Evening Star Newspaper, May 17, 1931, Page 49

AR, WASHINGTON - Mid-Season Showings Offe The type of hairdressing favored by Tallulal “Tarnished Lady. . D, C, MAY 17, .19 h Bankhead, now starring in Gloves in Smart Mode They Have Come Into Their Own as Fashion Accessory—Reach Price, Which Is De- clared Reasonable—Tendency Toward Lighter Shades. BY MARY MARSHALL. LOVES for town, gloves for | | choose gloves of a light shade of the color of your dress—cream-colored | r Style Barometers of Fashio AR PSP IITOIIL BECE D h Ry BI5E 15 8 P GRS SIS BSOS L PETSIN L PIE A BB BRATETT By PEIES PN E D KIS § 0 G PR IIPEIIRIED PEETITIIN S E O PINA ESTREELTE L 0 SRIOIEATIS O NS00 O SRBETRRAIEL AR OIIBIGT S P OO ORATAIENI G A TSI VR IPIY 1 L0, S OTFOIPIOTEO 18, AL AP AP S PR VIRV 1A ATO T gloves with a yellow dress, pale pink | Above are shown three costumes worn country. Gloves for immediate by Tallulah Bankhead in Lady” The evening goun of “Tarnished black on embroidered in strass is worn over a slip edged with black lace. black fox. The daytime dress at Its short jacket is trimmed with the right is of blue flat crepe and stresses the diagonal line so important in the newest clothes. The belt is of kid, and the hat of blue felt, trimmed with blue cherries, Short Dolmans Are Sponsored to Take the Place of Jackets—Tailored Suits of Black . Georgette Produced 7 PARIS. HE first week of the midseason opening closed in a rush of glcry, with the possibilities, and even .0f what we will be next Fall gradually tak- before our eyes. It remains sh ::1‘2 ot‘tv;e lained wonders of &r: unexpl world why the so astyte and buyers of the .do _not.give more significance to n showings. T::Yuepl&se&wnlt:‘nmuln off-hand way, as every nking per~ son gid rmt.y Tealize that they are really the try-outs for the coming Augus premiere of the Winter shows. The simile with the theatrical business can l‘e‘flmm even f‘;‘nhzr, for just as the y of any iportance: M &rou'h its tour of several weeks, ‘E the sticks,” before being ready for a Broadway try-out, so the new fashicns can be gently and warily tried out in the mid-seasons. The reactions of buy- er and public can be tested and each of the creators of fashion can make his cr her deduction before going into large scale production for the big sea- son. ok x s UYERS musct not be too severely criticized for overlooking the im- portance of these shows, for every year more and more of them are making the | trip across the Atlantic for the mid- seasons. They do some buying, but their stocks are not in eendition to! require this trip as they do in Febru- ary and August. | The opportunity to observe the trends for the coming season explains the ex- penditures of both time and money re- | ired by the trip. Fcr the wise buyer | x:u not merely recognize the various movelties in line, cut and eolor, which | are suggested by the ability whlclkl h?l plt B = job also makes it possi or him to | ,declde which of the navelties' will be sucoessful, just as definitgly as s song hit can be picked in a show in the provinces, TH!I being true, the only excuse for this sermen is to urge the ultimate eonsumer, the woman for whom all this energy of creation and merchandising has been expended. to look a lfttle | farther ahead herself, in planning her | wardrobe: to pay as much attenticn to these midseason showings, with thelr indicaticns of what will be offered to her rext Fall, as she does to_the out- of-town reports of coming Broadway | theatrical productions. It is'a new way | of saving money on ciothes and an op- | portunity to understand the true crea- tion of styles. Fcr style is 8 business and not, as so many carelessly suggest, just an aceident ef whim or careless femininity. Let us start with the collections as 1f you, too, were in Paris, seeing them as they go on from day to day, until they reach their climax. Madeleine started the week with a small, but interesting show. This is | the house which made the very suc- cessful «lothes for the second vear of the “§xe Faible” Her emphasis is | * Kk k% W by Yvonne Carette. with neatly tallored, quite simple jackets, which made the outfit entirely wearable for the street. But when the jacket came off the blouse section of the dress, which extended below the belt, was of lace, leaving a cl informal dinner dress. The