Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, April 4, 1909, Page 56

Waists for Spring Tailored and Semi-Tailored Models of Various Mate- rials—Long, Close-Fitting Sleeves, Shaped Collar and Narrow Shoulders the Future in Waists Styles. HEE offerings for spring in the walst line include a large number of novelties that are at present considered too high QU class for general popularity. The popular styles in walsts consist of the strictly tailored model In mannish shirt-like style, the semi‘tailored, which 1s at once very dainty and practical, Wnd & few fancy numbers, which are made of Iingerle material, net and silk. With the two-plece tallored suit nothing looks as natty as the tallored shirtwaist and the question of taste is left to the consumer, for there seems to be an end- less variety to choose from. Stitf Collars, Soft Finished Sleeves. The general tendency for severe outiine effects has dono much to popularize the plain tallored walst, but these little blouses have been so modified that they no longer resemble the stiffly starched shirtwalsts of some seasons ago. The tallored waists are mhde of soft materials and the dainty touches given to them by way of trim- ming and other matters of detail make the new tallored model a practical as well as A comfortable garment. The plain shirt- ke walsts, with stiff cuffs and collars, are still to be seen, but there is a general tendency for softly finished cuffs and a number of the newer models show the stiff collar, but the sleeves are finished like the lingerie and fancy models. Stmple Styles Prevail, Simplicity in cut is one of the principal features of the new walsts. Shoulders are parrow, sleeves are long and closely fitted %o follow the outlines of the arm and every suggestion of blouse s preciuded by the smoothly fitting and well drawn down models. Collars are still high, but not so decidedly pointed and not bened too much. The round and square Dutch necks are to be seen among the advanced summer models. - The trimming arrangement offers much varfety. A number of models show the Bimple stralght up and down treatment; other models are trimmed to form the boloro effect, and others again show the banding in empire effect. | Novelties in Waist Fastenings. Many of the new tallored models are made to fasten at the side in Russian blouse effect, while stralght front fasten- ings, without the slightest suggestion of ® pleat are one of the smartest ldeas in walst fastenings. A number of the new dingerie models show this departure from the regulation back-buttoned models. Many models that are not fastened In front and sides. show blind buttons and other fast- enings and ore invisibly closed in the back. Buttons are still employed largely for ornamental purposes, particularly the heavy crochet variety. Oolored Lingerie Season’s Novelty. Among the numerous novelties of the scason are the lingeries which are dyed in colors to match or harmonize with the tallored sult. These are shown in all the NEW TACTICS IN BRIDGE Discussion of Echo Plays for Third Hand at No Trumps, USE OF DOWN AND OUT ECHO Conventions that Help to Remove Ola Dificulties, and Thoughts on the Change the Sult Signal. The present season has seen several new developments in bridge tactics which are not yet in the text books. Some of them are still In the experimental stage, but all look as If they had come to stay, not with every bridge player perhaps, but each of them with some coterie of players who like to take up new things. Among the many difficulties of the game which are recognized by the experts prob- ably none has glven more trouble than the matter of understanding between the partners who are opposed to the dealer, especially in no trumpers. Almost every text book gives a different set of rules for the play of the third hand at no trumps, although they agree upon the leads and upon the third hand plays when opposed to a trump declaration. The authorities all admit the necessity of third hand's unblocking, but they advise the player to go about it in different ways. Bridge teachers all tell the third hand to show what he holds in his partner's suit, but they differ in the manner of doing it. are trylng to combine unblock- ing and echolng at no trumps with a con- vention which is intended as an invitation to shift to another sult and to lead through dummy. It is obvious that any such system as this will be Impossible until the authorities agree upon the foundation upon which this riew convention shall be bullt. You cannot tack one idea of an Invitation to lead through dummy upon three different 1d2as of echolng and unblocking. In order to make the system of any value it will be necessary first to agree upon the ele- mentary principles of the echo at no trump, %0 that the varlations from this standard form may convey the invitation intended Three Methods Followed. There are three principal methods of third hand playlng at no trump which are now followed, each being applied to cases in which third hand makes no attempt to win the trick; that s, when elther the Jeader or the dummy plays such a card that third hand does not need to go over it The first method adopted by the great mass of players is to play your smallest card always, regardless of number. The second method, used by those who have had a’'fow lessons, but not from a good teacher, is to play the next to the smadlest only when you have four cards of the sult Jled. The thind method, used by the ex perts, 1s to play the second best. always, regardiess of number or value. In the first method the card first played is followed by the next higher in following sult; but if the suit s afterward led from the original third hand he may return the higher of two remaining or