The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 1, 1906, Page 14

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. . A | | | Hnow Milliners Advise Their Custom- ers to Select Something That S Can Be Worn Later On, Rather Than a Hat That for the Spring Season Only—Pointers on What Will Is Be Worn in Midsummer. 3 4 4 R e S e i A O BY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. economy y a mistaken by which a wom- 0% years there bas of Jews established The exact e of their entrance into the country is not known, but it is supposed from a tabiet fo thei that place that ed there about ynagogues st have ap- C., although it < have been as late as 58 A. D. It is t until the third or fourth century that they are mentioned in Chinese annals, when their synagogue is referred to by a hinese writer as a “heaven spirit ry.” Western Asia is given as starting point, by which Persia is y » of tbe number used by the Hebrew . who is an authority on the yject, thinks that there is no good rea- son for the theory that the Chinese Hebrews are descended from the ten tribes, There are many referen to theses Hebrews from the year An Arabian writer mentions them as one of the sects that perished in a general mas- sacre at Khanfu, but in 956 and, %8 there are records of the Chinese district offi- It aimed that the first mil- on is never desirable, it so soon goes out is true only to a has been c linery of the = for the r of style limited exter right kind of mil- linery does not go out, and the woman selects her hat well can wear it 21l the season Just at the moment one sees very of the extremely small hats. And tiny little togues, made of straw silk, with a bunch.of loops at one ecoming and very ‘Frenchy. Or other hand the picture hat js here, and. if ohe wants to pay a great deal, one can go into the picture hat department and get something that is as costly one could wish. A Glimpse of the Picture Hats. picture hats of the two feathers, each nearly The top of the hat was One of the lovely a yard long. had ason lace and the feathers stood high at one side, trafling far down the back. A hat of this kind is a good Investment, for the reason that it can be worn all the year around and, after all,.this is way a hat should be. would surprise you to see how hats a of the all-the-year- , and Easter hats at that. In s of the military shops 50 per cent of the hats can be worn all e year and the milliners say there is a growing demand for hats that are just as good in November as.in April. Mrs. John Jacob Astor has a ‘pretty vhich might recommend itself to pan of taste. It is made of black straw and blac hair, one of those pretty combin; which -mdke up into such very durable.and neat hats. It is round like a togue and it is trim- cd at one side with purple flowers. ie flowers stand rather high and they e down rather low, making a sort of wall at the left side of the hat, a great hill of flowers, so to speak, that . > the hair in the most beau- ner. Nicholas Longworth wore a hat the other day that for prettiness could hardly be equaled. It s made of dark blue straw turned up at each side one of the English shapes. At the ont there were two long Alice gray es which extended over the top of 50 as to fall down at the back. s worn with an Alice gray gown. 1 a hat is good with almost any of summer. S other one of Mrs. Longworth’s hats little brown toque,-made of straw and trimmed with nothing at all ex- cept a double twist of brown silk. At cials conferring honors on Hebrews, and in 1163 the erection of a synagogue was begun in Kaifengu. Hebrews were invited to Peking to join the imperial army. In the fifteenth cen- tury there were many Hebrew communi- ties in China. The best mmformation we have about these communities comes through the Jesuits who entered Peking at the.end of the sixteenth century. The discovery of the Chinese Hebrews was made by Father Ricci, one of the first’ Jesuits to enter China. Early in the sevententh century one summer’s day in Peking a 'visitor, prompted by rumors of the arrival of certain foreigners who worshiped. a single God, and yet were not Moham- medans, called on Father Riccl The missionary, noticing the differcnce of features from the ordinary Chinese, led him to the oratory and knelt on his knees before a picture of the Yirgin with the infant Jesus and St. John the Baptist. Near by was another picture representing four of the Apostles. The visitor knelt also, remarking, “We in China do reverence to our an- G,y e R), P T S R A o treated to the spectacle of an im- ‘mense bunch of loops and ribbons, placed at the very side of the hat, just where the trimming will lower the highest. Nor is-this all, for the hat trimmings are made to look still higher by the use of ornaments and bandeaux and all the’ other little devices of millinery. It is a good thing that. Even the matinee hats are high, and some of them are so tall the side there is an immense brown silk rosette, into which is stuck a brown quill shading into white. The Very High Hat Trimmings, It is curious to note how high the trim- mings are placed this season. After so many years of low hats and of flat hats it is. refreshing to see the brim turned up at the side sharply with flowers massed to hold the turned-up brim in place. Trimmings can hardly be too high, and cestors. This.is Rebecca with her sons Jacob and Esau, but as to the other pic-. ture, who make obeisance to only four sons of Jacob; were there not twelve?” Returning to the former apartment mutual explanations followed and an unforeseen solution ensued. The stranger was a Hebrew, Ngal by name, who had come to Peking from Kal- fengfu to procure literary honors. He stated that in his city there were some . twelve families of Israelites, with a fair sypagogue, in which they preserved a rojl of the law over 400 years old, and in Hangchow, the capital of Chekiang, there were many more families, also with a synagogue. Scattered over the length and breadth of China. there