Evening Star Newspaper, July 3, 1921, Page 50

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HE N A Mass of Fashions, Many of Them New and Enticing, for July NNE RITTENHOUSE, the Famous Fashion Authority, Tells of the Latest Creations of French and American Designers—Some of the Accessories of Dress Sent Over by Paris Fashion Makers—The Need of a Ca.talogue System — New Eye—Vacation Days Bring Out Shoulder Scarfs. LEWTS HAT OF BLACK LACE WITH JET TASSEL AT THE SIDE AND A TREAMER OF LAC BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. NLESS an emergency arises women do not buy an entirely new wardrobe in July and August. They leave the struggles of dress during those hot and lazy months to the worried and anxious dressmaker who leaps across the ocean on the fastest liner, goes breathlessly from house to house in Paris, buys more or less recklessly and arrives home, feeling that the summer has done more harm than ®ood. In the meantime women drift. They have bought the fundamentals of their wardrobes; they have ceased to care whether skirts are eight inches or sixteen from the floor; they have ceased to puzzle over fitting their big ‘waist line into a small bodice. Clothes have not ceased to interest them; they have ceased to irritate them. Accessories become delightful. One has the leisure to regard them as of importance. They are bought with delight; they serve to turn old gowns into something new. Any woman feels a thrill of excite- ment when she has the money and leisure to buy a new hat to supple- ment those she has in her possession. A cape to cover frocks, a girdle, a new bag, a pair of smart slippers are the delights of tlke hot-weather sea- son. One is not pressed to buy them by remors: necessity or hurried in theis choice by a thousand other tasks. Kpowing human nature and watch- ing the hnk between a woman and the weather, those who make apparel find the month of July the time to tickle the fancy of the public by bright colored straws which float about in the form of accessories. BRI PAms is peculiarly happy in this work. She has the American tour- ist within her gates. She wishes to lure every coin from their purse: That is her pleasure and her nec sity, and the wiles she uses are lav- ishly scattered in the shop windows. A clever buyer who knows the im- portance of small as well as great things sends these trifles to America as peculiar and particular bait for those who are basking in the sun- shine of fashionable resorts or fitting themselves to take part in that life. The woman who stays in town will certainly have slight use for & new red silk cape trimmed with bands of dark blue leather; so this is the bait that lures the woman at the seashore or mountains for summer holidays. It is difficult to get away from leather at the approach of summer and one expected more garments of it than have been offered, but when France trims a red cape with blue hide, it goes to prove she is not done with the material. ¢ The milliners, catching the appeal of this brilllant cape, make a hat, handbag and ‘a girdle to match it. This is one of the new tricks that will help a woman to spend menny. It will also help her to be well dressed; continuity in the costume is surely admirable. It one could only have the time and money to match up the details of a costume, put them together in RED SILK CAPE, TRIMMED WITH NARROW BANDS OF DARK BLUE LEATHER. HAT, BAG AND GIRDLE ARE OF RED SILK, ALSO TRINMED W@TR THE LEATHER. THE.FROCK IS OF BLUBGREFE, .. __ . . FROCK OF BLACK LACE OVER BLACK TAFFETA. Blouses Catch fl}: Shoppgr's 1 GAUNTLETS OF BLACK TAFFETA TRIMMED WITH LACE, ONE OF THE FREAKISH TRICKS OF FASHION. b t. should really have to spend more time in putting together for a day's tostume than in buying clothes. ‘There is no rubbing this in. Every woman knows the distress of the sit- uatien. She pulls out bureau draw she ransacks closets, ers, she tries 7 pers that match the rest of her cos- Time slips by; wrinkles and sometimes produce unshed tears; life seems to be too perplexed to overcome. And so the day is be- gun, or the evening gayety is ap- proached, with one's temper frazzled and frayed. Somewhere, somehow, there should be arranged a system, a catalogue, a tume. on one blouss, then another, she pins | method by means of which a woman on one collar and throws it asid2, she | could dress snatches at several hats only to dis- card on r another, she frets automatically in the which are easily assembled costume. She things into a well-chosen over the fact that the stockings that|should adopt in some measure ‘the she has chosen do not call for slip- | perfection of the military stem Summer Fads ands Fancies DATS of & plain color worn with striped skirts are still in good favor. Many are bright red or green, worn with skirts of the color and white. Some are of black, with black and white striped skirt. Then there are the bright colored coats worn with white