Evening Star Newspaper, June 8, 1930, Page 45

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, JUNE 8, 1930—PART THREE. All Sorts of Feminine Frocks Show All Degrees of Formality Wearers Must Be Dressed for Occasion This Year to Be Smart — Four Dis- tinctly Different Types of Clothes Make Adequate Wardrobe —Sport Types in Their Prop- er Place—For Later in the Day. BY HELEN DRYDEN. HE wardrobe has welcomed back i's prodigal daughters—the friv- olous feminine afternoon clothes. There can be no denying it— this is a feminine year. The tailored, not so sociable clothes are out, and particularly in relation to the Sum- mer wardrobe, and there are not many of us who do not applaud this renais- sance of femininity. The lady who follows fashion must have a wardrobe that has all sorts of feminine frocks, in all degrees of for- mality, but not necessarily céstly. To be smart is to dress for the occasion this year, and gracefully—that is part of the meaning of a feminine wardrobe. There are perhaps four distinctly dif- ferent types of clothes that compose the adequate wardrobe: Sport clothes are strictly utilitarian; the spectator sport are more feminine and play a dual role; the afternoon clothes are of an infor- mal and semi-formal nature, and last are the evening clothes, which in the Summer are never so strictly formal. * % X % SPORT clothes are now in their proper place, and not, as they were, worn for all Summer dayiime occasions. Of course active sport clothes have a defi- nite reason for being, and that a most practical one. There must be freedom and simplicity of line, and these neces- sitles are not marred by the touches of feminine fashion in the new active sport frocks. They have normal waist- lines, marked usually by a belt; new and interesting sun backs; some have cap sleeves that are quite effective, and they all are most becoming—of that there is no doubt. ‘The new clothes for spectator sport are restricted not to a literal interpre- tation of the sport mode, but to a point a fey degrees removed. Consequently they have a dual personality, for with application to sport as the pivotal point the dresses to ensembles can easily take their place in the active pic- ture. They are more feminine, of course, and as always the essence of dramatic, colorful sophistication in | Summer clothes. Eigix & HERE is the important branch of fashion that cannot bs denied— the fashions for later in the day. From afternoon on. designs are graceful to & degree and portrayed in chiffon, crepe de chine and a host of new fabrics of feminine inclination. They go right through the paces of semi-formality— for luncheon and bridge, informal suits, caped and sleeved dresses of an even length about 4 to 6 inches below the knee; next, the semi-formal frocks for tea and daylight dining are uneven if you choose and any length almost, down to 4 inches above the ankle; and last there is the informal formality of frocks for Summer nights and dancing. Here almost any vagary of length is sllowed from an ankle length that just | escapes the ground to skirts that trail | "‘!, i ;";' 2 {4 1457 L ‘,' 24 2esy, Frocks for active sport have a flair this season. They lose none of their usefulness thereby, but their designing is a more ar- tistic thing. The new note in this frock of silk crepe is a net top upon which there are narrow silk crepe straps. Imagine the Chiffon fashions this deceptive frock—de- ceptive in that its material is the filmiest knason to feminine fashion yet it is printed in tailored checks—black on white for the dress—white on black for the jacket. De ceptive, too, are its pseudo-tailored lines— Striped wash silk is a smart revival in the fashion world. And it has, for this reazon, @ maximum of importance in this Summer's outdoor life. Here it is done in a costume for spectator sport. With applied bands and tie ends, a long coat and box-pleated in fluttering points. The new mate- Tials they appear in are stunning and suit the casual sophistication of these frocks to perfection. There are huge printed patterns in chiffons, most dis- tinctive, and the enormous polka dot— big as a plate—is one of the newest and smartest. * ok ok % Tim fabric friends of our girlhood |+ days are back—organdy, voile, dot- ted swiss and batiste. Fashions you know are rather sophisticated and com- pletely ladylike, and it is certainly amazing and surely clever the way the naivete of the fabric and this sophisti- cation have been combined, for they are seemingly two inconsistent elements. But that is probably the very allure of these frocks—their aspect of gay de- ceivers. The frocks for afternoon and tea time are charmingly demure and refreshing and treated with all the art and skill of high fashions, so that they are not trivial but highly important in | the mode. * % % % TI'E stockingless vogue is not so ap- skirt, it is @ graceful ensemble. plcture again, & stocking is necessary to- preserve the suavity and chic of the costume. And, too, the new hosiery shades are quite tempting. There