Evening Star Newspaper, September 12, 1926, Page 87

\ ' RY MARY MARSHALL. HE street costume is cast for a most important role in the Autumn wardrobe. Now If ever the American woman likes to go on foot. After & Wwummer spent out of town sne finds almost childish pleasure in strolling about the shopping section, buying letsurely, looking in the shop windows, stoppipg here & luncheon and there for tea. She is even per- fuaded to take walks in the eity marks—though she wouldn't dream of doing =0 in Summer or Winter. The more formal sort of afternoon parties are usually held later in the Autumn. The season has not yet bhegun for the bridge luncheon and half-past-two bridge party that pro- vide recreation and an opportunity to display afternoon finery to in- numerable American women later in the vear. If vou do play bridge at this time of the season It i= a casual more informal occasfon when smart sireet wear ik most appropriate, The selection of an Autumn ward robe is always more satisfactory fir this countr at least in mos’ mections here—than the choosing o Spring cloth So frequently ow Spring I« a Spring in name only “Winter lingering chills the lap of May™ and after that the thermom- eter rises to 90 in the shade. You lay aside vour fur coat one day and find that you can be comfortable only in clothes of Summery thinness the next. And every season vou are amazed to see how few davs there are in Spring when Spring clothes are really suitable. But we dn have real Autumns—the finest that be found anywhere in the warld. There are weeks and weeks when Autumn clothes are really comfort- able and appropriate. The woolen =ireet frock. the coat frock. the light- weight woal suft and the hetween measons coat are all timely now— though vou either shivered or swel tered in such things in the more temperamental days of Spring. Thers is another pleasing pros- pect in buring clothes for Antumn, Many of them are wearable under a Winter coat even after Autumn days have passed. Spring clothes, on the other‘hand, have no such advantage. Tou cannot do anything to make them cool enough for Summer. If ¥ou must he economical, it is A good plan to buy vour Autumn clothes Wwith thix idea In view. The street frock or coat frock, which you buy now with the idea of wearing with a fur collar and no wrap. can he worn heneath a fur or cloth coat right through the Winter. The me- dium-weight Autumn suit may be worn under a wool sport coat in Winter or it may be made quite warm by wearing it with a velvet blouse or jumper heneath the jacket There was a time when the two plece sult and separate hlouse was more widely worn In America than in France. French women had more readily adopted the mode of the meparate one-piece frock. They wore it with fur scarf on warmer days and with cape or coat as the davs became cooler. Miss America clung to her two-plece auit. The girl who worked fn an offce considered the washahle blouse and suit skirt as an Indls pensable sort of work-a-day uniform. It was the invariable sport costume here: and there were hosts of well dressed American women who felt that they were never so well and smartly dressed for the street in warm weat or cold as when wear- ing the two-piece suit. Tt seemed then to be practically suited to the Ameri- can temperament and conditinns. We clung tenacionsly to the idea of having something washable next to our arms and nec A cloth or «ilk frock that was sent to the clean ers only occasionally seemed all very well for the French women. Our warmer Summer climate and extreme fastidiousness explained to us then our prolonged devotion to the wash- able blouse. Now it is the French woman favors the two-plece suit and sepa rate blouse. Having finally adopted the mode for one-piece frocks we are unwilling to wear anvthing else. Girls who work In offices consider the simple little one-piece frock of silk or cloth as the only smart, convenient type of costume for working hour: Fvery American who has recent a who can | THE SUNDAY STAR,.WASHINGTON, D. C., SEPTEMBER 12, . 1926—PART 5. THIS WINE-RED CREPE FROCK SHOWS THE NEW DOLMAN SLEEVE THAT HAS ALREADY BEEN RECEIVED WITH GREAT ENTHUSI- ASM BY THE AMERICAN. WOMAN, WHO FINDS IT VERY BECOMING. THE COSTUME 1S TRIMMED WITH GOLD EMBROIDERY AT THE SLEEVES AND COLLAR. 7 by French women are all of the en-| ked ahout. semble tvpe, with a blouse made to go with the skirt and jacket. The separate washable silk blouse is much in evidence. Separate knitted or crochetted jumper blouses are alsa It is obvious already that the frock | that is much t | strong appeal to American armhole that is nevertheless quite frequently seen as th ompaniment | snug around the arm below the elbow. | The name of Martial et Armand as | of the two-plece suit. It s always Interesting to see which | well as that of Vionnet has been as sociated with this already one of the French fashions brought | on. out in late Summer will make the |fash Strongest appeal In this country,| It Is especially appropriate in line | fortable. ~Older women as a Thosm e hat: mrvive here are mot al.