Evening Star Newspaper, March 15, 1931, Page 57

Green mousseline de soie is shows Chanel's favorite trimming, mani| The back of this dress is sketched on the right side of the dress. this page. Chanel Forsakes Tra| dition in Her Use of Tweeds, Jerseys and Jewels. Great Leveler in Fashions Makes Extremes M e e t — Dismisses Convention in Com- bining of Materials— Summer Evening Gowns as Works of Art. used for an evening gown which manipulation of the fabric of She dismisses convention in the com- bining of materials. Taffeta and geor- gette dresses are worn under jersey coats. Sometimes she lines a jersey coat with costly sable, or again, uses very inexpensive furs which she believes belu‘t!ul in .hemnlvu Always she insists on the most me- ticulous workmanship. She believes that therein lies the most important part of creation. Her Summer evening of noweud chiffon are 'orl.l of flowers are cut from the §;ai §5§ g, they re- same simple thl.nn for which noted. b : § 5 wWith one magnificent Gallic gesture, has swept away all the old shibboliths which 1urmerl! divided the sheep and the goats fashion. Her creed in fashion is N\I‘Y. Anfl th beauty, she believes, is to be at- ed through simplicity and through beuny of workmanship. Thus, although we find elaboration of detail in many of her creations, there is always, in t.hn nuln a nlmphcm' of line which displa; he figure to the best punbla vln- tnlt Always in her costumes the 15 more important than the gown, “ana the two together create a perfect whole. It was Chanel who started the vogue of the simple dress of jersey or tweed to be worn for every da e occasion. She it is who refuses to nlanu any one fabric to any one realm of dress. Bhe believes that if one has a beautiful plege of tweed, and Chanel's tweeds are Ve beautiful, one may wear a dress le from it for a tramp in the coun- try, or for a tea party in town. % ¥ ERHAPS one of the secrets of her success is the fact that she so sel- dom sees any other creations but her own. Thus ahe keeps her individuality mtact in everything she designs. Her life is divided between her workshop, her home and the country, whenever she can slip away for a few days. Her r,g:zumcs are designed almost entirely two purposes. There are the dress which one wears for all daytime occa- sions, either in the city or the coun- try, and evening gowns. She adheres to no conventions set forth by others. If a thing is beautiful she uses it in whatever way suits her fancy. And always that fancy tends toward equalizing styles, a leveling proc- ess in fashior, as it were, with beauty »‘l’x]xd simplicity the common denomina- TS, ‘The tradition that rare jewels should be worn upon occasions only and with elaborate clothes does not make it 0, according to Chanel. It is upon bellets such as these that she has, in & few short years, put herself in the of & world leader in fashions. She wears nine strings of pearls on & Jersey dress, with the explanation that Bince the pearls and the jersey both are Reautiful they may be worn with perfect propriety. And the amaz- 4ng thing is that they can be when the Jersey is a Chanel model. Pins set with rubles, emeralds, saj phires or diamonds are c umg onto phnuot :em) hats, for thinks tha the hair is buumnl and she hat ll"-llflc ’"num it s lllualt is Foquired as a pe backgrol ‘the costly gems. She makes m and the elegant meet as one hont her delwun( the othu !und lh! uses imita- tion jewelry with equally good ef- THors agatn Is the greal loveler at work. Real jewels are beautiful, but so are artificial gems, and either may be worn at any time simply for buutn ..kChAnzl is largely responsible for m wogue for artificial pearls, which she nsored \lu uuy lu lovely in mselves. She it HANEL, with characteristic French verve and abandon, and A ax o l THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C., MARCH 15 1931—PART THREE. This pajama costume (back and front) for the informal evening at home is of rose and blue mousseline de soie with a wide sash tied in the back with the ends trailng into a train. Vegetable Souffle ‘The left-over vegetables from a veg- etable dinner are employed to make this souffie. The dish may be made from one vegetable alone or from a combina- tion of all left-overs. The recipe will vary slightly according to the vegetables used, but here is a good recipe. ‘Three cups chopped cooked spinach, one-half cup grated cheese, salt and pepper o um. two tablespoons bread- crumbs, three tablespoons margarin, one cup white sauce, two eggs. Stir the margarin