The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 1, 1906, Page 15

fect carriage ,_ dnd go to e of mo- haracteris- extent In the manner in You could neve maker tells m here 15 a ble wear out th yes worn down and with the ed up, no meens e middie sure titul girl in h every ap- 5 , will stride down the st r arms like mill wheels, a ywed upon her are not . e may m indulating m »f the hipe only meant for the ve may- hold e . upper ; too far back, or two E the fashion called the nd of two years ago, and as it deserved, a natural for toe The kangaroo, the hockey and the col- lege walk are only for the girl- who e her natural awkwardness affectation. To walk correctly, althfully, gracefully, the body should free, and nc cture of any kind should be allc d, mnelther tight cor- ig collars, tignt bands or armholes. They should be (O s E have all tried to please her and made dead flat failures of the effort; we have all tried to concillate her, and felt like fools for our pains; we have all tried to placate her, and snubbed or whined into a state of quiescence; we have all tried to in- est her, and been treated with the nt indulgence accorded harmless veciles. 1In fact we have all dene and tried to do everything, even be- yond the limit of making fools of our- selves in sacrificial endurance, and have received only the mild condescension that suffering virtue accords the ac- knowledged sinner. and yet, no matter from what standpoint we view her, the fact remains that the Injured woman is always hoisted on such a seif-erect- ed pedestal of injured innocence as allows her the privilege of looking down on poor ordinary mortals. with a lofty disdain that carries a heavy amalgam of pitying contempt. The injured woman through a merci- ful dispensation is a type rvather than a class. an individual, ste strains our for- bearance to the !imit, and were she a class, sive' would tax our patience- until we were thoroughly ripe for heaven if some excusable profanity did not side- track us for the other end of the line. Some people are born with a bunch of grievances that they never seem B o comfortable end, last of all, one's shoes should be amply large and fit easily and naturally. The one-time heavy, flat, common sense shoe has given place to a shoe built on a bstter plan with a heel at least an inch high, and an arch that is fitted to support the arch of the foot. No woman can be graceful if she plunges along or walks. jerkily, Nor can good results follow walking against time, as we are only too prone to do in these strenuous times.. Again, many women take short, choppy steps. These make the galt awkward, besides being a strain on the nerve power of the. walker. The ideal step is fairly long, just long enough to be comfortable, never long to be able to estape from. They appear to be entangled and wired up with an assortment of herrors that shobts out electrical displays of ~feelings . that would ‘put the most reckless weather man to the blush. They are weather vanes calculated to’ make any freaks of weather vain, having all .the gradag tions with which the elements at times refresh and puzzle us. - - Rainstorms of tears; impenetrahle snow storms through which yeu can- not see, hénce cannot be sure of what may happen. Foggy spells that leave vou chilled to the bone—cloudy days that presage Unutterable things, breezy winds cavorting from any-and every point of the compass, and ohce in a while the scene varies and a cyclone takes you off - yofir feet, leaving - you in humble cogitation as to where you are “at,” while at rare intervals a flood of sunshine breaks through as a sur- prise party that keeps you busy guess- ing whether it beé the real thing or a pyrotechnic display that ran amuck forgetting that ‘the Fourth of July was long overdue. e And this is really a moving ‘chromo of the injured woman. She Is about as reliable as'a spoiled kitten, who will purr and nestle close- ly at one moment, and at the next give the stinging scratch that proves that her veivet paws are the dainty soft coverlets of the Jancet-like claws. She is as loving- as thls self-same kitten that wants to be fondled one moment, but on the next is spiteful and danzer- THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY WY, [ 7 enough to give the idea of a mannish or atagy stride. The leg should swing freély from the hip, but without holding the knees stiff. As soon as the knee is stiff, just so soon the walk becomes military, and when the leg is ‘moved without elasticity from the hip thewalk is termed old or inflexible. In walking correctly the body is bent slightly from the walst. The waist muscles shouid be held up, and the chest erect and “leading,” ‘as Delsarte tells us. A beautiful walk -should comprise a series of mévements, one melting into the other, without any apparent break. The women who walk best in the world are the peasant women, wWho are uged to carrying baskets or loads on their heads, and this suggestion is-an excellent one to use when practicing. Set a book in perfect balance on the top ‘of the head and try to walk with- out