Evening Star Newspaper, February 3, 1929, Page 53

¢ White, Black and Inguria Rose Now PARIS. DWHERE better than at smart Paris restaurants can the new- - est themes of French fashions be witnessed. Here at tea time, at dinner and in the evenings are assembled the smartest women in Parls, wearing inmevitably the latest creations of the haute couture. Here, 100, more than anywhere else is possible & personal interpretation of the mode. Not only is it possible, but it is actually essential to dress according to type at | these smart French rendezvous. White is, at present, most fashionable for Paris evening wear, and it is very becoming to dark or auburn hair of near a warm or very white skin, with natural or artificial colored cheeks and expressive featu Bright colored Jewelry, like emeralds, rubies or sap- phires, can be worn as necklace, ear- rings, bracelet or brooch. Black s al- ways very siriking when worn with blond hair and brightened up by pearls or diamonds. It is just now very fash- jonable and it can be effectively en- livened by a colored wrap. Dresses of intense colors, such as scarlet, sap- phire or charteuse green, are also in | vogue and becoming to the same type ©f woman. Incidentally, the newest way of dress- #ng the hair for the evening is to wave 1t and brush it back, with or without a front or side parting, thus showing all | the forehead, with the extremities of | and fullness must be given to the skirt portion of the dinner dress, one must | not lose sight of the fact that most of | the time restaurant dresses must also | serve as dancing frocks. If the lower | | part of the skirt can be made of circular | | frills, detached wings and panels, one | | must avoid trains that would not loo% well if held up on the arm. Circular, faille or mire gowns for young women, and frilled pastel nets or chiffons for | debutantes, are always very effective. Chiffon dresses, beaded all over a jumper | top and placed on a back drooping flared skirt of plain chiffon, are among the smartest dinner dresses of the new sea- son. Colored metallized leather shoes and shoes of specially prepared silk and | metal damask are worn for evenings. | but the popular slipper du soir, of pump or sandal shape, is made of satin. The newest trimming on satin pumps is a | rhinestone or colored glass small bow motif placed at one side. | The general effect of the dinner and | dancing costumes seen at these hotels is | one of simplicity. Yet it is a very mic- | leading simplicity and once you begin to dissect it you discover it isn't sim- plicity at all but a highly involved com- | plexity, with a deceptively smooth | flared back or bright-colored taffetas, | THE SUNDAY STAR. WASHINGTON, ue. For once, this coming Spring, chic will be more than surfac: | Youth Leads Revival the short hair forming a mass of curls across the back of the head, over the | nape. | When the hair and complexion arc not very bright, some soft or warm | colors will be more suitable. Deep tones | of rose, old blue or leaf green or else | delicate pastel tones will suit any com- ! plexion and throw attractive notes of | color in & room. | In the way of noveltles to take the | place of the popular poppy, or ponceau | reds, a new bright rose pink called foguria is being featured. Lavender blue is at the moment very popular for -evening wear, while women who wish for a neutral tint ‘can choose a parch- ment shade, a flesh tint or a pale tone of ash pink. If a fur or a velvet or satin wrap is not worn, or if a transparent neck scarf of chiffon or lace does not accompany gown of the same fabric, the front- opened hipsac cocktail jacket, match- ing the trimmed part of the dress, is sufficiently elegant and also practical, for it can be quickly taken off for dancing purposes. Soek IN & dinner’ gown the bodice part of the dress has, of course, to be care- fully studied so as to be becoming and effective, but the fashion viewpoint, which just now means neat, straight and rather untrimmed bodices, must not be forgotten. The neck opening is verv important. - According to the shoulders, 1t can be cut square, round or pointed. ‘The asymmetric opening, slanting from the right shoulder to the base of the left shoulder strap, is smart and very strik- ing this season. For women who have a tendency to round shoulders the suggestion of an 1860 decollete, with a net bertha under it, over a picture dress, will be found most attractive. The pointed up open- ing of a detached bolero tied at the cen- ter of the decollete into a flat bow also forms a smart line. ‘Though a great deal of importance BN Of Lengthened Locks IT can never be said that the modern- istic fashion era is over until at least two of the big three post-war style themes have been relegated to the limbo of the demodee. Short hair, short skiris and the conforming silhouette have en- joyed an undisturbed reign for nearly a decade, and although the time is becom- | ing ripe for an end of this triumvirate, it is a moot question as to whether mi- lady is really ready for the change. The short feminine coiffure, which de- serves first place in this discussion, un- derwent a swift and remarkable revolu- tion during and jusi after the World War. Most smart fashionables of today can remember when bobbed heads were not only wholly out of fashion, but also the badge of a soclal order which was quite without caste. Despite the fact that the conveniences of the