Evening Star Newspaper, December 29, 1929, Page 53

| THE Higher Waistline Has Become Established Fastand Is Achieved by Various Subter- fuges of an Ingenious Character—Tuck- ings, Shirrings * and Encrustations Pro- duce Effect of Prin- cess Silhouette— Capes A'ppear on Everything. BY HELEN DRYDEN. F you are planning a trip southward you must have new clothes, and if you are staying at home you will want them to bring the promise of Spring into your wardrobe. In either case you will be interested in the clothes presented for Southern resort wear. Here you will find the acceptance and development of the trends put forth in the styles of last Fall. The changes we thought so radical at that time have been adapted to make them more wear- able and more applicable to our mode of living. The higher waistline has become an established fact. It has been achieved by various ingenious subterfuges. The effect is that of a definite marking of a | lne we formerly called the normal | waistline. It has been described as the int the elbow touches when the arm bent at right angles and drawn close to the figure. Sometimes two belts are used, one at the hipline and the other several inches higher. Again the yoke of the skirt is brought up in a panel extending over the belt in the front, thus gaining a longer line. * x % % ALTHOUGH stitched belts of the ma- terial, usually narrow, are pre- ferred to mark this waistline, tuckings, ings and encrustations are gaining favor, producing the effect of a princess silhouette. Capes and boleros play an important role in the transition to the princess mode. It is surprising to find the variations ven to the bolero which was originally & short rounded jacket. There is e bolero placed only at the back. may be divided and worked into & sash. It may be knotted loosely and hang in scarf effect. It may be strictly tailored, as you find it in’ sports and daytime dresses, and it may be softly draped as it is on the more formal type of clothes. Again you will find it han- dled as a single revers extended to break the all-round effect of the high waistline. The revers on one side may be balanced on the other side by a gcarf. A flattering effect is produced by wide fold-like bands at the sides which simulate a bolero in the front and serve as panels in the back. Another popular idea is really a continuation of a draped neckline which curves be- ®eath the arms and becomes a shallow fuffie at the back. The capes might be considered as a development of the boleros. They ap- pear on everything—coats as well as dresses. They may be a very definite of the dress, or they may be de- ichable. Sometimes they are little more than yokes extending over the shoulders in cape effect. Again they are frankly shoulder capes and serve to vell the upper part of the arm, which is so often sleeveless. On many _evening @resses we find them -only-in the back, softening the line of the low decolletage. On some of the day-time dresses they are in the form of panels. hanging at one or both sides of the back. * k¥ X Wl'mN detachable, .a cape of this sort serves the purpose of a ket. Long, shaped, gored capes in gul soft 'oolmv:ge new and smart sports. Shorter capes, reaching the istline and tied in the front, are equally good with informal evening dresses. A cape of circular cut extend- ing midway between shoulders and waistline, buttoned to the dress, is a popular feature of the solid-color crepe costume bought to wear under the fur coat in the North quite as often as for uth. the Soi Caj of shoulder and waistline hnnrll.nlle and in tiers, give the new look to both wool and silk coats for sports and street wear. * ok x % vam are another hallmark of the new clothes for the coming season. ‘There may be no sleeves at all or they may be much ornamented. Sleeveless dresses. are numerous, both for active rts and spectators’ wear. Newer than sleeveless dresses are those with cap or elbow sleeves. The cap is longer than last season, extending below the round of the arm. Elbow sleeves are in friendly rivalry with leng sleeves in the formal after- noon and informal evening gowns, the type we are calling Sunday night or 5 to 8 frocks. On some of the black chiffon and crepe Elizabeth dresses, 8o priate for these occasions, the m barely reaches the elbow and is outlined by bead or jeweled embroidery. This may match the decoration out- ining the V-shape neck or it may be the only trimming on the gown. On many net gowns the elbow sleeves are finished with a deep circular ruffle, hanging to the waist. Long sleeves in these gowns may be very full and