Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, April 4, 1909, Page 50

Ladies’ Spring Suits Three-piece Suits Shown Very Widely—Coats and Skirts Cut on Blender Figure Outline—Coats Seem to Hang Straight from Shoulder in Long Graceful Lines, HE position of the taflored sult, plain or fancy, 1s pretty well entabiished among favored gar- ments for spring. A pronounced . feature in sult fashions is the wiflc vogue of the S-plece sult, Which fs mot, as 1n previous seasons, shown in elaborate costume form exclusively, but many of the practioal walking sults, Plainly and weverely cut and taliored, are made in three-plece form. The two-plece sults pt the coming season are marked by the wider showing of the high cut or girdle skirts, although the sult With regulstion skirt is as often ween among the high-class goods as among the more popular staples. Long, Slender Figure Outlime. A great deal of attentlon hus been given to the cut and style of the mew suits, ‘Which are altogether patterned on latest fashion In figure outlines. The garment must give the effect of youthful siender ness to the wearer. From the cut to the slightest detall of the garment has this slender silhoustte been the Imspiration of the designer. The broad, arogping shoul- ders of previous seasons have given way fo the stralght, narrow ones. Bkirts hang limply, but in graceful foMs around the wearer, and usually give the effect that they fall from the bust lne rether than for the walst. The bust 18 still high and slecves are long and marrow and follow the arm put- lines. s Loag ahd Semi-Fitted. The season Is opening with wuch longer coat than s usually shown for spring and summer. Although the correct lengths vary from thirty-two to forty-five inches, there is a declded pretersnce for the longer lengths, of which the thirty-six-inch coat is oftemest seen. In order to ocarry out the correct hipless effect the coat must fall pretty far below the hip line, Semi- fitted wtyles are highly favored and those garments that are out and trimmed so as to preclude any suggestion of hips and curves are well thought of by authorities of fashion. The square back effect with straight, narrow shoulders and no sug- gestion of coat meems to hang from the shoulders, ajthough there is a certaln smoothness of the lines of the garments which precludes the idea of looseneas, Cutaway and Straight Fronts. Stralght front coat outlines are not want- ing, but there Is a greater leaning to- wards the cutaway effects. The high cut skirt as well as the trimmed front dresses that accompany the coats are especially adapted for the cutaway styles; extreme cutaways for the dressior trimmed sults and modified effects for the plainer two- plece plainly tallored sults. The coliarless coat Is much in evidence among the ad- vanced summer lines, and particularly among the lightwelght cloth eollar for the tallored effects and the fancy rolled collar, cut extremely low in front, for the fancily- trimmed sult. The high Incroyable coliar I8 also seen, but does not extend to the thyoat in front. Most coats are made so @s to display & part of the stock worn un- derneath as well as to show & part of the bodice at the throat. A number of coats still show the neck girdle and broad revers. Many of the cutaways show a side button effect by having the coat front but- ton over to one side, but this is cut in such & manner as to still reveal the trimmed front g} skirt and bodice. Southéhe, Embroidery and Button. A wjder showing of soutache trimming marks this season’s ready-to-wear lines. A great/deal Is done with this trimming in brald And embroldered effects to carry out the panel ideas In wskirts and dressés, while in coats this trimming is often used to simulate the collar, cuffs, revers and bolero jacket effects. Buttons are still in high favor, although used more sparingly and more artistically than in the last few sensons. Flat-stitched effeots in silk, satin and other fabrics are excellent, while the high-class garments show touches of heav- fly encrusted brald trimmings in gorgeous coloring and metal effects. Tassels and other pendant ornaments are in greatér evidence than ever, for even some of the plain linen-tallored garments show this style of trimming. Heavy silk and cotton floss embroidering, either ‘embroldered on the fabric or applied in band and other trimming form, Is used freely, and while & great deal of the embroidering is done in self-color, contrasting but harmonizing color effects are well liked, Skirts Narrower and Fewer Gores. Fewer gores, less flare at foot and snug fit are the principal features of the com- Ing season's skirts. Sult skirts show much less trimming than in former seasons, and whatever trimmings are used are applied 50 aftistically that there is no detraction from the straight lines. All well-made garments fall in easy and graceful line close o the