Evening Star Newspaper, January 22, 1922, Page 65

‘ whether you diet by eating small THE SUNDAY STAR, - WASHINGTON, D. C. JANUARY 22, 1922—PART 4. Russian Exiles in Paris Give Fashion I BY ANNE XITTENHOUSE. The eyes of those whose fortunes are invested in the business of mak- ing clothes turn to France. The submarine decision, the discussion of disarmament of armies and navies is not the acute problem to the dress- makers and manufacturers; it is the decision on apparel. The fight for less armament affects the future, the fight for colors against black affects the present. One's children may have to stand the future; oneself must stand the hour and the moment. Now that winter comes, we know that spring 1s on the way, and with it a possible new turn in the tide of clothes, This coming week the American buyers will be gathered in Paris to hear and to ses what the arbiters of fashion put forth. Heads of houses have crossed the roaring forties to de on the battleground and bring - , WORTH OF PARIS HAS BUILT GRAY CREPE EMBROIDERED IN GRAY AND TOUCHED WITH CORAL AP NECK, SLEEVES AND WAIST. back to American women the news of how the battle went, Fortunes go up and dowa en these semi-annual decisions, which never fail in vital news values, The women sitting se- renely at home in a farmhouse, or werking more or less petulantly be- hind a counter In some small town, or fretting over the cost of a new carpet in a suburban home will have her ideas of what to wear and what te buy governed by the decision ren- dered during the next month in France. No wonder the eyes of those ‘who inake clothes are turned across the sea. The female population of these United States must soon be newly alounfl.‘ * ¥ Oln dramatio narrative behind the ‘% drastic changes expected in fashion desls with the new influence of the noble Russians who are ex- iled in ¥France, Powerful emigres have always had influence. France chan, English fash- jons when her aristocrats were driven during the revolution to the shores of England. When the Duke of Wel- lington and his fair friends invaded Paris after Waterloo the fashions be- came English. It was smart to fol- low the clothes and the customs of those who had come from London as eonquerors over that Napoleon whom aristocracy despised. Historlans dwell much upan the power of in- vaders to upset established customs and bring new and potent influences to bear upon & people who have drift- ed into a rut through lack of fresh blood. Sometimes the invaders are swallowed up by the people they came to conquer; but nothing ever remains exactly the same after a fresh influx of new.peoples into an old land. Last summer in Paris the designing. houses wers busy absorbing titled Russians as vendeuses or designers. PATTERN TO SHOW A SLIP OF BRI GREEN AND WIDE SLEEVES OF IT. ancestors served jewels iff goid liquor glasses after dinner to a hundred guests were asked to cajole the wife of a war millionaire who had ‘just dropped the knife for the fork into buying a chemise frock. It's a strange THIS GOWN FOR THE SOUTH, OF | World. And one sees emotional and capricious glimpses of it in Paris. * % % X was inevitable that the display WORTH FROCK OF BLACK BROADCLOTH PERFORATED IN A BENEATH. THERE IS AN OPENING AT SIDE, ALSO, TO SHOW THE A few American firms followed suit. It got to be sald around the smart so- cial sets in France that no dressmak- fog house was complete without & Russian duchess of its own. Amer- fcans wers highly entertained by a titled emigre serving them, showing the new clothes, posing in hats, wraps and frocks. It lent an air of festiv- ity and amusement to an otherwise drab and fretful business. Then, as now, the Russians are starving in Paris. Of that there is small doubt. Appeals for help wers, and are, continuous. During such appeals a strange and {llogical thing happened: The Americans, under the direction of Miss Anne Morgan, were asking aid for devastated France on one hand, while the French were ask- ing aid for the noble refugees from Russia on the other hand. Our sym- pathy was expended on the Frenoch. French sentiment was expended on the Russians. Positions for them were asked and found. Women whose Surplus Weight. A humorous doctor recently wrote an article discussing the amount of surplus weight there was in the world and the general gain in efficlency that would result If all the nations dieted down to proper individual amounts. I have forgotten exactly how many billion pounds the world was to lose or how many million working hours of accomplishment were to be gained. He chose a rather wild and vague aspect of the subject of reduction, though he did make of it an interest- ing article. I wish he had calculated how many starving children in Russia might