|for the street frock or coat frock.|thing look better _in fact not often—those that | It is cut in such a way that, in spite | line, softened with scarf of silk without a coat. the Autumn froc| collars that £ b6 Many made worn of with are but not high enough to be heen in Paris realizes how much more | generally worn suite are than here . Don't imagine that the suits worn §oung People’ (Continued from Sixth Page) year it totaled 315.141. In addition, the circulation for the children was a total of 620494, healdes 36,468 in the fndustrial department. For the three branches. including work with high mchools, depesit stations and graded schools, thes total was volumes. The Public Library now owns more | midst than 300,000 hooks in all, with those | luxuriant with vichly colored flowers |ana In the branch departments. Twen ansistanta are employed in the central adult circulation department, or 30 it we count the pages. As more are occupled in the people’s department. the branch divi alons, and elsewhere in the librar work. And now, hefore leaving the library, let us anjoy another view of the In dian Temple. exhibited on the second floor. The Ta] Muhal. at Agra. India in conceded by travelers to h moat _beautiful temple in the world, and this was the architect’s inspira tion. as studied during visits in Indla. where he employed a Winter in sketching. Charles Mason Remey is a son of Rear Admnal Remey and a former resident of Washington. He was a student at George Washington Uni veraity, or Columbian College. as it was known then. Afterward he at. tended Cornell. and began there his atudy in art and architecture, which he continued in Patis at the Ecole des Beaux Arts, under the mather cele. hrated architect and teacher, M lane, who designed the Grnd Palais de Champs Elvaees He visited India Auring a Journey around the world For several years Mr. Remey war as aistant professor of architecture at George Washington University. As a student of both religlon and architecture. Mr. Remey tells us that architectural interest has been Iargely centered in temples and shrines for worship, while his religious thougnt has sought to expreas ftself in terms of architecturs. in conceiv irg descns for religions edifices in France | 1,298,405 | | many | with its my young | rerfor, the | i i ' {landscape treatment Deg- | | tions This has led him to make a number of | compositions for temples and shrines done in the Indian style of architec ture. The model shown in the Public Library is to he erected in the East. The Taj Mahal, near Agra. Indla, was built in the seventeenth century., and has heen calied the achlevement of Mohammedan art. It 1a spoken of as a mausoleum of white marble, costing over $9.000,000. “The finest and most expensive ex amples of the architecture of the Moslem period in India.” Mr. Remey ohserves, “are found in and about Delhi, which was the capital of the Moguls, and in the city of Agra and fre vielnity. The world-famous Taj Mahal was bullt by the Mogul Km peror Shah Jehan during the middle of the sevententh century as the mausoleum of his favorite wife supreme It i= without doubt the hest known and | separate a peopie’s art from their most admirad building of that epoch. | spiritual ideals. wurvive in France. It is thus that {of its bagzng lines heneath the arm, |vet or fur, while only the there is always a manifest difference between fashions here and in France —even though they bhoth take spiration from the same source. | really high collars that le |a few of the Autumn frocks. I more ths motion | The bolero is another Autumn in- | | associated with the name of Viennet This bo- | with dolman type of sleeve has made |lero Is longer than .the one we have women. | heen having, and it is flatter also. | This is the frock with the very deep |adapts itself well to the Autumn frock s are high popular | enough to make a scarf unnecessary. uncom- nsual in the lower neck vel- women lit does not prevent perfectly free.arm | with slender necks should attempt the are seen on It takes | n vouth and a slender neck |c BLACK CREPE SATIN FASH. IONS THE COAT_FROCK AT THE LEFT. WHICH ACHIEVES DISTINCTION BY MEANS OF THE WHITE EPE_DE CHINE COLLAR D) WHITE BUTTONS NEXT ‘TO THIS IS ONE OF THE NEW AUTUMN SUITS— OF GRAY TWEED WITH A FUR COLLAR. THEN COMES A STRIKINC TUME CONSISTING OF A DARK GREEN TWEED JACKET WITH A VERY SHORT PLEATED PLAID WOOL SKIRT AND AT THE EXTREME AVED FROM BEING ent 1 Chnsi-v TOO SEDATE BY A