were others of his sect, but theke were gradually being lost from having no meeting place.. When shown a. Bible in Hebrew he confessed his inability to read it, though he recognized the char- acters. He sald that his preference for Gentlle literature subjected him to many reproaches from the chief of the syna- sogue. Father Riccl was able to test the truth of these statements, and dispatched that they are awkward to hold in the lap at the ‘theater. The summer sailor has made its ap- pearance, and very pretty it {s. One love- ly summer sailor was seen the other day upon Fifth avenue. It was worn by a young lady who was in a party of girl among whom was Cynthia Burke Roche, who will soon be Mrs. Burden. There -were the Mills twins and Miss Jean Reld, daughter of Whitelaw Reid.' The white sailor was narrow in the brim and rather some Chinese Christian mesengers to Kai- fengfu for purposes of investigation, and soon received visits from other native Hebrews. The condition of the Chinese Hebrews has been declining very fast since that time. A missionary in 18¢6 found them in an impoverished condition. They had been obliged to tear down a part of thelr synagogue to sell it. Finally, some thirty years later, a soclety for the rescue of these people was established, and in re- sponse to an urgent invitation ht Chi- nese Hebrews left Kaifengfu for Shang- hai. They arrived in that city in March, 1902, where they were cordially received by the Hebrew colony. Questioned as tc their observance of their ancient religion, these Hebrews admitted that their faith was rapidly declining. At-present they do not observe any. of.the ordinances of the Hebrew religfon, nor do they observe the idolatrous practices of the heathen. Many of them have beén scattered, but there still remain to the seven clans about 140 adults. Their condition is so deplorable that they have no leader, no synagogue and no school for their children. high in the crown. It was trimmed with a handsome floating wind veil, the ends of which sailed far out. The veil was of chiffon trimmed with lace, not an ex- pensive vell, but one in full keeping with the hat, It is a good season for those who want to trim their own hats. This statement i3 a general one, but it s to be doubted if it is real, ‘economy ever to trim one’s own millinery. The milliner has a prac- ticed touch, and the hat comes out look- ing nice. The amateur, on the other hand, {s full of mistakes, and the hat shows it. A bow that is plastered too flat will spoil the handsomest of French shapes, and a chou that is placed too far upon the side is ruined from a standpoint of fashion. Even the simple matter of the placing of the quills correctly becomes an important one, when one reflects that the T PSS CATISAB T HETTENT BLOLS hat may stana or fall by the manner in which the work is done. It is far better to let the milliner do the work, for home millinery has that peculiar appearance which can be recognized at a glance. Hats That Are T Forward. One of the newest of old styles is that of trimming a straw hat with a straight flat band of velvet, which 8 put around the crown in sailor hat fashion. At the side a quill is thrust through the velvet. This makes a very neat trimming for the English walking shapes and a very neat decoration for many of the ofher conven- tional hats with rather round high crown. And it is a trimming which is not so very difficult to manage by one's self. Hats that are tilted forward are, to be worn, and this is a style that is becoming to mast faces. It was Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt who walked up Fifth avenue the other afternoon with a black gtraw hat trimmed with white. The shaje was a round one and the back was lifted high. The hat was bound with white chiffon velvet and around the crowd there was a plain band of white. At the back there were two curling white tips, while a mass of white silk and velvet ribbon loops lift- ed the hat well off the head. the pretty tip-tilted appearance that is so much admired this season. The hat that is tipped forward is one of the most becoming of the revivals. Few faces can bear the test of the hat that is tipped back from. the face, and there are few women who look well with the lifted front brim. The hat that comes forward well over the face is by all odds more be- coming to the majority of women than the one which is turned back from the tront, and which forces a .woman to ad- mit every year of her age. Little wreaths of roses will bg worn this year. They have been in yogue for some time, but this season they are to be worn more than ever. Not since the days of the Empire were wreaths of Toses so generally seen. Hats of all shapes, from the stern English walking hat to the jaunty little sailor, are worn with wreaths of roses around the crown. Aad there are dozens of other shapes that quite de- pend upon them. Some of the charming little ftregular hats are quite dependent upon the little wreath of roses and the bunch of roses at the side. The Cora) Colored Hats, Most ‘of the shapes this year are within the reach of all, and it is & blessed thing for the not-wealthy that the prettiest hats 4re among the cheap- est. But when it comes to expensive things. one can go very high iwithout reaching the top. We do not advise our customers to spend much money,” sald a fashionzbdle milliher, “because we feel that wa shall give better satisfaction In the long run if we go easily and work with what mignt be called financial moderation. “And there is another reason for ad- vising moderation. Hats this season are to be numerous. Women must have two or three with each gown, and this means. an immense number of hats by the time the seasen is over. They are to be the “Take the coral hats. numerous as the . sands upon seashore, yet so prettily ar planned that no two repeat them: We have just made @ coral hat for Miss Gertrude Vanderbilt, and this hat is one which she will wear at Newpert next summer. It Is part of