Evening Star Newspaper, January 5, 1930, Page 53

Well Chosen Negligees Serve the Cause of Thrift and Give Sat- isfaction to Wearers —Hostess Dress or Robe Follows Lines of Season’s Garments in General — Color Determines Choice = of Costume Jewelry. C that it is economy to change street clothes, for sitting around & house wrinkles them and spoils thelr crisp. definite, tailored appearance. “Tere s n siill greater value to the indi- ‘vidual in this change. Soft and flatter- ing, responsive and appealing in color, these house things express the esthetic in clothes. When we change into them, we slip off the cares of the day and a sense of “all is well with the world" creeps over us. Even though the hours of leisure are not actual, and we must carry on, entertain friends and play our part in social life, attractive house clothes can change our viewpoint and revive our spirits, Therc are two distinct types of these things, hostess gowns and lounging pa- Jjamas. Of both the variety is almost endless. And because we are allowing ourselves now to be feminine—the grace- ful, flowing, molded hostess gowns are more in demand today, even by young women, than pajamas. Hostess gowns demand, however, a certain dignity and poise 50 that the nonchalance and casual nature of the pajamas continue to please those who delight in express- ing their ideas of freedom in clothes as well as in actions. T \mem the hostess gown takes on the character of a dress or a robe, it follows the lines of the season's dresses; curved in at the waist to give the higher line with upward movement in front and dipping back. Trained effects, capes, flowing sleeves, soft rounded movements, fur edgings and long scarfs are characteristics of these gowns. They are distinguished from other informal dresses by the richness of the fabrics and the brilliance of the color combinations. ‘The princess silhouette is a favorite here. the fitted sheath extending to the hipline or the knees where fullness sup- plied by circular flounces, godets or one of the flare-producing devices, gives the width and length. Some of the skirts extend only a few inches below the knees in front, and the circular flounces or panels fall into trains in the back. Others are full length, touching the ankles in front and the heel or the ground in the back The sleeve is often cut in ohe with the bodice and is extremely wide to the wrist, where it is caught into a tight deep cuff. It may be draped to- bring the fullness in wing-like falls at the wrist. | Often it is embroidered or of BY HELEN DRYDEN. LOTHES for our hours of ease sound like a luxury. But they are not. Every woman knows Jace, even though the gown be of chif- | fon or satin. Louiseboulanger prefers | short or elbow sleeves in her hostess gowns,: which are inclined to be medi- eval i3 type, with fitted walsts an full paneled or tiered skirts touchin the heels or trailing. % ) M[OIRES. both plam and_printed; | taffeta, brocaded; satin, plain and | brocaded; chiffon, plain and glistening with metallic threads; a variety of metallic cloths; crepe de chine; laces and nets, all singly and in combination, are used in making soul-satisfying | gowns. Glorious and sumptuous as these labrics are, it is in the color| blendirgs that their beauty becomes so appealing. An overdress of gold embroidered net is combined with black velvet, peaver outlining the neck. A princess gown of brocaded taffeta displays an under- dress of lace, while one of black velvet is outlined in silver lJame and combined with pink chiffon. Dusky-hued laces are mounted over chiffon for circular flounces and on satin of the same coloring. A tobacco-tinted lace gown mounted over toast chiffon and combined with metallic brocade is worn ‘with a surplus blouse of vivid red crepe de cl . _An ecru Chantilly lace gown edged with ecru tulle has a bow and stréamers of turquoise velvet. It will be good news to those who de- mand warmth in these garments to learn that quilted satin robes are now designed on princess lines. These are curved at the side seams and have an attached circular flounce to dip at the back and close over the hips in front in an upward movement. The collars are either rolled or they are of the shawl or tuxedo order and there is often & huge bow upholding them in the back. The only trimming is ostrich and ma- rabou, alone or together, and occasion- ally two-tone ostrich with the marabou as inside edging. In the latest version you will find many patterned silks. Trousers and coats of bright startling designs are worn with a monotone blouse, or trou- ters and blouse in monotone may have a jacket in which the design of the print is used as a decorative motif. When the pajamas are in the monotone - the print will be adapted as trimming y. in a striking and unconventional way. Ways to Spend Gift Money Woman Who Shops b | You will also see trousers and blouse in the printed crepe and the jacket of georgette in the