skirts, of fiannel or crepe de chine or some one of the unusual silk weaves that abound in the shops. Dotted swiss hats are made over k taffeta foundations—with white detted swiss. Very attractive handbags are made of silk, with lif landscapes and roups of figures made of painted gonu used as trimming. These are especially interesting if the founda- “l{’: of the bag is of a plain dark silk. Some mnew blouses of georgette have wide bands around the lower edge — they are - of - the slip-over style—and at the neck and sleeve times of metal, sometimes of wood, really very eftective. The crochet is done in bright but harmonious colors and the whole effect is very good. Many frocks show belts running through a series of rings of some rt. These rings are fastened ound the frocks at walst or hips or at one of the indeterminate lines in between these two locations. Some- times these rings are of bone, some- time of metal, sometimes of wood, d sometimes of silk. They are an effective way of introducing a simple trimming without much' work. A good many sport coats are made without buttons and are held to- gether simply by a belt. Sometimes the belt buttons, sometimes it ties in a knot, and sometimes there fsn't even a belt, but the coat hangs loose and open. Dotted batiste is one of the smart fabrics for summer frocks. The dots are big, machine embroidered, and usually in a bright color. Frequently the batiste is of ecru. Rhinestone buttons on the tight. wrinkled bodices of some of the new frocks are an interesting detail. There are so many interesting fab- rics, among them one called tissue It really looks lik - {';'L'.”%'-'h it is vcr,y thin -nd. a!:::r. with gingham patterns, their own niches, use them at one 4 % oo \ v time, oh, how simple life would One should really establish a logue system of dressing. No one|frowns Some of the straw hats for coun- try or seashore wear are made in fine checks, produced by two colors of straw woven in little checks. Beaded lace insets are used on some of the new stockings for eve- ning. Colored handkerchiefs are still in good style. There are a good many with deep-colored centers and bor- ders of white stripes. Rose, violet, soft green, deep vellow and tan are all accepted colors. Spats of tan moire silk or gray moire silk are occasionally smartly worn with black pumps and a dark frock for the street. Satin slippers with diamond-shaped straps, the dlamond spreading wide over the instep, are becoming in the line they give to the foot. An exceedingly smart costume con- sists of a white flannel skirt and swinging, finger-length cape, both beund with wide black silk braid. Corsage flowers of velvet ribbon, the edges of the ribbon gathered to puckfir it into petal shapes, are & new detail. Sash ribbons, wide and beautiful, sell for six and a half dollars a yard. They are made in checks, of silver and some color. Flowers of silver tissue give an Interesting note to a black lace even- ing frock. They are sold as corsage flowers, and may be used to give a bit of “treshness to & frock that ls n use. A smart method of applying a flower to a hat Is to put a big one on the very edge of a wide brim, fastening it securely and pulling some of the petals over, some under the drim. Capes are made of oblongs of silk fabries of some sort, bordered along one long and two short edges with fringe as wide as the cape, itself. This is really a cross between ‘s cape and a scarf, for it is wrapped about the shoulders. one long, unfringed cdge gt the neck and folded across the chest. A smart cape of this sort is made of black tricot, lined with gray chiffon, and with Reavy gray silk fringe. Some of the exceedingly smart midsummer hats are made of black molre silk mounted ‘on sue frames. oy hgye & welcome look for severity when ’Ol'l with it frooks, ) where uniforms carry certain acces- sories, and these are placed together for instant usage. * % k% Klng- and queens must have this system, or they perish. The ordi- nary woman should have it. If she does not knmow how to do it, she should spend some of her leisure hours this summer in working it out. In this day of efficiency it is quite probable that the most boast- ful woman devotes four times the hours necessary to the work of put- ting herself in condition to appear in public. What it does o her tem- per and how it exhausts here nerves are of far more importance than waste of time. Yet she rarely struggles toward a remedy. This digression was brought about through the magic thought started by the skill of a French milliner who makes a cape, a hat, a bag and the girdle of red silk trimmed with leather. There it is, all fn a com- pact form, waiting for a frock of dark blue material. No wonder one is_enthusiastic. The commercialists do not enter with enthusiasm into this idea, but the dressmakers, those who ask big prices for whatever they do, ses in it a way to dispose of whatever they have to offer in the most agreeable