Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, April 4, 1909, Page 55

THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: APRIL 4, 1909 Spring Millinery The Arabian Turban and Mushroom Toque Popular Types—Novel Effects in Feathers for Height Giving and Drooving Effects in Trimming—Jet Favored. HE spring millinery season will open with.an unusual display of a large number of models, sev- eral of which are now spoken of as the most likely to be the favorites when the sea- #on finally opens. The distinctive types bidding for popularity are .the turbans, toques and broad brim, flat crown that became so highly popular during late win- ter. Although the extremely large models are not shown at this early stage there is no indication of a small hat season. Medium large ghapes trimmed so as to give & large and picturesque effect are well to the fore. The toques and turbans that in former seasons could bes cogrectly de- acribed as small hats cannot be so termed now. The toques and turbans are made to extend well over the front and sides of the large coiffures. Turbans Shown in Large Numbers. Perhaps no other model 1s at present re- celving 80 much attention as the turban. The large Arablan turban promises to be- come a favorits while the English and Russian types are to be seen In large numbers. The large turbans are worn well forward over the head and they are ®so broad that they will shade the face of the ‘wearers. Everytning seems to be on the mushroom order. The brims have a ten- dency to droop in all shapes with here and there a fow partly upturned brim models. There is also a strong indication of a high crown, for in many of the new models the crown is more pronounced than the brim. The broad brim picture hats show a broad low crown, but the tendency for high trimming gives the high crown effect. Among the numerous other models that are shown are the mushrooms, shepherdess, directolre honnet and tricorne. Straw Bralds Widely Employed. While a great many materials are used for the made hats, great preference is given to the rough braids for early wear. For the advancing season there are the smooth Milan, chip, halr braids and Neapolitan. Net and maline are excellent for the dressier early made hats and are especlally well ‘hought of for jet com- binations. The jet turban is also well thought of 1 very early wear and will take the place of the usual flower turban, but al- though fet will be used in touches on many of the later models, the all-net hat is con- sidered to be only a high class season novelty. Willow Plume, Fanecy Algrettes. The willow or shower plume seems to have displaced the ordinary ostrich feather and since the tendency is for height giving effects and fancy algrettes are called into play. The aigrettes are somewhat soft- ened by curled ends and the fancy curled quill, mephisto and other fancy feathers show touches of jet and jeweled effects. ‘Wings are also shown, but these are also softened by edges of marabout. Most feathers and other trimming are used to give the high and picturesque effects. Among the novel fabrics used for the made hats and for draping the simple tatlored model are the tinseled or metallic effects, printed messaline, chiffon, foulard in Persian and other novel designs, as well as radlym, gauze, laces, tulle, silk, /mull and liberty. Flowers Looked Upon As Promising. While the flower toque and turban have again made their appearance for between season wear the wider use of brald, fancy feathers and fabrics will do much to hold flowers in abeyance untfl the season ad- vances somewhat. Flowers are looked upon as promising, however, and the floral ar- ray for spring is the most exquisite that has even, been offered. The rose, orchid, magnolia, lilae, poinsetta, wistaria, gar- denia, pansy, violet, hyacinth and poppy are well represented among the floral dis- play while the humble fleld flowers have not been overlooked. The flowers are of- fered in all their exquisite natural coloring although there 1s quite a showing of gold and silver flower Absence of Bandeau Noted. That the hats are still to be worn well over the head is noted by the absence of the bandeau and where the bandeau is used a very narrow even all around band is used. The mushroom or bowl shaped turbans are especially worn well forward, The only models that show the new styles are a new fancy toque with dropping ornaments and the poke shape. Tn sige, shape and general trimming treatment, the large turbans are patterned after the fur models that become so highly popular In late winter. Jdet and Jeweled Ornaments. Cabochons, buckles, oddly shaped pins and bandings show a great deal of jet and