Evening Star Newspaper, March 5, 1922, Page 63

BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. ‘WOMAN, handsome and of mid- * dle age, entered an afternoon party. On her small, neat head was a small, neat toque. It was oblong; it showed a bit of curled fringe across the forehead; the hair at the temples was drawn stralght back without a forward ficker. The group behind her backysaid: “Her place is with the eminent Vie- torians.” The friendly group said: * “Really, tell us where you find such hats “I make them at home, and I like them was the answer. “I'm an in- dividualist. It's the age for individ- ualism.” Well, that's the only way you can manage to wear the tiny toque these days. Any lingering hope of its re- instatement this spring has been killed by the frosty manner of milli- ners. If a hat is small, it is large; it it is large, it is out of all proportion to trolley car seats. It is more than ever & reason to have your own car. Whether ar no it was the plea from Ttaly that the product of their mills should receive enthusiastic support, the fact that the new hats do not scorn straw is important. * * k GOBER. negative straw, undyed and = dull, is rarely used as a founda- tion for brilliant ornamentation. In- stead, the straw shines in glor Green, vivid Amazonian, is used. Red of flame and flag is there. Copper, shining first low, then brown, is! in keeping with a backward move- ment to brown in gowns. Chinese vellow and French blue are chosen, and black is. of course, plentiful. The delight in green shown by s and milliners is reflected by the public. It is interesting that it comes at a time when English scientists are saying that dn ins inr-l tive predilection for the color in its! light, vivid shade indicates a love of | wide-flung spaces. a peculiar distaste tor small limitatio and close vision. It is the color of the Amazons, say those who study races, which ac- counts for the name given the start- ling, stimulating shade of green found in new fabrics for summer offered as an offset to the monotonous crepe weaves. Callot puts this color on gray crepe Ade chine frocl as embroidery. Other ' French frocks, the straight-line ones, | rry the color in a taffeta sash that hangs in loops to.the floor on one side. Again, there are new silver tissue gowns with Vionnet fan pleat- | ings of green tulle acting as exag- svrated godets on an Egyptian slip. All straws are not plain and de-| THIS RED LACQUERED STRAW TEA HOUR IN PARIS. 0 A CURIOUS QUILL IN NEW PARIS, BESEMBLE HAT WAS SKETCHED THE WIDE ROLLING BRIM OWES ITS SUCCESS ' TRIPES WHICH STUCK THROUGH THE STRAW. HAT BY MADE OF BLACK SATIN AND STRAW WITH AIGRETTES MOUNTED ON STRIPS OF BRAID TO VERLAINE OF A FEATHER DUSTER. ' THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, MARCH 5, 1922—PART 4. ends Many Novelties for the Spring Hat Collection W HATEVER Else Milliners Invent to Cover Women's Heads This Spring, They Do Not Regard It as Worth While Unless It Calls Attention to Itself—The | Tiny Toque Has Vanished and in Its Place Is the Full, Broad Russian Turban, Al- ways With a Conspicuous Trimming—Straw Is Usually Combined With Fabric. e | teathers at the side looks like noth- ing so much as the ancient parlor | duster of the French maid of the | stage. | Lewis of Paris, whose hats are |worn by numbers of Americans, | paints wings with silver to make {them startling. He does this amazing itrick on a black straw hat, immense iin its proportions, with a brim that takes an airplane as its model, It is . mounted on a thick roll of silver LEWIS ALSO BUILDS THIS AIR-| 1ot which flares wildly out beyond PLANE HAT OF BLACK STRAW,|ne face. Against the high, round LINED WITH SILVER CLOTH, AND | crown oddly shaped wings are placed SHOWING AGAINST ITS HIGH | of various height and width. The: CROWN WINGS OF BLACK PAINT-|are spotted and dotted with silver EDK;““ SILVER DOTS, A NEW paint and lined with silver cloth. TR . | however, | mure of surface. Some are so fanci- ful they are fantastic. The more curious they are of -weave, the less admirable are they and the more difficult to wear. Whatever trimming is put on such straws appears unnecessary. They are better when left to themselves. It seems odd to talk so glibly of or- namentation when a while back the trade was deploring the universal and long-established custom of wearing merely a shape, not overly expensive, not hard to find. Shredded feathers appeared as the first break in the plainness. Slowly simplicity gave way to a desire for adornment. The revolution crept quietly upon the pub- lic until one morning it awoke to find that its dearly beloved plain shape had gone into the shadows. A part of this public went merrily into the shops and gorged itself with all the nigh-forgotten ornaments In which milliners delight. * ok ok X THE shops are more lenient tian expensive hat-builders In the variety and quantity of trimming. The French milliners are not racking their imaginations