M rrue, one d t e, one does not saunter through the shops picking up odds and en‘t‘l- that captivate the fancy and are as stimulating as a change of food in hot weather if one buys each entire costume outright, for there is no place for accidentals. That is the reason the dressmaker cares little for the ac- cidentals and why the shopkeeper feels they are a constant lure and appeal to the shopper, the midseason thi ng'"tlhlti“lfeeghmhfilercahlllmulltei e French philosophy explains that we are happler and do mter work if we look at life through facts and not theories, let us admit that women do not dress by’ the catalogue system or that they rarely buy every- thing to match at one clip and put it on with the precision of detail which an officer applies to his uni- form. v AS long, therefore, as life is what it 18, the world will' go on shopping for attraotive accessories, especially in summer. and among the chief of these are blouses. In winter one is easily satisfied in this department of dress. In summer one is avaricious and cries out for more and more fresh things to wear next to the skin; garments must be discarded at the slightest evidence of moisture, weinkles or disorder. A white blouse that can go to the tub makes a constant appeal to the awerage American woman as she real- izes the sense of comfort she gets through any garment that goes to the tub; but there are thousands of other women who will not exhaust them- selves and their purses with wash blouses. They prefer the kind made of georgette, of thin silk jersey, of orepe de chine. There are luxurious blouses for those who prefer muslin, among which the overblouse is su- preme. It is in exquisite hand-em- brotdered white organdy and muslin. A few of the dressmakers who think that to ask twenty-five dollars for a white blouse is giving it away offer these garments for white pleated skirts. They are e o cov- sred with French . ending | They are made of gray crepe de chine | AY STAR, WASHINGTON, D C, JULY 3, 1921—PART 4. in & broad, tight walstbund which | buttons at each side. * ¥ ¥ ¥ HERE are other blouses which do | not demand such tender care.| and drop to the hips, where they are tightly confined by an embroidercd band that ties with sash ends at cach side. The surface of the blouge is em- broidered with blue Japanese irie. The neutral blomses offered for sev- eral kinds of skirts and suits are of the ocolor the French call “blondc™ and we call champagne. Phey are | faint in tone, soft of texture and fin- ished with immensely broad collars with scalloped edges, hand-embroid- ered. These collars are {nteresting. They are seen on the new and ex- pensive blouses_tbat Paris sends to this country. Thelr peculiarity s that they are wide enough for Gapes. A woman must know they aré not to be worm over the shoulders, but neatly folded into flat stoles to hang over the chest. It makes all the difference in the world in the way this huge collar is adjusted. Flat over the shoulders, it is impossible; precisely folded, it is entirely at- tractive. France does not send blouses with the boai-line decolletage, although she insists upon retaining this oval opening in her one-plece crepe de chine frocks. On blouses she puts voluminous collars that atone, in a measure, for the transparency of the crepe material used. noe originated, and America copied and put out in large quanti- tiss, a type of overblouse that began its life at Monte Carlo, and is spend- ing its middle age at the resorts, general and exclusive, In this country. It is built from a heavy quality of silk jersey cut in a straight line to the +hips; there is a round neck line that deepens in front, and el- bow sleeves. It 18 embroidered in a simple de- sign at the edges with tiny French dots done in_contrasting colored wi It is sufficiently opaque to be worn over a camisole s0 that one does not have to bother with a lin- ing to match its coloring; it is suffi- clently cool to wear under a coat; It is woven in an astenishing variety ol"t.:ollor-. 5 5 not only added to cgat suits, but worn with knife-pleated flannel and poplin skirts. A string girdle of the material is offered with the blouse, but capricious women give to it a clever touch of individuality by different belts, some of bright colors, others made of plaited ribbon in metal or mohair. * % % ¥ WBEREVER one shops for inci- dentals these days, some per- suasive person offers a new kind of scarf, with the explanation given free that all the world is wearing this accessory, and that they brighten any costume worn outside the city streets. France, with the Swiss resorts so near, also those cool English chan- nel towns luring the tourist, finds in the shoulder scarf a delightful way to use up surplus ingenuity, and possibly utilize odds and ends of at tractive fabrics left from the season’s output. One sugh trifle carried to the fashionable haunts supported by the American tourists who have