Evening Star Newspaper, July 10, 1921, Page 57

N THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. © —_ wsewes wesmwosporwememsrs % Designers of Paris Produce Remarkable Negliges for Hot Weather Hours freedom the figure spreads. and re- | of corsets for one season and to pay: . g ULY 15 the Month OE Welcomed Indolcnce. ancl Dressmakcrs Have persuadecl , JULY 10, 1921-PART 4% . gardless of all thie econiums of the|$100 a pair for some of them. Yet: classicists upon the Greek figure, the we are asked to accept the dictum’ American woman has an uncomfort-| that it is a corsetless age! 2 . able sense of ugliness when she be- | £ 5% & H Women to Refuse Unattractive Clothes for Hot Weather by Producing Loose SRS IS 2 AT 1| A NOTHER cosntial Toundation tor Y > E g " . - go under these loose gowns. Tn| he neglige | d weil’ Robes With Beauty Sometimes Denied Evenmg Gowns—French Capital Is Partic~ | |, sbds i, Ml o i, This cun be Doumnt at the! ) E = s B 3 ;';smt'::v’ud:‘;agom is 'ufl“hlrrwl._. l)rla,j-horm as cheaply as one can make’ ularly Anxious to Please in This Type of Dress—Americans Are Selectmg Many Reve s it dozen L‘,[T\ T),'..‘“:“;{i ekl e ol s L3 B s fered for dyiflfr::n:e\':nrv-(l‘- f u:xfr:llrlf;s-.l\‘:"nrxl'lu crepe is offered. but um; of crepe e chine such as one often | buys in underclothes in the shops is uxcless If 2 woman cannot afford to in-" ; corscts for | Aulge her caprice in separate linings,. hear Worth |let her decide on a single one in flesh ¢ because he | pink, cream white, or mist gray. out of a snug harbor to battle with th;twlna and waves of publie lite. 2 woman s busy during the day, are boun huy one would think she would care to g T A be quiet et night, but ask any young : say that Poiret is crazy st who works if this is her opinion g advocates corsets, we want to ask And just one werd more: Tt ¥ of 1ife and her negative will be de- how. then, are the corset makers|often better to cut this lining witin éided. Other women reply “no” with piling up their little fortunes. Think |a slight sleeve and a deep low neek as much vehemende. of women paying $100 a pair for rub- | rather than straighten it at the tep praghapr ber corsets. | and hold it up with shoulder wtrags. There was nothing like the variety! There i8 a reaction in faver of &n force of the necd for varic The commerg¢ialists ha WH‘EN’ once women get in motlon, i:Azm‘nl n|1§1 days when cvery woman | apology for a sleeve in linings. W vas tightly corseted after she was| outer clothes are to continue (rami- of ule: they éan't ::;. o\lt’.f['. Q! I".l- sixteen years old. And $10 . the better judges of good abhorrent. Loneliness is to be avoid- good price in those halycon irg advocate a bit more prudery 2 re asked to buy s vering up the bod g ed, even if it is necessary to do use- lews and foollsh things When onds & woman #tarts dloss contact with the outer world she feéls as though the electrio current of life had been ocut off if she remains at home. It is this condition which spreads over the civilized world and keeps women from putting money into the gowns that can be worn only ameng one's intimates and under one roof. ‘While the English regard a tea gown s a simple and nécessary garment, the The Home Laundry. had to accustom themseclves to com- bining kitchen and laundry In one room, but the fact remins that to do | the washing in the room where food is prepared is decidedly inappropriate. . are now built with laundries in the u 1C ye basement, which may be used by the tenants, and this is a 1 distinet step i American 18 apt to look upon it as an forward in apartment house construc- e e form rd in apartment h construc- || Mrs. John Brooks Henderson ‘ wealthy leisure. There should come To place the laundry tubs in the | about fine training in the opposite direc- Kitchen of a house is & piece of bad BY MARGARET B. DOWAING. \ugement. The to do plu ment than on the pipes do not b, 1o be carried up. 8o there can be no plea of cconomy To be sure, it is desira light, dry place to do but it is not diff conditions in the cell the lightest corner should be chosen If possible, the laundry ro be separated from the res Ly board partitions ble on account of the comes from a furnace. The having the laundry thus a matter of not tion. French women, aided by their dress- maltbrs, never cease to extol the useful? noes and pleasure of loose apparel, thin end colorful, which they term a robe for the fhtertor. As usual with the French Hnguagé the phrasing gives one a clear understanding of the services of such ap- parel ; the English word tea gown means BOtRIRg to the majority of American womeh who, although they use the Aniglo-Saxon word, would be shocked at #nding themseives rushing home at 4:30 it cosis Every large city boasts of one or two “fathe in the sense of impor- tant civic activities, but Washington | can claim « “mother.” in Mrs. John Brooks Henderson, the