to find new things. Still, ‘they use the cockade of ribbon, the artichokes, flattened out of irreg- ular ends of grosgrain and taffeta ribbon, with the ends dipped in seal- ing wax. There are more leaves than flowers on the new hats, which is more sug- gestive of autumn than spring. They are shaded and take on the deep reds and blues that go with the end of summer rather than its beginning. Some of them are lusterless black. Verlaine of Paris creates a new ‘model with a broad brim of old rose taffeta edged with straw in the same color as the silk and a wide, high ecrown covered with a thick bed of shaded oak leaves. Such things, are commonpleace in.con- trast with the fantastic ornaments that this same milliner makes to grow in her workshop. Think “of aigrettes wildly growing from the {ends of braid. as they do In a curlous AT THE v hat, one whose shape shows imagina- tion as well as its trimmings: The fabrics that go to make it-are black satin and straw, and the burst of Curious idea, this combination of straw, silver tissue and paint! * Ok Ok k NOTHER result of imaginative workmanship is the placement of wings against a lacquered green hat of straw without the addition of fabric. These quills could only have been grown by that bird, the roc, that led the sailor Sinbad to his fortune. They thrust themselves forward far beyond the face. They certainly clear the traffic for the owner better than a policeman’s baton. And a hat of red lacquered straw as huge in its cushion-like propor- tions as the turban of an orlental potentate has a quill slashed like fringe, but so stiff that it stands in [ the air as high as a church steeple. Ribbon has not materialized as a few thought it would. Possibly it is too commonplace, for millions are determined to make strenuous efforts never to do, or use, the obvious. | They are now in the same frame of mind as when they tortured and glycerined ostrich feathers and shel- lacked ribbon. Both these methods are now usual rather than unusual, so they turn their imaginations to something else. There 18 no-diminution of the pres- tige of the hat with its flat, upturn- ed front and its flattened sides that point out beyond the ears. It is an admiral's hat, a Paul Jones hat, a Napoleon hat, what you will. Its shape belongs to those long- ago ages when men's hats were born. In its exaggerated form it was the “chapeau-bras” of gallants whose wigs were s0 big they had to carry their head coverings under their arms. It 1s not a woman's hat nor has it associated itself with her in her progress from chattel to citizen, but she wears it now. And she will continue to wear it this spring. From it has gone the nose veil borrowed from bygone eras of Vene- tian and Sevillian magnificence. For that, thanks. NOT that the wisp of lace was an ugly thing nor in its application without charm or mystery,-but just * % % % there was the snag; €0 many whellosical substitutes for meat are fish, | guide you In your r A Style From China—Silver Cloth, Silver Paint and Taffeta. | VERLAINE OF PARIS DOES NOT GO To EXTREMES IN THiy TAFFETA HAT WITH LARGE CROWN OF SHADED LEAVES, THIS tlth BRIM IS EDGED WITH STRAW. : manner or has a wing curlously | tics, there's an avalanche of them. placed, or something in flowers or | Some people say that bobbed hair feathers the Iike of which was never | did it. seen on land or sea. The paint box| These short brims are straight, but and the varnish pottle are used to|that shape is rare. The usual thing is furnish added novelty. It should be a |to slash them and turn the points great day for the amateur hat-bulld- |back on themselves, or to roll it er. She can go to the iimit of her|backward to the crown like a French capriclous desires and have a fair |pancake. The one shape that stands chance to persuade her friends that out from the common run is tne the trifle cost much money at an ex- “Dell; hat. It's brim, immense and pensive milliner's. She will not fool | flopping, is the same size all around. the expert, but how many WOMeN| The sensationally big airplane hats have you heard say, when gazing &t ycually made of satin have the brim an enchanting illustration of a hal:| gnortened back and front. This is « “You see, I'm exactly in the style, for my hat is exactly like that” Keen perception of differences is not al- ways in the eye of the beholde: * % x x NE might be careless and make the sweeping aesertion -that' all . Tt brim in | trick to keep the eyes focused on the vast sweep of the sides. | Black satin. by the way, has re- turned to fashion for hats and will run even with straw. Feit may last | But it seems to have had its day for | everything except sports. There |rules. And it comes in enchunting Another Change in Waistline BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. The question of skirt length is not LEWIS, THE MAN-MILLINER OF PARIS, DRAWS ATTENTION TO|a moot one in Paris. THE SMALL HAT BY MAKING IT OF BRIGHT GREEN STRAW