figure and all trimmings are arranged t0 conform to the general out- lines of the ‘coat. If a coat is cut and trimmed stralght up and down the skirt follows this outline even to the smallest detall in the trimming. The sharply outa- way coats which show a graduated round or square outline in back show the side and back tunic effect in skirt trimming. The side-buttoned coats almost invariably show a simllar diagonal skirt trimming treatment. Skirts are much longer, although walking lengths still clear the ground. Swedping lengths are ween in the dressier garments. Skirts are cut high or made with attached belt and girdle. The plain band skirt is still good, however, particularly in the plainly tailored garments, The Season’s Favored Materials. Although there is a wide showlng of fancy materfals, much is done with the plain fabries. Serge Is shown in varlous welghts and grades. Panamas are used to a wide extent, and particularly In the me- dium class of goods. Prunclla in pla and fancy weave is one of the season's novelty offerings which looks quite promising, Various famey mixture sultings in woven and colored stripe and check effects are also shown In large numbers. For summer wear much is thought of linen, rep, pique and other numerous linen effects. Ramie linen s a high-class noy- elty which augers for all soft and glossy finish linen ' imitations for popular use. Batin trimmings on linen 1s one of the coming season's inmovations, but is used on the colored high-class linens, which must be chemically cleancd instead of on the ordinary launderable garments, The Season’s Colors. Blue {8 not only the staple éolor, but among the novel colors some new blues are to be se>n, among which are the pea~ cock, new cadet, Empire and gendarne shades. Several shades of navy head the blue series. The gray series has widened considerably, and bestdes taupe, stone and the smoke shades there are the oxford, steel and pearl. The brown series seems to run to lighted shades than in former scasons, among which the natural leather and wood shades, chamols castor and banana are most pronounced. Green in. cludes the olive, myrtle, sage, reseda, while the novelty sha bronse and of catawba, wistaria, amethyst, old rose dea consist ana old gold. DAY OF THE - UGLY CIRL She Dresses in Picturesque Style and is Pretty. FASHIONS KIND TO THE UGLY ONE Latter Has an Equal Chauce in the Beauty Contest——Peach Basket Hat and Up and Down Di- Fectotre Kigare, NEW YORK, April 2.—“The day of ugly girl is here. Bo exclaimed a French man dressmakor noted of late for his 'success In making women look pretty, sven when they lacked §00d features. “Formerly the styleq were created for the oné Woman in a thousand—the beautiful woman," ‘he went on. “Npw they seem speclally made for the ugly one. “Dressed in one of the new gowns one can scarceln tell 'whether a ‘woman Is a beauty or not. Bhe is smart, chic and so novel that It her coloring 18 good she passes for a beauty. As for her actual features and figure they are so thoroughly disguised by ftashion that it never occures to the beholder to pass judgment upon them. The ugly woman to be beautiul must be expulkltely gromed. Her hair must be done in o uncertain fashion and her gown be exquisitely groomed. Her hair must be mastered the detalls of picture dressing she can be beaullful, no matier what her natural features may be. Yes, it is the artistic heyday of the ugly girl. The time of her triumph. Saving the Ugly One. “I had an_ ugly featured girl apply to me for & spring outfit, Bhe had be badly treated by nature. Her front teeth protuded and her ohin receded. Her nose was lumpy and her cheek bones high. Her eyes peeped out from a rather fat face and she . was not an encouraging subject for a beauty maker. Yet that girl was a temptation to me. I yearned to see how 1 could transtorm her, “I saw &t once that my only chance was to make & picture of the girl's countenance. 8o I called In an expert hairdresser, who proceeded o dress the girl's halr in that exaggerated style of Psyohe knot in which great bunch protudes at the back of the head just about the nape of the neck or seven inches In depth, breath and thick- ness. 1 thén selected a hat which covered the girl's head completely. It came down over her face like a great basket and at the back It rested upou this immense knet of halr. Then that girl's head was a ploture. Actuslly sho began to look beauti- ful. ‘I am plotuhesquely homely," said she. And T could not bt agree with her. Bang 18 Coming Back, “The bang is returning. It will be one of the features of the London hairdressing. Already one sces English women of fashion with foreheads decorated with that fringe which used to be called the English bang. It is short, heavy and uncutled. But it ls very flufty and it is kept so light by con- stant wasitngs that it bas a softness that he closely resembles