Evening Star Newspaper, July 6, 1930, Page 39

Pro n R per Dressing, The printed silk dress at the left has a belt slightly below normal—an arrangement becoming to the woman with large waist. Flattering to the slender figure is the normal waistline as indicated in the dotted silk dress at the right. Mere Man, Says Fashion Expert, May Think a Heavy Woman Is Thin if She Wears Well Selected Summer Clothes. BY MARY MARSHALL. ILLOWY tall girls, daintily | roportioned short girls, grulu-shoulderei straight- waisted girls of the obviously athletic type, young matrnns\ who didn't look their years and young matrons who did, mothers that looked | like sisters and mothers that looked like grandmothers—they were all there train- sing over the campus in themr chiffons and voiles, crepes and georgettes. It was l class day for the class of 1930 at one of the historic universities and it was safe to assume that the mothers and sisters, | eousins and aunts of the graduates had dressed with more than casual care. In many cases hats and dresses and acces- sories had been specially bought for the gala occasion. “Rather better dressed crowd than last year,” a graduate's mother said to a gr te's father. “The women, I mean. I gpflu that is because clothes are so much more becoming now than they were.” “Perhaps,” said the graduate’s father, glancing across the sun-splashed cam- pus, “but why is it that the fat women never know how to dress? You'd think they had their dresses and hats designed to make them look as mountainous as H BY CHARLOTTE C. WEST, M. D. 'ODAY every woman who values her 14 “appearance is concerned about the condition of her neck, since it is here that the first tell-tale evidences of age are traced. It is amazing how much can be done to transform a scrawny throat, disfiguring hollows and dry, hard, discolored skin into a firm, white column with beautifully rounded con- tour. ‘The peasants of France are still noted for their wonderful necks. due, no doubt, to generations of freedom from the bondage of unnatural clothes and to the development of the muscles by carrying and balancing heavy burdens on the head. The Frlnciple is the same a5 the hand-resisting exercises. But before entering into a description of these world-famed exercises, we must mive strict attention to preventive meas- ures, here, as always, more desirable than the curative. First, the poise of the head is most im) int. Some persons are endowed with & natural tendency to hold the head beautifully. ‘The manner in which the head is poised |:g°fl the body by means, of course, of the neck is one of Rhe fundamental causes for the pres- ervation of this feature, or for its gradual decline. If one cultivates a proud poise of the head, with chin up and slightly forward, the muscles of the neck cannot become flabby, as they are purposefully held irm. To aid in developing poise, carry a weight—a book, for instance— upon the head and keep perfectly bal- anced while walking around the room. “This simple exercise can be expanded | into balancing objects on the crown Heads Up for Beauty of the head wgfle walking up and down s and s0 on. In time the training becomes second nature, and the head is held in a beau- tiful manner unconsciously. Unless the head is held high—if it is allowed to re- lax constantly upon the body—the neck muscles cannot fail to become flabby and ultimately break down. Never use a pillow. Lie perfectly flat. In some countries a wooden device for holding the head rigidly in position is employed in order to preserve the integrity of the tissues of the neck. It is a Spartan remedy, but it works. Never fail to cream the neck a particularly the throat with a soothing, whlléenlns skin food every night on re- tiring. The following is an excellent nutri- tious cream for the neck and throat: Almond oll, one and one-hal! ounces; lanolin, one-half ounce; spermaceti, one and one-half ounces; witch hazel, one-half ounce, and tincture of benzoin, one-half ounce, Pirst, the skin must be thoroughly cleansed of all dust, grime and powder. Then, for five minutes pat the cream into the neck, giving especial care to the throat. Leave a thick smear of cream on the throat during sleep. Vocal culture insures a beautiful neck that never grows old; no grand opera singer ever deteriorates in this respect. ultivate the voice, take vocal lessons, Deep, fresh-air breathing exercises are the next best thing, pursued day by day. The present-day freedom accorded the throat has more benefits than simply beauty results, for in the throat is situ- ated the life-giving, rejuvenating thyroid gland, greuure upon which interferes s0 much with its functioning that old conscientiously age has been traced to the decline of this gland alone. (Copyright, 1930.) The