the lowest of three, or he may lead any card that will beat dummy, regardiess of the number he holds himself. In the second method the lowest but one s followed by the lowest of all in follow- ing suit, but the returns are the same as in the first case. When the two cards that would be left In the third hand after complcting the echo are such that they might block a five card suit in the leaders hand, the lowest card must be retained and the echo must be suppressed. In suoh ©ases it is not only useless to begin it, but confusing. Must Aveld Confusi In the third method the lowest card is new spring shades and are otherwise ex- actly like the white lingerle models, The | marquisette walst is another novelty of the season, which s, at present, only to be scen among the high-class expensive models. These are daintily embroldered and lace trimmed. Crepe has ceased to be a novelty and seems to have taken its pldce among the better walst materials. Crepes are seen in all white as well as in color. Waist Mater Offer Wide Range. The tallored walst is made of various grades of linen, plain and daintily hand- embroldered, madras of various weaves, dimitles, - prepes, pongees, various other silks and net, while the lingerle walst s made of batiste, handkerchief linen, mull, lawn, swiss, plain and embroidered and all- over embroideries. Net tucking, net em- broidered In floss and soutache, Irish, Renalssance, Cluny and Venise laces and softly finished messalines are used for the dressy models, Marquisette of high class selling and a new cotton printed imitation silk in foulard effect for popular use are the novelty materials of the season. Heavy Laces of Trimniing Idens. One of the most striking ideas in new trimming is the wide employment of heavy laces. The new cluny, real and in imita- | tion, Is used very extensively, Hardly a walst but that shows Some touches of this new trimming. Irlsh and Venice laces are aleo used to a wide extent in conjunction with the plain clunies. The net top laces are used very effectively In combination with the heavy trimmings. Vals are still to be seen among the popular numbers, but linen laces are, at present, much to the fore. Crochet buttons, drop ornaments and pendants of all kinds are popular trim- mings. Hand embroldery 1s one of the most favored trimmings for the high priced models, and there s a tendency for the heavy embroidering In bralddd effect. Much is done with soutache bralding. Color Quite Pronounced. There is quite a tendency for color which manifestes itself not enly in the solid col- ored lingerle and other waists to match the suit, but many of the white and ecru walsts show touches of color in the trim- ming. Colored embroideries, embroidering and laces are the means to give these color touches to the waists. It 18 no longer essential that the walst should match the suit, exactly. Colors are shown for blending and harmonizing ef- fects. For instance, a walst pf pale mauve may be worn with a suit of deep wistari A pearl gray walst is chosen for & smoke gray suit. Contrasting colors In waists not too glaring are also well thought of. Among the new colors in walsts are the new Empiro blue, several rose shades, myrtle and plive greens, banana, chemolis, wistaria and the soft pastel shades. Black 18 much in evidence among the fancy lace and net models as well as the plain tail- ored effects, always held until the last so that there shall be no confusion or ambiguity either in the echo Itself or in the return leads, if such are made. Holding two cards only of the sult led, the second best, to be played on the first round, will be the lower of the two held and it must be followed by a higher card under all clrcumstances in fol- lowing sult, In return leads or in dls- carding. Suppose that third hand hold the J 8 3 He plays the § to the first round and the J to the second whether in'following suit, returning the lead or discarding. If he holds four cards, such as J 10 8 2, he plays the 10 to the first round, the 8 to the next in following sult or in discarding, but he would play the jack in returning the sult. In every case the lowest card, the deuce, would be held untll the last. This system of unblocking and echoing makes a clear distinction between the vari- ous numbers of carde held by the thira rard in each case. With three in sult the ond card played is higher than the first ofe, showing only one lower than either remaining. With four of the suit the sec- ond card played s lower than the first, showing one higher as wewll as one lower remalning. This method has the great ad- vantage of holding up a card which the leader can easily miss on sccount of Its smdll size and also of éxposing the dealer's false cards. It 1s upon this last form of the echo that it 18 now proposed to build the convention which shall indicate to the leader that third hand thinks it would be desirable to come through dummy instead of making third hand lead up to dummy. Idea of the New Eche. Every bridge player must acknowledge that there are countless hands in which the third hand would like very much to get a lead through dummy, and that there are probably just as many in which he would prefer to lead up to dummy’'s weak suit instead. The ldea of this new echo is to distinguish between these cases in such a manner that the partner shall understard which s the better plan to follow. Many a good card in third hand is killed by an untoward lead through dummy. This convention is chiefly useful when third hand holds so many cards of his partner's suit that he can manipulate ft in different ways. If he has four, for instance, he can show that he s keepirg a card which would win one round of the leader's suit If it got the chance. This 1s