The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 7, 1902, Page 7

A PICTURE. HART 1~ DEEF &EREEN TRIMMED wrTH TwWO SPRrRERDING PLUMES. IS8 LEILA PAGET and the Princess Victoria of Wales went to the matinee the other after- Paget is the daughter of Mrs. Arthur Paget and fis s known as an Anglo-American er. Her mother was Miss Stevens ew York; the Princess Victoria i§ the married daughter of King Edward One of the young ladies was gowned in & bisque-colored cloth suit, trimmed with olored bands, with an applique of lace above the skirt flounce. The other wore a very neat black tailor- ed gown, beautifully. trimmed with em- broidered bunches of grapes, with every grape raised from the cloth. The hats were picture hats, and the neck arrange- ments were elaborate and fluffy, to use an American description. the same time two represen- ety girls of New York were he matinee. Their gowns Were ne same lines. One wore a f vy blue, trimmed with two deep flounces, edged with green and bor- dered with a pointed trimming at the bead of e upper flounce, with a waist in blue a green r was gowned in rather a qusint suit in golden fawn, trimmed with ches of fringe, each fringe ending with ed ball of worsted goods. The gowns were evidently matinee theater suits, Marie Corelli and Lady Byron. The two most inveterate matinee goers d to be Marie Corell} One of these ladles performance a gown in stone-co goods, made with a Louis XV at he skirt was very elab- trimmed with a dyed lace in gray, es were wide ones, falling dersleeves. The yoke trim- a band of stone-colored pale shade, appliqued with circles of black crocheted material Miss Corelli, who is a very fair blonde; of the Venetian type of Italian, wears blue a great dea d also black, for she ltkes the sharp contrast between . her own fairness and somberness of ebony. Though popularly supposed to be an En- of London sre = and Lady glish girl, Miss Corelli is an- Itellan, and boasts that she is pure Venetian, with the light yellow tints and the bright blue of Venice. From these costumes it will be seen that he matinee girl has gone in upon a new ne of endeavor. Her principles used to be those of good materials, well appiied, with due regard for taste and style. She wanted to look neat and to be comforta bly and conveniently dressed. Her idea secure as mguch beauty as possible small a space as could be. She was a traveling exemplification of what could 3 in woman's dress in point of ress You surely remember When the neat lit- was the accepted theater hat, waist was of the sort tnat and when the skirt was ade so that it did mot injure it to be ked into an orchestra seat. Even the gloves had a utilitarian standpoint, for hey were selected in such a manner that nd the opera glass would y injure them. The New Matinee Girl. But the matinee girl of to-day is a pro- test aga that. She wears a splen- did hat which she removes at the theater. Ehe selects a waist of gorgeous and soft- in silk or lace. "Her skirt is though so clinging that it will theater chalr, and her small of the soft variety that Her gloves she removes are decorated with the jewels she can afford. essarily this calls for a very nice ybe and the matinee girl is busy getting up pretty toilets for herself. Some of them ¢an be worn to the play in the evening, and some, with certain changes, can be donned for the opera. So the mat- inee girl finds her hands full, since she n t provide for so many occasions. e very foundation of her good looks, ing from Dame Fashlop’s stand- point, is lace. Each week Sees some new kind of lace invented or the revival of some old lace. Now it is yak lace and thic ie used on silk and in all colors, the ne al lace or the dyed. Chunges in the ways of using lace con- stantly take place and sometimes these charges show a decided move toward something better. The latest fancy is for the lining of lace with chiffon and such a very decided improvement it is. Every kind of lace can be treated In this man- ner and there is no lace that ik not ben- cfited by it If you:would line lace with chiffon, as it is Gone by the best dressmakers, cut a strip of chiffon the width of the lace and lay the lace over it... Do not have tie chiffon wider than the lace nor _wille enough to project beyond the figures, Use precisely as though it were not lined. You will find that it makes the lace tougher, strengthens it so that it does not tear and pot only adds to the lagy effect, but actually prolongs the life of the lace. Another faney is for lining lace, first with chiffon and then with flowered tis- rue, put under in such a way that the fiowers show between the lacy figures. This requires a little art, but what nice thing can ‘be attained without some little handieraft. Plenty of Work to Dgy. The matinee ginp wilk find her hands full if she does her own dressmaking, for the lotest idea is for the applying of one fab- ric to another. You have chiffon under lace and gold. tissue under lace, and you have embroidered stitches over ‘the lace and a few jewels over the embroidery agar eu : .. ~rule, Perhaps, if she be a very kind- &nd, likely, a little silk underlay beneatk the whole, put.on in some way, he best gowns are a wonderful