Evening Star Newspaper, January 25, 1931, Page 45

T HE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C., JANUARY 25 1 931—PART THREE. 11 Pajamas Are in Fashion to Stay, With Place of Importance Attractive negligee pajamas: At right, blue crepe de chine with deep blue velvet jacket; in cen- ter, pink crepe de chine with rose- colored trimmings and elaborate stitching, tucks and scallops for elaboration; at left, egg-shell crepe scalloped with pink and worn with a pink jacket. Follow New Mode and | Are Always Long| With Flaring Trous- ers—Questions ‘Asked Indicate Wide Interest in Develop- ment of This Style. =Materials Are as Numerous as Those For Indoor A fter- noon or Evening Costumes. BY MARY MARSHALL. \HE first woman who wore pajamas was, 'like the first man who ever ate an ter, very brave indeed —not only brave, but a trifle ad- vaiced. But now wearing pa- Jamas is as conventional and as every- day a matter as eating oysters. If you | don't eat the one or wear the other, it| 18 simply because you don't like them: | certainly not because you have any| yeason to feel that there is anything | x!fiehemlble sbout doing it. | t's forget the oysters, which really are rather out of piace in this setting, end go on reviewing the pajama situa- tlon, which really is significant. ‘Women are still asking many ques- $lans about when and where and by :'tom the new pajama costumes may worn. “I have a lovely pajama costume of transparent velvet,” writes e Trousers, wilh & Boily draped trousers, with a softly i galrly low neck line. Would it be all to wear them for dinner at home guests are included?” R YOU could certainly wear this dinner | . pajama costume with the confi-| dence that you were following the ex- ample of hundreds of other well bred, dressed women of the sophisticated | sort. The only reason not to wear them | would be that your guests were several | seasons behind the time and did not know that a pajama costume such as you described really is correct for in- | formal home dinners. One would not, of course, wear a| pajama costume to dinner at a restau- rant, to the opera or the theater, unless one wanted to be a trail blazer in fash- fons, but there is very good precedent for wearing an evening pajama costume to & small dinner at a friend’s house or for an informal home card party. ‘These new evening pajama costumes are so similar to the customary eve: ning dress that only the close observe: would be able to tell the difference, anyway. Some of them are made with the material undivided across the back, the trouser effect showing only at the front. In any event, there is so much fullness about them that the general effect is similar to that of any long- flaring evening skirt. “I attended a bridge luncheon at a friend’s apartment the other day. The hostess and her house guests wore pa- Jama costumes. I am planning to give a bridge luncheon at my home, which is, however, a suburban house, not an spartment. It occurred to me that per- haps that would make a difference, and that pajamas would look out of place in my house.” So wrote another puz- wled correspondent. w % %% T HERE is no good reason for drawing a distinction here, though, to be sure, some women do. Bear in mind, however, that pajamas that are ap- riate for hostess wear should not be of the distinctly negligee sort. Unless the party is to be very small and very intormai, we suggest that you wear rs of the sanda]l or pump sort than the so-called bridge 'h are mules with a heel strap. a) te hostess pajama cos- for such occasions consists of a . one-piece underportion. V- neck bodice and hip yoke are of plain- toned silk with a narrow matching belt defining the waistline. The very full trouser portion consists of pleated fig- ured silk extending almost to the floor. With this is a straight jacket extending below the hips, made with slightly flar- ing waist-length sleeves. This is of the plain material with bands of the ?n-ad silk on sleeves and lower part the jacke! t. Bodice and lower portion of most of pajamas are made in one = P"-rr-nnmmlhndo-‘w m'-fimmn--mzwmm hips. The second piece is introduced by way ef the jacket which appears on dinner pajama costumes as well as those designed for afternoon. %" REALLY the only essential difference between pajamas and other cos- tumes of .the same genre lies in the division of the skirt portion. Materials that are suitable for pajamas are as numerous as those that are suitable for indoor afternoon or evening costumes, and include velvets, metal fabrics, silk crepes, satins and lace, There is the same general placing of the waistline, the same slim but not tight contour of ;.