abbreviated coif were quite as obvious as they are today, the gentle pre-war maidens would have none of their doughty allurements. | Very suddenly, on the heels of the | war, milady's mood changed, and with | it her mode. It does little good to delve | into the deeper causes for the change at this time. It is enough to know that unexpectedly and out of a quite clear sky bobbed hair became first en regle, and, before long, indispensable. Who does not remember the lengthy and eru- dite discussions of the early bob days’> Manufacturers of hairpins and similar hirsutic adornments wrote reams and reams to prove that the Lorelei ideal could never die. And all, of course, to no avail. Irrepressible youth had just | started its rampage, and the tides of what has since become kriown as mod- ernism in fashions were not to be dammed. With the passing of a decade, however, the irrepressibles have lost some of their early ardor, and sensa- tionalism is no longer the ruling motif of fashion. In the new, calm and in- i e s S . 0 A i i finitely more critical order of the mode\} what shall happen to the bobbad coif~ fure? There has been a steady and unmis- takable, increase in the number of longer coiffure The wearing of wigs for evenings, a popular Paris practice just now, is an earnest indication pf this trend. But here is the curious fact in this revival of gracefully longer locks. The matrons, to whom you would ordinarily look for such a move, are not the prime factors in the renaissance. In fact, they are the most bitter opponents of any such coiffure change. It is youth which has had the courage to feminize the hair arrangement, just as it was youth that 10 years earlier had the bravery to clip its piquant curls. Of course, it is a different generation of debutantes and subdebutantes who are inaugurating the anti-bob crusade—it is ever the habit D. C.' FEBRUARY 3, AT LEFT: TWO PATOU EVE- NING GOWNS WHICH APPEAR- D AT A PARIS DANCE. THAT - AT THE LEFT, WORN BY PRIN- CESS CITO, IS DEVELOPED IN WHITE SATIN WITH A SQUARE NECKLINE AND NO TRIMMING. THE SECOND MODEL DEPICTS A GOWN OF GOLD LAME, WHICH WAS WORN BY THE COMTESSE ANDRE DE ROBI- LANT, AT RIGHT: COAT OF MOSS GREEN VELVETEEN, TRIMMED WITH SUMMER ERMINE. ‘Which brings the current coiffure sit- uation to simply this—longer hair is smart for the youth and both brave and smart for the matron. The extent of its revival depends on the temper of the of yesterday’s youth to become cautious. ‘ rising generation of fashionables, and 1929—-PART 3.° although it will never crowd the prac- tical and curt bob into obscurity, it is highly probable that its numbers will increase threefold during the present year. The effect of this expected increase | credited with having once been in | worn by—say, the would be to make the coiffure a neutral | and no longer significant factor in the | modernistic fashion cycle. 'One Paris Jewel Shop | Holds Key to Society PARIS. THE little Paris shop where—so they say—one may buy or sell social prominence, is said to be in danger. Social-climbing Americans and Russian aristocrats are up in arms against the evil hand that is putting their future in hazard by giving too much publicity to the little shopkeeper who makes their activities possible. Whether they will keep his dealings a secret for many months more is a question. The complex system of buying one’s | way into the social program of the gay French capital is said by many to be based largely on the traffic between this dealer and his clientele. He deals in jewels —rare stones only — diamonds, rubies, emeralds, pearls. Some of the finest pieces of jewelry in the world are his keeping. This is neither a luxurious pawnshop nor is it a “fence” for stolen jewels. The clients are among the socially im- portant and the wealthy of the world. The list of those passing through his doors would read like some cosmopolitan bluebook of the rich, the ambitious and the nobly born. He probably knows about the private affairs, the personal tastes and the financial habits of every person of importance in Paris. His entire commerce is laid upon the foundation fact that many of those peo- | ple who are too proud to accept a gift of money will gladly welcome something else—jewels. Thus it is that for his fine rubles and emeralds, a duke, living on an impoverished estate, or a countess, making her meals of bread and cheese in the mansion that she cannot give up and can no longer afford to keep up— will consent to be the guest of some | wealthy foreigner who needs important 12 Dominate Fashions in Paris of bracelets and necklaces of preclous stones. But above these, for two, three and four flights, that may be passed in a rococo gilt and mahogany lift, are literally dozens of immense salons—e veritable museum of the jewelry of many ages. Practically the whole space of one entire floor is like & huge laboratory, fllledhwi'.h com] mpumud l':n- croscopes and photographic apparatus where white-coated chemists work to test a doubtful pearl or an unauthenti- cal ruby. In contrast to either of these shops is the studio where young craftsmen, students of sculpture and painting, be- gin their work as designers of jewelry. It is quite like any other Paris artist’s atelier, save that dozens of artists, in smocks and caps, work in one room to- gether, poring over drawing boards and tables of clay. Here they conceive the plans that are worked out in metals and precious stones, in adjoining studios. Many of these young men and women are de- signers, metal workers and jewel cut- ters all in one, and, single-handed, pro- duce an original piece of jewelry that is sold in their own studio shop, or sent to manufacturers to be copled thr‘!