is a bronzed tone, just a shade or so darker than the sunburned ones and with a slightly different cast to it that is one of the newest hosiery notes. It is most effective with pastel colors and light country footwear. It is problematical whether the re- turn of the lisle stocking within the last two or three years has been responsible for the dull silk stocking trend, or vice versa. But the fact remains that lisle hose are to be had in such sheer form and such attractive shades that they plicable to this Summer’s fashions. ‘What with the more graceful semi-for- mal afternoon clothes coming into the Mirror Hanging Is Fine Art "Tllusions of Space and Light Are Highly Desirable in Pres- ent-Day Apart- ments —Sense of| Spaciousness— Cover Every Period. MOR! than any ancient bit of deco- ration, mirrors fit into the mod- ern house-furnishing scheme. For to- day's tendency toward cramped, often dark, box-like dwellings has brought the mirror into uses of which Narcissus lit- tle dreamed when he saw his image in the brook. Mirror hanging has become a fine art, capable of creating illusions of space and light highly desirable in present-day apartments. Doubtless the first purpose of the looking glass will always be to tell & lady if her make-up is on straight and to assure a gentleman he really is the devil of a fellow he has always sus- ted. But_other purposes, far from inci- dental, have been devised by modern decorators and designers. A mirror hung on one side of a crowded room will give that room a needed sense of spaciousness. A mirror hung to catch the reflec- tion of a bright bit of drapery, of danc- ing flames in a fireplace, or of sunlight streaming through a window will dou- ble the effectiveness of such cheerful details. Light reflected doubles the light shown. This is a point which the housewife confronted with the problem of furnishing a dark room will do well to keep in mind. Another point worth noting about mirrors is their adaptability to a space ‘which the use of fashionable but gaudy wall paper often renders unsuited for paintings or prints. Wall mirrors never conflict with wall papers. The house- wife with a flair for either the “covered” early American designs or for the dar- ingly modern ones may “break” her wall space with mirrors. Because of their adaptability to the c:)me of today, mirrors are being made the designs of every period from the severely geometric modern to the ornate Venetian. ‘The most recent development is the may now be worn with perfect correct- ness right up until evening. (Copyright, 1930.) convex mirror, popular in Colonial America, is enjoying s revival. The convex mirrors of our forefathers which are being reproduced today were sur- mounted by a screaming eagle, bow and arrow intertwined with a quiver and hunting horn, or such rustic motifs as a sickle, wheat shock, pitchfork and rake in gold leaf. In addition to their traditional uses, mirrors now serve as table centerpieces, three-leaved bed room screens and dressing table tops. For years there has been a trend toward the increasing use of mirrors in every room of the house from kitchen to guest room. This increased popu- larity has brought out their variety. Garden Privacy Is at Premium More and more Americans are appre- ciating the value of privacy in their gardens. It is a sane idea this, that we | plant lovely lawns and grow shrubs and trees not to form a park for the admir- |ing gaze of motorists and neighbors, but to furnish us with a little kingdom of outdoors all our own, where we can live and breathe and have our being unbeholden and unmolested. The stone wall is practicable only in uclz’x:m 'mhe !h.:gur suitable tm walls may or the Brick walls, though ph:tln'elq‘l:e. espe- cially when grown with clinging vines, are amazingly high in price. In fact, not infrequently the estimate for run- ning a substantial wall about a garden amounts to a figure not much less than the cost of the house within the garden. ‘The hedge of trees, shrubs or vines then comes to our aid. It furnishes as attractive a sight for the passerby as it does from within. Very frequently, of course, privet and other hedge shrubs seem to be planted only for the sake of dividing one prop- erty from another or one section of the 'n from another. Then there is reason in keeping the hedge clipped back. But the hedge that is built for the purpose of giving protection should be clipped only enough to give the roots strength and to give it a trim appear- ance. . Much is being.done nowadays with firs and other evergreens for hedges. Nursery men have gone to the ends of the earth for trees and shrubs that would withstand the extremes of our ‘Musor of gold-backed crystal or silver- backed amber glass, which imparts 8 mellow quality to the reflection. Porcelain mirror frames are being im- ported from the potteries of Central Europe. Housewives fortunate enough to possess heirlooms of heavy old wal- nut picture frames are havi them M’wun mirrors. The ll.m‘;llxoh. or climate. A recently