Evening Star Newspaper, August 4, 1929, Page 49

Distinctions to Be Drawn Betwee SMART FOR RAINY DAYS—THE R U FIGURE IN THE FOREGROUND SHOWS HOW TO DRESS APPROPRIATELY IN RAINY WEATHER, WITH THE FIGURE IN THE BACKGROUND SHOWING THE RE- VERSE. THE RAINCOAT IN THE FOREGROUND IS OF RUBBER. IZED MATERIAL IN TWEED DES! A PATENT SLIDE FASTENING. IGN. THE MATCHING BAG HAS THE CHIFFON FROCK AT THE RIGHT IS WORN WITH A SILK COAT WITHOUT FASTENING. BY MARY MARSHALL. O put up a rigid barrier between | what may be worn in town, and | what may be worn at resorts or | in the country may seem some- | what unreasonable. Certainly there are days when the sun shines as | brightly and as remorselessly in the streets of New York, Chicago, Washing- ton or San Francisco as it ever does along the likeside or ocean beaches, and there are times in midsummer when the holiday spirit is just as keenly felt by stay- homes in town as B those who, while Summer lasts, lool forward to a trip to town from seaside, mountains or country estate as a most depressing and unnatural procedure. One cannot feel that any rules of | fashion banning parasols or sleeveless dresses or light sandals for street wear in town show discrimination. In France, as well as in this country, there has| been a lowering of the barrier within | recent Summers and women whose holi- days are short can go about town on warm days in perfectly comfortable at- tire without feeling that they are break- ing every rule of smart dressing. And yet there are some distinctions that should be drawn between town and country wear, between what i suitable for the crowded city and what is sult- able for the smail suburb, between clothes that are appropriate for resoml | and those that are appropriate for busi- ness wear in town. Unless you have definitely decided to |oppose the coming of the longer skirt you should not wear excessively short | gkirts in town—because the only oc- casions when the very short skirt is considered really smart at present are for active sports and-the more informal sort of resort wear. In France the | longer skirt has come in earnest, the r exceptions there being the sports and the tailored street suit, which is 8tlil made to come two or three inches bel the knee. And if you would be on' the smart side you will not wear sleéveless frocks for luncheon 2t a smart | | restaurant in town, nor will you wear the more spectacular sort of shoes that were designed for wear at shore xesorts. The really well dressed woman con- siders the time and the occasions in | cosinection with the clothes she wears, knowing full well that in wearing | clothes of definite, well defined sorts she fot only feels more at ease, but adds to her own infinite varfety. Well chosen, appropriate clothes for rainy weather are as essential to her as E%es for falr weather, and, having | sk en those that are smart and be- cothing, she faces gray,. threatening skfes with as much good nature as those thit are cloudless. Colorful rainy-day clothes come as & rellef after generations of very dull, | diltl, badly fitting waterproofs, but the overornate, - overcolorful raincoat looks a Jittle cheap In .contrast to the well- fltfi’g. regulation raincoat and hat of ths ‘more business-like appearance. the informal sort of evening par- tie§ ithat are the rule in this country thgatghout the Summer months, jew- el f the very precious sort is mot in fagor. | Some women put up their dia- ménds and emeralds and sapphires for the Bummer as they would their sables angl ermines, and wear instead less ex- pehsive ornaments more in keepini with the ligh less formal sort of cli they choose for Summer. Al- jewelry is worn more lunnignly in the evening in the Summer than in the 3 b.g.ilr‘n:deyn may allowed to & color dom- here al to indicate Just a little tired of this neu- that we have come to regard ally -&propmu just because | We are so ent ely accustomed to it. Conservative women remark that they ! never feel badly dressed In beige, when they mean that they never feel con- | spicuous. Really, of course, beige is & very wide ! term. There are as many sorts of | wit} that looks as if it had been mixed | green or blue. One of the most annoying tasks in careful dressing is to get beiges to match when buying accessories. Be- cause if vou do wear a beige hat and a beige bag or beige snoes and beige gloves they must be of precisely the seme beige. But beige must be smart or smart ‘women wouldn't still wear it, some one protests. And the answer to that re- mark is that, whether you like to admit it or not—smartly dressed women are usually quite free witn the use of make- up, and there is a world of difference between the effect of peige when worn by a woman who wears her skin and lips and hair precisely-as nature gave them to her and when worn by a wom- an who chooses to make them look as she wishes with the help of cosmetics. But if one doesn't wear beige, there is nothing to do but to wear gray. some women reply when the suggestion is made that the color of sand is not par- ticularly becoming. ‘There is still this| underlying conviction that one must bese one's ensemble on some underly- ing neutral tone. White, it may be, in | warm weather—hardly black, since dark stockings are not worn save in mourn- el g. ‘There is really no reason why one should dilute every costume with a neu- | tral shade—despite the advantages that are often to be gained mrom such a ure. At any rate one can con- fine the neutral tone to gloves and tockings. In the opinion of zome students of color in its relation to dress, beige should never be combined with the pale 1 tones, and the trick of using with a deep brown and orange or with making combinations of navy blue and beige or black and beige is frequently emploved by important Prench dressmakers. (Copyright, 1829.) - Get Your Jars In Condition If you have old jars and other con- tainers make a point of getting them all in condition, well washed and with covers sorted and in order. ‘This should be done before the day that actual canning is to be carried on. Much time may be saved in paring pr peeling fruit if it is first plunged into boiling water. This may be done’ for tomatoes, peaches, pluims, and even pears and apples. If the fruit is not left too long in the water, but only long enough to loosen the skin, it will be cooked anyway, the slight softening does no harm. Time is saved if peaches, plums, etc., are canned with the stones in, but. it must be remembered that the stones take up needless room in the jars and fruit canned in that way is never so desirable when it comes time to use it as that in which all stems, stones, seeds, etc., are carefully removed. Follow directions: carefully. Re- member that if too much sugar is used or gummy. ever the time indicated in be \wing to & unum%‘uumm oy Starch Is Used ' In Tennis Dress We are still a long, long way from wearing our clothes starched as they ‘were 20 years ago, but it is quite true that this Summer there has been more none the worse. Since it is all to be | h in making the resultin - | Soul B il e ey ® Reve demand for starching than was the case & year or so ago. The simple cotton or linen tennis dress is almost always slightly starched for actual sport wear. not only because his prevents wrinkling The Beauty School ; ‘This is what a woman would learn about the present vogue for tanned skin if she had an opportunity to attend a beauty school of the type that trains professionai besuticians. Sun-tan, of course, is only the latest abuse to which complexions fall heir in the summertime. Low-cut sports dresses and bathing suits bring an in- creased use of depilatories and these, too, are liable to prolong milady's Sum- mer complexion problem far into the next season. There are many methods of treating burned skin. ‘The beauty Cuiturist knows that a continuous warm bath for & few hours at a time is the best way, but in acute cases any water may be harmiul and soap and water are Stul more injurious. Olive oil, sweet oil or vaseline 18 recommended by Dr. Albert Strickler. Water medicated by starch, bicarbonate of soda, borax or bran is also effective. -~ A handful of bran in a bowl of water is enough for washing the face. Half a d of starch to two-thirds of a bathtub of lukewarm water makes a good bath, one-half gallon of bran to 30 galions of water. Bran must 08K for 5 minutes before the bath is used. 1If the sun has given your complexion an unwanted tan, one of the easiest ‘ways to remove it is by the use of epsom salts dissolved in water. Epsom salts dissolves to a point of saturation and may be prepared and kept on hand like boric acid. This solution, too, may be Appetizer Sho BY BETSY CALLISTER. HE words “hors d'oeuvre” may bring to your mind recollections of appetizing morsels of tempt- ing aj ance, savory bits of culinary elegance—or on the other hand a distastetul hodgepodge of over-salted fish and sausages, wilted radishes' and watery of e thrown together and shoved before you in order to take your appetite away at some cheap, supposedly Italian table d'hote dinner. . In other words, you may be an hors d'oeuvre fan, or you may feel that t! have no place whatever at a wel served, lly planned luncheon or er. The right sort of hors d'oeuvre should be, prepared with great care and, if served the first course of the meal, presented in very small and tempting portions. © They should be provocative, tantalizing—never actually satisfyin, because their role in the bill of fare is to_whet the appetite for what is to follow. Strictly speaking, any appetizing first before the soup, is word, an oyster cocktail or a fruit cocktall or & canape is in reality an ors d'oeuvre, As we are more used to unn, the word they are an assort- ment of appetizers served on & platter or & compartment dish. If the meal is served without the assistance of & maid the dish of as- sorted hors d’oeuvres may be placed on the table and the u{uuu may then help themselves, ing what they choose. Sometimes the hors d'ceuvre is, taken ice plate. This is cusiomary when & soup is to follow, and the service plate is & maid, dish then of ‘course is ‘himself t0 at very FEERSIEINY, IiliEs [ 8 umt:d effectively before going out under sun. It is amusing to know that some of the very best artificial coats of tan are concocted from castor oil, alcohol and vegetable coloring matter. Perhaps Cleopatra's