same design, or differ- | ent color ~ combinations of ' the same 3 s T is often possble to create a hostess gown or transform plain crepe or satin pajamas into the formal version by what is known as a negligee coat. ‘This may be bought separately and one of the more elaborate coats of this set may be worn over a lace-trimmed slip or sheath-like satin evening gown of last season's vintage. Black reversible satin or velvet coats, usually of the three-quarter length, or even longer, are simplest. They are lined with vivid shades, bright blue, emerald n, tomato red, gold, etc.. and bandings of this gay lining are used as trimming. The most elaborate ex- | amples follow the lines of evening coats. Fur is used a3 edging. panels are dapted to give length, dipping in the back to suggest, if not actually to form, trains, and and pleats are produce the flare. Some ly at-the waist have flaring u ‘the rognded fronts and dipping backs. For those who must seek warmth in these garments the French designers, remembet the bitter cold of last Winter in Paris, have created woolen | versions. One type has the tailored double-breasted effect in a rose beige | fancy woolen, cut in modified redingote | effect and trimmed with tailored revers and cuffs of turquoise velvet. A white satin coat cut on straight lines has a hand knitted lining of white Shetland wool which is light, and yet warm. Still another type verges very closely on the formal afternoon jacket we have been call the “five-to-eight” because it is worn at this time over a sleeveless gown and discarded later to make of the gown a formal evening costume. This coat may be of satin heavily beaded, of moire or brocaded taffeta, of lace in the dark hues or dyed to match the gown, of net heavily pailletted, of transparent velvet, of metal embroidered chiffons and satins, and of metal cloths. One of lame in vivid coloring is lined in brilliant sheer velvet, a fich green, old blue, dahlia, or | brilliant red. Another in golden brown | velvet is lined with peach lace trimmed satin, and has a fabric flower decorating the side closing. Bince these garments for our leisure hours afford the best of opportunities to indulge in color schemes, color de- termines the choice of costume jewelry. Stately, flowing robes of sumptuous fabrics demand finer types of jewelry, colored stones in silver or real marcasf| settings in designs copled from rare old French pieces. Ermine trimmed black velvet robes and white satin pajamas call for black and white | Jewelry, crystals and onyx, pearls and jet. For the latter, a necklace of oddly shaped black galalith beads enlivened | by a ribbon-like twist of colored mirrors | backed with metal would be sufficiently | individual and unusual. (Copyrignt, 1930 associates itself with the lives of regal and romantic ladies. And because every BLACK SATIN. | THIS PAJAMA COSTUME CONSISTS OF BLACK SATIN TROUSERS WITH GODETS TO GIVE WIDTH, BLACK YOKE AND GIRDLE AND CHARTREUSE SATIN TOP WITH FLARING SLEEVES WIDENED BY GODETS OF | Longer Skirts Are Not Too Long for Com- fort—Wearers Like More Graceful Lines Provided, But Have Rebelled at Discom- fort — Approved Styles Declared to Meet All Needs of Wearers—Some Ad- vantages. BY MARY MARSHALL. N _the last anal it is the women who wear clof who are respon- sible for the fashions, and while we like to blame the dressmakers, importers and manufacturers, future generations will not be inclined so to place the blame or praise for the fashions of our day. We look at the hooped skirts tiny waists of some Godey's Lady k print of the 1860 period and-—however much we may like the print as a decoration for a tele- phone screen or a waste basket—we say to ourselves: “How foolish 'women must have been to be willing to wear clothes like that?” ‘Three decades of our own century have passed—decades in which there was an almost uninterrupted tendency toward clothes for women that were comfortable. more hygienic and more sensible. What—one wonders—will the next decade show? Will the present desire for clothes that are more feminine, more alluring, lead us back to long, cumbersome skirts, tight bodices and absurdly trimmed hats? Are we starting off now on a reaction from simplicity and good sense that will lead women during the next 30 years to & phase of fashions that will be as grotesque as those of 18602 Possibly if we sit back and let designers and = dressmakers follow their own | caprices some such thing might come to pass—but I am convinced that it is the women themselves who determine the fashions of the age, and it is hard to believe that women really want clothes that are less comfortable or less practical than those to which they have become aecustomed. * ok Ok K AS A matter of fact fashions for the late Winter and early Summer are not—or at least need not be—any less sensible than those of the last decade. It is not dresses as they are that have started the loud protests against