be saved if they could be given the amount of food consumed by the fat woman to whom it is harmful rather than a benefit! For In order to reduce it {s neces- sary to diet. It doés not matter quantities of everything you want or larger quantities of foods which do not fatten. You need not mind even i you feel hungry, and you will neither starve to death nor ruin your health by eating too little. Human beings are very much like the camel who stores up enough fat in the - LT AL SRR I BT, R, TSRt M R A RO it RS B R T L T BY EDNA KENT FORBES. the human being is not. But both, if deprived of the accustomed amount of food, begin to consume this de- posit of fat. You may rest assured that If you eat half of the amount you are accustomed to, you will make up from your own overweight body the amount of food it has been accus- tomed to receive. Meantime, you yourself, as you re- duce, will begin to look younger and to feel younger. Flesh and youth, do not go well together. Mrs. P. H. S—The formuli for the pilocarpine hair tonic is: Any reliable drug store can fili this for you. I have had nothing but good reports about this tonic from every- one who has used it. It is, of course, not a dye. It stimulates the coldr cells and makes the hair produce its own color. Bright Eyes—As you have had an operation and been ill, it is quite natural for your halr to fall out. It will come back agaln as you grow stronger. Meantime, have. the tonic given adove made Up and use it thros| taking these garments to times & woolny, & of so much sentiment and kindli- ness toward a pitifully broken social : FRANCE Is Especially Interested in the Production of Clothes—Brilliant Fabrics and Flowers Will Be Splashed Against Dark Foundations and Gorgeous Russian Embroidery—Paris Turns Toward Titled Foreigners to Assist in Fight for Bright Colors as an Offset to the Monotony of Black Clothes—Smart Moscow Blouses, Heavily Embroideréd in the Russian Style. : IGHT GREEN GEORGETTE CREPB Gabrielle Chanel of Paris, who is one of the well dressed designers in a well known set, 1s wearing and mak- ing these blouses. They cost 1,800 francs. The money goes to the poor Russians who sit all day in the ouv- roirs, where they are kept warm and properly fed. These blouses are of heavy cream crepe de chine, which serves as a neutral foundation for the gorgeous bands of embroidery which fortunate ’“ that has not entirely died ‘dowsn. and shrewd Americans brought from Russia in pre-Lenin days. Just herea word to the wise. If you have any of class should result in some specific self-movement toward organized ef- fort. And it has come. Exiled Rus- X this handiwork, no matter where you got it, use it quickly, for in another month you will be in the top-notch of fashion. * % % x RODIER. the fabric designer in Paris, was quick to see the new movement toward Russian ideas, so he put on the market wide cotton gal- loons covered with highly-colored A Convalescent’s Reading Table. Violet Heath was recovering very sat- isfactorily from a long lllness. For wecks, it seemed, she had opened her mouth and closed it, sald “ninety-nine” and ‘“one, two, three” over and over aga‘n, while her poor chest was thumped and examined—and now, at last, her chest symptoms had-disappeared. She was declared, in the language of the doctors, to be “out of the woods”. And in her big, airy pink bedroom she was doing her best to convalesce in the most approved fashlon, with due regard to calories, vitamines and hours of re- laxation, -~ But Violet Heath, for all her fifteen vears of happy days, was weary and time dragged maddeningly. The hours that her mother was out of the room she listened to the clock ticking until, almost mechanically, she found her thin hand moving weakly, keep- ing time with the. tick-tock of the 1ittle china clock. “Idiotic,” she would murmur, and turn her attention to the walls. The pictures that were go familiar, the pattern of the walllpaper, the crack in the .Windowglass where Johnale had thrown a stone at the baldony and missed it—the very patch that had been applied With dainty care to her filmy. lace curtains—bored ‘her. Every little silly detail hammered itself into her brain. And she was tired of herself—of her thoughts, of the 'silly. little 1deas that. trailed aimlessly” across her mind. I want-to read,” she announced one morning. - i But the book she desired was a dead ‘weight in her blue-veined hands and In ten minutes it fell to the floor. .. There was & pain ia the back ef RUSSIAN BLOUSE, WHICH GRAND DUCHESS MARIE WILL WEAR AT CHARITY BAZAAR. ¥ sians have put thelr fingers as ‘defl- nitely upon the new fashions for Franoe and America as Bakst and his colorful dancers did the first season the Imperial Russian ballet appeared in