inw the spinach and heat. Add the cheese, white sauce, and egg yolk beaten. Have ready the lll.fl'ly beaten egg whites and fold into the vegetable mixture. Turn into a d&vm ding dish which has been oiled t it with cracker crumbs. Bake threesquarters of an hour in a dish set In & pan of hot water. Show New Trend of . Season and Become Daintily Feminine. Found as Practical and Wearable as| Any That Men Have — Excessively Short Skirt Is Out of the Picture. BY MARY MARSHALL. PORTS clothes don't have to be at all mannish or masculine to be entirely practical—and the sports fashions of the present season clearly show that this truth has been generally recognized. Twenty years ago or more, when girls first became seriously interested in sports which had previously been en- Joyed exclusively by their brothers, they qulu naturally wore clothes that were ired by those that the brothers had seen fit to wear for m:gon in ques- tion. They wore man skirts and neckties and clumsy coats and impos- sibly unbecoming sweaters, not realiz- ing that it was perfectly poaslble for dressmakers and tailors design clothes of a perfectly (emmme sort that would answer the purpose quite as well. And s0 long as people continued to feel that outdoor sports were more appro- priate to their sons than their daugh- ters, s0 long women's sports clothes re- mained slightly masculine. * ok * ¥ NOW of course, all that is in the ‘The only sort of sports clothes that retain their mucullne tra- dition are the {amn sort of riding things, and there is good rnm for this. Long before women played tennis seriously, bflm they were permitted on the golf courses, ti had proved their skill in horsema: 3 conventional woman's ric though based to some extent on that of men’s riding costume, had been thor- oughly and most attractively feminized. Other types of sports clothes have been entirely changed, resulting in an array of women’s costumes for every sort of sport that are certainly as practical and wearable as any that men have. Certainiy there is nothing even remotely masculine in the costume worn ¢n_ the tennis ocourt by Helen ‘Wills, and no one could say that these costumes are a whit less well adapted to the exigencles of the game than the outfits worn by the great men players. * x % SPORTH clothes designed for the coming Spring and Summer are not strikingly different from those that we wore 12 months ago, and yet there is enough difference to give us a decided satisfaction in buying new on:s. The excessively short skirt is as much out of the picture for golf and tennis as it is for street wear. In fact the golf skirt was one of the first of dnyume skirts to call for added len While street skirts were still lhort. certain French dressmakers 1 having golf skirts' & very little I nr owing to the awkward appearance of a very short skirt when the player awunl her arms and twisted her body in & mhmmmfinfiob’nm«! in the very short sports skirt, viding it is wide enough at tho hem permit perfectly free motion. The skms of the new sports clothes provide all the flare that is needed without exaggerating the width of the silhouette. Pr:quently the needed fullness is held in mcmm by means of pleats at the side. The return of the normal waistline offers no problem to the designer of sports clothes. In fact a dress belted above the hips is really a more practical model for tennis and other very ener- getic_sports & dress held in the hips. High Foreheads in Mode Modern Hats Make Women Look Like Models for Famous Pictures of Renais- sance—M arie An- toinette as an Ex- ample of Style. HIOH foreheads are in the mode ps again. Or at least we don't cover our fore- heads with our hair; and if we have high forehead, we still can dress in the fashion without difficulty. The new hats that are set on the back of the head exfin the foreheads lnyw-Y yet a soften! line of hair may be allows to show. A.lmlecxer it is & very p]ns~ ant day for woman whose high forehead five ye.n ago seemed really a loss. Of course, the high forehead must be smooth and well formed texture. ng women with their hair it away from their foreheads, wearing one of the new, off- the-brow hats, look like some of the famous pictured beauties of the Italian Renalssance. 