long skirts and it waists 50 much as dresses as we fear they are going to be. Look. over any collection of smart clothes for Winter resort wear—clothes of the sort that will be worn ‘every- where this Spring and Summer—and you will see sports dresses that are just as light in weight, .and that permjt just as great freedom of motion, as those that weére worn last Summer or the Summer ‘before. The inch or so added to the skirt length could not possibly cramp any one’s style on the tennis court or golf course. Even when skirts were at.their shortest there were certain French d vised an additional inch on skirts for golf to avold the appearance of ex- | cessive shortmess when arms are raised for a drive. m‘Dflresus“rzr Street wear are nsrl:nler e w long, uneven 7. B e et chosen thix” “ of - dress for wear about town. A few additional inches of length aré offset by mdded fullneas about the And if you are one ly opposed . to ]m on having the skirts i e clothes shortened. dresses are frankly a8 they have been for Many women have held out against.them, while others, wisely snou, , have worn them merely by way of d a8 an e ent— version-—or feeling somehow mvmeedwth"ant the ;nhlon would not become fixed Ex'mnn'm prompt to accept cer- tain fashion changes, capable even of blazing the trail for Paris in A new fashion—as was the case in the “high brow” hat fashion which was really launched by the American flap- m—Amn women are occasionally dy in their response to fashion edicts from Paris. This tardiness has been especially noteworthy in the case of the loni . skirt which was presented by the French dressmakers more than s year Ago and is now something of an old story in . At present, while many American women are still trying to make up their minds to wear the new long skirts, French women are l.nkohlfgm With favor on slightly shorter i ing of the past am "e:al:' wmnd en lrz:. wllg:ln ncnppursogr'\ resses is usually decidedly lhnl;, o T h we lament the passing or .Mh:lm :e.llfl"&‘nol’ '";o uniformly ., We must no had certain disadvantages. e were unbecoming—and now at last the wom- an who chooses to hide her knees need not do 80 with the feeling that she will look dowdy or oldfashioned. (Copyright, 1930.) LA s h A A Sy S AN | 8 Bl e kA ARSIRLEANL A v AL € St A A AL A A A AR A PR ERAI A AR A ARG AENIN Heels_May Vary With Occupation Some girls are flat-footed, even in childhood, but many more acquire flat woman yearns in some way,to imitate their mode of living she beholds in the chaise longue a furnishing suggestive of their luxurious surroundings. But aside from its Tomantic appeal, the chaise longue is a very practical ad- Now May Have| Thrill of Buying| Something for Her- THE SHORT, EVEN HEMLINE IS RETAINED IN THIS HOSTESS GOWN OF GRAY IFFON AND BLACK AND GOLD BROC HTREE-I‘IECE PAJAMA COSTUME OF BLACK AND WHITE SATIN COMBINED IN MODERN THE SLEEVES, CU'l"l ONE WITH THE BODICE, HAVE BAN S 'HE _HIP-LENGTH COAT OPENS OVER SLEEVELESS MAILLOT OF WHITE SATIN WITH 0 BLACK VELVET HOSTESS GOWN FEATURING THE NEW self — New Furnish- ing Will Lend Tone to Interior. HE day after Christmas finds the stores almost as crowded as the day before. Wemen are out spending their Christmas checks. For nothing restores & woman's shopping faculties more ef- fectively than the possession of & gen- erous Christmas check. After weeks of strenuous buying for other people she at last is to experience the thrill of buying something for herself. Some women think immediately of "something for self-adornment. Others prefer to adorn their homes and thus share the gift with others. Perhaps these generous souls really get the most fun and enjoyment out of their Christmas money. In its expend- jture they do not feel called upon to consult the taste of any one else in the home: Undoubtedly what a woman wants most is some non-essential accessory— some furnishing that she has denied herself for years because it was possi- ble to get on without it. Yet how much tone its presence will lend to an inte- rior which has almost become bored with itself, Lamps, for instance. Unless they are exceptionally valuable and do not show tie ravages of time and dust, lamps, or their shades, should be discarded fre- qdently. Moreover, since their styles change with almost the speed of wom- en’s clothes, lamps need to be ushered out of a room bodily. 