confined at the waist by & cuff, or gathered just below the elbow into a snug wrist section. Attention is wn to these cuffs by the shirrings, and glittering embroidery, also Iacey jabots. emphasizing lingerie touches at the neck, and winglike drapes of filmy dress fabric. On this more formal type of clothes the effect is just what the designers are striving for—more dressy, more feminine and more elegant. L ECKLINES, 100, have been softened and trimmed. On sports and tai- Jored dresses they have been raised and in many dresses brought to the throat, making the close-fitting “crew neck- dine.” The scarf collar in two or more colors drawn through slits of the ma- ferial is a favorite method of finishing the neckline in daytime dresses. On more formal frocks, lingerie touches vail, shallow yokes of lace. em- lered batiste, pastel-tinted tulle or embroidery lending the color con- trast. So long as the effect is that of & softly-draped line, the way of ac- eomplishing it is not questioned. et WHIN the bodice is not fashioned f with bolero or cape, the seaming #nd encrustations which mark the skirt continued. The yoke of the bodice follows the lines of the yoke of the the diagonal being a favorite. And ‘more and more. of these seamings and encrustations are appearing on ir clothes, for they are necessary to jold the dress into the new lines. In some of the newest models the sectional geeu are all joined with this seaming. gives a certan flexibility and fluid movement to a gown which expresses the rhythm the designers are endeav- oring to give our clothes. You will note it in ths many winding treatments. Circular flounces are ap- plied in a spiral way. Bodices take on lums which spread at the sides out ito & deep flaring tunic in the back. Skirts are made up of tiers of these shirred or pleated flounces, sometimes dipping at both sides, again only in the back. When flounces are not used you will find panels supplying length and the fullness, always in a flowing rather than an abrupt fullness. o YN sult skirts, both in the tweeds and the heavy gilks, as well as skirts of | beige frock or suit, a tan the one-plece “dress>s for daytime, you 'New and I SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, DECEMBER 29, 1929—PART VB, | In—— ust Be Adapted to Each Wearer THE SLEEVELESS SPORTS DRESS OF ORCHID CAN TON CREPE AT THE LEFT SHOWS SMART ADAP- TATION OF THE BOLERO IDEA. BY EXTENDING THE FRONT PANEL O BELT THE HIGH WAISTLINE IS MADE MORE WEARABLE. ON THE GR AT THE RIGHT STITCHING HAS BEEN USED TO GIVE THE TAILORED FEF DAYTIME DRESSES. A FEMININE TOUCH IS ADDED BY HEMSTITCHING O THE SHOULDER CAPE TYING IN A BOW MARK THE ASPARAG! LEFT AS A SOUTHERN RESORT GIVE THE FLARE TO THE EVEN HEMLINE. AT THE RIGHT THE CAP! MOLDED WITH SHIRRIN LAR SKIRT FLARES FORTH TO MODEL. THE CROSSED HIP BA! THE EMERALD ( LAR HIPL! AN IRREGULAR HEMLINE. DS CONTI GREEN CHIFFON DINNER FROCK COLLAR VEILS THE ROUND OF THE ARM S, EXTENDS TO THE 1RRE * THE SKIRT OVER THE N FLAT CREPE DRESS ' ESSENTIAL IN COLLAR AND JABOT. EPE DRESS AT THE JE AS PANELS TO THE PRIN SHEATH » WHERE THE FULL CIRC will find & great variety of treatment. The simple wrap-around skirt is liked for sports, also the plain circular skirt. Pleats as well as gores and godets are shown in skirts which must give free- dom of movement. Pleats are often combined with circular sections. Flared box pleats may be set on low yokes. Again they may be applied in step fashion stitched just above the knee. Low square-topped godets give the necessary flare to the skirt and a tailored effect. Curved, flared inserts set in at the sides are practical for woolens. Pin tucks appear on skirts | as well as bodices. Yokes, too, are cut in various shapes, irregular points and curves accented with tucks and cording. | All of this sounds intricate. The new fashjons are intricate. They must be adapted to the individual. (Copyright, 1920.) One-Coior Scheme Do you dress with a one-color scheme? Many women find that they look best if they do dress this way. Thcy choose blue, for instance, as a foundation for their color scheme. Then they have & navy blue coat and perhaps a navy blue sult. With these a dark blue hat looks well. A black dress-up hat goes well with some smart shades of blue. Beige and gray stockings and black or brown shoes can be worn with this color scheme. For variety a gray frock har- monizes with the same accessories, and occasional bits of red or ross may be introduced for trimming frocks and blouses. Or suppose you choose a beige founda- tion. Then a brown coat and hat, & georgette