chatelaine of Boundary Castle and the ploneer of l more useful movements than any half | dozen of her sex in other communities. | Since the cult of the beautiful reaches i i \ m should more people and performs a greater service in humanizing the muniei- pality, Washington owes a big debt of gratitude to one whose volce has al fn the Afternoon to dress up In such 3 ways been raised to clevate its fivery 1 pour tea in the library to men ) the floor is rdainly esthetic standards. Mrs. Henderson and women who drop in after the day's i ! s I s necessity, though it docs add to the | has erected numerous artistic dwell- " work. comfort” for the one does the | Our men don't drop in at 4:30 in the weehing. j ings on 16th street, and the stately afternoon, to begin with, Our_women When having the laundry built or | Park opposite her home, recently don't come home untll dark. No one renovated, get the created. is another visible token of- across this expansive continent feels the »:””."5 on the wali, ah: | her effort toward making Washing- e for strong black tea in the after- | il ! on ihmaall, hoon. We dine at 7, as & rule, and we ; ; supplies und s don’t wWant to ruin our dinner by eating ¢ 1 cakes, muffins and cinnamon ftoast at the tag end of the day. Also we have ‘ 2 strong theory that strong tea keeps us awake at night, and as rule, we for slee i Yi thess_things, the ton one of the most beautiful cities - of the world. She gave the ground { for this park, and furnished many of { the plans by which the Army engi-. neers are transforming a wide area of wasie land overlooking the ramparts into a landscape which is woMhy of its sitnation. Mrs. Henderson is cer- tainly the “mother” of the period ; style of architecture, and the fidelity accs outset house gown that appeals to the Amer- | 0% GRS (0 AN ican idea of what is considered proper | G0 pIE RS B COET Considering all and lovely. 1t runs along convention-| yiiio niore after the French appeliation for a luxurious and al lines, it is true, but it atones for| " "“io" Lonilv not ‘comPortable costume for intimate hours § | euch monotony by its coloring. & TAURALY Eisve, at home should please the Américan i It begins as a simple one-plece| gives do not hav iothes fnore than the British locallsm. The § | frock loosely hung from the shoulders | yoicy “7p "' ang” that if they are American woman dearly likes her com- and arranged in wide tucks between | 20 =G S Oy v ashing, thor- 3 fort at the dinner table, although stre hips and hem. So far, all is simple. It Washed and dried An direct | rarely accepts the extravagance of the Is when a coat of brown net is added | SUREN WiRReq AR0 O ary, Even | robe interior. But she coples it that brilllancy begins. The net in the | 77U FHE B o ndry it may be afar off. One speaks now of the ma- coat' is coarse, with sufficient bod¥ tol ;¢ an additional electric plug will rity, not the minority, with fashionable give character to the wellow chiffon i, =0 oo hoiq " ror providing heat {:nm Slip beneath. Tt is heavily embroid-| ¢t G 400 > Mot Brca with gola thread. which adds to] ‘% {500 iaea 10 have o itk character. t sweeps over he | ; by e - prus slikes to be conventional sutaore down the back and falls In] NE drying tree In the lann .,_B‘ MR dos Dot e e & flaring train on the floor. clothes may be dried : o ¥ 3 dry them outside suades her smart women to wear loose may orfental pajamas when they are at home color scheme. They are bunched at| 0 ©F0 h , zed i Th the end of a yellow girdle, the leaves | pe BITRNEA, B0 XU 0N o hung in the fate afternoon or evening. o world knows this and Yaughs at it, be- turning from bronze to seal brown| . ,ui {ne room to accommodate the ¢ause the custom is misunderstood. with & ficker of dark red at the|Shout the TOOW 0 The French do not wear this style of BLACK SATIN PAJAMAS WORY BY YVONNE DE BRAY, THE AOTRESS. THEY ARE WIDE, THE COAT ABOVE IS LONG AND AND THERE IS A WHITE BLOUSE WITH FRILLED FRONT, ABL BY DRECOLL OF PARIS. BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. provide themselves With alluring tea gowns, as these garments continué T IS claimed by women who 1ead | 1o be called after the Britlsh aan- fashionable lives that they have | ner: they wear them at thelr own not enough leisure time in Win-|ginner tables. They find uch clothes ter to wear alluring loose robes!an agrecable eompromise between for- the-dnformality of the house. ¢he geverity of outdoor eftermoon They clalm that the social season is|aytire and the expensive formality of too hectic; too much public life i8|.n evening gown. denter. Where conditions may be ideal the laundry on the ground floor. usually adjoining the kitchen, has its advan- *® * ¥ * THE woman who intends to indulge compressed in a Bhort space to allow | gy such women are in the tal en 1t is lighte a dryer and pparel down to their dinnér table, eve herself tn buch loose and comfort- | tages. It is lighter and dry I in the expense of o . e . 