skirt was usually attached on points or scallops, definitely denying a two- Loutfit, A sports dress that was extremely wearable had a two-piece wrap-around skirt buttoned at either side with large pearl ttons, The hip fitting was completed by another row of buttons on the opposite side, leaving two per- fectly flat pieces for the skirt. * ok ox x Im DANA has used Scotch plaids most effectively in combination with ‘plain materials of all types, For instance, an organdy plaid makes the gilet of a white crepe dress, while in another ensemble 8 skirt worn with a plain shantung blouse and a little ved jacket. Some of the lovellest of the black and white prints #re in this collection, for Irene Dena has an unerring ability for find- ing them, such as is possessed by no other dressmaker, Germaine Lecomte's collection was notable for the lengthened street, skirts which have since been seen at a num- ber of the larger houses, as well as for & number of rather severely tailored Jersey suits. L. M. Suitable Flower Vases HENEVER you hear a housewife Temark that she would rather not have vases of flowers !n her house be- cause she would so much rather think that the beautiful blossoms were al- lowed to yemain on the stalk —you may put up & wager of 10 to 1 that this housewife finds it rather a nuisanee to | arrange flowers and take care of them indoers. As a matter of fact practically all garden flowers do better for being picked. If you want certain plants to continue blooming all Summer you must keep them closely picked—never allow- | ing them to go to seed. One likes to think of the housewife who has so many flowers to arrange every morning that she has a special place in her house to do this work. It is perhaps a corner of a passage that leads from the back door to kitchen, or a oit of a side entrance where there are running water and a few shelves to hold vases and scissors and a flower basket or two. But we really don’t need such a nook. However, beware of Lrining garden flowers right into the kitghen. Some- times you bring in ants with them and | sometimes those same anis get into the |sleeveless and short-siee sugar or pastry in a way that proves their possession of a remarkably sweet tooth. The matter of vases is one that is really very impartant. As usual thing flowers appear to best advantage in the simplest sort of vases, Glass vases of ed wool makes | put on transparent effects, not only in formal clothes, but also by using colored eyelet embroidery in a decidedly tailored fashion. Madeleine also is placing a good deal | good shapes are excellent. It is a mis- take to-use expensive vases or vasey that are precious heiriooms, unless they are | of metal and cannot be broken. Among the very inexpensive vases that some- of emphasis on the new little dolman, which she is showing this midseasen in georgette, in a color contrasting to the dress, and of plain material over prints. ‘This is definitely a tiny dolman, not a little jacket, and though collarless, finished with a band of fur at the waistline which comes up the tinlest | fraction in front. Watch for these this | Fall, in wool and even fur. They are clever because they always follow the line of the frock and do not eut the line jof the sihoustte as most jacket eff do. xR INE CARETTE, whose e { bare these days. | stimple dinner , in an -uuctL., photographic print, - has 8 tiny wra) the same material, but bordered all eround with a narrow band of black astrakhan. It seemed a part of the | frock when on, for it came down over | times set flowers off w excellnt ad- vantage are jugs and jars of stoneware. A vase of this sort or one of clear glass is to be preferred to a vivid green glass vase, let us say, iniaid witl gold or silver or_ decora toons of roses. ‘The simpi. not detract from ¢ the flowers it contamns, whes more ornate vase is apt to do this. Something concerning the shape of the vase shoyld be said Your own idea of what constitutes a pleasing shape may differ from the opinion of some one else. and in this matter your best guide is to fullow your best taste. For it is you who have to flowers in the vase and who spend most time with the vase. But there can be no two sane opin- foms cancerning the shapes that are practical for holding flowers and those that are not. Whoever invented the