aft- ernoon frock that harmonizes with the brown hat, an orange and tan sport tan combination, with perhaps a green frock for contrast that yog looks well with the tan accessories, Styles Aid Thin and Stout New Dresses Offer Chances of Becom- ingness That Were| Not Usually to Be Found in More Severe Fashions That They Have Supplanted—Able to Cover Defects. Some women—and a significant num- ber of men—really like the new fashions. Probably a larger number of women— and men—object to the fashion changes that have brought back long skirts and more closely molded figures. And at present there is no subject save the weather that comes up for common- place remarks more often than the new mode in women'’s clothes. It is not at all remarkable that ob- Jections should be raised, and certainly the returned longer skirts are no more severely criticized now than short skirts were several years ago when they first came upon the scene. The most suc- cessful fashions usually are those that call forth the greatest opposition at the outset. In the meantime, whatever you think of the nuisance ef the longer skirt and the discomfort of the tighter bodice, you must admit that in the new dresses TIERS OF CIRCULAR FLOUNCES GIVE LE HAPED BANE NING FROCK. TH WITH A GR EN AND RHINEST RETAIN THE > HI $ PL] ONE BUCKLE, DEFINES THE HIGH GTH AND FLARE TO THIS OFF-WHITE CHIFFON EVE- NE _AND THE BELT, FASTENED WAISTLINE, Shorten Winter With New Clothes. To many of us, half the joy of clothes for it. has been wearing since early Fall, to ning dresses and sports dresses of I gives a rew interest in life. To break the long stretch from Setpember to days or two weeks, is & wise thing to do, a Winter trip is in getting the new Just as one is beginning to tire of heavy things that one g0 out and buy flowered chiffon eve- ightweight materials in pastel shades June, if only for 10 people realize this fact and start in early Now, with all the lovely, ready-to-wear and each year more and more Fall to plan where they will go. clothes in the shops, it is not difficult to find what you want. The thing to do is to make up your mind before you start out just what you want, things of good material. You will have while you are away, and and to select carefully well cut the satisfaction of looking well you will have some pretty, when the first warm days come in the Spring, cool clothes all ready to put on. HELEN DRYDEN. Hurry Call for Santa Claus Little Boy Who Was Overlooked Had His Own Celebration for New Year’s and a Second Visit Was Made—Welcome for Whiskered Carrier of Toys. BY OLIVE ROBERTS BARTON. HWHAT did you get for Chirstmas?” “What did you get?” “An airplane, and soldiers, and a tree, and train, and candy, and a balloon, and lots of things.” Bllly paused im- pressively to take a deep breath. “I asked you what you got.” George looked down the street and shrugged his shoulders in a peculiarly old gesture for his five and a half years. “Nothin’.” Billy regarded him for a long second. “Do you mean that you didn't get . . . that Santa Claus didn't bring you ‘anything? Not even one train or a2 there are chances of becomingness that | ball? were not usually to be found in the more severe fashions that they sup- planted. There is a greater softness of drapery and of finish—a softness that most women really need to look their best. Lingerie touches found on so many of the new dresses for afternoon are flattering to most of us and knock Off vears in the appearance of the middle-aged woman. There is a decided advantage in the present fashions in skirts because it is possible for every woman to find some- thing that 1s becoming. There are still fairly short skirts for the tall girl who feels that long skirts make her look awkward; there are longer skirts for the woman whose legs are badly pro- portioned: there are full skirts for the slender and skillfully draped skirts for the too fat. The pity is that most women do not avail themselves of the wide variety that present fashions really offer. Wash Hair Often Olean hair is always attractive, and NO woman ever looks her best when her hair has not been recently sham- pooe d. Halr speclalists now seem to agree that frequent washing does not injure the hair, but is extremely bene- ficlal—providing the hair is thoroughly cleansed, thoroughly rinsed and thor- oughly dried without overheating. Wash your hair once a i how much better it lookl."!