curliness. It is very be- coming to the face that is no longer young. “Many women make a mistake In their study of the bang. They consider It a thing for children and very young girls. But quite the comtrary is true, “The bang softens features. that are hard; it conceals the little lines around the temples; It acte as a'veil for the heavy lings across the forehead and it makes the face: look more girlish. I am advising all women of mature looks to wear this Eng- lish bang. “Like all things it must be treated ar- tistically. If even a fraction too long or a shade too heavy it will look awkward. ' But here is where the expert hairdresser can that are pleasing in themselves, “I love to take an ugly girl and do her hair in picture fashion. Often I have to pike the knot aj, the back with a dosen very decorative pins. And over this I must set the big round pot hat that al- most hides the face. Chief Difficulty is Figure. “But my chief difficulty is with the figure, for there are women who seem to have a grudge agalhst themselves. They inslet upon walking as though they were trying to double up. They kick their feet long; they are awkward with thelr arme and they look short. And in these days of Bvelte girls shortness is to be avolded. I L y short wo be relied upon, she knows how to cut a|™mAKe my ugly short women look tall and bang. “After 1 had dressed the halr of my ugly woman and had placed a great in- verted basket shaped hat:upon her head, leaving only her ‘big baglike' halr dressing to show at the back and a tiny fringe of bang visible In the front, I turned my at- tention to her chin. Earrings for an Ugly Chi an once. The woman with ugly chin should adopt earrings at She sh-uid also wear a long chain around her meck. Bare rings dress up the face and make it seem wider. They also lengthen the line from the forehead to the chin and they give a certain decorative touch to the profile, “Into the ears of this decidedly (il fea- tured girl I hooked big handsome tur- quoises. I selected turquoises because the girl's eyes happened to be pale blue and turquolses seemed to deepen them and bring out the color. &lorious, willowy and gracetul. ‘The long black chain worn around the neck and allowed to hang down below the knees in front is one of the best of all known things for making a woman look tall. The big carved black wood beads, or the wicked winking jet ones, are the most picturesque. And on the end of this long chain the ugly woman hangs charms, I Inslst upon a mirror in order that she may study her own face, and I make it « polnt that she shall ca powder fluff and a few other personal trifles in order that she may repair her countenance, should It need it, and it surely will. “Another very telling ald In gaining helght s found in the little ornaments that hang at the side. The alms bag Is one of the best features for the ugly girl to adopt. It Is hung from the belt by long cords and It adds to the length of Whe figure. The ugly woman must re- member that her dress is her most inter- “Then about her neck I put a soft white | esting point; not for an Instant csn she ruche, very full, very tall and very thick It was charming and it dressed up the ugly neck and chin, concealing it and Investing It with a thousand hidden charms. “I wish men dressmakers—and dressmakers, too, for that matter—under- stood more thoroughly the possibilities of the ugly girl Personally 1 do not make gowns, nor do I conduct a hat establish- ment. My business 18 wholly that of a de- signer. My patrons come to me for plans and [ design thelr gowns. My success lies In giving them something hecoming. Code of Proceedure. “I have been revelling this season in the possibllities of the woman who has been until this year wholly neglected, namely the woman with no beauty, no style and an acute consclousness of her own defects. The principles I follow, roughly states these: “Dress vour ugly woman as though she had no face at all. Forget her features for the time being and devote yourself to her gown. “Strive for concéalment. Her hat 1s more beautiful than her face: her gown more lovely than her fikure. Conceal face and figure and bring out hat and gown. “Force our ugly woman to have walstline. Make thig the one which your work hinges. Tell her wat must be small and aist that she dlet and exe reise has obtalned the desired waist ment "Btudy carefully the eolor schemes of the ugly woman. Don't et her put om colors Indiscriminately. Give rtaln tones and tell her to stick “If she be very a nice point on her that round. In. until she measure- women | 15 worse than no | ect selousness Ugly, then choose colors | coats are Just ‘the thing for afford to neglect herself, “The ugly girl can always fall back upor veil. But even here stand a few beauty a she must unde The bad all, an secr vel vell at “The red-cheeked puts a blue vell will have a purple countenance