‘he hipline, the same variety in neck- nes. There is one possible difference in dress and pajama design. Pajamas are always long. Even the less formal afternoon types are long enough to hide the ankles, while the formal afternoon dress may be considerably shorter. (Copyright, 1031.) Salmagundi Party Is Great Success Let’s give more parties, better parties, bigger jes and - more amusing parties n we ever gave before. If your income has not taken & downward slant then there is no earthly excuse for not doing as much enter- taining as ever, and if it has taken a dip then you will have to give more partles to offset any possible dzpres- sion at home and to show that you are a good sport and perfectly able to weather the storm. Actually a party need not cost much. 1f you have a dining room or an eating nook with dishes, table linen, knives, forks and spoons to go round you are just wasting your resources not to ask Iriends to dine and lunch with you oc- casionally. The success of a dinner or luncheon depends so much mgore on the surroundings and the way it is served than the price that is pald for the food materials used. For the evening bridge party or in- formal dance, refreshments may be as inexpensive as you wish to make them, and no one will think less of you if you select prizes that cost but little. 8o give a dance or give a_ bridge party, or surprise your friends by giv- ing an up-to-date salmagundi party. The word salmagundi, as we only re- cently discovered, means no more nor less than a medley or hodge-podge. And that is precisely what this sort of party amounts to. It is a medley of various games and contests so ar- ranged that each guest has a chance to take part in them all. Usually the games are set up at dif- ferent tables and four guests—two men and two women—start at each table and ess 8s they would in playing bridge, the two winners moving up one table. A better plan is to give each person written directions for progres- sing so that each game is played at a | different table with a different part- Tulle Over Lace Makes Chic Gown A new evening gown shows s full skirt of white tulle arranged over a foundation skirt of lace, beneath which there is a foundation of palest pink silk. The effect is really charming. If you have on hand a last season’s lace evening dress, why not use it in this way? Black tulle or black lace over a white or black foundation would be de- cidedly smart. Do you remember the old-time taffeta petticoat that went swish-swish against the taffeta lining of your mother's best afternoon costume? Perhaps your mem- ory doesn't stretch back so far into the past, and if you never heard the swish- | ing sound of taffeta against taffeta as it was heard in the dear old 90s, you can never quite imagine how impressive it was, All things, even rather foolish fash- fohs like that, come to those who walit, and perhaps before long, taffeta skirt linings will return to favor. A fair be- ginning for such a revival has been made in the new taffeta silk dress slips that some of the shops are showing for evening wear. They are very long, rather full and just a trifle swishy when worn beneath one of the new dresses of crisp organdie or tulle. Large brooches or wide bar pins among the important afterthoughts fashion, Many of the new blouses and dresses are made with a crossed surplice closing that really needs some sort of ornamental fastener. The long, narrow neck scarfs of pliable fur, suede or vel- vet that many women wear this Winter ere particularly good lookl: ‘when ed a colorful or brilliant are of Are We Drinking Less Iced Water? The custom of drinking water in which ice is melted is on the wane. Water coolers now consist of bottles inverted in & bed of ice, so that they are chilled without actually touching the ice. Bottles of water kept in the ice section of the refrigerator supply water at as cold a temperature as is consistent with good health. Members of the family and guests should be made to feel that they are always wel- come to cool water. A vacuum bottle of cold water is now considered a nec- essary accessory of the guest room, and seems to have taken the place of the old-fashioned jug tinkling with cracked ice. ‘The hostess: who- does not have a supply of plain, chilled water in a con- venient place for guests assembled at every sort of entertainment is failing in her duty. It is not enough to have |& bowl of punch, for this sweetened | beverage fails to quench the thirst of many folk. Water should be served in | as attractive and generous a manner | as anything else if you wish to show | yourself a thoughtful hostess. | ' Sometimes at a large party, left to the hands of professional caterers, one | Iooks in vain for water and eventually | finds & small pitcher or carafe of water |on & tray in an out-of-the-way corner | of the dining room, and on the tray are four or five glasses or tumblers, ail of which have been . It you tell one of the waiters that you would like some water he will offer you punch and if you insist on water he will have to take 10 minutes to gratify your | wants. ner. At a party of this sort