The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 7, 1902, Page 11

11 N no domain has modern art brought about such varied changes and such exceilent ones as In the jeweler's art. There has been not only a transfor- tion of decoration, as in clothing, nce, but a decided revolution in idea of jewelry of all kinds and er fllustrate the idea, think of hat jewelry was even a century ago. Then thinkofites it is to-day. Then it was nd simply the stones themselves. e attention was paid to the set- ting as long as the stones were shown oft he best advantage. 1f a diamond was of fine water, that in itself constituted a fine plece of jewelry. If a pearl neck- lace were made of pearis, each one cost- a small fortune, who stopped long enough to consider the setting for a sin- gle instant? Not a single soul. That was the idea of the rich but ex- tremely inartistic plece of jeweiry. Modern art is leading an army of learn- this narrow fancy of has swept full force into the domain of feminine attire and up a huge sign which, while thy, means a great deal. It may be rich, but you must hose who have color schemes and airy designs at their finger Uips say e sign was meant to read just the other way— U must be artistic, but ng in modern jewel setting is v different as day is from night. Now the setting, the manner in which the stones are grouped, has become of even more consequence than the gems them- selves, And better still, stones, charming i themselves but not costly enough for & splendid piece of jewelry, have con- veniently come into fashion again. The opal, with its various lights, dart- ing here and there like tongues of fire; the light or dark amethyst, the ever use- ful and dainty turquoise, not to mention the beryl, garnet and a host of different colored stones in just about the same cless, have offered to an artisu ind a variety, a scale of color, i d for its ides Al he taste and the choice of the one makes the jewelry. A rich stone be set with worse than abominable while an obscure one may be ex- ely artistic, dreamed of such a plain fact a ? Absolutely no one. The se of jewels was all that Now the value is quite but there has been added the variable value of an object of 1l paintings and exquisite bits of marble have long been collected and ex- in splendid salons. That much expected and the pleasure derived of thousands of visitors Yet it took a M. Lalique, , to conceive the idea of hav- of beautiful, artistic and Jjewelry that would rank and statues. His subjects r objects to the lovers of the 4 as rare bits of art have been famous salons in- Pari eiry thera is a delightful diversity of form. Some are quite geo- m ical in shape, le others are scrolls taken from the Byzantine styles. Again there are graceful flowers so very like nature that one expects them to exhale their natural freshness and sweetness. Right next to the sumptuous orchid are heavy buckles, great clanking bracelets that might serve as chains, and beits that would easily pinion one to the wall for long, weary hours. But everywhere the forms and designs are the work of a man artistically in- clined. Everywhere his hand is evident, end now things of real beuty are being created that depend mot one whit on the alue of the stones that are used as a setting. But don’t imagine that the value of a diamond or a ruby has nothing to do with it. Naturally the richer the setting, the richer the ornament. Just at present the pearl is the most popular stone that money can buy, and e near future money will not pur- ny as it might fancy. There me when a diamond necklace was ught just about the best thing imag- but while it is swell, glittery and to gaze upon, it cannot commence Lo compare with the modest, retiring strand of pearls loosely twisted about the throat and permitted to fall almost to the top of a low waist. Such a necklace is quietiy elegant and you may be sure that the girl who is wise enough to choose pearls In- stead of diamonds is a thorough aristo- crat. A swell collarette is composed of twelve strands of pearls. They are quite close together and are held in an upright posi- tion by @ bar of twelve dlamonds set in piatinum. It is simply swagger when eficircling the throat of a stunning girl. Such a strand is by no means common, as it is bought to the tune of $5000, and, o* course, one must be frocked accord- ingly, or else the effect is entirely ruined. By the way, did you know that all cost- Iy jewelry has @ bit of platinum about it these days? Well, it has. All diamonds end brilliants should be set in that metal. The name certainly does not sound as glittering as gold, but it is whiter and harder, which makes it just twice as good a background for diamonds than gold could ever hope to be. To the un- initiated jt may have a cheap sound, but bewsare when you want to purchase it. It is the most precions of all metals. For the girl who is artistic and who would appear fetching on a slim pocket- sy .S, TiAMONDS Arto FPLATINUVM has It is a great sprawly thing that winds about as though to satisfy its own book the pearl scroll been tamely created. curiosity. The pearls graduate in size, according to their place. When worn on a broad black velvet band it is quite as splendid in appearance as any one but a pampered mlu!onnlre could possibly de- sire. The girl who is light, who is airy and fluffy in her attire, the la valliere has been made. It varies according to one's taste, yet it is always dainty and fragile looking. A dainty one has a square oli- vine in the center. On either side are two pearls, and running about the stones is a fantastical scroll of diamonds. Hang- ing from a wee diamond chain of some two or three stones is a single pearl. This exquisite plaything is suspended .about the throat by a slender gold chain, which boasts of a small bar of d.hnflndl for an appropriate clasp. These little witcherles are by no means ckeap, yet they are as the dno—mflnu compared to the diamonds. Pins of all classes ar@smuch worn, hom the simple llt!h tickpin, which costs a o i | JEWELRY [ROM SHREVES, (. Posef by Pearl Euba | Phojg o lp' Sm)mrd BUCKLE tn(fal ‘lmmftr'vz vdio LA VALLIERE