Evening Star Newspaper, April 26, 1931, Page 77

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C., APRIL 26, 1931. ourneying to Washington a Century Ago HIS is the day of the aeroplane, a mere jaunt from Dayton to New York, consuming but 4 hours and 10 minutes to cover an airline distance of 550 miles. We are doing things today un- dreamed of just one generation past. Read the record of a journcy taken by one of Dayton's representative citizens in the year 1840—not 80 long ago as years fly. The occasion was the Young Men’s Conven- tion, the trip was from Dayton to Baltimore, and the traveler, a young attorney, John Gilbert Lowe, 22 years of age, lately come to Dayton from Lebanon to engage in the practice of law. But let him tell the story of the eventful oc- casion in his own delightful way: * “April 22, 1840—Heard this morning that I had been appointed one of the delegates (three in all) to represent this place at the Young Men's Convention to convene at Baltimore the 4th of the ensuing month. Whether I can or will go is yet to be determined with myself. I would highly prize the trip if it could be under- taken with conviction of its expediency. The Journey, too, is rendered more desirable by the occasion which calls for it. The place of assembly will be a perfect microcosm as respects variety of character—opening an interesting field for observation upon and about the genus homo. The occasion will also call together many of the finest specimens of efficient Ameri- can talent. All thes: and others are strong inducements truly, but I cannot yet say that they will prevail. There are some duties I owe to myself and others at home that at present seem to stand tantamount if not paramount in their claims.” The next entry, made six days later, momen- tously marked “Tuesday, & quarter of four,” reads: “Before the hours pass I expect to be in the stage for a trip to some of the Eastern cities. This I rate to be quite an era in my home-bred life. May the result never attach to it the odium of independence or folly. Ye ministers of kindness who wait upon wayward and wondering mortals with comfort, content and blessing—I would invoke the aid of your gentle offices as we now extend the parting hand and for a time are absent from each other. To the anxious mother who remains, especially extend your gentle support. Vale.” On May 20 the young tourist writes that “in little more than three wezks I have traveled nearly or quite 1,500 miles, and made three stops of more than two days each—an achieve- ment which a century ago would have sounded too wonderful for belief!” N the following descrlpum:x of the sublime emotions induced by the scenery through which he passed, does one not take the journey with him and see things through the reflective and enthusiastic eyes of the writer? “The mountains—the huge, bold mountains, whether far away in the distance or near at hand—what a sight were they! How perfectly soul possessing! Oh, what magnificent and stupendous demonstration of power has the great God strewed around us as eternal re- membrances of Himself. And how kindly has He given us capacities susceptible of inspiring enlargement upon their visible presentation. “The cities, too, splendid and populous, with the richest ornaments of nature and art blended fn their midst, were ever the sources of rarest pleasure. But not the least interesting was th2 people—whether moving in multitudes stimu- lated by a eommon sentiment and a common purpose of whether more sparsely and singly secn, searching the end of individual man. “Found Wheeling to be a compactly built siness town, bearing a dingy and black ap- [pearance from the consumption of coal in the manufactories. Their river trade would seem to demand a better wharf, Immediately behind the town there is a high, bold hill which, as I was in the dusk with a pretty girl on my arm, 'was taken by her to be when she was first directed to it a heavy overhanging cloud. From eeling to Washington, Pa.—an old place hereat is a college—there are splendid views of hills aback of hills, and valleys and groves Interspersed with picturesque variety. At Hillsboro there is a most extensive and mag- t view. When on the highest eminence we were in the center of a visible circling jhorizon of 30 miles radius. From the hill east of Brownsville there is a beautiful view. The [Monongahela and a winding rivulet, bold and h-reaching hills and deep-bedded verdant contrasting in a magnificent array. n there to Uniontown the country is not so bold and picturesque, but is better fitted for he purposes of agriculture. Three miles east of Uniontown commenced ascending Laurel Hill. The road winds for two or three miles up he side of a rock-covered and barren mountain In desolate dreariness. A house stands about midway the ascent, of ruffian reputation. It is fit looking place for the tenements of high- aymen. “We now found ourselves in the midst of mountain scenery. We thought that over which e passed had sufficient variety to relieve it from sameness, yet it impresses the mind in all aspects with the same predominant emotions. L felt all the time as though I was amid the tupendous and immovable monuments of mighty power. The prevailing sense was of ir stern and heavy sublimity. Nothing ooked light or brautiful. Nothing was bright pr airy, there was no streamlet near with ver- dant vale and grotto green, like to a fairy's home—but all was stein, still and solemn. The mp of awful majesty seemed so firmly fixed npon their broad brows as to bid defiance to he convulsions of nature. I was inspired roughout the rcone with the most profound nd deep-wrought feeling. Sometimes we could ook far below us, down the side of the moun- n into a dark chasm, whose drear silence was