Evening Star Newspaper, April 10, 1930, Page 42

Styles Change Radically During the Past Few Months—The Spring Silhouette. Popularity of Certain Colors—Coats and Suits—Evening Frocks and the Season’s Newest Accessories—Capital Shops Show Great Variety for the Spring Shopper. BY MARGARET WARNER. THE approach of a new season is, among other things in the fem- inine world, a period of happy anticipation, lanning and much studying of the fashion news and, best of all, the shops them- selves, in an endeavor to learn what is newest and smartest as to line, fabric and color, and what is most becoming among these to one’s individual type. This proves a never ending source of joy to the feminine heart and mind, and of all the seasons the Spring seems to lead the others in the pursuit of this occupation. ‘Winter to Spring than at other times during the year, and after| Styles change more radically from a season of more or less conventianally similar dark, heavy wraps, what a welcome opportunity is offered by milder days for display: ing things more bright and gay and even saucy and flippant! ‘The silhouette, changed so remark- ablv during the past months, as we have all discovered, to the joy of some and the sorrow of others, has come to stay for a while, It is now an accepted standard, and adapting it to one's self 15 the only thing left to do about it, for in this we must all be conformists sooner or later. And really the new lines are 80 much more graceful and appealing, and why shouldn’t the belt be at the natual waist line and drawn in a bit, and what objection is there to lengthen- ing the skirts a few inches to relieve the eyes from beholding so many kinds of knees, and surely added circular full- ness at the bottom lends a graceful movement that has been absent for some time in most of our costumes. When one has mentioned these three int;, one visions the three things that their many variations have caused the silhouette to be what it is today. And even if we have accepted it in fact, many of us have had perfectly good clothes in our wardrobes that we felt we must wear a little longer, wait- ing for Spring to make the complete change to things quite new and differ- ent. Here I might say that there are sev- eral lengths of skirts, according to the ¥ of dress, and in general they are about 4 inches below the knee for sports frocks, an inch or two longer for gen- eral street wear and slightly longer for more formal daytime frocks. Of course, the evening mode goes the limit and is just short enough to be comfortable— that is, anywhere from the ankle to touching the floor. The Season’s Colors. As to the colors vying for popularity, we find brown, tan, orange, capucine, yellow, navy blue, bright blue, pewter blue, dark green, light green and all the lovely and thrilling: in-between greens that vibrate with the freshness of Spring. Then beige is ever with us and flesh tints for tulle and chiffon. Last, but by no means least, comes that stand-by of the French—black—in all FLESH - COLORED MOIRE WITH CREAM TULLE FLOUNCES. ‘materials and for all occasions, partic- ularly liked at the present moment. The Washington shops are showing models in all these beautiful colors, and each is 80 lovely when worked out in all the | becomingness—factors which should be details of a given ensemble that it is really a matter of personal choice and in the forefront of our choosing at all times, but from which we digress every now and then. Materials are not so different in the main. Woolens are lighter and softer to admit of being fashioned into capes and peplums; tweeds are extremely loose-woven, and others are decidedly | nubbed. Some woolens have a stippled joverlay of white, and covert cloth is extensively used for coats and sul Laces, chiffons, plain and flowere | tulles, taffetas and moire make the eve- | nings beautiful. The New Suits. ing and genuine popularity for the pres- ent Spring season. Suits are of several distinct types. There is the sport suit with plain, rather short, jacket, usually cardigan as to cut, the suit with flaring peplum and the cape suit. Of the first mentioned, there was a delightful run- about model recently shown here in dark blue heavy Jersey, with an un- usual cardigan jacket boasting the most attractive trimming of bows of the ma- terial placed on stitched bands over the breast and hip pockets. The skirt had a short circular flounce which extended into a front panel. The blouse, of egg- shell silk crepe, had a series of diag- onal crossings at the front, with little hemstitched bows at the intersections. This is very new and different. A soft dark blue felt or straw would be well adapted to this suit. Of the same general type is a short- jacketed suit of lipstick red wool. The front closing is diagonal and fastens with two buttons at the bottom, where the lower edge makes an upward angle. Following the line of the bottom of the Jacket are three applied bands of the material at equal distances between shoulder and hem. The red and white figured blouse ties at the front, and the skirt is plain. With this is