funnel-ghaped vase certainly had littie experience in arranging flowers. Yei the shape is one that perssts. Far better is the fish globe-shap:d vase or These with 1 bands of | the uy arm in front from a straight | the straight-cided vase. rmamfimw, to be held in plsce by | spreading sides are attraotive for cer- beit of the material | tain sorts of fizwers, but semetimcs we Another interesting bit of news was can get better effects. with vases that in several sults of black |are not too wide at the meck, so that The dress above is of cinnamon rose crepe marocain, worn with a short jacket with collar and cufis of fox. | Gingham Chosen For Smart Room | It's time we thought about the spreads for our Summer beds. We don’t need new ones, of course, | but it is a good plan to put away the more expensive, heavier Winter spreads and use less expensive ones for the hot | months. Open windows mean more | dust, more sunshine, in our houses in Summer. More wear and tear, more chance of fading, therefore, for our furnishings. Most_attractive Summer bedspreads | may be made without much trouble. | Checked gingham spreads are most at- | tractive. They may be used in a room | with plain white :ung:. and a plain tinted wall, or one without a very defi- | nite design; or they may be used in bed | rooms having curtains to match. Cretonne also makes most attractive Summer reads. It makes lovely bedspreads for the year round, of course, but it may be used specially for Summer |in a room that in ter boasts spreads of silk or other more expensive fabric. Of course plain white washable bed- | spreads brought ready-made _always |look fresh and inviting in & Summer | bed room. They are inexpensive, too, |and go through the laundry in almoest as good shape as sheets, and some wom- en with big families consider them de- cidedly the most practical Summer spreads. They don't help carry out the color scheme, but they certainly don't interfere with any color scheme, and their easy tubbing quality, their clean Wwhite simplicity, make them attractive. Bedspreads that are lovely for Sum- mer may be made of dotted swiss or point d'esprit; but they need some sort of opaque under cover, and that makes a more complicated bed covering thaa we usually find convenient. | | the flowers do not tend to fall away from each other. Sometimes, however, this very parting of the blossoms prc- duces the effect most to bs desired. Often a very pleasing effect can be | produced by putting flowers in a jug or pitcher. In every one’s collection there should | be some Jardinieres and some straight |up and down earthenware vases suit- | able for the ranker sort of wild flowers | —golden rod and ssters, or the woody | stems of wild fruit blogsoms. If you have no large and specially heavy vases for these flowers you may be at a loss |to know how to o keep them in your Silk Suits Smart— ; For Hot Weather | ‘The woman who has found and is | finding satisfaction and smartness in & | | cloth suit for Spring and early Summer ‘:vmmt:: l"l:d o kno: that silk sults are m e new thy; romjsed for [really warm weatner ® Triere ‘are aiso ved silk dresses with short jackets that are suitable for all-day wear in warmer weather, but the scparate skirt and washable blouse have decided advantages. And once one has acquired the knack of wearing a separate blouse with a wool suit, it is not difficult to go on wearing the blouse with & silk skiry during warmer weather. | As a compromise between the wool |sult and the silk sult there are new | suitings made of silk and wool. |silk crepe and ribbed ailks are also | suited to the requirements of the jacket and skirt’sult, which may be of plain, dotted or checked design. The same tendency to combine eon- trasting colors and “even fabrics that was charagteristic of woolen suits is ap- rent in silk suits. A brown silk crepe may be worn with a beige or ge jacket and & white blouse. A whitz skirt may be worn with a tomato red or rose-colored jacket with a white blouse. A dark blue skirt may be worn with a lighter blue jacket or the jacket may be of the darker tone and the skirt lighter. A finely checked blue and | white or blue and gray silk skirt may | be worn with a plain dark blue jaeket, | which, if you like, may also be worn with a plain dark blue skirt. | I;,mon. Bleach When using