Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, April 4, 1909, Page 54

Costum The Hipless Figure Qutline is Evident in All Styles of Dresses and Costumes—High Waitsed Effects Still to Be Observed—Exaggerated Dropping of Normal Waist Line a Feature in Advanced Models, Which is Usually Effected by Trimming Arrangement. O OTHER FORM of costuming | offers such possibilities of the slender figure effect as the one-plece dress, whether . in plain tatiored style or In the more elaborate costume effect. e popular interest that is centered u,on the dress for the coming season promises 1o create an epoch in the history of gar- ment making. The offerings of the ready- to-wear garments in that line excel any- thing that has been shown in previous ns. As In the sult, there is a general mpiformity in :egard to figure outline, but {fere is enough detall and diversity of Hrimming ideas to offer wide vyariety. UPhere are dresses for every occasion, from the plain street dress to be worn without outer wrap, to the dainty and fluffy lin- gerle, net and lace dresses for cxclusive dressy wear. Dresses One Plece in Cut Or In Etfect. While most of the dresses are still out in semi-princess effect, there is an in- creased showing of dresses cut in one plece; especially among the high class gar- ments. There seems to be & tendency from Setling away from the belt outline wheiber Placed high or at normal line. All dresses are mady to hang and fit smoothly in long graceful lines from shoulder to hem, with enough fullness over the hip to carry out this stralght line effect. Gored and cir- cular skirts are used altogether, while the panel is used very freely. Many of the plainly tallored dresses show the panel front and back, whether the bodice short or long ut sides A much favored taliored style is the button. front one-plece princess, perfectly plain ‘from neck to hem, with the excep- tion of self-button ornamentation and a dajoty touch in neck finish Empire Waist Much in Evidence, Not 80 broadly accentuated as in previous seasons, but the empire bodice is still to the fore, especially in the dressler gar- ments. While most of the dresses are without lining (for only the net and lace garments are lined) and are made without stays, & number of the high class dresses are made with a wide, boned, form-fitting inner girdle, which 1s made to fit close to the figure but s slightly extended In the back so that the skirt should fall straight from bust line to accentuate the hipless etfect Cloth and Silk Dresses. For early spring there s a wide showhng of light weight cloth dresses, which are made in princess and empire styles, cut In piece and in semi-effect. Prunella, light weight serge, Pangma and some fancy worsteds are employed in the tallored gar- ments which are bandsomely tailored and trimmed with brald, embroldery and e material. Buttons anv still uséd for dress ornamentation, while pendants for neck and sash, girdles and other forms of drop ornaments are well to the fore Sleeveless, low cut neck cloth dresses are shown In sult costume end separately, al- thotigh the long siceved walking dress just cuf low enough at neck for tiny yoke ard collar seems to be greatly favored for effectiveness on the finue: and sheerest of materials, Net Employed to a Wide Extent. Much is done with net of all kinds. The allover net dress made over silk or heavier net lining seems to be making a bid for general popularity, and lace bandings are es and Dresses early wear. Foulard, smooth and roughly finished pongees for the high style dress and lght weight messalines and softly finished taffeta for the popular garments are the silks employed. Foulards are es- peciaily well thought of for warm weather wear. - Silk dresses are similarly made to the cloth garments, although many of the | silk dresses show greater elaboration of detall and less talloring than the cloth numbers. A great deal is thought of the lingerie dresses which are made In the prevalling | dress styles with a greater leaning to- wards short-waisted effects. Batiste, mull, swiss and all-over embroidery are used extensively for the lingerie models, while | bandings, medallions and tuckings form a part of the trimming scheme. Panels, tunic ideas, boleros and high and normal walst line effects are carried out by the treatment of tucking and bandings. The wider use of heavy laces is one of the season’s innovations. Plain heavy linen cluny is used in place of the val. laces, al- though val. is still largely’ seen among the | popular price garments. Irish, real and imitation, and Venise are used In effective contrast to the combined fine embrolderies, batiste and fine net top laces. A great deal Is done with tucking, Which is used in stralght yp and down and in dlagonal ef- fects. The embrolderies employed in the lingerie dresses offer wide variety and are from the simplest dainty eyelet to the most complex blind and cut combinations Heavy medallions, buttons and drop orna- ments of Irish crochet are used with greft effectively combined with the plain, tucked and spotted nettings. Net is also employed as a combination material, for many of the heaviest of linen dresses are prettily com- bined with net. Net sleeves and yokes are seen in garments made of linen crepe, as well as cloth and silk. Heavy soutache bralding on net or heavy embroidery are also seen on those net and heavy material combinations. Sleeves Long and Collars Shaped. With the exception of the high-class evening dress, which Is decollette and with- out sleeves, all dresses shown for spring show the long, close-fitted sleeves. The point directly over the hand, hovever, is point directly over the hand, however, Is not seen as often as before. The sleeve end is shaped and flared slightly so as to sug- geat the bell shape. Sleeves are trimmed stralght up and down, round and in pretty trimming effect” Most sleoves are trimmed to confofm to the rest of the trimming outline. The high polnted Gibson collar seems to be giving away to the round and shaped collars which are not as heavily frilled at the top as last scason, although ruchings are still to be seen. A number of the advance summer models &how the low Duteh collar, while many of the dresses with collars show the simulated round Dutch collars, which is effected by trim- ming of laces, braiding or embroldering. Although the straight up and down ef- fects are still good, & number of the high- style garments show a great deal of the trimming arrangement in simulation of the draped tunic, short In front and long, pointed and rounded