Evening Star Newspaper, May 10, 1925, Page 76

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, MAY 10, 1925—PART 5. Season’s Ensemble Idea D BY MARY MARSHALL. OME. ONE' suggested . recently that. dressmakeérs and milliners : should no longer be called by these old-time names, but should be knowh as ‘‘ehsemblers.”” * It is {a'pity there ‘i;‘ no. flmhsnulu‘? eqivalent for this yor "h ‘!"mble" s ‘& _particularly difficult k for the Americanbred tongue to encmle and ‘ensembler” un inut . little worse. Yler dictionary equivalent, Bt u hardly carries the same shiide of meaning. The sig-ificant fact is_that a lot of the French dmk&l’l have taken , 1o making and showing hats ‘aince this ensemble idea came to play such an important part in_fas| fon. . Patou and Martial et -Armand are two French dressmakers who are making much of sparts clothes, and they have not hesitated to show sport hats, to- gether with frocks and coats, since faghign decrees’ that, one’s hiat should ch one's frock. ‘e rhilliners have felt -the sameé ure “and ‘otcasionally show simple little, froeks to go With the hats they have, gn dlsplay. Oftener there is a scyrfia handbag, a belt or some other accessory. to- g0 With the hat. One London-"¢oncern s showing tweed sport skirts, together with jaunty lit- tle visored tweed sport Hats. Gloves not infrequently are: sold as:the affin- ities of hats or scarfs or handbags. And a parasol and hat may be as in- separable as' two: love birds cooing on the same - perch. The shopkeeper couldn’t’ think of selling one without the other. It sometimes does make shopping quite expensive~you go out-to buy a hat, and there is no telling what You will have to bring home along with the hat. -Buying an interesting pair of shoes may lead you into buy- ing an accompanying leather belt, for which you can see no immediate need in vour wardrobe. x x ok % TTHE ensemble idea is working a peaceful sort of havoc in the de- partment stores, and it is a difficult problem to find where one department ends and another begins. Slips have to be sold in the blouse department, or women would never be able to match their tunics to them. And it is still a hard question to decide Whether an ensemble frock really be- longs in the frock department, with the coats, or on the racks where the suits are shown. Doubtless this situation, amusing and sometimes vexatious as it may be, makes for much better dressing. Always women of unusual discrimi- nation in matters of dress have paid close attention to the ensemble idea. They have never gone joy to buy anything in the way cessory of dress that their h 3 ving everything as part of a whole. But this has been rather unusual. Now almost every woman feels something of this urge. Fashion demands it. The result is that women as you see them look less like lay figures in a second-hand clothes store. With this feeling for the ensemble, accessories are playing an important role. For it is the well chosen acces- sory that very often links together the whole costume. Just for example. Here is a parasol and a shawl, made to be bought together. They are Lan- vin green with an embroidered lan scape on each. Either one worn sepa- rately with an elaborate frock might appear to poor advantage, but worn together as the sole elaboration of a severely simple white crepe de chine frock and a plain little white felt or silk hat they would produce a really smart appearance. Then there is a hat and scarf to match, a wide-brimmed summery hat of pink and cocoa-colored tulle—a very smart color combination that, by the way—trimmed with a ‘pink tulle flower. With it goes a scarf of the two shades of tulle with a flower matching the one on the hat. With many women the problem of Things Which Are of ‘WHITE OILCLOTH BAG, RAFFIA. BAG BOUND IN PATENT. LEATHER. FLORAL DESIGN, AND BELT AND BAG OF GRE! BLACK PATENT LEATHER. 