cx..?tru-u& 3] DLAV( ongj ~., ¥ triffe, to the brooch which mounts Into the hundreds. A novel pin is made of two bowknots of diamonds swung apart by a diamond strand and still further kept that way by huge baroque pearl. The heart of both bows is a single olivine. From this light green stone, much like an emerald, hangs the quaintest kind of rope chain, the links " formed of fair-sized diamonds. These ropes are loosely knotted together, and the ends, which fly freely, are ba- roques. It is one of the nobblest pins that has been on the market for a long time. Everybody, by the way, may not fully undélptand the difference between an ordinary pearl and a baroque, yet the differende is great. Pearls are called pearls wheh they are round, or nearly so, and when-they appear to be of the same substance but are very umeven and odd in shape they are called baroques. A per- fect pearl the size of most baroques used would cost a small fortune. These odd shaped pearls are used In a variety of ways, but perhaps the most unique is the cuff button. Gold links held in place by great baroques are as pretty, as novel and as new as any one, even the most fastidious, could desire. Belt, buckles are. quite as much sity a8 an ornament. neces- Nevertheless, they RAGE could be a trifle simpler and not cost quite as much and still serve the purpose exactly as well. This buckle is made to represent a buckle, but it has a few fancy circles that are distinctly ornamental and that were meant as s The buckle part is a snare and a delusion, as the ribbon does not pass through it, but is sewed to a plain band of gold provided for the very purpose. Pearls that are used in buckles and the lke are split ones, which reduces the price of the article materially. Crescents and half moons are great fa- vorites with everybody, particularly with these who wear lace frequently. They are grail and dainty and look as though they were mnade to nestle in the soft folds. Peal hearts are another fad and a pretty one as well. Diamonds were first made into blazing hearts, and then the two stones were combined, but now the heart of pearls {s more often seen and mere universally admired Beautiful rings are made of pearls and diamonds. ly pleasing has three pearls as centers and a cluster of diamonds encireling each one. The dia- monds, of course, meet and the circle biends into one large flame of fire. Itis a rich ring and a costly one as well The pearl, like the opal, been under a ban for years. To most people its white- ness and its purity signifies sickness, sor- row and distress, just as the opal brings all kinds of evil to one who is not Octo~ ber’s child. But the age of superstition Is fast fad- ing away and with it all the foolish ideas that held their bellevers im such a vise. The girl who would not aceept a strand. of pearls now would be accounted little less than demented. Jewelry we have, and beautiful at that. But after all the essential (hlng is that work is being done, taste purified and we know that we witness more and more per- fect realizations of the artists’ concep=- tions. This new field of is such a broad one that even the most varied tem- peraments should find a means of express- fog themselv Modern jewelry has come to stay and its stay will certainly be & prolonged one, Proper Care of Rugs. The average young housewife wears out her rugs by continual sweeping and beat- ing. The plan of putting them upon a line every two weeks, or even once a month, and then having them whipped, is not to be commended, if ihe rugs are of any value. They should be cleaned with & carpet sweeper, occasionally put upen & line and brusheéd, and once a year sent away to be cleaned in a proper manner, or else washed at home. The best way of cleaning the smaller, coarser rugs upon the line is to use a& stiff barn broom, and to brush the rug in the direction in which the nap les, never in the opposite direction, as this destroyw the lustre. Oriental rugs are all made with the knot bent in one direction, 5o that the nap lies all one way. When a rug is to be thoroughly cleaned it should be sent where the work is prop= erly done. A machine is now in use which loosens the dust and removes it by means of a strong current of air. This is effect- tve, and not hard upon the rug. When the surface becomes solled it can be of injuring the col- of Oriental rugs before reaching used are there- washed with no fear ors, since the majority are washed repeatedly this country, and the d by mellowed and enriched. The best method of washing a large rug is to stretch and tack it upon a clean floor, then scour it well with soap suds. After the scouring it_must be thoroughly in order to remove all trace of the the soap, after which it should be left in the same position to dry, and the tae hould not be removed un- til it is perfectly dried. If this is done the rug will not shrink, and will lie per- fectly flat upon the floor. A small rug may be tacked upon the side of the house or barn, scoured as if upon a floor, and then rinsed. with the hose. This is the best manner of rinsing, and approaches most nearly the true Ori- ental method for thoroughness. The Ori- entals wash their rugs with soap and wa- ter, after which they take them to & river or stream and rinse them. A crease or ridge will sometimes be seen in an Oriental rug, which looks i an imperfection in the weaving. This is almost invariably the result of the rug bhaving been folded before it was suffi- clently dry. rinsed, animal matter i This Sunday’s Call completes Frank Norris’ great American novel, “The Octopus.” Gét The Sunday Calls of November 9, 16, 23, 30 and December 7 (five cents each) and you have the complete novel—the nearest approach to the “Great American Novel” ever written. I For full announcement of |, cur innovation in shortstories complete in each issue of The | Sunday Call see another part of the Magazine Section. The magnificent Christmas I Edition of The Sunday Call will appear next Sunday. Don’t miss it! GREATEST FEALURE EDI- | TION EVER PUBLISHED. The “Gospel of Judas Is- csriot” begins next Sunday— a story that is the religious sensation of the year.