Paris. At that time the French dressmakers threw over all other in- fluences and exploited Moscow and Bagdad, ‘as the costumery of both cities was welded in the work of the ballet. It was from these perform- ances we got the vital eriental ‘influ- ‘The Grand Duchess Marle Paviovna gave ‘the impetus to the Russian blouse as a kind of straight, hipltne cuirass banded ‘with brilliant, crude embroidery. She was- aided and abetted in the fashion by the Princess Olga Ouroussoff. Both of these Wom- en of high estate 'have established ouvroirs for Russiafi exiles in Paris, the work of which is mostly expended on ocolorful blouses. The anistocrats) of Paris, giving aid to their class, are| R i CHANBL OF PARIS BUILDS EMBROIDERED WITH BALLS OF S oL away AN} 6.3 U THIS NEW MODEL OF TULLE WHITE CHENILLE. FRINGE OF CHENILLE HANGS FROM SHOULDERS AT BACK, LOOPED AT WAIST TO RESEMBLE A CAPE. cross-stitch and lattice work in vivid and elementary Slavic style. ‘The French are going the Russians one better in making other vivid blouses of dark red crepe de chine covered with narrow rows of em- broidery in yellow, red, blue, purple and black. They reach to the hips HOME NURSING AND HEALTH HINTS BY M. JESSIE LEITCH. ing to hold the book. She was dis- appointed. She struggled with tears that were very near. Then came her father, stamping cheerily up the stairs, with snow- flakes shining in) his hair and a new book tucked under his arm. “Mother sald you felt like reading,” he began. Then saw the book that had fallen to the floor, sensed ‘the bitterness of his little daughter’s dis- appointment over this evidence of her Weakness. “Hands & Dit weak?™ he sald. know a trick to help that” And he stamped down the stairs again and out to the garage. - He brought & wooden box back to the bedside, a box just large enough to cover the girl's knees. o Bhe stared in amazement. "But when her father began to carve the edges from the box, with fine discregard for the polished floor, she began to understand. From each side of the box he cut away pleces of wood until the box rested on the bed and across the girl's. kneep without touching her. Nails were driven into the box at each end, a free end of the nall being left to hold the pages of the book which this kindly father placed on the improvised reading table. The nails helped to hold the book firmly, without any effort from the girl. Eagerly she tried it out and found that she could sit up and read most comfortably.. The only thing she had to do was to turn the pages. “Looks.a bit rough. We can paint it, or cover it with chints,” said her father. “Meantime, it fills the bill and takes the strain off your hands, does It ROLT” . Aad Vielss sgreed, I % and are tightly fitted to the figure at the hem. 1 A writer from Paris says that black clothes are like cats with nine lives— hard to kill—but dressmakers over there believe they are finishing their ninth life at this hour. Welcome idea. Red gowns embroidered in gold, bright blue frocks embroidered in silver, frequently make their ap- pearance at the dancing places where smart society gathers to set the styles. Silver cloth is having no end of a success from the Paris viewpoint and turquoise blue in replacing black in the more formal gowns worn at big affairs at the expensive and crowded pleasure spots. There are silks printed like cali- coes and Chinese brocades, which are oftered for spring frocks; their bind- ing of black lacquered ribbon is a tribute to a dying fashion. Square capes in vivid colors, made of satin, crepe de chine and faille, are placed behind black gowns %0 show that the ‘world repudiates the monotony of one color. Such capes are like the blankets oarried by the Taos Indians in New Mexico in those vivid strests where one encounters &s many New York artists hunting for color as Indians waiting for a chance to pose. It is safe to say that if Paris artists were excited’ over the colors of the Taos land French clothes would imme- diately reflect it. They gather in- spiration from just such sources in France, and we go to France to see what she has seen—and utilized. ‘There are other means than bright, square. capes suspended .from the wrists by jeweled bracelets to offset the black foundation to which some ‘women cling. Worth of Paris is of- fering new black gowns that have superimposed color - in garlands of roses and grapes. Not fragile gar- lands, these, but welghty accessories that keep the attention diverted from the somber dackground, reviving even so commonplace a fabric as black crepe, into new life. France offers such costumes to us for the after- noon, which to our way of thinking is odd, indeed, We make them serve for dinner and the theater. The gar- lands make it too gay for the day