1f some such drastic move is contem- plated it might be refreshing to the sur- roundings and the family to introduce a p. mehow “the chaise longue always dition to the bed room large enough to include one. One hesitates in the day | time to rest on the smartly made bed. While the chaise longue, ample in {length and flanked on all sides with pillows and a light fancy comfortable, seems just the most perfect temporary rela(lxal place for thé busy woman's 40 rorey E |~ Decorated tiles are now coming into | popular favor. One pattern is com- | { posed of mauve flowers and green leaves | and can be used to advantage in con- | | junction with table or tea service. | The handsome wrought-iron candle- stick is another distinctive and charm- ing idea for a Christmias check invest- {ment. A pair would be a most fitting complement to a table set in the Italian | mode. They would also make handsome | living room accessories especially against a background of rough plaster walls, Interior decorations no doubt are re- sponsible for the present exploitation {of the coffeq table. Hardly ever does | one see a living room planned without | & coffee table in close proximity to a large thair or divan. Now the depart- | ment stores are reproducing antique | coffee tables of all periods and featuring ‘lhem in their living room schemes. |~ Aside from their convenience for the | after-dinner coffee service they also pro- vide the most satisfactory resting places for books and magazines when an after- noon or evening of browsing is to be indulged at full length on the couch. | "In a corner the mellow sheen of the | pewter water pitcher would probably | prove irresistible to the woman who ap- | preciates the subtle charm of this metal. Water pitchers primarily designed for |efficient_table service should be large | | enough to hold plenty of water. ‘There are some new card tables shown | now which, when not in use and tilted | upward, form a screen to stand against an unused fireplace. Their decorated surface is af ive for screen | hemline extending only 6 inches or so | for the fencelike shaw] collar of these | t and playing purposes. 3 CHIFFON AND METAL CLOTH, AND THE HIGH WAISTLINE IS DE- FINED BY BELT AND BUCKLE, Long Skirts, 'WHAT sort of coat to wear with the formal afternoon gown is a vex- atious problem. With dresses of even below the knee, it may be solved by the full-length coat. But you can't| wear a coat of this length with the | long skirt and not look dowdy unless | it follows the lines of the dresc. The best answer here is generally conceded to be the short coat of the same color as the dress, if not of the same fabric as well. Generous use is made of fur, which is often used as a border as well as coats. Mink, marten, fox and ermine, both white and natural, are considered a little more formal for these coats than caracals and other flat pelts of that type. Velvet is a favorite choice, made slightly longer at the back and shaped to curve upward in the front. Capes are often used on this more formal type of coat, usually made of the coat fabric bordered with fur, Very often it is adjusted so that it may be drawn close to the throat and serve as a collar, ‘The formal afternoon gown has| brought back with it the so-calied eve- ning hat, for with these long-sleeved dresses many women prefer to wear a hat. This hat may have a brim or it may be a mere cap of the naive baby nets are made of gold or Short Coats from a round piece in the back.” One in gold has a curtain brim of brown velvet in the back, while another of| silver has a black satin piping around the face and a ruching of with a flat bow of black velvet across the back. The face lines of these bon- nets conform to the style of hair dress- ing. Those on the right side simulate a right parting. Equally Populn are the wrap-around turbans of tulle and velvet, embroid- ered and pailletted. The fabric is wound tightly around the head and tied in a bow at the side, but preferably at the back, as Agnes, its sponsor, does. Blondes usually prefer gold and bru- S SILHOUETTE SHORT IN FRONT AND WITH TRAIN AT BACK. GOLD PANELING DEC. ORATES THE BACK AND SERVES AS DEEP CUFFS. RIGHT: HOSTESS GOWN OF EMERALD GREEN CHIFFON BROCADED IN VELVET SQUARES WIT? DS OF VELVET BORDER THE WIDE SLI DEEP B/ LY FITTED WAISTLINE. nettes silver, both in these turbans and in the metallic baby bonnet. Aznes has made an evening hat with the brim of lace, tulle or net. Here we have the brim turned off the face and silver lace, | down at the back. This is the line we have been wearing in velvet and it is of velvet that the majority of hats worn at smart formal afternoon functions are made. Even velvet is now used for hats with brims, and fur trimmings today are the favorite. A model with turned-back brim, for example, has a band of Sum- mer ermine strapped across the back and slashed through the sides of the brim where it appears at the front in a large button effect. Leisure Costumes Are Lovely ‘What woman is there who does not anticipate her hours of relaxa- tion as a time when she wants to look her best? After a hectic day, whether her life be in the world of pleasure, or the world of business, how she looks forward to those precious hours between 5§ and 7 o'clock! To slip into a lovely negligee, be it teagown or pajamas, is what every one wants to do as soon as she reaches home. She may be alone or with a few intimates over a cup of tea, but she simply must look pretty, for it is an aid to relaxation and she feels all the more