with these ideas in a most interesting manner, while the circular flaring skirt with even hemline and normal waistline stressed by Vion- | net and others suggests the gracious styles of the 1890 period. Paul Poiret and Molyneux have done interesting things with the raised waistline suggestive of the directoire and empire period, emphasizing the more picturesque aspects of that pe- riod and several of the important Prench dressmakers have drawn their inspira- tion from the 1830 period with its wide- 1y flaring skirt and drooping shoulders. There 1s no striking addition to the length of skirts in the fashion launched in Paris for the coming season. Ten, 11, 12 and 13 inches from the floor a the lengths most often seen for daytime wear, with skirts from 10 to 8 inches from the floor for formal afternoon and full lengths or trained skirts for eve- ning. Maids Nowadays Have Good Rooms “House a maid like a pig and you can’'t blame her if she lives ke a pig,” remarked a blunt housewife when she looked through a new house with an agent who hoped to sell it to her. The maid’s room of the house was placed under the eaves of the third floor—a room with a single window that suggested insufferably hot nights. But even this room was many degrees bet- ter than the rooms that were desig- nated maids’ rooms in houses built & | generation or two ago. | " Housewives and maids alike have changed their ideas as to what consti- tutes proper maids’ accommodations. The fact is that servants’ quarters in | some really unpretentious houses now- adays possess conveniences — running water, bath room. steam heat, large that would have been counted xury for many a mistress a genera- tion or two ago. One problem that presents itself to the builder is how to keep the maid quarters apart from the family in this day when every extra hall or stairway adds enormously to the cost of building. The old trick, of course, was to have back stairs and a back hall and maids quarters either in a separate wing or on_the third floor. In some recently built houses the problem has been solved by placing the maid’s room on the ground floor. Sometimes it opens directly on the kitchen, but this has obvious disad- vantages. Better planning shows the maid’s room across a small hall from the back entrance, leading also to the kitchen and the front hall. Dress or Gown Robe or Frock? Most persons call them “dresses.” This is the term that has been usually adopted by the makers of this branch of apparel and the name that is used by the retailers. “Ladies’ and Misses’ Dresses” is the direction the elevator man is taught to give, not “Ladies’ and Misses' Frocks.” | _ While this word “dress” is most usual, | there are some people who object to its |use in this sense. Some persons always | speak of “frocks” and others of “gowns.” Perhaps the chief objection to the term dress is that, correctly, it should be applied to all that is worn from head to foot. When you read “her dress was rich” or “her dress was inappropriate,” Loparel. mot merely, . gown of frock: apparel, or The word ‘“robe,” came into fashion the middle of the last century in this sense, is of in 1862 as “a French mantuamaker’s affectation.” Correctly if is the apparel of and word fits judges. dave Tt Ylmplics " somerting® rethes adays. stately and flowing. 15 leeves Which Have Ancient Origin Quaint silk velvet dress has puffed sleewes—and a puffed skirt—trimmed with rosettes of the dress material. | Both Men and Women Appreciate Their Use in Room Decoration—They Increase and Em. phasize Existing Spaces—Selection Should Be Based on Character of Furnishings—New Hand Glasses. BY BETSY CALLISTER. VEN men like mirrors as part of the decoration of a room. And women adore them. Pretty women, naturally, realize that their reflection but adds to the attractiveness of the room. Ugly women realize that good mirrors are slightly flattering, and that their reflected looks are better than their actual looks. Mirrors increase and emphasize the size of the room. Placed judiciously, they reflect the loveliness of a window’s prospect or an open door in a way to make the room larger and more at- tractive. A mirror above a mantel holding & bowl of flowers makes the room seem flower-decked. ‘There are modern mirrors to go in modern rooms—there are mirrors of all the historic periods to go in rooms where they fit best. Be sure, if you have a room furnished in Colonial fur- niture, to have a Colonial mirror. Don't introduce a modern French mir- ror of the most modern school and hope to have it look right. In the room furnished in modernistic taste—or modern, as the furniture ex- perts would rather have us say—be sure to have a modern mirror. Some of these have no frames, but are set flat against the wall. I have in mind a room with silver walls, covered with paper showing a self-pattern of blocks and angles. The woodwork is green. The walls are without pictures. On each side of the fireplace hangs a painted china mask, quite colorful and diverting. Opposite the entrance door to the room hangs a mirror—or, rather, a mirror is set flat against the wall, cemented there, so that it lles flat and firm. And another mirror is set so that it reflects the long windows that open on an iron balcony high above the city streets where this apartment is located. There is a trick nowadays that I like —of leaving a hand glass on the livin room table. It is a rather dlxnfllcs glass—often carved and gilded wood. Or perhaps enamel. The point is that it must fit with the surroundings—and there are many living rooms where wall mirrcrs look well that would be quite inappropriate resting places for hand glasses. Some of the new hand glasses are made circular, with a looped cord in- stead of a handle—and the looped cord coming from the exact center of the mirror back. New Mode Shows Elaborate Details This is & season when we do all sorts of things that we vowed we would never do again. We are weare ing evening dresses that dangle round our insteps and ankles—and most of us vowed we never would do that. We are wearing troulesome lingerie collars and cuffs and vestees that have to taken out and washed or sent cleaners and then fussily again—and we at least MP“ ‘we woul never have to do that again. And if we are very up to date we are wearing long lace-edged slips or even petti~ coats with our long evening and after- thing that most women considered definitely out of the quess | tion a few seasons ago. The new, long petticoats are most amusing, because they are so very much like the sort of thing that we consid- ered impossible such a short time They fit snugly at the waist and hips and flare out toward the knees, extend- ing actually down the ankles whers they are edged with lace. The tendency for more elaborately trimmed hats must perforce move slowly, but here and there among the French berets and bonnets inter esting' trimming makes its a ‘There are pairs of very smi the sides of some of the new brimmed hats and sometimes two small feathers are placed just behind the left ear on a brimless hat. Some of the new coats for Winter are made with the bodice portion ene tirely of fur which -extends just to the belted waistline, giving. the effect of & bolero. Sometimes the sleeves of these coats are of fur down to the elbows with the lower sleeves like the skirts of the coat made of cloth. In other coats cuffs of fur extend up to the elbow, the upper part of the sleeves being of cloth. The short capelet of fur, as worn by women of the eighties and nineties, inspires other Winter coats which show elbow-length and rolling collar of fur over a long cont of cloth. Figure shows new dolman slaeve and cowl neck. The other sleeves are “ also smart and new,

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