letting it drop off. You will learn in this way to keep the head erect and the body perfectly polsed. To acquire the free untrammeléd step, the follow- ing exercise i1s useful, and will at the same time reduce the size of the hips P when they are too large, and on the othér hand' develop them where it is riecessary. Stand en a footstool or box. ~Hold firmly to a chair or to some solid object. Let one foot hang down on the side of the hassock. Stretch it out as far as possible and then swing it back- ward and forward. Exercise first one foot and then the other alternately, giving as much of & swing and stretch as possible. A great deal has been written and said about the proper amount of exer- cise and the proper length of a walk for womén. That every woman should walk, goes without saying, but it is just as bad to walk too much as too COLONEL KRATE DISCUSSES THE fi ous, and thus throughout -her moods’ she yuns iske the weather, tearful, gloomy, depressing or sunny, and llke the cat, lovable, cross-grained or re- vengeful as her fitful fancy varfes, and no reasen.or no motive ean he assigned or guessed for the varlability. As & young girl, the injured creature 16 a terror. A Young people love brightness. They love one whose amiabllity and pleasing instincts are an assured fact. They will seek such a one to share their pleasutes, . for in this regard youth is not always as ulflrn as many would have us believe, for it loves youth for the very laughter-loving brightness of all things youthful, and the young girl who cannot or will not be happy will be shunned by those Wwhose youth has as yet kept them strangers to SOorrow. The young girl whom nothing pleases and who recognizes a snub or a slight in every thoughtless word or act of associates will soon be spotted out and will be overlooked when plans are made and parties suggested for any pleasur- able excursions. - There are to0 many lovable people whom one meets every day for one to bother with’ the Imjured creature who carries about her a foggy, uncertain utmovpher? - The mother who is always injured has a horrible influence over the lives ana spirits of her children. She never pleased and every effort of her willing brood brings only a whine as ¢old and unsympathetic as a November Mttle, and women must suit themselves inaividually in this matter, The woman who in her own home is constantly walkingup and down stairs, running to and fro, would certainly be unwise to try -a regular fiye-mile walk daily and would find it more exhausting than in- wvigorating and tonic in its effects. The woman who has many steps to take during the day needs a w like every one else, but it must be a short one. and diverting and relaxing rather 2Ban a rigorous exercise. During her walk she should try to get away from the nervofis tension under which she is usually working. She ‘ should take ihings easily; she should learn how! to stroll, that most calming and delight- Nothing is as good for as the ability to walk slow- 1y and steadily.. It is far removed from the Amefican woman's tempérament, yet every women should cultivate the a walking leisurely. In-slow move- ments she will find grace and harmony of carriage and what is even more to be desired, she will have an opportunity to enjoy calmly the patural beauti€s around her, for it is to be hfped that our girl takes her stroll in the park, if she lives in a big city, and that she keeps her eyes open to all the loveliness greeting her on every hand. Most women when walking give one the impression of undergoing penance. They make hasts to get over the ground and are entirely oblivious of their sur- roundings. This is the walk prescribed by the family physician, probably as a liver shaker, and taken as a bitter medicine, to be hustled through as soon possible. This is not the walk tha beautifies the body or brightens one’s life, and yet that is what walking should be. Whenever you take your walks abroad think a little more of yourself and less of your hurry to get over the ground. Watch your reflection in the windows of the shops, watch your shadow as’it falls, and see whether its lines are’ graceful or the contrary; whether yom are bending backward, aggressively or gracefully forward. Wateh’ for the fall of the foot, see whether you are resting your weight on the bail of the foot, whether you are toeing in or out, and, above all things, observe whether you are get- ting to enjoy the rhythmlc fall of your steps, for it's the girl who keeps step, whether slow or in quick time, who wins in a walk. It is in a frou-frou boudoir—« dream in white and gold, with low, luxurious divans, chalrs in which one can almost bury ene's self, mirrors reaching from ficor to celling and various odd decora- tive conceits—that the walking class meets. The professor, who, by the way, is a woman, first discovers what her puplle’ particular crrme against grace may be, and then orders them out of corsets and into loose gowns. And the walking lessons—how are they conducted? First, the neophyte 15 taught to stand perfectly still on a straight line, so that the