The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 7, 1902, Page 10

HE coiffure which the Duchess of Manchester wore at a theater party honor of the christening of hester heir is still the talk of London soclety. The boy had been named Alexander, and the gracious Queen had consented to gvard him through his immature life, and then came the festivities, The Duchess, young, beautiful as ever, exquisitely dressed and groomed until she seemed a miracle of feminine grace, sat in 2 box adjoining the royal one. In the back hovered the Duke, & sable back- ground for the richness of the robes of his Duchess. But it was not upon the Duke, nor upon the ducal party, nor yet upon the royal box itself, that the attention of the audi- ence was bent; but upon the Duchess. And particularly upon the ornament which she wore in her hair., This was a chimmering thing of green and pearis— emeralds w The whole and a creamy background. was shaped in oval fashion t from a chain right read of the Duchess, Her was dressed high, was waved 1 2 generous wave was pulled middle. Over this were down in the slipped the chain of gold and the orna- roent of emeralds. The Duchess, who could take little part in the c ion two months ago, and who was deprived of the honor of assist- ing the Queen, was thus rewarded for her deprivation. In the old church the Queen bhad “stood” for the child, and before all London the christening party had ap- peared at the theater, while all eyes were bent upon the Duchess and upon the coif- fure which surmounted her pretty head. Surely there are recompensatory mo- ments. Banding the Forehead. Fashions in hairdressing take queer and quick moves, and this year there is a law that says that the hair must be done in very elaborate ways. The back is ar- ranged with combs, the top with flowers and aigrettes and with bows and pins. And, now, it is the forehead which must be dressed. Woman, busy though she is, has been compelled to consider the adorning of the neck, the wrists, the instep and the ears. But until lately the forehead escaped at- tention. A few stray hairs were curled upon it, or that which was already a low pompadour was coaxed to lie still lower, But this season the forehead will be dis- tinctly dressed, and not carelessly, either, but in & certain and very definite way. It will be conspicuously adorned and you will see its decoration from afar. It ‘was a beautiful Washington belle who dressed her shoulders low and placed ® wreath of roses over each shoulder strap. Then she colled her hair way down or her nmeck. And over the top of her head she placed a narrow strap of white A FANCY \ HEAD-DERESS 5 ribbon. The hair, which was parted in a Cleo de Merode style, was brushed down each side in such a plain-and simple way that both ears were covered. There was not the suspicion of a wave in the halr. Across the forehead there was banded a strap of white ribbon and over each ear, just where the ribbons met, there was sentineled & white rose. This white rose, standing guard .over each ear, coming at each side of the head, low and a little front, made a charming ornament. . And sq did the strao of rib- bon across the forehead, which was the feature of the coiffure. As Though She Wore a €rown. Any forehead lo6ks well banded in thix manner, and the plainest girl is assisted by.it. Take such a band and wind it around your head, pin another piece over the top of your head and secure the whole with a rose at each side and you will see yourself most charmingly - coif- fured. 2 There are many women who cling to the low pompadour and, really, they are not to be blamed for that. The low pompadour, drawn so far down that it conceals any littie {rregularities in the forehead, is universally becoming. For the girl who wants to. wear her bair this way there are very nice pos- sibilities and one of these is seen in the princess halr dressing. The girl who assumes this style must carry bher head high, as though she wore a crown. She must puff her hair over each ear and make it full at each side of the head. There is to be a puff on the forehead and the top is also to be very full Across the front there is a little band of ribbon, which is carried from side to side, and at the end of the "band, at each side, there is set a little bunch of winter chrysanthemums. To do this colf- fure correctly place the bunch of ¢hrys- anthemums first in'the hair and then con- nect them with a narrow strap of ribbon. Use for the ribbon any color that matehes the style of hair. With golden hair use = pale yellow, and with brunette hair use pink or scarlet, and the chrysanthemums will look very nice with either color. Dressing the forehead offers such pos- sibilities that the girl'who wishes to study the subject will find not only a wide field for study, but also a very nice reward for ' her.trouble. She will certainly get good results from such attentio as she may Pay to her foreshead treatment. ' _ There s in Washington a soctety girl who is driving other girls wild with envy over her originality. It is not so much in her gowns as in her hair dressing. She knows how to make; herself look always ., Pérhaps this 15 why bair dressing fash- lons change, so that woman can always make. herself look different. Varlety is /the spice of "good.looks surely: . The Style in Washington. . This. girl, who is a friend of the Baro- x CEOCK ! At o .,:‘_,A Xom A AN »wae 8 \ BANDING THE. FOREHEAD YWITH ASTRAP OF, RIBBON ness Hengelmuller