carried a flat red kid purse with chic clasp, and the hat may be red or black. The Spring ensemble in beige and brown is particularly popular and pleasing. For instance, there were two lovely suits recently shown here of very light-weight soft wool material. One of these had its coat a little above knee length, and its tuxedo collar in- troduced a new note of stitching in & delightful design which also appeared on the generous pockets, The skirt had a fitted yoke and front pleat and the V-necked blouse, with jabot, was of the tuck-in variety. With this was shown a brown straw hat with upturned brim and wider sides; tan kid ?umm and flat purse completed tHe outfit. A suit Full FHavor Onsured r I YHERE it is! Right on the can! Positive insurance of fresh, full- Let us first consider the suit in all its | smart variations, for it is of outstand-, of similar material and color had its rather more flaring coat longer in the back and its collar made of a straight band knotted on the left side and from there hanging in two I a circular skirt. The pocket was em- phasized by a stitched design similar to the suit previously described. Another light tan suit employed a very flaring peplum to give it distinc- tion and was finished at the front closing with a two-inch banding of brown galyak. I saw a very smart, dressy suit of dark blue wool material stippled in white, very novel and chic. This suit was made with a flat two- inch band for a collar which extended somewhat beyond the point of juncture with the coat front, hanging loose from there. It had deep sleeve capes and a VITH WHITE BROWN TWEED YV PIQUE COLLAR, CUFFS AND FLOWER. v JUST READ what Charles King, the Metro-Goldwyne« Mayer star, says: A really good cup of coffee is like a good song. .. pleas- ing and refreshing. tightly yoked skirt. The blouse was etrhell oddly woven silk, with very full short jabot. To be worn with this was an adorable little imported fine blue felt turban, with extended por- tions over the ears and a very chic | inset of closely woven straw, Dark blue kid pumps, with cut steel orna- ments, blue kid purse and blue-and- white chiffon handkerchief completed this new and different ensemble. I saw this, same unusual material used for a separate coat, with cape collar of black velvet, most suitable for wear over a blue chiffon or silk crepe frock. One must not leave out green in any description of the Spring suits, for here, as well as in all the other items of the wardrobe, green is a welcome ONE OF THE NEW STRIPED JER- SEYS. THE COLORS ARE BROWN, YELLOW AND_CREAM. favorite. One very tailored suit with three-quarter-length coat used a ma- terial having a black background with | a broken checking of green and white in a rough weave. With it was worn a green blouse and a black felt hat. | One of the lighter green suits in soft woolen material had an interesting coat | of three-quarter length, made with sev- | eral horizontal sections, and a skirt | with circular fullness in the front. The blouse was of a lighter shade of green | silk and wool—a tuck-in sports type— and the green felt hat was the same shade as the suit. A most attractive little light green | woolen suit had its tuxédo banding {and cuffs of white galyak and very delicate green silk blouse, A dignified and matronly black suit had its coat 1of hem length, its sleeves caped and its slightly circular skirt yoked and ornamented by a narrow black leather belt, and below it two bands simulating additional belts. Spring Coats. ‘The other day there was a large showing of coats at one of the shops here in town. There were many coverts in blue, oxford and brown, with and without capes, some cut princess, longer in the back and others on straight lines. For sports wear there were many tweed models and some heavier woolen weaves, Flat furs were used for the colls in many instances, and a great many of the coats used no fur tever, but had upstanding collars of the material or collars with scarf ends. One blue covert coat had its upturned collar held in place by a bow RO T T g of the matetial at the back. Shoulder yokes are a feature of many of the new coats, A very distinctive coat of light beige suitable for dress occasions was dress knrlh and had a particularly good diagonal wrap-around closing line from shoulder to knee, at which point the edge rippled in a pleasing curve to the hem line. A collar of flat beige caracul exactly matching the color of the coat was short on the left side and long and pointed on the right. It was belted at the normal waist line with a narrow soft string belt that tied. There are many very handsome coats of soft black with collars of white—al- ways a good combination for Spring and Summer. This white fur may be either ermine or any of several flat white furs, all equally good and gen- erally termed heatless furs. Lapin is also most effective on black and is par- ticularly becoming, being softer in tone than pure white. A stunning blue cloth coat had a most unusual collar, in scarf effect, with wide ends, which tied at the front. These scarf ends, 8 inches in width, were