Jeweled effects. Sequins on bands of net foundations, strands of dull jet beads and numerous pendant ornaments offer many trimming ideas to the ingenuity of trimmer and designer. A great deal of skill is dis- played in the trimming arrangement. A mushroom hat of smooth light colored straw showed a band arrangement around the crown of soft fold of white tulle, black velvet ribbon. and banding of spangled jet over which were two white shower plumes, in drooping effect. Rib- bons are also used sparingly for the earlier hats, but with the flowers nothing is more effective than ribbon: therefore much is thought of ribbon for the advancing season, Faille, satin and softly finished taffetas in plain and fancy prints are the ribbons mostly shown. The Colors Still Subdued. The art shades are still very pronounced and with bright colors used are given In effective touches. Old rose, ashes of roses, wistaria, mauve, empire and the old blues, a few dulllsh green shades and numerous light browns of the banana, castor, golden and bronze tints are quite pronounced among the trimming colors. In foundation coloring black, brown and gray are much In evidence. Black is es- peclally well thought of in dressy millinery. The fruit and flower shades as well as the delicate pastel colorings are also much to the fore. There is a tendency for blend- ing and harmonizing effects in hat and costume mithough for early wear some matching will be done. Neckwear. In nevkwear much interest 1s at prese felt in the Irish and Venis laces. llnen cluneys are also used widely for the new neckwear, The Dutch and Eton col- lars made of lace, lace trimmed batiste and other lingerie or in still linen effect prom- ises to become very popular. Brought out s & novelty late lst sunmmer, 1t took merely with the ul- tra trade, but this spring, aoderding to Indications, these col- lars will not only be worn on the walst or dress, but outside on the coat Coat sets of lace or linen embroldered ef- fects are also prom- Ising as good be- tweensseason m e r- chandse - before it gets too warm. The earlfest showing of neckwear nov- eltles are those of the lingerle variety. Stock and jabots, rabats and tles are shown In lingerle effects. The wider use of heavier laces, flatter and shorter jabots and the increasing popularity for hand- embroldered effects are tne principal fea- tures of the new neckwear. The Dutch collar, with jabots to match, is one of the novelties of the season. Stocks and collars are round and shaped in rounder form. Ruchings are stiil good and the demand runs for the narrow ef- fects rather than the extremely wide and frilly varieties. Handkerehiefs, veltles are the pretty hand- embroldered one-cor effects in white and coloring, which show the inftial fn combination® with some ¢ % designs and The new handkerchiefs still show color in printed, and em- broldered effects. While the greater de- mand scems to be for embroidered effects, some interest shown 1n lace trimmed Among the embien some corde is handkerchiefs. Brussels net, val and fine linen laces are seen among the lace num- bers. Wasted Opportunity. “When I was a boy,” sald the severe parent, “I walked five miles w0 school every a. ¢ answered the flippant youth; ht have quals ."—Washington 00 bad,” “with proper training you n ifled for a Marathon rac Star, FINE NEW EASTER CARDS This Season’s Showing is More Elab- orate Than Ever in Number and Quality. NEW YORK n quar- ters, and New one of them, the opening of the designs in Easter cards is almost as ecagerly awaited as the new designs In Faster bonnets, and the retallers who keep the highest slass de- April some York new % manufacturer. sIgns are the soonest sold out. In some New York stores, in fact, it s almost impossible for late comers to get any high class designs at all. They have to fall back on the second best. The surprising part of It Is that every year the Baster productions in workmanship and design appear to be bettered, especially in the Binglish manufactures, and that, too, with- out much advance In cost. This season, in color effects and finish, the leaflets are ahead of anything seen before. Here are some examples Francis Brundage's painting, “‘Faster Morn,” showing two exquisitely beautiful winged female figures in water colors, is mounted in portfolio form about ten by elght inches, tled with Inch-wide sk ribbon, finishing in a full bow. The in- scription, “Hail, Easter Morn,” an ap- propriate verse and the border to the plcture are done in an artistically illumi- nated design. This retalls at 76 cents. In the same class but smaller is “God's Blessings,” an upright leaflet showing angels with halo surrounded with Baster