matter aof underlay and overlay and, when you lift ‘them in your hands you are struck with. the ntricacy of the whole, Indeed, the amateur dressmaker looks at the mass in a hopeléss gort of way, wondering bow and where she would go to work. to achieve anything like it. But, like.all wonders, the whole can be explained and, little by little, the.puzzle ~lace and the other trimmings are put on aver ‘and under the lace. The latter fis Teld firmly, elther in the hands or on dn achieved. A certain_very fine French -modiste siretches “her plece of lace upon ah old _ faghigned quilting frame. Then she works ~upon it, lining it and patching it, under- "~ Inying and applying roses to its sur- ‘face, ‘She claims that she can. work bet- _ter in this manney. - Others make up the .gown. and" then work upon. the .whole ‘wher -completed to get the effects. Gowns. grow more and more elaborate. The/ sweet simplicity which was prom- sed seems yet n fong way off. True, the shqulders and the yokes may be growing Jonger and smoother and the hips may be Dlude as though one were run into them. +But’ the modiste makes up this plainbess in her treatment of ‘the foot of " the skirt and its panels, and-in the mar- veloul manner 4n Which she elaborates ,thve'vqeé of the gown, the sleeves, stock 8. 3 All in Carnation’ Color. - The matinee girl -will- be largely the Color of a carnation, for the mode runs * toward Dpink, pinkish red, watermelon _Dink, - erushed - sirawberry, wild - ross, H .@g beauty tones, claret, w'ne eolo ‘and fndescribable the red the more hionable it is for theater wear. B ?Iq something about the red which, in ght light, makes it very attractivs. It {s'not faded In its tone, s so many of “‘"‘fihfi Colors are, and it brings out the “Ted. tintd" of. the cheeks and 1ips.” Red is ~a"dellghttul matinee color and it is no wonder that it.is popular, all the’ ‘way rom the faintest shell and~ pastel pink, dowr into- the-deptns of tne claret. 7 _The hat of the matinee girl might seem to. make no difference, yet it does play an important part. In New York she {s com- pelled to take off her hat under penalty of being' reminded by an usher; and - -+, BOBNY. ANOLHEr . city. is. the. same .(hing-in hearted girl, she will take it off without is solved. It all begins with a layet- af- ¢mbretdery frame, and so the results are ~ reminder and will also dress her hair low. The latter is a thing that is not expect- ed, however, and some of the. coiffures might ‘as well. be bats, for they are high and trimmed with aigrettes. A ‘very prominent soelety woman wore at Virginla' Harned’s new play the other ~evening an_elaborate coiffure wdich wds built with' ‘a very tall and.a vefy wide pompadour. The pompadour was allowed to fall-upon the forehead at ome side and in'the top there. was stuck a very large crepe ‘rose.’ The rose was pink and the coiffure black, and the result'was charm- ing. The matines girl gives first thought to Rer hat ang Maflr, End, th the selection of adornments for the latter, she selects natural flowers, crepe _and tisste _and “flaral ornaments of all kinds and aigrettes and- feathery-teimmings, Jeweled birds that dance: o, & spiral ‘arc enjoying a re- vival and the Jaweled bugs are more than ever In fashfon's midst. It fa’ ever 80 swell to take one’s old jew- €ls, @ turquolse; & pearl, a dlamond and & garnet and have them set In sdme kind of ‘a fancy jeweled feature for the hair. 1 - Dressing the Neck. Buf ‘more interesting’ than that is .the ‘chath ‘which {3 worn around the nack. This is now sq universal that at & fashionable jemblage you scarcely see a woman without her necklace. Often & very slender thread of gold will support a very pratty little pendant which is made in some unique way, after & spe- clal design of the wearer, One can t one’'s own jewels and@ mock jéwels set very Inexpensively, and it is well worth one’s while to do thifs, for such nice little pat come this season in the pendant line. Upon the shoulderette does the matines girl depenid for a great deal of her style, and in they making of this do the modistes excel. THe mode comes from Parls, whers the couterieres are building a shoulderette with every gown. Very small are some of the shoulder- ettes, no desper than the tip of the shoulder, and net long, either in front or back, though most of them boast the stole ends in the front. The materials are thiffon over a foun- dation of crepe de chine, for these goods seem so0 well gdapted to the garment. You can make a shoulderette of crepe de chine and trim it with a applique of Irjsh lagé, put. on in a wandering manner around the middle part of the cape, be- tween the shoulder and neck. The lesd “set’” the design the better. Around’ the bdrder of this shoulderette you can use & trimming of taffeta, which can be looped or draped and foided, with the edge of the taffeta trimmed with a border of knife plaited chiffon and lace, with a flounce of lace underlying the whole. Then & tall eollar is trimmed with knife plaiting and lace and the shoulder- ette s complete. Your motif can be pink or blick, or yeu can go into light green and yellow brown. ‘There are many possibilities In the coldr line, working always with black or white