crepe de chine blouse at the thkndcr mu to the hips. The tuck-in batiste blouse ai the right is left is worn over the skirt to give 55 o WAk nd tucked into the skirt by the R e e et e HE ‘There are still people who cling to the old-fashioned notion that the gar- den and lawns about one’s house should be a pleasant stretch of cultivated een and flower beds to be gazed upon rom the windows or from the safety of one's shaded veranda. They were some- thing to be admired from a distance— with an occasional closer view when one made a tour of inspection with the gar- dener. ‘The idea of actually living in one's garden, eating in it, working in it and spending one’s leisure hours sitting in it —well, there were foreigners who did that sort of thing. Honest working people of German or Swedish origin actually ate supper under their grape arbors, and one hardly blamed them, for their verandas consisted of nothing more were rather stuffy. If there was garden furniture at all, it consisted of rustic seats and Sum- mer houses put there for ornamental purposes only. possible, Normal-sized women always seem to have so much better ideas on the subject.” * * % * THE graduate's mother laughed a little, because she knew that the graduate’s father considered her still normal sized, though she wasn't, and she knew he had a high regard for her ideas on the subject of dress. She —and then she decided that she wouldn't—that the fat women who knew how to dress failed to register with him as fat women, and that the minority who wore the clothes that made them look mountainous were the only ones he There was the important lady in the large yellow-figured chiffon dress who flattered herself that because she was nearly 6 feet tall it didn't matter if she the man she later married had told her in a rash moment that she reminded him of a daffodil, and she had worn yellow ever since on important occa- slons. Realizing, in the years that had | el:rtzd since the tender compliment was | pald, that the girth of her waist had in- creased a little, she had decided to re- tain the lowered waistline no matter where fashionable dressmakers decided to place it. And there she was with a draped girdle around her ample hips, with the bodice of her dress loofmg pro- diglously large in a season when our :’y.?”r‘uve become accustomed to higher And there was the flirtatious lady in red georgette, as gay and striking as a scarlet tanager, who had convinced herself that even if she was 30 pounds 0" erweight she could never look “large” because she was less than 6 feet tall. Her first husband had told her 20 years ago that black was a depressing color. It seems t00 obvious to bear repeating that large figures and striking colors are a poor selection for women of too ample proportions and yet obviously these truths bear repeating. There are shades of purple and a bright flag blue that should be avoided quite as much as red by women of this group. White and light pastel tones have a lar effect than darker tones, but can often worn advantageously by the shorter stout womi ‘This is especially true of the grayed light tones of blue and pink, which are les. expansive than the clearer, flower-petal pastel tones. Oyster white is a better choice than pure white or cream white. For outdoor wear, especially on the golf course, certain shades of leaf green are wisely chosen—shades that might be striking in verdureless city streets, but that sink into the green tones of the background when worn in the country. * k ok * “Pu!AsE give me some specific sug- gestions about choosing my clothes,” writes a reader who admits to 40 pounds overweight at 40, “What sort of shoes, stockings, gloves and hats would you suggest?” Opera pumps by all means—so far as shoes are concerned—because the line of the vamp unbroken by straps or lacings makes for slenderness of outline. Fairly high heels give a slen- der effect to the ankles, but should never be so high as to give an unstable effect. Black faille, with very little trimming if any, is a good choice for evening shoes, with dull black kid for daytime. Plain beige pumps are also well chosen because when worn with matching stockings they give an un- to the toe of the shoe. With black shoes sheer gun metal stockings should be selected when they go with the rest of the costume, and gun metal does go with navy blue or black. With brown or beige, beige stockings are a better choice. Rose tones of beige are not so favor- able as grayish or brownish beige, and the new crepe silk stockin; dull surface are a better choice than those of a glossy surface. A neat clock at the side of the stocking contributes to the slenderness of the ankle. Gloves of the pull-on sort should be chosen in preference to short gloves or those finished