Evening Star Newspaper, June 2, 1929, Page 55

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, JUNE 2. 1929—PART 3. i3 Many Materials May Contribute to Good Designs in Lingerie BY MARY MARSHALL. HE problem of the makers and designers of lingerie this season 15 to devise underthings that re- flect something of the new flare and increased shapeliness that are evidence in the new dress silhouette, and at the same time maintain the smooth, uncomplicated foundation line that is quite as important now as ever. ‘There must be the effect of close mold- ing. with nothing to suggest actual tightness—indication of a flare below the hips without actual increase in bulk- iness. To accomplish this, soft, pliant ma- terials are a necessity. Silk materials rather more than cottons possess the #suppleness needed, and so, in a season when linens, ginghem, pique, organdy and other cotton fabrics are used for ar silks are worn beneath. | Crepe de chine still takes first rank among materials used for all sorts of underthings and this season, as last, there are many colors and shades from which to choose. The fashion for sun- burned skin has influenced the popu- Jarity of many of these shades, and at present there is a strong demand for peach, shell pink, apricot and other tones combining pink and cream, as well as the new flesh tint, which is of a sun-tan cast. Several shades, includ- ing Lido blue, Nile green and maize also are smart. Ninon, triple voile and triple chiffon are often seen in the French lingerie and in the finer sort of American-made pieces. Satin crepe and washable satin are used occasionally, but more often for nightgowns, pajamas and slips to be | worn under thin frocks than for step- ins, chemises, bloomers or drawers. ‘There are, on the other hand, numer- ous cotton underthings of the simple, ‘wearable sort that are spoken of as for sports wear. These things are charac- terized by their simplicity and brevity, and usually have little if any of the new flare or fullness about them. Dim- ity, gingham and broadcloth, usually in figures, stripes or checks, are the ma- terials usually chosen. Natural-colored pongee is used for many practical and simple undergarments. Cotton garments are usually of the simplest sort, trimmed only with pipings of contrasting material, almost never with lace. On the other hand, lace is extensively used on the silk pieces—the rule for darker lace, usually of the Alen- con sort, being even more firmly estab- lished this season than last. ‘The two outstanding tendencies in dress fashions of the season—the low- ered hemline and the raised waistline— have had their influence on lingerie de- signs, Bgevity is still the rule for bloomers and so-called panties, but many of the slips designed for wear with transparent afternoon or evening gowns have longer skirt lines and some- times are cut with the downward droop in back. Nightgowns are no longer the shape- less sheaths they were a short time l‘n ‘The upper sections are cut more closely, with shoulders more closely fitted, and often the waistline that is almost high enough to be normal is indicated by a narrow ribbon girdle. The fuller skirt is achieved either by a circular cut of the garment or pleated insets at the sides. Low-cut nightgowns, slips and che- s, georgette, crepes and other fine | IS MADE OF APPLIQUED LACE BUTTERFLIES TRIM THE EVENING ENSEMBLE AT THE LEFT. THE SET ECRU LACE. THE STRICTLY TAILORED SPORTS ENSEMBLE AT THE RIGHT IS OF CREPE DE CHINE, WITH MONOGRAM ON SLIP AND BLOOMER BAND. FRENCH TRIPLE VOILE AND mises are chosen bg'mny ‘women who do not affect the backless fashion for either day or evening wear, but merely because underthings of this cut give promise of being much cooler for warm Summer dlxs. ‘While nightgowns have taken on add- ed length, pajamas, many of them, have lost the length that once was theirs. ‘There are new pajama sets consisting of tuck-in upper section to be worn with knee-length trousers and accom- panied by matching coets falling below the knees. (Copyrisht, 1029 Your Baby and Mine BY MYRTLE MEYER ELDRED. ‘The selection of the nmth month as the ideal time for weaning is not a mat- ter of chance. It is chosen for the very reason that malnutrition and pro- longed nursing go hand in hand. It is only the most exceptional mother, perhaps one in a thousand, who has adequate nourishment for her baby after this time, and just the presence of sufficient milk ‘in the breasts is no indication of adequate nourishment for the big, growing child. A most significant comparison of breast and bottle fed bables, from both the physical and mental angle, was made by several doctors and was pub- lished in the Journal of the American Medical Association. It appears that breast-fed babies have on the average & better chance to develop a high de- gree of intelligence than those arti- ficially fed, but that children who