‘ s George was silent. He dug the toe of his worn shoe into a little snow mound and watched the sidewalk. “Uh- huh,” he said at last. “Bet you were bad,” Billy suggested. No answer. “Bet you forgot to write to Santa Claus, didn't you?" No answer. “It's sort of late, but you come on I_n and tell my mother about it. She'll write a letter and tell him that you just forgot and that he should stop yet, even if tomorrow is New Year. My mother usually gets what she wants, and she’ll ask him to bring you stacks of things. Come on in anyway, and let’s each get a cake and then we'll sledride some more.” But George hung back. “It won't do no good. My old man don't like Santy Claus. He said if he caught him around our house he'd knock the stuffing out of him, and I guess that was why he was scared to come. He'd do it, too. Say, Billy, did you ever hear there was no Santy Claus? When he didn’t come after all I kind of thought maybe there wasn't. Do you believe it?" “Sure there is,” Bllly defended the white-whiskered saint. “I asked my mother and she sald, ‘Yes, there is,’ just llke that. You can believe my mother.” - “You can mine, t0o,"” George spoke up loyally. “That's what all the ladies say where she worl An' she doesn't steal, either. Why, she's had one job 10 years. She's an awful good washer. I guess she'd like Santy Claus aW right, but she said about two days before Christmas the old man got all her change and spent it on white mule and I guess she was afraid to talk about Santy comin’.” “Say, I'm getting cold. Come on in the kitchen and get a cal & ask my mother something.’ Billy sought his mother and explained the situation. Mrs. Blair listened with interest, her glance resting on the sturdy, excited figure of her small boy, and then on the more fragile figure of the other. There were beautiful but terrible shad- ows under his big brown eyes. She knew of the tragedy of the little house and more than once had played godmother. Her mind worked fast. George's big brown eyes were on her. Christmas was over, but it was necessary to proye to a certain small boy that Santa Claus had merely been gullty of an oversight. It would take a little while to get the toys collected, too. And it wouldn't do to deltver them at the house down the alley. If Jess Jordan was on one of his holiday sprees, he’d put his foot through a drum as quickly as he would look at it. George’s big brown eyes were on her. He drew a step nearer and laid a hand on her knee. “Could you fix it?” he asked anxiously. An idea jumped into her head, but she hesitated. All the relatives were coming for a New Year dinner next day. It was to be a gala affair, al- most as big as Christmas. Billy was the only grandchild. Then the hand on the Fknee pressed ever so little. “‘Could your~ She smiled down and patted the rough little hand. i . “Can I? Just you wait and see! IN get word to Santa Claus that he should drive his reindeer back tonight and bring those presents that he didn't leave for you. When he didn't get your letter I guess he didn't know where to take them. And I'm going down to talk to your parents tonight.” “Not the old man!” “Yes, both of them. I'm going to ask if’ you can't spend. tonight and tomor- row with us. And T'll just tell Santa Claus to bring your things to our house. T'll hang up your stocking, even if it is a week late, and it will be Christmas all over again. Won't that be fun?” She had to turn her face away at the look which came into the big eyes. It was a look of adoring admiration for one who could make even the Wwhiskered patron of toys and drums and tops and trains come back after the stockings had been hung by the chim- mey with the Yuletide carefulness. “Jiminy!” = George no rlor You have ice cream, too?” u Mother could fix it.” de- 'lj rrompuy. “Where's the e letter?” et ‘The human eye is kept automatically clean for the time of one's life by means of & wonderful slightly disin- fectant fluid, the tears, and the wink- ln: of our@dyelids and the water sent own the nose, paper for Patterns Chosen Discriminately If you make clothes at home with the help of paper patterns, remember that your task is well begun if you have well chosen your pattern. If the pattern has not been well chosen, then no amount of precision and painstaking in the cut- ting and sewing will make your dress- making adventure a success. If you have already decided on the sort of material you wish to use, pay strict attention to the directions for de- sirable materials in the description of the pattern. If these directions say the pattern is suitable for crepes and other soft fabric, don't select taffeta. If the pattern is shown in taffeta or other | material of substantial sort, don't expect to be successful in using that pattern in making up a frock