_)t\‘xghgut lztx?i: world. e des| g of jewelry plays an important role in the Paris p‘vryl'd of fashion making. Four times a year the important Paris couturiers close their doors in secrecy, in preparation for the launching of ‘their collection of new styles. Hand in hand with them is the jewelry designer, and it is he who chooses the colors and who arranges the combinations that are introduced with the new season. As often as not the jeweler is the per- son consulted before the actual welfing and dyeing of fabrics are begun. The Jjeweler knows, probably better than his ::zsél;e::iuj;mk whlnlc c‘nlom and what ook wel o L with certain stones That this collaboration has do; toward good taste in dress is u‘: :‘l;‘tc; names on his dinner lists. 1t is he, who, the following morning, as previously arranged, buys back the jewels. From his friends he will buy necklaces and jeweled cigarette cases that have been purchased elsewhere. He will even find a rich client who might take a fancy to a bracelet that has been Princess X. It is he, also, who will give discreet advice to the newcomer in Paris, who is looking for ‘“friends” whose. names | bear some weight in society conversa- | tion. It is he who counsels him, early in his program, to look well to his jew- els, for they are the only currency he may use. It may be that this shop is too well known. But whether or not this shop, Parisians say, there will always be some place in Paris where nobility with empty purse may come bearing gifts they have just received from some new lord of wealth. Paris is the city of jew- els, and all Parisians, rich and power- less alike, are ever faithful to their love for diamonds. ‘There are many other jewel shops in Paris as interesting as this ciscreet little salon just back of the Ritz. There is, for example, the elaborate estab- lishment with a Place Vendome address, that has the property of an old French family for six generations. For the casual passer-by, there are only the three small salesrooms on the street floor—very much like any other shop, with cases filled with rows and rows New Ways to BY ALIDA VREELAND. Commendation and criticism have both been unstintingly directed toward the modern manner of interior decora- tion. -On its treatment of curiains, ver, most critics agree in its fayor. For, with the same daring disregard for the past which has been one of the | dominant forces in its furniture move- ments, it has lkewise launched its attack on traditipnal methods of cur- taining, not only in materials and color, but in the form of drapery. Oddly enough, where, in furniture, the tendency has freguently been .to- ward angularity and hardness of line, further accented with upholstery fab- Tics often inclined to tweeds, leathers or other hard-finished materials, in curtains the movement is toward curves. Consequently materials selected by the modernists for curtains and draperies a’r: more and more being drawn from most luxurious of dress fabrics. In fact, the modern dressing of a window is apt to bring with it all the complications attendant on the fitting qf a dress if one is planning to gaze outdoors through a curtain mist of sev- eral pastel shades of chiffon. For a bedroom dome in the modernis- tic manner a most charming curtain Scheme was developed in_ velvet and georgette crepe. Velvet hangings in back of the bed, and at each side of wo French windows on either side of e bed were suspended from a very dark green molding. Blending into the velvet tone and the molding above was the deep green tier of the valance and the inside section of the lower curtain. To soften the green a second tier and curtain width of blege georgette was used, while a_third thickness was of pale green. By pulling the side vel- vet hangings to keep out the daylight, | one had a solid background of velvet drapery. A somewhat similar handling of blending shades was noted in another full-length boudoir window. Three varying lengths of chiffon suspended from the top melted from heige into apricot and were hung against the glass, the lowest and deepest tone touching the floor. For pull ourtains a heavy biege satin was chosen. Satin was sim- ilarly used in another bedroom plan, this time in fvory white at one side of the window over a glass curtain of figured voile. An informal window derives a formal touch by the use of full-length draper- les. One such window, which is in a bedroom, has & softly gathered glass curtain of pale yellow georgette, while on either side are jade green curtains of crepe de chine, the same material which was used for the bedspreads. ‘This manner of draping is an ideal way to attain a dignified effect when a window of this type has been introduced into a living room or hall, providing, s it does in this case, a delightful set- ting for a table. The circular window is, of course, the product of the modern designer, and few of us are at present faced with the problem of curtaining one. Nevertheless it is interesting to see what a pleasing and graceful compo- sition of folds and gathers a circular window can inspire. In one treatment of this problem, light filters through & green silk gauze, while