introduced fir has come from the east coast of Asia, where the plants are accustomed to a hotter Summer and colder Winter than we coolness and chic of that! Beware Bragging About Your Work It is a natural failing for a man, or & woman, either, to look at the whole world through, the eyes of his profes- sion. But this leads to narrow-minded- ness, for even the best of professions only encompass a narrow sector of the world's interests. If you were always to associate with persons of your own pro- fession or members of their families this might be all right. But since you must meet and talk with others of other callings it is wise to stretch your outlook a little or you will make yourself un- popular. The Army man or the wife of the Army man regards Army officers and their familles as constituting the aris- tocracy of the country. Then you meet a man in Navy or the wife of & Navy officer and she shrugs her shoul- ders at other people. College professors and their families are apt to regard themselves as more intellectual than other people. The popular writer in turn looks on the professor as lacking in knowledge of the world. The man in Wall Street, no matter what his position, regards himself as a budding financier—a pos- sible money king, and to be a money king, thinks he, is to hold the ropes that pull the world. This, at least, is the attitude of many persons in many professions. Isn't it true of yourself to a certain extent? Don't you look at the other man’s kind of work as inferior to your own? Per- haps you do this only occasionally and probably you do not, let this attitude in- terfere with your social conduct toward other people, But beware of letting this attitude dominate you. And re- member that the men at the top of any profession or calling are usually the ones who best realize the limitations of that calling or profession. Travel Mendin; Bags Important One of the articles most often for- gotten when people pack trunks or bags to go away for a Summer outing is the mending bag. It seems usually that if you do all your mending and sewing be- fore you start away you will “stay mended” at least while you are gone. But rents will come, stitches will come unsewed and, most often of all, buttons ‘will loosen or come off. For your traveling mending bag select something substantial and durable. A good-sized cretonne bag made with a half dozen or so little pockets on the inside is a good sort. In one of the pockets you may put the half dozen different spools of thread you will need, in another you might put your needle book, in another braid and tape, in an- other the darning equipment, and so on. For your buttons it is a good plan to have a little bag to put inside your large bag. Select the buttons for this bag with reference to the clothes you are wearing, remembering to add a few snappers and hooks and eyes in black and white. It is always a good plan to have a bit of plain white cotton material to use in mending or making re-enforce- ment for clothes. In your mending bag you might also remember to put your tape needle and a reel of lingerie rib- bo or lingerie tape. There should be white tape for making shirt strings, and the mending bag is a good place to keep additional shoe strings. Scissors are articles that so easily be- come mislaid or lost that it is a Brides Have They Must Be Demure And Very Feminine, With Bit of Elegance About Accessories. Value in Family Laces Is Recognized. .You who go down the bridal path this June probably know by now just how elaborately you can gown yourself this season. % You must, first of all, be demure. Secondly, you must be very, very femi- nine. Third, you must have & bit of elegance about your accessories. I suppose the bridal vell is the most interesting accessory to most of you June brides. If you have lots of lace in the family you can use it up that way. If you have even a bit, use it for the cap o which the tulle attaches. Since many a modern young bride has no garret in her home, much less fine old lace stored away, you can be Jjust as chic if you take a hand in your own headdress and embroider a little tulle coronet in erystals or in pearls. Some of the sweetest and daintiest wed- ding veils have this type of cap. You can take your A)lck whether you carry a little white kid or satin covered g:-yer book, with its gold cross = g on the front, or an old-fashioned nosegay of orange blossoms, lilies of the valley and white orchids framed by a ruching of the veil's tulle and with flounced streamers of the tulle. You can take the tiniest of little bunches of orange blossoms, back it effectively by lace paper, then tulle, and make it into & quaint, lovely bouquet. You will perhaps walk a little more steadily to the “Lohen ¥ march if you have on new grnmpl. Theybwcom in mfle v-rleZy gorgeous es, D crepe de chine and in plain satins, though I think satin always your feet look larger. The newest b incorpo- rate the oruwm in their rich pattern and the edges with the tiniest banding of silver. Long gloves