handmaidens knew tnese | secrets, for their mistress wes one of | history’s first sun-tan beauties. Cleopatra, however, had natural tan skin if accounts are true—and received daily baths, ointments and massages, and perhaps no sun atall. For sun and wind can spoil any complexion. But modern beauty culture permits a woman to take care of her skin and be a sportswoman at the same time. Depllatories must be used with great care and the safest way to remove hair is to pull it out by the roots. Shaving the arms and legs toughens and strengthens the hair growth. But if depilatories are used the simplest and least harmful one is bariumesulphide and it should be applied and rinsed off with care. ; “Prior ‘to tanning animal skins for shoe leather,” says John Arthur Wilson, “the entire epidermal system, including the epidermis, hair and sabaceous and sudorifierous glands, must be removed from the skin in such a manner that the inner skin suffers no injury that can be detected in the finished leather.” How much more liable to injury is the human skin if hair is removed im- rly from it. ‘The suderiferous glands are the sweat »uld‘ Be Well o o QU T ) own and Country Wear SUMMER WEAR IN TOWN AND COUNTRY, Color in the kitchen! The idea is hailed as something en- tirely new, something that no one ever thought of before. Yet the kichens of ald were as ccior- ful as could be and cooks have always been cheered in their work of paring vegelables and stirring the stew by the presence round about them of colors rich and cheerful. You may never have seen an old Spanish kitchen, but whether you have | or not the mere suggestion brings up | vision of red tiles, polished brass kettles and the yellow tones of coarss earthens are with the green of fresh-picked vegetables piled on the kitchen floor or table | suggestions of blue—Delft-figured dishes, glands of the body and they are dis- eased when there is no perspiration, when it is excessive, when it exudes disay ble odors, when 1t 1s colored and when prickly heat appears. Each of these diseases a name and all of them are for the most Summer annoyances. Anidrosis is the name given {o the disease in which the sweat glands do not perspire. An over- flow of perspiration, which has many times been termed “honest sweat,” is technically called h drosis is the name given to ill-smelling perspiration. Chromidrosis denotes colored perspiration and wridrosis ihe presence of urinous materials. Suda- men (or sudamina), minute whitish vesicles which are caused by the re- tention of sweat in the suderific ducts, do not appear as frequently as the other disturbances nor as frequently as miliaria ;ub?. the scientific name for prickly en ble. Old Ditch kitchens ‘somehow bring | idrosis. Bromo- | .Color for Kitchen blue tiles—with gleam brass. And the Colonial kitchen, too, was full of color. It is only in the kitchens of the im- mediate past that the color note seems to be lacking—kitchens designed and furnished when pure white or neutral tones seemed to be cleaner and less troublesome and more germ proof than reds and blues and greens and yellows. How to Light The Card Table 1In lighting your card table it is im- portant ‘that the light shines as it should for each of the four who sit around the table. With ordinary light- ing it is impossible not to have a glare in some one’s eyes or to avoid the table glare that makes it trying for one at the table to watch the cards as they are thrown. The ideal table light is to be gained from the electric lamps known as bridge lamps. These consist of a wood or metal standard standing on the floor that throws a shaded light about two feet above the table. Such a light should be set at one corner of the table, Usually one electric bulb is quite ade- quate and there is no reason why you should get a lamp that holds more than one bulb for this purpose. There are any number of card table accessories that are not &t all neces- sary to the experienced player. There are little devices on which may be reg- istered the choice of trump for the playing of a hand. The real bridge enthusiast rather scorns such acces- ries. But they are pretty. Chosen There Are Many Good Sweeteners We all crave sweefs all the time. ‘That seems to be an accepted fact. But many of us do not like sugar as an addition to other foods—in cereal and cooked or raw fruit, in coffee, tea and chocolate. However, there are many other kinds of sweetd than sugar. There are, for instance, dried fruits, all full of sweetness. ere is maple sirup, and there is muple sugar. You may use the sugar shaved on pancakes or waffles, just as you may use maple sirup. You may also use them both on French toast. And did you ever hear of eating hot crullers with maple sirup? Like gild- ing fine gold or painting the lily, isn't it? But it is done, and is one of the favorite dishes in one of the houses at one of the popular girls’ colleges, ‘Then there is honey, You can use that in place of maple sirup. Oh, and another way to use both honey and sirup, not very wholesome, perhaps, is with crisp_little baking-powder bis- cuits, brown and crust) As for raisins, one of’ ‘the most useful You can acquire a distinct taste for [. them in that way, even if you haven't ope at first, ‘And you can put any and all of the dried fruits in cake and in puddings. You can put raisins in bread and muf- fins, You can mix raisins, dates or figs with cooked or uncooked cereal for breakfast. wter and Any discussion of mervous babies is fraught with some danger of misinter-| tation. It is so-easy to say: “The by is nervous!” and let that blanket excuse cover all the mother's lack of effort to establish regular habits of eat- | ing and sleeping and vindicate her un- due handling of the child. It may be failure to establish these habits, re- fusal to leave the baby alone and un- excited, which is the cause of his nerv- ousness and not the other way around. In view of the above, we would like to assure mothers thac all bables can be fed and regulated with equal suc- cess, but honesty forbids it. There are babies which for lack of a better name we designate as “nervous.” Despite the best of care with feeding and routine, these bables do not react in eclassic | fashion. They refuse to nurse even when hungry; they vomit, though the food seems perfect: they stay awake for | | long hours even when apparently near ! dead for sleep. Theiwr nervous systems | are 5o acutely sensitive that they react | more violently to every stimulus, What- ever the eauses, and these ht be numerous, these babies are ly un- balanced and upset for obviously trivial reasons. Their exact opposite is the baby who eats and sleeps with the regularity of a clock. Strange surroundings do not faze him, he seldom cries, he never has indigestion or colic, he falls easily into any new routine mapgd out by his conscientious mother, 1s stolid and nerveless. The credit for this condition the mother often takes to herself instead of admitting that she is blessed placid baby. If the baby is a nervous one he needs less handling than the average baby and even more care expended in trying BY ALLENE SUMNER. Kay has decided not to spend her va- cation in Jane's camp this Summer. In the mn}:‘: of the family she told the HH 4 gaefet i o E R SUMMER EVENINGS—PALE SCARF OF SAME MATERIAL WORN INSTEAD OF NECKLACE. THE COAT 1S OF JADE GREEN VELVET UNLINED. Youg’ Baby and Mine BY MYRTLE MEYER ELDRED. | an GREEN CHIFFON' WITH A to regulate him, or at least to set up a rhythm of living which will be sooth= ing and grateful to his nerves. The baby may find it difficuit to - sleep. This does not mean that he must be handled and rocked, for such handling stimulates him so violently that he is prevented from relaxing and sleeping. He needs to be kept quiet, in an even temperature, for extreme changes of heat or cold affect him as readily as all other physical conditions. He needs soft, warm clothing, but none 80 heavy or ing that he cannot move freely under it. The room should be filled with fresh air circulating, the bed soft and comfortable and a flat pil- low used if the baby i~ tiny and n so that pressure on a hard mattress is painful to his ears. : It is futile to try to train this type _ of baby by letting him “ery it out.” Such stern methods may result in an orgy of hysterical sobbing that will go on for hours. Staying near him, pat- ting him rhythmically and lightly may be soothing to him. ~Lights should be dim or the room entirely dark, for light and sound.cause him to respond with renewed wakefulness and crying. ‘The nervous baby needs to be con= stantly protected from the presence of persons with high-pitched voices that play on his delicate nervous system like 50 many fog horns. If the mother can- not control’ her own nervousness and easily goes to pieces in the face of his crying or wakefulness or lack of appe- tite, she needs to be replaced by a calm, ouiet person whose very presence will l;:bnke soothing sirup to the agitated Y. It is the nervous baby who grows into the nervous child, who later develops one of several of the habits called “nerv- ous bad habits.” He is the persistent ' thumb sucker; the nail biter; the feed- ing problem; the chronic bed wetter. ‘The first two habits are soothing to the - child; the last ones merely exhibit his lack of control. They are cured not by scolding and punishment, restraints or rewards, but by so cl g the child's * environment that all irritations are re- moved; by encouraging his interest in more worthwhile amusements; by giv- ing him confidence that he has ability to control himself. To tell the nervous child that he is nervous is to unfit him for being anything but a victim of nerves the rest of his natural life, In dealing with the nervous baby or child one must mix good sense with all Tules. nervous excitement incident on a rigid enforcing of all rules of con- . duct or discipline may entirely offsst any benefit the child might gain by confc to them. Be calm, be pa- tient, be resourceful. The unimagina- tive mother may be successful with & piacid child, but never with the nerv- ous one. Too many wives are too busy with the details of their practical. exist- ence to hiave time to give their husbands the companionsh.p they need,” they often say. 0 And women—wives—have laughed up d out their a}&e‘m at t. Every Still in Favor It is hard to convince ourselves that