amber taffeta fo;ms the framing panels at either eide. Three different fabrics may some- times enter into the curtain scheme, this arrangement ng especially suit- able for dining or living rooms. A modernistic weave of artificial silk dam- ask in petunia and sllver shades is looped across the top and falls in straight lines at one side. An inter- mediate panel of silver cloth is next introdused and blends into a generously shirred glass curtain of cream net. Another handsome curtain group, using three materials with color effect as its prime motif, vas one of the chief innovations in a modern music room having a single window of great ex- panse and height. Against the glass hung coarsely meshed silver filet lace. On either side were gorgeous taffeta curtains of Chi- nese red. Over these toward the middle of the window, and effecting a startling contrast, were posed two long panels Hang Curtains pattern were simply hung against the small panes, while rich metdllic brocade short drapes were used at the sides. Of geometrical inspiration was a cream madras curtain used for the tall French windows of a dining room pan- eled in red and silver. Heavy red vel- vet pull curtains effected a rich in- terior ensemble. Perhaps the feature of these new ways and means with curtains that wilt count most with the homemaker today lies in the fact that they can be quite freely introduced into homes furnished in traditional fashion. As a matter of fact, the use of fab- rics hitherto looked upon as unsuited for window draperies, has already found its way into a great many American homes. Particularly have silks and velvets in gay designs and more brilliantly col- orful tones come into their own with the dawn of a new day in curtaining. There seems to be no limit to the ahoioe of materials to grace our win- lows. Without realizing it, many homes will doubtless first begin to fall under the compelling influence of modemism by the soft and misty beauty of its curtain fabries. THE DAILY HOROSCOPE Monday, February 4. Benefic aspects will rule tomorrow, according to astrology, which reads in the horoscope much of promise, All who have places in the sun should benefit and the day seems to promise much to heads of big business, bankers, leading lawyers and professional men of all classes. It is believed to be an auspicious rule under which to seek political prefer- ment or to ask for high place. Appoint- ments of importance are supposed to be subject to the best direction while this configuration continues. Startling revelations of municipal cor. ruption are foretold at this time when reforms will be pushed in many quar- TS, While many will be made glad by ap- pointment to public office, the legal fraternity may sustain disappointment, it is foretold. Again the seers declare that business genius will outrank professional attain- ment in the estimation of the public, for genius will be manifest in executive ability that assures increase of wealth. The visit to the solar system of an orb from space is held to promise ex- traordinary crises on the earth. A mighty time of testing to the peo- ple of our planet is foretold Ry astrol- ogers who declare that the travail of a new birth is upon the peoples of the world. Mars and Saturn, ruling the earth at the time of the Winter solstice, are held partly responsible for evil forces that will encourage corruption and greed, as- trologers declare. ‘Terrific winds will continue as the | month advances, it is forecast, and the coasts of France, Portugal and Spain may suffer severely. Jupiter strongly favors financial power at this time when all the banks of the United States should benefit tremen- dously. Persons whose birth date it is have i the augury of a year of great profit i for all who are employed as well as for heads of business. Harmony with associate$ and much pleasure through friends are indicated. Children born on that day probably will have brilliant minds that quickly attain knowledge. The subjects of this sign win success early in life and make many friends. They should beware of speculation and heavy losses in middle life. Both boys and girls should marry happily. Cornelius Ambrosius Logan, early American dramatist, was born on this | date, 1806. James G. Birney, statesman, 1792, was another who claimed this as a birthday. of deep sapphire velvet Not quite so spectacular was the mod- ernistic suggestion for curtaining a dining room casement. Silk madras of ~“bonservative” modernistic (Copyright, 1929.) Aol 8ix Southeastern conferences of the Congregational Church met last week at Atlanta & Care Keeps Frocks Looking Their Best It is not just the care you take of your clothes when you wear them—but the care you take of them when you do not wear them that keeps them looking attractive. Realizing this you have doubtless provided a closet where your frocks may hang on hangers on a cross pole or rod and not on.hooks where they come in contact with the walls of the closet. When possible a frock or suit should be aired a little before it is hung away and some women have a clothes treg where they hang clothes for this pur- pose. If you take off a party frock it is a good plan to put it on a hanger right side out and leave it on the hang- er for the night. The next morning you should carefully turn the frock wrong side out, put it back on & hanger and hang it away in your closet, attending to any possible rips or wrinkles so