with a cuff. If worn drawn up over the sleeves of the dress they give a slender a nce to the wrist and hands. And, of course, suede loves are preferable to those of glace suede, light beige or white suede, but never the yellowish tones of natural chamois gloves. ‘The choice of a hat depends so on the proportions of the face that it is hard to give any specific rules that will apply to all women who call them- selves stout. Generally speaking, the very large cartwheel hat, the hat that droops well down to the shoulder, and the small hat that makes the face look wide should be avoided, and usually black hats are best. much wanted to go with er dress, there are lightweight black lace straws that are amazingly flattering. than small stoops and their houses | thought at first that she would explain | thought of as not being normally sized. ' did weigh 200 odd. When she was 21| broken line from the hem of the skirt | th SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C. JuLY 6, 1930—VPART THREE. Like the Diet, Casts O The normal waistline is accented in the short-sleeved dress at the left made of navy blue and white printed silk crepe worn with two kid belts, one navy blue and the other white. chosen by the mother and daughter sketches in the center. wears a white organdie dress with normal waistl and bolero and white pin dot georgette dress Mother wears a b lect which hides the actual breadth of the waist. Two types of waistline have been Daughter black velvet sash tied closely at the eige lace dress with draped waistline The black at the right, with vest and cuffs of white georgette, is becoming to larger figures. N7 <90 % 'Q"’ ' RIS - B2 (R XL p2X oy For sports wear there is the high waistline achieved by tuck-in sweater and the lower line of the sweater worn over the skirt. Washcloths Are of Great Importance Linen is the ideal material for wash- cloths, because it gives up the soil so much more readily than cotton. This is especiall’ true of children’s wash- cloths that naturally are used more carelessly than those of adults. If you have any linen Turkish towels on hand, treasure them carefully. and when they have worn in the middle save em to cut up into washcloths, The ends are always firm when the center part has given way, and will yield sev- eral good, substantial washcloths. For young children a very wash- cloth can made from the heaviest linen huckaback. This can be hemmed llll around and provided with a tape loop. For a cotton washcloth a good selec- tion and one that is inexpensive is a washcloth made from three thicknesses of white gauze. A doctor’s wife always ha: this sort ot washcloth for members of her family, and delights her house guest by presenting one. Dress to Live or Live to Dress SOW people eat to live, while others— it is said—live to eat. And so some ‘women’s objective in buying clothes is to have suitable raiment for the various hours of work and play which comprise their days, while others look upon the various jottings in their engagement books simply as opportunities to dis- play their carefully selected clothes. The first class of women say: “I have accepted an invitation to a dinner. Now I must see whether I have anything to wear. If not I must buy something dlr?x:er party before the week is out.” —_— ‘While crop prospects for this year in the North China coastal plain r:rrm are expected to be bumper, serious reported in famine conditions are Shens{ and Hansu Provinces. Remember, If You’re Overweight— V neck lines in preference to round or square necks— Surplice neck lines— breasted jacket closings—with buttons and buttonholes placed Single. below_the waist line— Overblouses rather than tuck-in Skirts with dri fullness—: Elbow sleeves than very short puffed sleeves— blouses— rather than pleats— ished with a flaring drapery over the wrist rather Sleeves that come well down over the wrist for daytime dresses— Drapery extending over the upper arms, draping down slightly at the back— Narrow belts of self material placed an inch or so below the normal ‘waistline rather than wide, high bel Bodices made with drapery ngt an rather than th waist Kl these Heterls a% Barieriog o te— lIt‘m'o Mly’dnvn over the waist— e of & season or 5o ago— t.hg ‘woman inclined to be overweight. | the whites of three. 