2 3 erself n & coessible to the kit . Less time them to indulge e minority. Others realizs thal thd .. .. yne vamily, but they do wiar it able robes for the indolent hours|aceq i *iaken in swalking up and buying useless dlothes. Thers are wémen who, usually belonging to tha older married set and having turned their backs upon the custom of dining out nightly, eight winter months ard spant I frenzied activity. Even thoie Wid could be calm, tefuse to be so. Bveh those who could comtentedly sail dh serene waters insist upon running down stairs. In o very well- planned bouse the laundry is so ar- ranged while the grade of the yard at this angle of the house is such that a single step leads from the room to the ground level. This | makes the task of carrying baskets in their morning roomg and wlso fn_the rodms In WA they recelve intimate Trieonds. As we Kkhow pajamis, they are cer- tainly hot oftdited with sufficient ele- should remember the value of flowers. 1In summer days they fit into the land- scape, they g0 with the decorations of the house, they should be worn on the hat, at the waist and even pinned on DINNER GOWN ON LEFT OF RED CREPE GEORGETTE, THE DRAPERY OF WHICH BPGINS IN ARMLET OF MATERIAL. A _BLACK AND WHIT) EANVIN, N_ RIGHT 18 SWER! IT IS BY JEANNE ON_ ‘B GOWN MADE FROM ED SHAWL DRAPED OVER FLESH-COLORED OREPE GEOR- the parasol aftér the hew French tashion. One thing that Is necessary in house gowns is looseness. Nothing must re- trict the figure except the corset. The wise woman who has lost the look of an eel should not discard the corset @ven in her careless hours. It may be of rubbef, of elastic webbing, it may be of brocade iightly boned, but it should be there. indulgence In of freshly washed clothes to the dry- ing yard very simple. With electric irons ironing is not the hot work that it used to be when it was necessary to keep a hot coal fire burning even in midsummer to provide hot irons. But at best iron- ing is hot work and in planning the laundry, if ironing is to be done there, it is a good plan to have enough windows to provide free ven- tilation. It is not an expensive prop- osition to have an electric plug on a Through constant FLO GPATE. AN ONYX BRACELET IS WORN ON ONE ARM, ABOVE ELBOW, back porch where the ironing can be ¢ outside of the bedivom, aon o Mepms aslie 5t i iy trely oriental things that done out of doors in very warm weather. The Train Lunch. ’3:: - f black satin, the IS0 d envied. They are of black satln, s S rousars reaching to the anklés, the coat MRS. JOHN B. HENDERSON. = ¢ reaching to the hips. The hems o{ t?‘: (Copyright by Harris & Ewing.) SRRt Dantaloons are wde, HeoD e Pl with whieh her artisans have fash -1 AR foned anclen Venetian pal - ‘ T35 loose, has en irregular hem, & WU French villas, Spanish mansions and == girdle and long « o whits chiffon colonial dwellings has impressed all cuffs. Beneath it goes ihe more elegant houses erected in > PALE 3ITH ROSES. i g RO YELLOW NEGLIGE FOR DINNER AT HOME. OVER IT IS A COAT OF ¢ IN GOLD, WHICH FALLS IN A LONG TRAIN AT BA CK.WI'I’E GIRDLE AP BROWN. EMBROIDERED OF YELLOW AND BROWN FA!'!'INEB blouse with wide turnover collar and white trills. Every woman steeped in conserva- tism could not find an error in good taste in this costume, for she finds that the name is more astounding than the garment. It I8 quite pos- sible t.at & woman could wear it in t1: strest and, walking carefully, 45 eéye would be turned toward her ankl THe black and white color scheme lends it dignity. The young women will copy it in such colors as Chinese red, French blue, topez , apple-green. e i mx“uu‘r fasbion exhibited in its most gorgeous and Eastern man- ner has induced women to wear llmpls-shhu silk pajamas about the house in the mornihg. The trousers are cut a8 wide as & skirt; the blouse above has the breadth &nd grace of a Persian tunic. There are long squere sleeves, deep V neck out- lined with 8 wido r‘o}lrldnli ‘go‘ll]l‘ra, 1 pockets and a o o lorist desires. A Wif- v be attached each he extremists slip- The Uked; * % x % I’l' would not be possible for the Frenoh dressmakers to ignore the possibilities for neglige epparel in that symbol of Spain, the embrold- ered shawl, which they have forced upon women's attention after two years of continuous work. American the fashion. If she does not look upon it with enthusiasm, at least, she regards it with interest. Francs exploits a kind of neglige of a shawl which she offers as R SSLATTET, S considered at all, but when a woman considers clothes she should of each crepe rge black of the shawl, there is an onyx let worn above the elbow in the ch fashion; one which Americans have acvepted. The black satin sHp- pers with high red heels are acces- sories which bootmakers are per- suading us to accept. CREPE There is a&nother type of Fieuch'CREPE IS