'EDGED WITH SILVER, WITH BRACELETS TO MATCH. WITH WHITE ENAMEL FASTENING, WITH PINK KASHA AND THEN A BLUE SUEDE BELT gétting a new and smart costume this Summer does not donsist in buying a new frock. Quite often the frock is of lesser importance, The wiser plan may be to go forth jn search of scarf and hat, or belt and handbag, or para- sol and scarf, or shoes and gioves. A very simple little frock of neutral color is all that is needed as back- ground for such distinctive accessories. One well dressed woman is planning to have a number of simple frocks of white crepe de chine. These will be the background of her Summer ward- robe. Different sets of accessories will do the rest. ok ox o ON'T you sometimes wonder when you visit the neckwear counter, in your favorite department store, who is going to wear all the collars and collar and cuft sets, all those ja- bots,and ties and vestees and guimpes and similar jeegaws that are sold at these busy counters? It is especially puzzling to know who is going to wear all those finely made and quite ex- pensive undersleeves. Apparently some one will buy all these things eventually and most of them before many days have passed, for the neck- wear counter is one of the busiest spots in the store at this time of year and you. have to stand many minutes before the busy little saleswoman comes to wait on you. Detachable neckwear really does re- quire considerable attention. Undoubt- edly the reason why the uncollared frock with .woolen or silk fabric un- relieved at the neckline has remained in fashion so long is because it de- mands less time and attention. And many women are going to be a long time in giving in to the new fashion for applied collars. And some women, to all intents and purposes, have registered a molemn vow never to wear high collars as long as they lve. On the other hand, there are some women who will suf- fer all such inconveniences for the sake of what they consider smart. The craze fop mannish effects has favored several different sorts of high collars. For sports wear there is the Footwork and Player’s Trick BY AL DEMAREE. (Thls is one of & series of tips on by Al ree. formerly R R Teurn to piay base ball in big league style.) The batter drives a long fly to the left field fence. It looks like a good, safe double. He turns first base and races toward second, only to be caught at_the bag by inches. '‘Perhaps,” you will say, run fast enough.” But the drive was a long one, and the same runner had made second many times before on shorter hits. “he didn’t GETA chx sTART ./ of Base-Stealing ‘Where, then, lay the trouble? The answer is in his footwork. Two small mistakes in running were in- strumental in putting him out by a very small margin. In the first place, he was just a little slow in starting—only a matter of seconds, perhaps, but enough to lose him the decision in a close play. Again, in turning first base, he lost a step by turning the base on the wrong foot. To the average follower of the game these points may not seem very im- portant, but they are among the de- ciding factors that win of lose games. Learn to get a quick start after hitting the ball. Practice this start as a runner practices for a race. Make sure that you get off on the correct foot each ‘time, as the wrong foot causes you to lose a step and may decide whether or not you reach first base. In turning a base in order to run to the next, learn to pivot or turn on the left foot, touching the bag on the side toward which you run. This will give you the correct balance after making the turn, and eliminate chances for losing a step in your stride. Another most important place in the game in which footwork is a de- ciding factor is base-stealing. Many an otherwise fast runner Is poor at base-stealing because of his failing to ‘“get the jump” oh the pitcher. This requires a fast start at just the right moment. Runners like Max Carey, Frank Frisch and Archdeacon, with a long list of stolen bases to their credit, are experts - at' knowing when to start the play and at getting away with all the speed they possess. My advice to youns players ankious to develop correct footwork is to spend plenty of time learning to start quickly and in using the correct foot when turning bases. Also it is a good plan to take such exercise as will de- velop the chest and give you more wind. Long walks and practice runs will be very valuable for this. A Regular Mother. Peter was homesick. Why it must have been years since he had seen his mother. He sat with his eves on his history book, but his mind far away— far away to last Summer, when he and his mother had had such a lovely time together at DPinehurst Farm. Then had come Winter again, which meant that his mother, a famous vio- linist, must go on tour again and he must_he sent to a boarding school. Today he was resentful toward his mothei 1fe didn’t see why she could’t be content to settle down in some little house with him, for his father, who had died when Peter was very ~small, had left them enough money to live on in a modest way. found himself feeling very jealol his mother’s music, which took her away from him