inside of the ball of the foot touches a mark made on the floor. Then these pretty maids-and matrons, all “toeing the mark,” sway their bodles back and forth, without moving the feet, or los- ing balanee. This {s a much more diffcult feat than one might imagine, the human body having been s0 long accustomed to toppling through life that the power of balancing is utterly lost. The class is néxt taught to draw olr- cles with the points of the toes, and to kick—this to develop the muscular power. When first Introduced, this exercise 13- greeted with numerous “oh: nd hs,” and “I really can’t do that” It i8° quite simple, however, ltke many other things when once you know how. As all these damsels nod and sway and bow, it makes one guite dizzy to upon them, but the exercise is the best In the world for giving to the walst and limbs elasticity and flexibil- ity, which are absolutely necessary to the charm of carriage which distin- guishes one woman from another. These Dianas nex{ take their lesson in standing correctly. Shoulders and hips are well drawn back; the chest thrown out, and the chin' drawn in. Chest, chin, lips and toes must come on one line. Shoulders, hips ana ankle joints must 8150 be kept upon cne line. But the fact must be emphasized that the shoulders must not be drawn back of the ‘hip-joint line, there being no force, beauty or naturalness in shoul- ders excessively drawn backward, at high temsion. In throwing out the chest the protrusion must not be ex- aggerated to a grotesque and unnatural degree. The knees are drawn in firmly; if sllowed to bend a general tumble-~ down fiabbiness of the whole personal expression is produced, the proportion- ate tensfon or laxity of the muscles of the body meking its music or expres- slon. NOOOSITOEONTECTGE000500058 NJURED WOMAN. The weight must be on the balls of the feet, with the heels resting lightly on the figor, or rather, barely fouching the floar, so that a sheet of paper coul® be slipped under them. In this position, if you can sway easily backward and forward, you are standing properly. Walking on the heels gives ugly pro- tuberant abdomens and strained nerves. Ot course the toes must be turned out, but not ekcessively. With toes pointed out, and by stepping out upon them, one assumes an entirely differ- ent and more graceful gait than In any other way. The valye of the outward turn of the toes lies not merely In an eusier walk and an increased strength- ening of the limbs, byt in the influénce oyer the abdominal region; an in-toed habit encourages a contraction, which is most undesirabld; it also Increases the tendency to an inward turn of the knees. With weak ankles and flabby calf ne -ene can either stand correctly or wdlk properly; to strengthen these membérs - nothing is moere benefcial than the heel and toe movement. First, don low. soft, flexible shoes, take correct standing position. Rise slowly oh toes as far as possible, and kiyp the position for a second; then lower slowly. Holding the héels to- gether helps to keep the balance. Un- less one is careful there is a tendency to turn on the sides of the feet, which ‘must not be allowed for a moment. Try this movement for 10 or 15 min- utes. The following day there will 5 propably be a distinct feeling of sore- ness, then you will know that you are really accomplishing something, if you bhave tired the muscles. In rising on the heels start with the heels together, and then rise first on one heel, and then on the other, afterward on both heels at orce, which is a more difficult mat- ter. The movements are made with some force or Impetus, and not as slowly as those of the toe movements. These exercises strengthen the mus- cles of the front of the 1 while the toe movements those of the back of the leg, and both benefit weak ankles. It is such® good. practice, In fact, that one should -walk around on tiptoe, when- drizzle. There are many such mothers who are always so constituted, and the various forms nursed might be elabo- rated ad Infinitum, but the most pro- nounced type Is the invalid. This crea- ture of nerves and imaginary ills ‘al- ways thinks herself neglected and IIl, but can never prove it, and yet such women, pure and simple cranks, ‘can “paralyze the energies of a whole family. Thers 3 nothing more pitiable than ‘the position of.an ambitious boy or girl who is absolutely crushed and barred out of all prospects in life because of the vagarlies of one whose morbid fan- clés creats a role of horrors by which a girl or boy is reduced to a state worse than slavery. I have known the brightest of girls to be sacrificed most wantonly by the utter - selfishness of mothers who thought themselves saints with but one object in life which was to keep a daughter in abject sur-- veillance. Qne such, lovely, lovable, dainty and accomplished, possessing 4 voice of un- usual power, range and sweetness, was through her filial devotion wrecked in. mind and body. The girl knew no rest day or night. The strain was sqme- thing horrible and she learned to sup- plement the want of sleep by the use of drugs. For