of chiffon. Another thing worth heeding is the suggestions concerning suitability for stout figures. If you are stout, it is better to get a pattern especially recom- mended for women of your build than an ordinary pattern simply in a large size. Be very careful to order the pattern in the proper size. Of course, most fig- ures need changes in any regular pat- tern, and these changes are not diffi- cult to make. With patterns for little children be sure to get them big enough. Children grow so quickly that often a pattern is outgrown before the material is cut out. Don't order entirely by age, but by measurement if your child is larger or smaller than average. Some women are quite successful in modifying patterns. For instance, they find just the pattern for a child’s smock they want, excepting that the collar is not right. And they know how to modi- fy the collar pattern to suit their wishes. If you can do this sort of thing suc- cessfully, well and good. But don't at- tempt it if you don't know and then blame the pattern for bungling results. Stuffed Cabbage For this, select a nice head of cab- bage. Cover it with boiling water; set aside 15 minutes, then drain. Scald again; let stand 30 minutes, then drain dry. Make the stuffing as follows: Two heaping tablespoons of washed rice, one tablespoon of grated onion, half pound of sausage-meat, one tablespoon of chopped parsiey. Mix all well together. Open the cabbage carefully to the very center; put in half teaspoon of the mixture; fold over this two or three of the small leaves; cover these again with a layer of the force-meat; fold over this the next layer of leaves and so on until each layer receives its share of force- meat. Press all firmly together; tie in a piece of cheesecloth; put it into a kettle of salted boiling water, and boil two hours. When done, carefully remove the cloth, and serve the cab- ge In a deep round dish with cream sauce poured over it. Kitchen Knives Always keep a complete set of kitchen knives for culinary purposes and do not use old worn-down and de- fective ones. must have good tools. The set should contain three or more pointed knives in varying sizes, two flat-bladed knives, one or two vegetable knives, and a curved-blade knife. Nails in Walls ‘When a wall is soft and loose and a nail will not bear the weight of a pic- ture, mix a little plaster of parls with some water. Scoop out a small hole in the wall, fill it with the plaster, insert the nail gently. The plaster will hard. in a few minutes, holdinggthe nail se- curely, New Clock of Fashion Takes Its Place in Determining Modes of Dress — Fewer .Hard and Fast Clas- sifications Are Ob- served in the New Spirit of Dress—Sun- day Clothes Have Been Changed. BY MARY MARSUAGL ITHIN the past few years fashion has worked out a new division of the hours of the day—a redivision that Indicates new modes of living and necessitates new modes of dress.ng. For several generations fashlonable women have been accus- tomed to classifying their clothes in a general way as those for morning wei for afternoon and for evening—allow- ing. the three meais of the day to serve as boundary lines for the di- visions. Morning clothes were further di- vided into those that might be worn for shopping and street wear, those that one might wear at resorts before noon and simpler dresses suitable for morning wear at home. Afternoon dresses were at various times defined by such adjectives as visiting, prom- enade, carriage, reception, ete. For hours after candlelight one wore eve- ning dress, which was regarded as en- tirely out of place any time before 6— and by the majority of women was To do good work one | th worn only for occasions. ‘There were special sports clothes— for golf, riding, tennis, etc—which were in a class by themselves and had nothing at all to do with the regular wardrobe. Most women had a well thought-out ensemble—which they did not call an ensemble—for Sunday. They wore it to church in the morning, doffed wrap, hat, gloves, etc, and wore the dress for the early afternoon dinner and, unless they spent the afternoon nap- ping in a neglige, wore the same Sun- day dress till bedtime. And now what have we? ok ok ok FOR one thing, there are fewer hard and fast classifications and every woman who is in tune with the new Spirit of dress bases the divisions or her wardrobe to a great_extent on her own particular needs. Boundaries are no longer set by the three meals of the day. An important up or dresses belongs to the class known as the “four to eight” sort—informal eve- ning—or formal afternoon. Of