lilles. The figures, flowers and foliage are tinted in natural colors against a silver background. The motto s in blue and silver and there are appropriate verses written within the covers. “God Keep You" shows a beautiful fe- male head with bronse tinted hair and halo against a siiver sphere, in turn set against a blue tinted background. Sheaves of lily of the valley are wound about the shoulders, the motto is In blue and silver the words and music of an Easter hymn done In silver are placed within the cover, a narrow white ribbon Is tied across the lower half of one side of the binding and dellcate sprays of siiver leaves adorn a corner of each of the inside leaves. Parch- ment oflette leaflets are In & class by themsel: and the leading designs, In slze about ning by six Inches, are de- lighttul In coloring. A fuvorite shows an angel with huge wings kneeling before tall rowing lilies and purple iris in natu- ral colors against & gold background. The halo, the motto, “He i risen,” and the lettering of the Paster hymn and music on the Inside page are done in gold. In another of the same order, the color- ing used In “A Woman at the Cross” is artistically perfect. Sea green billows break into foam at the foot of the cross, which 18 luminated with slanting rays from above. The motto, the verses, the llk ribbon decoration are violet. These are but two of the perhaps 100 or more noticeable oflettes, many of which are finished with white and with colored silk cord and tassels and bordered with dainty floral decorations. Jowelled and embossed leaflets are more plentitul than ever before in the easter display and they are far more beautiful than any seen before. Wreaths of raised forget-me-nots with siiver hearts surround @& ralsed silver cross In one style. An anchor and clus- ters of ralsed purple and white violets are embossed on a white leaflet bordered with & fine ribbon effect in silver tinsel. A particularly artistic deslgn shows large raised pansies In natural shadings minus the tinsel setting, the inside leaf, contain- fng an Easter hymn, belng printed In silver. A small cross of plain silver sur- rounded with a wreath of pond lilles out- lined in green, yellow and the merest suggestion of silver finished with a raised sllver motto and a pale narrow silk ribbon and including words and music of an Easter hymn is one of the best In the smaller designs, which sell for from 25 to 5 centa. Marvels In thelr way are the art postal cards, especially those of the glistening dew finish, which Include some of the most fascinating of the 200 new varieties sent sout for Easter by the leading English There are groups of tiny ducklings and chickens in cherubs and angels in These retail for from § to shimmering natural colors, shining array. 10 cents each. In cut out cards.and novelties the de- signers have turned out some very odd and amusing specimens. “Greetings on Haster morning,” is a rooster in men's clothes wearing a monocle attached with a gold cord and an adjustable silk hat, standing before a large broken Faster egg filled with chicks. [This is mounted In ensel style. “Spring has Come," with movable forepaws Easter llly megaphone. “Mr. and Miss Chick” is among the most popular of the easel variety although not among the largest designs. Mr. Chick wears an adjustable top he‘ and Miss Chick a fetching movable bonnet with crinkled paper frill and ribbon strings. Another oddity 1s an Easter hare harncssed to a flower trimmed jaunting cart filled with chicks shaded with parasols. The “Duckling Dude” is decked in Easter clothes a movable wing holding a watch and watch pocket a gold cord serving as a watch chaln. Mr. Rabbit,” with real bead eyes and dressed in a cosume topped with a motor cap s carrying an umbrella, and Miss Bunny In Easter finery ready for a stroll wears an adjustable hat and a real lace vell, shows a rabbit holding an ALONE, HE DEFENDED ISLAND Passing of Here Who Fought Indians Stagle-Handed Kept Flag Fiyin John Travers, a man who many years ago defended the Amerloan flag against & horde of Indians on a lonely little fsland off Alaska, died at Mt. Hope Retreat, in Baltimore, where he had been about twenty years. He was 7 years old. The cause of his death was congortion of the lungs. Travers had a meteoric reputation, for it scems that no longer had he been brought to the asylum bound in chains, than he was forgotten, and no one ever thought to recall his desds or patriotism. It is probable that the only person wha remembered him all those years at the asylum was Dr. Charles G. Hill, who has been physician and surgeon-in-chlef at the institution during the entire period. Rorn In Massachusetts, Travers