several years the moderate use was hardly perceptible, but the habit grew until the mother was rudely shocked into an awful awakening. The tables are turned now. The such suffering - been superseded by ’an anxiel both real and tragic, in which, I falcy, remorse plays a leading part, wherkin she sees herselt as others have always geen her. Selfishness, relentless and uncompro- mising, was the root of the whole evil The mother loved indolence and to be waited upon and insisted upon being catered to. She never wanted the girl out of her sight, fearing she might marry. She nursed ber fancled ills un- til they became In a measure realities, and the girl bore bravely, enjoying neither rest nor recreation until nature rebelled, forcing her to resort to such mothér's; morbid fancles ¥nua methods as would give her false strength for the ordeal. The' wife who .is always injured awards her husband a large and heavy contract when he essays to keep her in good humor. * There are many men, who, no doubt, know more about that sort of thing than I do. A cranky freak is a sorry matri- monial investment,-and a man who finds himself Wwith a suffering saint or a chronic martyr on his hands might be pardoned if he wished her in the happy abiding place where saints may be more at home than in this climate. A woman can cultivaie this Injured business until it becomes a habit, and unfortunately women have an Idea it &ives an air of importance or makes them more intéresting to adopt a coi tinual objective peoint attitude, or pose as @ patent medicine ad. ever possible—In one’s room, or when= ever working about the house One of.the most common faults in woman's, walk is undue tension or stif- fening of the ankle muscles, preducing a strzight up and down motion of the feet, and the consequent “bobby,” cramped walk—the stiff-ankled gait Aff exercise for strengthening the an- kle joints i somewhat similar to the last described mevement, except that it is taken In a reclining position. which ts easier work, as the body doea not have to be supported. Lis flat on the back, with the right leg resting on the left knee. Extend al- ternately the right and the left foot, possible. same number of cles of both feet'may he strengthened equally. € toe from r left, and from left to sight. If to toe in, them efrcle omly These movements must be ene that is, all the force that can be manded must be put igto them, best results are desired The 1 also strengthened by the exercise, A word to the wise woman Who has a superabundance of flesh upon her limbs —these movements will go a long way toward reducing avoirdupots, and make symmetrical, tapering limbs. Having learned how to toe the mark, to stand properly; to strengthen wealk ankles and tone up Habby cd Diana advances a step higher and learns to walk, WERE. LT CHARACTER 2 The first pdfition—one foot behind the other, and all the weight on the front and right foot; then the other foot is raised so that the toe alone touches the ground. This is not done with the muscles of the foot, but with those of the thigh. With the second movement the foot is brought forward hanging perfectly Hmp. In che third movement, the knee is straightened and the foot falls into place; the foot must mot be set down, it must fall by the action of the knees in straightening. Thus, by slow d grees s the novice initiated in mysteries of walking. And she walks! She walks like & Diana following the hounds. Her gait is an exponent of the poetry of motiom, and when you compare it to the motion of a swan on the lake, a fish in th water, a bird in the air, it is the birds and the fishes that must feel compil- mented. Only that woman possesses It in full measure who knows how to walk, who walks two hours daily in the open air. It is the secret of good looks. It turns lovely girls into even more radlant b ings, and plain ones take on an appear- ance of beauty. A face tint is no longer wanted, or a skin whitener, a tonic, or an_opiate, a doctor, or an appetite. How, then, may we get the greatest amount of good from a walk? By walk- ing as though one were master of the situation. By walking erectly, with the mouth closed, and every day the same diatance, be it one mile or ten. Every one knows that a walk, to be of real value, requires a special style of dress, just as a dinper or & dance does. Par- ticularly are shoes wanted which are” large enough to give freedom to t& ankle and all the toes. This permits one to walk with a freegankle, rather than with a free knee. A member of the “400” said to & fam- ous writer on athletics, “I haven't de- rived any benefit from your adyice on walking, and I did just as you said and covered two miles an hour” The athlete said he would have to look into the matter. The foliowing day the lady received a letter In which the writer made a violent attack on her style of dress and heavy skirts. A two-mile walk would have killed her, he said, and how she escaped brain fever wearing a top- heavy hat would forever argue the superiority of her sex in ths matter of physical endurance. (Copyright by T. C. McClure)