rested to start out for the evening's gayety. Then, too, there is that fatal mistake that many young married women make, Who are not clever enough to realize how important it is to look attractive when their husbands come home tired from business. Men do not like to sée women I looking bed: has caused many a marriage to go on the roc! raggled. This sort of thing i : Intimate apparel has never been as charming as it is today and there is no excuse for a woman not owning at least one lovely for_her HELEN D! aby bon: mverwmeah in seétions which radiate informal hours at home, costume COEN IRREGULAR HEMLINE, FALLING IN POINTS, EEVES AND GIRDLE OF VELVET GIVES SNUG- Successful Hair Curling AT LEAST half of the time spent on practical work by the prospec- tive beautician who is a student at the beauty school, is devoted to learning the art of curling hair. To acquire co- ordination of the muscles necessary for successfully curled hair much me- chanical skill must be developed. The growing insistence upon stressing individuality given the beauticlan new problems to solve, for she must understand facial outlines and contours if she would produce waves that will be individual enough to sult each patron. Among the waves which ‘are taught in- the beauty school today are mar- «<elling, water waves, finger waves, paper curling, end curls, round curls and permaneat nvlnf. Although hair curling has become an almost universal custom the trend of the times seems to advocate styles that emphasize individuality. For this reason the beauty -student learns a variety of methods for evolving slightly different styles for éach patron. ‘The severity of millinery has brought about a severity of coiffure or vice vera.' At any rate, straight or curly, the halr is arranged to suit the face of each particular person. It is thought i| by some that with the return of long hait the round curl will come once more into its own. Marcel, the Frenchman who created the Marcel wave, made his curls 8 ‘manTpuation - of - the vb‘m with his fingers and an especially de- signed iron. He evolved his method after years of study of naturally curly hair. "For years he kept his method a secret, but as he grew older he imparted it to others and its popularity spread until it became a part of the duty of every beauty operator, It is now done with the marcelling iron and a comb instead of fingers. With our desire for speed and the rush of modern times came an inten- sive study of hair structure and perma- nent waving was the result. Research work demonstrated how many kinds of hair there are, how the cells of natur- ally curly bhair differed from straight hair and how the hair could stretched and the cells flattened after it was softened with chemicals and baked ‘with electricity into permanent curls. As & close second to permanent waves came the demand for comb waving and water waving. It has become so pop- ular that barbers with sufficient knowl- edge of contours have been able to en- Ill‘f‘ their clientele and their bank- rolls by learning only these three methods. — A Frankfort, Germany, salesman has reported to officials conducting a lottery that he bought the winning ticket, call- ing for $37,500, but threw it into the fire with other papers while he was cleaning- out ‘his pockets, 4 feet during the first few years of mar- ried life as & result of prolonged stand- Ing incldental to housework. Standing actually puts more strain on the feet than walking and is fatiguing not only to feet and legs, but to the entire body. Doctors have pointed out that persons who suffer from -flat feet are usually rather debilitated, as a result of the se- vere muscular strain, An improvement of general health through proper diet and good habits helps one to combat & tendency to this trouble. . More important still is the choice of right shoes—and this ‘means shoes sulted to the occasion. Once the opin- ion was prevalent that harm came from changing the height of the heels— wearing flat-heeled shoes in the morn- ing for tennis and high heels in the evening for dancing. Actual experience shows that this change in itself does no_harm, For tennis and gymnasium work, where the entire foot must have free play, low heels are necessary, while for walking a somewhat higher heel would be | be more comfortable and really better for the foot. Needless to say, a really high heel is uncomfortable and injuri- ous for prolonged walking. ‘The firmness and stability of the heel are a factor that is as important to consider in the walking shoe as actual height. A moderately h heel that is straight and firm and keeps the. feet from wabbling is better than a lower heel that does not give the foot a firm support. High heels of cheap construc- tion that slips forward or sidewise with every step can do serious injury and may result in soreness of the muscles as well as injury to the feet. Certain forms of dancing, of course, gnollnu- o r s rr it ns rni