so much when he quite adored her. He thought bitterly of other fellows in the-achool who went home to reg: ular mothers for their week ends, and who lived in the same houses all the time: and had neighborhood friends, and all such things that he had never b had written a long, long letter to his mother, and_had received a long one from her. But one look at the post- mark on his letter from her had brought on this spell of homesickness, for she was half-way across the coun- try from him. And most of the fellows in school had been able to go home to their mothers for the week end. His roommate was even now in the midst of a famlly -party, with his mother cooking his favorite dishes and fuss- ing over him. Tears began to” sting his eyes. He gulped, then got up and walkéd down to the library. There were three fel- lows in the room tinkering with a radio set. They asked him to join of | them, but he answered surlily that he didn’t much care for o, He was mnz: back ‘toward the X door when he héard, sweet and clear through the loud speaker, the sound in. He stopped. The music: He had never heard any one except his mother who played that particular piece so well, and he had heard many violinists. The piece was finished. Then the violinist started another, this time an old regulation high soft collar worn with four-in-hand tie, and fof the tallored sult or suit frock sevérdl sorts of stock-like neck contrivances. Rather trying to any but the slender- est of women is the Van Dyke collar that has been revived. It is made of lace in imitation, not of the feminine collar of the days of Van Dyke, but of the collar worn by cavaliers. (Copyright, 1925.) A NEW anesthetic, which ultimate. “% Iy may result in the abandonment of cocaine for this purpose, has been discovered by Dr. Schulemann, Ger- man scientist, it was announced by the American Chemical Society. The new compound, Known as tuto- kain, is said to have been discovered among the intermediate products in the manufacture ot artificial rubber. Unlike cocaine, it is non-poisonous in practical use, it is said, and can be sterilized without decomposition. ““Cocaine,” according to the society" report, *'is 8o much in demand in Ger- many today that because of s habit. ro}lng properties attempts are be made to discontinue its use and gradually forbid its manufacture and traffic.” Both in chemistry and pharmacy, it is said, German scientists are endea: oring to substitute synthetic chem- icals for medicines obtained from plants. . Aprple Jelly. Wash apples and slice them with- out removing thé skin or seedw. Barely cover the fruit with water and cook slowly until the apples are very tender; drain them through a jelly bag over night. To one pint of Jjuice allow a pound of granulated sugar. Let the juice come to & boil, adding the sugar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. then boil rapidly until the jelly point is reached, put in tumblers and seal PUZZLE NO. 1. Across. Vehicles. Heavy metal. . Time during Which a ehip lies idle in port, without fires. . Babylonian go@dess of war. . Diminutive of Elizabeth. 5. Unclose (poetie). 16. Auditory organ. . Earth. 18. An opera: by Bellini. . Primitive weapon, . Aquatic carnivorous mammals. . Writing instrument. . Portuguese coin. . Command. s8es. IAnymu&g Constructed of eight |2 3 fimnll n!\lmflke fruit (plural). River in 'Bel.rlu was his favorite, and which hjs mother had played for hipr so many’ times, During the piece he feit his mother so very close to him that it aidn’t seem strange, when the piece was fin. ished, to heaf her own dear voice say- ing: “I played that piece for my son, because this is Mother's day H- is far away from me, and as know I was to play until & nm ago, I didn’t notify him to l perhnp‘: he may ‘t;e e if he is, L am telling him, 'lavo -nfl isses, good night.’” “Ol crhd ter to the astonished boys. “That was my mother! Maybe! -lmt Mi:\ 't b‘{u::“ muz. other _fellows’ mof ‘Suits me right m to the ground e that floo — 4 < Girl (as her chair slipped at a cluh meeting)—Now, I have the arefully Chosen Accessories NAVY BLUE AND WHITE POLKA DOT STOCK, WITH LARGE PEARL: PIN, WORN WITH BEIGE ALPACA_COAT D! AND CORAL BROOCH, WO WITH TAILORED SILK SHIRT IN PLACE OF TIE. LARGE COLLAR OF WHITE CHIFFON, WITH COPPER.COLORED AND WHITE JABOT AND WHITE-AND-COPPER-COLORED PEARL PIN; HIGH COLLAR WITH JABOT AT BACK; WIDE CREPE LAR, WORN WITH BLACK Down. 2. Change. 