are fed on breast milk longer than nine months are mentally the poorest group of all children studied. It is mothers of the underprivileged class who are most certain to pro-|ing in the long breast feeding well into the sec- @pd vear. Mothers are compelled to admit that Qeby's behavior in or near the ninth month, if he is entirely breast fed, shows noticeable changes. There is that well known disposition to waken B half dozen times at night and raise the roof until he is nursed. This is al- ways puzzling because heretofore this baby has probably been a good “sleeper.” ‘The usual conclusion drawn by mother is that his teeth are bothering him. Then the weight curve has a ten- dency to go straight. “I can't under- stand it.” says his mother. “He has been gaining beautifully but this last month he hasn't gained an ounce.” Perhaps he develops a sudden consti- pation, which mother attributes to the two or three teaspoonsful of cereal she has just introduced into his diet! These symptoms. each corroborating the other, should mean something to an observant mother., They point undeviatingly toward one thing—unsatisfactory ra- tions. ‘Too little food to keep baby happy, content to sleep all night, to add ounces or produce normal elimina- tions. Baby reacts in just the way that one would expect, and by an orgy of night feeding tries to make up for his daytime deficiencies. The weaning period is so often com- plicated for the mother by her fear of the second Summer. However scanty the breast milk, she feels it safer to cling to it than to put her dependence upon unfamiliar rations. Even if baby can’t sit up, or can’t crawl, or has no teeth or is several pounds underweight, she still hesitates to take him “off” the breast. reasons in the world for weaning. To nurse the baby through the second Summer when his first Winter'’s feed- ings have developed such obvious de- ficlencies is short-sighted and faulty reasoning. Sometimes the mother teeters in her adherence to second-Summer nursing, but is pushed on the line by a sister or a mother who is appalled at wean- Spring. The most extreme result of such pernicious advice came to my notice recently—a 2-year-old girl, still nursing and being treated for malnutrition, nervousness and behavior difficulties by a mother who gave as an excuse, “My sister said I should nurse her until she was 2 years old.” “My sister” has a great deal to an- swer for. If the ninth month happens to fall in July or August, we advise the mother to keep the breast active until cooler September. If it falls in this month, weaning should be begun and ended be- fore hot weather, even though baby is apparently satisfied with his rations. Right in line with our modern policy of advancing the child from infancy to childhood as his growth demands, we suggest that bables be weaned to a cup and not a bottle. unless they refuse the cup entirely. Then a bottle may be used until the baby has forgotten breast feeding, and his introduction to the cup made speedily thereafter. We must | have our year-olds drinking their milk | from cups in this progressive age. Seasonable Foods Every one used to have Spring fever, which began toward the close of the ‘Winter and did not usually wear off un- til late in the Spring. But nowadays it is possible to get fresh fruits and vegetables almost everywhere through- out the Winter, and so one hears much less of this enervating complaint, which resulted from the inadequacy of the old-time Winter diet. It is a great thing to have fresh things all year around, and yet having to wait for certain vegetables and fruits certainly whets one's appetite for them. Green corn never tastes so good as when you wait for it until it is picked, luscious and juicy, from your own or a nearby farm. The best of all hors d'ouvres, or appetizers, is anticipation. By all means have a wide variety of fresh fruits and vegetables all the year around. But don't rush the season too much. During Spring and Summer it is a good plan to take the fresh fruits and vegetables as they come, because there are always enough seasonal things %o make the meals varied. 1t 18 an excellent plan to keep a little #fary in which to make note of the appearance and prices of fruits and vegetables as they arrive. The first time you see a certain product in the market make note of it in your diary with the price. If you include it in Your menu, make note of the flavor. From day to day make note of fruits and vegetables offered for sale, with occasional prices. This record will prove extremely helpful the following year, because from it you can tell approximately when to expect certain things to make their appearance and when their season will lbe over. If you do any canning of fruits and vegetables, such a record of prices will lso be of great help. Limost always fruits and vegetables while there are so many other things to use for pies it