as a foundation. - The very .wide boa-of silk muslin ruffles upon a crinoline foundation holds its own -~ 884 matines decordtion, and the fur boas are’lovély though: a trifle expensive. ‘What It Costs to Dress. The-cost plays a very little part in the dress_ of the season. It 18 fabulously large, yet woman does not seem-to mind it. The fact-that she pays three or four times as much for a gown as she paid two seasons ago does not fease her at all, and she goes. on buying’ and wearing '‘and wearing. One of the strange contradictions In ma- terial of.the season was seen in a collar of gray fur shoulder deep. It was trimmed with einbrolderéd bands of silk. Another fancy was & hoa of chiffon Wwith fur tails caught in with s heavy fringe finishing the ends. Upon her walst the matines girl sxpends her enefgies. She must have something pretty and she will go to-any extreme of hard work to get it. The:fad for-trimming with ‘lace inser- tion, cutting out the material underneath, is @ growing one. ' But there is a new way of dolng-it. The lace 1s lined with #ilk of the sapre color, which is appligued to the gown, doing away with the neces- sity of cutting the cloth away. This is a Very nice mode and one that can be used in all cases where the transparent ¢ffecd is no desideratum. The matinee wallt has its combination of stuffs. One of these was In a very hairy zibeline trimmed 'with _stitched bands of taffeta with tancolored lace. It was part of a taflored suit. Another_very handsome matines bodiee was 3 serge, trimmed with sain cloth and with lace, the late being linefl with chif- fon and -trimmed with a-few Jrilliant moele- gems. The fact that rough goodsiare used in the making of dress walsts ! opens up & new possibility for these walsts, for you can do a great deal more when y¢u have several muatertals o WOrK ‘upon. Mary Mannering has an ornamend which she wears upon a pink bodice. I8 is a lily all made of jets, and beautiful it is with its jetted leaves around it. The jet rose is another pretty ornament for the woman, be she matines girl or other- wise; and the little gariand of jet roses s charmingly brilliant in the evening around the neck of a decollete bodice. Let the jetted yoses be small and ar< range them so that they almost touch, lying side by side in & very prderly man- ner. A fan of jet and a dog Gollar of jet add to the pretty whole Nice Little Theater Sets. 5 For_ the theater many are the nice lite tle things one can choose: There are special designs ‘which come for fans, fom stock, for belt and for hair ornamant. These can be carried out in white or in a color. One was very delicate in white chiffon with turquoise, the ene miotif ane imating the whole four pleces which made up the set. In & matinee or theater costime one can say, in all truth, that the small things make up the whole. With & very nice, well fitted skirt, and & very nice wais§, perfectly plain, one can 40 every- thing with the suitable trimmings oF be~ longings of dress. A new note in fashion’s world i» seund. ed In the trimmings which are just ap- pearing. All sorts of goods are now used In the trimmings of evening dresses one of the latest being fur. White fur and light gray fur are used for hat facings and for the edging of the neck of the gown. fluch pretty effects are produced by the taking of a band of silk and edging ft with fur, Fur is also used in conmection with little ruchings of chiffon, and the two make a very nice trimming for the collaretts and for the hat and for the skirt of the gown. In the matter of brightness thers cam be any amount of leeway and tasts ean Tun riot, for the brighter the better; Pro= viding the laws of color be observed. One of the prettiest Washington gowns was in pale green cloth trimmed with cream color, with pipings of & rather bright shade of Russian blue velvet. These were put on in little folds and in cordings, the whole suit being profusely trimmed with them. The hat was & com-~ posite of all of these, showing every coles in its trimming. Lovely large neck ruffiea, combining fus and chiffon, are thrown around the neck, and there are the most marvelous produc- tions, In which tassels, talls, chiffon and jet seem all mingled in one bandsome and becoming conglomerate, The New Capes. Many of the handsomest women are wearing the cape without regard for the fdct that' the cape conceals the figure. They wear it always wisely and well, and it certainly does become them. One of these capes was madd of lace, over it fell another lace cape; and over this a third, and, finally, a fourth. They were, ail .of different lengths and they dressed up the shoulders charmingly..At each side, just below the shoulder line, and a little toward the fromt, there was a great flat rosette of silk. The cape came down to & long point In the back and was sloped up quite. s little in the front, reminding ome, In & way, of a shawl In selecting a bodice for. theater wear one must take account of the lights. Shades that look very well in the day will not do at all when subjected to bril~ liant glare. And very often the colors that give one a roseats hue by sunlight make one positively ghastly at night. Thergfore, the wise woman will. take care!