WITH' SENSATIONAL QUILLS AT ONE SIDE, PROJECTING FAR BEYOND THE | dressmakers who had clung pugna- FACE, e ————————————————————————————————————————————— wore it were without these qualities. ‘The veil, instead of lending it to them, emphasized the lack of it. If women would only learn this truth about dress, that the human quality which shows itself in the physical appearance should be expressed in clothes. There is a decrease of lace and net veils dangling from the hat and fall- ing over the shoulders. The presence of the King of the Hedjaz and his followers at the Paris peace confer- ence caused a revival of the most an- cient head covering. This season it will express itself through an imitation of the man- tilla. It will hang from the inslde of the brim, at the back, as far as the waist. Sometimes the middle is open- ed #o that the two pieces may be brought forward over the shoulders. The small veil that for generations served modern women as a face cov- ering has not been revived. It was dropped by France the summer before the war and has not been taken up. Only the determined individualists wear it, and they appear more pro- vincial than individual. ‘When summer comes there may be a revival of hanging ends from hats, for women do not seem able to sep- arate veils from hot weather. An- clent instincts stirring. probably. There will be sunshade hats aplenty during summer, of the pictorial kind Deauville; these are as wide as a Mexican hat, translucent, {f not trans- parent,,the brim not stiff enough to keep its position and the only trim- ming a band of two-inch black picot ribbon which hangs to the knees. A Meatless Diet. If a man or woman intends to re- duce, one excellent way might be to Bo on a meatless diet for a while. It cannot possibly do any harm, and it can possibly do a lot of good. For one thing, meat is very fattening. Of course there are many people who are ordered on a meatless diet by their doctors. I have never yet known a case that did not thrive on it. A thin person can go on a meit- less diet and get fat by including concentrated foods, such as nuts and cream. A fat person can go on a meatless diet and reduce by being moderately careful not to indulge in too many sweets and rich dishes. Here are some suggestions for meatless menus: | Grapefruit cocktail. Chestnut soup. Spaghetti croquettes. Potatoes. Scalloped mushrooms. Indian pudding. Coffee. Oysters. Cream of asparagus soup. Brasil nut cutlets. Bofled rice. Banana and walnut Cheese straws. Ice cream. Here are two more suggestion: | Creamed fish would serve instead of meat as the main course, and if you were reducing, the fish could be boil- ed and would be 1 fattening. The introduced by Lanvin last year at| BEAUTY CHATS T!lls type of Fat in varying colors, especially marigold yellow, Chl-‘ nese blue and lacquer red. They are handmade to match organdie gowns bound with edges of black =ilk. As Americans consider organdy a trou- blesome and expensive materfal, they may substitute printed challies. This fabric has risen high in fashien since the new year. First it was advanced for children. Now it has been ac- cepted by women. The coloration and the patterns are quite delightful, and it is a pretty present of winter to summer. Sunshade hats of black horsehair with a picot ribbon to match the color of one flower in the challie pattern will be accepted. The new kind of horsehair which the milliners put out in appealing shapes has a luster to it that pleasés our fancy. It shines like frosted ground. and it is more attractive near the skin than in its old harsh days. It drapes well into the type of flam- boyant turban we have adopted from ancient civilizations. It is chosen for the sweeping “Delia” hat that has little ornamentation, which was de- signed for the unsophisticated Eng- lish girl of the nineteenth century and is now adopted by the sophisticated flapper of the twentieth. There is little else, however, that has the unsophisticated appearance in the hats now offered for our heads. Artificiality has crept into them it has into gowns. War simplicity is over. The placement of a plume is rakish. Whatever is perverse is pleasing to the milliners and evident- 1y to the people. Even the demure cloche is cocked up in some bravado BY EDNA KENT FORBES. nuts and eggs, since all of these, can be made sufficiently sustaining so the absence of meat is not felt. Most doctors will agree that it is a good thing fow and then to give the digestion a rest, and one way of doing so is to eliminate meat, which takes longer to digest than any other food. In any case it will not hurt you to experiment a little with yourseif. Angious—Your old-fashioned man- telplece could be a great asset to the room, instead of spoiling it as you seem to think it does. You can dig- nify the whole room if you keep this mantel almost plain, except for & couple of brass candlesticks in Which there should be real candles. These can be bought at the brass shops for a small sum and imitate the old colonial ones so well that they | look.as if they had been smoothed by a century of polishing. If you feel that you should have something more, 2dd a group of small volumes in the center of the shelf. Any more than six or eight of these will spoil the effect. Discouraged.