is rather foolish to use pumpkin out of season, and while fresh fruits abound you can get along without much canned applesauce. In order to have a different sort of f.uit for breakfast every day of the | week it is sometimes a gcod plan to make variety by way of combining two fruits. Rhubarb may be cooked either with strawberries or oranges. An ex- | cellent way to do this is to put fresh strawberries or sliced oranges with cut- |up rhubarb in a casserole or other closed earthen baking dish. Add sugar and let cook in a cool or moderate oven until soft and juiey. Sliced oranges and bananas are liked | by some people who do not like plain | sliced bananas. Strawberries and sliced | Eananas are also delicions. Grapefruit | inay be mixed with fresh strawberries, | and pineapple may combine with elther. | There Is No Limit | To Kinds of Omelet | In truth there is practically no limit | to the variety of the omelet. There are "Prmch omelets and Spanish omelets, | Swedish omelets, Danish omelets and | German omelets, creamy omelets, rolled omelets, savory omelets, sweet omelets |and puffy omelets, not to mention | omelet souffles, | ©As generally understood a French omelet is one in which the whites and | yolks of the eggs are not separated | before they beaten. The eggs are | broken into a bowl whole and beaten \light and thick, a little water or milk |is added and the mixture is turned into a pan and cooked on the top of the oven. The puffy omelet is made by sep-ntd- pre most delicious when they are least |Ing the eggs first, beating white xpensive. If your taste for green corn | yolks separately, adding milk or water | You could work the raffia into a woven s satisfied while it is still high priced, hen you will have little interest in it|the whites before putting into d_cheapest. vith the same object in view, it is & ood plan to strike from your ‘Summer | pufly omelet baked in the oven. fhen it 1s at its best a jiet certain good things that can pad all Winter. It is perfectly possible, for instance, buy very good canned applesauce, that you can have applesauce in the ceks in late Spring cr early Summer hen old apples are poor and the new op _of apples has not a red, f ‘mmpmanm to the yolks and then combining w&h e | omelet pan. A souffie or omelet souffle is nlmp}vlr it Is sweetened it is usually called a |nvory souffie, otherwise it i= known as (& sweet omelet. Once having acquired the knack of omelet making, variety can be gained |by adaing to tne mixture creamed ‘lsnlnuh. creamed asparagus, stewed to- § matoes, creamed ham, creamed chicken, | chopped cooked bacon, creamed mush- Tooms of creamed oysters. The above are all the very best | Little Girls Wear Dainty Lingerie Underthings for the small girl are most attractive for Summer, whether they are made at home or bought ready made. Pajamas are classed with under- things, for they are the accepted night wear of most little girls. Some of the new pajamas are made of colored dimity, some are made of flowered cotton crepe. Some are all in one piece, some have separate jackets. Blazer stri) in cotton material are also used for the little girl's pajamas. Combinations consisting of waist and drawers are worn by many youngsters. ‘They are imported in finest French handiwork, they are made good American factories and they are made at home by many mothers who like to sew such small garments themselves. Fine scalloping is sometimes used as edging for these combinations, as well as for the combination consisting of underwaist and petticoats—or slip. Lace is also used, and sometimes just a neatly sewed-on binding takes the place of either lace or scalloping. e of the little petticoat slips have a narrow ruffle around the lower edge to give a slight swirl under the flaring frock, and these little ruffies are either scalloped or lace edged. Note Paper Should Show Personality Some women never buy their letter paper. They are always using up a box or so received as Christmas gifts or won as a bridge prize. It is too bad they have to do this, because letter paper should express the taste and personality of the letter writer. The woman who is very particular about her correspondence usually takes considerable pains to get precisely the sort of paper she thinks most suitable. She selects it from a sort that is kept in stock and then uses it for a long time until changing fashions demand something else. She always uses paper of the same tint—pure white, very dull blue, the faintest buff or gray. She avolds violet, pink, cream or green. Often it is & convenience to have two or three sizes of the same sort of paper. ‘The small size is used for short social notes and the medium size for business and usual correspondence. These are usually folded sheets, but if one uses a typewriter for business letters and for longer friendly notes, then it is con- venient to have a supply of single