tho same genus were the dresses known last Summer as daylight dinner dresses, which will undoubtedly be revived again when the days have lengthened. Sports clothes have a much more direct bearing on the dress problems of most women. Dresses that might be chosen for tennis are also appro- priate for busy hours indoors or in the garden. A tweed suit that fis suitable for golf may with a different choice of accessories be chosen for practical street wear. The same Jodhpur costume that a young woman selects for Winter sports. is also ap- propriate for flying. * K ok w SUNDAY clothes also have changed. The well bred woman of today chooses a simple, unobtrusive street en- semble for her devotions, no longer looking upon the church she attends as a place to parade her finery. An inter- esting new type o’ dress that fills s real need in many women's wardrobes is the so-called Sunday night frock— long-sleeved and mnuervaan in and color—appropriate to wear when one takes Sunday night dinner or syp- per with friends or attends a lecture or concert after dark on Sunday. Dressmakers and denlfners have dis- plaved rare ingenuity in devising so- called all-occasion costumes for the benefit of the ever-increasing group of women who have very little time in the course of busy days to change their dress. Such dresses must be simple, practical and comfortable, smart with- out any suggestion of the extreme. Not too elaborate for wear in the morn- ing, their appropriateness for more for- mal afternoon occasions, or even for dinner and the theater, is based on the good quality of the material and what the French call “elegance” of line. Black is often chosen for costumes of this sort, which may be ‘varied and have & touch of color through the accessories chosen, L] Ir: making selections from among these various types of costumes every woman must consider her own require- ments very carefully. You may find your best selection to consist of a tweed ensemble suitable with one set of acces- sories for sports or country wear and with another set for ‘practical street wear. Add to this one or two of the more festive sort of afternoon dresses with & wrap and hat that may be worn with elther, and one more elaborate evening dress, preferably with an ac- companying wrap, and you have the basis of a wardrobe that may be entirely what you need. On the other hand, your engagements and duties may be such that two all-occasion costumes m one or two formal evening dresses b an evening wrap may serve your pur- Pposes better. French women pride themselves -or their talent for choosing clothes tha are appropriate for the occasion, an quite reasonably feel that America women, and to & greater extent Englisit ‘women, quite ruin some of the smartest of French fashions by lpplyln&. m to types of dress for which, in minds of the creative French dressmakers, they were never intended. Last Summer there was an example of this sort of thing at the English races, where women, eager to take up with the new French fashions, wore un- evenly draped chiffon dresses which to the conservative French woman were entirely out of place at any race course. The flowing skirt drapery, exposed to dampness and dust, ceased to flow— looked bedraggled and untidy.- And quite promptly English observers eon- cluded that there was something radi- cally wrong with French fashions in general and the new uneven skirt lines in particular. It is perfectly true that the uneven hemline had its source in Paris, but it is also true that to the French woman it never was considered suitable for street or general outdoor wear. (Copyright, 1929.) Club Sandwich Tempts Appetite An m;n;odoxed c.lu; und{wlcg' '1: com- posed of toasted pleces of wi breaa put together with a filling of lettame, broiled or fried bacon, slices of chicken and fresh tomatoes and mayonnaise dressing. - But club sandwiches that are very good to eat and that may quite Pproperly be called club, do not have all ese ingredients. A number of variations may be thought out that will prove tempting. The essentials seem to be to have the bread toasted and to have the filling put in with lettuce and mayonnaise dressing. Sometimes it is hard to get fresh tomatoes or they are in price. Then they may be left out en- tirely or you may make a little-tomato gelly from canned tomatoes and add a ittle of this in each sandwich to give the desired flavor. Sometimes you have no chicken, then a very little finely sliced veal may be substituted. It is quite possible to leave chicken or veal out altogethsr and let the bacon be the only bit of meat.