as much as to say that he wants the lead in order to play up to dummy's weak suit. Therefore the leader may argue then having through As & dummy's strong sult led practical {llustration suppose the leader against a no trumper holds such a suit as five to the A K Q, and third hand holds J 10 8 2. Let us first suppose that third hand has nothing that would lead PMm to wish for a lead thrcugh any of dummy’s sults. The original lead s the king, third hand plays his second best On the second round, when led, third hand plays the Now third hand cannot possibly held only the ten and deuce, would have been the deuce ten. Neither can have held the jack ten, deuce, or his play would have the ten and then the jack. The leader. therefore, is under mno misapprehension @8 to the true holding of third hand, be- cause third hand must hold & card higher than the ten, and also a card between the tep and the deuce. on which | the ten. the queen deuce, 1s | have or his play and then the he Reading the Situation. I ot orig'nal leader woull lead up to dummy’'s weakness he the situation as inviting him to put third hand in the lead If he does not want it, elther because there s nothing to be gained by It or because he does not care Special Sale of Women's SAMPLE SUITS OF THE MOST ELEGANT CHARACTER There are just 825 of these spring tailored suits—all of them newest 1909 samples. They will all go MONDAY at 4 or LESS THAN 4 REGULAR PRICES Our New York buyer secured this group from one of New York’s highest grade ladies’ tailors. It comprises his entire lines of road and showroom samples. Every Garment is Individual and Exclusive and Has No Duplicate Stunning 3-piece suits with jumper or full princess dress effect; 2-piece suits in long, hipless coats and straight lined styles. Many trimmings are of beautiful hand embroxder and braid desngns, other suits are plain and mannish in stnctly tail- ored effects. Materials are selected prunellas, in plain or corded, soft French serges, new gray mixtures, smart hard twisted worsteds practical storm serges, striped worsteds, etc. All the correct colors--grays, blues, greens, browns, tans, rose, catawba, reseda, copper and white serges, To Omaha women who want an exclusive style in a tailored suit of real elegance, this sale offers opportunities that have never before occurred in this city. PRICES WILL PREVAIL AS FOLLOWS; Wemen’s Sample Suits, werth to $100, at $62.50 Women's Sample Suits, worth up to $85.00, at $55,00 Women’s Sample Suits, worth up to $75,00, at $49,00 Women’s Sample Suits, worth up to $65.00, at $42.50 Women’s Sample Suits, worth up to $59.00, at $39.00 Women’s Sample Suits, worth up to $55.00, at $35.00 Women’s Sample Suits, worth up to $50.00, at $32,50 Women's Sample Suits, worth up to $45.00, at $29.00. — WE HAVE GROUPED 60 ODD SUITS, WORTH UP TO $40 EACH, TOGETHER WITH A BEAUTIFUL 2 5 NEW LOT OF “FASHIONSEAL” SUITS, all in one lot.. These are suits that are far superior to the ordinary medium priced suits. Not one could be duplicated anywhere else for less than $35. All the newest and smartest spring style features are included. Remember that next Monday is the Remarkable Special ~ Sale of Women's Silk Dresses—elegant taffetas, rajahs, messa lines, satinsand Shantungs. These are worth up to $35, at ea. 51 298 See them in our Sixteenth Street Window. — BRAN EIS The invitation was there, clined, that is all. suppose that third hand held something like sult. his partner especally third hand thinks such a course is better | dummy, which third hand could kill, or a trick which winning the game. conventional way of showing that desire the upon the lead, has run off all his own sult. the the up the jack on the next lead of the queen, thus | nis partner to put him in. leader goes right on with his queen, only to held four the | namber the been | ¢ round through dum stop his own suit while his partner still has a through him in lke a [Qur n read | ished other no trumps with four spades to the A K Q, four diamonds to the A K, four clubs to to risk it, he goes right along with the ace of his own suit and makes third hand give up his juck and get out of the way. the K J and one small heart. Ing 12ad was the king of hearts and third s‘rgg‘ but was hand held four to the J 9 and four to the A Q. Third hand echoed with e leader went on ana ‘nounced. The leader shifted to clubs, hand made his queen ana returned heart After rt hich clubs nd round of a sult, so much depend ing on the way the lead comes and the dealer's idea of how to play the hand. The echo is always useful to the leader, if only In placing the suit for the third round the leader should shift the sult at once In order to prevent the weak trump hand from getting in a ruff If the echo means no more the leader should continue the sult so as to let his partner get In & ruff before his trumps are drawn. Any misunderstanding in such & sltuation may cost tricks. suits to shift to, but he and figure it by cards with his own. If the two hands are weak in both the unplayed sults, prefer- ence should be given to the suit in which the smaller numbor of cards are shown. The in the dealer's sult, may be used by the original leader as & request to his partner not to return the suit first This sjtuation often ariscs when finds that the sult he opened is against him. 1s supposed to stop out comparing dummy's Now, let is take the same situation and the 9 and J the dealer re- third the a tenace over dummy in another Of course he would very much like to come through that suit, it 1s a guarded king In Dewn and Out Echo. This down and out echo conslsts in playing the higher of only two cards, neither of them as high as the jack, when no attempt is made to win the trick third hand. If