pnbroken by the chirp of a bird or the buzz of n insect. At others we could look as far above and see the huge, cloud-reaching mass, yet enlivened by the motion or cheered by the ound of living thing. Sometimes we would de & mountain covered with tall and straight mific: Trip Through the Cumberland Valley to Baltimore and Washington Made in 1840 by Stagecoach and “Steam Cars” Described in the Diary of John Gilbert Lowe, Prominent Citizen of Dayton, Ohio, Is Sharp Contrast to Travel in the Airplanes of Today. A Visit to the Senate When Clay, Calhoun and Webster IWere Making History. The late John G. Lowe, whose diary gives a colorful and vivid description of 4 travel in Eastern United States in 1840. pine trees on a seemingly strong soil—at others we would climb the sides of one covered with stunted and shrubby trees springing from a soll covered with and composed mostly of rocks —=a place the very picture of desolate barren- ness. “Near Cumberland, on the headwaters of the Potomac, we found most splendid and im- posing scenery. That most striking was the gap in the mountain through which the road and a swift little stream passes. Mountains of rock, covered with moss and a short shrubby pine and other stunted trees, rise nearly per- pendicularly for 200 to 300 feet. We came to it just as the morning sun commenced gilding the highest and most exposed places, and it was +indeed a magnificent sight. I have heard much of Harpers Ferry, but I very much doubt if a stream like unto that which passes there rolled through the gap near Cumberland whether it would not be as far famed a curlosity. As a Western novelist said to me when we were speaking of it afterward, ‘Sir, it is power- striking.” At Cumberland was struck with the portly, fine looking men I saw. Court was in session (I was told there were two brothers sitting as judges on the same bench)'and that may have brought them there. “FROM C. to Frederick the scenery yet con- tinues fine. The view from ‘Sidelong’ Mountains is especially magnificent and strik- ing. The ridges of the Alleghenies stretch as far as eye can reach, lying piled one upon an- other far away like ocean waves heaving slowly from their bed. Frederick County, Md., is in a high state of cultivation and improvement. Scenery pleasant and picturesque, but not so “At Prederick we took the ‘cars’ for Balti- more. Ralilroad traveling was to me both novel and interesting. Sometimes we seemed to shoot along with the swiftness of a well sped arrow. We wound along the banks of the Patapsco most of the way, oftentimes with ?22? —— ?? —which to catch a passing glimpse, and arrived at Baltimore the 3d of May at 3 o'clock. “Notwithstanding the day of arrival was Sun- day, yet Baltimore seemed swarming with busy and stirring people. The hotels were full and crowded to a squeeze, and strangers, continually arriving, were seen passing rapidly and in hud- dles from place to place in search of lodgings. ‘Through the intention of some friends, I se- cured a place to eat and leave my luggage and to sleep on the floor. The next day, the one appointed for the meeting of the convention— from sunrise until midnight was one—the inci- dents and spectacles of which are beyond faith- ful description. It was like a grand national jubilee. Old Greece in her most splendid cele- bration of the Elysian festivals would sink in the comparison. All around and about you were the brilliant displays of pageantry and scenic splendor. “It would be superogatory for me to attempt a detailed description of the two eventful days during which the representatives from all parts of the Union were assembled in convention. Among the events of the times future historians may dwell upon it as a morally magnificent exhibition of high-wrought popular enthusiasm. “From Baltimore I went by steamboat and railroad across the neck of Delaware to Phila- delphia. Chesapeake Bay was to me, always accustomed to terra firma, a grand and in- spiring sight. Our steamer, low pressure, with- out any of the whiffing and puffing of the noisy boats on Western waters, glided majestically over the rolling waves ‘like a thing of life.’ After and beautiful in nature are there con- trasted in the. most delightful juxtaposition. Fountains and statues in lovely variety, a place that maids might fitly choose for their romps and gambols, After spending two days and a half very much to my gratification in Phila- delphia I returned by railroad to Baltimore. Country, what I saw of it, for we passed most of the way in the night, was level and highly cultivated. “Remained another day in Baltimore for the special purpose of witnessing the reading of the celebrated tragedian, Forrest, who appeared in the evening in Dr. Bird's tragedy, ‘The Gladiator.” His powers of giving expressicn to the higher and severer passions of human nature are great indeed. In my poor opinion he would be a nonpareil in certain characters if he would only more wholly abandon the disgustful canting tones of the stage. During the day I visited the structure that gives to Baltimore the best title to the distinction of ‘Monumental City'—the Washington Monu- ment. It is a splendid monument to his great- ness and renown and of the discerning patri- otism of those by whom it was reared. It rises to the height of 180 feet and is builded of beautiful granite. The steps that wind around the shaft or column on the inside seem almost interminable as you ascend them. The view from the top is magnificent. Although atten- tion—I cannot profitably employ the space for an attempted description. Suffice it, everything struck me at least as magnificent and costly. “’I‘H‘E great (I mean in station) men in Congress assembled look much like other specimens of the genus homo. Indeed some of their