given re- cently, long streamers were arranged on the celling to indicate the direction in which the plavers progressed. Guests were paired off at the beginning of the evening and kept the same partners throughout. given even numbers and the other half odd numbers, After playing one game at the first table the couple with odd numbers moved in one direction, fol- lowing the blue streamer, while the couple with an even number followed the red streamer, | Bright Doorways | Recently it has occurred to certain city dwellers—here and there—that one | #8od way to give a little brightness to | their dull surroundings is to use a little | | bright paint on dull doorways. So it is | that a certain doorway of a very dull, | dark house in a dull neighborhood in one of our large cities is painted a red- dish hue—and then there is somewhere shade of purple and there are several green doorways. The vicar of a London church went tYPe, | so far as to have the door of his church painted bright red. He feels that it as done considerable to brighten uj the spirits of those who see it. people would only realize” says he, “the charm of jolly curtains, radiant front doors, buoyant window frames, London would be made the brightest city in the worl Crepe Blouses. Crepe de chine blouses are, after all, | the most useful sort to wear with the | jacket suit, aren’t they? Some are| made with no trimming save fine hem- stitching, some are made with a little the front. Some show buttons for Half the couples were | a doorway painted a lovely, soft, dull | It A N DN 27 Aj' 7 W 7 % g Take Stock Wardrobe Inventory Found to Be Advis-| able Before Laying in Supplies—S o m e| Things Are Found to Be as Good as New. Long before there 5 enough suggestion | of Spring in the air to cause a young | man'’s fancies to lightly turn to thoughts' of love a young woman's fancies usual- Iy turn lightly or otherwise to thoughts| of a Spring wardrobe. Older ladies, too, Few of us ever outgrow our interest in new Spring clothes. And so before long we shall be meet- ing you at the milliner’s and the dress- maker’s, at the glove counter, in the lit- tle French shop where the only thing we don't like to look at is the price tag, and in the lower-price dress depart- ments where we can usually find some- thing that will answer the purpose. But before we lay in new supplies let’s take an inventory of what we al- | | ready” possess. Some " things—gloves, & | scarf or two, & purse, a few blouses, a | between-season wrap--we will doubtless | find that they will do just as they are for another season. Other things will do after they have been altered or re- paired, while still other things just won't | do at all. There is the hat you bought | only two weeks ago. It's a really nice | hat, and it was a great bargain, but— | well you would rather go barcheaded | than be seen wearing it. At left, bgach sandals, and at right, sandals suited fiobr w:urbwhll imas, 101 “ e s . Three types of, pajamas: At left, for the beach, of green cotton with black bindings, worn with a cream blouse and cream hat, In center, negligee pajamas of red crepe de chine. At right, practical cotton pongee pajamas for housework. for Spring ‘Then there is the figured chiffon eve- ning frc that is nearly as good as new. Three times you have worn it, and three times it has cramped your style and ruined the evening for you. Not, of course, that any one was can- did enough to tell you it was unbecom- ing. That was one of the things you didn’t have to be told. Even if you had | the dress remodeled you wouldn't like it, 80 toss it in the discard and put the price down to profit and loss—little profit and much loss. Then there is & tweed skirt that you bought one day in haste. Perhaps you had better save that to wear under a long coat on stormy days. All this is melancholy sort of busi- ness that most of us have to go through with once or twice a year in order to make room in our closets and bureau drawers for fresh supplies. Depressing work, to be sure, but it may be very helpful if we only stop for a little re- flection. The first question that you should ask yourself concerning any dress or accessory that has been a failure is this: “Why did I make the selection?” Perhaps you bought in too great haste, perhaps you allowed yourself to be over- persuaded by an eager saleswoman. You may have been too tired at the time to care much what you bought or you may have been too greatly in- fluenced by a friend’s opinion. Again you may have bought the dress or hat r nc'm ssory merely because it was a bargain, Then there is the pleasant side of | this business of taking stock of your wardrobe. There are afternoon dresses —some of them quite inexpensive—that you have worn more times than you could possibly estimate. There are evening dresses that seem to carry with them a guarantee of a good time, dresses that you loathe