SILK VEST OF 'RIGHT A COAT BRIGHT ORANGE. It The proof of few fashions is In the wearing. Dear to the hearts of most jean women is the jabot. and, though not especially emphasized in the showrooms of the great Paris dress- makers this Autumn. there is some. thing undeniably smart about the new Jahot frocks seen here. always takes pains to study tes and dispositions of her American cus- \(flm'rs of whome she has many—is | mentioned in connection with one of bot frocks that have been n this side of the Atlantic. Amer- | ch[It is a one-piece frack of flat crepe |known as Chanel red. | with pleated skirt. long straight bod- fce and a wide jabot at the front of a lighter shade of crepe. Crepe satin and flat crepe and other rather heavy often used for the early Autumn frocks. But velvet is the fabric most used as |trend In the mode. It is nd as trimming for crepe and cloth {often composes the entire froc The wine reds are hy all means th important_colors this Autumn are rather indi riminately | It look: Black has| come into prominence-especial | when it is trimmed with old gold. | Blue fs frequently used, though navy | blue has hardly met with the favor | silk crepes are most|ihat was predicted for it earlier in the | these new thin |season. It is the brighter shades of | blue that sesm to hold greater ap-| who | 0ften spoken of as marking the new |jea): Then there are greens—though 'mode of ours is transitional | green i< always a cool color for Au-| | tumn_or Winier. | | Tt really seems as if the break in | tashions had begun. There have heen | certain significant changes recently. | as it at women were | FROCK 0™ ~ 7 *UN CLOTH willing to w- i cInthes east in a really different mold from those they have worn for more than a decade. So whatever you have planned or hought for Autumn. wear it now. Enjoy < while they are still for there is pretty geod believe that this Autumn These from enjoyahble reason to new thinzs look quite different those we wore in the Sy -and they will probably look. even more different from' those we shall want to wear in the pri s Room at Library, Reopening, ‘Has Interesting Exhibit | a copy of the i Hahal, it | <hares some of the fentures, especial- | Iv the gardens and decorations. “The Taj Mahal combines ele- nents of heauty of composition and setting.” Mr. Remey reminds us. “Built within and without of the pur- ent white Jaipur marble, Inlaid with jasper. lapls lazuli and other semi- 1 | precious stones and placed in the ’ A ; re | of Rickey : At Lakeview Academy there were | ) of a most heautiful gzarden |, ;o' aynual events which had stood | coach. and out in the traditions of the old prep school for a good many years. As a matter of fact, these two events meant more to the majority of the student hody than did the educational advan tages of the school. From the open- ing of the Fall term until Thanksgiv- ing they were the main topics of con- versation, and from then on the were still talked about as prospect for the following vear. “The first of these events was the annual class rush, which consisted | only of a mighty battle hetween fresh- men and sophomores, juniors and se.| niors, for the rather questionable hon- | or of planting a flag atop the fazpole | in the center of the quadrangle. The second event wa Takeview's annual gridiron battle sgainst Blenton, a | FeEular val sche elzhhor rival school in the nelghhoring t0WR | - daunted in hie enthusiasm. The reason that the LLMENT 1. | Dale, foliage, intersected by foun- taine and waterways: with its in- viling exterior portals and loggias, essive and mystical In- it imposes upon the visitor a feeling of awe, mingled with jov and delight of massive strength of structure and of purity of ideal, that is quite bevond the power of words 1o describe.” Whether one knows architecture | or not, one can enjoy the model shown, although, of conrse. to the Orientalist it brings a special mes- sage. In the symbolism permeating its design. the mystical No. 9" fre- | quently repeated, the tapering mina- rete ahove the swelling domes and of the gardens. Beyond all .this, the Arabic inscrip- tions of the interior add their charm | to the mosaic walls Mr. Remey’s exhibition of Oriental designe at the Mayviower Hotel earlier in the se: “ted favor able attention. an those temple drawings study the execution as the large model now on view. The architect has published a rather re- markable hook on Oriental temple architecture in the Indian style. of eleven. the backfield men on age and looking even bigger 10 1o | the guiding spirit of the aspirants for a regular Lakeview's team. Raw a smooth the outcome of a relizgious awaken- ing. The Oriental temple model Remey will remain on vie: Public Library during September, special display on Wl art