—Since you are fifteen pounds overweight, even though you are avoiding starchy foods, you should make a more careful study of your requirements. You may be eating too much of other foods that are fatten- ing. If you serid me & letter With & stamped addressed envelope. I shall be glad to mall you a chart that will selection of foods, At the recent openings only those ciously to shortness showed any very marked lengthening of the skirt, which had already been shown in a fairly long version at the last open- ing. This applies to the actual distance from the lower edge of the skirt to the ground. In some cases real length from belt to hem has been added. where there has been a len- dency to raise the position of the walst- line, as with Bernard and Martial et BROWN CREPE FROCK SHOWING A BROCADE VEST AND A JET BELT. Armand. Undoubtedly we shall grad- ually get back to a higher waist- line. For one thing, it was inevita- ble that short skirts should become longer, because, as the French dreu-i makers reasoned, they could not be- come much shorter and still remain skirts. And girdles could not be placed much lower and still be gir- dles. { But there seems to be no particu- lar impatience on the part of French or American dressmakers to normal- ize the walstline. That is, if you call it normal to locate it just below the floating ribs. Perhaps you would say that the treatment of the waistline is becom- ing more interesting. The introduc- tion of boleros, which were especially noticed at the opening of Agnes— who, however, showed a lengthening of the actual waist—was spoken of 28 one of the few real midwinter de- velopments of fashion. You can readily, see the possibilities of this mode, and it may seem to you that there is a greater excuse for the long blouse bodice and the hip girdle when the bolero comes to break the dis- tance between shoulders and hips. Of course the bolero properly is a sleeveless affair. Sometimes, how- ever, we find a bodice tha: amounts to a short jacket that ends sufficient- ly distant from the girdle'lirie to re- wveal the bodice or waistcoat beneat This is the type of frock shown in | the sketeh. It is of brown crepe | with a jet belt set below z brocaded vest. eorgette was one of those who | stressed the bolero in the recent openings, and she also showed sleeve- less jackets, some of them hip length. to be worn with many of her new frocks. For the French dressmaker still finds it desirable to design a wrap, for every frock. To be sure, by doing this she does safeguard the effect that the frock will produce ||1)‘ making sure that it wiil be seen with @ harmonizing wrap. But she also sometimes adds a ueat little fig- ure to the price of the gown you buy. | These sleeveless Jacks sponsore:! | by Georgette and ers are very tempting. Lelong is making old- fashioned taffela capes to go with taffeta frocks for the warmer months It i= really difficult to describe ex- actly the- three-piece suit, since of late years the tendency has been to make the skirt and the bodice in one, and a further tendency has been to make jackets or capes to accompany so many frocks. Interest in three- piece suits this season was given something of an impetus by the morn- ing wedding at Westminster Abbey. where this type of garment was often chosen to express the idea of formal morning apparel. Some of Patou's three-piece suits really amounted to this, s the blouses were separate from the skirts. Raisin Buns. Sift with a quart of flour two rounded teaspoons of baking powder and half a teaspoonful of salt, then mix with it two tablespoons each of butter or other shortening and sugar and add enough sweet milk to make a soft dough, about the same as for tea biscuit. Roll out quite thin and sprinkle with powdered sugar and seeded and chopped raisins and cur- rants. Fold over to keep the fruit in place, then cut in inch-wide strips. each about three inches long, or shape into buns and bake in a quick oven until brown. The Children’s Hour. | QHADOWE TTE) 3 “Shadow Photos™ iz another shadow game which affords much amusement. of Get some good-sized sheets wrapping paper. Thumb-tack one on the wall. Have sister kneel on the fioor 8o that the shadow of her hexd and face fall on the sheet of paper. Now, with a soft pencil or crayon draw the outline of the shadow. Six- ter will be surprised to find how comical she looks. Then let sister draw vour shadow photo. This, too, is a good game for a party. R..L. RIBLER. Baked Bananas. Allow one banana for euch person Rub the banana with shortening and then place without peeling in a buk- ing pan and add one-half oyp of watcr |and bake fox ons houx —