The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 7, 1902, Page 14

| The grown-up woman with 2 family now turns herself into a sort of Santa Claus to | manufacture pretty surprises | for the home circle on Christ- | mas day—The fancy for Irish lace and the fad for making it | ~—Pretty hints in home-made gifts. -— o HE Christmas gift is a distinct lea- ure In a woman's life Her year, which begins with the New Year call, is rounded up by the visit of Santa Claus. To him she fe de very the gift which her friends. presents for s she has prepar: And from a Claus she hopes to_re- celve whatever the good old gentleman, in his wisdom, may see fit to bring her. It i what the vulgar and worldly mind- ed call a game of give-ana-take. Lut to the woman of proper sentiment it is an occasion wholly charming and opportune for the expression of the good will which she bears her friends. X The making, then, of the Chriftmas gift is & thing which gives the woman Of sen- timent the greatest delight. In the delf cate stitches she weaves pieasant fancies of the joy which her friends will experi- ence when they receive the work of her bands. the women of deep affections it is a id thing to buy a Christmas presefit out- right, It is much more in keeping with the spirit of the Yule to purchase the ma- als and make 2 little gift with loving The gift should be partly done by partly by heart, and the whole 1d be so Interwoven with friendship the article will show it in every line and stitch. s made Christmas gift is cood es it lasts. It does not go out of must be so arranged that it will be serviceable while a thread of it re- mains; and always it must bear the out- ward visib ark of love and Christmas! A grezt many laces can be made at home, but the showiest and, perhaps, the easiest Is Irish lace. A Piece of Handwork. For some months past Irish as long styie lace has enj the greatest favor, and it does not seem 1o be losing in popularity as the months rcll by. It i85, anything, more populur now than ever before. While Irish lace is a crocheted lace, it fias many peculiarities and intricacles which make it as different from ordinary crochet lace as it is superior to it. "It is as far gsbove the mors common crochet lace as resl Point de Venice is above the modern Battenberg lace. The Irisk crochet lace was invented by a2 French woman, Mademoiselle Riego, who was an authority on all branches of needlework. This lady, while trying to fmitate witk the crochet a certain kind of Spanish point lace, discovered this novel way of lace making. She spent considerable time, improving, @evelop'ng and designing new patterns in this ncw line of lace making. She gave She resuit of ber efforts in two books, published * many years apart, containing instrucuons -and pgtterns. Both books have bren out of print for a long time. On account, probably. of the diffcul- tics in deseribing this lace minutely, fancy-work articles bave seldom attempt- ed 1o irtroduce patterns, but considering the wide popularity of the lace, it is but justice to the readers that they should be taught how to make it. With patience any -one can make this lace nicely, while very few dndeed “can afford to buy it. The ‘ace is always com- posed of separate figures or patterns, each made separately, then joinéd by a lacy background which is the one most characteristic feature of Irish lace. The background is generally made of chains of seven, eight or nine stitches, of which three, four or five are made in a locp or picot, then two more chains are made, and these picoted chains are con- nected together, and the solid patterns by a treble, a double, or a single, as may be found necessary. The padded ring is another essential fea- ture of lrish lace, as well as the stem which is attached to a great many of thé patterns. = Another feature is that the work in the solid patterns is done mostiy in single ;and double, croehet, the treble being used but seldom. 1n a grapevine the leaves are all made first, and glso the small wheeis, and when the desired number of leaves'and wheels ha#, been completed, the background Is worked. " How to Make the Leaves. First"Wind your thréad twenty times around a“small lead pencil, slip’off and hold between the thumb and forefinger of left hand and-crochet thirty doubles in the ring; then make a slip stitch on the upper part of each'gouble. . Now work another Tew of doubles, tak- ing only the back loop’of the first dou- Lles made, and-managing to ‘work thirty- . \six doubles: over the thirty doubles of the previcus row, thus: Work one double in each of four doubles and two doubles in fifth; one double in each of four fiext and two in following, and so on, all around; you will have thirty-six doubles aroun-i the ring; now begin working the divisions in the lcaf. Chain thirteen; make on= treble on sixth chain from needje; chain three, miss three, one treble o next; chain three, oné double on double in ring. Turn, four doublés under last three chain made, four doubles under next three. chain; thirtéen doubles under upper loop of five chain; four doubles