countenances were not very strongly marked with indices of talent or statesmanly capability. The Senate, albeit all the de- generacy (as is said and always has been of the present) of the times, yet presents the appearance of a grand and dignified assembly. Men of years mature and ripe experience mostly sit there as the representatives of the American nobility—not the nobility of blood, but the nobility of character acquired—the only indisputable title to true greatness. “I heard some of the Senators speak. Was not gratified with Mr. Crittenden, who seems filled to the brim with the feelings of a ready orator. Mr. Calhoun, too, struck me as a master spirit, be it of evil or good. When he speaks he stands straight and looks stiff, stern and strong as a giant tree breaking the force of the storm. The great Webster, too, spoke like one strong and unyielding in his convictions of right, and commanding and powerful in their enforcement. Of him it may be said the lion always commands respect and deference, but never wakes the farthest and deepest echoes of the forest unless the occasion demands it. ‘There, too, sat the illustrious Henry Clay. He did not speak whilst I was in the Senate chamber, but I had heard him a few days before at the convention, when he seemed full of the feeling and life of his most vigorous manhood. To look at him is enough for one who is interested in observing the noble traits of the ‘human face divine.’ There is a charm about the man when he smiles that is to me perfectly irresistible. It is the pure eloquence of a high-born soul. Near Mr., Clay sat the accomplished and classic Preston, & man whosz appearance ill bespeaks the vivacious elegance and brilliancy of his oratory. In my humble opinion he is the most graceful, fascinating and polished, in his diction especially, of all the orators in Congress. Among the administration members Mr., Calhoun—a few years since frequently called by his present political friends and coadjutors the Cataline of the country—is the most powerful and commanding in his oratory. Mr. Buchanan, the most elegant; Mr. Wright, the closest and most cautious reasoner, in this probably inferior to none of his sena- torial compeers; Mr. Benton, the most prosaic and tedious, yet it may be that he is, statisti- cally, the most learned. Mr. Tappan of Ohio I did not see—he was sick. I regret not seeing him both on account of his acknowledged readi- ness and ability and of his notorious and peculiar ugliness of features. “The House of Representatives, in regard to order, quiet and dignity, s much discredited by a contrast with the Senate. A constant hum- ming sound filled the hall while I was there. As to the members, some talk, some laugh, some lounge, some read newspapers and documents, and some are engaged in writing letters and franking electioneering capital to their dearly beloved constituents. Presenting altogether a motley assembly that seems to have little com- munity of purpose or design—indeed a very bedlam. “I MUST record the fact that I was intro- duced by Mr. Corwin to ex-President J. Q. Adams, now a member of the House. He is probably one of the most remarkable characters living. Although as ripe in learning and wisdom as in years, he economizes and improves each hour as though his fame was yet to win, and at the age of more than three score and 10 unites in the discharge of every duty the energy and severe application of a vigorous and more responsible manhood. When presented to him I thought it time to keep silent and listen. Mr. Corwin spoke of the late Baltimore Con- vention (after it had been alluded to by Mr. Adams as being very extraordinary in its char- acter) as being paralleled only by the departure of the children of Israel from the land of Egypt. The countenance of the old scholar and states- man lit up as he answered with eloquent en- thusiasm, ‘I trust it is not the going out from the land of Egypt, but a beginning of the entrance into the land of Canaan.’ There are some men of sterling character in the House of Representatives, but there is probably no one whose name promises to live longer in history than that of the venerable ex-President. “Among the other ‘stars’ Mr. Corwin, owr present candidate for governor (whose kindness and attention while in Washington I cannot too highly value) has a reputation and ability to sustain and extend it that is in every respect enviable. His conversational talent is extra- ordinary; he draws his hearers nearer and nearer to him as by a spell. He has been called by high authority among the critics lately the Sheridan of the times. With an inexhaustible fund of humor and wit ever ready, keen and pure, he has become the toast of every convivial circle, whilst his natural ability and solid ace quirements exact respect and deference fa graver assemblies. Was presented by Mr. Cor- win to President Van Buren. “He seems disposed with all courteousness to demean himself in such manner that his guests may feel unconstrained in his presence and may go away gith the recollection of some re- mark that he™(the President of the greatest Nation on the face of the globe) had directed especially to them. To me he spoke of some of my friends in ——, and gave a critical exposition of the word ‘clever’ as used with different meaning by the Dutch and English, His remarks indicated a familiarity with the modern magazines. All in all, to say nothing of his governmental policy, the President is a good illustration of the beauty of republican simplicity. “MY visit to Washington City was altogether one of unqualified interest and pleasure. I was enchanted with the walks and purlieus of the Capital. Everything bears the marks of the most' tasteful and elegant arrangement. Continued on Seventh Page