length In the back. A number of the high-style models show the exaggerated long walst effect, which s ef- fected by trimming arrangement much Ifke the empire walst treatment. Bolero and other jacket effects, are also produced by trimming arrangement. Boleros are square and in rounded cutaway form and the close-fitted effects are better liked than those that are made to hang loosely over the bust. The bolero effects usually ac- company the emplre cut gown, while the long, sleeveless coat effects are to be seen in the advanced long-waisted dresses. This tendency toward the exaggerated long wa'st 18 also to be observed in the numerous low- set, broad directolre pockets that adorn & number of dresses. The general effect of these dresses is of a gracefully hanging one-plcce dress, with sweeping length of the skirt and a sleeveless bolero or longer Jackets. Embrotdery. Color In embroldery 18 more pronounced than ever this season. Bandings, walst fronts, allover patterns and various other forms of embroldery are shown In color. Although colored batiste with self-color embrodery Is shown to some extent, most of the embroidery shown is white, with color embroidering in Anglaise, Medeira and the similar blind and open patterns. A great deal of the cut embrolderies in Venise and Irish lace design s also to be seen. Half-made robes, Wwalsts, corset- covers, chemise, petticoats and children's dresses, as well as unfinished yokes, col- lars and varlous other accessories are to be had in hand-embroidered as well as in the effective machine imitations which re- semble the hand work so closely that only the closest Inspection reveals the differ ence. In colored embroideries there are some high class noveltles, such as the highly colored Hindoo embroidering, which is done on heavy crashiike linen. Very vivid colors and much tinsel of gold and silver are seen in these embroideries. Ve Velling continues to be good and, although during the colder weather fabric veils were in pretty fair demand, more business scems to be done on the mesh vellings. The Tuxedo vellings are still good and the plain dress net dotted in varlous size dots are still holding thelr own. There Is at present mothing newer than the Russian and magple vellings, which continte to be In excellent demand. Only in fabrics does the demand run toward vells, but mesh vellings are sold by th yard. Black Is an excellent color for veil ing, while black and white double meshes and all shades of gray follow black very closely. Navies and browns are also taken to some extent. In chiffon and other fabric vells the tendency seems to be for white and light colors Ribbons. Spring will open with great promise for the ribbon department. Sashes and girdles made of various widths or ribbons will be in very wide demand. There will also be a demand for ribbon hair ornaments of all sorts. The velvet ribbons will be brought info play for halr ornaments. Children's boxed ribbon sets are becoming more pop- ular than ever. Metallic ribbons in all colors will be very popular for belting. Ribbon tles for low shoes are also to be taken Into consideration when 'iTbbon fs bought. While satin, taffeta, fallle and messaline In plain weaves are good, no rib bon department will be ccmplete unless there 1s some showing of the numerous fancy weaves and printed effects. Per slans, Dresden and fancy check, stripes and brocaded effects are well represented among the spring lines. The high-class novelties are the black and white effects, which show some handsome brocade and other novel effects. WEINLANDER & SMITH Ladies’ Exclusive Furnishings and Choice Novelties ... .. Our Special Spring Display Waists for Easter Wear Lingerie Wi long sleeves, elegantly embroidered and trimmed with 3 to $8.00 each. om Linen Tallored Walsts from $2.50 to $3.60 each. Rich Dainty Neckwear We offer attractive styles in Bows, Collars from 50e to $3.00 each. L e New Spring Gleves Two- button Kid Gloves, Special on elbow length, , $1.25, $1.50, $1.75. $3.50 $2.48. for High Grade Undermuslin Special values, fine assortment Corset Covers from 50e up to $5.00 cech. Dainty Night Gowns l‘glmm $1.00 to $5.00. Beautiful Petticor Suits at all prices. Chemise and Combination WE FIT CORSETS Our Corset Department is now complete. We have éx- clusive lin We can fit you with the desired effect and without discomfort. Give us a trial. 317 South 16th Street | | | | ; | | | | | A most imposing display of new spring garment styles A rgdiantly beautiful collection of all that is best and most desirable and most artistic in the ready-to-wear creations for the Easter season— de ‘Suits, Street and Dinner Gowns. Evening Cos- tumes, Wraps, Waists, Skirts, Infant's and Children's Wear in almost endless variety of the season’s most fascinating de- signs, choicest colorings and most wanted fabrics. No ef- fort has been spared to make our showing for this week the banner one in the history of our syit department and that success has crowned our efforts is attested to by every visitor. The bettering of quality, the increase in assortments at each price is clearly evident to all and although the extremes are shown in splendid variety, our main effort has been confined to a superior showing of the praoctical productions in all lines Thousands of beautiful Spring garments shown for the first time in Monday’s sale. Special attention has been given to making our display one of winning originality aud superior * quality throughout. Prices will show a saving here of easily 15 per cent to 25 per cent to purchasers. Tallored Suits in the most clever designs, materials and colorings for spring wear, $35.00, $40.00, $50.00, #95.00 up to. The queen of all Tailor Suits the Crown Jewel, shown in complete assortment, Monday, 300 new ones matchless, at Women's and Misses' Lingerie Dresses, white and colors, at, $7.50, $10, $12.50, up to s Dress and Walking Skirts $3.98 to $25.00 Every Imaginable New Style. Everything at Less. $65.00, $75.00, $35.00, $39.00, Just B30 ianay L I .. .$45.00 to Beautiful New Waists, 40c and up to $25 Beautiful Gowns, Messalines, Satins, in fact, every wanted SRy fabric In the richest pastel and street shades, attractively pric at $30.00, $49.00, $60.00 $75.00, Spring Wraps and Jackets—All latest de- } signs and colors, at $7.50, 810, 812 Children's Coats, Jackets, resses, 60c¢ up Best and most complete line shown in Omaha. H AYDEN’S Don’t Forget. Just Try Here First. It Always Pays. . THE RELIABLE STORE Crepe, rajahs, Serges, - < < < < < < < A > < < < < < < < > < < < < et ©... . 885,00 £5.00 e e