under next three chain and four doubles under last loap of three chain; turn, Now make one double on each double around this first division, taking only the “back loop of stitch, and make three dou- bles on’ Fing. The second section of the leaf is worked like the first, but when making the last row of doubles the second division must be connected Wwith ‘the first by the mrst nine doubles. To do this you hold the first section and ‘the last-made against each other with your thumb and forefin- ger of left hand and insert your needle in back of loop of corresponding doubids of each division and work nine doubies in this way; then you do not connect any more, but continue making one double on each double of second division. Then make three doubles on the ring; cham thirteen for the third section, which Is made exactly like the second one. ‘When the third division is complete you meke two doubles on the ring, then slip stitch along the nine last made doubles of the third section; now chain nine; make one treble on sixth stitch from néedle; chain three, fasten with a single stitch on the last of nine slip-stitch and turn; make S ;" S 7 7 @ /" 4 four doubles under three chath, thirteen doubles under loop and four doubles un- der next 106p of three chain; fasten with singlé stitch and turn. Make one double on each double around this fourth division, and make again one slip-stitch on each of the nine slip-stitches made previously; make one.double on ring and chain thirteen to begin the fifth sec- tion, The fifth, sixth and seventh sections are exactly similar to the third, second and first respectively. After working the severith division, make four doubles'on ring, then chain thirty, for the stem; turn, and make one doutle on each of the thirty chains; make five or six doubles on ring, to reach the. first division. Now, on the first double of. - this section, make one double; on the two following doubles make two half trebles, and one treble on each of the following doubles around this section, excepting the two last ones, on which you rfake one- half treble and one double respectively. On the upper part of second division, make one double on first double, one half treble on next, one trebie on each of -the following double except the two last, on which you make one half treble and one double respectively. # ool Do thé same on each remaining sectit after finishing the seventh section, maks four slip stitches on ring; then thirty-five doubles over thirty doubles of stem; turn with slip stitch around-baserof stem; 8lip* stitch also in gvery stitch of the inside curve till you reach again the ring. Without breaking:your, thread you_begin the lacy packgroufid (see illustration of the two leaves joined). Starting between the stem and first section, chain seven, . picot five of them, treble on fifth stitch of stem (inner curve); chain seven (picot), chain two, treble on fifth stitch of first section; chain five, treble on stem on fifth stitch below treble previously made; chain one, miss two stitcnes of stem and treble on mext; chain seven (picot), chain two, treble in chain five previously made; chain seven (picot), treble on first section, on fifth stitch from last treble; chain two, miss thrée on first section, treble on next; YA chain five, treble on picoted chain of pre- vious row; chain seven (picot), chain two, treble . on ' followtng picot chain, chain seven (picot), chaln. two, one single on stem five stitches below last - treblé; chain seven (picot), chain two, sin- gle on last stitch of stem; chain seven (picot), chain two, trebie on picoted chain Which was made just after chain five; chain seven (picot) chain sfx (picot), chain two, treble on chain five; chain seven (picot), chain two. Now, break your thread, leaving about oné-half ‘yard of thread, which is to be used tu finish connectnig with the small whesl, later on. Make another leaf like the one just made (or as many as you desire to make), always making this part of the lacy background before breaking the thread. For the small wheel make twelve chaing and join; fili it with twenty-four doubles, Join; .+ chain six, miss three, double op the next: repeat five times more; fill each loop of six chains with three doubles, ope picot, three doubles, one picot, three doubles. ~ After making the sixth, slip stitch ur to the first picot of first small section and (here the lacework begins again) chain seven (picot), chain two, fasten with a double on sixteenth stitch of outward curve of stem; chain one, miss one, of stem, double on next; chain seven “¢picot), chain two, fasten onm fol- lowing picot of small wheel; chain two, fasten in next picot of wheel; chain seven (picot), . chain two, . treble on seventh stitch of stem, counting from ° the ring; treble on fourth stitch of seventh section of leaf; chain seven (pi- cot), ckain two, fasten on next picot of N\ W] ; chain seven (plcot), chain two, ible on last section of leaf on sixth stitch from treble; chain one, miss ome, double on next; chain seven (plcot), chain two, fasten in next picot of wheel; chain