that it will be ready for the next wear- g)veralls of some light, washable ma- terial that completely cover a frock are well worth while, especially for light frocks. For the frock that is bouffant or frilly and may not conveniently be turned inside out such a cover is very desirable. If you do not find time to make any of these overalls and do not want to buy any ready made you may use a strip of cheesecloth or other inex- pensive light cotton material twice the length of the frock. Simply make a perforation in the center through which to slip the wire hook of the hanger and let the material hang freely over the frock. Suits and street frocks should always be brushed before they are put away. A rather soft, fine clothes brush is best for this purpose. Gigot de Mouton Brise Is Good IT sounds very ambitious, doesn't it? But it really is very simple to pre- pare and the next time you want a Teally bang-up dish. for dinner try it. To begin with you will want a leg of mutton. Ask the butcher to bone it for you, so don’t wait until the Satur- day rush is on, but order it when he has time to spend to remove the bone carefully. The meat should be rolled after it is boned. Be sure to get the bone as it will be excellent for making soup. P%ur and a half hours before you want to serve it, put a tablespoon of butter in a lerge frying pan. Melt the | butter and when gquite hot put the lamb in the pan and let it brown nicely all over. Turn the meat over and over so that it is evenly browned on all sides without being burned. Now put the meat in a kettle. Pour a cup of water into the pan to take up the juice, and turn it into the kettle. Add "another cup of hot water, with a sprig of parsley, a small bayleaf and two carrots scraped and sliced, also salt and a dash of pepper. Cover the kettle closely and let the meat simmer for four hours. Add a very little water if need be, but at no time have more than a pint or two cups of water in the kettle. The im- portant thing is to have a low, even heat and to have the cover of the kettle fit closely. When ready to serve put the leg of | lamb on a platter and put the carrots | around it. If you like a good deal of | gravy you might simmer the bones to make additional stock for the gravy. Crepe: de Chine Is Accepted Material Crepe de chine is the accepted ma- terial for lingerie of all sorts nowadays. That is, if one does not specify that some other material is used then one assumes that it was crepe de chine. Satin crepe is sometimes preferred for bloomers and sometimes even for night- gowns. Ninon, which is difficult to buy by the yard in this country, is used for some of the finest of French lingerie. Triple voile, chiffon and georgette are still used when extreme sheerness is desired. In some recent importations from France the combination of crepe satin and brocade satin in the same shade was seen. Taffeta makes its ap- pearance with little chance of ousting the softer, lighter materials from favor. Bandeau and very short bloom- Your Baby and Mine BY MYRTLE MEYER ELDRED. =N Every psychologist as well as every observant mother discovers very soon that a person does, without very much urging (or none at all), the thing he likes to do, and with a great deal of urging the thing which gives him little personal satisfaction. There are some tendencies which we instill into the child so early that they become automatic before he has any time to decide whether he is going to like them or not. Thus we put the tiny baby to bed at regular hours, we feed him on the dot and bathe him likewise. We take him out for an airing every day at the same hour so that shortly he wakes, eats and sleeps exactly on those hours. Mothers, as a rule, do not use this same procedure in instilling good toilet habits, and as a consequence these be- come a source of real friction during the child’s second year. Obviously we can not expect that if the child is going to pursue a certain line of habits during the first year almost over night he can understand that these habits have suddenly become bad. Toilet habits of the baby cause the mother no discom- fort, but these same habits in the runabout child come to be designated as “shameful and dirty,” both ideas which not only must be extremely con- fusing to the child but throw around these perfectly natural habits a dis- colored veil which they have no right to wear. We have always felt that instead of haranguing the child beginning an elaborate system of training after the second year, if we would start his proper toilet habits the first or second month of his life we would have no troubles at all the second year. In fact, this is far from being just a “feeling,” for many mothers “have carried out this training from the sixth week to make its desirability an absolute fact. Mothers have a tendency to put off New Lingerie In Many Lingerie of Lido blue is favored hy fashion, but newer and less usual and r:a!ly smarter is lingerie of turquoise blue. Nowadays the ‘“normal color” for lingerie of all sorts is fiésh, just as it once was white. Now white lingerie has an air of distinction. It has been chosen in crepe de chine, crepe satin or chiffon for wear with the all-white gowns which are already bicding so suc- cessfully for favor at the Southern resorts. Orchid, peach, Nile green, eggshell, coral, tea rose, maize—with white, Lido and turquoise blue, and flesh—are the colors most frequently spoken of when