8o there will be some charming ladies in the company. For though you may miss the Venus de Milo, Diana, Juno, Minerva—or other fair goddesses whom the Grecks and Romans always depicted with low, broad foreheads—you !I.nd almost all the benumul ladies of i Mldflle A;e- or the nl:e l'hl' not. enm it with forehsads high. uuun Lhelr taste, tluy Dluekod ideal of the fourteenth and fifteenth century Italian painters and sculptors was that the forehead “hould be one- third of the entire face—sometimes even higher. What was more, the high, white forehead “must shine almost like a_mirror,” said Angolo Fienzuola in his “Discourses on Fair Women.” ‘Then there is La Giocondo, the fa- mouse Mona Lisa of Leonardo da Vinci that was stolen from the Louvre in Paris a féw years ago and then returned again, and that all during the war was treasured in' a subtefranean vault of the great museum safe from German mbardment. That “smile so divinely moeklng" would _have lost half its it not™for the tranquil high forehead tbwa it. Marie Antolnette had an exceedingly high forehead — although excessively high brows were not so much in vogue in France at that time as they had been in Italy a few hundred years before. ‘We are told that the reason she dressed her hair in such a way that the height would be accentuated was 80 that no one might say that she was too vain to show how high her forehead really was. And since Marle was Queen, this mode of arranging the hair, scrupulously brush- ed off the brow and piled high above it, lmuhuwly beelme the fashion. And what do high tonheuds mean? 'rllh do '-M! indica “hl(hbmw" m-thue are only & ites that llud‘!tnu of However, it is g0 slowly in uu:hl.n. too much impor- tance to the proportions of a single featuré. Some very stupid people have had very high foreheads; and John l(lrlhlll who was one of the most ts this wunt.ry ever has uu' est force. in: the upbulding of tr- force of Prussia—were both mh strikingiy low foreheads, Colored Glass Gives Table Seasonal Tint Colored glass is no rarity nowadays, for we can buy really attractive speci- mens of it at small prices. There are sales when 10-cent tumblers of colored t |glass are as lovely as anything our mothers could have got for a dollar 15 years ago. For when colored glass first came into its modern vogue it sold at a2 high price. Perhaps there is no less expensive way of making our table colorful than by buying colored glass. We don’t need much of it. Tumblers and dessert glasses in m make the table cool lll In pink, they carry scheme f.hmugmt iha A fo row of lflm sometimes. stitched solll women seem to think that dresses and hats, like good wine and fruit cake, improve with age. This sort of woman buys a new hat it home with her uku it out of its tissue p-ger , tries it on, ap- it, r!plces "it in its tissue swaddlings and puts the box on the top shelf of her closet. She will wear the new hat two weeks hence; perhaps not for & month, new dress that is entirely appropriate for immediate wearing, but it would seem almost {ll-bred to wear it tomorrow. So she wears a dress that ll rather out of dfle, content because she knows, even if no one else knows, that she has & new dress hanging care- fully protected with a cretonne cover in -mal dayum- frock of black marocain *lmmed with pleats, doun' and someimes alowed 1o REy I 1.3t nd and ‘this Naturally this woman was anne But she should have been annoyed herself! Avoid Those Spots .7/ Instead of Cleaning In the case of spots the ounce prevention is worth about a ton cure. If you would be spotless if‘is far better to acquire the habit of avoids ing spots than to learn the intrieats chemistry of removing them after they come. There is always wisdom in before fi- moving unwashable tempting to do any housetork or cook-, wur ing. If this is out of the an apron; but do mot g% little two-by-four apron nfi the purpose. Wear an apron that ersuth:. entire area of your frock, for spot ve & queer way of it qi y m;m If you took pains to inquire would find that the women o( r acquaintance whose clothes nfinw the most immaculate and who keep a frock in condition for the practice of changing their G na? ice of chan aome- A frol\':k Ol'“:lnln:.nflt M soon loses ll it of around the house. lhll! l ”d: house frock soon looks be it-is worn outdoors. In .| & frock built on thl'. will not be harmed A certain amount ol dm is sure to come to sport in pursuit of ‘actual sports. why the American Jjoys tennis or gol turesque costumes thi ! ers sometimes assemble l(t M So the enthuslastic horsewoman avoids the more 'mhfn eq costumes that are shown in the each season when. the horse show. attention to these dellut: or light fal easily the effects Chocolate Sauce “*” Ina lain o ST e R e granulated sugar for grated solved in a tal until ooth, remove from the Aro v remove il Savoring to taste, heat