composed of diagonal strips of very thin silky galiak, each strip about 2 inches wide. The coat itself was quite plain, lapping across to the left side and nipped in at the waist- line, which was indicated by three hori- zontal tucks. With this was shown an off-the-forehead close hat, wider at the sides. The whole effect was particularly new and smart. Another blue coat had a deep cape collar with a band of squirrel, which could be drawn up closely about the neck for added warmth. Several coats of Chanel red are being shown with trimmings of black fur, a most effective combination. One of these had its wrap-around closing edged with black astrakhan, which was tled with a grace- ful bow of the cloth on the left shoul- der. One tweed coat had a predomi- nance of red nubs in the weave and another was smartly flecked with green and white. This one was lace-woven and had an interesting scarf collar in diagonal sections of two tones of green. Another model, in capucine and green, was wrap-around and tied with a string belt and a surplice collar of black galiak, There was also capelets of the fur over the tops of the sleeves. A very good-looking blue coat, with even hem- line and tle belt, had a short collar of black astrakhan, from which there hung, on either side, a scarf end of the material, which was caught into the collar with fullness. Dresses—Sport and Formal. When we come to the subject of dresses, we have arrived at a point where the profusion of things lovely and adorable occasions a lack of adequate expression to convey to you their charm. Whether it be an inexpensive little printed crepe or an exclusive orig- |inal model, they are all so fascinating they will bewitch you. They are the very spirit of the season and with all their gay colors and nuances are most ?t]lghflul, alike to debutante and ma- ron. The most attractive jersey sports TWO OF THE NEW SPRING COATS. AT LEFT: CHANEL RED, WITH ggfigi{RGALYAK TRIMMING. RIGHT: DARK BLUE WITH ASTRAKHAN dress I have seen is one using materia: with tiny stripes of brown, golden yel- | low and natural color. The interest lay | in so cutting the material that the! stripes took different directions | yoke, middle section of dress and lower | portion. The yoke was pointed at the front and under the arms and formed a capelet over the shoulders in lieu of a sleeve. The belt was yellow and browr in alternating sections, and with this vas show smart baku hat in rich DOUBLE EN UAIMANT, 'ORIGAN, “‘PARIS,, CHYPRE, EMERAUDE, STYX LES POUDRES— COIY = CHANTMENT LES PARFUMS IN THE SAME ODEUR FOR SMART HARMONY OF FRAGRANCE MR VR e AR G . Strawberry Shortcake MWWWMWWWWIMWWWIEIHMMMWNHHM%WWIEWHI%ME i LR m L ] VAR for | golden straw color, with a brim of un- even width. Another fersey was green with a but- (Continued on Thirteenth Page.) for heavier figures PRINCESS LINES —that fashion dictates One of the unique garments designed by Nemo-flex to give smart lines to the heavier fig- ure. The Wonderlift inner belt molds the waist and controls the hips. The new Diafram- Reducer, a boned reinforce- ment, smooths and flattens the troublesome roll over the diaphragm. Rayon brocade, (above) 96-107, sizes 34-54; 810; with rayon bust sections, 96-128, $12.50. bodied, glorious flavor! Absolute protection against shelf-stale coffee! We date each can to show the day your grocer gets it. We watch these dates carefully. Remove any can that remains unsold more than ten days. So you can’t buy stale Chase & Sanborn’s Coffee! Can’t buy a can that has wasted its freshness on the grocer’s shelf! See what a difference there is when your coffee’ comes in dated cans! Sample the enticing bouquet and satisfying flavor of truly fresh coffee. cer for Chase & Sanborn’ Coffee ... and en- joy coffee at its best. The freshness of Chase & Sanborn’s Dated Coffee puts it in a class by itself.” t This is one of the special uses for SELF- RISING WASHINGTON FLOUR—biscuits is an- other; waffles is still another—and a host of deli- cious pastries are better made with this special Kitchen Flour. Itis milled from June sun-ripened wheat, to which has been added the exactly cor- rect proportions of the purest and healthiest of leavening phosphates—taking the place of bak- ing powder, saving its expense and uncertainties of mixing. For smooth hip line and high nipped-in waist, Nemo suggests this front clasp girdle. Lightly but adequately boned. Side panels of webbing. ‘Style 507; sizes 34 10 40, $5.00. This sideclosing brassiere enables the heavier figure to attain graceful princess lines. Reinforced over Shaped at and well below normal waist. Style 100- 30; sizes 34 to 48. $1.00. Nemo-le At all the better shops KOPS BROS., Inc. New York . Chicago . San Francisco Boston. . Toronto London You ought to adopt both the “Pantry Pals"— PLAIN Washington Flour for all purposes, SELF-RISING Washington Flour for the spe- cial baking features. Both for sale by grocers and delicatessens in all sizes from 2-Ib. sacks up. Buy the 12 Ib. and 24 Ib. sizes for economy. Every sack guaranteed good until used. Wilkins-Rogers Milling Co. Wpigst>"