smart new lingerie is under discussion. For wear with the black evening gown there are dainty pleces of black georgette, chiffon or Ninon, trimmed with black, ecru or white lace, With the increased interest in nat- ural silk tones for sportswear there will doubtless be an increased interest in pongee and rajah lingerie. The shops already show little garments of these materials all of the simple tailored type—never, of course, trimmed with lace. Lace in deep ecru is used in combina- on and crepe de chine in er sets of printed taffeta appeal to the young shopper, 2 tion aith ch all the accepted lingerie tones, Some- tmes the ecru is so geep as to be justly { such training because changing diapers for babies is a traditional burden which most mothers never think of shaking off. With all the new attitudes that mothers are assuming, it would be splen- did if they assumed this one with the recognition that it is no more trouble to train a baby to have regularity in these habits than it is to be a slave to diapers for eighteen months of the child’s life. All mothers have a way of temns set in habits of thought too, and i they go about solidifying a habit in a certain way, they find it hard to adapt themselves to a different way. We find lots of children between the ages of about sixteen months and three or four years who suddenly develop a stubborn streak about going to the toilet. They may have been trained perfectly up to this time and then, without warning, cry when urged or taken to the toilet, and later make nuisances of themselves by wetting or soiling. Most mothers meet this situation by renewed severity and awful threats of what will happen “if you do that again,” or by long wearisome arguments about how no one will like you, and aren't you ashamed to be such a dirty child, until no doubt the child feels quite covered with scornful epithets. It seems more feasible to try to renew the child’s interest in a ceremony which _has become boresome. Buy & small bright colored jar that is to be- long to the child, or, if she has been used to that, introduce her to a regula- tion toilet seat. It behooves the mother to work out her own individual problem by ingenuity and a regard for the fact that the child needs some change. The more matter-of-fact we are about this ceremony of going to the toilet, the less we embellish it with dramatics; and the more willing we are to subtly try to make it more interesting, the more successful we shall be in continu- ing the habits we are anxious to solidify. Is Made Lovely Colors called cholocate. As a departure from these tones which have become very generally accepted, one or two of the important lingerie makers are using a deep grayish beige for lace which im- press;tes one on sight as being decidedly smart. One or two sets in which cream-col- ored lace appears with pastel shades are surprisingly attractive. Having finally launched the vogue for laces of deeper contrasting tones, the smartest of French lingerie makers have come forth with the idea of using laces dyed precisely to match the little piece of material with which they are combined. There is a subtle note of good taste about these montone, lace- trimmed nightgowns and combinations. Never before has lace been used so lavishly on lingerie. Many of the love- liest pleces are really made of lace with Just a patch of chiffon or georgette here and there to add a touch of color. Some women choose these predomi- nantly lace garments for evening wear only. There are little gzmenu of crepe de chine and fine embroidery that are scarcely less dainty than those of fine lace. Point de Beauvals and needle- int embroidery appear on some of em. serts and edgings of fine net make their perel appeal. New-Old Rug Is Made of Petals An interest in old-fashioned handi- crafts has been revived and, instead of doing the fine sort of fancy work that was the fashion in mid-Victorian days, up-to-date young women are going back for inspiration to earlier days when women didn't have time to spare for non-essentials, but used their leisure moments to make floor mats, quilts and bedspreads instead of tidies and sense- less doilies. One great advantage of these earlier models is that they were done by wom- en, who if they worked after dark worked by the light of a candle or per- haps a tallow dip: The work was ef- fective, but fairly coarse. They used heavy thread and needles with large eyes, and they worked on materials that were substantial enough not to be spoiled by hands that were acquainted with hard work. Present-day fingers may be smooth and soft enough to manage the silk floss and fine needles dear to the hearts of the Victorian ladies, but the worker is too sensible to want to dull eyes by work that is needlessly fine. And so she doubtless turns with eagerness to the substantial sort of handicraft practiced by women a hundred and more years ago. One of the most interesting sort of floor coverings made by those stalwart women ‘was the door mats, made from tongue-shaped scraps of flannel and other woolen materials. Perhaps one has seen these rugs in some old farm- house, where traditions of needlework have been handed down for many gen- erations. Moles Have Long Been Cherished For centuries, it would seem, moles have been considered a real mark of beauty. The truth of the matter is, of course, that some people with moles are ravishingly lovely to look at, and some are as ugly