lemon jylce for a face bleach, strain the juice and then pat 1 on the face that has just been per- fectly cleaned by means of a plese of | absorbent cotton. Allow it to remain | on the face for five minutes, then wash off in cold water thogoughly. dry the l | wear and gloves for vacation. | | Gloves for every day and {!oves | for special occasions. You'll | need to buy dozens of pairs if you ke« abreast of fashion in a large way, wif an ample dress allowance at your dis- posal, and if you must be very economi- cal you will have to buy your gloves with great care in order to have enough to supply this season’s needs. Gloves are no longer mere hand covering, something to remember at the | last minute to wear to keep your hands from getting cold or rough, and some- | thing that you can manage to do with- out most of the time during the warmer | months. They are a fashionable neces- | sity, and the fact that Summer time is coming does not, this season, make them & whit less important. * % ox % DONT imagine for a moment that fashion is doing anything at all unusual in stressing the importance of gloves. For generations gloves have been among the most imporiant accessories |in the well dressed woman's wardrobe. | The unusual condition was the one that | prevailed during war days, and for a good many years thereafter when the | importance of gloves was at its ebb. e of the things that made the gloveless fad especially acceptable dur- ing and following the war was the fact that gloves, gloves especially, had thiog that 1 elping The elping ’lcwe as & fashionable necessity is the act that at present gloves are decidedly less dear. In selecting your gloves this season remember that the erstwhile rule that gloves and stockings should match no longer holds. You may, of course, decide to wear gloves of a soft beige tone, of the same tone as your stockings, but there is no must about it. Pure white gloves are decidedly smart, and will re- there is some talk of a return of the | white stocking to wear with the all- | white Summer costume, but there is no | essential connection bstween the two. | * % x I dark _sult or white lingerie collars and cuffs on a dark or pastel toned dress, then the chances are that you will choose white gloves. You may match your gloves and your shoes or, for afternoon or evening wear, you may pensive. And to bring back the | main so throughout the Summer, and F you wear a white blouse with your | with a deeper pink dress, ecru gloves | with brown, or oyster toned with a gray dress. Of you may wear colored gloves | of a darker tone than the dress—brown with a beige or ecru dress, navy blue gloves with a light blue dress—but the | tendency at present is toward gloves of | a lighter shade. | _ Why not buy a number of pairs of | pure white washable pull-on gloves to start with? They may be worn with your dark suit or dress at present and will be the appropriate accompaniment of the sleeveless or short-sleeved, light- | toned dresses that you will wear on your | vacation. Having several pairs alike is | |an advantage in case one glove of a | | pair is lost or becomes worn. | ., Remember that for sports and day- time wear this Summer gloves are worn large. They are wide at the wrist, em- | phasizing the slenderness of the hands and arms. Evening gloves, too, are usually wider in the arm and wrist than | | they used to be and are allowed to wrin- kle as they will on the arm. | Néw Divid . . vided Skirt “Jupe culottes” they call them in | Paris—which is the French way of say- ing trouser skirts. But it took the Span- | ish tennis player, Senorita de Alvares, to bring them into the limelight that they now enjoy. The senorita wears this type of costume on the tennis court. ‘It is | merely a divided skirt that hangs two or | three ‘inches below the knees and looks precisely like a skirt most of the time. | For several years French dressmakers | have been showing skirts of this type for various sports and there is | reason to predict that they will event- ually supplant the less graceful knicker |in general favor. good ly hardest be trimmed with a brown scarf collar to match the brown RS N S e IS B PR RE RABITOTA 131 T 4 PO OB P, A sand beige velveteen jacket is velveteen skirt and toque. A muff completes the costume. The sketches above are of