to part with, even though you know that they are out of date or a little shabby. There are gloves and stockings that seem to be endowed with the gift of eternal youth and colored prints that no amount of sunshine or washing seems to fade. By comparing notes concerning these successes in your wardrobe with what you have recalled concerning the pur- chase of the fallures you will surely draw a number of helpful conclusions. You will probably discover that it is a great mistake ever to buy anything merely because it is a bargain, just as it is a mistake to think that a high price is always a guarantee of satis- faction. You will also discover that your own judgment about your own clothes is usually better for you than the impromptu suggestion of a sales- woman or the prejudiced opinion of a friend. You may, on the other hand, find that the advice of certain friends and certain saleswomen is most m'lg; ful, in which case you should seek same source for help in the future. Ggoscercorssett Ner s 3 Evening Dresses With Jackets Lace evening frocks with jackets are most becoming. Moreover, they are sensible, for the jacket, no matter how thin, gives added warmth to shoulders and arms. The sleeves some- |times reach to the elbow, sometimes | they are just little shoulder caps. Some of the jackets are abbreviated boleros, some tie about the waist. ‘Taffeta evening gowns have huge bows, fan-shaped, at one side of the deep back decolletage. These big bows in their spreading shape emphasize the flaring lines of the stiff, outstanding A deep oval line finishes the back decolletage of some of the new evening flu;eam instead of the more usual V- e with a cowl drapery, sometimes with a little scalloped edge of the material of the frock. Some of the new evening coats have long, shirred velvet sleeves. Shirred lengthwise, you know, so that they give| added bulk and warmth to the wearer, and reach well down over the hands. Black chiffon velvet evening coats are trimmed with white fur. The cheaper ones, of course, are tri ed with the cheaper white fur, but even that is de- cidedly good looking in combination with the black of the velvet. Velvet garters, by the way, are sold to wear with velvet frocks. A lot of the new evening dresses have fur-trimmed jackets. One of ecru lace has bands at the end of the elbow sleeves of sable. One of black velvet has a narrow white band around the neck and tiny short sleeves of the little | coat. One of printed chiffon has bands | of fur around the sleeves that end below | the elbow. White Leather Sports jackets are made in leather of | all colors. And now they appear in washable white leather. These are par- ticularly smart for snow sports, as the all-white costume always is under those conditions. The white jacket may be worn with white skirt or knickers, with black or with color, like bright red or bright green. Any combination is smart for snow sports. Sleeveless chamois jackets are sold for golfing in cold weather. They give warmth without restricting the action of the arms, as a sleeved jacket would. They are worn under a coat, or on warmer days over a heavy dress. is oval is sometimes finished RN Al SIE R Al i Two sleeping pajamas of lm;dl at right, or crepe de ehinefi': eft. NN N NN N\ N S\ N N N RN AN N NN Eyes Get New Attention Since Hats Have Gone High-Brow Many Factors in Beauty Treatment Have Es- tablished Their Claims at Dressing ‘Fable: ‘The debutante knows that since hats have gone high-brow eyes are certainl; made for seeing. She doesn't mean that her eyes are the ones that will do the looking, either! Therefore, it is im- portant for them to get the right slant o n_life. The debutante is spending a good many minutes every day sitting in front of her dressing table, opening her eyes wider and wider to see that she doesn't miss any eye tricks. She has learned that there are some shades of rouge which simply make her eyes fade out of the picture. She might as well have a hat brim if she uses them. If you have rain-gray eyes, or green or blue-green, or neutral, take the debutante’s advice and avoid heavy rouge. It will deaden your eye luster. quht, bright shades are best for you. f your eyelashes are light, darken them, for you will find that this deepens the color of the eyes. Beading the eyes with mascara requires some practice on the part of the debutante, but she has discovered that she didn't lose any votes in the beauty contest when she touchecd up her eyelashes with a little harmless coloring applied on a small brush. She is very careful to brush her eyelashes uplwery day in order to make them curly. Olive ofl and vaseline have joined the row of mysterious-looking jars and bot tles on her vanity dresser. They knov how to mourish the roots of eyebrow. and eyelashes, o1 o The debutante doesn't pluck her “m!e- brows this Winter. She never did ) this style was attractive and the