you just must have this Summer. Do choose plain ones with little pear] buttons, for they are much more elegant than fancy ones and look so pretty under the tulle vell. The less which yet have much gracefulness. Formal Year they have on them in the way of stitch- ing the better they will look. You can allow your extravagant soul a lot of leeway in the bridal handker- chief this year. It i8 no wisp of a bit of lace they will show you, so don’t expect it. Exquisite fine chiffon hankies come man sized, with the finest of lace edgings and a little lace monogram in the corner. They are pure dead white, or if the bride goes into off white they follow suit. Pearls, 1 aupposs, you will choose, as you cannot make a mistake in wearing rls, for they are universally becom- And since this is a formal brides, you will do well to look at some of the lovely crystal bracelets that come in smart new shapes. One will look very attractive over your white gloves. r for You can have one of the bracelts that |89 combine pearls and crystals, if you want to match up your necklace. But it isn’t necessary. Just keep everything white, and that is that! Bridal gowns themselves choose vari- ous patterns, but each one is distinctly feminine. The short skirt, which had its innings at weddings as well as at every other occasion, never was in keep- ing with the solemnity of the marriage ceremony. Now the train has a proper setting of ankle-length skirts. ‘White satin continues to be a favorite for the wedding dress. Long sleeves and court trains are featured on the |find more formal gowns, and puffed sleeves and flared lk{l?u. with or without the train, on others. Bridesmaids’ gowns adhere as closely to soft cloud pinks and blues as the bride’s gown s to white. Likewise bridesmaids’ accessories are every bit as true to theh one color scheme. Slippers, hose, hats and necklaces match up with the dress. -Blue and pink pearls and crystals are very popular. ‘The piquancy of the skirt that stands out like a story book illustration, short puffed sleeves and large hats that droop mysteriously add old-fashioned charm to bridesmalds’ costumes, Chiffon. ‘The printed chiffon dress has made its reappearance for warm weather wear and is likely to be as much liked this Summer as last. Usually the flower prints are small and almost always the dresses are sleeveless, with the shoulders cover berr.h:‘:. by means of cape collars or Many of the new printed chiffon dresses show fine pleating of the chiffon on the skirt or sometimes on deep Jjabots of collars. Chanel and Patou set the precedent for this sort of thing. Country Club Clothes \NE CANNOT imagine quite what life was before the days of the country 1s congregate. e Ihie looking, agile creatures whole interest of the place centers but also the social ivities. Here 'rh:{ play tennis, golf and swim, for result is that a generation is growing with minds as active as their Clothes for country club wear, whether for active sport or spectator, ‘must be more or less according to rule. Each sport has | dress and no liberties can be taken with it nor does it chan; ear. Take, for instance, the sleeveless pique tenn y & uniform—one-plece, pleated skirt, the dress—it is only variation being ‘whether the neck be cut round, square or V. And so with the golf and riding clothes. fhn to attach some sort of identifica- lon to yours. A thin piece of wood or & plece of cardboard, bearing the name of have here, and are therefore sure to withstand our extremes. Great expense also has been taken to get shrubs and trees suitable for windbreaks in the try- ing seashore climate, the owner, may be attached to { the handles by means of a :mufm‘ Other scratch their Poe biades of the sclsors ikt 8 pin identification. with a| | Spectator things are simple, too, ‘This year much cotton is being used ble idea. For all than continually early Fall. for such clothes it is far to the cleaners. What you save on cle ’ bills this- WMDM'NCMMMI"mflm but, of course, more leeway is allowed. this of dress and it is a sensi- Better 1o have them g0 in the tub Fashion decrees lace for semi-formal evening wear —and what more effective for Summer than a white There are lines—sweeping and grace- ful-—in the one shown above and they are both dig- A onesided cape effect is flagtering end a long skirt trails off in back in a smart train. Nothing could be more feminine and sophisticated for a Summer evening. lace frock? nified and youthful. Be Sure to Know What You Must Wear There are always some people who away on Summer holidays insuffi- clently protected against possible cool weather. The June bride is quite apt to do this. She has planned a Sum- mer trousseau and ti includes no wraps save very thin ones, and she doesn't want to take anything with her on her wedding journey except her new things. If she took a heavy coat it would have to be an old one—she shudders at the idea of last year's camel's hair coat. So she and her husband go on their holiday to seashore or moun- tains and even in