1 Checolate Pudding. Melt an ounce and a half of choco- late in a double boller and add a table- spoon and a half of cornstarch mixed with three-quarters of a cup of sugar. Stir till smooth. Add two cups of hot milk, stirring slowly as you add it, and cook for 25 minutes, stirring from time to time. Then a beaten egg yolk and a teaspoon of vanilla. Pour into a baking dish, cover with a meringue, brown in the oven and serve very cold, with or without cream. Chocolate Bread. Sift together two and a quarter cups of flour, five teaspoons of baking pow- der, & quarter of a cup of sugar, three tablespoons of cocoa and a teaspoon of salt. Add an egg beaten in a cup of milk and three tablespoons of cooking oil or fat. Mix and then add & third of & cup of nuts. Bake slowly in a loaf for about 40 minutes. Chocolate Sauce. Heat in a double boiler one cup each of cream and milk. Add two heaping tablespoons of grated chocolate rubbed to & smooth paste with a little cold milk and thicken with the beaten yolks of two eggs. Take from the fire and add half a cup of powdered sugar, e few drops of vanilla and the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs. Serve im- mediately. Chocolate Pancakes. Mix four tablespoons of flour, two tablespoons of sugar, a cup of macaroon | crumbs and two tablespoons of melted butter with the yolks of six eggs and Add enough milk to make a pancake batter and fry in small thin pancakes. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve with choco- late fudge sauce made by melting four tablespoons each of melted chocolate and sugar in half a cup of milk and cooking to make a thick sirup. Chocolate Cream. Grate three squares of bitter choco- | Jate and mix with two cups of cream. half a cup of sugar and the well beaten yolks of six eggs. Cook in a double boller until smooth and thick, stirring constantly: then add a package of gelatin which has been soaked and dissolved. ‘Take from the fire and when cool, but not set, fold in a cup of cream which has been whipped solid. Add a few drops of vanilla. Mold, chill and serve with whipped cream. Chocolate Jelly. One pint of boiling water, two pinches of salt, one and a half squares of chocolate, one-third package of gelatin, two level tablespoons of sugar and one teaspoon of vanilla. Put the water, salt and chocolate in a saucepan. Stir over fire until the chocolate melts, then let it boil for three or four minutes. Soften the gelatin in a little cold water and pour the boiling mixture over it. Stir until dissolved, then add sugar and vanilla. Pour into a mold and set aside to harden. Serve with plain or whipped cream. Frozen Chocolate. One quart milk, two and a half squares chocolate, one and & quarte: cups sugar, one tablespoon vanilla and few grains salt. Put milk and choco- late in double boiler and when milk has scalded and chocolate has melted add sugar, vanilla and salt. Chill and freeze, using three parts finely crushed ice to one part rock salt. Serve in sherbet glasses with whipped cream. —_— Plan Your Vacation Before You Take It F you have only a week or two for your outing don't go away to a re- sort where you are unknown and may remain so. Often it takes two or three weeks to acquire a circle of friends at a resort and often it happens that just as one is about {o return she has just Bt S, Tl lorn an t other people’s gayeties. i Don’t go anywhere without being sure that you have the appropriate ward- Tobe. If you have a very simple ward- Tobe don't go to a hotel where elaborate dressing is the rule. You will find life at some less formal place more to your taste. And don't carry a lavish ward- Tobe to a place where simple dressing is general, If possible don't talk shop on your vacation—whether “shop” for you is house management, baby rearing, store- keeping, office work or school teaching. eeping, :[Even if you are proud of your work don't start talking about it on your va- cation because it is important to get your mind fairly off your usual occu- Ppation. Most people say that a thorough change is essential and look with con- sternation if you suggest that you are going to stay home for your vacation. But if you rather dread going away and know that you would worry over the expense of it, then be independent enough to do as you really want to do— and stay home. e, & thorough change is essential, but it may be that loafing at home will be a thoro change, And almost her own home than in some over- crowded Summer resort. If you have two weeks to be away from ‘work and intend to be away 10 days, then by all means start off at once and have two or three days at home after the end of the outing. It is always a poor plan to go to work Im- mediately after the rather tiresome trip home. Besides is the con- fusion glu :n‘::cklng ‘you; ‘:runk and tting mnormal an 15 a good :‘nn to have this out of the way before starting to work., ff Many Poundls The white linen suit with belted jacket is a wise choice for the slender woman while the unbelted coat and blouse worn on the outside of the skirt is more becoming to the larger woman. The skirt and jacket are of light blue shantung and the blouse is white, embroidered in blue. Hot-Weather Garments More Im- portant Than at Any Other Time of the