SEEEER I_— INFORMAL HOUSE GOWN._OF IN SAME TONE. THE CHIFFON IS LAID ARRANGED LIKE A REDINGOJE. w (3 —— Since meals on the diner have come to cost so much we have grown bold \about carrying our lunch and eating it unashamed under the supercilious eyes of our fellow traveler. We are even aware of a look of appetite and envy under superciliousness. We have a thermos bottle, filled with coffee, unless the children are with us, when we take cocoa, because we can all take cocoa, but the children may not have coffee or tea. If it is very hot we take lemonade, rather tart, or iced tea, that has very little tea, but much lemon in it. We have a very precious tin box dedicated to the train lunch for years in our family, filled with sandwiches, cake or cookies, and & bit of relish of some sort. For the sandwiches, we have always gome of plain bread and butter, some of pea- nut butter, a few wlith some sweet jam or honey filling, and plenty of substantial ones of meat or egg, all with crusts trimmed off, and neatly | stacked in oiled paper pockets. The relish s fresh celery, or lettuce hearts, or tiny raw, skinned tomatoes, radishes, olives or pickles. We al- ways take some fresh fruit, oranges or apples, in a separate parcel. We have paper cups and napkins, and we are very meat as to scraps and fruit rinds. Indeed our train meal Is just as carefully planned, as nutritive, ap- petizing and dainty as any meal at home, and we snap our fingers at the haughty dinner menu. Having thought out our problem of unexpectedly, or any of the things the last twenty vears. The widow of John Brooks Henderson. former sens- tor from Missouri, and one who cast & decisive vote in the impeachment trial of Andrew Johnson. this representa- tive American woman has held for half a century a lofty social position in_the capitai. Mrs. Henderson has achiéved many things independent of the accident of her husband’s political position. She is one of the forces which made the campaign for suffrage possible dur- ing the bleak years when it was & subject of contumely, and she . Is among the few living mupporters of Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Susan B. Anthony and the hosts who followed them. Her home and her purse were always open to aid the cause. She is a ploneer in the prohibition cause also. Few of the older Wash- ingtonians will forget the excitement of that evening when the contents of the generously filled Henderson Wine cellar were poured Into the gutters. Such a sight has become rather familiar in the past three years, when the agents of the law have come into possession of unlawful collections, but Mrs. Henderson's scene was staged some fifteen years prior to the adop- tion of the eighteenth amendment. Through study and experiment, shs became convinced that alcohel in every form was evil in the moral ahd material way, and she acted oh tl conviction promptly and thor A Mrs. Henderson may be said to be as fervent an advocate of thé strénu- ous 1ife as the late Theodore Robse- velt. Though she has passed the three score years and ten, she can walk several miles daily in all sorts of" weather and can dance with the lightest and gayest of the maids. The sleeping_porch idea may also claim very first outdoor befiroom in Wash ington, and has since converted thou. that may happen, and do not matter greatly perhaps with grownups, but need to provide against when we travel with children. And thus we do not buy poor and expensive fruits and candlies on the train or in the station. Scrambled Eggs and Clams. Wash two dozen soft clams and cut off the hard part, chop it fine, cover with cold water and simmer until the clams are tender and the water is nearly evaporated. Meit three table- spoons of butter in a frying pan and pour in the cooked clam mixture and the soft uncooked portions. Cook un- ti] slightly browned, then pour in six egge beaten slightly and mixed with one-half cup of milk. Stir until the eggs are creamy and serve at once Seeson with salt and pepper. . MAUVE-COLORED CHIFFON AND the train meal, we are prepared for any emergency of delay, of crowded trains, of the diners being left off IN WIDE TUCKS; THE sands to her way of thinking. Soma. of this energetis lady's friends & scribe her as one of the most aety of the antagonists of the Victorian ideal for women, to be delicats helpless. Mrs. Henderson for A years and more has carried on the most active propaganda for heAlth.. and for the establishment of tules which make for that essing. er vigorous Tonograph; “Health and Aristocracy,” turned " the current of many minds gf‘:m being her, in the local sense, as she had the 0} ot o inestimable .. - prone to faint and to shriek, and ghe-=0 has encouraged the athletic, mn:‘-:’.u;. ous woman who is 8o much In evi-~11 dence in Washington at the presamt =7 time. There are’ more women phst in the United States than in all countries of Europe combined.