sheets for this purpose. It is best to have all those three different sorts of paper of the same quality, tint and eral style. Some women have their letter paper marked with their names and address, but save for business correspondence it is perhaps better to have only the ad- dress given. Monogrammed paper is less used now than formerly and is not perhaps so de- sirable as that marked with the ad- dress. But in any event the monogram should be quite small. Some people have letter paper embossed with their family crest or coat of arms. This is not in bad form, but there is little to be gained in this way. Moreover, one | in should bear in mind that in England— where such devices have a real signifi- cance—no woman save the Queen is en- titled to the privilege of using a crest. THE PRINTED DIM- ITY NIGHTGOWN AT LEFT HAS A BINDING OF PLAIN.COLOR DIMITY, AND THERE IS A COMBI- NATION TO MATCH, SHOWN AT RIGHT. IN THE CENTER IS SHOWN A THREE-PIECE SET OF HAND-EMBROIDERED BATISTE. FOR SPORTS, THE POPULAR SHORTS IN PINK AND WHITE GINGHAM ARE SHOWN ABOVE. Erasing Eye Lines Dark circles under the eyes and crepe-like lids are usually traceable to overeating, overtemperament, late hours and other dissipatidns that seem harm- less when you indulge in them. There- fore, the first resolution for you to make is one of moderation in living, eating and drinking. That done you may turn with hope of success to the business of removing the external signs of your thoughtless dissipations. If the skin around the eye is very much wrinkled, take one treatment from a beauty specialist, if possible, to make sure that you will give yourself the treatment correctly. Unwise mas- sage will stretch the skin and do more harm than good. As the specialist works, get her to explain her method, and mentally follow the movements of her fingers. Then provide yourself with a good cleansing cream, flesh food and astringent. and follow her instructions nightly. ‘ou must be persistent if the treat- ment is to get results. After carefully cleansing the face smooth flesh food lightly around the eyes, pat it gently with the second and third fingers, beginning at the bridge of the nose, working over the eyelid toward the cor- If, however, you prefer to use mas- sage instead of patting, the movement should be from the nose outward, both over. and under the eye. Should you have dark circles under the eyes add six drops of peroxide to an ounce of the skin food and it will lighten the skin somewhat. And be sure to leave a layer of food under the eyes over night so that it may seep into the tis- sues and nourish while you sleep. In the morning remove the excess cream and apply an astringent. To remove crow’s feet, apply flesh food, place thumbs under chin, second and third fingers at the temples, and massage upward. India Prints Are Used for Wraps India cotton prints of the sort that have become familiar to most of us as wall panels, bedspreads and window drapery are used to make looce wraps suitable for beach or negligee wear. One effective beach set, consisting of pa- jama trousers and a short jacket, is ner of the eye, continuing under the|made of a gayly colored print of this eye to complete the circle to the nose. | sort. | N a Picnics HERE is something radically with the man or woman who doesn't enjoy eating a lunch or supper in the open, says the inveterate picnicker. Perhaps— but there may instead be something wrong with the picnic. If the picnic spreads that you recall most vividly have consisted of sand- wiches sprinkled with sand, hard-boiled eggs of a rubbery consistency, lukewarm | weak coffec or tepid lemonade; of cake| that has become flattened in transit, and of fruits that have been bruised, eaten to the accompaniment of the buzzing of flies and mosquitoes—then it is no wonder that you don't make haste to accept the next picnic invitation you receive. Despite the fact that automobiles make it a fairly simple matter to carry dishes and other equipment to the pic- nic site, there should still be something decidedly informal and rustic about the picnic. If you insist on setting up a table spread with a linen cloth and a full supply of silver and dishes, then half of the fun of the al fresco meal has been taken away; also there has been a lot of unnecessary work for the members of the party in charge of pro- visions. With the help of vacuum bottles, you may be able to carry piping hot coffee to the picnic meal, but if you want to provide real picnic coffee it should be cooked on the spot over a fire made from twigs and wood gathered by the picnickers. There are special picnic coffee pots that may be swung over a picnic fire without danger of being turned over, and folding metal grills that you may set up over the embers if you want to broil beefsteak or fresh- caught fish, (Copyright, 1929.) Raffia Makes Many Clever Knicknacks ‘The possibilities of raffia