a coral cloth cos- tume. The hat is a white straw tipped front and trimmed with a great many coral choux.. The choux are made of chiffon; of silk and of velvet, and they are massed very high at the back. The general effect is of a very tall hat, al- though the appearance is almost en- tirely- created by the manner in which the trimming is applied, as the hat is not so very -high. “We made a hat not so very long ago for Mrs. Leiter. It was, of course, a hat for a dowager, and Its colors were black and white. But it was smart It was In an Amazon shape, and Wwe trimmed it with black roses, black choux and black vines. It was a hat for any lady to wear with a black cos- tume. “We made a most charming hat for Mrs., Elthu _Root, who is one of the prettiest of our customers. }fer beauty lies. to a great extent, in Ler method of dressing. This bat, which was all in violet. was made of the softest. of violet straw. It had a round crown, and- was turned up on each side., One side was rolled very sharply, ‘was This gave fastened with an immenss bunch of violets in which there were the tinlest of violet loops of ribbon. Two Hats With Each Gown. “Mrs. Grover Clevelanfl is a woman who wear§ an Easter hat, for sh comes out regularly in the spring with a handsome light cloth dress and hat to match. Her gown this year is a pale gray lined with white. Her hat is a gray straw with gray quils. Quite a Quakerish garb you would say were it not for thesfact that there seems to be a flush of pink in the gray, a pecu= Har tone, which makes it almost a mode color. “With each gown this season we are making two hats. One is a picture hat, a great spreading handsome thing with a wind veil, with flowers and wita lace, with plumes maybe, and with beautiful ornaments at the side. The otherds a neat little toque, a little calling hat, or a hat for the matinee. With tnese two hats the costume is much more com- plete than if thére were only one hat with it. Very qften a change of hats quite changes the sown. “I can specially recall a_case wh a change of hat did, indeed, chaiuge & costume. It was at Newport, where the Duchess of Marlborough was mak- ing a seriés of visits from one iouse to another. On one occasion the Duch woré a tan colored Eton suit, with tiny little tan colored - chiffon velvel toque trimmed with silver, with a silver algrette at the side. She wore silver jewelry and. her bag was In silver, as wers all her other appointments, even to her gray gloves. “A few days later her Grace wore this same tan colored dress. But this time she wore a coral pink picture hat She wore pale pomst. three-quarter gloves, her handbag was a dyed pink leather and she wore coral jewelry. A coral shirt waist peeped out at'.m front of the Eton jacket. No one have recognized the suit as the same “We milliners have a hard row te hoe in one way, namely, that we must make our hats becoming. But, on the “other hand, we are rewwrded by the gratitude of our customers. As one of our best patrons expressed i, ‘A womaa is at the mercy of her milliner, and e merciZul millinér is one whe studles her customers individually as well as collectively.” ™ The woman with not very much who Is trying to pick out & hat that last her all the season, is safe In getting a sailor. She can aselect one of the pew shapes and she can be sure that it will be pretty until snaw flies. Of course the saflor Is not a dressy hat, but it trimmed, it will hold its style for wear all the season. Trim the sallor with coral silk and coral quills and you will have something smart. The Little Flower Toque. The woman who wants & hat for all the season wear !s safe In getting an all- flower hat. These hats are fashionadle eyery spring and. except for a slight variation in shape, they are mpade very nearly the same year after year. This season there i3 the violet toque, which s rather pointed M the front, and many of these toques are trimmed with roses at the side, making a truly French com bination. An all-violet toque, with & mass of roses at one side, and perhaps some heliotrope mixed in with the roses. makes a beautiful hat for dress wear all the year. A shape that will hold Its own is the round high crown, with the brim-turned up sharply at'gne side. This is youth apd pretty, and through the brim can be thrust half a doz L r only one. This hat should mat stugne and It can be so selected t will go with half a dozen gowns. The Ccuntess of Cas who is & woman of beautiful taste s, went to drive the other day a handsume e I SZIAL WAITS T Oor R TOZET PEFD DE (L A7, dark cloth gown, in a lovely shade of brown. Her hat was a brown straw, with high round crown. The brim turned up at each side and through one side there” weré two quills, one brown and the other pink. This hat could be worn with the great array of summer gowns, brown, tan, strawberry pink. salmon and coral. Women who give time and thought te 8ood dressing can so arrange matters that one hat goes with two dresses, as well as two dresses with one hat. But however the trick is dome, there must be a certain harmony between the gown and the hat. The well-dressed woman regards her hat as part of her costume. And she makes her headgear match. They are matching straw this season to the gown, though it is not always a good idea. Still, in certain shades of purple and plum, in certain trying exigencies of violet, green and pink. it hecomes absc lutely necessary. As an unhappy woman ‘expressed I My hat swears at my gown and my gown talks back to my hat. Both are in plum. but they are in such differ- ent shades that we cannot reconcile them. One plum looks purple and the other looks red. The only remedy is to have the straw dyed until the hat matches the gown. Then, and then enly, shall P secure a perfect match.™ This little lesson is one for the well- dressed woman to heed. And it she will 4 bear the color scheme in mind she cannot £0 so much astray. No matter how be- ‘wildering the galaxy of hats, she will fad something to her taste.