Phoebe Foster, appearing in “Tar mished Lady. he evening dres tone, has braided shoulder straps match the large earrings worn with it. Below it is a sketch which shows the sophisticated hairdressimg favored by Miss Foster. Study of Chief Char- acteristics May Lead to Most Effective Treatment of Fea- tures—Right Make- Up Is Important. Sun Tan Used to Ad- vantage. T is the g1 who is neither blonde nor bruneste, neither good looking nor strikingly the reverse, with no really poor features and none that are strik- ing]; , who frequently has the auty problem to solve now- adays. A girl with remarkably fine eyes but & homely mouth and an irreg- ular nose, or a girl with beautiful teeth | and a well shaped mouth but small eyes and poor hair, usually has an easier time of it. The first thing that the nondescript type of girl should do is to study her- self quite critically in her mirrer in an effort to discover some feature or char- acteristic that really is above the aver- RECENTLY at one of the motion pic” ture studios the clothes that will be worn by stars of forthcoming pic- tures were shown. One is the costume worn by Marlene glfiflch ht:e day I‘h. landed in Nlew ork on return from Europe. of brown crepe bilitis, it lhuwlpe'.hg‘:alxl:5 tinued importance of brown, and still emphasizes one of fashion’s at the moment, the tailored suit of sheer material for Spring and.Sum- mer wear. To be smart. these suits must consist of a dress and short coat, as this one does. The importance of the tunic skirt also is emphasized. Trim- ml;\: on the elbow sleeves of the coat is fox. Noticeable throughout the clothes of well known actresses is tha n;‘m. m many d.uioml gorings and the s! Jacket with sleeves lbgtevl-ud to some e. ing farther in the field of fashion, emphasis is placed on the mufl, of fur or fabric, for Spring wearing. This un- usual style was stressed earlier in the Season, as noted at smart evening func- tions, where the muff took the place of the evening or purse. Necklines of daytime clothes are point- ed, or show a diagonal closing. Many a coat of hip-length variety also fol- lows the diagonal line, This, added to the disgonal goring of the skirt, shows the importance of the diagonal cut in smart costumes. Colors, as chosen by motion picture stars, are interesting, since now they may me selected with regard to fashion Miviam Hopkins, soon to he seen in “The Smiling Lieutenant.” wears a pink vz gown, the top gnde of georgette, embroidered twith paillettes and the face thoroughly and apply a little van- | shing creaas skirt of tulle. On the gight is her short evening wrap of carrot beige velvet with L& red fox collar, trends, due to the improved methods of lighting in filming pictures. ‘Tallulah Bankhead chooses black for evening, blue flat crepe in one Fashion Cable PARIS, May 7. (CALLOT showing moss-green duvetine negl! with em- broidered muslin sleeves. Inter- esting ensemble has coat with one-sided cape - which makes scarf. dresses have ipucine hood trimmed with silver fox. Coatees have coolie_sleeves, s! backs #nd no fronts, with long, narrow string ties. Tiny tricorne hats o Regny shows all daytim ane ws aytime and sports skirts noticably tighter almost straight. Many to wear | f s, of satin in a very pale flesh and a rhinestone ornament to figure may be given lines of distinetion. Or the hair of an indefinite hrown may | with careful attention and and be carefully considered with the coloring of eyes and hair. and hair are more on a brunette order, then the powder and rouge should be chosen to give the skin a rather olive tone, while if the eyes and hair are of |a more blonde sort, then the powder end other cosmetics should be chosen accordingly. If the brunette complexion does prove to be mo:elhecomln'. thz‘r,x. a real tr:- provement in looks may be gained allowing the sun’s rays to do their work. It is remarkable.to see how much more distinctive some girls become after va- eation days when arms, face, hands and | neck have been nicely tanned. On the other hand, the girl with lighter hair and indefinite eyebrows and eyelashes should avoid this tanning process. This, of course, is perfectly possible even in vacation days by the | judicious use of creams, powders and | slightly bleaching lotions. Usually I do not recommend the use | of color