as they can be. Wyatt, a poet and artist of the court of Henry VIII, says of Anne Boleyn, “Likewise there were said to be upon certain parts of her body small moles, incident to the clearest complexions.” Certain it is that Anne Boleyn had a lovely complexion and the courtiers of the time referred to her as “fresh and young.” Santa Teresa's three moles have come down in history and so far from being looked upon as & blemish on her beautiful face, they were considered a contribution to her beauty. The bi- ographer leaves nothing to our imagi- nation and tells us that “she had three moles on her left cheek which became her much—one below the bridge of the nose, another between her nose and mouth and a third below her mouth.” Balzac's famous Henriette, the Countess of Mortsauf, in “The Lily of the Valley,” was possessed of a mole— & very distracting mole it proved to be. When Felix, the first person of the book, | first sees the countess, he is a lonely lad at & ball, and apparently it is with ti been revi and | larity. 50 also has ell‘::flh hematluh;:ld.' In- m'u the countess’ very lovely shoulders that he first falls in love. As he is gazing at these shoulders, he tells us: “My eye rent the stuff of her dress, and I saw a mole that mark- ed the top of the pretty line between her shoulders, a speck lying on milk.” Purple Flowers to Come With Spring As Spring comes, it is quite probable that purple corsage flowers—violets and pansies, orchids and other flowers that don’t grow purple, but are painted so in their artificiality—will be much worn. ‘The now famillar bunch of violets with a red or pink rose in the center is one popular combination. Sometimes the violets are as big as the biggest = ll;h vlohu—cl;l even ’;:figm timu lolets seen through a m: ying glass. Sometimes the artificial violets are as small as the modest early blooms of that flower that one finds in Spring- time woods and roadsides. Orchids and pansies are worn for evening, three or four or five together for shoulder straps on frocks of velvet or chiffon. In velvet these flowers are so lovely that thzedeurve their popu- Soft and J and rich in color xture, they add a very becoming I note to % {rock with which_they’ are s of both parties. Women who previousl: offered their gowns and theE Je'elrg separately, and whose only solicitude for their jewels was to see that the clasps were safe, often combined colors and lines that were disast and decoration. i bl b Nowadays the dressmaker admonishes his client to wear certain jewels with a particular frock, and to wear them in such and such a manner; likewise, the purchaser of jewelry often is advised that a certain frock or a certain line of a frock will form a perfect background for tke jewel she has chosen. Paris women have taken an immedi- ate fancy to the special dresses that have been recently introduced, signed with the name of both couturler and Jeweler. Jeweled velvets, the fabrics that have a glistening surface and are dyed in exact jewel colors, are seen on smart women everywhere, complemented by jewels whose colors they simulate. A certain black dinner gown has be- come famous for its deep back decolle- tage that is entirely filled with ropes of pearls, while the front shows only a single choker strand. There is the beige satin gown that seems to have been merely wrapped about the wearer, with & big bow pulled through a great hoop. of diamonds on one hip. There is the sapphire blue bridge ., formal in line, that always is worn with a choker necklace, as savage in inspiration as one could imagine—a flat slave ring of plati- num, dotted with large diamonds and sapphires. Once Again—the Baby. Mothers of bables have to cook for the babies’ fathers as well as the in- fants themselves. It is a bit hard if everything has to be made separately, S0 why not arrange your own meals in such a way as to make use of the cook- ing you must do for the very important little feller? Let's say the baby is over a year old, so that he gets some yegetables and a few light desserts. On the day that he has peas for his dinner, have peas for yours. You may serve them for him with a little butter, and yourself as well. Or you might cream yours or serve them with chopped mushrooms. If the baby has lima beans, have succotash or lima beans baked with a little corn syrup poured over them, or buttered or creamed. When the baby has spinach and caulifiower, do you have the same. And if there comes a day when you find that you have small amounts of several vegetables that have accumu- lated, have a vegetable plate, adding a poached, baked or scrambled egg. If the baby must have baked potato, }nve baked potato yourself. It's:good for you. ‘Then there's the matter of desserts. If you've made apple sauce for the baby, have an apple sauce pie for your- selves. Into a baked ple shell pour enough thick, strained, seasoned ‘and sweetened sauce to fill the shell. Top with a fluffy meringue just before serv- ing and set in a hot oven to brown the meringue. Or make an apple sauce cake, using one egg, one-half cup sugar, one-half cup apple sauce, one teaspoon vanilla, one-fourth teaspoon nutmeg, one-half teaspoon soda, one teaspoon baking powder, pinch salt, one-fourth cup shortening and one cup flour. Or make a plain white cake, or a High Heels ‘This is no symposium on the physical effects of the varying heel heights of the modern shoe. Much has already been said on that