are legion in the hands of the woman who works deftly. Many have mastered the art of making baskets. But there are dozens of other things to make as well. | There are some clever women who | weave hats entirely of raffia. These they trim with embroidered flowers or with silk flowers applied flatly to the upturned brim or the crown and sewed into place along all their petal edges with rafia, In the same way these clever ones weave raffia slippers. Of course one of the most attractive thin, about raffia is that it comes in such attrac- i Uve colors. Lovely shades of green, | Violet, red, rose, yellow, brown, tan and | gTay are to be found in the dyes with | which raffia is colored. The blue shades perhaps, are not so satisfactory, al- though there are some lovely faded blues that are well worth using. d it is in the clever combining of these different shades that the woman with an eye for color has such a chance to do interesting work. In France the making of raffia into different interesting knicknacks has | been taken up, and there raffia table mats, in lovely colors, are used in the country. That idea would be worth trying here. mat or else you could work a rafia bor- | der around a coarse mat of crash or | linen. Either way would be effective. Remember sgain that the chance for | an interesting mingling of colors is the | | thing that makes the work especially ! Interesting. You could work out a bor- der design for a set of ecru crash tabie | mats or runners, a border design com. | bining the colors in your cottage chin: | with results that would be really very Just experiment a little. Are Gaining in Popularity HERE ARE MANY THINGS TO MAKE THE PICNICKER HAPPY AND THE PICNIC A SUCCESS. AT THE BOTTOM ARE STRIPE- EDGE PAPER NAPKINS AND PAPER GRILL PLATES—WHICH KEEP A PICNIC LUNCH FROM MIXING MESSILY. THEN THERE ARE GRILLS AND TOASTERS THAT MAKE MEAT COOKING AT A PICNIC AN EASY JOB. AND AN ENAMELED PAIL IN WHICH A SET OF ENAMELED PICNIC DISHES CAN BE PACKED, AS WELL AS A BASKET WITH A REFRIGERATOR PORTION AND A FITTED SUIT CASE. interesting. tl that makes one m;ehu‘l:tumm: J va of this sert, é BY OLIVE ROBERTS BARTON. “We need two cars, that's all I've got to say!” repeated Mrs. Jones, for the hundredth time. “And for the hundredth time, I say we don't. I can't afford it,” her hus- band answered. “Well, it seems ridiculous for you to take the car every morning while I do the marketing the best way I can and come home loaded like a pack horse.” “I know, I know! But I don't see any other way out, do you? I can't walk to work. When we moved way out here, it was understood I could use the car to go to the office.” “I don't see why Bob can't drive you over and bring the car home. He could go and get you in the evening.” “But I'm just 15. I can't get a driver’s license until next year in this State,” declared Bob., “Some places, I'd have to be 18.” “We don't live ‘some places’ and be- sides you look 16. I see loads of bo; running cars that don’t look ol enough to be out of high chairs, What about them?” Bob's father was silent. He had been weighing the idea of taking a chance on_Bob's Ifc for some time. ‘The fam! lynrwed with the idea for another month and then Bob’s father took him to a justice of the peace, swore he was 16 and got his beginner's license. In two weeks Bob took his ex- amination and got his permanent license from the State. Now this boy had been brought up to be truthrul and honest. If he had told his mother that he made 80 in history when he'd only made 50, very likely he’d have been punished or, if he had held out a dime of his father’s money when he did an errand for him, Bob knew what would have happened. W'HIS LIGHT BLUE SILK NIGHTGOWN IS TRIMMED WITH NAR- ROW LACE INSERTION AND RIBBON ROSETTES AND HAS A SACQUE OF THE SAME MATERIAL. He had a few uncomfortable moments in the justice’s office that day, but that was all. In his the he proceeded to forget all ticularly as his mother him, “There are times when necessity makes us do things wouldn't be ht under ordinary cir- cumstances. And this matter of the car is a necessity,” she added. ‘That settled it, apparently, as far as Bob's conscience was concerned. But did it? Wasn't the mischief just be- ginning? One day he was speeding and a traffic chased him. “I'm sorry.” better not speedomete: W‘mm x:-hi new eter comes. We've this one fixed about 10 times, but it won't work. It just registered 20 now.” He looked so innocent as he invented this little fiction that the traffic cop rode on after a warning. When he told the story at the dinner table his mother and father laughed admiringly. It seems that the automobile has brought its own idea of honesty, a sort of moral blind spot, and the children are cop. said Bob glibly. “I guess I'd take this old bus out In the old street car days it was, “Look little, Johnny, so T won't have to the conductor any fare for