The sallow woman who wears a violet veil Wil have an orange colored face. The vell mingles with the complexion tints and produces new shades. Black and cream are always safe, the ugly-faced girl can so arrange sPots as to cover worst defects. ie ugly faced girl has a habit of droop- her chin; it Is a habit born of self- and modesty. But It she timidity and boldly lift her wor who on and the Ing will throw off face The rounder if the in looks head be lifted Shoes Help Some, “Wear chic shoes and be sure to show them. Many a woman s partly created from a dress standpoint by the chicness of her boots. Have uppers that match vour ekirt; have buttons that are ploture but tons and be sure that your hoots o dreesy. Make them as smart as they can younger and | be "It the ugly woman Is ugly also in figure 1 advise the exaggeratcd styles in dre In these extreme modes the woman with no flgure at all the woman with too much figure stands the same chance as the woman who Is ideal In shape. The figure Is concealed by the exaggerated style of dress. “The long, straight, pecuilar gowns the nd woman H her | she will find that her appearance im- | | proves. 1 | | | o |7 who is not certain of her form. They are exaggerated and they conceal detects. They are tight around the knees, either very short or very long In the waist, and oda generally. The ugly woman stands as good & chahce In them as the woman of perfect term, “This fs the day for the woman with hemely hands. Bhe can wear sleeves with points that cover the middle knuckle of her hand. And she can put on gloves that are in themfelves too pretty for nnything, loose, chic and full of charm; in this way her hands attract. “Hair can be made to grow almost any color. My experlence Is that halr can be ireated until it ‘will actually come to any desired shade. I don't mean to say that 1 can make black hair come In golden or that 1 can take white hair and make it come n auburn. But I do mean that T can treat brown halr until it Is almost any tint may desire from a deep seal brown or a brilllant chestnut to a golden hue. It Is merely a matter of hair tonics, hampocing and scalp massage “It I8 surely the of the homely woman. 8he Who has no good looks to boast of can turn her gloom Into rejolcing, for she has in her ugliness the pessibilities the clothes line this blessed minute.’ "l fix ‘em, Jim, taking down his shotgu allus keeps londed with fine birdshot tiptoed to the door, took aim, “Killed ke in Dawson. You're wrong," “he never teched of great herself a gowned as decorated a ploturesqueness. She can make real type. And when she I8 she should be gowned and she should be decorated, her features are regular, or whether her figure Is drawn to form. “Her precepts should be three: Make yourself look like a picture giri. “Try to conceal your features and figure | by adopting the most artistio extreme in dress. “And have a long mirror in which you can study yourself constantly, lest you forget that you are striving for effect.” Bl Vi eyl etflpmmofip Outrivels Davy They were telling how well they could shoot, and Tom Dawson recalled & duck | Bunt In which he liad brought down five birds with one ghot. Talk about shootin’,” old man Tiitor “l saw Jim Ferris do a mighty neat plece of work cne day last week. His wife was putiin’ out the washin' and she wae complainin’ about the pesky sparrows makin' dirt marks on the damp clothes with thelr feet. ““They're thick as bees says she. ‘There's seven of Crockett. sa which he He and ever e of them s sparrcws, began br one corrected Tilford eqimly: ‘em, but when his wife took in the washin' she found she had three pair of openwork stoekin's and & fine peckaboo shirtwalst,"—Success day ‘round here,' em - sittin' on Action for Your Money—You get Bee advertising columns. Quick that by using 1 i THE SKIRT STORE Cor. Chicago and 16th Sts: 822 No. 16th St. The Famous Suit, Dress and Skirt Store Presents a Brilliant Showing and will hold a GRAND SALE of EASTER SUITS, SKIRTS and JACKETS SPECIAL SALE THIS WEEK | < - - < ——— - < < < < < < < < Bach new, original, exclusive, very chic and classy, Styles are all chie, classy and up-to-the-minute in every way_-and includes every new model shown elsewhere at any price, hese are the Suits that &re the fopndation of our Suit Bual- 315 L ness and comMpare with oy In Omaha at double the - pri Worth $26.00. Chol of thirty styles . . % M - e U . i . SR . S S . S . S i < SMART EASTER £ $4.90 SKIRTS $8 and 810 Values Beyond question the greatest value we have ever offored at the pri‘e-—daintliy tallored in th latest styles—ehowing fashion changes that are positive inaovations, Appropriate, werviceable Skirts for the whole season-—morning or afternoon [ e Open till 9 P. M. Mail Orders Filled for 10 Days French Mesh Voiles, English Worsteds, Chitfon Panamas and new spring mixtures, Come early and get your cholce,