and allied will | inged on the same floor. The s cordially invited, by Mr. the | | with its p pole, spirits of planting »ud numerals, nst the newly the sophomores and will wish typified to in public Roth these events came to the minds Lakeview's foot ball “Uncle Joe" Thomas, the | trainer, as they stood on the side lines | of the sun-hurn feot ball field, watch. ing the monotonous scrimmage work of squads in practice, but more par- | ticularly watching the activities of one the scrub The object of their attention. lad not more than 15, but big for his in his foot ball harness, seemed to ba really other position material they were, he had whipped them into unning machine that was giving_serious opposition to the vet- erans of the regular téam. When he carried the ball he somehow managed to find holes through the line of the regulars; he seemed to be all over the once, tireless in his energy, coach and trainer thought of the last class rush {as they watched him was that it was | this same young man who, the 3 had performed the unheard-of the freshmen's flag 29, on the released the | brawn of the upper classmen he and | the other freshmen had battled for two long hours, until he, finding a hole in the human ring that surround. ed the pole, as he was now finding holes in the scrimmage line, had scampered up the staff and tied the flag to the very tip, where tradition ruled it must remain for the entire school year. For that feat he had heen unanimously elected class presi- dent and captain of the freshman foot hall team. And the display of the same type of athletic prowess was now causing the coach and the train- er to comment on him. “What do you think of him, Joe?" the coach asked “A likely stripling, coach—a lively ‘un. And a born foot ball man, if do say it.” Coach Dale nodded. Then, in a voice that carried across the gridiron like the thunderons boom of a September storm, he cried, “Hey, Manley, come here.” The boy ting _acros; another sc on as heard him, and came trot- the field, motioning for 1h on the side lines to take hix place. “The only thing I'm afraid of,” the coach said to “Uncle Joe" as Manley approached, “is that after being lucky in the glass rush, and making the regular feam. he might zet the hig head. There's nothing that ruins an athlete easier than that.” | e needn’t be fearing that with him.” the trainer answered. “Not If ar Bob Manley at Lakeview : By JACK GIHON I'm a-knowin’ lads. He's a square ‘un, all wool and a yard wide, or I'll jump in the creek.” Young Boh Manley saluted the twn men. He was breathing rather heavily from his exertions: it was a hot day. the he- ginning of the foot hall practice. and the work Coach Dale had put his men through had heen strenuous. His cheeks were flushéd with the glow of perfect health, even through the dirt of scrimmage work, and he moved with the supple energy that bespeaks the horn athlete, “Are you a good runner, Manle: Coach Dale asked. “Why—I—well, 1 guess sir.” answered the hoy. “Then I'm going to give you a chance to save yourself from a heat- ing,” said Dale. a serious expression on his face. “There’s the clubhouse— vou make for it at top speed, for in ! exactly five minutes I'm going to cal in the squad and tell 'em about yvou “What's the matter, sir?” stam- mered Bob. “Am I—have I done something wrong?" His _discomfiture was =0 that Dale could not restrain from breaking into a langh. ‘“Joe and T have decided to put you on the regular team,” he explainad, “and it's leustomary among the veterans to trotted up and I'm fair, evident himself beat up every new member, just as |a sort of initiation.” = Bol's mouth fell open, and then a huge grin spread over his face. “You mean I've made the team?” he ques- | | tioned. incredulously, “the regufar | |team?" Aud as the coach nodded, | he exclaimed a lone “Gosh! And | | then,” glancing over his shoulder at | the =quad on the field, he laughed alond. “Thank yeu, Mr. Dale. And you, too, Uncle Joe. Thank you a iot.” But I'd better he hurrying off. Those fellows are going to have to step some if they want to catch me.” He wheeled and was off. while the two men stood and smiled as he made with lightning speed toward the club- house. His retreat, however, ficant to the veterans on the field They knew Coach Dale of old, and they knew his practice of giving all new members on the team a chance of escaping initiation. As a matter of fact, there was not much of a chance for the newcomer. It was Inconceiv- able that he could get off his foot ball togs, take his shower, dress and es- cape from the building, all in the five minutes’ head start allowed by the coach. If he did, however, he es- caped initiation. was older players knew exactly what had happenad. Although the coach had not told them they