subject, perhaps too much—but for the most part women still continue to heed only the dictates of fashion. For a change, consider this feature of dress from the beauty angle. It may, perhaps, seem more worthy of' attention. Think of it from the view- point of that dealer in feminine grace and beauty—the theatrical producer, Letting pass the self-consciousness that would almost swamp the inex- perienced candidate for a place on the stage, just what sort of exhibition would you give of yourself when you responded to the casting director’s first command, which invariably is “Walk.” Now, walking is an every day action which has long been regarded by you as easy and natural, but now with your attention suddenly riveted upon it, how do you walk? Are you long limbed? Do you find your stride interrupted by the prema- ture landing of your heel? If so, the heel of your shoe is too high. Perhaps you “flap.” Which means that your heel hits the floor first, and the sole is left to follow with a flap like a duck’s. If such be the case, you may be sure that the heel of your shoe is too low for your kind of step. Suppose, now, that- instead of com- mitting the aforesaid sins, you find yourself, in order to avoid scuffling your heel og the ground, “planting” heel, sole and toe simultaneously. Your heel is too high. A trifling eighth of an inch less in its height will correct this fault in your gait. Bear in mind, however, that the proper time to adjust the height of the heel to meet your individual require- ments is when you are purchasing the shoe. Its carefully, correctly and beau- titully proportioned lines, as well as the design of the shoe, will be ruined by added or subtracted lifts. ‘When doing your buying, follow the command of the theatrical director and walk. Do not just stand in front of the bootery mirror, trying to decide whether the shoe makes your foot look a sixteenth of an inch longer or shorter. This is a matter of no importance as plain yellow cake and put it together with apple sauce, sweetened. You may top it with a thin, plain or use merely a coating of powdered sugar. This is an easy way of dressing un the cake and one that is popular with most husbands. Or make turnovers of rich ple dough, cutting it into squares, putting a couple of :Exmfula of sweetened sauce on and folding it over, pinching the edges to- gether and baking in a quick oven. On the baby’s prune pulp day, make prune whip, day, set his a bit of canned or fresh fruit to yours. You might serve it with a thin custard sauce. Add fruit or chmn]‘nsm sauce to r cooking time for the baby's dessert. A man must have a pie or a pudding now and then. But you can do it often enough to lessen your work con- siderably. If you cook the baby's cereal the evening before, you have your own breakfast cereal ready, merely by add- ing to the quantity. As the youngster grows older it be- comes increasingly possible to save valuable hours by cooking some of the family food while preparing the some- what specialized diet of the diminutive lord of the manor. All too few housewives with bables overlook this short-cut to culinary duties that are a bit more difficult to perform when so great a part of every day is taken up in attending to a baby's multiple wants. A little ingenuity goes a long way in the shving of time, labor and temper. and Beauty. height for a heel, since ways of walking are as individual as handwriting. Study your own needs and so avoid all ap- pearance of ungainliness. All this is in reference to the shoes you wear most of the time—the ones that carry you walking, shopping or around the house—in short, for general wear over smooth surfaces, ‘The golf links and the ballroom make different demands on your footgear, but whatever the requirements, remember that grace always lies in correct bal- ance. The woman endowed with beautiful features may detract attention from her facial beauty by an un; ful carriage. And women less hapj invested as to beauty of face may appear more charming than their less pl sisters because of their manner ‘of walking and standing. ‘The first essential of proper carriage is an easy, graceful walk, and this can be managed only when the footwear is correctly proportioned and comfort- able. Heel height has everything to do with comfort. Realize the necessity for care in se- lecting the proper heel—and watch your step. Pajama Suits Dot Southern Beaches At the Southern resorts, which are crowded this time of year with women who have money and leisure to go to them, pajama suits are much worn over bathing suits. One specially smart ensemble of this kind consists of a brightly figured swim- ming suit of jersey, with wide-legged Pmcoiotel Jersey. Wil tianing -color TSey, g‘nd' on coat and trousers of the fig- ured material. A floppy, wide-brimmed hat of soft felt ‘the color of the coat has a trimming band of the fabric. The hat is wide brimmed as hats go nowadays. Really, of " course, le- brimmed hats are not worn now. But it has been found that a soft brim that extends only a couple of inches, if worn compared to whether your knee and hip joint are relaxed so that you may feel balanced and secure, as you should, if you expect to move beautifully and gracefully when you s o It is impossible to & standard down over the head, will give a wel- come and restful shade to the eyes. SRS L ‘There are 5 Catholic Senators and 35 Catholic Representatives in the present Congress,