disem- serge, wide and long, with black and white grapes applied to its ends. This fruit is formed from patent leather and soft kid, showing again Days SMART BLUE AND WHITE ,GEORGETTE BLOUSE WORN WITH DARK BLUE SERGE SUIT. THE HAT IS OF BLUE STRAW TRIMMED WITH A BLUE RIBBON BOW. that Paris has not finished with leather. Evidently she could not get all she wanted of it for her season's clothes, or she foupd it too expensive for her purposes, for £he offset the lack of it by developing a process that gives to materlals the appearance of pol- ished leather. “Cire,” “lacquered,” “varnished” are the three words one hears whenever materials are dis- cussed. It {s difficult to get away WOMEN in the Public Eye Mrs. Nicholas Longworth BY MARGARET B. DOWNING. The glamor of the name of Roose- velt still continues to make Represen- tative Nicholas Longworth, who mar- ried Miss Alice, elder daughter of the former President, an object of much popular curiosity. Visitors to the gal- leries of the House of Representatives rever fail to ask that Mr. Longworth be pointed out. If visitors to the Sen- ate gailery but knew it, they could, as a usual thing, look upon Mrs. Long- worth herself, for she is one of the indefatigable attendants on the de- bates in the smaller chamber. She has frequently explained that ghe lis- tens to Senate proceedings rather than to the House merely because she can hear better, and because the pro- cedure ‘is less evolved and more close- 1y to be followed. Mrs. Longworth has the reputation of being an astute politician, and one who can conversg on the fine points of legislation and predict things P N | | from some expression of this new tashion. A strip of ribbon, an open rose, a spray of swiriing leaves, a row cf triangles. a Lunch of crapes, three apples on a s 1. are the curious devices through which the PFrench express their aelight for using highly shinning material. They have de- | veloped this process to perfection. | They intend to use it for all it worth while the fashion is good. MRS, NICHOLAS LONGSWORTH. which come true. Years ago she achieved the distinction of being one of the best gowned women in Wash- ington. Mrs. Longworth, during her father's occupancy of the White House, and for years after, took little interest in affairs of state. It is only since the war that she began to study politica national and international. As a flve-minute speaker in favor of liberty bonds, Mrs. Longworth made her debut before the public, and very soon she developed a crisp, original way of placing her arguments which won her instant recognition. Under %0 able a teacher as Mrs. Medill Mc- Cormick, she took lessons in political speaking, and during the last cam- paign she spoke from the stump in her husband's district, and through the summer in various resorts which she was visiting. She won her laurels and this year has seen Mrs. Longworth an earnest, faithful student ‘of politics as played in the legislative halls. She goes to the Capitol every morning with MM Longworth, but leaves him at ti House entrance and proceeds to the Bemate galleries. She has several eands to the private galleries, Senator Knox having made over a seat perma- nently gince Mrs. Knox rarely attends the sessions. Mrs. Longworih passes most of the afternoon !istening to the addresses, frequently makes notes and is always provided with the Con- gressiona! Record ef the day pre- vious. Along about 2:30 er 3 o'clock Mr. Longworth saunters in and the {two go to luncheon, sometimes with | riends on the Senate side, but more .frequently in t Much curiogply has been expressed as to the real reason for Mrs. Long- worl's daily and prolonged visits to the Senate. She denies that she is | shaping u carcer and seems perfectly !content that Mr. Longworth should {wear the layrels for the family and {that young Theodore should gather ithem for the Roosevelts. Mrs. Long- worth has spent four-fifths of her life in Waoshington, coming here a small child. when her father w civil service commissioner, and T turning her opening teens when he was_assistant seoretary of the Navy. She was just seventeen when Theodore Roosevel: became President, ‘and her debut. undisputed leadership and brilliant marriage are all part of Washington's social history. House cafe. Things You’ll Like to There will probably be small pieces of dimity or lawn left from Dotiy's new frock. Cut these iuto small squares, mine or ten inches on each side. Roll the cdges and crochet & narrow picot edge in mercerized cot- ton. Haye it match the colors of the flowers or figures in the design of the material. (If there are small nicces of silk left from other frocks use them in the saime way.) If you eni- broider- Doity's initial in the corncr she will Jove her handkerchief-tos WHITE SERGE SCARF WITH BLACK AND WHITE GRAPES APPLIQUED | match trock even more. IN PATENT LEATHER AND XID, 4 (Cepyright, 19213

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