and of the Countess Cassini, now wears her front hair over a round pompadour roll. The hair is built very high, with the roll beginning at each ear. By some miracle the whole is kept rhther oval in form, though there is a wide frame of hair all around the face. P HEAD - DRESS PINNER__ |, ’ 5 In the middle of the pompadour therei 18 pulled out a great lock of hair, and this is curled An such a manner that the curl comes down ,to the very eyebrows. The lock is-very long, but is laid in a tight, hard curl right In the middle of the forehcad, where it is so wide that it half-conceals that feature. - There was a little girl who had a little curl right In the mfidle of her forehead, as you know. But this particular little ‘Washington girl has a big curl, and it covers up nearly the whole of her fore- head. It 1s the same idea differently ex- ecuted. 5 ‘Woman's inhumanity to woman is mak- ing countless thousands mourn. Just now the inhumanity is in the form of a very severe vogue which a certain few are try- ing to introduce. Mrs. James G. Blaine Jr. is pretty enough to wear it, but there are others who are not. This trying coiffure is nothing more than the . old-fashioned ‘“‘water” wave. The halr is pylled down on the forehead with a comb until it lies in stiff waves around the face. Anything less becoming could’ hardly” be imagined, wunless you happen to have a face without a flaw: Miss Helen Gould, who is looking re- markably pretty these days in a suit of navy. blue with black strappings and black brald, wears her brunette hair in a curiously becoming manner. Helen Gould’s Glossy Hair. Miss Gould, who is very fastidious, has her hair shampooed until it glistens. The hair is then waved from the roots to the very ends. There is a natural wave In her hair, which is accentuated by the tongs. The hair is then parted in the middle of the head, across the crown. The front is thrown up in pompadour fashion, with wisps curling over the face, looking as though they had blown there. The back is twisted low and loose, so that the ‘waves show in the coil. A New York woman who dresses in fine taste wore at a headdress dinner the other evening a coiffure which may be- come the fad, for it was so youth-produc- ing® The hair, which was treated to some brilliant polish, was parted in the middle. It was draped down each side of the face. At the back it was bralded and turned up in schoolgirl fashion. The braids were twice as wide as your hand, and they were looped as broadly as pos- sible ana fastened with a big fat how ef satin ribbon. The bow was drawn through & rhinestone buckle. Petite women "could follew this style to advantage. Part the hair, wave It elightly, braid it in two wide plaits, three or four or flve strands in each, and loop them at the back of the -neck, with the loopings very shert rather than long. Ar- tificial bralds look better than could ene’s own hair. There is a tendency to make the hair conform to the season—in June the rose, in autumn the chrysanthemum, at Christ- mas the holly. They take holly now and stand it up- right in the hair, as though it were an algrette. The holly is tied In & stiff lit- tle sprig, and is fastened back of the pompadour or in the top of it. The prickly leaves, and the gorgeous red ber- ;!es make & Very nice ornament for the air. The holly wreath is also seen in the coiffures of the season. This is & wreath of the leaves trained to lié around the knot at the back of the neck. The wreath should be a very slender ore, and it should be twisted around the knot and fasten- ed with pins invisibly rather than con- spicucusly. The effect is a pretty art- lessness. Women who can wear an ornament over the ears are taking bunches of hol: lyberries, with a leaf or two and placing them so that the berries come. just back of the ear lobes. There is something al-, most Oriental in this effect and sugges- tive of the hairdressing of the Mikado. Mrs. Robert Collier’s Way. Mrs. Robert Colller (formerly Van Alen) has the honor of having originated a coif- fure. The hair is parted In the middle and drawn down over both ears. The pecu- liarity of this is that the hair is draped in such a manner as to preserve theoval of the face. If the face be without an oval it creates one. This style Is vety necessary to the Dutch matrons. of whom New York boasts, and it becomes well all of those who have wide faces.. Sut 1t looks best of all upon the girl of spirituelle type, rather long of nose and with sweet features. To finish this coiffure there must be a little chain caught a-ound the head and a small ornament must be hung upon this chain. 4 In selecting the ornament be sure to get one that will lle flat upon the fore- head, not a locket with a tendency to turn over. : The French make a pendant which has eyelets at each side, through which the chain is hooked This when fastened upon the forehead must remain im- movable. The same can be done with a ribbon. Mrs. Howard Gould has also a coif- fure of her own. There is a strapping of roses in the hair, while from the mid- dle hang a few roses in a soft spray, coming right down from the pompadour and over the forehead, where they are fastened by a few locks of waved h The hair is separated at the side, and roses have a curiously classic look they fall in their studied disorder. This may be called the season of wom- an’s. emancipation in dress. Long com- pelled to dress as others wanted her to dress, she now dresses to suit herseif.