hours, while the weave and the high neck are toe fuformal for dances. deas for Spring Wesdr e e O e e e e ONE thing seems certain, that Paris will ofter the type of frock which the American finds hard to place. There will not be much change from the informal mneckline which French women have considered suf- ficlently ceremonious since the war began. Gowns are to be still slightly low in the neck, possibly sleeveless, always with an extension of the fab- ric over the top of the arms; if sleeves are omitted there is also a complete omission of that gaping empty space beneath the arms which even lovely youth could not make WORTH' DINNER FROCK OF BLACK CREPE MOROCAIN BUILT IN CLASSIC STYLE WITH DEEP SURPLICE NECKLINE TO REPLACE THE ITALIAN OBLONG. AT ONE SIDE THERE IS A HEAVY GARLAND OF GRAPES AND ROSES. lovely. While such frocks will go on | ocean where the ex-emperor of Aus- their confident path, another type of | tria-Hungary must spend his exile. Bown wedges fts way into the front!This kind of ornamental work is & line; it 18 well draped across the hips | patterned perforation in the cloth and shows clever manipulation of | with edges embroidered. ~When two skirts, giving one a prophetic | Worth puts it on his new frocks he glimpse of 1880 styles. has no intention of letting it hide Worth 18 one of the designers who | itself. He'puts a bright red, green gives new impetus to the kind of |or turquoise silk lining beneath it to work we associate with Funchal,|show through the holes. Possibly he nestling in the island of Madeira, adds a girdle at the hips which that rocky accident in the Atlantic matches the color of the underslip. ! Nursery Pictures in Clothes BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. When there are only a few Inches of fabric to work on, it is not the easlest thing in the world to con- stantly devise new and interesting because it has been shelved to a large extent by those who are grown-up, They are tired of fit. Children are enamored of it, for they things to interest buyers. One can| know it is the taste of adults, and work on wondrous schemes, both good and new, with big pieces of ma- terial, which are intended to be draped on large and well poised bodies, but when it comes to work- ing for children, there's the rub. It is really quite amazing what is accomplished in such tiny costumes. One is finished almost before one has begun, end yet ingenuity and skilled workmanship get full play. Several years ago an American de- signer of juvenile clothes bethought herself of the interesting scheme of putting a flight of colored butter- flies across the surface of a frock. She cut the butterflies out of fine linen in Such pastel shades as pink, yellow apd blue, and buttonholed them to the handkerchief linen of the short and otherwise simple frock. The effect was magical. One felt that June had come, that a garden of sweet smelling flowers had been brought into the heated indoors. To- day, that.idea is good and successful, but it has many rivals, some not so gracious. Some one, somewhere, be- gan to put small animals on the surface of juvenile gowns and the idea grew until it was accepted as conventional. Birds are, of course, the first, thought of thess colorists. Small pigs and puppies, tiny cates and rab- bits appeared. They were embroid- ered or cut from colored cloth. The sketch shows a frock for a youngster, which has on the foulard, pat- terned t design intended for the nur p of the frock is built ot ed silk and the Jacket an. «t are of blue serge. It seems strange to the conventional to put children into three-plece gsowns and yet this is dona. No one balks at following adult styles in aursery clothes. This blue serge ocould be lengthened and widened and suit the mother of the child very well, but that fact in these days,| COLLAR AND CUF¥S. - does not make the costume any the( .y pave never ceased to belleve less desirable for one who is ashamed | tpemselves alluringly’ turned -out to show the knees. whenever they wear that which their The hat, by the way, Is buiit to| mothers should be wearing. 2 match the frock. It's aiway the{ Surely they should be happy this dressmakers have, this matching the| spring. The bars are down, Few headgear to the gown and keeping | things in clothes are forbidden them. the milliner from, the chance to| Not since the days of the infantas pldase one with a harmonious hat.|of Spain have tiny tots been' per- ' To go back to juvenile clothes,| mitted to gu out in such glory and * Dowever. Blue serge ia the fabric of give to their clothes auch airs o€ = he hour for the youngsters, possidly ' sophistication. - . CHILD’S SPRING FROCK OF BLUE - SERGE, WITH APPLIED DESIGNS - OF FIGURED FOULARD IN BLUB AND RED. JACKET HAS WHITE T