wa: that masculine eyebrows go up in admi ration since she's stopped slendering hers nature has an eye for beauty. ‘The debutante pinches her eyebrows with her thumb and forefinger and als: brushes them with a special brush de signed for that purpose. Another secret she has learned is t press down on her brow with her fir: finger and up with her thumb ever time she finishes brushing them. makes a graceful line. Eyes must have “it” if they are going to exchange the right glances this year, The daily eye bath—preferably twice & day—Iis absolutely essential. The debu- tante uses a cleansing lotion in an eye- cup every morning and every night. She never uses the same bath for both eyes, as this would merely place the im- urities removed from the first in ghe second eye. ey New Waists for Spring All Kinds of Material Used, But Designs A r e Distinctive — Sleek, Handsome, Flattering, They Are Strongly Marked as 1931. Your new street or office costume just cannot avoid “waist” and be in style. All the new things are just “waisting” away to new lengths of beauty. ‘These new walsts for Spring are made of all kinds of material. They take their pick of wool laces, sheer rayon georgettes, rich metal brocades, fine crepe Elizabcth, chiffons, linen, pique, flat crepe, satin, jersey or batiste. But the way they are made stamps them decidedly and unmistakably 1931. The new waist is sleck, handmade, makes a fetish of self-trim, is perfectly fitted and flattering no end. The Rus- sian blouse seems missing—too many of them this Winter. Lingerie touches are seldom_of removable washable this or that. It is much smarter to have the blouse all one color. Given a single good-looking suit and four blouses and just see what a variety of outfits you may have. Especially if you can match up the character of your blouse with a little headpiece! First, you will undoubtedly want & couple 'of tailored blouses for everyday wear. They should be utterly fominine. ‘The idea that you will look efficient in mannish tailored things is all wrong. You'll go much farther if you always look softly feminine! For these there are two new blouses. One is a pale Spring green crepe Eliza- beth, hand-tailored in dress; er style, It fits superbly, will give you it slender shoulder, small look you all love, It is & short overblouse, with the over- under petal collar extends, with the Ppetals sewn together so they won't flop. The same petal cut fashions th: fitted cessory. For days wl very b the feminine front closing and round collar and small bow tie. The edges of the top of the cuffs and the diagonal front closing—which runs to the right side and not the left, a new change— are cut in pointed scallops and the little placquettes at the top of the cuff are finished th: same way. Crystal buttons for the cuff links and for the front of the blouse make a contribution to _style. When you feel real dressy and want to go to luncheon looking nifty, even though you are a working lady, there is a trim, exquisite little blouse made of rich metal cloth in gold, reds and & dash of black that is an arrestingly lovely combination. The tailored cut of the blouse makes it wearable for business. The beauty of the material gives it the right to appear at the best restaurant or hotel tables. It is cut in the new bias manner, with the front pointing down in a flattering menner designed to make th: stoutest of you look slender. The sleeves have the same diagonal cut. Last but not least is the sportsy little sleevzless overblouse of gay yellow linen. It has a front panel and yoke cut in oge and hand-seamed. There are the faint- est suggestions of little short caps over the top of the arm. And & b:lt of thr tyrfxltl'::w linen fastens with a little yellow n, Tissue Paper. The wise housewife will treasurc every bit of tissue paper that comes into her house. The fresh, white pleces can be laid away in a box to await the day when something needs careful packing; smaller pieces that are perfectly clean and fresh are the very best thing to grease pans for baking, and the crum- pled pieces should be kept in a big bag in the kitchen for wiping off plates and dishes before washing. It is _astonishing how the curse s taken off dishwashing if platters, plates, vegetable dishes and butter plates are gw&umofl&%’h?mpfiw’:fi soft paper w] of course, goes the nrgn can. Wipe out frying pans with a handful of tissue paper before putting water in them and you will find the unpleasant- ness of washing them is very much di- min| 5 If a pot or pan needs scrubbing with scouring powder, sprinkle it on and then operate with the handful of soft paper; you will avoid having to wash & blackened dishcloth. A few drops of kerosene oil on tissue paper rubbed around an enamel tub or sink removes stains and they can then :g;ucuymeaoulmmmpm mfl. that tries it wm find tissue paper becomes her best friend in the kitchen,