could, they stopped scrimmage at once, and came running in a hody toward Dale, while the scrubs lnoked after them in amaze- ment and. wondered what kind of foot ball this could he. “Has Manley Architecture is the most imper- | sonal expression of the a =0 he telis us. “The architecture of a coun- | i= inclusive of the economic and | the ideals, aspir; motives of e GOOFEY MOVIES =ocial conditions, and religious a QEMEABER, LAST . WEEK,LOTTA KNOTT, PLAVED BV THELAA WITTY, PROMISED DAN D. LION (PuIL STRONGBRED) THAT SHE WOULD MARRY HIM people “W can he GOOFEY MOVIES PRESENT THE BAD BREAK BY FRED NEHER PART TWO are no longer developing what | alled a new ‘style We ara ! making adaptations of the old styles. According ‘to- the (heory of the.in- | fluence of religion in architecture, | we have As many styles as we have great religions. Every religlon has found its full and perfect develop- | \F HE PROVED WIS ment in the temple of the epoch. | “The Gothic, the Romanesque, the | . LOVE BV BUVING HEQ A Norman were styles created by the | 3 s TOOTHBRUSH Christian religion. They represent | the outward expression or sum total | of the 1deals of those respective ages. | The Egyptian, the Roman, the Greek, | the Assyrian, the Babylonian, the | Chinese—each style found its per- | fect development in the temple of | the period.’ | “Our vilization.” result’ of oud religion. Every greac ilization has been produced by a gious awakening. and each civil- | ization in turn has developed its! style of architecture. We cannot fifl!e VYEAQS HAVE COME AND GONE - DAN HAS MADE ENOUGH MONEY TO BUV THE TOOTH- BRUSH FOR LOTTA ANDO 1S AJow ON HIS WAV TO HeR Home * he said, “is the Every great style While Mr. Remey's model is not!of architecture in the past has been 1 Oan wus oy 4 panrer IN A STICK CANOY EACTORY AND COULD NEVER. BUV A TOOTH BRUSH LWIITH WIS SALARY- HE DECIDED YO LEAVE TOWN AND LOOK FOR SOMETHING BETTER — DAN IS JUST ARRINVING AT FLEAVUILL B~ Film Fun for Young Folks TT OONT TAvE DAN LONG TO BIND A JOB —ALRE ADY HE 1S HeAD PeA-SPLITTER IN A SOLIT PEA SOUP EACTORY—DAN GOES TO BED EVERY NIGHT AT DUSK SO AS AOT TO SPENID ANN MONEY. COMING SOON O THIS THEATRE OSCAR BUGE ‘DUMSO - CK A HILARIOUS RIP — SNORTING COMEDY WATCH FOR IT signi- | Seeing Boh racing off the field, the | made the team?” de-: manded Steve Waters, this year's ca tain, as the .squad Dale nodded, Whoapee,” ready, hoys! pummeling raced up. cried Waters, “gzet Get ready for some We'll see what kind of stuff this Manley is made of." He shook his fist in the air, In a good natured attempt at viciousness. “Wait a minute” said the ¢ fou know the rules. He gots five minmites' start."” Then, while the team itched and squirmed 1o he after their new member, Coach Dale stood with watch in hand. pretending rot to hear aceusations that he was spreading the time, that he was al lowing Manley more than five min utes—for it seemed so to these finely built, eclear-faced fellows who wa | to he after him “Get ready, now m raised, as he w hand of his watch ecircle around. * y And they were gone —the 11 of them, while others who had heen on the sidelines on the opposite side of the fleld went trailing after. It hegan to look bad for young Bobh Manley. | Yet a good many boys would have taken the bheating in store for him, and a lot more punishment, to get his reward On the heels of each other, the squad pushed through the door of the dressing room, shouting with glee for Bob Manley to show himself. But in- side they stopned, blank ex on their faces. “He's gone, mured some one. {1t seemed so, for the dressing reom ite walls flanked with lockers, w hare but for the long, low benches on which the athietes sat to dress “Mayhe he's in the shewer room suggested another, and they trooped in there, but that room, ton, was de merted Nor was Boh Manley found anywhere else in the little building although the squad searched thor oughly Disconsolate that their bird had escaped, they returned tn the | iocker room, where they hegan throw ing off their uniforms for the coolinz bracing effect of the showers. Snd denly Steve Waters spoke “It's a funny thing. fellows, out I've just seen a sight that I wouldn't believe possible.” “What's that?" asked “Runt” Davis, the ¥ center of the team “Why, I never thought these benches of ours would be able to move. Look there,” and he pointed 1o one of the long henches that surely had moved from its position in front of the lockers to a point near the [ door. | Al of them looked, and, as they did. the bench took impetus and siid | hurriedly to the door. “Runt” Davis lunged ,toward it and stopped fit. Lifting Tt up, he disclosed beneath it, ving on the floor, the figure of Bob Manley. h said Dale, hi ched the second . (To Be Continned Next Sunday.) ~