applications for eyebrows and eyelashes, but in case of the girl whose eyclashes and eyebrows are color- less, but whose type really demands a more definite framing of the eyes, I think 1t is quite justifiable. Care should of course be taken in using any such preparation. The effect is entirely ruined if there is any semblance of ar- tificlality about it. marocain in another, Sh Wikt that Tun’ ko pere, DIk oa at run le pink or 3 becoming to her blonde h:xr and clg R ke night h n that Ther " picture, ‘“Tarnished Ll:! opened in New York she took the ‘applause of a distin- audience, gathered to pay her in a gleaming white “satin dress with a short ermine jacket, and carried a small ermine muff with a gardenia on fit. 4 Pale flesh color and tones 6f beige and brown, are favored by Phoebe Foster, while Mirlam Hopkins chooses | an evening wrap of carrot beige velvet | collared with red fox, to Wear over a pale pink evening dress. Velveteens have achieved their pres- ent position, a high one, in style by way of the short jacket. Miss Bank- head wears a blue velveteen jacket trimmed with blue fox over a dress of blue flat crepe. Phoebe Foster chooses velveteen in sand color for a ‘coat to wear with a dark brown velveteen skirt, | while Cluadetet Colbert's _sleeveless frock of heavy gray faille silk iy com- pleted by a short gray velveteen coat. | What Your Eyes Tell The oblong eye is said to indicate musical faeulty or a rather sensual na- ture. while the very round eye indicates. pride, jealousy and a stingy nature. es with a !Ndhh re t sald to Ey cast are to persons ambition ai blue eyes set rather far a) P ost all agree that warm brown eyes indicate_affectionateness and a heart. Brown-eyed persons are to be less ardent in love than either black- eyed or tl:l:fled individuals. T, character, . la togethep@re said 8 and ousy, sometim g1 narrgw-mindedness and otry. that are extremely far ap combined with is said to L) | of dressing table. i is better than cure, freckles. Remem! bt e Bright Light on } Dressing Tablg One of the first steps in the p of beauty is to get some sultable & There are whose powder is never on straight who use their rouge and lpsticks just because they have no appreciate far the women table placed in this way. bedroom with only one window fexfiaw»lww ble arrangement. B arrange the electf bulbs so that & steady glow of light upon the face without easting sha If there is only one electric cx tion you ean arrange a double with & cord which may be carried sition above the dressing table ht so a that it comes above the head between it and the ror. Lights at one side that cast sided shadows are difficult, also ligh from behind that put the entire face w. 4 ‘The small foldin, powder tables they are sometimes o —now 0ld in the shops are & great cf venience for women who live in sn apartments. These little stands are p vided with mirrors which may be up into convenient pesitions as well compartments for various toilet n ties. When th the table makes a little stand priate for a small living room as well & bedroo) Right Vases Make I Easy to Use Flowe You can do a lot to make flowers| a long way by the manner of their And one of the first ites for interesting arrangement is have plenty of vases and bowls baskets to hold them. This is net extravagant advice, mowadays you can buy, for 10 aplece. many small vases of glass; good shapes and .. You can, slightly more, buy some good little tery bowls and j ‘holders. Remember that for fleld flowers as daisies and golden rod a heavy hol is_most appropriate. For the deli wild flowers of Spring, small glass v or dainty little baskets are best. And dmruu flowers’ tl rimination. heavy jars and baskets to hel :Ahe:vler ‘?“B mu-ua. el 'mums, for instance, Use and popples, have plenty of always on hand. You can clip ends some of the daintier shrubs just ,flmnery. Some of the spireas are T this purpose. Of gourse fern is suitable. But fern is difficult to in the small garden, at jeast in quantity to use for cu 3 Be sure to have some sort of flof hnlder?lemedhwua pr ducf_ back,’ some other sucl ent—to Pl in your flower fi:rl:wm to ki your flower stems in 3 With Grapefruit | Fruit, of course, forms the m of the Summer tizer. rt are said to persons of Niarary sbility. | SeG with 3 always proper face c will save yoy J il