3. Cry of a sheep. Country in Asia Minor. . Jacob’s father-in-law. . Organ of vision. . A flowering plant. . Disturbance. . Aneient city of Lycia, Asla Minor. A spelling book. Bxamited: i Particular place, ‘White m-muno ooupound £ Guard; in eompound words of !"r“eh derivation. ‘Wander. Gat up. g. nnuuwnesay-n._ 30. A minced oath, - Answer to Yesterday's Purile. 083 &6 IR e RIS EOE SOA0E EE EacfE (R NIRAIS] HO_gEEGadn o ang m llU «lu EIC ENIEIBIO] INIETE JRAILITIONEDIAIN] BEIQWL'JBE]D ACE COL- FROCK. BEAUTY CHATS BY EDNA ESNT FORBES. No matter how slim a figure fashion demands, square, bony shoulders will never be considered attractive. We've done away with such things as bust and hips, we've quite eliminated dimples—to my great joy, since I no longer am called upon to give impos- sible directions for putting dimples into undimpled chins—but we don’t yet believe xn hollows around the shouldef bones hor an outstanding spinal column bétween the shoulder bisdes. Yot the very siim girl, who can slide into a tubular dress made out of & yard of cloth and look smart, while her chubby sisters diet and pant with envy, has her own problem when she puts on an evening dress. For all her thinne: her shoulders must be gently rounded, her back flat, Rer upper arms well developed. And those soft, smooth lines she can ac- quire by dafly, careful exercise and Massage with cocoa butter to feed the mn. It you have trouble with the Bt butter, meit it and mix with the pame amount of cold cream; this will give you a oream easier to work Into the skin though not quite so fattening. Sérub the shoulders and chest first with hot water and soAp and rinse with hot 'M.Qr 80 the pom of the skin are open and ready také ub the butter. Pin a soft uloth over the skin to protect your under clothing, for some cream is sure to work out after a mnng” breathing exerc! will traln Oulders to 1 3 fat arms in front of you and.pull them back, fists clenched, to the shoulders, as you breathe in. This helps won- dertully. In a month vouwll see a great im- provement! in two months you should have pasmbly prétty chest and shoulders. Costella.—You cannot coarsen your hair, but You can keep it from slink- ing to your head If you massage the scalp every day until you feel the Interest to Younger Robs a dwelling. Long steps: Surface size. . Effect of pollen on seeds in cross. pollination. Stronghold. 17. Symbuls for English money. thietic In hvor of. Make fun of (slang). Rutof an Adrican tree. mw difficulty, X m in-the mud, 1 inhabitants of Berneo. X Pnhk .l thon::ln pass.’ of Priam, King of Troy. Thcl. umn: offie g. orn by Water. e is un)‘l‘ (abbe.). ¢ -8 uppiied. br.). ‘wihe. Certain chamical compoun Boy‘- I:l.eknune. - - Dewn, 5 1. Biblical sharacter (possesnive). . Either of two Mllllh.flb A color. - SQutMflI State (AdLL). Periods. of. Name of three musical composers. unt, . \ AN OSTRICH FAN AND VANITY BAG COMBINED. A PLAID SILK PURSE WITH GLOVES AND HANDKERCHIEF TO MATCH. AT LOWER RIGHT AN UMBRELLA HANDLE AS LARGE AS A SMALL DOG, WHICH LOOKS LIKE A REAL DOG WHEN YOU CARRY IT, AND A TINY FOLDING CLOCK IN SILVER OR GOLD, WORN ON A CORD OR SILVER CHAIN AS PENDANT. blood circulating through it. Such & treatment usually shows increased vitality in the hair at once, and it will not droop again for hours. Always use a comb with very coarse teeth and shake out your hair through your fingers to air it well. All of these measures tend to fluff out the hair and give it more life. Seeds 500 Years Old. OTUS seeds, dormant since 1425, are to produce blooms in Chicago within & few months. The seeds were found In & hard, membranous husk in a_bed of peat in the Gobi Desert by Prof. Ogha, who gave them 1o Dr. A.-C. Shull, a botanist of the University of Chicago. Dr. SBhull will penetrate the covering of the seeds with sulphuric acid. After soaking in the acld for two hours, the seeds will be planted and permitted to grow. Apple Pudding With Batter. Peel, core, and slice three or four apples. Make a batter of two eggs, well-beaten, one tablespoon of sugar, two tablespoons of melted butter, one and one-half cups of milk, a tea- spoon of vanilla, and two cups of Aour sifted with two teaspoons of baking powder. Beat thoroughly, pour over the apples, steam for 40 minutes, and serve hot with sweet- ened cream or sauce. Fair Exchange. Some motorists stopped their car near a farm orchard and gathered half a peck of apples. As they passed the farmhouse, they jokingly called: We helped ourselves to your apples. Thought we'd tell you.’ “Oh, that's all right called ‘back. il the farmer “I helped myself to your Readers What They Owed to Mother ‘When you grow up you want, of /| course, to make your mother proud of you. And that very same ambi- tion to pleaser mother is what had a very great deal to do wtih the suc- some of the greatest men and They wanted to please their George Washington: the story of George Wash- ington, and how wllhlng to be kind to his mother changed his whole life. ‘Wheh hé was about 18 years old he enlisted as a midshipman, and his trunk was sent on board the ship. His mother not only hated to see him go, but she felt it was not the wise thing for Nnmuw :Iha;l he came to tell . she burst into tears. 'rne youthfut George ordered his trunk sent ashore. “Mother,” he said, “I cah never go and cause you so much griet. I will stay at home.” This #ad & turning point in his life, for nad become a sailor his career would have been far different. Victor Hugo: Victor Hugo, the famous novelist, tells how_his father was away from lome & great deal and his mother shoitldered all the raising of the fam- fly herself. ‘Bhe was a determined, ambitious person, and she was al- Wways encouraging her son and tell- ing him how sure she was that he ‘would. #ome day be a famous writer. Hc never .quite got over the shock ll death, which occurred when he Ith influence is felt in his wm OWh book, “Les Miserables.”” Eugene Fleld: Ennne Field's mother died when he was only 6 years old, but much of his lovely poetry is due to his mem- ary of her. Her disposition,was so sweet and gentle and she was 80 very beautiful that she remained forever in his mind. Eugene said of her, “I have carried the remembrance of her gentle voice and soothing touch all through my life.” Count Tolstoy: Count Tolstoy, the great Russian writer, also had but a memory of his mother. He was very young when she died, and, strangely enough, there were no pictures of her. So he “made her up” in his mind and when he was sad and lonely used to think of her. His father told him that his mother played the piano beautifully, and that she was very clever; in fact, she spoke easily five languages. The young Tol- stoy decided that he wanted to be the sort of man when he grew up that his clever mother would not be ashamed of, had she lived. So, you see, even though he'd never seen her, she had a lot to do with her son’s life. Frances Willard: Frances - Willard, the temperance leader; tells how much her mother encouraged her.. “She never called 8 ‘bad children’,” says Miss Willard. ‘She told us that we were good, and therefore she always expected good things of us. So, of course, we were bound we wouldn't disappoint her.” William Cullen Bryant: Bryant's mother taught him his let- ters, and it was from her that he early gained his love of reading. It wasn’ easy for her to find time to teach her young son, for Bryant's family was poor, and the mother of the family was a sort of factory on a small scale. She spun flax, wove linen, made quilts, dyed all the dress goods, and even made the candles by which the boy tudied his lessons. ~ Yarns of the Big Woods. BY ART CHILDS. - Shovel-Face Osear) (Up in the great londsome woods ot the North the old - -guides have made ub-.ny yarns which they tell over ‘over to the tenderfeet from th oWn way-of explain- trange tracks and “weird r.-Childs, who used to be Rorthern Wisgonsin, collected. these storjes from the. “oldtimers.”) “One of tne strangest animals—I guesa you'd call him an animal—that I ever heard of up in tnue parts is EhtovelFace Osear, the old whn had. been: nvln: a talk on. Queer natural history ot the north Woods to a party of fishermen ssucer-shiaped bed for each mother “But _where does. he get the me‘r'f”ukodl?h called that ,warden in the woods of| lem, an old fisherman, who is the first man, besides the Indians, who ever really saw oné of these shovel-faced animals.” U S Reading'is Believing Teacher—Children, Holland is noted for its cleanliness and its love of truth. Doubtful lieve it: my Iying country student—I don't be- book says it's a low Her Job "n- the little things that count,” d the educational lecturer, responded the primary grade teacher, “but you can't imagine what a l:ian: time we have teaching them to do it Hawful! An_Englishman heard an owl for the firat time. “What was that?" he -keaA owl" was the reply. "My deah fellow, I know that, but what was ‘owling S haret . G Utter ‘Go, my son, and shut the shut- ter.” a mother to her son did utter. “The shutter's shut,” the son did muxur. ‘and 1 can’t shut it any