you. gradusted. some of us ing dishonest in some things. It is a great temptation for to sidestep blame and res) for wrong behavior by covering their errors with untruth. Travel Etiquette BY ALLENE SUMNER. ‘Though books of etiquette continue in the best seller class, it’s about this time of year when human beings yield to the itch of migration and wanderlust, when tin cans and limousines clog the Spring highways, and when the would-be vaca- tioner wearily stands in linc at a travel agency, that the onlooker is forced to conclude that while the readers of books on etiquette may carefully scan the chapters on which fork to use first, they skip the chapter on travel etiquette entirely. The man who is a model of deport- ment with his fellow beings in the office or at home becomes another human be- ing behind the wheel of his car, yelling out ribald words ‘of scorn and con-|the tumely at the fellow traveler who dares pass him in a whirl of dust or who dares drive too slowly ahead of him. Many & man—and woman, too—has wondered why he or she becomes & creature intolerant of the rights of others when sitting behind the wheel of a motor car. But take travel in general. The way we push and shove and struggle and stew in order to get the seat by the window, to get on the train first, to get the porter nt.mutwru-tingc diner, even though we crowd past a walting line. Graver than these faults, however, are the specific discourtesies which we render unto ourselves on this of travel and vacation. ‘We make “getting there” and “doing” art gallery or cathedral much more important than being at ease and see! only such things as we wish to see can thoroughly enjoy. New Shopping Bags One of the handiest things you can have is a bag which will be pretty and capacious enough without being heavy or too striking in_appearance for ordi- nary use. Here's how to make one that will give its owner many hours of m’;“fin : le f pal felt and e a plece of e gray felt an: cut it into the shape on diamond, making it es large as you wish your bag. If there is not much to be carried or if weight is an object, 10x16 inches will be a good medipm size. Cut another plece to matca it snd then, laying them together, cut away curved pleces running from the widest wmmmawtm int at top in such a way that half the figure—which will be the bag—is un- touched, while the other half has be- come a handle. Now cut an oval piece of black felt. The size of this must depend much upon the size of the bag, but for the measurements suggested one 5'2x3%% inches will be about right. Applique this to your bag, and sew over its edges a bit of fancy black silk braid to hide the stitches and the raw material. The ide of the bag is to_be left plain. Upon the black medallion thus form- ed you will wish a gay design of flow- ers, and here your bot 1 fancy may run riot, for they are easily made. Simply cut out circles of felt of the | desired color and tack them by the center to the background. When all is done, blanket stitch the two pleces of the bag together wil black wool. A big black wooden head at the top of the handle makes a good ?nkh.drn::p‘;z u!: ver{ bottom m:lr(te" s ong W of a one-quarter- inch_strip o{ black felt, the ends of which are cornflowers—just one ‘ringed circle of blue folded into irters and wrapped around with silk near than a cornflower as a decorative note, a mi ld may be made with two cir- cular p of orange felt, one slightly smaller than the other. Duster Bags Were Great Conveniences Do you remember the fancy duster bags that women used to like to have hung up in :he various rooms in the house? They were really quite attrac- tive—made o figured cretonne lined with colored sateen, pouch shaped, with a tasse] on the end and a ring at the topsso tlat they could be hung up in some convenient place in the draw- ing room or sitting room. The fussy housewife liked to have one in every room, and often the duster was of cheese cloth to match the lining of the bag, all nicely catstitched around the edges. In the perfectly kept house there would be no need for these dust bl{l or the duster they contained. But it sometimes haj that you find a fleck or two of dust on the keys of the plano when you ask a friend to play, or that one of the card tables that you open for has somehow escaped dusting for several days, or some one lets the moisture on the bottom of a ‘lm of ginger ale come off on the lving room table; and all this means th | » trip to the closet to get a duster. Often books that have not been read recently are a bit dusty when you take them from the book case, and, becaus= this so often happens, some people keep & square of cheesecloth somewhcre = the room where the book shelves ars Kept. a neat little dustbas center so as to suggest a bud. If you would prefer something other S hanging in some inconspicuous corner of the room would be quite & con- venience.