seven (picot), chain two, treble on an- other ‘leaf, on third stitch from the last treble made on it; chain seven (picot), single on seventh section of first leaf on third stitch from last single, chain one, miss coe, single on next; chain seven (pi- cot}, chain two, treble under treble which connects with the other leaf; chain seven (plcot), chain two, treble on second sec- tion of second leaf; chain two, treble on chain two, second section of same leaf: chaln seven (picot), chain two, treble under picoted chain parting from first leaf; chain two, fasten on last division of first leaf; break thread and fasten securély. Now, with the half thread left, finish the connection of second leaf with the lttle wheel. Fasten with a :double on picoted chaln that was made just before making treble which connects little wheel with ‘second leaf; make another double on same vicoted chain, close to first double; chain seven (picot), chain two. fasten in the next picot of wheel; chain two, fasten in next picot of Wheel: chain two, fasten between two picots which are on a single chain, chain two: treble in next picot of wheel; chain seven (picot). chain two, treble; in next plcot,, chain seven (picot), treble under picoted chain started from end‘df stem of sécond leaf; ‘chain, five, fasten on énd of stem, on the outward_curve side. Break thréad and fasten Securely. . All the leaves and wheels necessary for the length of lace desired must be joined together in this fashion first; then the upper and lower edge is worked after- ward. i _ Now for the border on the straight edgs of lace, begin with one treble in-picot of small wheél (into which ;a tréble has al- ready been worRed When connecting the leaves), chain seven (picot), two chain, single in néxt picot of wheel; chain seven, picot, one chain, single in next picot of wheel chain ‘two, single in next picot: chein seven, picot, chain two, treble in plcot'(of chain connecting middle of stem with first picot of little wheel); chaln seven (picot), chaln two, treble on stem (see illustration), seven chain (Picot), treble on step, chain seven crAPE EEAF LACE (picot), chain two, treble in chain at end of stem; chain seven (picot), chain two, treble on following picoted chain; chain saven (picot), chain two, treble in picot of wheel, * repeat from * to * as many times as you have‘leaves in your lace. ‘Without breaking thread work around the pointed part cf leaves, as follows: ¢ one treble under chain two (connecting leaves together); chain two, treble under next chain two, near next leaf, chain two; tre- ble on second division of leaf; chain sev- en (picot), chain two, miss four stitches of second division, treble on next; chain seven, picot, chain two, treble on third divisicn, chain seven, picot, ehain two. treble on same division; chain seven, picot; chain two, freble on fourth: division; chain sevem, plcot, chain - six, picot, chain two, treble on upper point of same diviston: chain seven, picot, chain six, pitot, chain two, miss five stitches, treble on same dlvis- fon; chain seven, picot, chain two, treble on fifth divisi in seven, picot, chain two, miss four, treble on same division; chain seven, picot, chain two, treble on sixth section; chain seven, picot, chain two, miss five, treble on same division; chain two, treble under chain two. * from * to * around the lower point of each leat. Work around end as seen on the illustration and on the straight edge work a row of * 7 chain, picot, chain 2, treble In chain of preceding row all along. When reaching again around the under pointed leaves work thus: * Treble chain 2 of preceding row, miss 1, 2, make treble under next; chain 5, under next picoted chain; chain 5, under next chain, chain 5; treble under next chain;’ chain 5, treble under next chain; chain §, treble between 2 picots of next chain; chain 5, treble under sam chain, just before treble of preceding row; chain 5, treble on next chain, just on other side of treble; chain 5, treble under chain between 3 picots; chain §, treble under next chain; chain 5, treble under next chain; chain 5, treble under next chain; chain 3, treble under next chain; chain 3, treble under chain 2 * and repeat from * to * all along the pointed edge. Reaching again the straight edge, make 1 double in every stitch until you reach again the pointed edge. Make 2 doubles under 3 chains and 2 doubleés under next 3 chains; 5 doubles under next § chains, 1 double on treble; chain 5, turn and fas er on fifth double from last made; flll the Icop with *, 2 doubles, 1 pieot of 3 chain, 1 double, 1 picot, 1 double, 1 picot, 3 | doubles, ®. ¥rom - to * makes one little scallop; 3 are made on each side and one at point of each large scallop. When thig edging is completed, finish the straigni edge with * chain 1, miss 1, treble oa next, all along. This beautiful lace is sultable for many yumrm, n::i w:mlfi] reu.lil at 38 to 312 a i accordin, o val iy g e value of real Irish As to the dofly, any woman ea: it by merely looking at a plcturs: ;x:... But the doily suggestion is orth what it is worth. b Lo