June or July they the evenings and early mornings cool. Motoring or boating they are as chilly as a home in late Autumn. Many persons who go abroad for the first time carry insufficlent warm wraps with them—and they look wretched as they shiver in their steamer chairs with thin coat collars turned up and a :rmu steamer rug tucked closely about hem. If you are going away even for a few days to a place you have never visited before, you will be much better content when you get there if you send ahead now to make inquiries con- cernlnuhe sort of clothes that you would best carry with you. Often you will find that you will need some special sort of footwear. Along sandy beaches you will need canvas shoes. If the sand is deep it may be that you will need g pair of canvas shoes that lace up over the ankles, to keep the sand out of the shoes. If you are going boating it may be that will “need ers, for your -soled shoes would not be permitted on board a fine sail boat or canoe. There are rules regarding foot- wear on some tennis courts. It may be—dreadful thought—that there are snakes in the woods where you are going, and for tramping and mountain _climbing you may be advised to take high shoes of stout leather as a matter of precaution. Coat Matches Frock. With the very long skirts that are essential to eve- ning chic this season we find the smartest Summer wraps in short perky capes or jackets to comple- ment them. And could a wrap be more charming than the transparent velvet evening cape shown above—gathered in at the waist only to flare out again in a circular peplum? A bow of galapin is the trivial and chic touch. Clothes May Make or Mar the Summer Holiday—Dress for Traveling Should Be Becoming and Easy to Pack—Away From Home, Person Is Judged Very Often by Wardrobe—Lace Is Excellent Choice, Be- cause of Gallant Way It Withstands Packing. BY MARY MARSHALL. O THE WOMAN with a normally developed fondness for clothes part of the pleasure of a Sum- mer holiday consists of plan- ning and assembling the holiday wardrobe, and not the least important feature about the European tour is the collection of dresses, wraps and acces- !Ofl; that are to be put in the steamer trunk. There is no reason why one should choose extrs clothes for any sort of travel nowadays. In general style and appearance, the clothes you choose to ‘wear abroad should be very much like the clothes you would choose to wear at home, but there are certain require- ments that they must meet if they are to prove generally satisfactory. 1t is well to remember that when you are away from home you will be judged much more by the clothes you wear than you are at home where friends and ac- quaintances make allowances for possi- ble shortcomings and eccentricities of dress. N IN EVERY community there are women of good social position who go in for rather freakish clothes, which come to Be acceptable as a pardonable pecul- farity by those who know them. But when these selfsame women make their appearance as strangers at a Summer hotel or on board an ocean liner they are judged primarily by their clothes. And if the clothes are freakish it is only naturally that onl should con- clude that the women bel to the grand order of freaks. A tendency to untidiness or shabbi- ness which is overlooked among friends may in like in the way of manner the | the success of one's Summer holidays. small girls. Taffeta Wraps ‘The little evemn{' WLlp that fl;m oung WOmAD Wan! possess gum;\er is made of taffeta. These jackets -are intentionally very quaint, mpmn( in at the waist, with a bustle- e fllflm“ hips. And they are & coal that poses as evening wrap. ‘The first bit of advice, then, to the ‘woman m a wardrobe for holi- days away from home is this: In select- ing your holiday wardrobe, the first thing to bear in mind is that you will be Jjudged by your clothes far more than you are at hom:. e 'HE next thing to consider is the obvious fact that holiday clothes have to be packed in trunks or travel- ing Materials such as organdie and eta, which are all for e and afternoon dresses lace is an excellent choice because of the a hanger in the open air. Figured prints and wool mixtures have certain advantages since they show water spots and the general wear and tear of travel lu:s readily than materials of solid colors, As much as possible, evening dresses in the travel wardrobe should be of the several-occasion sort. Dresses that can be worn only for the extremely formal occasions are hardly worth their lug- gage space, The formal afternoon dress should be of a sort that also can be worn for informal dining and dancing. If you travel with only one hat bag, your choice of hats is most imj t. e, e rincs T, I, e wear and of supple ma- terial, so that it will not be it soft hats of the beret and turban are placed about it in the hat box, (Copyright. 1930.) For the Steamer No matter what sort of clothes you take to wear on board steamer you will usually find that the comfortable sort of sports costume best serves for almost