Year. Mary Marshall Gives a Few Valuable Tips. F YOU are young and slender and perfectly proportioned the question of skirt lengths is easy to answer, because it does not much matter whether you choose a sports skirt that comes four inches below the knees or one that merely covers the knees or whether you choose an evening dress of the short sort or with a skirt that touches the floor. You will look well anyway. But when you are not so young, and not so slender, and not perfectly pro- rtioned, then the question of skirt lengths is important and choosing pre- cisely the right length may save you from looking dowdy or grotesque. When short skirts first came into fashion we were all rather surprised— were we not?>—to find that they were flattering rather than the reverse to most stout women, or at least to those stout women who had rather nicely proportioned legs and ankles. And a skirt short enough to show the slender lines of the leg toward the knee was found to be very much more flattering than the not so short skirt that ter- minated just where the calf of the leg was thickest. The return of the longer skirt—now that it is an established fact—has cer- tain disadvantages for the stout woman, and these are most apparent in the rather full afternoon or evening skirt that ends midway between knees and ankles. Our personal opinion is that skirts of this length should be stricken from the list of things wearable for the matronly woman. For sports and street wear we suggest | skirts that hang three or four inches below the knees—long enough to look | up-to-date, yet not at all longer, and for afternoon and evening skirts that hang to the ankles or below—skirts that are long enough to hang in a little toward the ankles. We have in mind a chiffon jacket costume that will give a slender contour to any woman that wears it. It is made with a perfectly plain, sleeveless bodice that extends to a deep hip yoke, with a narrow belt of the material, worn loosely enough so that it rests an | or inch below the normal waistline, with a very slight blousing of the bodice above. From the deep, shaped hip yoke the skirt hangs almost to the floor with circular fullness falling in long, unbroken lines from the back and front and swaying as the wearer of the dress walks or dances. There is a straight chiffon jacket, made with long sleeves, extending well below the hips at back and sides. Skirt ruffies may not seem appro- ,priate to the matronly figure, yet there is a certain sort of skirt ruffie that is decidedly flattering. We speak of the circular ruffie four or five inches wide that is sometimes arranged in two or three tiers from a low hip line to the | knees. These ruffes hide the dipping in of the dress below the hips and ac- | centuate the slenderness of the skirt | drapery from the knees to ankles. (Copyright, 1930.) - Dining Table Has Many Possibilities AR greater variety is offered the housewife now than formerly in choosing the covering for the dining room table. She may use the conven- tional tablecloth or she may use run- ners or doilies. She may use pure white |or she may follow her taste for color- ing. But in one thing present-day | taste demands even greater precision than ever before. Everything must be absolutely spotless that is used as & | table cover. Cotton table covers and napkins are usually taboo among fas- tidious people because of the difficulty of keeping them snowy white after fre- quent washings. If you have a conventional dining room with polished oak, walnut or ma- hogany furniture, then good form | mands that you use a heavy felt and large cloth for dinner. You may use dotlies or runners for luncheon or sup- per and these may also be used for breakfast. However, if you prefer 1o use the conventional large cloth for thr:e meals a day your choice is cor- rect. If, however, you have dining room furniture of the new painted variety, the custom is to use runners—hea Russian linen trimmed usually wi large mesh real filet lace. These run- ners are used even for formal dinners by women who have furnished their dining rooms in the new lettuce green ray furniture. It is a passing fad perhaps, but it is approved by good taste and fashion. In an effort to simplify the tasks ot housekeeping many women have to eliminate any sort of table cover that would need to go to the laundry. Runners and doilies made of olicloth appealed to many because they need to be simply wiped off, and some house- wives have tried the expedient of set- ting places with a paper napkin or leaving the table quite bare. ) SRISSAS S ) \ buttons and binding of linen is unusually smart, while for the woman with @ not too slender ‘figure better lines are achieved by the printed dress with draped waistline indicated at the right.