one of the two cards is as high as the jack the echo is unnecessary, be- cause when the jack falls the third hand must have the queen or more. If third hand plays the jack to the first trick, it must mean queen or mo more. The great advantage of this echo Is that it enables the leader to place the dregs of the sult, especlally when dummy s the strong trump hand and the dealer is look- ing for opportunities to make his losing trumps separately. As a rule players re- gard the echo as an invitation to a ruff, and nothing more. It simply says, “Partner, if you lead a third round I can trump it.” But this is & lmitation. The great use of the convention is as & suit piac | When the down and out is used to show command of the third round it becomes useless for the purpose of lo- cating the ainder of the suit because of the uncertainty. For this reason the best players do not approve of those who teach the down and out echo to show com- mand Buppose that dummy declares hearts and the original leader opens a sult of five clubs to the ace-king. Dummy lays down three small clubs and third hand echoes with the six and deuce. What does this echo mean? If third hand uses it to show command if same the leader trick he led another sult dummy had discarded on the second heart lead, and third hand made three more club tricks. The getting leads through was what won the game. One point which has been pretty well settled recently is that it does not pay for the third hand to echo in & trump declaration for any other purpose than to Invite & ruff. The echo to show the cem- mand for the third round has been proved a fallacy, although many players have adopted 1t. Careful snalysis shows that it is false in principle and at times very confusing. had made the sixth club, one of is essentlal to saving o Change in Suit Signal. Unless there is some Another convention is the change of the ""“\:,"',"‘_“m suit signal, but it has not gained In favor | 0, ST, this season, has rather lost, chiefly | The inventor this convention cause it s necessary to have a previous | gy O T LA SOTRERIDY understanding with the partner and & tedi- f o oo *rl (BT KR PEYETR B ous explanation to the adversaries before | o0 1 FUNT RS THER 1o OACh The it can be used without laying the users | ¢l "0 T (TF DPPOATRER Bectite, Dowe Open o & symploion of untair play however little they may care to hear about is something in it that smacks to0 much |y it iy eusential that the convention should of the private signal business to suit honest | convey the same meaning to those whe card players. Nevertheless it is probably | have been plaing it for months. Of all the Just as well that bridge plavers iould |new ideas that have latoly appeared fn know that there ia such & thing In order | brigge this change the suit signal seems that they may protect themselves If they [, be the best desirable, as it is undoubt- meet with it at the card table. edly the least useful The convention consists of making an echo by playing a higher card before a ™ in the suit which is first led by the dealer, not In the suit led by the partner. This echo Is & command the original leader to abandon the suit he first opened and to try something else, This command applies, of course, to un- established sufty only and shou'd b ven when the third hand, who makes the echo, has & suit which Is elther already established, or good for three or four tricks or which can be established more surely and quickly than the original lead- or's. partner is extremely unlikely to hit twe be and certainly not until he of states should In such a position, third hand holding the same cards as before, J 10 3 2, plays ten on his partner's king, but gives making ft practically impossible for Of course, the discover that third hand must have of the suit, but departed from system of echoing with that a rule the leader would miss cards at once and would the deuce on the third regular As two small riatnly place fundamental ldea of the two players are opposed to a trump declaration Is to get in thelr crop of tricks befo it rains. With that end in view the leader shows what winning cards he holds in the suit he opens and his partner shows him how the sult is distributed. This Is accomplished by means of what is called the down and out echo. authorities uot be uscd unless a Ling Is led originally, showing the ability to win the second round of the suit, upon which the echo will be completed. But this Nmita- ton is quite unnecessary, especially with players who sometimes lead away from an ace when playing against a declared trump. Une who Why the 0ld Cow Changed Her Tune. “Why are all those peo to Hiram Hardappl old farmer on the hay | “Hi's got a curiosit led_the village constab “That wo? What Kind | 1w geor Why, Hi's red. ind-white Jersey | cow. he other night tie old eritter had the colic and HI went down with his e tern to give her o dose of cow medicine. Blamed 1t he didn’t make & mistake and glve her a pint of kasold o tellt Didn't Kill her, aid gt ;_but, by heck, It had & funny ef- Of course, there will be more or less h;x Now, instead of golng llou" ¥m>.a' " the original leader's part llke” any ~other sensible oo .a. e FRUAS 5 - part whea | (i S Y monk ! . Mke. Qe o€ har he gets In as to which of the twe unplayed ‘ blamed automoblles,” '—Chicago Now-. It it looks to the leader as if two leads echo cking down y might be useful he Lan asked the small card of it dummy, letting again for another er the first suit ¢ and third lead can lead hand put through d Is fia- " chuek. Some Insist of a should that this echo curlosity my: af only An lustance of Play, The writer saw a hand of this kind the day in which dummy had made It The open- can never tell who will win the