at an early age enlisted in the navy and fought on one of the federal vessels during the elvil war. It seems he found marine life distastetul, for on the expiration of his enlistment he jolned the army and was sent to the far west. Bventually he was etationed at Seattls, Wash., which was then little more than a trading post, where the Tndians of the north and the roughen element of the south came in communicas tion, the one to dispose of thelr furd and the others to give in return whisky and valuless trinkets. This kind of life, it seoms, appealed ta Travers, and instead of re-enlisting he espoused the cause of Pluto instead of that of Mars, and soon he was nip and tuclke with the Indians of Canada and Alaska, driving bargains for skins. Thers was profit in the business at that time, as the latter day trusts had not come Into the fleld, and Travers' rivals had little more, if as much, capital as htmself. The thick-coated minks, badgers and other animals of the northwest dutifully sacrificed their furs and skins and Travers grew prosperous. Unlike most of the post traders, he hoarded up his money, dickered with the Indlans, and, like Alexander Sel kirk, he bought a little island and was soon monarch of all he surveyed. His money, fine clothes and other luxe uries soon excited the jealousy of the In- dians, who were greer with envy when they saw they could not go to church on Sunday in the same style as thelr white nelghbor. Moreover, their white faced friend could always go to his larder and produce a storehouse of “spirits,” while they almost 801d their souls for a drink of the “firoe water." The formal cause of dissent, however, was an American flag which this Yankee holsted on & pole in front of his log house. A council of war was held by the Indlans and they resolved to tear it down. Mr. John Travers had not lived in the morth- west in vain, consequently he had a full chest of ammunition and & dozen or so muskets. He heard the rumors of an ate tack, and thought that while he lived on his island the American flag:should float there. He barricaded the place, primed his guns and greeted his savage foes with a shot. They retreated, vowing vengeance. Travers managed to get word to Seattls and a gunboat was dispatched to keep the flag afloat. Travers, meanwhile kept his courage to the sticking point and the flag still waved. It was with joyful heart that Travers, a day or 8o afterward, saw the little gunboat steam into the harbor and trajn its guns on the thickets, where slunk the Indians.—Baltimore Sun. A New Definition. Teacher—Children, an 1sland s & body of land entirely surrounded by water. Now, ‘Willle, what 18 ap Island? ‘Willle—A person in a bath tub! pring Millinery The best ideas collected from the most prominent sources together with the excellent designs orig- inated by our own jforce. 7o the advisability of carefully inspecting our stock we respectfully invite your attention. F. M Schadell & Co. Douglas Street We Extend Qur Kind Invitation to the women of Omaha and vicinity to visit our store the week before Easter, and witness the grandest \ll\])]flv of ladies 1909 pring \mts, Long (uuts, Silk Braided Coats, Luungn»v Princess and Jumpc Dre beautiful new silk net, linen, messulme. taffeta and lawn Shirt Waists, Dress Skirts of the latest styles in the leading shades. Every one of these garments are a direct model for this spring. We secured the above stock through our New York representative at les than 60c on the dollar. We will offer these suits, etc., on sale all next week at a price that will astonish the most conservative buyer. Not one of these suits are made to sell for Iess than %J;)OO very s17 95 s;n\; $7.50 Extra WM He.vy Tlfleu Petu« coats, all shades, at " oo Heatherbloom Finish Petticoats, to $4.00, at J. F. BILZ’ SONS, We Give Green Trading Stamps Heavy China Silk \\nhll values up A good selection of regular $25.00 on sale, 204-6 N. 16th Street Among ovel lines is strictly correct. Represents the talented efforts of their own large workshop, and a most generous selection from the markets of New York and Paris. the various trimmed and tailored hats will be found the beautiful Lamp Shade design, new Directoire models, French Dome Crowns, Moorish and Russian Turbans, Oxford Tilted Sailor Hats, large Picture Hats and creations in Flower Hats. Individuality 1s the Keynote for Style Whether a hat be large or small, high or low, depends upon the individual taste and requirements of the purchaser, and so long as it conforms to certain Our experiénced saleswomen “fit”” you with a hat that not only will be correct in style, but will become you as well. 317 SOUTH SIXTEENTH STREET.